Shouf Biosphere Reserve_Field Guide and Information Booklet

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Since 2009 the Italian Development Cooperation has taken a special interestin the activities of the Shouf Biosphere Reserve - in particular supporting thedevelopment of stronger capacity for the management and the protection of itsnatural resources. The Shouf Biosphere and the Italian Development Cooperationalso worked on a visibility campaign, promotional events, and tourist services.

This guide is one of the many outputs of this successful partnership


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Compiled by: Wissam Khalil and Nizar Hani

Reviewed by: Faisal Abu-Izzeddin and Pascal Abdallah

Photographs: Reserve team, Alaa Monzer, Dalia Khamisiand Eddy ChouryAdministration: Kamal Abou Assi and Mirna Riman

Biodiversity chapter prepared by: Riad Sadik (Reptiles andAmphibians), Mounir Abi Said (Mammals), Ghassan Jaradi(Birds), Nabil Nemer (Butterflies and Insects), CherineYazbeck (People Chapter)

Graphic design & layout:Rima Rifai, [email protected]

Printing: Chemaly & Chemaly Printing Press (s.a.l.),www.chemaly.com

Copyright Shouf Biosphere Reserve - Lebanon

First edition2014

ISBN978-9953-0-2727-2

All rights reserved. No part of this book may bereproduced or transmitted in any form withoutpermission in writing from the Shouf Biosphere Reserve.

The sole responsibility for the content of thispublication lies with the Shouf Biosphere Reserve. Itdoes not necessarily reflect the opinion of the ItalianCooperation or the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

Telfax+961 5 350 250/150, [email protected],www.shoufcedar.org


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4 5Lebanon and the Cedar Tree

The Shouf Biosphere Reserve

Flora and Fauna of the Reserve

Insects in the Reserve

Surrounding Villages

Historic Sites

People of the Reserve

Visiting the Reserve

Hiking in the Reserve

Other Activities

Eco-Tourism Packages

Where to Stay

Where to Eat

Useful Contacts

The Shouf Biosphere Reserve is the largest na-ture reserve in Lebanon covering extensive ar-eas of Mount Lebanon. It is also the home to a

dedicated group of men and women who protect andmanage an area of outstanding natural beauty.

This field guide provides the visitor with a broad intro-duction to the Shouf Biosphere Reserve and serves asa guide for hikers, bikers, nature lovers, students, andpeople escaping the crowded life of big cities. It shedslight on the remarkable biodiversity, beauty, and culturalheritage of the Reserve and introduces the visitor to amore responsible and sustainable form of ecotourism.

The Shouf Biosphere Reserve, the surrounding townsand villages, restaurants, hotels and guesthouses arekeen to provide the visitor with a clean environmentand an entertaining experience. A combination ofnatural beauty and generous hospitality once made theShouf region of Lebanon famous and by conservingthese qualities we are confident that it will remain aprimary tourist destination in the future.

Contents Preface

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Lebanon is a small and beautiful country on the Eastern

shore of the Mediterranean Sea. Situated at the crossroads

of Asia, Europe and Africa, it has served as a meeting point

for many civilizations for thousands of years. Its coast line is 225

kilometers (150 miles) long with an average inland width of about

45 kilometers (30 miles). The total area of the country is 10,452 sq.

kilometers (4,500 sq. miles).

LEBANONandThe Cedar Tree


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The geography of the country consists of a coastal plain, twoparallel north/south mountain ranges (Mount Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon), and the Bekaa valley hemmed in between the

mountain ranges. The highest peaks are: Qornet Al-Saouda in thenorth of Mount Lebanon (3,087 meters) and Jabal el Chaikh in the south(2,814 meters). It is bordered in the north and east by Syria and in the southby Palestine. Along the coast lie the cities of Beirut, Tripoli, Byblos, Sidon,and Tyre.

Lebanon enjoys a pleasant Mediterranean climate with about 300 sunnydays per year. Winter is mild on the coast and snowy in the mountainswhile summer is hot on the coast and cool in the mountains. In earlyspring it is possible to ski and swim on the same day.

The cedar forests of Lebanon enjoy the unique distinction of being theoldest documented forests in history and feature prominently in the ear-liest written records of the Sumerians in the third millennium BC. Thefamous Epic of Gilgamesh describes the cedar forests of Lebanon as beingthousands of leagues long.

However it was the Phoenicians, along the coast of present-day Lebanonand from such ancient cities as Byblos, Tyre and Sidon, who became theprincipal dealers in cedar wood. Quantities of cedar and pine timber weremade into rafts and towed from Byblos to Egypt as early as 2800 BC.During the periods when Egypt controlled Byblos much of the timberexported was in the form of tribute. The primary use of cedar wood wasin building ships, boats, temples, and furniture.

Later the Babylonians took a similar interest in the cedars and used themin building the fabled city of Babylon. The cedars of Lebanon featureprominently in the texts of the Old Testament. The Bible records in somedetail how King Solomon asked King Hiram of Tyre to cut and transportvast quantities of cedar wood for building his temple and palace inJerusalem.

In the 6thcentury BC, Persian control of the Phoenician ports provided thePersians with the means of assembling a navy for use against their en-emies the Greeks who embarrassed the Persians with their mobility in theMediterranean.

LEBANONandThe Cedar Tree


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A few centuries later the expansion of the Roman Empire into Syria andLebanon had a detrimental effect on the cedars until the Roman EmperorHadrian installed markers around the boundary of the remaining forestsand declared them an Imperial Domain. A few of these markers havebeen preserved and held in museum collections.

During the early years of the 20 thcentury, the Ottoman Turks deforestedall of the cedars growing within easy transport to the Hijaz railway toprovide fuel for wood-burning engines. Only the highest and mostremote forests escaped damage.

In modern day Lebanon the legendary cedar is still revered and remainsprominent in the minds of all Lebanese. The cedar is featured on thenational flag, the national airline, government logos, the Lebanese

currency, and innumerable commercial logos. It is the feature of books,poetry, post cards, posters, and art. The cedars of Lebanon are animportant part of the cultural heritage of the country.

During the past decade special attention was paid in Lebanon to the en-vironment, and an effort was made to protect endangered plants andanimals and conserve their habitats. Currently there are 3 UNESCO Bio-sphere Reserves and 14 Nature Reserves established in Lebanon, eachwith its distinct character and natural beauty.

MEMOIRS OF A CEDARa history of deforestationa future of conservation, by Faisal Abu-Izzeddin

This book explores the fascinating history of thisiconic tree and is available at all the Reserveentrances and major bookstores in Beirut


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Al-Shouf Cedar Nature Reserve/Shouf Biosphere Reserve

Jabal Moussa Biosphere Reserve

Jabal Rihan Biosphere Reserve

Bentael Nature Reserve

Horsh Ehden Nature Reserve

Palm Islands Nature Reserve

Tannourine Cedars Forest Nature Reserve

Tyre Coast Nature Reserve

Yammouneh Nature Reserve

Shnaniir Nature Reserve

Wadi al Hujair Nature Reserve

Ramia Nature Reserve

Beitlif Nature Reserve

Kafra Nature Reserve

Dibil Nature ReserveJaje Cedar Nature Reserve

For more information about these nature reserves pleasevisit the Ministry of Environment website: www.moe.gov.lb


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Location of nature reserves


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The ShoufBiosphereReserve


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The Al-Shouf Cedar Nature Reserve was established by LawNo.532 on July 29, 1996, and is managed by an Appointed Pro-tected Area Committee reporting to the Ministry of Environment.

In 2005 UNESCO declared the Al-Shouf Nature Reserve and its sur-rounding 22 villages as the Shouf Biosphere Reserve in recognition of itssuccess in sharing the management and rewards of conservation with thelocal community.

The Shouf Biosphere Reserve (SBR) stretches from Dahr el Baidar in thenorth to Niha Mountain in the south along Lebanons western mountainrange. It is blanketed with oak forests on its north-eastern slopes and ju-niper and oak forests on its south-eastern slopes. However, the Reservesmost famous attraction are its three magnificent cedar forests of Barouk,Ain Zhalta/Bmohary, and Maasser el Chouf located exclusively on thewestern slopes of the mountain. These forests account for a quarter of theremaining cedars of Lebanon.

From the summit of the Shouf Biosphere Reserve there is a panoramicview of the countryside: north to the peaks of Kneiseh and Sannine, southto Niha and the fortress of Fakhreddine, east to the Bekaa valley, theAmmiq wetland and Qaraoun Lake, and west to the Mediterranean Sea.

The goal of the Shouf Biosphere Reserve is to fulfill three basic functions:1. Conserve flora and fauna within the Reserve2.Generate income activities for villagers3. Support research, monitoring, education, and information related tonatural resources.

To facilitate management, the SBR is divided into three zones - the corezone, the buffer zone and the development zone.

The Core Zone consists of the protected areas of Al-Shouf CedarReserve (Law 532) and private lands. (93 sq Km)

The Buffer Zone consists of municipal lands incorporated into the Al-Shouf Cedar Reserve (Law 532), and private lands. (86 sq Km)

The Development Zone consists mostly of private lands, municipallands, and religious trusts (Awqaf). (320 sq Km)

The villages surrounding the Biosphere Reserve are: Niha, Jbaa, Mrosti,Khreibeh, Baadaran, Maasser el Chouf, Batloun, Barouk, Ain Zhalta andBmohray, Ain Dara, Qab Elias, Ammiq, Deir Tahnich, Aana, Kefraya, KherbitQanafar, Ain Zebde, Saghbine, Bab Marea, Aitanit and Machghara.

