Sewn With Love

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    sewnwith

    FionaBell

    ClassicPatternsforChildrensClothesandAccessories

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    Button-Through DressThis is a great everyday dress, as it can be worn over jeans

    or leggings to make it more practical. It looks as pretty worn

    with cute clogs or soft pumps for summertime playing as it does

    layered over a long-sleeve T-shirt or with a cozy cardigan for

    colder days in the fall.

    Cotton voile or poplin are ideal fabrics for a summer version

    of the dress, while a soft baby corduroy is a good option for

    a winter version. The contrast of the chambray yoke can lend

    itself to a number of other fabrics, such as denim, corduroy, or

    even a print that contrasts with the main print of the dress.

    MaterialsPaper for pattern

    Plain chambray for yoke and

    button plackets

    Printed cotton voile for main

    body of dress

    6 buttons

    1 in (2.5 cm) wide broidery

    anglaise trim

    Basting thread

    Matching sewing thread

    Sewing machine and sewing kit

    STEP 1

    Making up the yokeWith right sides together, match the notches at the shoulders and pin the

    front pieces to the back. Baste and then machine stitch along the shoulder

    seams with a 14 in (5 mm) seam allowance. Repeat for the yoke lining. Press

    the seams open, then fold and press the bottom of each yoke 14 in (5 mm)

    to the wrong side. With wrong sides together, baste the yoke and lining

    together around the neckline.

    Pin and then baste a length of broidery anglaise trim along the bottom

    edges of the front yoke pieces. Make sure the right side of the top edge of

    the trim is facing the wrong side of the bottom edge of the outer front yoke.

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    4 Playtime

    STEP 3

    Making the button placketsFold and press the short ends of the button plackets 14 in (5 mm) to the wrong

    side. Press the strips lengthwise into thirds, but leave one edge 14 in (5 mm) wider

    than the other. With the right side of the placket to the wrong side of the dress,

    align the raw edge of one placket with the inside edge of one of the front panels

    of the dress. Pin, baste, and then machine stitch with a 14 in (5 mm) seam allowance.

    Flip the folded side of the placket to the outside of the dress, and topstitch down

    both sides. Repeat on the other side of the dress.

    Make six vertical buttonholes down the length of the placket on the right of

    the dress, making the first 12 in (1 cm) from the top and edge, and spacing them

    approximately 238 in (6 cm) apart. Sew six corresponding buttons onto the placket

    on the left of the dress.

    STEP 2

    Making up the skirts and attaching them to the yokeWith right sides together, pin and baste the two front pieces of the skirt to the back

    piece. Machine stitch along the side seams, then overlock the seams or press themopen and finish the raw edges with zigzag stitch.

    Sew two rows of gathering stitching along the top of the back and front pieces of

    the skirt. Do this as follows: Use a long stitch on the sewing machine, or sew running

    stitch by hand, and leave long threads at each end; sew one row of gathering stitching14 in (5 mm) from the edge and a second row 18 in (3 mm) below the first. Hold one

    end of the threads tightly on the same side of the fabric and gather up the material

    until it is the same width as the bottom of the corresponding yoke pieces. Ease the

    fabric gently to evenly distribute the gathers.

    Push the1

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    in (8 mm) seam allowance of the back skirt into the back yoke,between the outer fabric and the lining, and topstitch along the folded edge. Repeat

    on each front panel, making sure the broidery anglaise trim is secured in place when

    you topstitch.

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    Sewn with Love 5

    STEP 4

    Making and inserting the sleevesWith right sides together, pin and baste a length of broidery anglaise trim to the bottom edge

    of the sleeves, then machine stitch

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    in (5 mm) from the edge. Overlock the raw edges, thenfold the seam allowance to the wrong side of the sleeve and topstitch over the fold.

