Skincare essentials

Designing new values in chemistry

Skincare essentialsFormulation guidelines

Lamberti Technologiesfor Personal Care.

Lamberti is a manufacturer of chemi-cal specialties focused on customers’ needs. Based on well-established Tech-nological Platforms (Natural and Synthetic Polymers and Oleochemicals) the Person-al Care portfolio offers traditional prod-ucts together with patented raw materials for Skin Care, Hair Care, Oral Care, Make Up and Toiletries. Innovative approach in combination with heritage is the reason why our solutions for Personal Care, especially ESAFLOR®, VISCOLAM® and EUCAROL® brands, gained global recognition. Over the years we have been in sincere vi-cinity with our customers.

Our devoted collaboration in transformingexperiences through the introduction of groundbreaking patented raw materials enables us to shape new reality of respect-ful science, good chemistry and, as a re-sult, to provide unique tailor made service. All new developments supported by our R&D laboratories are committed towards sustainability and environmentally friendly chemistry, in compliance with regulatory requirements. To better focus on formulation design, Lamberti has integrated Kalichem, who has a well-recognized know-how in the world of cosmeceuticals and synergistic ingredients.

OLEOCHEMICALS

SYNTHETIC POLYMERS

NATURAL POLYMERS

FORMULATION GUIDELINES PERSONAL CARE

Make Beauty Happen, Make Innovation Real.

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Minimal ingredients, allies for a simple skin care

There are some people who will have a bathroom cupboard full of skincare prod-ucts, while some are quite happy to go with just a basic routine. Ultimately, caring for your skin is simply personal.

Skin naturally loses the ability to retain moisture as we age and daily activities, such as cleansing, can strip natural hy-drators from the surface. Therefore you should always look after your skin, to help it look heathy and soft.

Ingredients matter: “Skincare Essentials” entails formulation ideas with simple and short ingredients’ lists, to give your skin a beautiful new beginning every day.

A thoughtful and complete selection of textures, which can be easily tailored with your favorite actives, based on each per-son’s individual skin type and needs.

naturally derived conditioners and rheology modifiers

emulsifiers, viscosifiers and stabilizer for O/W emulsions

Embrace our formulationstrategy: less is better! Simplified formulations with multi-functional ingredients Optimized ingredients list,for honest labels


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Melting cream-gel

Cream-gel providing a pleasant melting sensation on the skin, combining quick ab-sorption and good mosturization.

VISCOLAM® AT 100 P is a versatile and effective rheology modifier, emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer. It makes emulsions’ formation easy and quick: it is supplied in a pre-neutralized, ready-to-use, liquid form and it is effective over a wide pH range.

It is suitable for O/W lotions, creams and butters, as well as for gels with high solvent content. Emulsions are extremely light and fast-breaking, enabling a quick absorption into the skin.

VISCOLAM® AT 100 P is cold processa-ble, an advantageous peculiarity in case you want to customize the formulation with a heat-labile active ingredients.

LAMCOS 177

Phase INCI name Trade name % w/w

A

1 Aqua (Water) to 100

2 Glycerin 2.0

3 Propylene Glycol 4.0

B

1 Isononyl Isononanoate 2.0

2 Butylene Gycol Dicaprylate/Caprate 1.2

3 Ethylhexyl Palmitate 6.0

C

1 Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate,Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-10 VISCOLAM® AT 100 P 2.0

D

1 Preservatives q.s.

2 Parfum (Fragrance) q.s.

3 Citric Acid, 20% soln. To pH 5.0

Manufacturing procedure:In the main vessel, add ingredients of phase A. In a separate vessel, mix ingredients of phase B. Add phase B to phase A under stirring; add C1 and homogenize to obtain a uniform emulsion. Add ingredients of phase D and adjust pH to ~5.5 with a citric acid solution.

General characteristics:Appearance: white emulsionpH: ~5.5Viscosity (Brookfield RVT+Helipath, 10 rpm, 25°C, 30’’): ~ 60000 mPa*s

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Detox maskDetox mask with purifying clay, for a healthy looking skin. ESAFLOR® HM 22 is an effective rheology modifier, best suited for emulsions’ stabi-lization. It is a non-ionic derivative of the natural gum obtained from the guar plant. Besides its unique rheology, it contributes towards a nice and soft skin feel.

