Seyahatname Part 1

8/6/2019 Seyahatname Part 1

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1. EvUya Celebi .2. His Passion for Adventure _ " ..

4. His Book --. .,-_,.,5. Advice of his father ..6. A Jinnee Story and Famous Wres tles7. Dismissal of Mdck (Angel) Ahmet8 . K ii l! "' thana Pla isance9. O"ath of Kaya Sultana

11. The Ironplle Batt lc ..12. Sophia I The Dabbal:!o~lu Incident .13. Story of a Robber: Kara Anl'dnro~lu14. The Palace o r Abdaj Khan His Bat h15. The People of Tub20n and their Occ

Trabzon's foot and Beverages16. The House of the Wrestlerr7. Malek (Angel) Ahmet Pasha be-comes18. A Revolution ....19. Among the Rebels with Hdseyin A!}a


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VLlYA CELEB 1 was born on the 25thbul. He says he slipped OU I of everylife with ease because of the goodwillhis father who had been at their hom

His father, Mehmet Agha (Dervis Mpart in the conquest of Cyprus duringhad presented the keys of Farnngusrnto the post of chief jeweller in the pfive and in Evliya Celebi' s words "0 g

M'eh met Agha was an art ist and amerit. He undertook the decoration oftan Ahrnet in Istanbul and was sentduring the reign of Sultan Ahmel I.

His mother was related to one of thMe lek Ahrne t Pa sha.

His full name is that of his ramer.ZiI li . Th is world famous t r n v c f l c r w a s.Sultani Evliya Mchmc t Effendi. n f~lma close friend of Dervis M chm ct A gh:traveller.

Celeb] l ikes to describe II irnsclf asbeni adem Evliya-yi bi-riya"


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3

His Passion for AdventureN COMPLETION of his elementary education Evllya entered aMedrese (religious school) and, while trying to master the art ofjewellery from his father, he learned Greek from his father's ap-prentice to wnom ill tum he taught the ~aniai vocabulary.

He listened to many an adventurous story from his father. aman of long years and experience who had served many sultansfrom Suleiman the Magnificent to Ibrahim, and these, coupled withthe things he heard from their numerous guests, lit in him thepassion for foreign lands. "Through heredity many an adventureand experience was passed to your humble servant from his grand-father and father", he writes in explanation of his curiosity.One night be dreamt of the Prophet and instead of saying "Se-faat ya Resulullah" (intercede on my behalf, Oh envoy of God),he said "Seyyahat ya Resulullah" (grant me travel, Oh envoy ofGod).

Evhya Celebi sough! the in terpretatlon of his dream frommany a learned man of the age and gave himself up 10 ruminatingon "how can I free myself from the burden of father, mother.master, brother and see the world?",

First he wandered through Istanbul as, in his own words, a"vagabond pedestrian" and started recording his first impressions.He made these very picturesque by adding his own thoughts forhis imagination was as strong as his passion. Step by step, hesaw the whole of Istanbul until there remained nothing he had notseen nor anyone he had not talked with. He found his way to thecourt of emminent men; he sat and listened in the coffee-shopsand wine shops to story tellers and convents,2

N THE YEAR 1640 he travelled to Bursathat year too he made" se a voyage to Ifather who had lived in court and hadSuitan ana emrninenr statesmen ana a rto the pashas of the period, Evliya Celebito the wish for mundane wealth and posi

Instead of an office, which he could einfluential relatives and friends, he devotedis tan t l ands, to the desire to see the wholewith everybody and learn everything. ThiIstanbul accepted only assignments whichfor their importance, He went to TrabzoPasha when the latter was appointed govFrom there he went to Georgia in Russia,of the Abaza.

In 1641 he took part in the famous Bawent to Crimea with the Khan of Crimea.Is tanbul his ship encountered a. fier ce stormeight months he lay ill in the convent ofpart in the Battle of Crete.

He spent the two years between 1646clerk in Erzurum, to which he had 1ravelDefterzade Mehrnet Pasha. From therc heto parts of Russia and Persia - Tebr-iz. Revannews of his father'S death brought him bafortune he inherited supplied him with e


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BOOK OF TRAVELS 0 )' !WUn CELEB!

him 10 travel comfortably ror the rest of his life. sornerimes accorn-panted by his friends. more often wi t h his slaves. Also the ex-pensive presents he received from those he served and the saleof the beery he won from the various battles in which he parti-cipated provided for himself and his relations in Istanbul.

