SD MONOGRAPH - VERSACE

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The Monography series was created with the intention of offering a complete photographic documentation of the fashion of the Third Millennium by examining the entire collection of fashion designers more significant either for the history and the fashion market. First volumes to be published: 1 - Chanel - Women Ready-to-Wear Collections 2001> 2010 - 392 pages 2 - Versace - Women Ready-to-Wear Collections 2001> 2010 - 312 pages 3 - Dolce & Gabbana - Women Ready-to-Wear Collections 2001> 2010 - 376 pages Format: 24.5 x 33 cm Note: Each volume contains 20 complete collections of prêt-à-porter, which were presented by the P / E 2001 to 'A / W 2010/11, each accompanied by a descriptive text The series will consist of over 30 volumes which will be released 3 per each season.

Transcript of SD MONOGRAPH - VERSACE

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    T H E B E S T O F T H I R D M I L L E N I U M

    MO NOGRAPHY

    10YEARS

    VERSACE2001>2010R E A DY- TO - W E A R WO M E N C O L L E C T I O N S

  • If Gianni Versace was, as Oliviero Toscani

    affirms, the champagne of Italian fashion,

    a bubble of creativity in the explosive ye-

    ars of Milanese ready to wear, his sister Do-

    natella could be dubbed the mojito of the

    2000s: bold, aphrodisiacal flavours, with

    an alcoholic strength to make your head

    spin. The first ten years of the new Millen-

    nium see the affirmation of the youngest of

    the Versace siblings at the creative helm of

    the brand, having taken over such a prolific

    yet burdensome legacy following her bro-

    thers murder. The muse of Versace style sin-

    ce its inception, Donatella grasps the reins

    of the Medusa underlining the iconic traits

    of her feminine style more and more each

    year: blonde, sexy, sculpted in sinuous and

    boldly coloured silhouettes. Her style insists on

    bright colours, jungle prints, tight leather, po-

    wer suits and fatal heels (both for men and

    the models wearing them on the runway).

    With Donatella the brands links with Hollywo-

    od and the music scene just get stronger: from

    Elton John to Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow

    to Halle Berry, all the international stars flock

    to the Versace atelier to choose what to wear

    on the red carpet, and often attend Donatel-

    las glamorous parties after the event. Its no

    coincidence that the Versace women in 2000

    walk the runway to Vicious by Lou Reed wea-

    ring bad trenches over dangerous mini-dres-

    ses, a little like Sharon Stone in Basic Instinct.

    Donatellas impact is strong and the whole

    world is watching, so much so that a March

    Se Gianni Versace stato, come afferma Oli-

    viero Toscani, lo champagne della moda

    italiana, tutto una bollicina di creativit negli

    anni esplosivi del prt--porter milanese, sua

    sorella Donatella potrebbe essere definita

    il mojito degli anni 2000: sapori vitaminici,

    afrodisiaci, con una grinta alcolica da far

    girare la testa. I primi dieci anni del nuovo

    Millennio vedono infatti laffermazione della

    pi giovane di casa Versace alla guida cre-

    ativa del marchio, portatrice suo malgrado,

    dopo lassassinio del fratello, di una eredit

    tanto feconda quanto pesante da sostenere.

    Musa dichiarata dello stile Versace fin dagli

    esordi, Donatella prende le redini della Me-

    dusa sottolineando ogni anno di pi i tratti

    iconici del suo modello femminile: biondo,

    sexy, scolpito da silhouette sinuose e sgar-

    gianti di colori shocking. Il suo lessico stilistico

    insiste sulla tavolozza accesa, sulle stampe

    jungle, sulle pelli fascianti, sul tailleur di po-

    tere e sui tacchi fatali (per gli uomini e per

    le modelle che li indossano in passerella).

    Con Donatella inoltre si consolidano i rappor-

    ti della maison con il mondo hollywoodiano

    e musicale: da Elton John a Jennifer Lopez,

    da Gwyneth Paltrow a Halle Berry, le star del

    palcoscenico internazionale passano dalla-

    telier Versace per decidere cosa indossare sul

    red carpet e spesso dopo levento terminano

    la serata ai glamour party di Donatella. Non

    a caso le Versace women del 2000 sfilano

    sulle note di Vicious di Lou Reed e indossano

    trench cattivi su miniabiti pericolosi, un po

    introduction

  • 2001 list published in the Wall Street Journal

    of Europes most influential women has her

    in fourth place. Nothing if not confident,

    she is not intimidated by the attacks on the

    Twin Towers or the subsequent chastened

    climate that affects all markets and mo-

    ods: the creative director of the Medusa re-

    mains steadfast and her collections beco-

    me increasingly fetishist, with so many laces

    and strings woven into plunging necklines.

