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RiRi-invendTHE MEGASTAR ON HER
BRAND NEW IMAGE AND STAYING IN
TUNE WITH HER ROOTS
Capio o Ko San THE SMART NEW FACE OF
BANGKOK’S BACKPACKERS’
MAGNET
M A G A Z I N E F O R C E B U PA C I F I C • J U N E
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It’s full speed ahead in Cebu City,navigating you to new horizons of opportunity.
INNOVATION SETS A STEADY COURSEIn the Southern Philippines’ premier city, Alveo Land transforms the urbanlandscape with groundbreaking solutions for living and working well. Rising tothe crest of economic progress, Cebu opens countless possibilities for growth.
With a wealth of natural resources nurturing foremost local and multinationalcompanies—the city anchors itself as the trade and tourism gateway of Visayas.
Alveo Land maximizes the potential of your investments, revealing the most covetedresidential and business addresses in the region. Forming dynamic communitiesrooted in over 80 years of Ayala Land property development, Alveo Land charts newterritories magnifying a tradition of industry excellence in the Queen City of the South.
SEDONA PARC
Designer Parkside LivingSOLINEA
City Resort LivingBPI CEBU CORPORATE CENTER
Innovative Workscapes
VISIT OUR SHOWROOMS AT THE AYALA CENTER CEBU, 3/F THE TERRACES AND 3/F NEW WING.CALL CEBU (6322) 417 7777 OR MANILA (632) 848 5100 OR VISIT WWW.ALVEOLAND.COM.PH
CO-DEVELOPED WITH CEBU HOLDINGS, INC.
Sedona Parc HLURB TLS No. 0006 | Solinea HLURB LTS Tower One: 26253, Tower Two: 0020, Tower Three: 0037 BPI Cebu Corporate Center HLURB TLS No. 0040 | Rufino Hermann S. Gutierrez PRC – REBL NO. 0004771
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Fro te hef
1
www.cebusmile.com
After months of careful planning and preparation, I’m
very proud and pleased to announce Cebu Pacific’s
updated branding to guide the airline to the next stage
of its evolution.
We’ve grown by leaps and bounds over the past
19 years, from our beginnings as “the little airline that
could” — flying four aircraft to 24 airports across the
country — to our current status as the Philippines’
largest carrier, with over 2,200 flights each week to
62 domestic and international destinations.
Throughout our journey thus far, we’ve stayed true
to our multi-pronged mission: to fly as many Filipinos
to as many destinations as possible, to take every
Juan as far as we can and to open up as many cornersof the Philippines as possible to those wishing to
experience our vibrant and diverse local cultures.
Our updated branding is designed to reflect both the
growth of the airline and its game plan for the future.
As we continue to showcase the Philippines on the
global stage, our new logo is inspired by the shades
of the archipelago — the lush green countryside, the
crystalline blue-green seas, the bright blue sky and
the brilliant yellow sun. Our eagle, whose image is
A NEWEAGLE HAS
LANDED
Lance GokongweiCHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
SMILE is published on behalf of Cebu Pacific Air by Ink Publishing Pte Ltd • 51 Changi BusinessPark Central 2, The Signature #04-11A/12, Singapore 486066 • tel: +65 6324 2386 • fax: +65 64915261 • www.ink-global.com • www.cebusmile.com
MCI (P) 176/06/2014All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors andphotographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the viewsof the airline. All material is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. No
part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without the prior written permissionof the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication.
ADVERTISINGGroup Publisher Mohan Gopal Advertising Manager Bong Dy-LiaccoSenior Brand Manager Andrew LugtuBrand Managers Nastassja Lacsamana, Sheena Ong, Blessing DizonCommercial Director David BloomfieldTel: +65 6324 2386Email: [email protected]
INKManaging Director Hamish McDougallChief Finance Offi cer Jim CampbellChief Executives Michael Keating and Simon Leslie
emblazoned on all our aircraft, is sleeker, ready to
take you farther.
That’s just the beginning. Consider it our first step
to becoming Cebu Pacific 2.0: bigger, better and much
more innovative. And while you can expect our fleet
to grow with the addition of more brand new aircraft,
our network to expand with the unveiling of more
destinations and our services to be even more in tune
with your travel needs, you can also expect the same
warm and fun-filled CEB experience.
Happy flying!
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Edio’s oe
It never feels like work when we head south to Davao City.
That’s mostly thanks to the laid-back vibe surrounding our
usual local hosts: young entrepreneurs who take pride in their
city and embrace the well-rounded lifestyle it affords them. Great food?
Check. Buzzy nightlife? Check. World-class hotels and resorts? Check.
Commercial centers and international ports? Check. Nearby beaches?
Big check. Our latest visit (page 52) gave us even more reasons to love
being in the land of durians, mangosteens and Mt Apo. If you’ve never been,
plan to visit in August so you can attend the annual Kadayawan Festival.
It’s the biggest party of the year and celebrates, among other things,
nature’s bounty and the beauty of Davao’s natural surrounds.
Mother Nature also comes into focus in another of this month’s
features. “The wild ones” (page 72) offers a sampling of some of the
rarest blooms found in Philippine forests. A number of these plants are
in danger of extinction unless something is done to curb overcollection
and the destruction of the forests they call home. If your inner naturalist
is urging you to pitch in, start by looking up the Philippine Native Plants
Conservation Society Inc (PNPCSI) on Facebook or reading up on the
NGO’s work at rainforest.ph.
Also in this issue: a return to Bangkok’s Khao San Road (page 62).
Once little more than a backpacking pit stop and a gateway to the rest of
Southeast Asia for footloose Western travelers, Khao San has evolved
to the point that it’s now an attraction in itself. Finally, still on the retrotheme, we chronicle a weekend cruise aboard an old-style paddle steamer
in Halong Bay (page 81). Not a bad idea for a mid-year mini-break.
Safe travels!
We can promise
you a lot of benefits
— follow us on
Smile Magazine for
Cebu Pacific and
smilemag to get first
dibs on promos and
updates on contests.
ARE WE
FRIENDSYET?
HAPPYFATHER’SDAY!
JUNEPRIDE
This month belongs to dads,
just as May was all aboutmoms. To all the fathers
out there, here’s to endless
fulfillment for you and the
people who look up to you.
RiRi-invend THEMEGASTARONHER
BRANDNEWIMAGE ANDSTAYINGINTUNEWITHHER ROOTS
Capio o KoSan T HESM ART NEWF ACEOFBANGKOK’S BACKPACKERS’MAGNET
M A G A Z I N E F O R C E B U P A C I F I C • J U N E THIS MONTH’SCOVERPhotographer Jorem Catilo
Art Director Marlon Espino
Shoot Director Jenny Peñas
Calligraphy Kitkat Maingat
Hair and Make-up Artist
Ren Bautista
Stylist Jof Sering
Model Michelle Yazvac
For fashion styling credits,
go to cebusmile.com
Kat with dad Jose
Ross withdaughter Emma
Jenny with dadErnesto
Me and my dadNicanor
Marlon withdaughter
Monika
Production Manager Helen Uy Punzalan Associate Design Director Terence GohDesign Director - APAC Neil SmithChief Sub-Editor Jonathan EvansEditorial Director Alexandra KarplusGroup Editorial DirectorAndrew Humphreys
EDITORIAL Editor Tara F.T. Sering Art Director Marlon EspinoDeputy Editor Kat Z. MateoSub-Editor Ross WallacePhoto Editor Jenny PeñasContributing Editors Maya O Calica,Nikka Sarthou-Lainez ( Trip Journal),Charmaine Baylon
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Our rew this isse
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Jorem Catilo
Photographer
For this issue joined us on a road
trip around the Davao region tocapture the area’s chilled-out vibe
At the moment
is on anotherblissful, out-of-town assignmentHis dad may have seen him as a
future Ray Manzarek “The best
gift I ever received from my dadwas a Casio VL-Tone keyboard.Too bad I lost it!”
Some of the people behind
this month's features tell us
about the best gifts they ever
received from their dads
Jonathan Evans
Writer
For this issue visitedDavao City for the first time
after months of reading
about it and meeting upwith friends who wouldn’t
stop talking about it
Up next? “This month I’mventuring north to Malaysia
to explore the revitalizedcity of Ipoh and the nearby
Cameron Highlands.”Best gift ever from dad
“This miraculous pair of
headphones that blockout virtually every irritantencountered on a flight,
including engine noise andscreaming infants.”
Lester V Ledesma
Writer and photographer
For this issue checked outhow Bangkok’s well-knownhive for backpackers has
changed over the years“At the moment I’m…
getting paid to explore my
favorite country.” Anything you want to
pass on to your kid?“When my daughter Leanne
is ready to go off andexplore the world, I’m goingto hand her pictures of her
old man posing in whichevercountry she’s visiting. I wanther to take her own souvenir
pictures in the exactsame spots!”
