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Come,Let's Stroll

The summer haoen of Nantuchet

shines again on one sltecial

December ueelpnd.BY ANNIE B. COPPS

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

CARL TREMBLAY

y first trip to the island ofNantucket was in the 1970s. My little sister was a

toddler, and my older brother was spending the summer with family friends ona ranch out West. My mother sensed that I was a little jealous ofboth the cute

baby and my big brother's adventures, so she packed us up for a long girls'weekend. We took the ferry from Hyannis and spent the weekend eating rce

cream, visiting the Whaling Museum, swimming at Children's Beach, riding bikes out to 'Scon-set, and window-shopping. I spent the return trip working on a needlepoint pattern that Momhad bought me and admiring myexcellent sunburn.

That was the first ofmany trips to an island that captured my heartdecades ago, as it has those ofthe many thousands who spill out oftheferries and fiI1 its cobblestone streets. With its beautiful beaches, out-standing sailing, vibrant shops, and waterside dining, it's so easy to fallin love with Nantucket in the summer.

But there's anotherNantucket. Come fall andwinter, it's a sleepyNewEngland village. It belongs again to the locals, and to the hardy soulswho love walking its windswept shores with no one in sight, who duckinto its warm restaurants, where everyone seems to know everyone else.

There's one special weekend in December, though, when the streetshum with visitors again. Officially it's the annual Christmas StrollWeekend-though locals call it simply "Stroll." It began 37 years ago,and the idea hasn't changed since: Give people a reason to get together,to enjoy the island, to give a big boost to its shops and restaurants, andto celebrate a place that doesn't close up when the air turns cold-it simply relaxes, and in a way its people grow warmer, Stroll brings togetherpeople in a good mood, inspired in part by festive shops decorated withhollyboughs and fanciful window displays.

opposrrE, Nontucket's cobblestoneMoin Sheet is decked forrhe holidoys.LEFr, <orolers in period.osiume oreo highlighiof ChristmosStroll Weekend.rop, o privoteresiden.egets intothe spiritofthe s€oson.

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LEFr, Indio Srre€twel<omesholidoy shopp€rs ondstroll€rs, oPPosrrE, colortulnurcrockers odd owhinsicoltou.htothe

But this is Stroll Weekend, so the year-round items share space with the annual"Festival ofTrees"-a big deal on the islandnow, with some 70 holiday evergreens deco-rared by local merchant', nonprofit organizations, and individuals. Most trees aretasreful, themed expres.ions of Christmas;

others are cheeky cultural commentaries-such as one draped with ornaments ofempty prescrip-tion bottles ofProzac and Viagra. In yet another room ofthe museum, a hush falls over the gath-ered audience as a slightly giddy group offresh-faced high-school students file up onto risers and inperfect harmonycharm the crowd with holiday favorites.

MAGIC&MEM selection

CONNECTICUT

Mystic Stroll. More tban 50 Main Streetstores serve up free food,while Santa hands out candy canes and carolers invite strollersto sing along. Decernbet 7, 6-9 p.m. 8 66 -572 -95 7 8, I 60-5 7 2- 9 57 I ;

RHODEISLAND

Christrnas in Ncwport. Nowin its 40thyearofturningthe darkdays ofDecember into the brightest ofthe year. Morethan 1,500volunteers make sur€ that every day ofthe month features somethiagspeciaf . Decembcrl-31, 401 -849- 6454 : rhr^tnarinneuparr.o,g

Downtown Holidey Festival, Providence, Peek inside a selectionofvenerable residences that open to the public on this special day.Tours, carolers, bell ringers, and a tree lighting ceremony at Ciry HalLDceembe{. 4 01 - 8 3 1 -744 0 ; ??'i. org

MASSACHUSETTS

Morblehead Christmas Walk. For the 40th annual celebration,a treeJighting ceremony and holidayparade, plus Santa arrives bylobsterboat. Additional family ev€nts throughout the weekend.Dec€mb€r2-5 ; extendcd dctiviti€s Dec€mber 11 .nd 18.7 8 1 - 63 1 -2 8 6 8 ; nafi le teadctanber. org/clris tnastt:a lA3 8. bt nlStocldridge Mdn Street et Christmrs. Named for the iconicNorman Rockwell painting, this 21st annual weekend features housetours, caroling, and a holiday concert. On Sunday,Main Streetclosesdown, antique cars find th€irparking spaces, and a live re-creationofthe painter's work takes shape. December4-5. 413-298-5200;x o c kb r i dge c b a n b e r. or g

