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Sew iT AllSew iT AllToast Of

The Town


Create a sturdy appliquéd

beverage bag to dress up a

standard bottle of wine or

sparkling cider.

Toast Of The Town

by Jodie Richelle


SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make two beverage bags.

¼ yard each of heavyweight canvas (outer bag) & coordinating print or solid cotton fabric (lining)

8”x12” sheet of coordinating or contrasting felt

Double-sided fusible web

All-purpose coordinating thread

Removable fabric marker

Press cloth

Seam roll (optional)

White & coordinating card stock sheet (optional; for gift tag)

Hole punch (optional; for gift tag)

String or twine (optional; for gift tag)

CUT IT

Download the “cheers” or “thanks” template from sewitallmag.com. Print the chosen word and roughly cut it out.

Adhere a piece of fusible web to the felt rectangle wrong side using the lowest iron heat setting, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Generously pin the word to the felt right side; cut out, leaving the fusible-web paper backing intact (1).

From the outer bag fabric, cut one 12½”x14” rectangle and one 2½”x12” rectangle for the handle.

From the lining fabric, cut one 12”x14” rectangle and one 2½”x12” rectangle for the handle.

SEW IT

Use ¼” seam allowances unless otherwise noted.

Fold the large lining rectangle in half lengthwise with right sides together. Stitch the long raw edge and one short end (this is the lower edge). Clip the cor-ners and press open the seams, using a seam roll if desired.

Align the rectangle lower-edge seam and side seam to box the corners. Draw a line 1½” from each corner (2). Stitch along the marked lines, and then trim the corners ¼” from the stitching (3).

Press the lining upper edge 1½” toward the wrong side.

Align the handle rectangles with right sides together. Stitch each long edge using a ½” seam allowance. Trim the seam allowances to ¼”. Turn the handle right side out; press the seams toward the center so both fabrics are visible.

2.

3.

1.

11/2” 11/2”


Download the Tag Template at sewitallmag.com; print onto white card stock. Cut out the tag front and back.

Cut one circle slightly larger than the front and back tags from coordinating card stock. Sandwich the coordinating circle between the front and back tags; glue each tag in place to secure.

If desired, straight stitch around the tag circles several times for a decorative accent.

Punch a hole in the tag upper-edge center. Insert twine or string through the hole, and tie the tag to the handle.

Write your name on the tag after “from” and the first recipient’s name after “to.” Insert a bottle of wine or sparkling cider into the bag and let the gifting begin.

Pass it OnAttach a gift tag that lets the recipient know that the bag is meant for regifting.

Place the lining on a flat work surface with the wrong side facing out and the seam centered. Pin the handle ends ¾” above the upper raw edge at each bag side; stitch (4).

Place the outer fabric right side up with the long edges running horizontally. Remove the felt-word paper backing. Center the felt word on the outer bag; fuse using the lowest heat setting and a press cloth (5). Straight stitch or free-motion stitch the word to the outer fabric.

Fold the outer fabric in half lengthwise with right sides together and the first letter of the appliquéd word as the lower edge.

Stitch the outer bag per the lining bag, boxing the corners and folding the upper edge toward the wrong side. Turn the bag right side out; press.

Insert the lining into the outer bag with right sides together, aligning the seams. Pin the upper edges; stitch, extending the handles beyond the bag upper edge. e

(Tip)Instead of using a seam roll, insert a

paper towel roll into the bag rectangle to press open the seams.

(Tip)To reveal the lining fabric along the bag upper edge, fold the outer-bag upper

edge 1¾” toward the wrong side after stitching.

4.

5.

Front

Back

Toast of the Town

8to feather your nestPAGE 46

CAROLINE HULSE CAROLINE HULSEmeet designerCAROLINE HULSE

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CAROLINE HULSECAROLINE HULSECAROLINE HULSEPAGEPAGE 18 18

make her darling kimono jacket! (and get the VIDEO HOW-TO at shop.sewdaily.com)

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PAGE 1 OF 3visit shop.sewdaily.com for more patterns

chicken scratch apronby kathy augustine

FOR EXPLANATIONS OF TERMS + TECHNIQUES USED

CLICK HERE FOR OUR SEWING BASICS ONLINE

You don’t need a yard full of egg-laying hens to appreciate this apron. The nostalgic cross-stitching technique for which the apron is named personalizes it and makes it a keepsake for future generations.

