Simple Canoe

8/13/2019 Simple Canoe

1/20

There have been a few canoe like objects put up on instructables but this one is

really a pirougue- or flat bottom canoe. There is actually a lot of theory on boats

like this one but the basic idea is you take two planks, stick them together at the

ends with a frame or two in the middle, fill in the hole in the bottom with anotherplank and then add decks and thwarts and yokes and outriggers and sails and

whatever else you feel like.

This boat is made from one sheet of 4mm marine ply for the sides, one sheet of

6mm marine ply, for the bottom and some sticks, firbreglass and epoxy to stop

the thing from falling apart and to give yourself somewhere moderately

comfortable to sit.

Most of the layout for this example comes from free sources on the web which I

will include reference to where I deem I feel like it. but the main one is the lazy

weekend canoe from the Toledo Community Boathouse

http://www.toledocommunityboathouse.com/plans.htm

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(http://www.toledocommunityboathouse.com/plans.htm)

This design is 6/7 of a Lazy weekend canoe, being 12 rather than 14 inches high

and built using only 2 sheets of plywood instead of 3.

The canoe is a basic plan intended for two people and fishing gear on calm

waters. Emergency floatation will be pool noodles tied under the seats and a

custom made beanbag cussion for the center. The back seat has a low back rest

but the front is intended to be used in reverse when paddled single handed.

In this layout it is best propelled by two people with one ended paddles paddling

one side each. A two ended paddle could be used but to clear the sides easily

you might need to make an extra long one. "Real" two ended paddlers will fit the

length of the paddle to the person rather than the boat, which is fine till you are

paddling something too wide for how you are tall. More on this after water trials.

If you like this instructables don't forget to vote for it in the contests.

This is the perfect boat to use for your uke'n'paddle.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Ukenpaddle

Step 1: Buy some plywood

Buying plywood is one of the trickiest steps:

Marine plywood should be OK but sometimes isn't;

Exterior or structural plywood should be kind of OK but may have some bits

that may require patching later (voids)and may not be as pretty and may

have a good and a bad side;

Interior or - non-structural plywood is probably not to be trusted.

Plywood also comes graded by the faces

A = A really excellent face

B = Nice but might be small imperfections

C = Could be better - small filled holes allowableD = Don't go there girlfriend, or Decorative.

AA is usually sold as marine ply.

ACX or BCX (with the X standing for exterior) has frequently been used for

making boats

My plywood was 2440 by 1220 mm, which is so close to 8 foot by 4 foot given

my accuracy we may as well call them 8 by 4 sheets.

Step 2: CAD - Cardboard aided design

See More (/tag/type-id/?q=)

How to row a canoe for

fishing or excercise, the

cheap, fast row boat

(/id/How-to-row-a-canoe-

Dugout Canoe (/id/Dugout-

Canoe/)

by Matin (/member/Matin/)

outrigger canoe with

freestanding mast

(/id/outrigger-canoe-

with-freestanding-mast/)


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This step may be skipped by the skilled craftsman or the supremely

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overconfident fool, but it pays to get some cardboard and make a test scale

model so you can see how it all goes together.

Take two (scale) 8 by 4 sheets (mine are one mm to the inch) cut one into 4

equal strips to make the sides.

Cut the other one on an even diagonal to make the bottom and make your test

model. - read ahead for dimensions .

This little cardboard model is showing me how I will be happy with the bottom

being 32 inches wide using one sheet of cardboard (I mean plywood) cut on the

diagonal.

Step 3: Make plywood sides

Not much to this - cut the sheet of plywood for the sides in half , stack them on

top of each other cut in half again

stack these on top and cut a 4 inch diagonal off the end of all 4 at once. Any

length around 4 - 12 inches will give you a workable boat, the more you take off

the more your boat will turn in (and as a consequence up) at the ends.

If your plywood has a good side and a bad side make sure you lay them so you

can make a boat with all the good side facing either in side or outside.

Join them in the middle using your favoured plywood joining method. I used a

Bolger/ Payson fibreglass joint where wet fibreglass is lain on the floor on top of

a sheet of baking paper on top of a sheet of plastic on top of a piece of carpet. I

have never had it happen to me but I am assuming that having plywood epoxied

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to your garage floor is not fun. The two pieces to be joined are placed carefully

on top and more fiberglass is added to the top. More baking paper plastic, a bit

of a flat board and a heavy toolbox or similar weight to keep it flat. The experts

recommend a 3 inch strip of fiberglass.

A scarf joint or a reinforced butt join with a piece of plywood are the other

popular alternatives

see http://www.toledocommunityboathouse.com/plans/joints/index.htm for how

to do them.

Step 4: Make a bottom bit

After much fiddling about I cut a diagonal in the sheet of plywood starting from

about six inches in from the corner along the short side to about six inches from

the opposite corner, or thereabouts. Then join the two pieces in the middle

using a suitable join - if making a butt join try and make it central and allow for

clearance at the sides.

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I did this after making the sides and sticking them to the temporary frame but a

better time would have been roughly at the same time as making the sides so

things will be glued up and ready to go at more or less the same time.

