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Le Corbusier Charlotte Perriand

Jean Prouve

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Contents Page

Introduction 4

Concept & Design Inspiration 5 - 9

Brand Values 10 - 11

Range Overview 12 - 16

Consumer 16 - 17

Retail Position 18 - 20

Market Position 21 - 22

Competitors 23 - 24 Supply Chain 25

Initial Design Development 26 - 27

Bibliography 28 - 29

Critical Path 30 - 33

Survey 34 - 35

Concept Development by Miryam Lozano LOZ10311735Word count 4.175

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‘QUALITY IS BEAUTY AND FUNCTIO-NALITY’

‘Quality’ is a word we struggle to des-cribe; is ‘quality’ simply an investiga-tion into what is good? In-order for a product to be a product of ‘quality’ it must be both beautiful and functional at the same time. A fine balance of the two must be created and in-order to do this one must do the research. To fur-ther develop the SANTAL 36 concept it is imperative we look to both primary and secondary sources of research. Not only investigating past masters, artists and craftsman in various fields but also conducting surveys and exploring the current market through questionnaires and consumer research. Only then can we really create the best possible range of products.

Cabinet on base, ca. 1939.Charlotte Perriand (French, 1903–1999)Aluminum, pine, and walnut

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Name: Chairs Les ArcsDesigner: Charlotte PERRIANDProducer / year: ca. 1960. No longer in productionDescription: Set of 4 chairs with tubular steel frame, chrome, with leather seat and back.

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CONCEPT

SANTAL 36’s core belief is that the new, modern consumer’s needs have dramatically changed. Due to changes in the economic and environmental landscape people are now more likely to make thoughtful purchases rather than the impulsive buying habits of the past. Consumers want to make investments, thinking about the quality and longevity of a product before taking the decision to buy. SANTAL 36’s capsule collection aims to provide timeless style creating pieces that transcend ‘trend’ led buying and instead drive sales through greater innovation. In a market where technology is fast becoming the ‘must have’ accessory SANTAL 36 aims to provi-de multifunctional pieces that not only compliment each other but can also work together to create a whole item that keeps up with technological advancements. Why purchase simply a handbag when you can purchase one item that combines the uses of a handbag with that of a detachable purse, I-pad holder and make-up bag all in one?

SANTAL 36 respects tradition of craftsmanship above all and so is determined to keep a ‘hand made’ feel throughout its pieces. By creating products that are quality focused it is also imperative that the pieces have a timelessly stylish design meaning a longer pro-duct lifespan. In-order to create a timelessly stylish design SANTAL 36 has looked to styles from the past. Picking ideas and influences from history that I feel remain as vibrant and stylish today as they were in their original form.

"Never design anything that cannot be made" Jean Prouvé

Jean Prouvé

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DESIGN INSPIRATION

“… after all, design is about responding to the gestures of the hu-man being. Then there is a side even beyond this, which has to do with a sort of harmony with oneself, with one’s environment; this kind of awareness affects everything.” (Interview between Hendel Teicher and Charlotte Perriand publis-hed in ArtForum in summer 1999.)

By investigating the interior of a handbag we can begin to think about it as a space not dissimilar to that of a home or office inte-rior. It is a space, which needs to not only have functional storage solutions but also incredible architecture. With this in mind the work of the Parisian designer and architect Charlotte Perriand and that of other leading modern architects and the avant-garde are considered the perfect influence and so are closely explored.

Jean Prouvé

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FUNCTIONAL, VERSITILE, TIMELESS.

The design for SANTAL 36’s capsule collection was founded from the looking and mostly criticising of the current pro-ducts on the market. Looking at current trends in bags and accessories and thinking of ways they could be modified or changed in-order for the owner to have a better perso-nal experience when using them. The modern woman has very little time and needs to be prepared for all eventuali-ties. We can see from my survey (see Appendix) that over 84% of females consider their bags to be important. She doesn’t just need a large bag but one that is organised and has specific pockets and compartments for specific items. Often men’s accessories deal with this problem in a more efficient way. Why could not SANTAL 36 be about combining the beauty of women’s accessories with the harder more functional, versatility of men’s and altogether create a uni-sex range?