FABRIC— 1 yd 1/4" woven gingham

OTHER SUPPLIES— 3 yd rickrack, ½" — Three skeins embroidery floss — Hand embroidery hoop — Sharp, long-eyed hand-sewing

needle

FINISHED SIZEWaistband: 16¾" wide; length: 21"

NOTES— For accuracy in cutting and sewing,

follow the lines of the gingham checks.

— Seam and hem allowances vary. Refer to directions.

— Pressing throughout construction steps will improve finished results.

EMBROIDERY TIPS— Work the stitches with three strands

of floss. For best results, before threading the needle, separate the strands, allowing the three threads to untwist. When embroidering cross-stitches, hoop fabric whenever possible for even tension.

PHOTOS BY LARRY STEIN

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chicken scratch apronPATTERN STORE

— Cross all Xs in the same direction. Completing each X individually in this pattern can help to avoid long thread carries on the back of the project that can snag during wear. In this design, the Xs are stitched in the darkest gingham blocks.

CUT THE FABRIC1 Cut the apron pieces (Skirt, Waistband, Pocket, and Tie) according to figures 1 and 2 using the ¼" gingham squares as a guide. Note: It is easier to first cut a rectangle for the apron Skirt and then mark and cut the stair-step edges. For the proper placement of the gingham squares for embroidery, pay close attention to color placement (dark versus light gingham stripes) when cutting out the pieces. Cut the following:— One Skirt rectangle:

84 blocks × 149 blocks — One Waistband: 75 blocks × 20 blocks— Two Ties (mirror images):

14 blocks × 108 blocks— One Pocket: 19 blocks × 20 blocks

PREPARE THE APRON PIECES2 Press under a ¼" hem (one gingham block) on the stair-step edges of the Skirt, clipping inside corners as needed to turn. Tuck half of the width of the rickrack under the pressed edge; topstitch the hem in place from the right side, catching the rickrack.

3 Press under a double 1/8" hem on the Tie’s long edges and one tie end. Stitch.

4 Press under 1/4" along the Pocket upper edges. Finish the upper Pocket edge with rickrack in the same manner as for the Skirt. Turn under the exposed rickrack ends and whipstitch (see Sewing Basics). Press under ¼" on the remaining Pocket edges.

EMBELLISH THE APRON5 Following figures 1 and 2, cross-stitch the Pocket, Waistband, Tie, and Skirt.

APPLY THE WAISTBAND6 Press under ¾" (three gingham blocks) on one long edge of the inside waistband (opposite the cross-stitched side).

7 Stitch a double row of basting stitches within the Skirt upper seam allowance. Pin-mark the center of the upper Skirt and Waistband. Gather the Skirt to fit the Waistband, matching centers and evenly distributing gathers. With right sides together, stitch the Skirt to the Waistband using a ¾" seam (three gingham blocks).

figure 1

cente

r fr

ont

pocketplacement

skirt

gather within seam allowancewaistband edge

CROSS-STITCH Working from right to left, bring the needle up at 1, insert at 2, then bring the needle back up at 3. Finish by inserting the needle at 4. Repeat for the desired number of stitches.

1

2

3

1

2

3

4

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chicken scratch apron

8 Fold and stitch two pleats on each unfinished Tie end as marked.

9 With the Tie right side against the cross-stitched portion of the Waistband, stitch a 3/4" seam. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

0 Turn the Waistband right side out and press the upper edge along the fold line, following the line of gingham checks. Slipstitch the inside folded edge over the joining seam.

- Place the pocket on the apron skirt following figure 1. Topstitch from dot-to-dot to secure.

SOURCESFABRIC Riley Blake Designs, 1/4" Medium Gingham, C450-20 Aqua, rileyblakedesigns.com

KATHY AUGUSTINE lives in Palmerton, Pennsylvania, and frequently dons her apron while baking treats for family and friends. Her vintage apron collection is a tie to the past that honors the women of yesterday, like her grandmother, whom she remembers as always wearing an apron while reading the daily newspaper to protect her clothes from ink smudges. Besides cooking and sewing for her husband and daughters, Kathy also knits, weaves, spins, and dyes.

figure 2

waistband

tie

pocket

fold line

pleat

pleat



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vintage patched coastersby barb brown



Vintage linens have much to offer the creative sewist, despite age stains and holes from daily use or improper storage. This simple project rescues your family’s textiles and highlights some of their finer features–like hand-stitching, whimsical prints, and textural barkcloth–to bring a piece of the past into your current home.