I forgot to take pictures so here is a cardboard model layout

Step 5: Make a central frame (and possibly some end ones)

Make a mid form

There is a little bit of math here that kind of gives you your rocker, or the amount

of curve in the bottom and top of the boat. All of this is far better explained in

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/01/articles/boatbuilding/2/part2.htm

Here is my condensed explanation. Because we assume that the side of the

boat is a cylindrical section, the outside corner points of the panel when viewed

from front on is considered a right angle and we can square some hippos or

something to work out that if the side panel is 12 inches and we want to make a

boat with a 32 inch wide bottom and give ourselves 5 inches of rocker, Mr

Pythagoras tells us that if we want the height from the bottom to be 5 and the

other side is 16 (half of 32) then the hippo side is the square root of 5 squared

plus 16 squared which is 16.763 inches and that 12 times 5 divided by 16.763

gives us the extra wide we need at the top to make our bottom go up 5 at the

ends, which is a tad over three and a half inches. I am going to call it three and

a half because I know this is that fancy book learning that gets you into trouble

and makes your head hurt and wood also forms cones and parabolic splines as

well as cylinders and never goes where you tell it anyway.

Why 5? Simple because I dummied up something similar in the hulls program

and that is what it told me I kind of needed for something about this size so the

stems would just kiss the water with 500 lb aboard evenly distributed. 5 inches is

also conveniently about the width of a standard house brick/paver. The lazy

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weekend canoe, which is two inches higher than this one also has a rocker of 6

inches.

This frame is made from two bits of scrap wood attached to a piece of Styrofoam

that I had laying around. Cardboard would have been just as good, if not better.

In case you missed the maths and jumped to the end- it is 32 inches across the

bottom and each end is three and a half inches longer than the bottom making

32 + 7 = 39 inches. Make sure the angles on both sides are the same.

Step 6: Join the sides to the frame(s) and join sides at ends

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Join the sides to the frame(s) and join sides at ends.

Depending on how you are making the boat the frames might be temporary like

mine is or more permanent.

Stitching or duct taping the ends together in preparation for filleting and

fiberglass is acceptable but I chose the stem method, measuring the angle with

my bevel guage to be carved with my plane. Those with a table saw to do such

things can dial in about 40 degrees (or a couple of passes at 20 degrees). My

stems stuck out a little way top and bottom initially and were glued in with

titebond3 and stainless steel screws (an Aldi bulk buy).

Step 7: Add the gunwales (strips of wood along top)

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If you have more frames than I do and you use stiffer plywood you may not need

to add the gunwales at this point and can go straight to tacking the bottom on

but my sides were so floppy I had difficulty keeping it all together so the

gunwales were added. To make the gunwales easier to attach I pre- bent them

by making them wet and perching them between two supports and weighted

them down for a few days.

For convenience I used my router to add six inch long finger/hook holds every

six inches or so to the underside of the gunwale. This is a personal

preference. Full length or no gaps are equally acceptable. In particular if you are

going to store the boat upside down outside do not add the finger/hook holds as

they will catch water and debris and will promote rot.

Here is the point where you take the ubiquitous - Here are all the clamps I own

holding my gunwales on photo.

Step 8: Bung the top on the bottom.

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de 20 22-12-13 2


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A number of plans or ways of building boats and canoes have acurately laid out

panels stitched together in accurate layout patterns or have solid frames

arranged around something called a strongback. Because I had a degree of

laziness and an accurate pair of pavers I used something I call a flat floor.

Between the flat floor and the bottom panel I arranged spacers to maintain thecurve of the floor panel to match the curve of the bottom edge of the side

panels. you can use just about anything for this from the dried shrivelled hearts

of your enemies to a roll of really soft toilet paper. I used two accurate 5 inch

wide pavers for each end, some random scraps of 2 by 4 and 2 by 1, some

empty creme caramel containers and a roll of really soft toilet paper. - Always

have a roll of really soft toilet paper in your workshop.

When you are happy with the evenness of the sides and the gracefulness of the

curves of your boat tack glue the bottom in place - I used the epoxy I was going

to use in the end but I have heard of people using everything from 5 minute

epoxy to hot glue to drywall screws to hold things in place. Having a center line

on the floor and on the frame helps keep everything lined up.

Once everything was firmly stuck together I removed that bottom brace and

broke out some of that polystyrene, leaving the top brace in place for the

moment.

Step 9: Fillet and fiberglass tape

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Now we have a nice open clean line we can add filler to our epoxy, make a

smooth 1/2 inch radius fillet along the bottom edge and fibreglass over the top. I

used epoxy but Bondo and polyester resin are probably acceptable for a boat of

this ilk.

After I glassed it I noticed the left and right sides were not quite as even as I

thought. Nevermind this will probably make it tend to turn in one direction or

another, making it easier to do a J stroke ;)

Step 10: Flip over and trim off the excess.

Now we flip it over and trim off the excess. I tried using a flush cut saw

attatchment, on my multi-tool but that was too slow so I tried a manual flush cut

saw which I can not get to go parallel for me. I then noticed the plywood was

6mm, so I resorted to my router to which I attached a 1/4 inch roundover bit

(=6.4mm) which worked really really well - untill the melting epoxy got into the

guide bearing and it burned out, creating a small mess. A 10mm roundover bit

was then resorted to and the edges were then cleaned up with a plane and

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sanded smooth.