After settling his family affairs he went to Damascus as theChief MiJe:zzin of Murtaza Pasha who had been appointed Gover-nor there, On his way back to Is t anbu 1 3S a couri er he me t therevolutionaries in Vskildar and took part in the fighting.

As he was searching for means 01 travel from Istanbul hebecame the Chief Miieuin and Accountant of Melek Ahrnet Pashawho was Governor in the western regions of the Ot t ornan Empireand during the next years he rravelled to Sofia, Silistre and allth e c it ie s in mid -Eu rope with him. He participated in the PolishCampaign. In his book he describes at length these cities and theinteresting happenings.

In 1661 after the demise of this Pasha. to whom he was related .he took part in the Austrian campaign of Sultan Mehmet IV.He also participated in the Demirkaztk campaign. He was oneof the envoys to Vienna. From Vien~n.a he embarked on a longjourney into Europe.

In 1667 he returned to Istanbul which he had not seen foreight years. He made contact with the members of his family[rom whom be had long been separated and settled his familyaffairs, But he could live only one year in istanbul. He went 10Edirrie and searched for means of joining the army for the Cretecarnpalgn, He went to Anatolla by land. then passed on to Kan-diye and finally to Morea. He was sixty and. wanting to performhis religious duty of pilgrimage. he traversed with a number ofrri e nds Ih e eas te e n se c lions of An 3toli a an d reac be d C ai r o.

Evliya Celebi travelled from early childhood until the limewhen there was nothing to sec and no one to meet: he learnedand recorded everything, He derived his real source of knowledgeand culture not from education but from life. The desire in himto learn burned until hisIasr days, Li kewise during his long S lnyin Egypt during his old age, he explored the whole coun try whilealso attending lectures by the scholars of the period.

The lost volume of his book is on Egypt and thereafter hedid not write about the Test or his life,

!lOOK Of

As well as. devoting his life to trava call igrapher, decorator, music ian anHe was very fond of all works of art aned or Illuminated. For example, be wathe Jewels of Abdal Khan of Billis bthe ches t con tainin g Ibern.

A man with a beautiful voice and ainstruments Evliya Celeb; could sparehis fifty years of t"vel and consequently

]1 is understood that Evliya Celeb:return from Egypt and according to r happraisals is buried in the family burialzade cemetery,


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His BookIS "BOOK OF TRAVELS" is nearly 6000 pages long. It is writtenin "spoken language". That is to say. he has on the one hand avoidedus in g words and ex pres si ons not used in spa ken Ian g u age -Ihsr ef ra in ing f rom exhjbit in_g his art and kn( )wl~d~, !b -- ~n il , ~ !!!~o ther hand spont aneou s Iy r na de the gr. m m atica I m is tak es oneusually indulges i n c ar el ess col loqui al speech, He spent his en.!re IiFeam on g. s t peopl e who coul d neve r spa re the time fa r read.ing and writing and he made the language of these people hisstyle.

Evl iya < ;" Iebi showed an undying interest in the characterls-tics of the countries in which he journeyed and in the people hemet. This unflagging curicsity and extraordinary ability for ob-serva tion is obvious in h is work. One can read 1here a lcrig anddetailed account of every city. town, mosque, rnedrese, inn, bath,castle. rampart andother ins tallntlons he deemed lmpor tan I .. Healso gives a v iv id account of the wa rs he experienced and 'hecha rac t er ] s rics of the p35ha s an d vez ir s he se rved .

