Skin protection with jojoba esterswww.floratech.com

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1 WAXES & BUTTERS

PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC Reprinted from May 2020

Skin protection with jojoba estersn Tiffany Quinn MS, Robert A Harper PhD – Floratech, US

Floraesters® 20, 30, and 60, [INCI: JojobaEsters] and Floraesters K-100® Jojoba [INCI:Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) JojobaEsters (and) Water (Aqua)] are derived fromjojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis), and havebeen used in cosmetic and personal careproducts for more than 30 years. Jojoba oilis a liquid wax ester, rather than atriglyceride oil like all other botanical oils,and it possesses unique properties whichcan often be seen in its derivatives. Jojobaoil has been used in folk remedies to treatwounds, sunburn, chafed skin, and hairloss,1 and is a well-known ingredient thathas been included in skin and hair careproducts for decades.

Floraesters 20, 30, and 60 areinteresterified (not partially-hydrogenated)jojoba oil and jojoba wax, and FloraestersK-100 Jojoba is hydrolysed jojoba oil.Similar to jojoba oil, Floraesters also impartmultiple benefits to the skin such ashydration, barrier repair, and barrierprotection.2,3 Due to their derivation from awax ester, the use of jojoba esters andhydrolysed jojoba esters also allow for ‘oil-free’ claims. Floraesters 20, 30, and 60 (nowreferred to as ‘FE20’, ‘FE30’, ‘FE60’) rangefrom a soft to firm paste, are occlusive innature, and can be added to emulsionsystems to provide body and structure.Floraesters K-100 Jojoba (now referred toas ‘K-100’) is a viscous gel that is utilised toprovide water, wear, and transfer resistanceto finished formulas. It also traps smallmolecules like glycerin and glycolic acid atthe skin’s surface,4 which allows thesemolecules to function longer. This researchwill discuss how Floraesters can alsoprovide skin barrier protection from avariety of different pollutants, irritants, andsensitisers when used in skin care products.

All studies were double-blind, randomised,and carried out under controlled temperatureand humidity conditions.

Protection from skin barrierdisruptors Antipollution propertiesFE30 and K-100 were evaluated forantipollution properties at 4% and 2%,

respectively, in a very simple o/w emulsion(4.00% Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100Stearate, 3.00% Cetyl Alcohol, 2.00%Glycerin, 0.70% preservative, 0.20% XanthanGum, 0.03% Disodium EDTA, and q.s. Water) compared to a vehicleformula. For the first study,5 twice daily (AM and PM) applications of each test articlewere made to the backs of male and female subjects (n=22) for a total of fiveapplications. Test sites were then exposed topollution (i.e. tobacco smoke) for 20 minutes.Malondialdehyde (MDA) concentrationevaluations were made at baseline and postpollution exposure using gas chromatography- mass spectrometry. MDA was used as anindicator of skin lipid oxidation due topollution. The results appear in Figure 1.

The data in Figure 1 show that theinclusion of 4% FE30 or 2% K-100 resulted inthe production of up to 15% less MDA thanthe vehicle. There was no statisticalsignificance between test articles with andwithout Floraesters.

An additional study was carried outusing the same formulas using Urban Dust(i.e. atmospheric particulates)6 as thepollutant to confirm the results seen in theprevious study. Once daily applications ofeach test article were made to the volarforearms of male and female subjects(n=37) for a total of three applications.Following each test article application, thetest sites were exposed to pollution (UrbanDust) under occlusion for 24 hours using a19mm Hill Top® Chambers7 with Webril®.Transepidermal water loss (TEWL)evaluations were made using a Tewameter®

TM 3008 (in duplicate) at baseline andfollowing final patch removal. The resultsappear in Figure 2.

The data in Figure 2 show that theinclusion of 4% FE30 or 2% K-100 resulted in up to 40% less of an increase in TEWL than the vehicle (p<0.01),demonstrating a protective effect from apollutant, thereby reducing damage to theskin barrier.

Figure 1: Reduced skin surface lipid oxidationwith Floraesters.

Figure 2: Urban Dust Pollution Protection.

n A Vehicle n B Vehicle + 4% Floraesters 30n C Vehicle + 2% Floraesters K-100 Jojoba

n A Vehicle n B Vehicle + 4% Floraesters 30n C Vehicle + 2% Floraesters K-100 Jojoba

30%

25%

20%

15%

Percent Change in MDA Concentration

150%

120%

90%

60%

30%

0%

A

B

C

A

B

C

Percent Change in TEWL from Baseline

increasing skin lipid oxidation

increasing skin barrier disruption

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WAXES & BUTTERS 2

Reprinted from May 2020 PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC

Providing skin barrier protectionduring shavingFE30 (3%) and K-100 (1.5%) were evaluatedin combination and independently within ashaving cream compared to the vehicle (seeTable 1) for reducing skin barrier disfunctionafter shaving. One application of eachshaving cream test article was made to thelower legs of female subjects (n=15),followed by shaving, rinsing, and pattingdry. TEWL evaluations were made using aTewameter TM 300 (in duplicate) atbaseline (pre-shave), and 15 and 60 minutespost-shave. The results appear in Figure 3.