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CHARLOTTE PERRIAND (1903-1999)

Charlotte Perriand and her contemporaries such as Le Corbusier, Pierre Jeanneret and Jean Prouve believed that great design cen-tred on creating functional living spaces, that good design helped to create a better person and with that a better society. They ex-perimented with taking apart the structure of things that already existed, re-examining it and paring it down, whilst also paying close attention to its beauty. These designs of the avant-garde period I believe have stood the test of time and are still as attrac-tive in today’s society as they ever were originally. If anything I believe they almost predicted the way society was going to chan-ge, that people would begin to desire things that were stripped back and simple, useful and functional. I began by taking apart the individual pieces of accessories and modifying and adding to them in-order that when they were placed back together would create a better overall product.

The avant-garde designers experimented with the use a nd the beauty of different materials and after ending her collaborations with Le Corbusier and Pierre Jeanneret Charlotte Perriand turned away from steel and glass and began working with more rustic, traditional materials such as wood, cane and later bamboo. This information heavily inspired the designs for SANTAL 36’s capsu-le collection. Could more natural, raw materials be used to create beautiful accessories using vegetable tan leather, canvas and even wood?

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BRAND IDENTITY AND VALUES

SANTAL 36 is a London based contemporary brand. It is signature is not only great design but the use of sustainable materials inclu-ding: Veg Tan Leather, Pony Skin and Laminated wood look leather. This environmentally friendly capsule collection is hand crafted with the most natural and non-treated cattle hides. Implementing the ancient processes of leather finishing using oak bark and olive oil. Alongside the leather is the panelled wood look laminated leather sourced from Italy – a signature material in the collection. SANTAL 36 offers the consumer versatility, the consumers inte-raction and the ease of interaction with the piece are a core value to the brand. All pieces from the collection have parts that can be added or removed from the item to adhere to the customers wants and needs at that time. From the survey I carried out you can clearly see that a higher percentage of people want their handbag to be functional above anything else. (See Appendix) When used everyday the piece will begin to exalt more of its specific and perso-nalised nature.

BRANDING

The on-body branding on the pieces within the range is intended to be rather understated and simple. I believe that the materials used and the products sustainability will be more of the brands selling point and will also make the pieces instantly recognisable as tho-se of SANTAL 36. As with all things SANTAL 36 the Logo is simple and understated using only a heat stamp pressed onto the leather so that it makes a simple yet effective mark and brand. Mintel re-search carried out in 2011 informs us that ‘in recent years consu-mers are less likely to purchase something which is heavily branded finding it to be somewhat vulgar’.The only other information applied to the range is the ‘Made in Great Britain’ stamp, which will be present in all pieces within the range.

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TIMELESSFUNCTIONALARCHITECTURALESSENTIALVERSATILITY

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RANGE OVERVIEW

OUTER

SANTAL 36’s S/S 2013 Capsule Collection has all the elements of functionality and natural beauty. It belongs in the new world, a world where pieces are reversible and all compartments are deta-chable and changeable. It offers the consumer a new way of ex-periencing and refreshing there purchases. Maybe an I-pad holder that fits inside can be purchased on another day? It is the filofax of accessories! Necklaces are no longer simply fashionable items that ‘look good’ they take on a whole new useable dimension where se-cret and visible pockets are contained.

Using Vegetable Tan Leather, Pony Skin and laminated leather the outer of the collection pieces will not only be beautiful but hard wearing too.

INTERIOR

The interior of the range is a cotton 2D print of attractive palm trees. A secret heaven meant to inspire the owner every time they delve inside.

HARDWARE

The hardware of the accessories is mostly, where possible, hidden from view between pleats and folds. Where the pieces are detacha-ble and the fixings are shown the hardware will be simple and un-derstated. Obviously due to the high usage the range needs to have hardware that is of a high standard and quality otherwise its most important feature; it is durability and functionality becomes obsole-te.

COLOURS

Only natural and organic tones will be used throughout the collec-tion. Keeping the core values of the range clear and simple.

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CONSUMER AShe is aged between 30 and 45 years of age. She lives with her 5yr old daughter near to London Fields, Broadway Market in East London in a two bedroom Victorian house. She has recently got divorced and so has adapted her life as a freelance architect and interior designer to her daughters time-table ensuring her daughter receives as much time and gains as many experiences as possible with her. Every fortnight her ex-husband takes care of her daughter giving her time to travel in Europe. She loves to go to the South of Italy and the Balearic Island where she has her second home. She is a lover of fashion and over the years has collected several sig-nature pieces. With her fashion collection built she now invests her time in purchasing quality, timeless accessories with which to style her fashion collection. She mixes high street basics with boutique. Occasionally some designer labels. Her much loved boutiques are LN-CC, ACNE Studio and Liberty’s. She is considered a ‘style cham-pion’. She loves her unique perfumes such as Nasomatoo, Lelabo or Serge Lutens. She gets pleasure from good simple food and pre-fers to buy her food at food markets such as Broadway Market, La Bouche and Fin and Flounder. She loves to walk around Regents Canal and rides her bike as much as she can. In her other free time she enjoys seeing her friends, going to exhibitions and gardening.