Ronald
Achacoso
Painter, art critic andSunday botanist
For this issue shared
a preview of his vastwealth of knowledge on
Philippine flora
Up next?
“There’sthe constant juggling
act of painting,writing, gardening and
immersing myself inthe wilderness. Each ofthese passions feeds all
the others.”Favorite travel advice
from dad “Travel light
and don’t forget to bringyour Swiss Army knife.”
Ivan Sarenas
Photographer
For this issue shared rarephotographs taken deep in
the interior of remote forests
Current project “I justformed the Philippine
Wilderness Land Trust with
other naturalists to purchaseand protect critical habitats in
the country.”
Best gift from dad “An air
rifle for hunting, somethingthat I’d like to deny. But it was
normal to have one when I
was growing up and it mademe go and be comfortable
in the great outdoors. These
days, the only shooting I do iswith a camera.”
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Sootig te oer soy
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Joremand Jennysqueezein a few
more shotsbeforedinner
PhotographerJorem Catilo makes
the most of themorning light
Spec ial t r eat : Nic k y of Hoy , P anga! joins t he shoot as t eam c hef
Team Smile makes i t
to the beach jus t in
time for golden hour
A bu t terfl y checks ou t
Jorem’s sho ts
Early morning on Dahic an Beac h
A saf et y br iefing f r om t he pilot bef or e t ak eoff
We’re always at the mercy of the
weather when we shoot the coverand the cover feature, especially in atropical country like the Philippines
where there’s always a possibility ofrain. So when we got two gloriouslysunny days in the coastal town of
Mati, we went a little bit snap-crazy.It’s amazing what you can do in oneweekend by the beach — a lot of
work that feels like play. — Tara
To shoot this month’s coverand cover feature, the Smile team took over TropicalKanakbai, two privaterental houses on Mati’sDahican Beach (see page61 for details). Both houses were built in the modern Asian tropical style, with
PARTYPLACEThis month's
MVP is a house
spacious bedrooms, large windows and second-floorbalconies. The big, open-plan kitchen and dining area were the main treat for us— meals were fresh from thegrill or the casserole dish,and always a group effort.Nice work, house.
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Thismonthin Smile
Get dadstylishly
decked outwith thesegreat gifts
Thanks, dadCheck out our suggestions
for what to give dad on
Father’s Day
Seoul foodFollow a local’s day-to-nightdining itinerary to stay fueled
up in the South Korean capital
Leader of the packLearn how Bangkok’s Khao San
Road has evolved from backpacker
ghetto to gentrified ’hood
p23
p31p62
p38
RIHANNA
TALKS ABOUT
HER NEW
MODELING
GIG AND
WHAT SHE
MISSES MOST
ABOUT
BARBADOS
og o
hank a
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Wait,there’smore...
The Rafflesiaschadenbergiana
Heading for any of the
28 international or 34Philippine destinationson the Cebu Pacific
network? Get somerecommendations fromthe locals.
Read the latest newsfrom the airline and getupdates on destinations
and routes. Plus: findout about the latest seatpromotions and score
great deals.
Check out the onboardmenu for the latest food-and-beverage offerings.
TRIP JOURNAL, p
AIRLINE NEWS, p
HUNGRY?, p
The wild onesLearn more about 10 of the Philippines’
most precious botanical gems
p72
Southern comfortsSome wonderful reasons to visit the
region — from city to sea
Delightful dwellingsCrash at one of these hip hostels
next time you’re in Makati City
Cruise mode in Halong BayEditor Tara FT Sering’s account of a weekend
sailing onboard a vintage-inspired boat
p81
p52
p19
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te bzzTHE LATEST NEWS, SOME COOL REVIEWS AND A FEW USEFUL TIPS FOR NAVIGATING THE NETWORK
Father's Daygift ideas, p. 31
This month's other excitingevents on the next page >
IT’S GAME TIMEAthletes from 11 countries across the region are set to convergeon Singapore from June 5 to 16 for the 28th Southeast Asian
Games. With “Celebrate the Extraordinary” as its theme, thisyear’s games will see over 4,700 athletes going head to head in
sports ranging from archery to wushu. Competitions will be heldat venues across the island. For detailed information on events,
schedules and ticketing, visit seagames2015.com, and follow@seagames2015 on Twitter and Facebook.
P H O T O B
Y G E T T Y I M A G E S
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WOOHOOfascinatingfestivals
T E X T B Y A P P L E T A N ; P H O T O B
Y G E T T Y I M A G
E S O S A K A , D A N I E L B O U D S Y D N E Y
OsakaOTAUE RICE PLANTING
FESTIVALJUNE
What began as a simple
ritual has become a grandcelebration held in anticipationof a bountiful harvest. At
Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine, ataue (rice-planting) ceremonyis followed by dance
performances by womenin braided, flower-adornedhats and a parade of samurai
warriors. jnto.go.jp
June’scharmsBe a part of age-oldtraditions and get inon all the action andexcitement of thismonth’s top eventsacross the region
BaliUBUD FOOD
FESTIVALJUNE
Indonesian cuisine, culture
and celebrity chefs — what’snot to love about thisevent? With more than 40
big names from Bali andelsewhere lined up for itsinaugural edition, the festival
promises to be a food-filled weekend of cookingdemos, workshops and tours.
ubudfoodfestival.com
Sydney VIVID SYDNEYUNTIL JUNE
Check out the massive
light installations andmusical performancesduring this annual
extravaganza. Thecity’s skyline and best-known landmarks,
including the SydneyOpera House, aredazzlingly illuminated
nightly from 6pm untilmidnight. Downloadthe map at
vividsydney.com.
Hong KongDRAGON BOAT
FESTIVALJUNE
Every year, this much-
awaited event (knownin Cantonese as TuenNg) attracts attendees
from across the globe forseveral days of merry-making, beer-drinking
and boat races at Stanley,Aberdeen Fishing Villageand other locations.
discoverhongkong.com
WHEELS OFCHANGE
Celebrate PhilippineIndependence Day by
joining the Freedom Ride— a cycling event held everyJune 12 in Iloilo City. The
Freedom Ride, now in itsthird year, is free of charge
and open to all cyclists who want to do it for love
of country and nationalpride. Participants typicallyattach small flags to their
helmets and bikes, and wearpatriotic garb or shirts in
the colors of the flag. Whybiking? The organizers look
at it as another form ofindependence, if you will,from vehicle pollution and
traffi c. Visit facebook.com/ IloIloCityGov for updates.
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yahoomust-see events
music to your earsSing and dance to your favorite tunes inconcerts and musicals happening this month
T E X T B Y C H A R M A I N E B A Y L O N ; P H O T O S C O U
R T E S Y O F U N I V E R S A L M U S I C S I N G A P O R E A L E S S O ;
A M Y B O Y L E D I S N E Y ’ S B E A U T Y A N D T H E B E A
S T ; E L L E N V O N U N W E R T H D A V I D G U E T T A
INSIDIOUS: CHAPTER JUNE
Get spooked by the prequel
and third installment of thishorror-film franchise.
JURASSIC WORLDJUNE
A genetically modified dinosaur
meant to boost ticket saleswreaks havoc in Jurassic World.
INSIDE OUTJUNE
Go inside a young girl’s mindand meet her emotions in this
hilarious animated feature.
NOWSHOWINGRelax, see a movie
1 SingaporeTHE ULTIMATE
TRIBUTE TO
MICHAEL JACKSONJUNE
This grand-scaleproduction covers the King
of Pop’s major hits andperformances, from hisearly days as a member of
the Jackson 5 in the ’60sto the period right beforehis untimely death in 2009.
Key highlights include songsfrom his iconic 1982 album
Thriller . sistic.com.sg
2 Seoul ULTRA KOREA
JUNE
This year’s event is expected
to attract more than 100,000people. The line-up includesAlesso (above), David Guetta,
Skrillex and Snoop Dogg.
umfkorea.com
4 MacauDISNEY’S BEAUTY
AND THE BEAST
JUNE JULY
Head to the Venetian Macaoand catch beloved charactersBelle, Beast, Cogsworth and
Lumiere in a “tale as old astime.”cotaiticketing.com
3 Across thenetwork
IDINA MENZEL:WORLD TOUR JUNE
Watch the Tony award winnerand “Let It Go” singer performin Osaka, Nagoya, Tokyo andManila. idinamenzel.com
5 Hong KongDAVID GUETTA:
LISTEN TOUR HONGKONG JUNE
The French DJ hits town to
celebrate the release of hissixth studio album, Listen.
hkticketing.com/eng
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4 5
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aahhhplaces to chill
The view from
Z Hostel's rooftop
Check in to one of these hip hostels the next
time you’re in Makati City
Delightful dwellings
LOKAL HOSTEL
Walking into Lokal Hostel islike attending a private viewing
of homegrown art. The duo
behind this artsy lodging, DonBautista and Andrew Licaros,is serious about exposing their
guests to Philippine culture,with art as the entry point. Thewalls at the hotel feature Pinoy-
themed murals by Ang Gerilya.