Background

The core zone

The buffer zone

The development zone

Management zones of theShouf Biosphere Reserve

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Location

The Shouf Biosphere Reserve is situated in the middle of Lebanonswestern mountain range and stretches from Dahr el Baidar in the north toMount Niha in the south. It includes (from north to south): Dahr el Baidar(1558 meters), Jabal el Barouk (1900 meters), Jabal Niha (1800 meters), andTaoumatt Niha (1674 meters).

Geology

The various geological layers of the Shouf Biosphere Reserve go back tothe Jurassic period (199 - 150 million years) and Cretaceous period (145 -70 million years). Most of the rocks are limestone except for a few layersof basalt located south and southeast of Niha. The floor of the Bekaavalley, between the Lebanon and the Anti-Lebanon mountain ranges,consists of a layer of deep sediment and rich arable soil that washed downfrom the surrounding mountains.

Fossils

The limestone layers of the Cretaceous and the Jurassic are very rich infossils because they are composed of the sediments from the bottom ofthe oceans. Near the peaks the Jurassic layer contains coral and sponge

PhysicalSetting

beds (often transformed into silica), and bivalves. The sandstone of theCretaceous includes plant remains and occasional pieces of amber that israther dull or cracked and often contains insects.

Hydrology

Precipitation in the source of both surface water (streams and rivers) andgroundwater (springs and aquifers). Most of the precipitation occurs asrain, however snow falls every winter at the upper elevations.

Villages surrounding theShouf Biosphere Reserve

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A large proportion of the exposed surface rock in the Barouk mountainregion is cavernous, f issured, and broken limestone. Its porousness makesit very permeable and water percolates down through the various rockformations and feeds many large springs that surface at the point of inter-section between the sandstone and the limestone layers. The result is thatthe majority of the springs arise at a similar altitude (the water line) onboth the western and eastern slopes of Mount Barouk and Mount Niha.Such springs help maintain stream-flow during the dry season from Aprilto November. The main springs are:

Nabe el Safa (

): located in Ain ZhaltaNabe el Barouk (): in the Barouk villageNabe Mershed (): situated in Ain Qani near MoukhtaraNabe Azibeh (): located near the city of JezzineNabe Abed ): located in the upper lands of AmmiqNabe Ammiq (

): located near the wetland


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Flora & Faunaof the Reserve

Lebanon is known throughout the Mediterranean region for its

unique climate and microclimates, its vast array of geo-

morphological regions, and its wealth of biodiversity that

include a number of endemic plants and animals.

The Shouf Biosphere Reserve is home to 32 species of wildmammals, 275 species of birds, 31 species of reptiles and

amphibians, and 520 species of plants of which 14 are considered

rare at the national level, 30 have a high economic potential as

medicines, and 50 are edible or aromatic.


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Flora of theReserve

The Shouf Biosphere Reserve harbors a rich flora with about 520species of plants. Many of these plants are medicinal, some areedible, and others are aromatic. The Reserve is home to 25

internationally and nationally threatened plants; 48 plants endemic toLebanon or the Syria/Lebanon/Turkey area; 14 rare plants; and 214 plantsthat are restricted to the Eastern Mediterranean or Middle East area.

The Shouf Biosphere Reserve is most famous for its large and selfpropagating stands of Lebanese cedar (Cedrus libani). The cedar is ahighly symbolic conifer, and one of the most cited plants in history,religion, and mythology. The Reserve represents the natural southernlimit of this tree and hosts about 620 hectares of cedar forests that arelargely confined to the steeper and less accessible areas. Nowadays thecedar forests, protected from overgrazing and human interference, areshowing clear signs of natural regeneration.

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CesalpiniaceaeCercis siliquastrum L.

Judas treeArbre de Jude

Distribution:South Europe, West Asiaand Mediterranean RegionRange in Lebanon: 0 1200m abovesea levelFlowering time: February - April

RosaceaeCrataegus azarolus L.Common azaroleAzerolier

Distribution:South Europe, Turkey,Cyprus, Caucasus, Iraq, Iran, Syria,Lebanon and PalestineRange in Lebanon: 0-1600 m abovesea levelFlowering time: March May

RosaceaeCrataegus monogyna Jacqu.

One-styled hawthornAubpine un style

Distribution:Europe, North Africa,West Asia and North West IndiaRange in Lebanon: 0-1300 m abovesea levelFlowering time: March - May.

CupressaceaeJuniperus excelsa M.B.Grecian juniperGenvrier lev

Distribution:Balkan andMediterranean RegionRange in Lebanon: 1500-2800m abovesea levelFlowering time: Spring

AceraceaeAcer tauricolum Boiss. and Bal.Taurus mapleErable du Taurus

Distribution: East MediterraneanRegion.Range in Lebanon: 1000-1900 mabove sea levelFlowering time: Spring

EricaceaeArbutus andrachne L.Oriental strawberry-treeArbousier dOrient

Distribution: Mediterranean Regionand around Black SeaRange in Lebanon: 500-1500m above

sea level, woodlandsFlowering time: December - March

PinaceaeCedrus libani L.Cedar of LebanonCdre du Liban

Distribution:Lebanon, Syria,South TurkeyRange in Lebanon:1200-1900m abovesea levelMain forests:Jaje, Tannourine NatureReserve, Bcharre, Hadath El-Jebbeh,Ehden Nature Reserve, Donnieh,Swasseh, Karm-el Mohr, Karm-elNjass, QuammouaFlowering time: Autumn

Trees andShrubs


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FagaceaeQuercus calliprinos Webb.

Kermes oakChne kerms

Distribution:Turkey, Syria, Lebanonand PalestineRange in Lebanon: 0-1500m abovesea levelFlowering time: February - April

FagaceaeQuercus infectoria Oliv.Cyprus oakChne tinctorial

Distribution:Mediterranean RegionRange in Lebanon: 500-1500m abovesea levelFlowering time: March - April

AnacardiaceaeRhus coriaria L.

Tanners sumachSumac des corroyeurs

Distribution:South and MiddleEurope, South Russia, Caucasus,Turkey, Syria, Lebanon and PalestineRange in Lebanon: 0-1600m abovesea levelFlowering time: April - June

RosaceaeSorbus flabellifolia (Spach) C.K.SchneiderFanleaved service treeSorbier feuilles en ventail

Distribution:Turkey, Syria, Lebanonand Iran.Range in Lebanon: 1300-1800m abovesea levelFlowering time: March June

RosaceaePirus syriaca Boiss.

Syrian pearPoirier de Syrie

Distribution:Turkey, Iraq, Syria,Lebanon, Palestine and JordanRange in Lebanon: 400-1300m abovesea levelFlowering time: February - May

RosaceaePrunus korschinskii (Hand.-Mazz.)Bornm.Korshinskys almondAmandier de korshinsky

Distribution: Lebanon, Syria andPalestineRange in Lebanon: 800-1400 m abovesea level, rocks and mountainsslopesFlowering time: March April

RosaceaePrunus ursina Ky.

Bear plumPrunier des ours

Distribution:Turkey, Syria andLebanonRange in Lebanon: 0-2800m abovesea levelFlowering time: March May

FagaceaeQuercus brantii, ssp. look (Ky)MouterdeBrants oakChne de Brant

Distribution:Iran, Iraq, Turkey,Kurdistan, Syria and Lebanon(ssp. look is endemic to the reserve)Range in Lebanon: 1400-1800m abovesea levelFlowering time: April - May


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FabaceaeCalycotome villosa (Vahl) Link

Hairy thorny-broomCalycotome velu

Distribution:Spain, Portugal, NorthAfrica, Greece, Turkey, Syria, Lebanonand PalestineHabitat: WoodlandsFlowering time: January April

ValerianaceaeCentranthus longiflorus latifolusBoiss.Long-flowered spur-valerianCentranthe longues fleurs

Distribution:East MediterraneanRegionHabitat: Rocks at high mountains.Flowering time: June October

RosaceaeCotoneaster nummularia Fisch.

and Mey.Nummular cotoneasterCotonastre nummulaire

Distribution:North Africa, Turkey,North Iran, Turkestan, North Indiaand LebanonHabitat: Rocky grounds in mountainsFlowering time: May June

ThymalaeceaeDaphne oleoides Schreb.Olive-like daphneDaphn faux olivier

Distribution:Mediterranean Region,West AsiaHabitat: Woodlands, over 1000mFlowering time: April September

RanunculaceaeAnemone blanda Schott and Ky.Mountain anemoneAnmone charmante

Distribution: Mediterranean RegionHabitat: Rocky mountainsFlowering time: March May

RanunculaceaeAnemone coronaria phoenicea Ard.Crown anemoneAnmone couronne

Distribution: East MediterraneanRegionHabitat: Waste grounds andMountains

Flowering time: January - AprilMedicinal Plant

BerberidaceaeBerberis libanotica Ehrenb.Lebanon barberryBerbris du Liban

Distribution:Lebanon and SyriaHabitat: Mountains, 1400 - 1600mabove sea levelFlowering time: May JuneMedicinal Plant / Endemic species

Plants


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RubiaceaeGalium verum L.