VISCOLAM® AT 100 P is a versatile and effective rheology modifier, emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer.

It makes emulsions’ formation easy and quick: it is supplied in a pre-neutralized, ready-to-use, liquid form and it is effective over a wide pH range. It is suitable for O/W lotions, creams and butters, as well as for gels with high solvent content. Emulsions are extremely light and fast-breaking, enabling a quick absorption into the skin.

VISCOLAM® AT 100 P permits to stabilize high contents of mineral additives such as Kaolin.


A

1 Aqua (Water) To 100

2 C18-C22 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxypropyl Guar ESAFLOR® HM22 0.2


B

1 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.0

2 Cetearyl Glucoside 1.0

3 Glyceryl Stearate 2.0

4 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 5.0


6 Cetylethyl Hexanoate 1.0

C


D

1 Kaolin 15.0

2 Aqua (Water) 20.0

E

1 Parfum (Fragrance) q.s

2 Preservatives q.s


Manufacturing procedure:In the main vessel, add A2 into water under vigorous stirring; adjust pH to 5.5 with a citric acid solution and keep stirring for ~20’ to ensure the complete hydration of the polymer. In a side vessel, mix the ingredients of phase B. Heat phases A and B to 70-75°C. Add phase B to A, homogenize, then cool down to 40°C under moderate stirring. Add C1 into the formulation and homogenize. In a side vessel, premix phase D under vigorous stirring, then add it to the main vessel and homogenize until smooth. Add ingredients of phase E in given order, under moderate stirring.

General characteristics:Appearance: white emulsionpH: ~5.5Viscosity (Brookfield RVT+Helipath, 10 rpm, 25°C, 30’’): ~ 70000 mPa*s

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LAMCOS 174


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Cocooning body milkMoisturizing body milk, with a soft and silky skin feel.

VISCOLAM® AT 64/P is a versatile and ef-fective rheology modifier, emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer. VISCOLAM® AT 64/P makes emulsions’ formation easy and quick: it is supplied in a pre-neutralized, ready-to-use, liquid form. It is suitable for O/W lotions, creams and but-ters.

VISCOLAM® AT 64/P offers a perfect bal-ance between softness and lightness for all types of application and climate. Emulsions are easy to apply and readily absorbed into the skin, with a soft, cushiony and velvety texture.

LAMCOS 173


A


2 Glycerin 4.0

B

1 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 10.0

2 Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 5.0

3 Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 0.1

C

1Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Laureth-8

VISCOLAM® AT 64/P 3.0

D

1 Panthenol 1.0




Manufacturing procedure:Add A2 into water. Add ingredients of phase B to phase A under stirring. Add C1 and homogenize until a smooth emulsion is obtained. Add ingredients of phase E and adjust pH with a citric acid solution.

General characteristics:Appearance: white emulsionpH: ~6.5Viscosity (Brookfield RVT+Helipath, 10 rpm, 25°C, 30’’): ~60000 mPa*s

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A


2 Glycerin 6.0

3 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05

4 C18-C22 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxypropyl Guar ESAFLOR® HM22 0.1


B

1 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 3.0


3 Isopropyl Myristate 4.0


5 Glyceryl Stearate 3.0

C


D

1 Panthenol 0.4

2 Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 0.05

3 Preservatives q.s


LAMCOS 175

Manufacturing procedure:In the main vessel, mix ingredients A1-3. Disperse A4 under vigorous stirring and adjust pH to 5.5 with a citric acid solution. Keep stirring for ~20’ in order to ensure the complete hydration of the polymer. Heat phase A to 60°C. In a separate vessel, mix ingredients of phase B and heat to 60°C, until completely melted. Add phase B to phase A, then cool down below 40°C under stirring. Add C1 and homogenize until a homogeneous emulsion is formed. Add ingredients of phase D in given order.

General characteristics:Appearance: white emulsionpH: ~5.5Viscosity (Brookfield RVT+Helipath, 10 rpm, 25°C, 30’’): ~10000 mPa*s

Softening hand cream

Rich hand cream with a pleasant moistur-izing and silky feel.