You can choose to stay in an air-conditioned private or dorm-
type room, or in a fan-cooledroom. Rates start at PHP500.
3/F, 5023 P Burgos St, BrgyPoblacion; lokalhostel.com
Z HOSTEL
If you think “luxury hostel”
— the new class of multi-beddorm — is an oxymoron, youneed to stay at Z Hostel. The
rooms here boast amenities youwon’t typically find at a hostel,including en-suite bathrooms
and key-card access.
Include Z Hostel’s SundaySlowdown in your itinerary. It’s
a weekly sunset-cocktail session
where guests can mix with thelocals and maybe even getsome inside information on
the city. Rates start at PHP545.5660 Don Pedro St; zhostel.com
THE JEEPNEY
HOUSE
One outstanding feature ofThe Jeepney House is its fullyequipped kitchenette. If you
feel you need assistance orsomeone to cook for you, justapproach a staff member to
make arrangements. Aside fromaffordable accommodations,
The Jeepney House also offers
unique Metro Manila tours. Ratesstart at PHP475. 5953 Enriquez St
(Cnr Fermina St), Brgy Poblacion;thejeepneyhouse.com
T E X T B Y M A E Y O U N G
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weeeedigs we love
A prime location, afabulous bed and allthe right amenities
make Microtel Inn& Suites a choiceplace to stay when
visiting Baguio City
a Suitespot
M A I N T E X T B Y M A Y A C A L I C A C O L L I N S
With its cool climate,strawberry fields and pinetree-scented air, Baguio is
deserving of its billing as thePhilippines’ summer capital.Sure, it’s a bustling metropolis
but it’s also home to the richculture of the Ifugao and ahost of quaint 19th-century
heritage-homes-turned-delightful-restaurants,charming bookstores and
quirky museums. When intown, check into the MicrotelInn & Suites by Wyndham
and you’ll be at the center ofall of Baguio’s wonders.
NO CAR? NOPROBLEM!Escaping to Baguio from
Manila is as simple asboarding a bus. Convenientlylocated right next to the
Victory Liner bus terminal,Microtel Inn & Suites is linkedto it by a short walkway.
What’s more, you’ll lovehow close the hotel is toBaguio City’s major points
of interest. Browse for raretitles at Mt Cloud Bookshop,wander around the lush
campus of UP Baguio andtake in awesome views of
old copper mines at Mine’sView Park. Go boating orcycling in Burnham Park and
experience the hustle andbustle of Session Road.
ASK AND YOU SHALLRECEIVEGiven that its staff is trained
to international WyndhamHotel Group standards,guests can expect nothing
less than the very best,most professional level of
service. Need a restaurantrecommendation or keento embark on a day tourto La Trinidad to pick fresh
strawberries? The team atMicrotel Inn & Suites Baguiowill gladly help meet your
needs.
THE COMFORTS OFHOME… AND MOREIs it business, pleasure or both
that you’re in town for? MicrotelInn & Suites Baguio has what ittakes to ensure a comfortable
stay. For corporate get-togethers, the function roomshere are just the thing. You can
also wine and dine colleaguesor spend time with familyand friends — while enjoying
margaritas, mojitos andsumptuous Spanish cuisine — atTe Quiero Tapas Bar. Thanks to
free Wi-Fi and unlimited coffee
in the lobby, it’s a snap to dolast-minute tweaks on that all-
important presentation on yourlaptop. When night falls, retreatto your spacious room (rooms
range in size from 25 to 30m2 )where a chiropractor-approved,queen-size bed awaits.
@FOR ROOM AVAILABILITY ANDRATES, HEAD TO WWW.MICROTELBAGUIO.COM
Stay cozyin yourroom atMicrotelBaguio
Get closer to nature(and the clouds!) atMt Pulag — the thirdhighest peak in thePhilippines. FromBaguio City, chartera jeepney for thethree-hour trip to theMt Pulag NationalPark Protected AreaOffi ce in Ambangeg.Once there, you’llneed to register andattend an orientationsession. After that,take a habal-habal orcharter a jeepney tothe Ranger Station, where you can securea guide and start your
trek. The AmbangegTrail is recommendedfor beginners. If you’ll be coming infrom Manila, sign upat Trail Adventours(trailadventours.com). You can takepart in scheduledhikes on June 6 to 7 orJuly 4 to 5.
UP THE ANTE
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omnomnomlet's eat!
Seoul foodFood writer Daniel Gray tips usoff on the South Korean capital’sbest dining spots, whether
you’re meal-hunting at dawnor midnight
7AM
For a quick breakfast, grab a riceroll and pair it with hot ramen at anyKimbap Cheonguk or Kimbap Nara.These chains have outlets at mostsubway stations. If you prefer toget your day off to a leisurely start,head to the famed Hadongkwan(10-4 Myeong-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu;
hadongkwan.com). This restaurant, which has been around for over 70 years, serves traditional gomtang — arich beef broth with rice, slivers ofbeef and green onions.
What to eat for lunch anddinner? See the next page >
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10.30AM: If a cup o’ joe iswhat you’re after, head toAnthracite Coffee Roasters
(357-6 Hapjeong-dong,Mapo-gu). Anthracite’s butteryespressos and hand-drip coffees
are among the best in Seoul.
NOON: While in Korea,don’t miss the chance to
enjoy samgyetang, a healthyand delicious chicken-and-ginseng soup. Goryeo
Samgyetang (55-3 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu) is a local
favorite. The broth is clear,the chicken meat is so tenderthat it falls apart as soon asyou touch it and the ginseng is
high grade. You might even betempted to make a return tripto try the fried chicken, which
ranks with the best in the city.
omnomnom
3PM
7PM: Feasting on Koreanbarbecue is a must. TongDwegi Jip (17-1 Donhui-
dong, Jongno-gu), locatedin an alley near Jongno 3-gaSubway Station, Exit 6, is
about as authentic as it gets.This tiny place has an old-time feel to it. The service
is curt and the pork menu issimple. Pork jowl (cheeks)and pork neck are available
but the specialty here ispork belly — good, thickcuts seared on gas griddles.
A tip: Put jackets and pursesin the plastic bags provided
or you’ll smell like barbecueall night.
9PM: Cap off your dayby going for chimaek , ashort-hand expression
derived from the words“chicken” and “maekju” —the latter meaning “beer”
in Korean. My go-to spotis Reggae Chicken (317-9 Sangsu-dong, Mapo-
gu). Its fried chicken iscrispy and flavorful, andthe dipping sauces make
it even yummier. Thereare plenty of beers tochoose from, too.
MIDNIGHT: If you’vewatched a Korean TVdrama, you’re probably
familiar with Korea’s tentrestaurants. To see onefor yourself, head to
iDANIEL GRAY BLOGS AT SEOULEATS.COM AND ORGANIZES LUXURY FOOD TOURS IN
SEOUL. HE SHOWED CELEBRITY CHEF AND
TV PERSONALITY ANTHONY BOURDAIN
AROUND WHEN HE VISITED SEOUL.
Jongno 3-ga. It’s home torows of tent restaurants thatserve local favorites such as
pan-fried chicken gizzards,chicken feet, fried squid,spicy ramen, eel and more.
There’s plenty of soju andbeer and you’re welcome tolinger until the sun comes
up. You’re almost sure tohave plenty of company.
If it’s snack time, head to Myeongdongfor some street food. Enjoy giant, spiral-cut, fried potatoes on a stick; doughypancakes known as hotteok (right) witha filling made of brown sugar, honey andcinnamon; and dried or grilled octopus.Wash it all down with a cup of freshlysqueezed pomegranate juice.
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We’ve rounded up five fancy — and effective— products from these Filipino brands touse and stash in your kikay kit
homegrown beauty
YEY!it's shoppingtime
MAGIC BRUSH
Charm Essentials, a go-to brand of beauty
bloggers, has been creating affordable,high-quality makeup brushes since 2007. TheRetractable Flat Top Brush works perfectly
with powder or creams and is designed toallow users to apply product evenly (with nostreaks!). PHP600; zalora.com.ph
BOLD BRO WS
I t seems t he t hic k- bu t-
groomed- bro w trend is
here to s ta y. S tar t s haping
your bro ws using t he quad
Fann y Serrano Cosme tics
E ye bro w Po wder Ki t,
w hic h has la tel y become a
ho t topic o f beau t y-rela ted
con versa tions. PHP350 ;
Landmark De partment
Store s
CLEAN UP NICELY
At the end of the day, be sureto take off all your makeup
to allow your skin to breathe.