Ladies bedstrawGaillet vrai

Distribution:Europe, North Africa,West Asia and North West IndiaHabitat: Woodlands and highMountainsFlowering time: June JulyMedicinal Plant

GeraniaceaeGeranium libani P.H. DavisLebanon geraniumGranium du Liban

Distribution:Turkey, Lebanon andPalestineHabitat: Forest landsFlowering time: March June

PapaveraceaeGlaucium leiocarpum Boiss.

Smoothed fruited horned-poppyGlaucienne fruits lisses

Distribution:Turkey, Syria, Lebanon,Iraq and IranHabitat: rocky grounds in mountainsFlowering time: April August

AsteraceaeGundelia tournefortii L.Tourneforts gundeliaGundlie de Tournefort

Distribution:Turkey, Syria, Lebanon,Palestine, Jordan, Iraq, Iran, Armeniaand CyprusHabitat: Waste grounds andMountainsFlowering time: April May

ApiaceaeDaucus carota L.

Wild carrotCarotte sauvage

Distribution:Mediterranean RegionHabitat: Road sides, clear areas.Flowering time: April June

CaryophyllaceaeDianthus libanotis Labill.Mountain-spignel pinkOeillet libanotis

Distribution: Iran, Iraq, Turkey, Syriaand Lebanon.Habitat: Mountains and Sub-aridregionsFlowering time: July September

AsteraceaeEchinops viscosus DC.

Viscous globe-thistleEchinope visqueux

Distribution:Turkey, Syria, Lebanon,Greece and PalestineHabitat: Road sidesFlowering time: May August

LamiaceaeEremostachys laciniata (L.) Bunge Cutleaved phlomisErmostachys lacinie

Distribution:Caucasus, Turkey, Syria,Lebanon, Palestine, Iran andAfghanistan.Habitat: Slopes, deep soilsFlowering time: March MayMedicinal Plant


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Fauna of theReserve

Mammals

The Shouf Biosphere Reserve is one of the last remaining areas inLebanon where large mammals that once roamed the region can still befound: wolves, wild boars and striped hyaena. In the future it may bepossible to reintroduce the ibex and mountain gazelle. In total, theReserve is home to 32 species of mammals. Wolf, wild boar, wild cat and

jungle cat have all increased in number since the Reserve wasestablished, as have the numbers of jackal, red fox, porcupine, andsquirrel. Striped hyenas are found on the borders of the Reserve andfeed on the garbage dumps and dead animals and carcasses.

Birds

Over 275 bird species have been recorded in the Shouf BiosphereReserve and the Ammiq Wetland (the wetland is a Ramsar site andImportant Bird Area-IBA). The birdlife of the Shouf Mountains includesrare or threatened birds such as the Syrian serin, Eagle owl, Chukarpartridge, Long-legged buzzard , etc. The whole area, placed strategicallybetween Europe, Africa, and West Asia, is very important for birdmigration. Each year countless storks, birds of prey, and other migrantspass over the reserve and use it as a resting, feeding and roosting site.

Reptiles and Amphibians

The region contains 31 species of reptile and Amphibians, including cha-meleon, tortoise, and several species of snakes, lizards, frogs, and toads.Viperidae: The vipers are represented in Lebanon by 3 species found invarious locations and altitudes. All these snakes are venomous and theirbites may cause death. They become normally active at the end of theday and through the night. At high altitudes, they are active during theday especially early and late in their activity and breeding season.

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VespertilionidaeMyotis myotisGreater Mouse-eared bat

Grand murinKhaffashFaariWeight: 28-40 grsLength: 67-84mm, tail 45-60mm,wing span 35-43cmHabitat: woodland, over short grassmeadows, pasture, and agriculturalland up to 1700mGeneral information: hibernate incaves. Feeding mainly on insects,beetles and large moth.

FelidaeFelis chausJungle catChat des maraisEl Hir El Nimr

Weight: 2.5-4.5 kg (6-12 kg) adult.Length: 45-65 cm (50- 90 cm) adultObservation: At nightHabitat: Wet areas, near watercatches, forests and bushy areas.

General information: Strong, brave,active and agile animal but endan-gered. The female delivers at the endof April. The young stay with theirmother for about 4-5 months. It feedson frogs, snakes, birds and mamals.

ErinaceidaeErinaceus europaeus concolorHedgehogHrissonKababat El shawk orAlQounfoz

Weight: 1 - 1,5 kg.Length: 0.20-0.30 mObservation:Night / day (rarely)Habitat: Orchards, near houses.General information:Hibernate inwinter. It rolls into a ball with spinesfor defense. Feeds on insects, inver-tebrates and snakes.

HyacnidaeHyaena hyaena syriacaStriped hyaenaHyne RayeDabaa

ProcaviidaeProcavia capenis syriacaRock HyraxDaman Des RochesTabsoun

Weight: 2-6 kgLength:50-60 cmObservation: Active during the dayHabitats: Rocky open areas in theReserve, mainly at Niha fortressGeneral information:The Rock Hyraxbelongs to the same order aselephants. However, these smallmammals have many uniquestructural peculiarities: a robustbuild, dusky colored fur, short limbswith specialized elastic pads on thesoles of the feet for good tractionwhen climbing or jumping. They usevocalization for communication; baskin the sun in winter to warm up.Hyraxes are colonial herbivorous.

CanidaeCanis aureus syriacusJackalLe ChacalIbn Awa

Weight: 5-12 kg.Length: 60-90 cm (tail 20 to 30 cm)Observation: Sunset to dawnHabitat: Forests, bushy areas and inclose proximity to villages.General information: The femaledelivers at the end of spring between4-6 cubs. It can travel between 5-20Km a day. The female is smaller thanthe male. The young stay for 6months with their mother. It feeds onfruits, birds, insects and rodents.

Mammals


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Weight: 20-50 kgLength: 85-130 (without length of tail)Observation: At nightHabitat: Cave in dense forestsGeneral information: Its hind legs areweaker than the front ones. It haslong pointed ears and a grey coatwith black stipes. It feed on carrion,fruits, vegetables and reptiles.

HystricidaeHystrix indica indicaPorcupinePor-picNeese

Weight: 10-17 kg.Length: 70-90 cmHabitat: Cultivated or bushy areas, inself-dug burrows or natural caves.General information: It is distinguishedby its black and white quills fordefending itself. Herbivorous, feedingon plants, bulbs and bark.

MustelidaeMeles meles canescens

BadgerBlaireauGhrayr

Weight: 7-14 kg.Length: 55-85 cm (tail 10 cm)Observation:At nightHabitat: Woodlands and sometimes athigh altitudeGeneral information: It ischaracterized by 2 black stripesrunning over the eyes as far as theears. It spends the winter in a wellorganized underground den dividedinto different compartments just

going out to feed. Feeds oninvertebrates, reptiles, rodents, andsometimes plants.

SciuridaeSciurus anomalus syriacusSquirrelEcureuilSynjab

Weight: 0.2-.0.4 kgLength: 20-40 cm (tail 10-20 cm)Observation:early morning and lateafternoonHabitat: Oak and cedar Forests.General information: The femaledelivers from April to Marsh. The nestexists inside grooves of trees. Feedson fruits, nuts, seeds, and birdseggs.

SuidaeSus scrofa lybicus

Wild boarSanglierKhanzir Barri

Weight: 70-250 kg.Length: 80-130 cm.Observation: At night when they goout to feedHabitat:Forests, swamps and aroundagricultural areasGeneral information: Strong animal,characterized by a strong sense ofsmell and hearing, but weak eyesight.The male has canine that growthroughout his life. Boars are com-mon due to their predator abscence.They feed on oak, bulbs, worms,snails, snakes and rats.

CanidaeVulpus vulpus palaestinaCommon red foxRenardThaalab

Weight: 3-6 kg.Length: 50-65 cm (tail bushy45-50cm)Observation: Active during the day butmore at night.Habitats:All habitats includingforests, bushy areas, open areas andvalleys and urban areas.General information: The female de-livers 2-5 cubs during May. The fox isrecognized from a characteristicwhite spot at the tip of its long tail.The young stay for one year with theirmother. It feeds on rodents, hares,birds, fruits and berries

CanidaeCanis lupus pallipesWolfLoup

Zeeb or DeebWeight: 14-30kg.Length: 80-115 cm bushy tail30-40cmObservation: Mainly nocturnal, butoccasionally hunts during the dayGeneral information: Globally threat-ened species, highly endangered inLebanon. Opportunistic carnivore,feeding on wild boar (piglets), hares,livestock, and occasionally on birds.They travel between 40-70km/nightsearching for food.


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MuscicapidaePhoenicurus phoenicurusCommon RedstartRougequeue front blanc

General information: It is a summervisitor to Lebanon, breeds at the CedarForests of the Reserve and most of itsfood consists of winged insects.

PhasianidaeAlectoris chukarChukar PartridgePerdrix chukar

General information: A commonbreeding bird in the Reserve, especiallythe rocky highlands and cedar forest.

CorvidaeGarrulus glandariusEuroasian JayGeai des chnesGeneral information: The Jay has animportant role in the natural regener-ation of Cedar and Oak Forests andcan be heard in wooded mountainhabitats from about 500m altitude tothe tree line.

TurdidaePhoenicurus ochruros

Western Black RedstartRougequeue noirGeneral information: A real highlandspecialized breeding bird in rockyareas within the Cedar forest.