Evliya Celebi was knowledgeable of humans and ob iec is. Hisvolumes covering all his travels. He always refers (0 himself ascriptlons are vivid and distinct. In this way Evl iya


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SOOK OF

"If you have II secret beware of lnot eat If you are polluted."If a thing Is good do not say II I"00 not be D comrade to the malicIf your clothIng be torn do notwearing It.Advance, do not let your eye lingeDo no t l ead the proc ess lon ast ray.Do nol tread on fields. Do no! e.friend.Do not plck up things you do notDo Dot listen when two people coAbide with the right 01 bread andDo not look at another', wife andDo no! go to places you are nothonest people, to plac of whichKeep secrets. At every gaeheringthln~ou may hear.Do not carry word from house 10Refrain from backbi te. from denunhind the backs of or her-s , from goBe decent, Malntaln good relat lonsDo not be stubborn and poisonousDo not go In front of those whoyou.Abide with the wise old man.Be c le an a lways and abstain [rombidden.Perform your rellgtous dutlea fivknown ror your eranqutllty of condself with rnunlrlcent aelcnce.Son, n.1y advice In mundane nffoirslongue. 00 not ask [or wor+dly thnobles you have close ties wtth soand ac co rd you a co ld r ec epti on .Content yoursel f wl th 8mouthful.properly you may come 10 own.LIve modes tly. 'ModeslY Is an Inesay.You may require U In sickness andthe worldly coln for food and clorh

Advice of his Father( On h is f ir st !r-rp EvHya {:'debf g~l!:s t o Bursa wldtGut inlormiPll: hb family

o f l ii .. ~ d.e.prHfr.trt. 0" Jri.J. "elunr 1 1 1 $ fa.lli.e. gr~~B him wUh "Canl !! :, a ll f " - G l I o ! E U ~ rof Bm'sa" 1'J.r!d ,gives lrim SOfP1l! ad""j.c,I!!. Tht . fol lowi ng may uot be 111~ t;u:;I~Qladvrce,bUf it is of siglliflctlrrc.c in o G I . ! I i much as U ts t he t uu lt o f ht l im p"~$i .o r~ j: 0 1 }.t41"lo f t ra ve ls .and e~lut:HCC I,W -HEN YOUR HUMBLE servant returned to his grief-stricken: home that day, kissed the hands of his father and mother and~ stood in their noble presence, his beloved father said. "Welco~e, t ravel le r of Bursa. Welcome" . However nobody had known which

'. I., .~,:;......irection I had taken. "Sire", said your bumble servant, "howdid YDU know your humble servant was in Bursa?" "When youdisappeared on the night of the 'A~ure' of 'Muharrem' one thou-sand and fifty" (May 1640) he condescended to say "many anancient prayer did I say. One thousand times did I repeat the' Inne a ' t ayna' chapter of the Koran. That night I dreamt thatyou were at the tomb of Emir Sultan at Bursa, seeking succourfrom spiri tual influence and begging for world travel wi l h leal'Sflowing from your eyes. That night many a dervish asked andbegged for my consen 1 that you go on your travels. And l. thatnight. gave you my consen I, with the acquiescence of them all.We then spoke the 'Fat iha' chapter of the Koran. Come then.son. Henceforth you are destined 10 travel, Blessed may it be.But I have Same advice", he said and clasped my hand; and as Istood in front of him be began 10w ring my left ear with his lefthand and del ive l' t hese counsel s:

"Son, man may be poor, do not star-t eating without mers-tloning the name of Gild.

B


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lIOOK OF TRAVELS of EVLtYA < ;E l. EB j

-'

or the desplca hie. Beca use: . 'E n emy doe. not r na l Ie ,r onl ybe not In need of' a frIend", they say,I" the pia c es YOIl w all< and vi. II tte the bel t o f endea yoursecure] y aroun d your w als t and con se rve you rs el f.Water' sleep. but the af ten end c ruel enemies do not sleep,VIol! the aalnrs and all the place. of pilgrimage and In allthe lands you vlsll, write In volumes aU about theIr plains,tan mountains , lonely t ree s and "t ones , thelr tOW1\.9 andtheir monumen Is and cas t ie ., their conq ue rn rs and the irfounders and compose a book which will he called "book oftravels", so that your end b. good and you he preservedfrom the malice of your enemtea,May God be your excellent defender and help ..r. May youIn lh e world be glven quart er an d a t your las t brea th fal !h,and may you In the day of resurrection awake beatde thef lag o f t h e Prophe t.Let the se counse ls dwe ll on your ea r Hke pendan t ear -r lngs" ,my ear and sald "Go, In the name of God, may your fatebe good" ,

When your h urn bl B serv an t opened hi5 eye s wi t h the shockof the slap. Io and behold Ou r house was full of light. Wi t hou Idelay I kissed the blessed hand of my (ather and stood in silence.Ibeheld him give me" in a sod die-bag, twelve excellent books andabout two hundred gold coins for my journey.