Human Nature 100% NaturalCleansing Oil has sunfloweroil to remove even the most
stubborn makeup effectivelywithout drying your skin or
clogging your pores. PHP295;
humanheartnature.com
MOCHA KISSES
For ladies with a goldencomplexion, a coat (or two) of
creamy, pinkish-nude hue onthe lips is enough to achieve
a natural pop of color. Try
Snoe Beauty Rouge DeluxeLipstick in Mocha Madness. Itcontains argan and sunflower
oil to hydrate dry lips. PHP399; snoebeauty.shopinas.com and
SM Beauty Stores
ROSY FLUSH
Because it effortlessly flatters the
Filipina’s skin tone, Her/Bench PrettyWhen Pinched Blush Gel has stayedpopular for nearly a decade. Blend a
tiny pinch of it on the apples of the
cheeks for a tinge of healthy pink.PHP128; Bench stores
This willmoisturizeyour skin,
too
T E X T B Y A P P L E T A N ; P H O T O B
Y G E T T Y I M A G
E S M I C H E L L E P H A N
LEARN FROM AN EXPERTIf you haven’t got a clue
about makeup but areexcited to learn, check outMichelle Phan’s YouTube
channel and join her 7.6million subscribers. Seeher Beauty Basics playlist
for tutorials on applyingfoundation and concealer,creating the perfect red lips
and more. youtube.com/ michellephan
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T E X T B Y K A T M A T E O
4 HAPPY FEETInject some color into dad’s
wardrobe with this groovy setof socks. Happy Socks FilledOptic Gift Pack, PHP2,190
at dreamlablifestyle.com ;happysocks.com
3 FLY GUYA pair of aviator sunglasses
with gradient lenses is sure toup dad’s cool factor. Ray-Ban
Aviator Large Frame Gradient
Sunglasses, S$330 at zalora.sg;ray-ban.com
2 KEYS TO HISHEART
Give dad this metal andleather key fob and he won’tlose his keys again. Master-
Piece Equipment Key Fob,US$50; eastdane.com
Discover art with dad throughthe Artifact iPhone app. ThisPhilippine art guide lets youbrowse through current and
upcoming art shows, which youcan add to your calendar and shareon social media. And with its mapintegration feature, you can easilyplan trips to galleries across Metro
Manila (for now). If an artworkcatches your fancy, you can even
inquire about its availability with atap of a button. Download Artifact
for free from the App Store.
ART TO HEART
BooM!manly gifts
5 AHEAD OF THE PACKA spacious and robust duffel bag will hold all
dad’s stuff, whether it’s for an overnight staycationor a weekend getaway. Nixon Holdem Duffel Bag,
US$150 at eastdane.com; nixon.com
Hip gift ideas for thatspecial man in your life
Thanks, Dad
1 MUSIC TO HIS EARSWhether he’s on the plane
or on the train, these noise-canceling headphones willlet dad listen to his music in
peace. Sony MDR-ZX770BNDigital Noise CancellingBluetooth® Headphones,
S$249 at Sony Stores, SonyCenters and authorizedretailers; sony.com.sg
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I T E M S S E L E C T E D B Y D O N N A C U N A P I T A
just add water
oohlalarainy dayessentials
RAIN ORSHINE?
Chase the rainy-day bluesaway with stylish gear andaccessories
These smartphoneweather apps will
help you dressappropriately
WEATHERLAHshows the latest
weather forecastin Singapore.
One feature we love is
Crowdcast, which shows what people are sayingabout the weather in specific
locations across the island. Available at the App Store
MYOBSER VATORY
offerslocation-
specific rainfall forecasts,
temperatures and wind-direction information inHong Kong. Available at
the App Store and GooglePlay
DOST PROJECTNOAH provideshelpful information
on weather inthe Philippines — from theprobability of rain to typhoon
forecasts. It also shows imagesfrom satellites and Dopplerradars. Available at the AppStore and Google Play
RUBBER SOLEProtect your feet with
a pair of Rockfishrainboots from the Johnand Frankie store.
lazada.com.ph
BETTER THAN LEATHER
Brave the storm in these washable,waterproof, odor-resistant shoes byNative. nativeshoes.com
CITY SLICKERThis raincoat by Trench’dwill keep your outfit from
getting drenched. zalora.com.ph
PETAL POWER
Stay warm indoorsand out with this cozyfloral LZD sweater.
lazada.com.ph
STURDY BROLLY
This Tokio dome-shapedtransparent umbrella will keepyou dry without blocking your
view. lazada.com.ph
TIME IS ON YOUR SIDE
Rain isn’t an excuse for tardiness.Stay on schedule with a water-resistant watch like this eye-
catching model from Timex.lazada.com.ph
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ooohinterestingreads
These recommendations from bookhistorian and librarian Dr Vernon R Totanes
are sure to add to your knowledgeof the nation
THE PHILIPPINESFOR BEGINNERS
2
1
iDR VERNON R TOTANES, LICENSED LIBRARIAN AND BOOK HISTORIAN, IS THE DIRECTOROF THE RIZAL LIBRARY, ATENEO DE MANILA UNIVERSITY. HE BLOGS AT FILIPINOLIBRARIAN.BLOGSPOT.COM
2Get to know a
national hero
RIZAL WITHOUTTHE OVERCOAT
BY AMBETH R
OCAMPO
Jose Rizal, consideredthe national hero of the
Philippines, was moreman than Superman. This
book uses humor andinteresting trivia to (re)introduce Rizal as a meremortal who loved women,
was stingy with moneyand liked to eat tuyo forbreakfast.
4 Appreciate the
nation’s cuisine
MEMORIES OFPHILIPPINE
KITCHENS
BY AMY BESA AND
ROMY DOROTAN
Learn how to cook
lumpiang Shanghai,adobo and kinilaw and
get better acquaintedwith the origins ofPhilippine cuisine withthis cookbook by the
duo behind Purple Yam.It features stunningphotographs, too.
3 Be one with
the locals
PACIFIC RIMS:BEERMEN BALLIN’
IN FLIPFLOPS ANDTHE PHILIPPINES’UNLIKELY LOVE
AFFAIR WITHBASKETBALL
BY RAFE
BARTHOLOMEWEver wondered why Filipinos— most of whom aren’t thattall — love basketball? Find
the answer in this book, whichthe author has described as hislove letter to the Philippines.
1 Learn Tagalog —
the fun way
ALAMAT NG AMPALAYA
BY AUGIE RIVERA
The song “Bahay Kubo”enumerates the manyvegetables grown in
neighborhood gardenswith one exception —
ampalaya (bitter gourd).The omission inspiredthis children’s book. TheTagalog and English texts
are sure to prove useful forthose aiming to study oneor both languages.
3
4
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THESE AWESOME PEOPLE REALLY KNOW THEIR STUFF HEAR IT STRAIGHT FROM THEM
P H O T O B
Y G E T T Y I M A G E S
Turn the page for morefrom Rihanna >
FIT FOR
STARDOMRihanna loves her mac and cheesebut she has started getting backinto “working out and eating
cleaner”. “I hate vegetables but I’mlearning how to incorporate themone by one into my diet and drown
them with other things. I’m gettingback to my training as well. Nowthat it’s album-and-video time, it’s
time to get fit, get tight,” says thepop megastar.
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chatfest withHollywood stars
HOTTOPIC
B Y R U B E N V .
N E P A L E S ; P H O T O S B Y G E
T T Y I M A G E S
Best faceforwardWith a new album inthe works and a high-profile endorsement
deal with Dior,Rihanna’s star isshining brighterthan diamonds.By Ruben V Nepales
Rihanna arrived fashionablylate for our interview at the
Mandarin Oriental Hotelin New York but when shestrode into the room at long
last — sporting an all-whiteensemble, a trail of sparklinglittle diamonds on her right
ear — she looked stunningand exuded 24-carat charm.Needless to say, all was
immediately forgiven. Barbados’biggest musical export easilytrumped the magnificent 36th-
floor view of Central Park andManhattan’s skyline.
The singer’s personal-life
tidbits and style choices oftenland her in the spotlight (ifyou’ve not seen that sheer,
Swarovski-studded dressshe wore at last year’s VogueCFDA Awards, you’re missing
out) and sometimes eclipsethe fact that she’s among hergeneration’s most accomplished
artists. Rihanna’s 2007 albumGood Girl Gone Bad launchedher to full-fledged globalstardom and in the years since,
a whopping eight GrammyAwards have found a home in
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RIHANNA IS THE YOUNGEST SOLO ARTISTTO HAVE NUMBER SINGLES ON THE
BILLBOARD HOT .i
“Whatever outlet I can find
that I love and can be creative
in, I hone in on it — whether it’s
designing, music or animation”
her trophy case. Beyond
that, two years ago shewas named to Time magazine’s list of 100
Most Influential People.Fellow artists recognizeRihanna’s talent and star
power — her recent single“FourFiveSeconds”, acollaboration with Paul
McCartney and KanyeWest, shot to number 1in the US and elsewhere.