FringillidaeSerinus syriacusSyrian SerinSerin syriaqueGeneral information: A very specialbird for Lebanon as the country holdsthe worlds largest population of thismountainous bird.

UpupidaeUpupa epops

Euroasian HoopoeHuppe fascie

General information: Instantlyrecognized with its black and whitewings and distinctive crest, thehoopoe breeds in cedar groves andother climax forests of the mountain.

CiconiidaeCiconia ciconiaWestern White StorkCicogne blanche

General information: Most of EasternEuropes population of white Storkspasses through Lebanon each springand fall.

Birds


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PelecanidaePelecanus onocrotalus

Great White PelicanPelican blancGeneral information: In flight, theWhite Pelican is an elegant soaringbird, with the head held close to andaligned with the body by a downwardbend in the neck.

AccipitridaePernis apivorusEuropean Honey BuzzardBondre apivore

General information: The HoneyBuzzards coat consists entirely ofunique feathers that are capable ofprotecting it against wasp stings. Byeating wasps the Honey Buzzardsprotect more bees than he eats.

FringillidaeCarduelis chloris

European GreenfinchVerdier dEurope

General information: Greenfinches nestin trees or bushes, thick vegetation isfavored for breeding. They lay 3 to 8eggs and feed largely on seeds, butalso take berries and insects.

FalconidaeFalco subbuteoEurasian Hobby FalconFaucon hobereau

General information: It is an elegantbird of prey, nests in old nests of crowsand other birds, lays 24 eggs, wasused in falconry, trained to hawk birdslike quails, larks, hoopoes, etc.

HirundinidaeHirundo rustica

Barn SwallowHirondelle de chemine

General information: The Barn swal-low is an attractive bird which feeds onflying insects and has therefore beenwelcomed by humans when it sharestheir buildings for nesting

MeropidaeMerops apiasterEuropean Bee-eaterGuepier dEurope

General information: The EuropeanBee-eater migrates during fall andspring seasons over Lebanon. It isappreciated for its fondness in wasp.

AccipitridaeMilvus migrans

Black KiteMilan noirGeneral information: Black Kites areopportunistic hunters and are morelikely to scavenge.

OriolidaeOriolus oriolusEurasian Golden OrioleLoriot dEurope

General information: The orioles are amainly tropical group, although onespecies (Eurasian Golden Oriole)breeds in temperate regions, namelyin Lebanon.


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HylidaeHyla savignyi

Middle East tree frogRainette verteDafdaa el shajar

Adult size3-5 cmStatus: AbundantHabitat: varied, most often near waterObservation: day time, most of theyear except the coldest months

ChamaeleonidaeChamaeleo chamaeleonMediterranean ChameleonChameleonHerbaya

Adult size(approx.):20 cmStatus: Few. (Globally endangeredspecies)Habitat:Woodland (on trees),0-1300mObservation: Day, in warm seasons

ColubridaeEirenis levantinus

Levant SnakeCouleuvreBarsha

Adult size(approx.): 60-75 cmStatus: AbundantHabitat: Varied, 0-1500mObservation: Day

ColubridaeElaphe sauromatesBarouk rat snakeSerpent de baroukHanash Al-Barouk

Adult size(approx.): >150cmStatus:Limited local distributionHabitat: Shrubland, Forest, 1400m 1800mObservation: Day

SalamandridaeSalamandra infraimmaculatainfraimmaculataFire SalamanderSalamandre de fer

Arouset Al-Ain

Adult size(approx.):>20cmStatus: abundantHabitat: damp woodland with aquatichabitats, 0 1500mObservation: evening, at night orwhen it rains

BufonidaeBuo cf. bufoCommon European toadCrapaud CommunOljoum

Adult size (approx.):12 cmStatus: fragmented distributionHabitat: Rocky river banks.400-1000mObservation: Mostly at night, occa-sionally daytime

BufonidaeBufo viridisGreen toadCrapaud vertOljoum Akhdar

Adult size(approx.): 10cmStatus: AbundantHabitat: Aquatic, moist habitat,0-2100mObservation: Most of the year, exceptin cold months, especially at night

Reptiles andAmphibians


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ColubridaeMalpolon monspessulanus

Montpellier SnakeCouleuvre de MontpelierHanash Ahmar

Adult size(approx.):>180cmStatus: AbundantHabitat: Sunny shrub land and openfields, 0 - 1600mObservation: Day

ColubridaeMontivipera bornmuelleriLebanon Mountain ViperVipre du Mont Liban

Afaa Al-Jabal

Adult size(approx.): >60 cmStatus: Endemic; Abundant at highaltitudes (Globally threatenedspecies)Habitat: Rocky and mountainvegetation (Jord), 1500-2000mObservation: Day

ColubridaeNatrix tessellate tessellata

Water snakeCouleuvre tesseleHayyet May

Adult size(approx.): >150 cmStatus: AbundantHabitat: Ponds, marshes, rivers,0-1500mObservation: Day

LacertidaeOphisops elegansSnake - eyed lizardLzard oeil de serpentShemmaysse

Adult size(approx.): 15 cmStatus: AbundantHabitat: Dry shrub and openwoodland, 0 - 1500 mObservation: Day

LacertidaePhoenicolacertakulzeriMount Lebanon Rock Lizard

Lzard des muraillesSaqqaya Jabaliyyeh

Adult size(approx.): 10-15 cmStatus: Abundant at high altitudes(Globally threatened species)Endemic speciesHabitat: Rocky slopes and plateaus,trees (cedars), 1400-2100mObservation: Day

LacertidaePhoenicolacerta laevisCommon wall lizardLzard des muraillesSaqqaya, Shimmaysse

Adult size(approx.): 6-8 cmStatus: AbundantHabitat: Moist habitats, Walls, trees,rocks, 0-1450 mObservation: day

AgamidaeLaudakia stellio stellioAgama

AgameHardun

Adult size(approx.): 20-22 cmStatus: AbundantHabitat: Rocky areas, woodlands,0-2000mObservation: Warm sunny days

ColubridaeMacrovipera lebetinaLevant viperVipre

Afaa

Adult size(approx.): >200cmStatus: AbundantHabitat: Woodlands and shrublands,0-1300mObservation: day/night depending onseason


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Insectsin the Reserve

Thanks to a wealth of wild flowers, there are more than 50

species of butterflies distributed over 4 families and 8 sub-

families, that thrive throughout the Reserve. Particularly on

a sunny day in the spring, or early summer, patches of flowers can

be surrounded with these most delicate of insects. Each specieshas its own particular requirements, some being specific to one

plant as food for their caterpillars. Butterflies can live in their adult

stage from a week to nearly a year depending on the species. They

feed primarily on nectar from flowers and are important as polli-

nators for some species of plants.

Cedar mountainblue

Lysandra ellisoni


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Nine spottedmoth

Syntomis mestralii

The seven-spotladybird

Coccinella septumpunctata

The great greenbush-cricket

Tettigonia viridissima


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Burnet mothzygaena carniolica

OwlflyAscalaphus macaronius

Painted ladyVanessa cardui


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Marbled whiteMelanargia titea

Cardinal or greatfritillary

Pandoriana Pandora

Common blueCommon blue

Black veined whiteAporia crataegi


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Cardinal or greatfritillary

Pandoriana Pandora

Lesser spottedfritillary

Melitaea trivia


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Common blueLycaeides idas


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70 71

Ain Dara(

)

Some suggest that thename of the town is attri-buted to a Persian king

named Darius, who hunted in thearea and pitched his tent by a spring(ain), leading to the name of AinDarius later modified to Ain Dara.Others trace the word Dara to theAramaic language meaning dwell-ing. Still standing in Ain Dara arethe ruins of two watchtowers usedduring the famous battle of Ain Darabetween the Kaissey and Yamaneyfactions of the Druze. There are alsosome very old buildings such as theMaronite Church of Mar Gerges (St.Georges) and the Orthodox Church ofMar Gerges. Ain Dara is noted for itsabundance of springs.

Distance from Beirut: 35 km

Altitude 1,250 meters


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7372

Bmohray(

)

Distance from Beirut 41 km


Bmohray contains the re-mains of Roman monuments

and rock sarcophagi but there is norecord of the history of the village.Most probably its first inhabitantswere tradesmen engaged in the trade

of cedar wood which is still abundantin the area. The Bmohray cedar forestcovers one million square meterswhile the pine forest covers threemillion square meters. Before theLebanese civil war of 1975-1990 themain source of income for the villagewere the apple orchards. There are no

restaurants or hotels at Bmohray butthere are several sites in the pineforests that are suitable for picnicsand camping.


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Ain Zhalta/Nabaa Safa

(

/

)


Altitude 950 meters

Ain Zhalta is situated on asouthern hill of Wadi al Safaand boasts a number of

important springs: Al Safa Spring; AlQaah Spring that once supplied theBeiteddine palace during the rule ofEmir Bachir;Al ReaayanSpring wherea huge pumping station now distri-butes potable water toAley, Bhamdounand other neighbouring towns; andAin al Hilaf recorded in history as thesite where Emir Bachir held peacetalks with his adversaries. In the townare the remains of a citadel that wasbuilt during Maanirule and later wastransformed into a Protestant Church.

There is an area called the JewishCemetery and nearby a small ruinedvillage known as Kafra.