Bcacon Hill Holiday Stroll, Boston. Chaies Streetwelcomesshoppers with free hors dbeuvres, restaurants offer specialmenus,

around

and carolers in Victorian garb give the night its soundtrack.Horse-and-buggyrides, too. December9, 6-9p.n 6 17-720-78 I 8 ;beaconbillbxsinesasociatian. arg

NEW HAMPSHIRE

Wintcr Holiday Stroll, Nashua. After the tree lighting in RailroadSquare, Santagreets kids, adults greet the outdoorbeergarden, andeverybodygets a chance to take in the local cuisine and avarietyofmusical and dance petformances. Novernber2T, 5-10 p.m.603 - 8 83 -S 700 ; doun tolnnna ! hua. orgh ttu I

Candlclight Stroll, Portsmouth. Strawbery Banke's historichomes are decorated, while hundreds ofcandles light up streetsandproperties. Deccrnbcr4-5, 11-12, 18-19; Saturdeys 5-9p.m.,Sundeye 4-8 p.m. (cell orvisit the Web site for pricing).Part ofVintage Christnas in Portsmouth, including live enter-tainment, operabroadcasts, films, and more at TheMusic Hall.6 03 - 43 3 -1 1 00, strawberyban Ae. ary ; 603 - 4 3 6 -24 00, tle n us n ba I /. a rgo i n ta ge t br ; ! t na i n t. o I I

VERMONT

Wintcr Wassail W€ekend, Woodstock. Regarded as one ofthestate's dont-miss weekends, highlights include a holidry horse parade,a tour ofhistoric homes, streets filled with singers, and Billings Farm&Museum dressed in 19th-century Christmas finery DeccnbcrlO-12 - 8 8 8 - 49 6 - 63 7 8, 802 -457- 3 5 5 5 ; !,oa d' ta&lt..om/@ait d;l

MA INF

Christrnas Prelude, Kennebunkport, Since 1982, this seacoasttowobecom€s a winter v/onderland each December. Santa arrivesvia lobstet boat; summershops re-open andglisten. Dccembcr2-12.207-9 67-0 8 57 : ctis tnasorehde. ton

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SontoondMrs Clousmok€rheirwoyolongMoin St,e€t the old,foshioned woy. BErow, rwolittle 9i.ls pouse foro mohent before heodingothovisirwirh Old 5r. Nick.

faccs of the youngest toddlcrs, theadults not embarrasscd to be f'eclirrgthis happy.

Most shops and rcstaurxnts are hap-pily open, too, rnd t-cature holidavthemc windorv dccorations, one morecxtravagant than the next: Christmastrecs made ofscallop shells, wreathsand ribbons of every sort. The welcoming aroma of hot toddies andwarm cinnamon from frcshly bakedi,rokic. r'rrft' ovcr u.. lt'. a charis-matic way to cxperience a little bit ofan old ihshioned Christmas.

And, if vou need a practicalexcuse, you can get some early shopping done without going to a singlemall. Nantucket's rctailers krok forward to this big pusl.r to get throughthe rest of the long winter season,and local craftcrs get into the actwith shows and demonstrations. Arthc Preservation Institute, St. Paul'sChu rt h. .rnd Sr. Mrry s Churih. arrisans are lined up in rows, displayinghandcrafts ranging from ornaments

and grecting cards to jewelry andclothing to foods and toys. It's hardnot to spend, whether you're look_ing for a srocking stufler carrying a

rcmlnocrot a lun weckend or a mulcexquisite purchase to last a lifetime.

Goodwill goes only so far, ofcourse. All that shopping and smil-rng can ccrrainly build up an eppetite-and i.landers don r forger howto make great foodwhen the days turncolder. In the parkinglot ofthe GrandUnion market, right off Old South

NOvEMBER I DEcEMBER 20Io

THEGUIDE I tratsel

LEFr, Indio St.eetwelcomesholidoy shoppersondstrollers. oPPosrrE. colorful n urcrockers odd o

whinsicoltouchtotheWholins Museuh's

But this is Stroll Weekend, so the year-round items share space with the annual"Festival ofTrees"-a big deal on the islandnow, with some 70 holiday evergreens deco-rated by local merchants. nonprofit orga-nizations, and individuals. Most trees are

tasteful, themed expressions of Christmas;others are cheeky cultural commentaries-such as one draped with ornaments of empty prescrip-tion bottles ofProzac and Viagra. In yet another room ofthe museum, a hush falls over the gath-ered audience as a slightly giddy group offresh-faced high-school students file up onto risers and inperfect harmonycharm the crowd with holiday favorites.