A jinnee StOl"Y and FamousHE MEDRESE o f Kerna l Pas az ade. forrnedrese is Infested with jinn and nobodyThe cell is empty and the door b arred, TB ! !~ e -! ld ! Ve li . K g .m . - ~ lP.a~'..!.:.ad~b.me.f C:.of scienttfic studies. travels up to Edirne,he arrives at this medre se while seeking qtor a cell from the chief lecturer he is ' givethere are no empty cells in Our rnedrese;one cell which is empty bUI that being infebody is able to enter lt. Those who do enight and in the morning their dead bodiePasazade replies. "My Sultan. grant me thaa lesson [rom your answer". He begs andchief lecturer gives in, saying. "My son. yothe key to the cell. Acquit me of your claiand the chief lecturer mutually forgive oneing the name of God. he opens the door ofsheepskin.

After the late night prayer, the portersplace ou rs i de Kernal Pasazade's cell a benchis washed. a coffin and other funeral equmanded.

At midnight" when Kernal Pasazade waspari of the wall facing Mecca divided in tangel appears holding a beau t lful child in hyou'" he says. and Kernal P a .jazade says "Gr will trust you with my child in the nam


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BOOK OF TRAVELS OF EVUYA < ;ELEBI

teach him science and the regulations of prayers of the five "P"pain ted ri m es of day", he 5ay sand lea ves,

Kern al Pasaza d. whi spers the n am e 0 f God an d teaches t hisinnocent child the Koran and then passes on to his Own work.Before daybreak the old man emerges from the same wall andsays "Son, may the approval of God be with you. May you behappy in this world and the next. I am Sultan Asfall, a ruler ofthe jinn, Every time Icorne to this cell and entrust my son toits inmates and go. But they betray the trust of God and mishan-die my son. and 1 kill them. From now on let all sciences be opento you". he. co r iel 0 des an d , pra ying, takes his ch i l d and leaves.

When early fn the morning Kernal Pasazade opens his doorto go out he sees before him an imam" muezzin and congregationand a coffin and boiling water in readiness, When they see Ke-mal P asaza de they are am azed a nd offer tha n k s to God.

Kemal Pasazade did not reveal his secret to a living soul andruas iered ail ~Llt: sciences anri he was so learned anti wise thathe was the only man of that century.

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7

Dismissal of Melek (

HENCE, !BRAHIM AGHA, Sultan's K.or eighty soldiers, approached the Pashwith us, his Majesty the Suf ran summonsI.._~~ . Ji_ . ~ ~~ ~~ ,~ ~~ ~ ~; ~ 'l ......................................- . . . . . . . .L J . ~ . L''''.' .-~I kiss the: Sultan's feeL Do tell his Mapredicament .... and took out the SCi1.1."Mercy, I have not come [0 ~el !he ssaying r'Now rake ! is Ih cusam l bullioabout my s ta tc" The wa ils and screamwere now reaching the hcuvcus . N(' \Sultan sent his Kupictlar Kcthudas) aPasha, Pasha sa id "1 ca nno t gu p i. ~~life in order to appear before rhc Sultsent the [ourth tirnc said "Do come wharm w iIl come to you. Or vou mustgiving back the seal said "Let b is I\rbjesthen. Let me go to a provincinl s . . . . u cside, they announced II1~n they had rcuthe crowd lo d ispcrsc. The screams ahowever, crescended "\Vc want the su

The Su han gave the Seal [Q SivnvuPalace wi rh a great procession Ihe peopbless J-!OU~ now go


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Kaglthane PlaisanceI \ ; i i " ' - > ; . I ( HILE MY HUMBLE SELF was lodging with Melek Ahmed Pa sha at~,,~ . j' V ,~ Topcular (Artillery) Palace, every evening we used to watch thou-r / ; : ,~ ?l ~ ~~s o~ flr.crac~el:~. reac.bthe S~ Y a~d hear t~e ~ep~r~. of thou-:~; _ " .... ~ ;: ~I II J:=" VL ~'UJI:3~IIU l ~l lfE; :: : . .. . .. .. ~L~r. WB~U .1 '~J.l4UJ.~U Ul- a I't:IJUW man-~:!,_I"J] ::.I; i~'~f-pleasure about this fiest. h. said "Woe to the hopeless fool whohas dissipated his wits, wisdom and yielded to serraw and des

pair __ Why is it that you a re so agg ri eved as not 10 know aboutIGijp!hane? Ever since this Great Ottoman Empire has existed.never bas there been ag"yer and more joyful rea,l than Kiill,t.hane, Anyone who bas not seen this place has seen nothing".