The data in Figure 3 show that theinclusion of 3% FE30 and/or 1.5% K-100enhanced skin barrier function (i.e. resultedin lower TEWL values) when used in ashaving cream. Both test articles containingFE30 produced statistically significantly(p<0.001) smaller increases (15 minutes) orlarger decreases (60 minutes) in TEWL ascompared to the vehicle test article.Additionally, the test article containing bothFE30 and K-100 did not result in astatistically significant increase in TEWL 15minutes post-shave, indicating thepreservation of skin barrier function.

Previous literature also supports theseresults with regard to skin barrier disruption(as measured by TEWL). The inclusion of 2%FE20, FE30, or FE60 in a lotion (o/wemulsion) prevented disruption of the skinby SLS, and improved skin barrier function(p<0.001) better than the vehicle andperformed statistically equivalently to thepositive control (5% petrolatum).9

Reducing surfactant-inducederythema A blend of FE20, FE30, and FE60 (26%) and K-100 (5%) were evaluated compared to ablend of petrolatum (30%) and dimethicone(1%) (known skin protectants) within anointment formulation for mitigation ofsodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) inducederythema, as compared to the vehicle (seeTable 1).

One application of each ointment testarticle was made to the volar forearms offemale subjects (n=13), followed by a 24-hour exposure to the skin irritant (0.3%SLS solution, under occlusion, using 19mmHill Top Chambers with Webril). Erythemameasurements using the Mexameter MX1810 (in triplicate) were taken at baseline,and 24 and 48 hours post-patch removal.The results appear in Figure 4.

The data in Figure 4 show that theinclusion of FE20, FE30, and FE60 and K-100 reduced erythema up to 70%compared to the vehicle and performedstatistically equivalent to petrolatum anddimethicone. The inclusion of FE20, FE30,and FE60 and K-100 resulted in statisticallysignificantly (p<0.05) less erythema than thevehicle 24 and 48 hours after patch

Figure 3: Skin protection while shaving with Floraesters.

Figure 4: Erythema reduced with Floraesters.

Table 1: Vehicle FormulationsShaving Cream OintmentIngredient % wt./wt. Ingredient % wt./wt.Water q.s. Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil q.s.

Stearic Acid 12.50 Glycerin 15.00

Propylene Glycol Monostearate 3.50 Ethyl Macadamiate 14.00

Butylene Glycol 2.00Glyceryl Behenate/Isostearate/Eicosadioate

5.50

Glycerin 2.00 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 4.00

Glycol Stearate (and) StearamideAMP

1.00

Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed OilEsters (and) Squalene (and)Phytosteryl Macadamiate (and)Phytosterols (and) Tocopherol

4.00

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice 1.00 Trihydroxystearin 2.80

Preservative 1.00 Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate 1.20

Triethanolamine 0.50 Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 1.00

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.40 Preservative 0.60

Polyquaternium-10 0.30 Lactic Acid q.s.

Tetrasodium EDTA 0.20

Fragrance 0.20

50%

40%

30%

20%

10%

0%

-10%

-20%

Percent Change in TEWL

(relative to baseline)

increasing barrier disruption

improving

TEWL

15 Min 60 Min

C

B

A

D

CBA

D

% Change in Erythema - Mexmeter

(relative to baseline)

increasing erythema

n A Floraesters n B Petrolatum/Dimethicone n C Vehicle

C

BA

BA

C

25 hr 48 hr

20%

15%

10%

5%

0%

n A Vehicle n B Vehicle + 1.5% Floraesters K-100 Jojoban C Vehicle + 3% Floraesters 30n D Vehicle + 1.5% Floraesters K-100 Jojoba + 3% Floraesters 30

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3 WAXES & BUTTERS

PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC Reprinted from May 2020

removal. The inclusion of petrolatum anddimethicone also resulted in directionallysignificantly (p<0.10) less erythema than thevehicle 24 hours after patch removal andstatistically significantly (p<0.05) lesserythema than the vehicle 48 hours afterpatch removal.

Reducing sensitivity to knownsensitisersA blend of FE20, FE30, and FE60 (26%)and K-100 (5%) were evaluated comparedto a blend of petrolatum (30%) anddimethicone (1%) within an ointmentformulation for mitigation of skin reactionsdue to two known sensitisers [i.e. nickel (II)sulfate heptahydrate and urushiol] ascompared to the vehicle (see Table 1). Oneapplication of each ointment test articlewas made to the forearms of male andfemale subjects (n=5 or n=9) that wereconfirmed to be sensitive (i.e. causesredness, stinging, burning, and/or itching)to nickel or urushiol (i.e. poison ivy),respectively. Test sites were then exposedto nickel or urushiol under occlusion for 48or four hours, respectively, using a FinnChamber®.11 Erythema measurementsusing the Mexameter MX 18 (in triplicate)and visual grading [on a scale of 0 - 3 (0 =none, 1 = mild, 2 = moderate, 3 = severe)]were taken at baseline, and 30 minutesand 48 hours post-patch removal. Theresults appear in Figures 5 and 6.