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Barouk/Fraidiss(

/

)



The origin of the townsname is Phoenician mea-ning the blessed. A distin-

guishing feature of Barouk is its re-nowned cedar forest that is now partof the Shouf Biosphere Reserve. Itsmany springs and open-air restau-rants have attracted tourists from theentire Arab region for centuries. It isalso the birthplace of the Lebanesepoet Rachid Nakhleh (composer ofLebanons national anthem) whoseburial place is frequented by tourists.


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Batloun(

)



Batloun is bordered by the townof Kfar Nabrakh to the west,Barouk to the east, Maasser el

Chouf to the south, and Briihfrom thenorth. Batloun is rich in groundwaterand has a river flowing in the village.The fruit trees cultivated in this villageare apple, peach, cherry, fig, almondas well as grape. Oak trees arecommon in Batloun.


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80 81

Maasserel Shouf

(

)



This village is situated on theedge of the Shouf BiosphereReserve and is about 7 km

from one of the oldest groves of cedartrees in Lebanon. Maasser is a tradi-tional village with a town square, anold mill, an oak and pine forest, andtwo natural water sources. Recentarchaeological studies revealed thatMaasser was inhabited since the 4thcentury BC. The El Hosn ruins dateback to the Roman era as evidencedby tombs cut in the rock. On the trailfrom Maasser to Moukhtara there isan ancient and deserted water milldating back to the 16th century or

before and an Ottoman bridge thatlinks the two sides of the valleybetween Maasser and Botmeh. TheSaint Michael church and convent arethe two major religious monuments inMaasser. The convent has been reno-vated and converted into a bed &breakfast. Maasser also includes aguest house, wood cabins, and theMaasser Park House headquartersof the Shouf Biosphere Reserve.


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Botmeh((

)



Botmeh is on the BaroukRiver Valley Trail and isfamous for its old stonehouses, its old churches, and

an ancient grape press. Visitorsinterested in archaeology can visitthe ruins of the ancient village ofFornaya which dates to the Romanperiod. Botmeh is also renowned forits pine woods, the geological cavesof el Dabaa, el Houwweh and Ain elBasatine, old springs of Ain el Horchand Ain el B ayyad, as well as animaland plant fossils.


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Moukhtara(

)


Altitude 850 meters

Moukhtara is on the BaroukRiver Valley Trail and wellknown for being the seat of

the Joumblatt family leaders of theDruze community in Lebanon. TheJoumblatts palace was built in the17thcentury and rebuilt in the mid 19thcentury. The town is also famous forits traditional old houses, its old oilpresses, and two El Saydeh(Our Lady)churches. The early 16th century,Baddeh bridge used to link Moukhtarawith the villages of the Barouk valley.The valley near Moukhtara containsmany water mills dating to the 16thcentury and before- such as theBaddeh water mill.


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86 87

Ain Qani(

)


Altitude 830 meters

Ain Qani is on the BaroukRiver Valley Trail and famous

for the Birket el Aarous site wherethere is a water mill dating from the16thcentury and a bridge built in 1507during the late Mamluk era both onthe Nabeh MershedRiver.

One can also enjoy the architectureof the 18thand 19thcentury houses ofthe Joumblatt and Zeineldine fami-lies in the center of the village. Hikerswill enjoy the ancient trail linkingMoukhtara to Ain Qani through theBirket el Aarousbridge.

The Birket el Arouss Bridge

The bridge was built at the end of the

Mamluk period in 913 AH (1507 AD)

and is part of a complex network of

bridges and trails built in the valley

of Barouk. It serves as an important

link on the road that runs through the

Barouk valley to Marj Bisri and the

valley of Nahr el Awali that ends on

the Mediterranean coast near Sidon.

()


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Khreibeh(

)



This village is known for itstraditional Lebanese houses,its old oak tree, and the Saint

Georges Church. It is also known forits ancient ruins and monumentssuch as the oil presses, sarcophagiand the Joumblatt family Serai da-ting from the Ottoman period. Thereare also six water sources, Ain elChatawiyeh, Ain el Jadida , Ain elQadima, Ain el Mechqer, Ain Aadas,and Ain Amer. An old oak tree is lo-cated near the public school.Accommodation is available in thelocal guesthouse as well as in seve-ral wooden cabins.


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Amatour((

)


Altitude 850 meters

Amatour is on the BaroukRiver Valley Trail and boasts

a Roman temple located outside thevillage in the Marj Bisriarea. It is alsorenowned for its beautiful traditional

The Roman templeof Marj Bisri

The temple is located in Marj Bisri in

the village of Amatour at the point

of intersection of the Barouk and

Aray rivers and is currently buried

beneath fluvial deposits. Passers-by

can only catch sight of four columns

of black granite and a wall visible in

the bed of Nahr Aray. This temple

is an archeological and geological

attraction because it was most l ikely

buried after a strong earthquake

which obstructed the river and cre-

ated a dam. Sediments kept on piling

up behind the dam and engulfed the

Roman temple and the little nearby

town. The temple can still be seen

from the hilltop of Jabal Niha.

()

houses and characteristic gates da-ting from the Ottoman period such asDar Bou Hamza(1215H/1800 AD), DarAhmad Ali Abed el Samad(1273H/1856AD), and Dar Ahmad Sleiman AbouChakra. Amatour is home to a num-ber of religious monuments such astwo Druze khalwat, a 19th centuryCatholic Church, old trails, and watersprings the oldest of which is calledAin el Foqr(the spring of poverty).


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Baadarane(

)



Baadarane is known for itsOttoman houses and monu-

ments particularly the palace ofSheikh Ali Joumblatt, as well as theTajeldin and Abou Chakr a gates.Recent excavations revealed Romanruins that include grape presses,tombs cut into the rock, and sarcoph-agi. Hundreds of ceramic shardsfrom the Phoenician, Hellenistic,Roman, and Byzantine eras havebeen found between Khreibeh andBaadarane villages. A well equippedguesthouse and wooden cabins

The Baadarane Serai

The Baadarane Serai is also called

the Jumblatt Serai. It was built in

the early 18thcentury by Sheikh

Ali Jumblatt one of the leaders of

the Shouf. During the Great Syrian

Revolt in Jabal al Arab in 1926,

the Serai became a stronghold

of Druze rebels and a symbol of

resistance to the French Mandate

over Syria and Lebanon. The

French retaliated by campaigning

against the Druze community

in the Shouf region. The Serai is

characterized by its 18th-19th

Ottoman Lebanese architecture.

(

)

welcome overnight visitors and arelocated near a local workshop andtraditional loom.

What is a Serai?

Serai is a Persian word meaningpalace. During the Ottoman periodthis word was widely used in MountLebanon to designate a palace and/or headquarters where the emir orthe sheikh lived and ruled.


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Haret Jandal(

)


Altitude 850 meters

Haret Jandal is on the BaroukRiver Valley Trail and isknown for its very old oaktrees located in the center of

the village and its old olive tree in theEl Basatine area. One can also visitarchitectural and archaeologicalmonuments such as the 19 th century

house of the Mallak family, the 19thcentury bridge located in the ElDlaghine area, and the ruins of theancient village ofJiblaye dating to theRoman period. The ruins of an an-cient oil press can be seen nearthese ruins.


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Mrosti(

)



The village square in Mrosti isfamous for the statue of KamalBeik Joumblatt, the renowned

old oak woods and the Ottomanbridge. There is also an old grapepress and three natural springs: Ainel Ghabeh, Ain el Tahta, and Jeita Spring. TheJeitaSpring is consideredblessed and holy. The Khalwat alSheikh al Sadeq (Druze holy site)dates back to the 16th century and isthe main religious attraction of thevillage.


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Jebaa(

)



Many natural elements,places, and monuments contributeto the reputation of Jebaa: its oakand pine forests known by the inhab-itants as the Roman woodland, an oldgrape press cut into the rock, thenatural caves, the water sources ofAin Chaachouh and Ain el Dayaa, andtombs in Maabour el Wadi (the pas-sage of the valley). A well equippedpicnic area was created near AinChaachouh in cooperation with theLebanon Mountain Trail (the first andlongest hiking trail in Lebanonstretching over 440 km in length).


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100 101

Bater(

)


Altitude 800 meters

Bater is on the Barouk RiverValley Trail and famous for itschurch, its old 19th and early20th century houses such as

the Hamdan house, and for the oldwater mill which was still functioninguntil the early 1980s. Bater is alsowell known for its water springs suchas the Ain el Kamal, and for its twogrottos of Ain el Masqfehandel Keif.

An old hiking trail links Bater to MarjBisri, site of the Roman temple. Ofinterest is the Jisr al Saqyia (bridge)and its three arches. A natural park inthe valley near the Marj Bisriis one ofBaters recent attractions.


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102 103

Niha(

)



Niha has been inhabited sincethe Roman times. The mostfamous monument in Niha is

the cave fortress (Cave of Tyron). Thiscave was used by the Crusaders andthe Mamluks to control the vital roadlinking Sada to the Bekaa valley (italso became famous as the refuge ofEmir Fakhreddine). The shrine of NabiAyoubis built on a summit overlookingthe village of Niha where the prophetJob is believed to be buried. Pilgrimsfrequently visit this site. Niha is rich inold springs such as Ain el Qataa,Nabeh Niha, and the very old Ain elHalqoum. It also has old traditionalhouses, two ancient churches (SaintJoseph and Saint Georges), two oldbridges (El Jisr el Tahtani and JisrTareeq el Nahr), and an old water mill.Niha has a well run private guesthouseand an information center managedby the Shouf Biosphere Reserve.