He so much praised Kii!jlthane that my soul swiftly flowedthere and I recalled [his poem :H. piness is r el ls h iug each P I ee .s u r eSo let your heart enjoy thls treasure,LIre Is short my friend. world so unkind,\V lth sorrow and hee r-taches to re mlnd;But only In pleasures you wHl HndSolace, Joy and your peace of mind.Ihen. immediately went and got the Pasha's permission 10

go 10 Kii ll ,t bane , I s pent 4Q gold bullions to buy two kaytrn, foodand drinks and, together wi t h five or six Agas, pitched Our tentsin the shadow of the great oak trees along the Kall,thane river,thus set tling, we started ou r [east of reason and the flow of soul(0 continue day and night.

During (he two months from the beginning of the month ofRecep un til Ihe holy crescent of Ramazan appea rs in the sky

BOOK O

there has been such amuse men ts andfields that no words can fully describe.pr-cd i gal sons of (he plutocrats of Iwith more than three thousand ten tswere illuminated with thousands ofterns. In the evening. the leading gmusiclans, singers, rninst rels and pgroup. Cevahir group, Nazh group, GaZlimrilt group, Postalct group, BatakoSamurka group, who played many tune"Santur", tambour- and "Ud-u Kanun"thousand fireworks adorned the sky wflies. erc., and the entire Kii~,thanesplendour. Guns were fired from dawtents, scattered along 1he IWO banks omore than two thousand shops vendingbut also myriad valuables. Every dayclans, weigir ~ i t l i ' C " ! I . c., l U~II;";~i"iiC"~I~~I,:;.::r~~:;bear. monkey, donkey and dog I ainerand swordeaters about three hundredformed and made great profit. Foursigned by t he pal ac e (0 rna i ntain ordthese Janlssaries used 10 swim in the

Neve'!' in history ther-e has beenmen and scholars,

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BOOK Of

Death of Kaya Sultana

three days the Sultana was sa torturedthat she would welcome deafb. Finallyspread oils on their hands and arms,into her vagina up to their elbows andsaying "Here, Thang God, the placentasaid "There must be some more", inout a piece of skin and things resemblin

Alas, Kaya Sultana diedon the fochild. Just then. all men walting behraring the Harem from the men's quarsealed the doors of all rooms con ta iSultana's body. Then they ordered usent messengers 10 the Sultan and K

At once the negr-o eunuch. the treasPalace and all vizier's came arid ....d;rfisca ted the poor slave-gjrls' dul hcs'iivii.i ~Yi" !.:.;::. f; , . . : , !! ; ::-~~_

..'------------------___(K.a}'(J S~/ f ( j l la IS MC! lo l: k A1Hricd Pashas I IJNe._ She is ~ ry n C ,Q ll ll Y a;tJd ha.J

g i j . J l : J r 1lr),fiJuJ ci!rj and l p - Q J ! 10 ll_l li)"il Ct:kbi. Sire j~ 1 y klml' J 'i f: .y r !~d QmJb l! lo H8S r o ti re ~ o , . . . ( j r family,

The poor Pasha was bewildered,with unseeing eyes. Just then a ;S,]PPtold Pasha ~h : a l aU the: propc rty he h~lthat he had served as a vizic r had beof Kaya.

WENTYsrx DAYS AFTER Melck Ahmed Pasha related his dreamKaya Sultana', pregnancy period was complete, All Sultanas:their Sisters .. those who hove received her grants, those who haveserved her, doctors. midwives all gathered at her quarter" thankedGod, prayed and read 40 Hatrni Serjf', [arty thousand Selavau $".r - t f .each night while Kaya Sultana gave birth 10 a beautiful girlchild.

