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small print shape, text & pictures: Franz Ehrnthaller Please contact me for any questions, corrections, new routes or in any cases: Franz Ehrnthaller Berg-am-Laim Str. 145 81673 München Franz@Ehrnthaller.de

Notice: Outdoor climbing contains a certain amount of risk and everybody has to handle it self dependent.

Rockslide, fastening outburst, absence of knowledge and misestimation of the own ability are the reasons that some climbers loses their life’s. Climbing takes place on everyone’s own risk.

The description of the ways and routs occurs in all conscience. The author takes no responsibility for any details. Everybody has to judge the risk and act accordingly.

Please were an helmet, anytime, anywhere!

Check the bolts before you use it!

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Index

Preface…………………………………………………………………...... 4

Travel to Karpathos............................................................................ 5

Climbing Gear on Karpathos............................................................. 6

Climbing Map..................................................................................... 7

Adia / Chicken Climbing Bay.............................................................. 8

Adia/ Waterpipe ................................................................................ 14

Achata / Bayern-bloc.......................................................................... 16

Afiartis / First...................................................................................... 26

Afiartis / Kastello................................................................................. Kira Panagia......................................................................................

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Nameless bolts..................................................................................

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Preface In spring 2005, Ii travelled to Karpathos for windsurfing. I have seen a beautiful Island, perfect for windsurfing and other kind of sports. I´m an enthusiastic rock climber and I have also seen many nice walls. But in the opposite to Kalymnos there are no fixed climbing routs. I returned in summer, and so since summer 2005 there are some climbing possibilities on Karpathos. Now it´s October 2010 and Ii write the new version of the guide. A lot of climbing routes in nice different spots are now on Karpathos, enough for a week of climbing. Many climbers came to Karpathos and I heard only good feedback. In Summer 2010 I developed a internet site, www.karpathos-climbing.com. Likely you had the guide from there. At this site there is also an forum, the Karpathos Climbing Forum. This is the fastest way to get the news on new routes and meet some climber on Karpathos. If you want to comment some routes, there is space for everything. Try it! Of course, you can`t compare Karpathos with Kalymnos. But this is absolutely not necessary, on Karpathos you can do much more than rock climbing. Karpathos is very famous for windsurfing and have many nice small beaches for an ordinary holiday.

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Travel to Karpathos

There are some direct flights from German and Austria (Air Berlin). Over that it´s possible to fly via Rhodos and Athens. Olympic Airways offers 3 flights per day from Rhodos to Karpathos You can travel also by ferry to Karpathos, Anek Lines offers a ferry from Athen 3 times per week.

For best support and Prices, write to:

Manolis Tours, Schlesienstr. 7

82278 Althegneberg Tel.: 08202/903333

www.manolis-tours.de

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Climbing Gear on Karpathos

Now it´s possible to rent so climbing stuff on Karpathos! You can also join a climbing course.

Located at Afiartis, Gun Bay Phone ++30/2245091061

http://www.club-mistral.com/de/

Please check this before you rely on that information and share it with other climbers at www.karpathos-climbing.com.

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Adia / Chicken-Climbing-Bay About The Chicken Climbing Bay is located 10 meters behind a beautiful beach. The climbs are perfect for a combination of a bath and climbing day. There are only easy climbs and the protection is very good. After a perfect climbing day, the Tavern „Pine Tree“ offers great food. If you need rooms for the night, there are the Sunset Studios, a nice place to sleep in Adia. Access/ Parking From Pigadia to Menetes. Then to Arkassa and through Finiki in direction to Messochori. Adia is a small Village near to the beach. Directly after the small, one-way bridge, turn left and drive to the Pine Tree restaurant. Park there. Approach Directly through the restaurant, follow the small path on the cliffs in right direction. After 10 minutes you reach a small, nice beach. The climbs are 20 meters behind the beach.

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Adia / Chicken- Climbing- Bay

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Adia / Chicken- Climbing- Bay

On the Right 1, Chicken Habbit 4 Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller A nice, easy climb for beginners. 2, Chickitita 5- Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller Overhanging start, the route finishes in „Chicken Habbit“ 3, Chickeria 5- Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller

4, Chicko 4+ Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller

5, Chicken Run 3 Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller Very easy one, follow „Best way down“ at the top!