Anticipation is high for hereighth studio album, whichis due out later this year.
Named in March as thenew face of French fashionhouse Dior — joining the
likes of Jennifer Lawrence,Marion Cotillard and
Charlize Theron — Rihannahad good reason to be inhigh spirits when she satdown with us for a chat.
How does it feel tobe the first black
spokesperson for Dior?Dior is class, timelessness,beauty and elegance. So, to
be acknowledged by them,I feel very special. Not just
as a woman of color. I think
that’s brilliant, as well.
What was it like to shootat the Palace of Versaillesfor the Dior campaign?It was incredible — so much
history there. Just to be therelying on the couch, lookingat the beautiful paintings on
the ceiling. It was so sur real.I had to tell everybody in theroom, “We’re lying down in
the house right now — do
you know that?” (Laughs) Itwas awesome.
Did you ever imaginethat you would attain this
much success around the world?I believed it so much that
it happened. It was so farfrom even being possible. Inhindsight, I realize that was a
really big dream for a little girl
from a really small island.
When I was younger, inBarbados, I watched videosand read magazines aboutsingers. I obsessed over and
listened to Mariah Carey,Celine Dion, WhitneyHouston and Destiny’s Child.
Those were the big voicesI listened to, among otherthings like reggae and hip-
hop. I wanted to sing and beheard all over the world.
How much of Barbados isstill in you?Everything — school,
home, culture — there’s thatfoundation built over 16 yearsbefore I moved to America.
I’ve always stayed close tomy family, friends and people
from home. It’s a part of me. Ialways go back home.
What do you miss aboutBarbados?Flying fish. That’s the one
thing I have to get from home.That and pepper sauce, Bajanseasoning, fish cakes, little
snacks like chips and chocolate.I’m always having my friendsbring tons of those when they
come over. To what do you credit your
success?When I moved to America, I
was very ambitious. I still am.Whatever outlet I can find that
I love and can be creative in,I hone in on it — whether it’sdesigning, music or animation.
As the years went on, myambition was also joinedby rebellion.
And who was it that
inspired all this ambition?I was very blessed to be borninto my family. My mother andgrandmother are both very
strong women. I was lucky tohave them in my life. I’m reallyinspired by strong women. I
think women are way strongerthan they know. We’ve comethis far. There’s so much farther
we can go. It’s all about giving,caring and loving each other.
What’s the biggestmisconception about you?There’s a very big
misconception about what I
do when I’m at home. I justwatch TV and lie on the couch.
I’m so boring. But outside,I’m spontaneous. I love to dothings — go out, see things,
travel. The world has so muchto offer that there’s neverenough time.
Rihanna performs at The InauguralDiamond Ball which she co-presented
with The Clara Lionel Foundation
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Can't get enough of Ms Wilson?Turn the page for more >
travel like a pro
WANDERLUST
She’s a VJ, model, designer
and entrepreneur. But whystop there when she cando more? Georgina Wilson
added another feather toher cap — and is richer forthe experience — when
she became the new host
of Asia’s Next Top Model ,Season 3.
“I never know what’s going
to happen during my day. Ilove it — it’s madness,” shesays of her busy schedule.
“To be honest, the first dayof shooting was one of thescariest things ever, especiallythe first elimination. But I
was working with an amazingteam, from the judging panelto production and most
importantly, the girls. As soonas I saw them, I knew it wasso much more than what was
being filmed.”To think she also runs her
own company, eyewear lineSunnies Studios, with threefellow partners (“We’re actuallyavailable on the flight you’re in
right now — just ask the lovelystewardess”) and just launchedher first book, Bestie, with
When it comes to globetrotting,Georgina Wilson is game for anythingTop traveler
Hong Kong
A shot forthe Sunnieslookbook
With friends at thePaoay Sand Dunes
Hokkaido,Japan
Keong Saik Road,Singapore
Stockholm
At the Museum ofContemporar y Art
in Sydney
Elephant lovein Thailand
Disneyland,California
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WANDERLUST
T E X T A N D I N T E R V I E W B
Y C H A R M A I N E B A Y L O
N
actress, singer and TV host,Solenn Heussaff.
Life is hectic but Georgina
still sets aside time to travel.“Traveling is everything;I live to travel. I love any
destination, be it new or old.From Ilocos to Iceland, I loveit all,” she says. “Traveling is
the only thing you can buythat will make you richer.My ultimate dream is to visit
every single city in the world.”And she can be quite flexible
about it. “Contrary to popularbelief, I don’t mind getting down
and dirty,” she says. “I love gettingreally cheap flights and greattravel deals. I love exploring
cosmopolitan cities — but youcan put me in the middle of thecountryside; I’d be happy, too.
As long as I’m traveling andexploring, I’m happy.”
“Traveling is
everything; I liveto travel... From
Ilocos to Iceland, I
love it all”
GEORGINA’S TIPS• Travel with great friends• Eat local and meet the locals• Avoid tour guides
• Research and plan, but leave room forspontaneous decisions
• Check the weather
• Bring a good camera• Get lost at least once
Ski fun inHokkaido Levitating in Osaka
Working it for Asia’s Next TopModel
Brunching in Australia
With Asia’s Next Top Model judges Alex Perry and Joey Mead-King
Playing dress-up inIlocos Norte
Amsterdam
Shopping on OrchardRoad in Singapore
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More about Manix onthe next page >
with Manix Abrera
in THEPARK...
His comic strips make peoplelaugh and think, or at the veryleast admit that they can relateto the situations he captures in
pen and ink. And Manix Abrerais happy to hear it.
The 33-year-old musician,
comic book author and artistis the man behind the popular“Kikomachine” in the PhilippineDaily Inquirer, which has beencompiled and turned intobestselling comic books, and
“News Hardcore” on the GMANews website. Those who flyCebu Pacific will be familiar
with his strip “Travel Hardcore”,which tackles the world oftravel, passenger behavior and
life in the skies. It appears onthe last page of every issue of
Smile. Manix also released 14,
a wordless graphic novel, lastyear and launched Kikomachine
#11: Mga Kirot ng Kapalaran!two months ago.
In “Kikomachine”, Manix
highlights local quirks andputs a comedic, Pinoy twiston everyday situations andconversations. In “NewsHardcore”, he takes a
humorous look at life asit’s experienced by mediaprofessionals — in the offi ce
and in the field.If you think Manix is funny,
earnest and truthful in his
comics, you’ll be glad to know
ComicsconnectionSure, “Kikomachine”artist and authorManix Abrera wantsto get you laughingbut he also wants tomake you think
he’s the same in real life.For proof, look no furtherthan these highlights from
our recent joke- and laugh-filled interview with him.
Given that your dad iscartoonist Jess Abrera,
comics and art are in your blood. Was it aneasy or obvious choice
for you to go into thesame line of work?I had wanted to be a
cartoonist ever since Iwas a child because Papawas my idol (laughs). Iknew I wanted to make
comics like him so it wasan easy choice for me.I still remember sitting
beside him while he drewand copying his style. Buthe’d always tell me that I
shouldn’t copy him; that Ishould create my own style.
Once you decided topursue comics, what werethe challenges you faced?
The fact that my father isJess Abrera is challenging.When I entered the College
of Fine Arts at the Universityof the Philippines, everyone— including my professors— knew me as “Jess’s son” so
the pressure was intense. Butwhen I joined the Philippine
Collegian [the university
paper], I found my voice. It
was also through the paperthat I was able to make
comics for a large audience.Then when I started doing“Kikomachine” for the
Inquirer, I had a hard timecoming up with daily comicstrips. I learned how to
create and work regardlessof whether I was in themood or not because I had
deadlines to meet.
Has your creative process
changed over the years?My creative process hasn’tchanged, except that now
I can make comics faster.Mas sanay na ako (I’m usedto it). Before I create mystrips, I go out, talk to other
people, observe and listen inon strangers’ conversations(laughs). Once I get an
idea, I add my own twist toit before I actually sit downand draw. I usually work
outdoors. It’s more inspiring.
What else inspires you in your work?I’m inspired by Pinoy cultureand beliefs. I also love
creating comics based on
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@
in THEpark...
TO SEE MORE OF MANIX’S WORK, VISIT HISWEBSITE,MANIXABRERA.COM
weird but real experiences.For example, back at UP,
there was a hunyango (ashape-shifting, supernaturalentity) who appears in the
College of Fine Arts. Onetime, our professor enteredthe classroom and just stared
at us. He didn’t say anythingfor hours. We learned thefollowing day that he had
actually called in sick theprevious day and wasn’t atschool. We then realized that
it was the shapeshifter! It
work? And how would you
describe your brand ofhumor?I don’t know how to describe
my humor (laughs). Some sayit’s irreverent, so maybe it’s
that. Aside from the humor,another essential elementof my comics is the content.It shouldn’t just be funny; it
should have a message. Myfather would always tell meto keep form and content in
mind, and that the two mustbe balanced.