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Who is Fakhreddine?

Emir Fakhreddine ibn Maan is alsoknown as Fakhreddine the Great orFakhreddine the Second. He wasa Druze prince and the first rulerof the Emirate of the Shouf. Hewas born in Baaqline in the ShoufMountains in 1572 and united theterritories of modern Lebanon aswell as parts of Palestine and Syriaunder his authority.


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The Fortress of Niha

Located 70 km from

Beirut, the cave for-

tress of Niha is called

Cave of Tyron in Frankish

sources and Chquif Tayroun

in Arabic sources. It is carved into

the rock of a cliff overlooking theBisri and the Aray valley and its

strategic location monitors the

road between Sidon and the Bekaa.

Rooms were dug in the living rock

to serve as shelter for soldiers, as

depots, and for domestic use. It

also had a considerable number of

silos for storing provisions and rain

water was collected on site as well

as running water piped in from Ain

el Halquoum nearby. It was well

fortified and closed off to intruders.

The fortress was mentioned for

the first time in 975 AD when

Tamim, Emir of the Gharb, was

besieged by the troops of the gov-

ernor of Damascus. In 1133, the

fortress was occupied by a Druze

Sheikh called Dahak bin Jandal al

Tamimi who was later removed

from the fortress by the Atabeck

of Damascus. In 1241 the fortress

became the property of the Cru-

saders and in 1251 the governor(wali) of Sidon led an army that

occupied it. In 1257 the Crusader

Lord of Sidon donated it to the

Teutonic Order who did not hold

on to it for long. In 1261 the Tartars

invaded Damascus and sent Sha-

habaldin bin Bohtor to destroy it.

When Baybars conquered the city

of Damascus in 1270 he ordered

the fortress of Niha to be rebuilt.

It is believed that in 1585 the Emir

Qorqomaz Maan took refuge in it

shortly before his death. In 1633

his son Emir Fakhreddine and his

family found refuge in the fortress

from the Ottoman troops but was

was later captured and executed

in 1635 in Istanbul.

()


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Qab Elias(

)

Distance from Beirut 40 Km

Altitude 950 meters

The most important monu-ment in this town is the fa-mous Ottoman castle which

overlooks the Bekaa and was built tocontrol the road that linked Beirutand the Shouf to the Bekaa valley. In1625, Emir Fakhreddin destroyed an

older palace that stood there andconstructed this castle. Another fa-mous monument in Qab Elias is theHaidarawhich is an unfinished tombdating from the early Roman period.It is a vertical shaped relief carvedinto the cliff measuring 10 metershigh and 13 meters wide. In the areasof Qab Elias are two minor archaeo-logical sites: a relief from the 8 thand7th century BC, and a Roman relieflocated in the valley of Wadi el Delem.These two monuments are only ac-cessible by foot.

One can also visit the memorial tothe French soldiers who died in 1860,the Ras el Ain( )area in the Wadiel Delem ( ) where visitors canhike and lunch in family restaurantsand the public garden located in thesouthern part of the village.


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110 111

Ammiq/DeirTahnish

(

) /

)


Altitude 1,030 meters The Qalet el Mdiq Fort

Qalet el Mdiq fort (also known

as Khirbet Saalouk - )is located on a rocky hill on the

eastern slopes of Mount Lebanon

adjacent to the Qab Elias - Saghbine

road. A new study basee on the

text of the Greek historian Polybius

(200-118 BC) reveals that the actualQalet el Mdiq was called Brocho

and commanded the strategic

road above the Ammiq swamps.

The armies of the Seleucid King

Antiochus were stopped twice

by the garrison of this fort in 221

and 220 BC. Along with a second

fort (Gerra located near Anjar

and Majdel Anjar) it constituted a

Ptolemaic front line which blocked

the path of Seleucid invaders. A

niche with a relief representing a

personage making an offering is

located directly below the hill and

overlooks the modern road.

()

The ruins of old Ammiq(Khirbet Ammiq )are located on the eastern

slopes of Mount Lebanon overlook-ing the West Bekaa. One can see theruins of old stone houses that dateback to the Ottoman period and thefirst half of the 20 th century. Recentarchaeological surveys of the ruins

of Qalet el Mdiq revealed that thisvillage was occupied during the Hel-lenistic and Roman eras.

The St. George Church is locatednear the ruins of the old Ammiq. Itwas built in 1865 and was damagedby the 1956 earthquake. It has sincebeen restored.

Sitt Shewayne is a popular place ofworship for the Druze and the date ofits construction is uncertain.

x

Deir Tahnish is a small vil-lage inhabited mostly byshepherds. Famous for its19th century church dedi-

cated to Saint Elijah and for theRoman hypogeum that is locatednear the modern Christian cemeterybehind the church.


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Ancient lake ofthe Bekaa in Ammiq

The ancient lake

of the Bekaa or the

Ammiq swamp was

mentioned in a number of histori-

cal sources from the fourth centu-

ry BC until the Mamluk period as a

lake where fragrant reed grew. It

was drained in the Mamluk period

and much later by the Jesuits in

the early 20th century. This lake

was an obstacle for invaders and

a natural frontier between the

Ptolemaic kingdom in the south

and the Seleucid in the north.

Among the ancient authors who

mentioned the Ammiq wetlands

are: Theophrastus (371-287 BC)

who described it in his Botanical

History as a lake where the fra-

grant reed g rew. Polybius (200-118

BC) named it the Lake of Marsyas.

The Geography of Strabo (64 BC-

24 AD) also referred to it as the

aromatic reed lake. Pliny the Elder

(23-79 AD) referred to this lake

as did the text of the Dead Sea

Scrolls. Later in the Mamluk era

Aboulfeda (1273 1331 AD) spoke

of the lake describing it as swamps

and bushes where the reed grew.

Qalqachandi (1356 1418 AD)

claimed the lake was one days

walk from Baalbeck.

Aana(

)


Altitude 970 meters

A small and charming villagebest known for its pinewoods, picnic and camping

areas, and beautiful church.


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Kefraya(

)


Altitude 950 meters

Kefraya has a Romano-Byzan-tine grape mill located amongthe agricultural terraces out-side the center of the village.

Visiting the Dahr el Moghor hypogea(underground dwellings) from theRoman and Byzantine era near theBoustros palace is a must. The fivehypogea are dug into the rock of asmall hill situated in the middle of the

Kefraya vineyard. Kefraya also has anold mosque built in 1935 (the minaretwas added in 1959) and a church builtin 1960. A visit to Chateau Kefraya isrecommended as well as the Cha-

teau of Michel de Boustros. Visitorscan enjoy wine tasting, eat a meal, orshop at the show room.


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Chateau Kefraya Winery

Located in the Bekaa

valley near the crossroads

of the Qab Elias/Saghbine

highway with the Kefraya/

Maasser el Shouf road, the Chateau

Kefraya winery and restaurant

is a must visit for travelers and

wine lovers. Established in the

1950s Kefraya is ideally suited to

growing the best wine grapes

that give Chateau Kefrayas wines

authenticity and originality. The

land is located at an altitude that

ranges from 900 to 1100 meters

above sea level and consists of a

clay-chalk and stony soil that is

exposed to 240 days of generous

sunshine a year. Chateau Kefraya

only produces wines with grapes

grown in Kefraya and all the stages

of the wine making process take

place on site.


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KhirbetQanafar

(

)


Altitude 950 meters

Khirbet Qanafar has twowatermills one of which isearlier than 16th century andthey operate on the flow of

Nabe el Khraizet to grind wheat intoflour. Mat-hanet el Jawzeis the oldestwatermill but it has deterioratedand can only be distinguish by itsruins. However, Mat-hanet Massoudis more recent and is relatively wellpreserved.

Overlooking the Bekaa valley thereis the cave of repentance which isin fact a tomb carved into the rockdating back to the Roman period anddistinguished by a carved relief abovethe entrance representing male andfemale figures.

In the valley of Wadi el Jawz thereare eight tombs carved into the rocksome of which have been degradedover the years by natural causes.These tombs date back to the Romanperiod and each was big enough tobury three or more persons. Thereis also a natural cave in Wadi el Jawzwith stalactites and stalagmites.

The Maqam el Sheikh Mothafar islocated close to the municipalitybuilding and was built to honor AdiyIbn Mosfer, a famous Sufi born inthis village in the 11th century. Thechurch of St. Elijah is the older of twochurches in the village and was builtin the 19th century by the Maronitecommunity. A second church wasbuilt in 1911 by the Melkite Catholiccommunity.


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Ain Zebde(

)



The main source of water inAin Zebde is a natural springsurrounded by old walnut

trees whose water is used for irriga-tion. The water mill of Nahr elChawaghir dates back to the Ottomanperiod and was powered by the flowof water from Nahr el Chawaghir.The cave of Nahr el Chawaghir ischaracterized by its mini stalactitesformed over the ages. Wadi elMghara is a natural cave enlarged byhumans and located on the mainroad linking Ain Zebde to Saghbine.You can still see the remains of anancient wall that blocked its entrance

and was probably used to sheltershepherds and travelers.