FABRIC (FOR FOUR COASTERS)— Main: Scraps (or fat eighths

[9" × 22"]) of four vintage textiles (or new fabrics)

— Heat-resistant fabric: fat eighth (9" × 22")

— Backing: fat eighth (9" × 22") quilting-weight cotton

OTHER SUPPLIES— Rotary cutter, self-healing mat, and

clear acrylic ruler— Matching thread

FINISHED SIZE4" × 4" square

NOTES— All seam allowances are 1/2" unless

otherwise noted.— If your vintage textile has

embellishments, like an embroidered flower, pay attention to the placement, both when cutting the


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vintage patched coastersPATTERN STORE

fabric and arranging the blocks. Once sewn together, the square is turned inside out, so it is important that the featured embellishment is face down when being sewn.

CUT THE FABRIC1 From the Main fabrics, cut:— Four 5" × 5" squares of each; label

fabrics as (A), (B), (C), and (D)

2 From the Heat-resistant fabric, cut:— Four 5" × 5" squares

3 From the Backing fabric, cut:— Four 5" × 5" squares

ASSEMBLE THE COASTER TOPS4 Separate the Main fabrics into four stacks, each consisting of one 5" square of each fabric: (A), (B), (C), and (D).

5 With wrong sides together, fold the squares of the Main fabrics in half and press.

6 Using the first stack of folded Main fabrics, place Fabric (A) along the bottom edge of an imaginary square, with the fold facing inward toward the center of the square. (figure 1)

7 Place Fabric (B), fold facing inward, along the right edge of the square, overlapping one half of Fabric (A).

8 Place Fabric (C), fold facing inward, along the top edge of the square, overlapping one half of Fabric (B). (figure 2)

9 Place Fabric (D), fold facing inward, along the left edge of the square overlapping one half of Fabric (C), and then tuck the second half of Fabric (D) under Fabric (A). This makes one square of interlocking fabrics. (figure 3) Note: The different fabrics should be snug to one another in the center.

0 Repeat for the remaining three stacks of Main fabrics. (figure 4)

- Place one 5" square of Backing fabric, right side together, with the interlocked squares (it is best not to move them until they are pinned together), and then add one 5" square of Heat-resistant fabric on top. Pin the squares together through all layers,

being sure that the folded Main fabric pieces have not shifted. Repeat for the other three coasters.

FINISH THE COASTERS= Stitch around each square. Trim the corners to reduce bulk.

q Turn the stitched stacks right side out through the interlocked squares, gently poking out the corners. Adjust the fabric positioning as needed, and steam press to shape.

BARB BROWN is an assistant editor at Quilting Arts magazine. Her favorite hobby is rescuing and recycling vintage textiles. Visit her at thevintagethread.com.

A

figure 1

A B

C

figure 2

A B

CD

figure 3

figure 4

A A

A B

B

C

CD



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springtime roman shadeby karen schaphorst



A roman shade is the perfect window treatment for traditional or modern décor with its clean lines and tailored look. The fabric hangs in neat symmetrical folds. This classic design is updated with a 2-inch-wide, contrasting band for a decorator’s touch.

FABRIC— Main fabric suggestions: 54"–60"

home decorating fabrics such as cotton, linen, damask, or broadcloth. Stripes and plaids work; not suitable for diagonals. To determine the amount of fabric needed, follow the process below.

YARDAGE REQUIREMENTS (FOR WINDOWS UP TO 52" WIDE):Determine whether the shade will be mounted inside or outside the window frame. (figure 1) _________________Record your measurements here:For inside mount:Measure side to side, inside the window frame. __________ Measure length of finished shade inside the window frame. __________+4”=________. (This is the cutting length.)For outside mount:Measure side to side, across the outside of the window frame. ______________ +1"=_____________Measure desired finished shade length from top of window frame.


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springtime roman shadePATTERN STORE

__________+5”=________________ (This is the cutting length.)To determine correct yardage for either mounting, divide cutting length by 36”. ____________ — Contrast: Purchase the same amount

for trim bands. — Lining, 54"–60": Purchase the same

amount.

OTHER SUPPLIES — 1/2" plastic rings — Shade cord — Cord lock or pulley — Screw eyes — Cord drop (a holder that will cover

the ends of the pull cords)— 1/2" metal rod (flat or round), 2"

shorter than finished shade width — 1/2" wood slat, 1" shorter than

finished shade width — 1" × 2" mounting board, finished

width of shade (can be painted or covered with fabric for a more finished look)

— Screws and anchors for mounting — L brackets (for outside mount only)— Stapler and staples — Removable fabric marker — Ruler and/or T-square— Fabric glue

NOTES— All seam allowances are 1/2" unless

otherwise noted.