A jig saw with the base tilted to about 30 degrees so it did not hit the side of the

boat would also have worked nicely and perhaps not created as much sawdust.

Step 11: Glass the outside edges

Due to the mishap with the router a bit more epoxy with filler was required but

apart from those places the epoxy went on the sides swimmingly, which is more

than I can say for the stems, which were decidedly messy

Step 12: Add a keel strip

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Glue and clamp down a keel strip- put some screws through the bottom to make

it clamp to the floor more evenly. Remembering to have a center line was a big

bonus here.

Step 13: Add front and rear decks and bracing

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Now we re-use the offcuts from the sides to make the front and rear decks. We

first use the offcuts to mark the largest area we can cover then we start fitting

angles. This is a lot easier than it might look to the layman. Firstly the angle of

the top is drawn in by having the piece of wood upside down. we then flip it over

and draw the angle of the side up, using a simple strait edge. Align your saw to

both angles and presto - a neatly fitted piece of wood. Because we used epoxy

a bit of leeway is acceptable and the piece of masking tape was all the clamping

pressure we needed to hold it in place.

At the bow (front end) I am putting a bit more reinforcing to take a tow bar so I

can tow it behind a bike. and as a strap down point.

Step 14: Add seats

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The side seat supports are ten inches apart and the front of the aft seat starts 36

inches back from the center and the rear of the front seat starts 28 inches from

the center. I took these measurements and layout from the lazy weekend canoe.

There are formulas for working out the spacing of canoe seats if you have the

weight of your intended occupants and if you have the inclination, feel free to

Google them.

The side supports are bevelled so that the seat horizontals will be aligned with

them. I glued the sides with temporary braces clamped to them to keep them

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aligned. I made these temporary braces long enough so I could trim them to

make the permanent braces. When putting the permanent braces in ensure you

either make them butt securely against the side or (unlike me) leave just enough

room to get a paint brush into the gap to seal the end grain. Pre-sealing with

epoxy would be another good option.

The height of the notional front of the seat was set as 8 inches from the floor and

the height of the back was set using a spirit level while the canoe was kept level

with my precision 5 inch wide pavers.

You might notice I replaced the remainder of that temporary center frame with a

cross piece (or yoke). This is adds structural integrity and makes a useful point

to carry the canoe upside down on your shoulders. If I had been thinking ahead

my temporary frame might have had a permanent element.

Step 15: Add seat slats

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Post Comment

2 days ago Reply (C1MB9T1HPEG7ULT)

knocked up from scraps for the purpose.

Alternatively you could go with any other seating arrangement you chose

including; plywood ; weaving a seat into the frame; an old lawn chair, etc etc.

Step 16: Sand and paint before putting in the water

Trim off excess wood

Sand and paint before putting in water.

vhogarth726 (/member/vhogarth726/)says:

how would you go about adding a sail?

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titchtheclown (/member/titchtheclown/)(author) in reply to vhogarth726

The West Mersey Duck punt is a sail

boat with very similar dimensions.

http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/blogs

/build-a-duck-punt-the-best-fun-

an-old-man-can-have-lying-down/

This makes it a one person layingdown sail boat which means it does

not carry as much weight so needs

less rocker so the sides are more

vertical but by my reading that is

about all the difference in the hull.

There are great plans available for

them with thole pins and old style

home build-able sail configuration

or Mik Storer's drop in rig

http://www.storerboatplans.com

/Canoebits/KayakRig.html

Sailing canoes of this size looks to me

like a great way to have fun in as well

as on the water.

Add outriggers and lots of reserve

buoyancy as well if you feel the need

for safety.

dndr (/member/dndr/)says:

!f you have plans for a stand up paddleboard that would be an awesome share!

titchtheclown (/member/titchtheclown/)(author) in reply to dndr

I have not made one personally but

there are people who have used the

kayak foundry software to generate

forms for building using strip build

techniques, which is a step above what

I have done. Check out their forum for

a few examples.

http://www.blueheronkayaks.com

/phpBB2/index.php

Alternatively I have heard of things as

simple as a long box with a slight bit of

rocker put into the bottom being built

and used.

dndr (/member/dndr/)says:

Great instructable indeed. i've made a portuguese Style dinghy but i didnt finish

the paint job eigther so i didnt share it yet. Your instructable gave me courage and

i'll share it anyway. i was planning to make a simple canoe as a winter/indoor

project which Will be ready for the coming spring and whole summer of course.


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(/member

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2 days ago Reply (CNEMNGVHPEG7VXL)

(/member

/scoot440/)

3 days ago Reply (C08G122HPCLL36Q)

This instructable would be very helpful. Thanks...

tennesseecherokee (/member/tennesseecherokee/)says:

You have a great deal of courage to

undertake this project. Thank you for

sharing it with us & have a Merry Christmas.

scoot440 (/member/scoot440/)says:

Beautiful boat! Thank you for sharing this!

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