The Jirjis Shaulhouse is an old resi-dence dating from the late 19th cen-tury located in the village center. Itscharm lies in its simple and func-tional architecture as well as its sur-rounding vegetation.


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Saghbine(

)



The water spring of AinShouaais 1 km from the vil-lage in a picnic area whereas

the spring of Ain el Ghazireh is lo-cated near the center of the village.In the center one can also see oldrock basins that were used for thepreparation of grape molasses andbulgar wheat.

The Saint Georges church was builtin the late 18thcentury and is charac-terised by its architecture. One canalso visit the house of Mfaleh elAjami,built in 1910 and is now a high school.

From the upper parts of the villagethe visitors can see the recent cedarforests of Baaloul, Lala and JoubJannine. These Anti-Lebanon forestabsorb humidity from the man-madeQaraoun lake.


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Bab Mareh(

)


Altitude 960 meters

This town is situated onthe eastern slope of theShouf mountain and it issurrounded by oak trees.

Its name comes from Baith Maresa place name found on an inscriptionon a gold oil lamp in 1950 near thespring of Aattouneh () datingback to (121 AD).

The ruins of five old Roman under-ground chambers or hypogea can befound near the village. The ancientneighbourhood called Haret Tannousis very rich in traditional Lebanesehouses and Nabe el Attouneh is thebest known spring in the village.

Aytanit(

)



The name Aytanit mostlikely derives from the

Phoenician goddess Tanit. A mainwater source is located in the centerof the village surrounded by a largerock with Roman inscriptions. One ofthe most important sites in this townis the Roman cave which is actually ahypogeum or underground chamber.An archaeological site Jwar el Khanis located near Aytanit and hasaround 40 sarcophagi and otherruins such as cisterns.


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Historic Sites

Beiteddine

Palace(

)

The Beiteddine palace was built between 1788 and 1818 by Emir BeshirShehab II. Architecturally the palace is divided into three sections: Darel Baraniyyeh or the outer section of the palace, Dar el Wousta or themiddle section, and Dar el Harim or the private apartments that includedthe hammam. It remained the emirs residence until his exile in 1840. Theedifice was reused by the Ottoman authorities as a seat of governmentand later during the French Mandate it served for the local administrativepurposes. Lebanons General D irectorate of Antiquities started restorationwork on the palace in 1926 and it was declared a historical monument in1934. After Lebanon gained its independence in 1943 the palace becamethe summer residence of the president of the republic.


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People ofthe Reserve

In this section of the guidebook we will meet some of the peoplewho live in the villages around the Shouf Biosphere Reserve and

learn about their connection to the protected area and the role they playin conserving the natural and cultural values of the region.

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Marwan Khodr(local guide)

Marwan Khodr has beenworking as an environmentalguide for over a decade. Based

in Baaqline, Marwan knowsevery nook and cranny of his

hometown and green spacessurrounding it. Claiming nature ismy inspiration Marwan has learnedto recognize endemic species suchas local birds and plants. He hasspent much of his time with oldvillagers recording their habits andcustoms because he realizes thatthey are an important part of ourcultural heritage.


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Raed Zeidan(bee keeper)

Ever since he inherited his fa-thers job, Raed has been con-vinced that his bee colonies are

part of his family. After graduatingwith a degree in agriculture hispractical experience with bees al-lowed him to become an expert inthis field. In 1992 an unexpected inci-dent occurred in the Shouf cedar fo-rests in the form of an infestation ofthe honeydew aphids that accumu-lated on the branches of cedar trees.Raed believed that the introductionof the domestic bee would benefitthe cedar trees by feeding on the ac-cumulated aphid honeydew. The trial

was a success and cedar honey isnow a major product of the Reserve.


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Marwan &Fadi Bouwadi

(carpenters)

Marwan and Fadi are carpenterswho always look forward to newprojects, especially when itcomes to renovating traditional

mountain houses. Wood is a livingmaterial that breathes and has itsown life. I can feel the soul of eachpiece of wood I touch says Marwan.Fadi explains how they designfurniture and items that belong totheir mountain heritage such aswheelbarrows or kitchen utensils.Moreover, they both restore oldwooden ceilings that give a warmfeeling in old mountain houses.


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Nazih Baz(traditional weaver)

Nazih Baz manufacturesabayas (robes) and othertextiles in the old workshop

he inherited from his forefathers inBaadaran that is famous for itsweaving and design. Using the cen-tury old loom in his shop requires aspecial technique that Nazih learnedfrom his grandfather such as theuse of up to 24 pedals to operate themanual weaving machine. Nazih alsoowns a family guesthouse in Baadaranthat offers accomodation to moun-tain hikers who want to discover therich natural and cultural heritage ofthe Shouf.


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Zeineddine owns an artisanbusiness in the village ofBaadaran. In season he picks

fruits and vegetables and preparesfresh pickled vegetables, savory

jams, and marmalades . His mostpopular product is candied greenfigs cooked on the same day theyare picked. Other favorites include:an oregano mix consists of driedoregano rubbed with olive oil com-bined with wild pine nuts, sumach,and salt; tomato pure boiled forhours on a wood fire; grape molas-ses (debs el inab); and orange blos-som water and many other

therapeutic and natural healing es-sences such as lavender, rosemaryor thyme.

ZineddineChazbeck

(green farmer)


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Khreibeh, in the vicinity ofMoukhtara, is a pictu-

resque village home to the traditio-nal house of Selim El Achkar. Theguesthouse has four rooms that canaccommodate up to fifteen guestsand a living room warmed on chillywinter days by a wood burning chim-ney. For breakfast, Selim is proud ofhis country breakfasts consisting ofhomemade oregano pizzas, driedyoghurt and free-range eggs mixedwith kawarma. The guesthousealso offers an open-air terrace sui-table for brunches and late eveninggatherings. Selim is an mountain

eco-guide happy to accompany trek-kers in the Shouf Biosphere Reserve.

Slim El Achkar(guesthouse owner)


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Born in Warhaniyeh, Houssamdevotes much of his time to

cedar trees. The cedar tree grows atan altitude ranging from 800 to 1,800meters and is native to the mountainsof Lebanon. It is very resistant to snowand cold weather. Over the centuries,extensive deforestation occurred, withonly small remnants of the originalforests surviving. The Lebanese arenow expanding the cedar foreststhrough a combination of replantingand protection. There is a growingawareness of the importance of plant-ing trees to overcome deforestation.Houssam feels blessed as cedars

grow on his side of the mountain. Yourealize how much these trees needthe cold when you see them growingon the cool western slope.

HoussamGhanem(saving cedar trees)


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Visiting theReserve


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Maasser Park House

The headquarters of the Shouf Biosphere Reserve is located in a re-stored and refurbished Lebanese house in the main square of Maasserel Shouf. In addition to providing visitors with information, rest rooms,

conference room, gift shop, bike rental station, and walking/hiking needs,it also serves as the administrative center of the Reserve. Thanks to fundsfrom Agence Francaise pour le Developpement (AFD) and the Maasser elShouf Municipality the Reserve was able to purchase an old house of Le-vantine/Ottoman architecture in the main town square. During 2009 -2010 the Park House was completely rehabilitated thanks to funds fromthe Italian Cooperation in collaboration with Directorate General of Antiq-uities. The work was executed by local craftsmen experienced in traditionalstone and iron work. A sustainable solar energy system, generating elec-tricity for 6 hours per day, was installed in September 2010.

Head Office

Entrances and services


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Maasser Cedar Forest

The Maasser entrance opens directly onto 16 hectares of the oldest andmost impressive cedar trees. It is also famous for the old Lamartine cedartree that overlooks the western slopes of Mount Lebanon. The woodenhut at the entrance provides tourist information, rest rooms, and a gift shopwith organic products and souvenir items. The Maasser forest has severalself guided walking trails as well as a qualified guides for longer trails.

Barouk Cedar ForestThe Barouk entrance is located 2 km from the center of Barouk and in-cludes tourist information, rest rooms, and a gift shop for organicproducts. From the Barouk entrance there are several hiking trails one canfollow to explore over 400 hectares of cedar forest. For bird and animallovers, there is a stone blind above the Hill lake to observe wildlife.Visitors can also adopt a cedar tree at the entrance.

Ain Zhalta/Bmohray Cedar ForestThis entrance is located 4 km from Nabe el Safa and includes touristinformation, gift shop, organic products, and rest rooms. There are anumber of hiking trails covering 170 hectares of cedar forest.

Entrances

Mrosti Entrance

The Mrosti entrance is a newly established gate through which you canreach the Roman oak trail with its old trees and a wonderful panoramicview to the western villages of the Reserve.

Niha FortThis entrance provides visitor information and a gift shop for organicproducts and souvenir items. Rest rooms are available. A quick hike willlead you to the medieval Niha fort that overlooks the Aray and Marj Bisrivalleys. A much longer hike will take you to the Nebi Ayyoub Shrine amajestic place where you can enjoy one of the best views of the Lebanesemountains.

Ammiq Park House -Tawlet AmmiqThis entrance was recently built to exacting specifications and is con-sidered the most eco-friendly building in Lebanon. The building alsoserves as an information center, conference room, gift shop, and sellssome of the finest w ines from the Bekaa. An old walking t rail from Ammiqto the Shouf is very popular.