Pasha stor-med "What would aswords, weap-ons" guns and tiger ."ikin?here tha t is. why they were (cund tillistened to hi m . Thev wok !li s one t houfults of gold. Pash; was O\I(T hi s rapraying. "Be put l ent. God's will pr-evKoprUl ti, sayin~ "the en t irc p rope-tvmiddl e r ower - o r Validc Harum P3J;ce",nothing but an Egypt ian st raboard anddisappcint ment he took a rowboat towent 10 attend Kay" Sultana's [uncral.goods into the boat of tho commanderguard, saying. "They will be placed inPasha c ri ed "Oh men. I'm still alive, mysurrendered rc you nil her propcr ty.there are my own clothes ", Bu t Kdpand replied "The locker. of Harem ore

T1Jal nigh t at the Eyilp Sultan Kiosk and in the city therewere amusements and joyful ga Ihcrlngs until the ne x l morningoLSfUJ ten sacks of gold was given out Jrom the Pasha's trea sur-y.

Kay" Sultana also gave out for-ty snck> of gold and five hun-d red men were gjven cl 0t hcs _

However. tho thing called "placenta" in the mother's wombdid nOI COme out Since Kaya SuI lana was considerably fat. the p lll c, :, nl a r er na l n ed i n t he u t o ru s. Thai nigh I and the followingrnorrung the JOY and happl ness which filled the ci Iy of Eylipturned into sorrow, the Pasha, his rela tions and his men werein distress, Tiley placed Kaya Sultana in rugs and shook andbounced her. Twice tlley hung her upside down then placed he rin a 11000Y barrel filled wi rh the juice of flowers. During the16


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SO aK OF TRAVELS OF EVL IYA CELES I

III,

for her daughter", He then told the men to proceed with thefuneral. Hundred thousand men at the Eylip Sultan Mosk criedand prayed. The Sultana's remains were then placed in the row-boat of the Commander of the Sultan's body-guard, A thousandboats took the scholar s, mini sters and gent lefolk.

This reminded me of an incident which had taken place twoyears before, Melek Ahmed Pasha married Kaya. On the wed-ding night Kaya would not admit Melek to her room, And once,when he insisted, she pulled and lore his beard, He could notgo to the "Kubbe AlII" to attend cabinet meetings until his beardgrew. The situation was grave,

The truth was, that some midwives and fortune tellers sup-posedly had found the Sultana's star and told her "Beware Sul-tana, do not conceive a child from Melek, otherwise you will beharmed, you wi ll di e in childbi rth", Thi s prophecy so fr ightenedthe Sultana that she would not admit the Pasha to her room!~,.!'~~1!~.!! ~~~'!".5_ Q.!!~ ~~!' tMV" .M_nfhpr ~H1t;Jn!l repro~c._hed hersaying "My dear Kaya, why is it that you do not have a child.My pasha is not attending to his duties at the cabinet. Why areyou not with a child?" She then summoned Melek Ahmet Pasha,The Mother Sultana then gave him full permission and that nightKaya Sultana became pregnant.

After nine men ths and ten days, Kaya Sultana gave birth toa girl child, but did not die nor her beauty suffered, She thensent out all midwives and attendants and talked to Pasha inprivacy. But, in the end KaY' Sultana died while giving bi.rthto Melek's child as the fortune tellers had said, I rememberedthis prophecy while we were on the boat and repeated them to thePasha, who said "Yes, that is exactly what happened. This isGod's secret which no scholar man of wisdom have suceeded insolving. The truth is, after seventeen years. she is free now,Death has taken her away. Oh my dear Kaya. my Sultana, mytreasure". Until Bahcekaprsi the poor Pasha wept There, thousands of people carried her coffin on their hands as far as SainiSophia Mask, she was buried beneath the window facing SultanIbrahim Khan and Sult an Must,f. Khan Tomb. Poot Pasha wasdissolved in tears, When he fell upon his wi f e's grave, Koprulusaid "Man, are you not ashamed to shed tears for a woman?Do not grave, Ipromise, Iwil l give you another Sul tana", Melekreplied "I hope to God you won't live 10 keep your promise",18 .