So how do you maintain agood balance between the
visuals and the content?I still haven’t perfected it; I’m
still learning. I keep in mindthat form and content shouldcomplement each other. I get
feedback from my siblings
when I’m not sure aboutsomething. They’re very
critical and honest. They’ll letme know me if my comicsdon’t make sense.
“News Hardcore” depicts
funny, ironic but truthfulinteractions among media
people. To what extentare these scenarios real
and drawn from your ownexperiences?I’ve personally experienced
just a few. Most of them are
the real-life experiences of journalists; I just exaggerateand add twists. But there are
journalists who send me emailsuggesting topics or sharingtheir own experiences.
To what extent do you relate
to your own characters?Nice question. Of all the comicscharacters I’ve created, I can saythat I can relate to 95% of them
in some way (laughs).
You’ve become a verysuccessful artist, with anumber of bestsellers to
your name. Have you givenany thought to moving ina different direction with
your work?
It’s just chance and lucksometimes. I’ve made graphicnovels that are very different
from “Kikomachine”, “NewsHardcore” or “Travel Hardcore”.12 and 14 are collections of
short and weird stories incomics form but they’re “silent”— there are no words.
I N T E R V I E W B
Y C H A R M A I N E B A Y L O N ; P H O T O S B Y O R A N G E O M E N G A N
“Regardless of readers’
reactions, my intention is to
just make them think”
was super weird but it reallyhappened and ended up inone of my strips.
That’s spooky. What kindof reactions do you get to
your strips? And do thesereactions match yourexpectations?I get mainly positive
reactions. There are thosewho email me to say they
enjoy the strips and relateto them. But of course,there are also people whodon’t get the jokes and
don’t find the strips funnyat all. Regardless of readers’reactions, my intention is to
just make them think.
Besides a sense of humor, what are the otheressentials in your line of
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sleep anywherehow to...
OFF to DREAMLANDGet some sleep wherever you are
with these tips from frequent traveler Amanda Kendle
Red-eye or canceled flights,
missed buses or trains, or fullybooked hotels and hostelscan mean you end up without
a bed for the night. These
tips will help you get the best
possible night’s sleep when youfind yourself at an airport, trainstation or other unusual spot
without a blanket and pillow.
FIND A SPOT
Sleeping somewhereunusual during yourtravels is an adventure,
not an annoyance — orat least it works outbetter if you think this
way. Some airportshave chairs resemblingpoolside loungers
where you can stretchout reasonably well.Others have pay-
to-enter lounges ormassage kiosks whereyou can sneak in some
shuteye. Traveling alone?Make sure to curl up next
to people who are waitingfor the same plane or trainas you are. Eliminate the
creepy factor by offeringa smile or at least makingfriends with them first.
GET COMFORTABLE
Cover yourself with a towel
or sarong or even clothingfrom your luggage (alwayskeep a light sweater in your
carry-on, even if you’re headedsomewhere sunny), especiallyif you’re sleeping somewhere
heavily air-conditioned. Youcan also use your backpack asa pillow. Wear a sleep mask
to block out the glare offluorescent lights typical of
airports — studies show youget a better-quality snooze
when the lights are out.Remember to set an alarm.
STAY SAFE
Keep your belongings asclose to you as possible (and
your passport and moneyunder your shirt). If you can,padlock your stuff to the
furniture. In a public spacelike an airport, find a spotthat’s visible to other people,
such as the area near aservice counter or shop.
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faturesWE’VE GATHERED STORIES FROM ACROSS THE NETWORK TO INSPIRE YOUR NEXT TRIP
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More on chill-out spotsaround the Davao Gulf >
TAKING FLIGHT
This month we throw the spotlight on acouple of choice destinations in southeasternMindanao. The drive from Davao City in Davao
del Sur to Mati City in Davao Oriental takesabout three hours but between them, these twoplaces offer a complete city-to-sea experience.
Given Davao’s enduring reputation as a laid-back region that offers a great quality of life, itsgrowing popularity should come as no surprise.
P H O T O B
Y J E N N Y P E Ñ A S
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DELIGHTFUL DAVAO
A growing number of Filipinos are trading in big-city living for
the eternal summer vibe of Davao. Jonathan Evans makes a long-
overdue first visit to find out what the fuss is all about
Southerncomforts
DELIGHTFUL DAVAO
Three times bigger than
Metro Manila, six times
the size of Cebu, one of
the largest metropolitan
areas not just in Asia
but in the world, the Philippines’
fastest-growing city and, thanks to
a zero-tolerance approach to law
enforcement, the planet’s ninth safest
city as recently as 2014. Davao: to those
who’ve never visited Mindanao, the
region’s premier city is perhaps better
known for its statistics — and a certain
sterility — than the flavor of its streets.
It doesn’t help that its remote
location in the country’s deep south-
east makes it somewhat tricky to get to.
After landing in Manila, a newcomer
to the archipelago is more likely to hop
on a short flight bound for the idyllic
islands of Boracay and Bohol than
spend another two hours on a plane to
get from the capital to Davao City (that
said, stats show that Davao welcomed
two million tourists in 2014). To some
avowed city folk living in Metro Manila,
Davao’s even something of a punchline.
It’s backward and unsophisticated,
they say, a big city with a small-town
mindset and little buzz.
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DELIGHTFUL DAVAO
P H O T O S B Y J O R E M C
A T I L O A
N D C H U R C H J
O J I E A L C A N T A R A .
O N M O D E L : T O P B Y R I V E R I S L A N D ; S C A R F B Y
C O T T O N O N ;
A C C E S S O R I E S B Y J I N G G O Y S A L V A D O R .
Yet for years Davao has been
heralded as the country’s most
liveable city, earning nicknames like
“the Singapore of the Philippines”.
And for all the brochure-ready
figures that have been trotted out to
support this claim, it’s the gushing
testimonials — about the sense of
safety, the light traffi c flow, the low
cost of living, the generally good air
quality, all that space — of youngurbanites who’ve relocated from
Manila to Davao that truly piqued
my curiosity. So what makes this
enormous place tick? I’ve journeyed
here to feast my eyes on the urban
sprawl laid out in the shadow of
Mount Apo, the real city that exists
beyond urban myth and regional
prejudice. In short, I’ve come with the
intention of answering that question
for myself.
At first glanceAs I emerge from Francisco Bangoy
airport on a Thursday evening, Davao
seems strangely quiet, disconcertingly
orderly, almost un-Philippine. There
are no taxi touts in the spotless car
park; everything’s in its proper place.
Tank-like SUVs, compact jeepneys
and trikes loaded with travelers purr
down the gentle gradient into town.
No motorbikes, no noise, no sleaze; aubiquitous calm prevails.
Ahead of my trip, I’d imagined
the city as some kind of southern
re-creation of Metro Manila’s Fort
Bonifacio, a quasi-American theme
park of consumer contentment, but it
feels significantly older, or at least more
lived-in. Even so, it comes as a surprise
when I learn that the Apo View Hotel
on J Camus Street, built in 1948, is the
Philippines’ second-oldest hotel.
Another revelation is the scale of
the city proper. Metro Davao’s wider
outskirts cover 244,000km2 — you
can get a measure of its ridiculous
scale from Jack’s Ridge, a WWII
bastion-turned-viewing point — but it’s
possible to breeze through Davao City,
its business and commercial district,
in just minutes even with the sleep-
inducing 30kph speed limit in the
downtown area. Of all the complimentspaid to Davao by new residents, the
near-absence of traffi c snarls is the
most frequently heard. Here the flow
of vehicles only grinds to a halt near
Clockwise from top left: a fine-feathered friendat the Malagos Garden Resort in Calinan; anoutsize replica of Michelangelo’s “David” on thebaywalk; going bananas at Saging Repablik withits all-banana menu; a boat to Talicud Island; atMalagos’ butterfly sanctuary. Facing page: SanPedro Church
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DELIGHTFUL DAVAO
roadblocks where police clamp down
on speeding drivers.
The oddly intimate geography of
the place helps account for the fact
that its many dimly lit alleyways, well
off the main drag, are packed with
alluring eateries. My guide takes me
to Belito’s Vineyard, a cul-de-sac
charmer so secluded it feels as if I’ve
been transported to a rustic village
deep in taga-bukid country. Yet it’s
first class, both as an introduction to
the seafood-rich local cuisine (kinilaw
is particularly good here) and to thewarm hospitality of the Dabawenyos.