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Adia / Chicken- Climbing- Bay

In the middle 1,Chisi (1b Chisa) 5 Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller The variant is a little bit “harder”, nice climb! 2, Chicken Run I 6- Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller If you want it a little bit rougher 3, Chicken Run II 6+ Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller The fist 2 meters are not so easy! 4, Chickolo ~ 8 Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller

5, Chicky Girl 6+ Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller

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Adia / Chicken- Climbing- Bay

On the left 1,Charly Brown 5+ Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller Very nice climb! Try it, but be aware of loose rocks!

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Adia / Waterpipe About The brand new sector “Waterpipe” is located directly on a path to the Kala Limni. It´s a huge wall, a little bit overhanging and has potential for many high- grade routes. Most of the day the wall is in the shadow, perfect for hot summer days. The whole area has a great potential so watch out on www.karpathos-climbing.com for new routes! Access/ Parking From Pigadia to Menetes. Then to Arkassa and through Finiki in direction to Messochori. Adia is a small Village near to the beach. Directly after the small, one-way bridge, turn left and drive to small habour. Park there. Approach Go back to the small, one-way bridge. There is a sign for the path to the Kala Limni / Lastos. Follow the path about 10 to 15 Minutes. The wall is on the left side, it can´t be overseen.

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Adia / Waterpipe

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Adia / Waterpipe 1, Tibu 7- Ehrnthaller, Glück, Hentschel 2, Taba 6 Ehrnthaller, Glück, Hentschel

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„Bayern Block“ at Achata Beach About Achata Beach is one oft the nicest beaches in Karpathos. The beach is surrounded from impressing walls. There are many possibilities for new climbs, from easy alpinist climbs to hard boulders. There are many new Routes in 2010! Access From Karpathos Town (Pigardia) to Aperi; shortly before Aperi there is al small bridge (one-way); directly after the bridge right and follow the sings to Achata Beach. Approach At the last bend there is a small way to the wall. You will need good shoes, there are many thorns on the plants! Approach to sector “backdoor” and “boat or goat” Since 2010 there are many new climbs at achata beach and it´s not so easy to reach all of them. The new sectors “backdoor” and “boat or goat” have many nice new paths. Especially “boat or goat” is excellent easy top- rope rock climbing in great atmosphere. To reach “boat or goat” you have to go to the sector “backdoor” (via sector “on the left”, then follow the ledge on the left). From the fixpoint on “backdoor” you have to abseil 1 or 2 pitch to the ground. The way back to achata is a very easy 3+ to the sector “Backdoor” or a 5+ (Hoamweh).

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„Bayern Block“ at Achata Beach

1 – “on the right” 2 – “in the middle” 3 – “on the left” 4 – “the lower wall” 5 –“backdoor”(abseil to “boat or goat”) 6 – “boat or goat”

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„Bayern Block“ at Achata Beach

On the right (sun in the morning) 1. Weh` dam 5 Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller 2. Bastel` Wastel 5- Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller 3. 3x Mythos 5- Markus Glück

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„Bayern Block“ at Achata Beach

In the middle (sun all the day) 1, Watschnbam 8- Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller Perfekt hard climb. 2, Bockfotz´n 7- Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller Big holds, big fun! 3, Boarndlkramer 7- Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller Looks easier than it is. 4, Oachkatzlschwoaf 7- Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller Anyone who can say this in clean Bavarian language to me at the start of this climb gets an cold Mythos at the tavern.

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„Bayern Block“ at Achata Beach On the left (sun in the afternoon) 1. Angstpoopi (oder Angstschoaß) 8- Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller Very exposed line – fearfart possible ☺ 2. Winsler 7+ Dieter Hentschel There is a part in the middle – cry – but it won´t help!

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„Bayern Block“ at Achata Beach The lower wall (sun in the afternoon) 1. Suach 6+ Markus Glück 2. Linger 6+ Franz Ehrnthaller 3. ½ Fakir 5+ Franz Ehrnthaller 4. Fakir 5 Franz Ehrnthaller 5. 3D Fakir 5 Franz Ehrnthaller

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„Bayern Block“ at Achata Beach Boat or Goat 1. MDF (Top Rope) 5- Franz Ehrnthaller 2. Guckslkuh (Top Rope) 5- Franz Ehrnthaller 3. Vertikutierer (Top Rope) 4+ Franz Ehrnthaller 4. Jaga (Top Rope) 5- Franz Ehrnthaller

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„Bayern Block“ at Achata Beach Boat or Goat 5. Hase (Top Rope) 5 Franz Ehrnthaller 6. Mima (Top Rope) 4+ Franz Ehrnthaller 7. Großer Tiger 4+ Franz Ehrnthaller The only lead line in this sector. You can reach it also by boat!