CUT THE FABRIC1 From the Main fabric, cut:— One rectangle, finished length plus

4" × width measurement minus 3".

2 From the Contrast fabric, cut on the lengthwise grain:— Two side bands, 5" × finished length

measurement plus 6"— One lower band, 5" × finished width

measurement plus 1"

3 From the Lining, cut:— One rectangle, finished length plus

5" × finished width

SEW THE SHADE4 With wrong sides together, press all banding strips in half lengthwise. Stitch side bands to the Main shade panel side edges, right sides together. Press seams toward the bands.

5 Pin the lower band to the lower edge of the shade, right sides together. Band ends will extend 1/2" on each side of the pressed fold. Stitch between pressed lines.

6 Press under 1" double hems on the side bands. Press a 1" double hem in the lower band and press under seam allowance at ends.

7 Press under a 4" hem on the lower edge of the Lining. Stitch a 11/4" tuck in the lining from the pressed fold. Press tuck downward. Note: This tuck will hold the weight rod.

8 Lay the shade out on a flat surface, wrong side up. Open out the side and lower bands, and place the Lining on top of the shade right side up. Lining should not extend beyond the band fold lines. The bottom of the Lining tuck should fall at the top of the lower band. Reposition the bands. Hand-stitch across the top pressed edge of the lower band, keeping the tuck free.

MARK AND ATTACH THE RINGS9 To mark for ring placement, smooth the shade out on a table, lining side up.

0 Using a fabric marker and ruler, mark the first row 5" from the bottom edge and 3/4" from each side. Rings should be 8"–12" apart horizontally and 6" apart vertically. Stop about 10" to 12" from the upper

edge. (figure 2) Make sure all markings are even and straight. Pin through both layers of fabric.

- Attach rings by machine or hand-sew through all thicknesses. The rings on the sides will secure the bands, or glue or hand-stitch in place if you prefer. Note: To attach rings by machine, use the widest zigzag stitch and lower the feed dogs. Stitch over each ring. To hand-stitch, make small stitches using a double strand of thread, stitching in place through all layers.

FINISH THE SHADE= Smooth the shade right side up, measure the finished length of the shade, and press a crease at the upper edge for mounting. Trim away excess fabric, making sure to leave 11/2" for the board mounting. Finish the upper edge with zigzag or serging.

Fig 1

figure 1

outside mount

inside mount

outs

ide

lengt

h

insi

de le

ngt

h

Fig 2

figure 2

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springtime roman shade

q With the lining side up, bring the first row of rings toward you. Press.

w Fold up the next row of rings to stack on top of the previous row. Press. Continue folding and pressing each row.

MOUNT AND STRING THE SHADEe Place the shade right side down on a flat surface. Staple the top edge of the shade to the mounting board, keeping the creased line on the edge of the board.

r Attach screw eyes on the underside of the mounting board, aligning them with each row of rings.

t Slide the wood slat into the bottom band of the shade. Slipstitch the open ends closed.

y Open up one side hem at the tuck and slide the metal rod into the tuck. Replace the tuck under the side hem.

u Decide from which side the draw cord will hang. Install the cord lock or pulley following the manufacturer’s instructions.

i Beginning at the first vertical row of rings opposite the draw side, tie the cord to the bottom ring. Run the cord through the rings from bottom to top and across the shade through the screw eyes and into the cord lock. Extend the cord the desired distance down the draw side of the shade. Continue for each row. (figure 3)

o Secure the knots at lower edge with glue. Pull up the slack and insert cord ends through the cord drop. Knot and glue ends.

INSTALL THE SHADEp To mount the shade inside the window, pre-drill screw holes through the board. Position the shade on the window and drill into the frame. Note: For outside mount, position an L bracket at each end of the mounting board and screw into the board. Hold the board above the window and mark for desired placement. Remove L brackets from the board. Secure the brackets to the wall at markings. Place the shade on the brackets, aligning pilot holes, and attach.

KAREN SCHAPHORST began her career in New York City working for various pattern, fabric, and sewing machine companies. She has authored several books on sewing for the home, sewing machine use, and sewing tip books. Currently she has a home-based window treatment and home fashions business. She resides in Charlotte, North Carolina.

Fig 3

figure 3

pulley

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