BOOK OF TR

KoprilIli left in anger. The other vizrer.sPalace. My humble s elf stayed at Kayadays 7 nights and read 25 Hatm-i Serif.tanas visiting Kaya's tomb gave me Seventwenty thousand gold coils, seven muskmelfor which Iprayed God to grant these Suprosperity, Yet, each day at the five prayiused to come and have Harm- Serif readand cried "Oh my Kaya, your dream carneme time and again".

The fact is, at that time there werenone of them could get along wi th theiKaya and Melek. The late Sultana wasprudent woman with foresight and intuticnna was yet very young when she diedanyone before Mele .k.


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aoox Of TRA

turn that his balance also Iurned back inturning in front of a hound. The spectatoexclaimed in marvel. We then l earned thropewalking could suddenly turn backrope like Iightntng. He repeated t hi, thwent back to his place. His men then dispe10 gather money. Then ropewalking mastertacarne. He was said to be old master.to the ground in front of the Chief of ropand proceeded to the theatre. All ropewaupon the balance they carry close to theivelek Ali took one end of the balance in hother end pointing down .....rds and spedtators as well as other ropewalkers said tskill. When he reached t he o ther end ofcular style, he changed. the balance to hisst ill pointing do ..... ..... rds, and started .....~.!!,~r'~li"()wd cr-ied "My God bel~ you!' Heextr-a effort or precau lion. cont in ued wahe reached the end of the rope. then kisseof the Fountainhead. The Fountainhead huGod bless you",

",-~---~~~~~~~---~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-....; Ropedancers(Wh fl~ EII IU ,. .~ , !t lebf rj V i r t !j j .d e r 1 .P1 g i l 1 'he :vk.inifY oj Ank~',Q, h~ 1 :" :I~et~11 J . t: l rgi !:

c.-owd of p~ople ~l rhe . v u r . t : l g ~ o f l ., .1 t tmCl [ . R op ed al "l cl !: rs com ir ~g ' tom t !l l r e ' , l 5 : i c m sof ! ttc. country Q(~ sJrowini: I J I oe , r r J;kmJ;. Om' 'LLJtWd_UP ", fih lh~ pwpl~ rh l l ; "! , f ' " I ! ! ,w.atdt~j fhl!:.!;ot ;rr1p~d~I1.ct!,r$j:lJld cf~cyioe~ h! d.!t,al1 tlleir p~r1oTm(Jrrc~).Ar-- -- = '~ LL . , RD .P,EDAN. CERS .agr~ed to. hO~d.a congregal.io.n,a,.,t Is..tan..o . z r i verand at Gediiz fortress In Ana!oJI3, and set up grounds to show and to test their skills. And we, the idle men, went to the river. to watch. Sleep rocks roaching to the blue clouds and lied to. -.. ' One highest peak to another were s trong ropes, Eaoh end of therope reinforced by animal skins so that the rock would not cutthe rope, and posted there were tr-usted men Iully armed to seetha t an enemy does not cut tile ropes while the masters areperforming.

Over and under the rocks walking to and fro were thousandsof men. Down yonder, along the river which flowed throughthe heart of the city. were put up a week before, sofas, places10 sleep, and r-acks. Tents were pi t ched in open spaces. Thosethousands of God's men were standing to watch,

The Meh ter Bend of the Pasha of Ankara played at eachside and after- prayers and pra lses the masters called each otherto the ground of brot herly cornpetl Lion.

The "Fountainhead" Negro Mehmel Celebi took his balancewith a "Bisrn illah' and carne to the start. His voice thunderedand echoed in the mountains and reached the sky_ The GreatMehrnet' \:elebi sped like the wind on that thin rope called thetesting rap" and when he reached the middle, he made such a

Then Master Suca of Ha r-pu [ walkedbalance but with a water jug fuU or water..... ile still holding the ..... t er jugs he divrope. Everyone pi tied him for his fall.no injury and moreover. the water jugs weso artfully that everybody marvelled at hisin front of the Fountainhead wi+h lus hFoun tainhead kissed his hand in praise of

Hasan Zartl of Tokat was a master sewas said that he had performed nerore thetoo, kissed the: Fountainhead' s hand. 'Ihenshoes, a bowl of water ['tdl to the bl"i m avred. full length coat and wirhout a balanceof his ';:O=:1:t, serenely '!,.VOl] ked to [he 01 h~r eturned. Mas[cr Sehrab , wear ing high heacarrying on his back a calf'. with: his balancon the rope. I l certainly ra k es a master'sthin rope wi [h woman's s lipper-s . Arterv.ra