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„Bayern Block“ at Achata Beach Backdoor

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„Bayern Block“ at Achata Beach Backdoor 1. Wuidara 6- Franz Ehrnthaller Lower Wall 2. Easy 3+ Markus Glück

3. Woas er nimma 4 Markus Glück 4. Hoamweh 5+ Franz Ehrnthaller

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Afiarits / Sector “First” About The Name of the Sector is a fact, it´s the first possibility to climb near the airport and the surfing spots. Therefore i had to drill some holes in the wall and create a climbing spot. Perfect for a windless day. If it changes, you will see; there is a perfect panorama over Afiartis up there. The wall is always in the sun, it´s getting hot there! Access/ Parking From the airport in the direction to Pigadia. Before the street goes up to the mountain, there is a small crossroad. Right to the Hotel Poseidon, you have to turn left there. Drive to the end of the road (holding right at the end) an park there. Approach You see the wall in front of you. Go across the field and reach the wall in 5 Minutes.

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Afiartis / Sector “First”

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Afiartis / Sector “First”

1, Monster Man (M.M.) 7 Franz Ehrnthaller

5, Tama 4 Franz Ehrnthaller For beginners, to learn elementary things.

2, BBQ 6 Franz Ehrnthaller Nice! With two cracks and big holds.

6, Walkie 6 Franz Ehrnthaller Bolted 3 years ago, who kiss it awake?

3, Guano Apes (G.A.) 6 Franz Ehrnthaller Hard part in the middle, A0 possible.

7, Talkie 6+ Franz Ehrnthaller Bolted 3 years ago, who kiss it awake?

4, Serious Guano (S.G.) ~8 Franz Ehrnthaller Nice line, but to hard for me – for you too?

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Afiarits / Kastello

About The Kastello is a old, small addicted Fort from the second World War on a hill behind the airport. It´s located near the beautiful Diakofti Beach in the south of Karpathos. Access/ Parking Drive to the Airport and further to the small Beaches near the Airport. Follow the “Diakofti” Beach signs and the big, sandy road to the small hill. After the old gate you can drive left or right to the climbing paths. Follow the road, left or right, to the end. Park there. Approach Right sector: You can see the wall directly from the car. Left sector: Walk about 10 Minutes over sharp stones to the Wall.

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Afiartis / Kastello / Left

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Afiartis / Kastello / Left

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Afiartis / Kastello / Left

1, Nameless 4 Mistral Very long, but very green.

6, Nameless 4+ Mistral Nice!

2, Nameless 3 Mistral The climb needs a little bit of “Roundup”

7, Nameless 6- Mistral Looks good, nice Path!

3, Nameless 3+ Mistral Nice but green.

8, Nameless 5+ Mistral Also very good.

4, Nameless 4 Mistral

9, Nameless 6- Mistral Big Holds, big Fun!

5, Nameless 4+ Mistral Be careful in the lower Part.

10, Nameless 6 Mistral Big Holds, big Fun!

1, Nameless 6 Mistral Very nice Climb!

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Kira Panagia

About Last summer, I was there for bathing with my wife. Directly at the beach, I saw a very good wall with bolts in it! Unfortunately my climbing stuff was in the hotel. So, the difficulty of the routes are only estimated.

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Kira Panagia

access Drive to Kira Panagia, park at the street to the beach. On the left hand side is the wall

approach There is no approach, you can park your car directly at the wall.

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Kira Panagia 1. Nameless ~ 5 2. Nameless ~ 5- 3. Nameless ~ 6 4. Nameless ~ 6+

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Nameless Bolts

About First about the name: „Nameless Bolts“, get’s this name from me because I didn’t know the real name of this climbing place. Because of my short holidays Í didn’t climb this easy routs. So, the difficulty of the routs are only estimated.

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Nameless Bolts

access The wall can’t be overseen, it’s directly at the street from Arkassa to Finiki.

approach There is no approach, you can park your car directly at the wall.

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Nameless Bolts

On the left

1. Name not known ~ 5- 2. Name not known ~ 5 . 3. Name not known ~ 6 4. Name not known ~ ? 5. Name not known ~ 5

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Nameless Bolts

On the right 1. Name not known ~ 4 2. Name not known ~ 4 3. Name not known ~ 4+