One thing you notice straight away
is the affordability of the food and
drinks here as compared to Manila or
Boracay. Likewise, commercial rents
are up to four times cheaper here for
start-ups, and private accommodations
are just as affordable. Neat freak that I
am, I clue in to yet another element of
Davao’s magnetic appeal the moment
I exit the restaurant: the streets are
spotless. So much so that during
my four-day stay, I see exactly one
small pile of litter by the road. It ’s a
remarkably clean place, with recycling
bins distributed throughout the city
center and a citywide ban on outdoor
smoking except in designated areas.
I strike up a conversation with
frequent traveler Dan Andrews, a
native of the US state of Pennsylvania
who owns a manufacturing business
in California, holds business seminars
in Hong Kong and now calls Davao
home. I ask him what makes this citythe perfect base for him. “I’ve been
visiting Davao for over two years now
and I have many friends in the area for
business,” he says. “Davao is one of the
best places in the Philippines to hire,
and it was that, along with my love of
pick-up basketball, that brought me
here initially. I’ve found that during
the times I needed to be based in the
Philippines, it’s the spot with the best
mix of things to do but still a slow pace
of life. Beyond that, there’s the easy
access to nature and quiet.”
Dan’s words returned to me that
night as I plugged in to my decidedly
First World-speed hotel Wi-Fi,
downloaded Google Maps and vowed
to take a break from the virtual world
the next day and step into something
significantly more real.
Mountain to sea
“Relax. Explore. Repeat.” So says the
Tourism Promotions Board’s slogan
for Davao, which appears in a video
picturing vast open spaces, glimmering
lakes and hike-friendly mountains.
Happy to do the tourist board’s bidding,
at sun-up I head over to the lofty Eden
Nature Park & Resort, which is an
hour from town via the city’s western
Clockwise from top: the Davao City LegislativeBuilding; signature products at Sea Green Café; asampling of the café’s healthy brunch offerings; a
viewing deck at the Malagos Garden Resort
P H O T O S B Y J O R E M C
A T I L O A
N D L E G I S L A T I V
E B U I L D I N G J O J I E A L C A N T A R A .
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DELIGHTFUL DAVAO
outskirts. The drive along MacArthur
Highway towards Mount Apo National
Park gradually reveals a verdant, very
different landscape. Setting aside the
occasional shack, for the most part
it’s a scene of comfortable rural living,
complete with plantations, makeshift
stalls and roadside homes. The sturdy
road leads up a giddy incline towards
Toril, a Japanese settlement dating
back to the early 20th century.
Figuratively and literally, Edenworks on many levels: it’s an undulating
patchwork of gardens, water features,
sports facilities, private cabins, a spa
and nature attractions, all connected
by walkways that provide a workout
and a welcome blast of mountain air.
The real draw for daytime visitors is
the wildlife: fan-flaring peacocks that
strut around like they own the place, a
smattering of wild horses, a deer herd
and an impressive number of rare bird
species. A sort of all-in-one family
health resort-cum-zoo, Eden also offers
a fine opportunity to soak up views of
mighty Apo. Those who aren’t inclined
to leg it along hilly trails might find
Malagos Garden Resort in Calinan
— with its orchid nursery, butterfly
sanctuary and bird parks — a satisfying
alternative. Blessed with plentiful
coastline to go with its hilly outskirts,
Davao is generally typhoon-free and
its year-round warmth and best-of-all-worlds situation make for easy access
to islands and beaches. Though Isla
Reta (on Talicud Island, boats depart
from Sta Ana Wharf downtown) is
more remote and, inevitably, more
enticing, Samal — a short sea crossing
away — is the largest and most popular
of the islands here. It’s the best option
if an idle afternoon of pristine sand
and translucent seawater — served
up in this case courtesy of Paradise
Clockwise from top: Huckleberry offers cocktails byNYC-based mixologist Enzo Lim; the flavors andambience reflect the US Deep South; among theofferings are jugs of rum infused with tropical fruitlike mangosteen; exterior view; a wicked cocktail
Island Beach Resort — is what you’re
after. The 10-minute ride from the city
in an outrigger boat (PHP40) offers a
preview of Samal’s palm-filled interior
while the return trip on the final boat
at 5.30pm boasts fabulous views of the
sinking sun as it casts an orange halo
around Apo’s boulder-strewn peak.
Local flavorsIts proximity to nature’s delights
notwithstanding, Davao City is betterdescribed as solid and functional than
spectacular. But just about any city
looks impressive from on high and
that’s the selling point of Jack’s Ridge,
my next stop. Davao’s premier vantage
point, it’s also home to the city ’s best
P H O T O S B Y J O R E M C
A T I L O .
O N M O D E L : D R E
S S B Y S U I T E B L A N C O .
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DELIGHTFUL DAVAO
DAVAODIRECTORYEAT AND DRINKBelito’s Vineyard, Palm Dr,
Bajada, tel: +82 227 6726Taklobo Restaurant, Jack’s Ridge,Shrine Hills, Matina, tel: +82 297
8830/297 8831Huckleberry Southern Kitchenand Bar, Corner of Rizal St and
Bangoy St, tel: +82 285 2586Hoy, Panga!, Bacaca Rd, tel: +82921 550 6090
Sea Green Café & LifestyleShop, Circumferential Rd, DonaVicenta Subd, tel: +82 305 4765
Toryano’s Chicken Haus, LegazpiSt (in front of Apo View Hotel), tel:+82 221 5556
BU Tapas, Palayo St, tel: +82 2846364Sales Bar Tekanplor, Sales St
Soundbox Bar, J Camus St, tel:+82282 4220Coffee for Peace, G/ F, Fredric
Bldg, MacArthur Hwy, Matina, tel:+82 296 1053
traditional Filipino fare. If you neglect
to try the kare-kare at Taklobo, with its
super-rich peanut sauce, your heart
might thank you but you’ll have missed
a sublime treat. The restaurant’s
quintessentially local kinilaw,
bagaybay (tuna testicles) and bihod
(fish roe) deserve a mention, too.
Back in the downtown area, another
don’t-miss Davao diner is Toryano’s
Chicken Haus, a cholesterol-rich
carnivore shack serving crocodile sisig
alongside lechon manok (skewered
poultry), tinola and a mean sinigang
(meat and tamarind soup).
Packing away all that salty animal
flesh is thirsty work. So after a hearty
meal I head off to HuckleberrySouthern Kitchen and Bar, an instant-
hit concept space twinkling with fairy
lights and boasting personality in
spades. This eatery with its “modern
Americana cuisine featuring dishes
from the Deep South,” as co-owner
Chris Pamintuan puts it, occupies the
ground floor of the Casa de Oboza,
which was built in 1929 by the family
of a former mayor. For true-blue local
flavor, try the Cacao Old Fashioned,
where nib rum infused with Mindanao
coffee beans is used in place of whisky.
Davao isn’t a city full to bursting with
hipster nightspots but this retro-
modernist curio just might prove the
game-changer.
Despite a local tendency to stick
with old foodie favorites, other
entrepreneurs have set up stall here
to considerable success. There’s the
cozy BU Tapas, Bebidas y Bodega,
Davao’s first tapas bar, which is owned
by an Australian of Spanish-Filipino
descent; the original Hoy, Panga!, a tuna
specialist that has hit it big nationwide
on the strength of its imaginative
take on seafood (grilled tuna flakes
in a deep-fried bun, anyone?); andthe bright, inviting Sea Green Café
and Lifestyle Shop, whose claims to
fame are its “soul food” (aka healthy
pescetarian dishes) and killer coffee.
Starbucks has notably refrained from
opening here and, given that local
chains such as BluGré Coffee (est
1998) have been so successful, it would
likely be tough to penetrate the market.
Within a 200m radius of Sea Green,
several foodie haunts have opened in
Newly opened drinking and diningspots have helped spice up DavaoCity’s downtown core
P H O T O B
Y J O J I E A L C A N T A R A
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DELIGHTFUL DAVAO
the past year alone, including a dim
sum joint, an Italian eatery and an
upscale pâtisserie.
While the food scene appears to be
thriving, at the moment culture isn’t
among the city’s strong points. Still,
there are pockets of promise that
suggest more might be revealed if I had
a few more days to spare. Then I could
find out what’s on offer beyond live-
music spaces like Sales Bar in quiet
Chinatown, a graffi ti-ed refuge for rockbands and iPod battlers, Soundbox Bar,
a music and revue space that keeps the
party crowd happy, and modest indie
cinema Cinematheque Davao.
And while at the moment the city
lacks a major performance space,
I suspect there’s no shortage of
performers waiting in the wings for a
proper venue. One night I see a talented
dance troupe practicing by a roadside
shopfront, likely for lack of anywhere
else to bust their moves. And these
are proper, energetic moves — a mix
of choreographed hip-hop and easy
freestyling that seems to capture
some of the city ’s upbeat spirit.