20


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E00 K OF TRAVELS OF EI'LlYA ~ELEE!

walker of Ma!!rip walked blindfolde


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EO OK O F TRA VEL S O F EV LlY A < ;:E J ..EBJ BOOK OF TRAVE

soon as the earth softened they thrusted in the wooden piles andtied the horses. They then tied straw to each horses head. After-wa rd s t hey ent er ed the tents. Seeing this done, the others alsopoured boiling water on the ground and pitched their tents. OnlyGod knows how those servants suffered in this battle, The nextmorning we left the camp. The piles were not removed, Thosewho tried to recover their piles only succeeded in breaking them,Furthermore, it was not possible to fold the frozen tents, so theywere carried open and stiff as they were by porters. The memobers of the Mehler Band were unable to play their instrumentsand many supplies and rations were left behind. Some on horse-back, some On foot, the men proceeded further under the snow-storm and reached a camping ground near a well. There, too, itwas impossible to put up the tents. The Ottoman hisrcrians,therefore, have called this battle the "Iron pile battle". Never inhistory men have suffered from cold and frost as those in thisbattle,

dam of Aristo. May his soul rest in peace.Pasha was killed in the bailie at Erzurumside the Ezirg.n Gate by the Deve . . 'c~ '-.#H~;~,,"(;.;jt=;1 r f " i " " ~ /urnVlJ' ~T ,nreeoars. M~'j treeu, a r r / r r r a . 1 . : ! : dispe.rse arId SJ.lppti.t:s are slol~~ Irom l~nt$, n U t rr ! army r~"dre.s M~lrolr:.a, Soldrers are 8i~en .sllellu and fire. to ,"rdr-tt Butman." meu ar e b li nd ed h .'I I t he fl(Jrrt~s ol the f ir t! . a nd otbers who had .l!H,dured tlltsevere cold betore frl:l:~C rH.'ar Ole tire. On rlH~ lourt lr day the b liuard s lops ( lHdall P~.shct.s TU$/J 1 0 IJf !lp the torrresses. Me" ore ccJJ1lim~o sl>, . a " . f . i :ur e.J1 Ied from Ih~rear alld cne ,h,11 Orrc t J r l ! . castie$. are 9.[l"llctd fmm Ore . eJ1r ,! t . t:I , ) I', WJum Ihe }' Wet .:S .~ t r rg Pep!vi Ca.Hlc, 1(~fe/i Bcki l' " Pasha .c~A'$ 01{ ' li s. [ ir n' U hetJd tJJ1;;i Ir'md.r j, toO.e Grmu.1 Vi~it:''' $(yrJ ,8 Why II1H!e 'yaH been so lali~ to Irdp". In tI~1! (md . tach[ortress is .fQ~ed /I'om enemies and ffQOp.~ TUum 10 lJ~18rade. AlU ,. .a t ll reemomhs /':4$1 Ore 'JUH f"ecqver.).

(E~li.rtJ ~c:J~bi t ell s abc ml Ou Idrc:hcrr it, llu! Palace of f)~/!/!:rdt;u;f,Q.dl! Me lmH! ' . 'Pa.sl , t } w f:rc l I e . ! Ii P I !I : ". 1 ! JQ}t1'(! y I C o n r j.}.

have not seen anywhere else the tasty and delicious dishes atany other Vizier's palace. Only the late Bayrarn Pasha's cuisinecould compere with the artfully prepared delicacies. However,Mehmct Pasha's cuisine was supe ri or i n all its utensil", silver-ware, s ilver saucers, silver trays and platters. There were ahundred piece ceramic set and a hundred piece chinese porcella inset. The napkins with gold monograms as well as gold and silverplated saucer, and jugs rosewater containers, and incense burnerswere matchless in beauty and taste. While Canbolatzade MustafaPasha was the Admiral, during receptions and social gatheringsand dinner parties where I was also present, I saw t hat h e was abrilliant host as well as a brill ian! statesman possessing tbe wis-24

Seyahatname Part 1

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