Opening hours:Entrances: Summer (9:30-18:00); Winter (10:00-16:00) Head Office:Summer (8:30-16:30); Winter (8:30-15:30)


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First option

From Beiruttake the coastalhighway south for about 20 km toDamour. From there take the road toBeiteddine which passes throughthe village of Kfarhim. FromKfarhim you have the choice oftaking the southern route throughBaaqline (a right turn at thefountain) or the northern routethrough Deir El Qamar (continuingstraight past the fountain). Bothroads meet at Maasser Beiteddine.

From Maasser Beiteddineyou cantake a sharp left turn at theintersection to go the Barouk andAin Zhalta/Bmohray entrances ofthe Reserve. If you keep goingstraight through the intersection youwill pass through the villages ofBeiteddine, Baqaata and Moukhtara.From Moukhtara take a sharp left atthe Jumblatt palace to Botmeh andthen on to Maasser el Shouf. From

the coastal town of Damour it takesabout 30 to 45 minutes to reach thePark House of the Shouf BiosphereReserve in the village of Maasser elShouf.

In case you want to go to the NihaFort/Shqif Tyron keep going straightthrough Moukhtara to Amatour, andeventually to Niha.

The distances from Beiteddine tothe various Shouf BiosphereReserve entrances are:

15 km to the Barouk cedar forestentrance17 km to the Maasser el Shouf Parkhouse20 km to the Ain Zhalta - Bmohraycedar forest entrance24 km to the Maasser el Shoufcedar forest entrance25 km to the Niha Fort/ShqifTayroun entrance.

How to get tothe Reserve

First option

Second option

Third option


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Second optionA second routeto the ShoufBiosphere Reserve from Beirut isvia the Damascus highway east toAley (about 20 km). After A leycontinue past the villages ofBhamdoun and Sowfar to Mdayrejwhere you make a right turn off theDamascus highway and headtowards Ain Zhalta (14 km fromMdayrej). Then to the gate of AinZhalta-Bmohray.It takes approximately 30-35 minutesto reach the Shouf Biosphere Reservefrom Aley.

The distances between Mdayrej andthe Shouf Biosphere Reserveentrances are:

17 km to the Ain Zhalta-Bmohraycedar forest entrance22 km to the Barouk cedar forestentrance

35 km to the Maasser el Shoufcedar forest entrance50 km to the Niha Fort/ShqifTayroun entrance

Third option

A third routeto the Shouf BiosphereReserve is from Kefraya in the BekaaValley. From the main Kefrayaintersection take the road west overthe mountains to the Maasser elShouf cedar forest entrance (about14 km from Kefraya).

From Maasser el Shoufyou can takethe road to Moukhtara and then toNiha Fort/Shqif Tayroun entrance(15 km from Moukhtara) or you cantake the road that passes throughthe Dalboun oak forest to Baroukand on to the Barouk Cedarentrance.


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hour starting from 9 AM to 5 PM. Allthe buses reach Jdaideh/Baakaatawhere taxis can be hired to any ofthe entrances and villages. Some ofthe buses from Cola reach Barouk,and Niha as well as Khreibeh andBaadarane.

What to bringVisitors should come equipped with:

Good hiking or walking shoesComfortable clothing and a fleece

jacketBackpack, water, and a capAppropriate clothing for inclementweather

You may also want to bring:

Field guide Camera Binoculars

Walking stick

Basic rules

Refrain from:

Smoking, campfires, or fire

of any kind

Hunting

Cutting trees or shrubs

Collecting flora or fauna

Camping

Littering

Disturbing the peace

How to get tothe Ammiq

Wetland

To visit the Ammiq Wetland,the Eco Building, and TawletAmmiq (eco-restaurant) takethe Beirut-Damascus highway

to Chtaura. Turn right at intersectionto Qab Elias and continue southfollowing the Barouk mountain ridgeto the Ammiq Wetland. Continuesouth and you will reach Ammiqvillage where a sign and right turn

lead you to the Eco building and toTawlet Ammiq.

Transport by bus

The easiet way to reach the reserveby public transportation from Beirutfrom Cola station where there arebuses and mini-buses almost every


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Hiking in theReserve

Ecotourism is defined as "responsible travel to natural

areas that conserves the environment and improves

the well-being of local people." (TIES, 1990)


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There are more than 250km of hiking trails in the

Shouf Biosphere Reserve ex-tending from the highest

mountain peaks to the lowest riverbeds designed to satisfy a wide rangeof visitors. There are easy trailswithin cedar forests or medium trailsconnecting different cedar forests orlong trails that link the villages sur-rounding the Reserve. A visitor canhike alone or in small groups, with aguide, along designated trails.

Because every individual should havethe opportunity to enjoy the beautyand grandeur of the Shouf BiosphereReserve, regardless of their physicalhandicap or special needs, a 'specialneeds' trail was established in theBarouk cedar forest in 2012.

Detailed sectional maps of the ShoufBiosphere Reserve are available atall the entrances. More informationabout trails, accommodation,

restaurants, and attractions can befound on the Google Earth Packageand the Ecotourism interactive mapwhich can be downloaded to yoursmart phone or Garmin GPS fromour website:

h t t p : / / w w w . s h o u f c e d a r . c o m /Google-Earth-Package

The Shouf Biosphere Reserve adoptedthe hiking ethics of the LebanonMountain Trail. When you hike pleaseenjoy the wilderness without harmingit and:

Don't hike alone Be prepared for emergencies (fog,

injuries, insect bites, torrentialrain, etc.)

Stay on the trail. Straying from thetrail will harm biodiversity andcan cause erosion

Do not trespass on private property Do not leave any trash behind Leave what you find

Don't pick flowers or fruits Respect wildlife. Don't feed or

harm wildlife Respect local communities and

local traditions Contribute to the economic

development of local communities:hire local guides, stay longer inthe villages, buy food and meals invillages, buy local products, sleepover in local lodging facilities, etc.

Happy hiking!

Ecotourism

Visitors to the Shouf BiosphereReserve are encouraged toremember the followingecotourism principles:

Minimize impact

Build environmental andcultural awareness and respect

Provide positive experiences forboth visitors and hosts

Provide direct financial benefitsfor conservation

Provide financial benefits andempowerment for local people

Raise sensitivity to hostcountries' political, environmental,and social climate


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Barouk Cedar Trails

The Barouk cedar forest is the largestforest in the Shouf Biosphere Reservecovering 400 hectares. The trailboasts a number of fascinating fea-tures such as an observation pointand a hill lake. You can hike on thistrail for 3 to 4 hours and visit refores-tation sites. The Barouk Cedar Forestfeatures a special needs trail with aramp and guide bars for the elderly,wheelchair users, and the visuallyimpaired. The length of the specialneeds trail is 300 meters with a maxi-mum slope of 25 percent.

Maasser Cedar Trails

The Maasser cedar forest is the oldestforest in the Shouf Nature Reservecovering 16 hectares and hosts theLamartine tree where the French poetenjoyed meditating. After a two hourhike amidst the beauty of the forestyou can drive to an overlook above theMaasser entrance for a spectacularview of the west Bekaa, MountHermon, and the Karoun Lake. TheMaasser entrance is wheelchairaccessible and opens onto a viewingarea in the forest.

Trail length: 500 m to 10 km

Difficulty Level: all levels


Difficulty Level: easy to moderate


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Ain Zhalta/BmohrayCedar Trails

The Ain Zhalta/Bmohray forest cov-ers 240 hectares of the Shouf Bio-sphere Reserve and exhibits anamazing level of natural regenera-tion. This trail is well known for birdwatching and includes a hill lake.Between Ain Zhalta and Barouk youcan enjoy a 6 hour hike amongstcedar trees and a fascinating pano-ramic view from the top of themountain.

Niha Fort Trails

The Niha Fort is carved in the rock ofa cliff overlooking the Bisri and theAray valley. From its strategic loca-tion it monitors the road betweenSidon and the Beqaa. This fortress isa cave that is over 100 meters deep. Inpast centuries chambers and roomswere dug to shelter soldiers and it hasabundant water from a rain watercollection system. It also had a con-siderable number of silos for storingprovisions. When you visit the NihaFort you can walk the short scenictrail from the Information Center at

the entrance of the fort where EmirFakhreddine took refuge with hisfamily in the early 17th Century.


Difficulty Level: all levels


Difficulty Level: moderate

FortressRock Hyrax


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Wetland Trail (Ammiq)

The Ammiq wetland that is owned andmanaged by Skaff Estate, covers 100hectares of land and is the lastsignificant wetland in Lebanon theremnant of extensive marshes andlakes that once covered parts of theBeqaa Valley. This natural spotremains an important staging andwintering area for migratory waterbirds between Europe and Africa.

Trail length: 2 km

Total uphill / downhill: 300m/300m

Difficulty Level: Moderate

Barouk River ValleyTrail (Barouk Batloun Moukhtara Amatour Haret Jandal Bater)

The trail begins at the Church of OurLady in Moukhtara, passes throughthe Mamluk bridge of Birket el Aa-rouss, descends and crosses the Ba-rouk river over the Baddeh Bridge tothe western slope of the river valley.The trail continues south on a footpathrecently renovated along the Baroukriver on the left of which is the Baddeh

water mill. It then proceeds to the BouMatar bridge and watermill and up theeastern slopes below the v

Shouf Biosphere Reserve_Field Guide and Information Booklet

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