Ahead of my visit, I’d expected
a city far more straight-laced andrestrictive than the one I end up
discovering. I come away with one
abiding impression — that Davao’s
defining characteristic isn’t on-edge
obeisance, but a far more relaxed
contentment. Davao’s benign climate
and ambience mean that it always
feels like summertime — and yes, the
living here is undeniably easy.
“Relax. Explore. Repeat”? Thanks,
don’t mind if I do.
DAVAODIRECTORYVISIT
Paradise Island Beach Resort,Samal Island, tel: +82 233 0251;paradiseislanddavao.com
Eden Nature Park & Resort,Toril Barangay Rd, Toril, tel: +82296 0791
Malagos Garden Resort,Calinan-Baguio Rd
STAYSeda Abreeza Hotel, JP LaurelAve, Bajada, Davao City, tel: +82
244 3000/322 8888; sedahotels.com/abreeza Apo View Hotel, 150 J Camus
St, Davao City, tel: +82 221 6430;apoview.com
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Clockwise from above: A leisurely Sunday by theDavao Gulf; artwork by Ann Pamintuan at theSeda Abreeza Hotel; the hotel’s lobby restaurantserves fresh tropical fruit juices made from localproduce; baked goods and a fresh salad at the SeaGreen Café
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For visitors to Mati, the mostpopular leisure-time activitiesinclude surfing, skim-boarding,
light-aircraft flights and, well, snoozing.The conditions in this southeasterngulf town on the fringes of the Pacific
Ocean are perfect for doing all four ina single weekend, and vacationers fromthe nearby big city wouldn’t have it any
other way. Before heading to Mati — besure to stop at the Sleeping Dinosaurviewing point as you get close to town
— pre-book your resort stay or packtents and other camping gear.
SURF OR SKIMBOARD INDAHICAN BEACHDahican Beach, about 10 minutes
from the city center by car, is Mati’scenterpiece. This 17km stretch ofsoft, beige-colored sand is ideal for
sunbathing and has plenty of shade-providing palm trees. Kids who liketo build things in the sand are sure to
stay busy for hours, but be careful notto let them wander off unsupervisedto the rocky sections of the beach,
where sea urchins dwell amid the sharpcoral. Compared to other well-knownsurf-and-sand destinations, Dahican is a
rather quiet beach with just a few resorts
Cebu Pacific fliesto Davao City fromacross the network.www.cebupacificair.com
Escape to MatiWhen Davao City urbanites are looking to decompress, they
hop in the car for the three-hour drive to the neighboring
province of Davao Oriental and hole up in this laid-back town
— a quick online search yields fewer than10 results — that are well separated fromone another. Stroll along the beach and
eventually you’ll come across a lifeguardstation that doubles as a surf shack,manned by lifeguards who rent out boards
and give surf and skim-boarding lessons(it’s about PHP300 for the board rental andcoaching). Dahican makes for the perfect
classroom if you’re new to either sport —the waves here are manageable and breakon the sandy beach.
FLY WITH THE MINDANAO SAGAFLYING CLUB
For a bird’s-eye view of the beach andmost of Mati, for that matter, head tothe city’s airport where the Mindanao
Saga Flying Club (facebook.com/mindanaosagaflyingclub) offers 15-minuteultralight plane rides for just PHP1,600.
Licensed pilots are available to take youon exhilarating flights that offer breath-taking views — of the city, the green fields
beyond and the beach itself, where theplane swoops down until you can almostmake out the faces of sunbathers (how’s
that for a thrill ride?). Prime flying hours arefrom 5.30-9am, when wind conditions areat their best, so be sure to turn up at the
airport early.
RECHARGE BEACHSIDE AT
TROPICAL KANAKBAIIf you’re traveling with a big group(it’s always good to bring the party
with you), rent a fully furnished beachhouse at Tropical Kanakbai (tel: +63927 287 1790; dahicanbeachclub.com).
You’ll enjoy all the comforts of homeand then some: alfresco dining areas, agarden dotted with coconut trees and a
scenic beachfront that’s ideal for after-dark viewings of the moon and stars.There are two luxury beach houses on
the property, each with two bedroomsthat can accommodate at least fourpeople per room. You can book a room
or an entire house and make full useof the kitchen facilities. Hit the marketearly in the morning to get first dibs
on the catch of the day and let yourdesignated chef whip up lunch while
you lounge on beachside hammocks.If you think Davao City is laid-back, beprepared for an even more blissfullyunhurried pace in Mati City.
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TRAVEL CULTURE
It’s Bangkok’s most popular gatheringplace for tourists, but Khao San Roadremains very much in touch with itsroots as a humble backpacker ghetto
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This description, though simple
and accurate, gives barely
a hint of the culture shock
that awaits first-time visitorsto one of Bangkok’s most
celebrated streets. Khao San is a stretch of
concrete unlike any other. This you’ll learn
at first glance.
Upon arriving, it might be the massive
jumble of signboards and neon lights that
first catches your attention. Or maybe the
omnipresent crowd of farangs (foreigners),
their oversized backpacks proclaiming
their status as tourists. That or the
ubiquitous hostels, food stalls and curio
LEADER OFTHE PACK
These days, Bangkok’sKhao San Road looks
flashier, its merchants
savvier and its crowds more
diverse than ever. No longer
just a backpacking pit stop,
the area has become an
attraction in itself
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STORY AND PHOTOS BY LESTER V. LEDESMA
“Khao San Road was backpacker land...
The main function of the street was as a
decompression chamber for all those about
to leave Thailand; a halfway house between
the East and the West” – Alex Garland,
excerpt from The Beach
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TRAVEL CULTURE
shops offering everything from a cheap
space to lay your head for the night,
phad thai noodles and dreadlock wigs
to soccer jerseys, fake IDs, guided tours,
tattered old paperbacks and bargain-
basement internet access.
It might not look it but Khao San
Road is very much a part of Thailand.
In fact, it’s a long-time cornerstone
of the kingdom’s booming tourism
industry. To some, Khao San Road is
a one-stop tourist service center, the
go-to place for low-cost lodgings and
supplies. To others, it’s little more than
a ghetto for the bottom-class tourist.
If Patpong stands for sex shows and
Chatuchak is all about seeminglyendless rows of market stalls, Khao
San is synonymous with budget
travel — and that oft-romanticized,
frequently misunderstood lifestyle of
the “independent traveler”.
Not too long ago, writer Alex
Garland brought this nomadic,
somewhat escapist counterculture
into the popular imagination with his
novel The Beach. In it, he describes
a pseudo-brotherhood of penniless,
commercialization. Almost every
major capital in Southeast Asia has its
own version of this street but none are
nearly as well-defined or prominent as
Khao San.
Thanon Khao San (its Thai name)
began treading this path in the early
’70s, when farang travelers convinced
local residents to open their homes to
paying guests. True to the backpacker
preference for “roughing it”, Khao Sanat that time was a seedy place. Save for
a lone hotel on one end of the street,
the rooms for rent were little more
than single beds sandwiched between
thin, plywood walls. Meals were served
in dank garages while the nightlife
consisted largely of kicking back for
nightly video screenings in guesthouse
living rooms or gawking at the passing
parade of buskers, sex workers and
transvestites outside.
unkempt individuals on a search for
enlightenment beyond the beaten
track. Though much of the story
unfolds elsewhere, it is on Khao
San Road, in the heart of Bangkok’s
Banglamphu area, that he gives many
of us our first glimpse inside the
backpackers’ sub-culture.
How a simple street in a developing
country became a magnet for
wanderers from across the globe is
a familiar story of tourism-induced
Above: Exotic tribal beads and bracelets wereonce trophies for hardcore backpackers, butthey’re now sold at Khao San Road’s bustlingstreet market; Below: hippie-type characterslike this bandana-clad rastafarian are still acommon sight on Khao San
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So popular was Khao San Road among
farangs (foreigners) that the rest of Bangkok
considered it alien territory
To members of the backpacker
community, it was apparently
desirable — even fashionable — to
live in such squalid conditions, the
spartan surroundings reinforcing the
notion of “going native”. News of these
dingy guesthouses spread by word-of-
mouth, eventually earning mention
in the pages of the then nascent
Lonely Planet guidebook series. And
so the tourists came and conquered,
their dollars feeding a fast-growing
cottage industry. So popular was Khao
San among farangs that the rest of
Bangkok considered it alien territory.
At the height of its hippie-backpacker
heyday, many Thais would drive slowlyalong the street with their windows
rolled down, gawking at the strange
foreigners with their beads, dreadlocks
and shabby clothes.
But as backpackers themselves
often lament, the presence of tourists
invariably alters the landscape. The
’80s saw a dramatic decrease in the
cost of in