    In October 2002 the talent of Gianni Versace

    returns to the spotlight thanks to a major re-

    trospective at Londons Victoria & Albert Mu-

    seum. This exhibition, comments his sister,

    makes Giannis dream live on, it is both pain-

    ful and beautiful. After revisiting her brothers

    clothing, sparkling with gold and sequins, at

    times applied to the geometry of a Greek

    goddess, it is almost inevitable that a casca-

    de of crystals and golden chains features in

    Donatellas collections, on impalpable eve-

    ning dresses and nappa leather jackets that

    fit like a second skin. Yet little under a year la-

    ter it emerges that the brand is making losses.

    To redress the balance, Giancarlo Di Risio, a

    manager with experience at Fendi and IT Hol-

    ding, immediately implements sweeping cost-

    cutting measures and sells some real estate.

    Perhaps unaware of this new austerity, the

    Versace woman remains a pink doll playing

    at punk in aluminium stilettos: she is by now

    an icon, a glamour touchstone that, season

    after season, must sustain the eyes and ex-

    pectations of the fashion and showbiz world.

    This obsessive attention focuses on Donatel-

    la and worsens her addiction to stimulating

    substances, so much so that in the summer

    of 2004 the designer is convinced by certain

    close friends, including Elton John, to check

    into a rehab clinic in Arizona. When she re-

    turns, she is more ironic and clear-headed.

    Backstage at her show she thanks those who

    alla Sharon Stone di Basic Instinct. Limpat-

    to del personaggio Donatella forte e tutto

    il mondo le punta gli occhi addosso, tanto

    che una classifica del marzo 2001 pubblica-

    ta sul Wall Street Journal la posiziona al quar-

    to posto tra le donne pi influenti dEuropa.

    Sicura del suo verbo, non si lascia intimidire

    dallattentato alle Torri Gemelle e dal clima

    morigerato che si diffonde subito dopo su

    tutti i mercati e gli umori mondiali: la direttri-

    ce creativa della Medusa si mantiene salda

    al timone e le sue collezioni si fanno sempre

    pi fetish, con tanto di lacci e stringhe da in-

    trecciare su scollature senza mezzi termini.

    Nellottobre 2002 torna sotto i riflettori il talen-

    to di Gianni Versace grazie alla grande retro-

    spettiva che gli dedica il Victoria & Albert Mu-

    seum di Londra. Questa mostra commenta

    la sorella - fa rivivere tutto il sogno di Gianni,

    insieme dolore e bellezza. Dopo aver rivisto

    gli abiti del fratello, luccicanti di oro e paillet-

    te, magari applicate sulle geometrie di una

    greca, quasi inevitabile che una cascata di

    cristalli e catene dorate si riversi sulle collezio-

    ni di Donatella, su abiti da sera impalpabili

    e giubbini di nappa traforata asciutti come

    una seconda pelle. Ma poco meno di un

    anno pi tardi emerge che i conti non qua-

    drano perch le spese superano gli incassi.

    A raddrizzare la situazione arriva Giancarlo

    Di Risio, un manager con esperienze presso

    Fendi e IT Holding che subito mette mano a

    un piano industriale di riduzione dei costi e di

    vendita di alcune propriet immobiliari. Forse

    inconsapevole di questa nuova austerit, la

    donna Versace resta una bambola rosa che

    gioca con lo stile punk e non rinuncia allo sti-

    letto in alluminio: ormai unicona, un punto

    di riferimento del glamour che deve sostene-

    re, stagione dopo stagione, lo sguardo e le

    aspettative del fashion world e dello showbiz.

    Unattenzione ossessiva che si riversa su Do

  • 9

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  • stood by her during her treatment and de-

    dicates the show to Richard Avedon, who

    had recently passed away. Two events mark

    the first few months of 2005: firstly Giannis

    art collection is auctioned, along with furni-

    ture from the Milan house in Via Ges, and

    secondly the new advertising campaign

    shot by Mario Testino. Over 150 pieces inclu-

    ding furniture, paintings and silverware once

    again testify to the flair of the sadly missed

    designer, his search for luxury and his enthu-

    siasm for all manifestations of beauty and ar-

    tistic creativity. Demi Moore is the testimonial

    of Versace A/W 2005.06, designed for a wo-

    man who is fully aware of her seductive po-

    wer and dresses to make that very statement.

    In September, while Milan is brought almost to

    a standstill by the concentration of shows, the

    Casa Casuarina in Miami, where Gianni Ver-

    sace was killed in 1997, opens to the wealthy

    public as a luxury hotel. Another monument in

    the Medusa myth thus exits the collective ima-

    gination. But the following February Donatella

    reopens the boutique-palace on Fifth Avenue,

    embraced by her VIP friends (J-Lo, Halle Berry,

    Cindy Crawford, Rupert Everett, to name but

    a few). Afterwards, a dinner with close friends

    is held in an apartment in the One Beacon

    Court Building overlooking Midtown, where

    once again traffic gridlock ensues. Then, in

    September 2006, the Versace Teatro opens in

    Piazza Vetra, built in place of the Alcione cine-

    ma after a 4 million Euro restructuring project.

    It will be the backdrop for the brands fashion

    shows, but also the ideal venue for cultu-

    ral initiatives, exhibitions and other events.