ESAFLOR® HM 22 is an effective rheology modifier, best suited for emulsions’ stabi-lization. It is a non-ionic derivative of the natural gum obtained from the guar plant. Besides its unique rheology, it contributes towards a nice and soft skin feel.

VISCOLAM® AT 100 P is a versatile and effective rheology modifier, emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer. It makes emulsions’ formation easy and quick: it is supplied in a pre-neutralized, ready-to-use, liquid form and it is effective over a wide pH range. It is suitable for O/W lotions, creams and butters, as well as for gels with high sol-vent content. Emulsions are extremely light and fast-breaking, enabling a quick absorption into the skin.


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Shea body butterBody Butter with a rich touch paired with a fast absorption into the skin.

ESAFLOR® ZERO-X is a crosslinker-free cationic derivative of natural guar gum. It is manufactured through ESAFLOR® ZERO-X technology, a sustainable process pat-ented by Lamberti. ESAFLOR® ZERO-X provides dual benefits of conditioning and thickening: its cationic charge interacts with keratin, leaving skin nice and soft.

VISCOLAM® AT 100 P is a versatile and effective rheology modifier, emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer. It makes emulsions’ formation easy and quick: it is supplied in a pre-neutralized, ready-to-use, liquid form and it is effective over a wide pH range. It is suitable for O/W lotions, creams and butters, as well as for gels with high solvent content. Emulsions are extremely light and fast-breaking, enabling a quick absorption into the skin.

LAMCOS 176

Manufacturing procedure:

In the main vessel, add A2 into water. Add A3 under vigorous stirring; keep stirring for ~20’ in order to ensure the complete hydration of the polymer. Heat phase A to 60°C. In a separate vessel, mix ingredients of phase B and heat to 60°C, until completely melted. Add phase B to phase A and cool down below 40°C under stirring. Add C1 and homogenize. Add ingredients of phase D under stirring, then adjust pH to ~5.5 with a citric acid solution.

General characteristics:

Appearance: white emulsionpH: ~5.5Viscosity (Brookfield RVT+Helipath, 10 rpm, 25°C, 30’’): ~ 45000 mPa*s



A


2 Glycerin 2.0

3 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride ESAFLOR® ZERO-X 0.3

B

1 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 5.0

2 Octyl Stearate 2.0

3 Cera Alba 2.0


5 BHT 0.05

C


D




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QUALITYMANAGEMENT

SYSTEMCertification under ISO 9001:2008 for Lamberti

SpA, Unichem SpA and the foreign affiliates

in Brazil, Spain,China, India.

AEOLamberti SpA is certified

as an Authorized Economic Operator,

according to the European Community

Customs Code.

WORK SAFETYMANAGEMENT SYSTEMCertification under OHSAS

18001for Lamberti SpA.

REACHThe Lamberti Group

is committed to guarantee the registration and proper management of substances

and products marketed, as requested by REACH

Regulation(Reg. 1907/2007/

EEC).*

EFfCI GMPCertification under

EFfCI GMP (Standard for Cosmetic

Ingredients): Viguzzolo, Zanica.

RESPONSIBLE CARE

Lamberti SpA is certified under this program.

RSPO

Certification under the RSPO Supply Chain

Certification Standard, version June 2017:

Viguzzolo.

EnvironmentalManagement System

Certification under ISO 14001:2004

for Lamberti SpA and the foreign affiliate in Spain.

Lamberti certificationand more


BELIEVING IN THE LABEL, meetingthe demands of certified ingredients

Lamberti is fully committed to providing high quality materials and sustainable solutions. We operate according to the highest standards in terms of quality, safety and environmental protection, in compliance with the more accredited certifications for environmental respect. Our commitment is recognized by several certifications: we developed a list of approved chemicals deemed truly natural and conform to Cosmos and Natrue cosmetic standards.

The Halal label is gaining popularity in the cosmetics industry.Halal certification is a strict and carefully controlled process; several criteria are evaluated, from raw materials to manufacturing facilities. ESAFLOR® line is produced in a plant that fully meets all requirements for Halal Quality Control.

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Notes


For more information please contact:

Personal Care Headquarter | Via Marsala, 38/d21013 Gallarate (VA) | Italy

T + 39 0331 715 824 | [email protected]

Skincare essentials

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