MAGIC & MEMORIES a selection of festiT)ities around tbe rcprcn

CONNECTICUT

Mystic Stroll. More than 50 Main Street stores sewe up free food,while Santa hands out candycanes and carolers invite strollersto sing along. Dccember 7,6-9 prrr.I66-572-9578, I60-572-9578;

RHODEISLAND

Chdstrnas in Ncwport. Now in its 40th year ofturning the darkdays ofDecemberinto the brightest ofthe year. More than 1,500volunteers make sure that every day ofthe month features somethingspecial. Decembcr 1-31 . 401-849-6454; chit/na'inn u?ort.org

Downtown Holiday Festival, Providence. Peek inside a selection

ofvenerable residences that open to the public on this special day.

Tours, carolers, bell ringers, and a tree lighting ceremony at City Hall.Dccembet 4. 4 01 - I 3 I -74 40 ; ??'ri. otg

MASSACHUSETTS

Morblchead Christmas Walk. For the 40th annual celebration,

a tree{ighting ceremony and holiday parade, plus Santa arrives bylobster boat. Additional family events throughout thewe€kend.D€cember 2-5; €xtended dctivitica D€ccmbcr 11 and 18.

7 8 1 - 63 1 -28 6 8 ; rnarb leh eadc bamber. ort/chrhtffi a$!alL3 8. I tnl

Stockbridge Main Street rt Christm$. Named for the iconicNorman Rockwellpainting, this 21st annual weekend features house

tours, caroling, and aholidayconcert. On Sunday, Main Street closes

down, antiqu€ cars find their parking spaces, and a Iive re-creationofthe painter'sworktakes shape. Dccember4-5. 41 3 -298-5200;r ta t A b r i d ge fi am b c r. olg

Bcacon Hill Holiday Srmll, Boston. Charles Street welcomes

shoppers with free hors dbeuvres, restaurants offer specialmenus,

and carolers in Victorian garb give the night its soundtrack.Horse-and-buggyrides, too. Decembcr9, 6-9p.m. 6 17-720-7888 ;be aconl il lbutine sassa ciation. org

NEW HAMPSHIRE

Winter Holiday Stroll, Nrshur. After the tree lighting in RailroadSquare, Santa greets kids, adults greet the outdoor beergarden, andeverybody gets a chance to take in the local cuisine and a variety ofmusical and dance performances. November2T,5-10 p.m.603 - 8 8 3 -5 700 ; dolDn tolDnnas bua.org/s tra I I

CondlclightStroll, Portsmouth. StrawberyBanket historichomes are decorated, while hundreds ofcandles lightup streets

and properties. Dcccmb er 4-5,11'12,1a'!9;Saturdeys 5-9 p.m.,Sundoys 4-8 p.m. (call orvisit the Web site for pricing),Part ofVintege Christmas in Portemouth, including live entertainment, operabroadcasts, films, and more atThe Music Hall.603 -43 3 -1 100,' tralo b'rybante.org; 603 -43 6 -2 40 0, tl)e nus;r bal or&,

oin t agc c br i t na sn t. or I

VERMONTWintcrWassailWeekend, Woodstock. Regarded as one ofthestate's dont-missweekends, highlights include a holiday horse parade,a tour ofhistorichomes, streets filledwith singers, and Billings Farm&Museum dressed in l9th-centuryChristmas finery December10-12. 88 8 - 4 9 6 - 63 7 8, 802-4 57- 3 5 5 5 ; uo adstotlt nn /aardil

iuerNrChristmas Prelude, Kennebunkport. Since 1982, this seacoast

town becomes a winterwonderland each December. Santa arrivesvialobsterboat; summershops re-open and glisten. Dccembcr2-l2.2 07-967-08 57 : chi ttnastrc lude. ton

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