    In the same way as you gathered the skirt (see step 2), loosely gather the cap of each sleeve

    at the shoulder. With right sides together, fit the sleeve into the armhole, aligning the shoulder

    seam on the yoke with the center of the sleeve; pin, baste, and then machine stitch with 13 in

    (8 mm) seams. Overlock the raw edges and then press the seam to the wrong side.

    Fold and press the seam binding into thirds. From the end of the yoke, machine stitch the

    seam binding onto the edge of the armhole, with right sides together. Flip the seam binding to

    the wrong side of the armhole and topstitch along the inside edge of the binding and all the

    way around the armhole, catching the sleeves overlocked seam allowance in the stitching.

    STEP 5

    Finishing the necklineFold and press the trim in half on the cross grain. Fold and

    press one side of the trim 14 in (5 mm) to the inside. With the

    right side of the trim to the inside of the neckline, align theraw edge of the trim with the edge of the neckline and pin,

    baste, and then machine stitch 14 in (5 mm) from the edge. Flip

    the folded side of the trim to the outside of the dress, and

    topstitch around the neckline.

    STEP 6

    Making the pocketsFold and press the rectangular pocket piece in half lengthwise, then press the long

    edges 14 in (5 mm) to the wrong side. Loosely gather the top edge of the curved

    pocket piece so that the width fits into the rectangular piece. Pin and then baste a

    length of broidery anglaise trim along the top of the gathered edge. Fit the top edge

    between the two folded edges of the rectangular portion and topstitch along the

    folded edge.

    Press the 14 in (5 mm) seam allowance to the wrong side of the pocket edge and

    topstitch around the sides and bottom, making sure the two pockets are placed at

    the same distance from the side seams and hem.

    Hemming the dressFold and press the hem 14 in (5 mm) to the wrong side. Fold and press the hem an

    additional 34 in (2 cm) and machine stitch.

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    Sewn with Love 7

    Dirndl skirt

    Dirndl shapes are adored by little girls, and this skirt, made upof four gathered tiers, is nearly a full circle of fabric, making it

    wonderful to twirl around in. It looks great with a pretty printed

    blouse or dressed down with a simple vintage T-shirt. When made

    up in hardwearing denim, it is as useful as throwing on a pair of

    jeans, whereas lighter-weight chambray fabric gives it a prettier

    feel, especially when the hem has been embellished with a pique-

    edge trim, as shown here. This versatile skir t can also be made in

    soft, lightweight twills and baby cord, both printed and plain.

    MaterialsPaper for pattern

    Plain chambray58 in (15 mm) wide pique-

    edge trim

    112 in (4 cm) wide elastic

    Basting thread

    Matching sewing thread

    Sewing machine and sewing kit

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    Construct charming and fashionable childrens clotheswith the

    classic designs of Fiona Bell, the founder of Their Nibs, the popular U.K.-based

    childrens clothing shop and label. An eclectic and unique collection of patterns

    and designs, Sewn with Loveshowcases Fionas well-known work with retro

    styles and prints with a distinct influence from the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s.

    Twenty-five gorgeous projects, from a boys classic shirt and playtime dun-

    garees to a girls pretty party dress and sweet summer pajamas, are ideal for

    sewists eager to dive into classic sewing techniques with contemporary results.

    Divided into four sections (babies, playtime, parties, and bedtime), each pat-

    tern has easy-to-follow instructions and beautiful photography.

    Start sewing with love today!

    Paperback with flaps and CD with full-size patterns, 9 x 9, 144 pages,

    ISBN 978-1-59668-349-5, $26.95, Available October 2010

    Fiona Bell opened Their Nibs, a childrens shop and label with clothes, accessories,and homeware in 2003. Her couture sewing expertise and eye for fashion have allowed

    Fiona to bring her range of gorgeous clothes to online retailers and various stores and

    boutiques around the world, including Mothercare, John Lewis, Harrods, Bon Marche,

    and Avoca. Fiona lives in London, England.

    Tailor your tykeswardrobe with

    25 sweet apparel projects