The data in Figure 5 show that theinclusion of FE20, FE30, and FE60 and K-100 reduced nickel induced erythema(Mexameter) up to 49% compared to theointment containing petrolatum anddimethicone (p<0.10), and also resulted indirectionally significantly (p<0.10) lesserythema (Mexameter) than the vehicle atboth evaluation time points. There were nostatistically significant differences in visualscores.

For urushiol induced erythema (Fig 6),the inclusion of FE20, FE30, and FE60 and K-100 reduced erythema (Mexameter) by78% compared to the vehicle ointment 30minutes after patch removal (p<0.10), andalso resulted in directionally significantly(p<0.10) less erythema (visual) than thevehicle ointment and the ointmentcontaining petrolatum and dimethicone 30minutes after patch removal. The inclusionof petrolatum and dimethicone alsoresulted in statistically significantly(p<0.05) less erythema (visual) than thevehicle 30 minutes after patch removal.

ConclusionJojoba esters and hydrolysed jojoba estershave many beneficial skin barrier protectionand skin barrier recovery capabilities.Studies have shown specific benefits ofFloraesters 20, 30, and 60, and FloraestersK-100 Jojoba when incorporated into

ointments, diaper rash creams, anti-itchtreatments, sunscreens, and other personalcare and OTC category products. Similar tojojoba oil, Floraesters resist oxidation betterthan most natural ingredients, making themsuitable for products requiring two to threeyear expiration dates. Floraesters 20, 30,and 60 also offer the flexibility of producttexture and feel with one INCI name (i.e.jojoba esters), and many of their propertiesare attributed to their occlusive nature.Previous studies have also demonstratedthat Floraesters 20, 30, and 60 andFloraesters K-100 Jojoba can also increaseskin hydration, increase skin smoothness,and improve consumer perception offinished products, all while providing a non-greasy emollience.2,3 The results of all ofthese studies show why Floraesters are agreat tool to build stable, functionalfinished product applications that maintainhealthy skin.

References1 Yaron A. Metabolism and physiological effects

of jojoba oil. In Wisniak J, editor. The chemistryand technology of jojoba oil. Champagne, IL: American Oil Chemists’ Society Press; 1987. p. 251-65.

PC

2 Oliphant T, Harper R. Functionality with Jojoba-Derived Ingredients – Increased SkinHydration and Consumer Preference withFloraesters. Society of Cosmetic ChemistsTechnology Showcase. December 2010. Poster.

3 Oliphant T, Harper R. Skin Barrier Protectionwith Jojoba Esters. American Academy ofDermatology 71st Annual Meeting. March2013. Poster.

4 Unpublished data. Final report available uponrequest.

5 This study was conducted by INOVAPOTEK,Pharmaceutical Research and DevelopmentLda. (Porto, Portugal).

6 Urban Dust, Standard Reference Material®

1649b, National Institute of Standards andTechnology, was purchased from Sigma-Aldrich(St. Louis, MO).

7 Hill Top Chamber® is a registered trademark ofHill Top Research, Inc. (Cincinnati, OH).

8 Tewameter® TM 300 is a product of Courage +Khazaka (Köln, Germany).

9 Quinn T and Harper R. Benefits of Jojoba-Derived Waxes and Butters. Personal CareEurope. 2019; 13 (3):41-43.

10 Mexameter® MX 18 is a product of Courage +Khazaka (Köln, Germany).

11 Finn Chamber® is a registered trademark ofAllerderm Laboratories, Inc. (Phoenix, AZ).

Figure 5: Reduced erythema with Floraesters (Nickel).

Figure 6: Reduced erythema with Floraesters (Urushiol).

n A Floraesters n B Petrolatum/Dimethicone n C Vehicle

40%

35%

30%

25%

20%

15%

10%

5%

0%% Change in Erythema

(relative to baseline)

increasing erythema

30 min 48hr 30 min 48hrVisualMexameter

Erythema Scoresincreasing erythema

2.5

2.0

1.5

1.0

0.5

0.0

A

BC

A

B

C

A

BC

A

B

C

40%

35%

30%

25%

20%

15%

10%

5%

0%

% Change in Erythema

(relative to baseline)

increasing erythema

30 min 48hr 30 min 48hrVisualMexameter

Erythema Scoresincreasing erythema

1.0

0.8

0.6

0.4

0.2

0.0

AB

C

A

BC

A

B

C

A

BC

n A Floraesters n B Petrolatum/Dimethicone n C Vehicle

*

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