PRODUCT PRICE MATERIALS DESCRIPTION

Large Bag £480

Veg tan leather, laminated wood, pony skin and cotton lining.

Large bag with do-uble departments and detachable

pockets.

Medium Bag £390

Veg tan leather, laminated wood, pony skin and cotton lining.

Medium bag with double de-

partments and de-tachable pockets.

Small bag £290

Veg tan leather, laminated wood, pony skin and cotton lining.

Small bag with do-uble departments and detachable

pockets.

Necklace £210Veg tan leather, laminated wood,

pony skin.

Necklace, body piece with funtio-

nal pockets.

Belt £140

Veg tan leather, laminated wood, pony skin and cotton lining.

Belt reversible with detachable funtio-

nal pockets.w

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B

She is between 25 and 30 years of age. She works shifts as a waitress at a trendy restaurant in the heart of Shoreditch. Her other job is as a freelance Fashion Photographer for glossy edito-rials such as ID and Another Magazine. She is working her way up the ladder hoping to one day be able to quit the restaurant work and concentrate solely on her Fashion career. She lives in Clapton with her boyfriend who works as a freelance designer as well as doing shifts in a bar. Every month or so they receive some extra work or have a huge increase in tips meaning they are able to treat themselves. She collects vintage items and loves going to markets and car boot sales desperately searching for that unique garment, accessory or piece. Her style is quite thrown together. She mixes up the odd unique designer piece such as a belt or bag with the unique and quirky things she has found from her rummages. She loves nosing through the things for sale in the various boutiques throughout London and makes a list of the pieces she will invest in when she has the money. She does not mind shopping at Tesco’s or Sainsbury’s for her food on the run…she rarely has the time to sit and cook a proper meal. She and her boyfriend are both very social animals and enjoy spending time with their contemporaries socialising in bars or coffee shops and visiting small independent art galleries. Her and her boyfriend have a campervan and spend most of their holidays travelling in it around England and France.

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RETAIL POSITION

SANTAL 36’s capsule collection will be a strong part of the London Boutique Market. London is renowned for being a leading force in fresh new design and talent and so is the perfect place to launch a new brand. Also according to WGSN people living in European Capitol cities earn a far higher salary to spend on fashion goods in compari-son to others. London boutiques are great at offering timeless, quali-ty products at prices half that of the more established luxury brands. London boutiques such as LN-CC, Dover Street Market and Libertys are the preferred choice of retail position as they offer an artistic and contemporary atmosphere that fits with the brands intended con-sumer. Limiting the number of boutiques to three is of benefit as it adds to the exclusivity of the brand. SANTAL 36 will stand apart from the other products on offer within the boutiques whilst also bene-fiting from the exposure the boutique market will surely bring. My consumers thrive on being the first to discover the ‘next big thing’ in design; Boutiques are a great place to find a completely new brand with great core values such as SANTAL 36.

As well as offering the collection within the boutique market I also intend on selling the collection online via Net-a-Porter. Net-a-Porter offers an e-commerce experience, allowing consumers to buy lots of products with the ease of not leaving their office or home. It also goes along with my previous statement that people nowadays like to think and consider rather than impulse buy. An online presence allows a consumer to enjoy the boutique experience and to look and examine the products on sale and then go away and think about it before later making the decision. It is also of course available 24hrs a day and with my ideal consumers being very busy people the idea of being able to buy that perfect piece outside of normal working hours is essential to driving sales and availability.

Net-a-Porter also offers a strong social media presence with an onli-ne magazine, face book page, blogs, newsletter and endlessly upda-ted twitter account, which is essential in today’s retail market. (Min-tel 2012)

See some imges next page.

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STRENGTHS

- A capsule collection helps to make the products more desirable and niche.- A functional product which is not just beautiful. Adds to the usabi-lity of the product.- A handmade collection delivers the true values of craftsmanship, quality, exclusivity and uniqueness.- New brands are often bought by the new type of considerate, thoughtful consumer; looking to make a difference.- Achievable pricing.- Using sustainable, eco mate-rials fits in with the current environ-mentally aware consumer.- The capsule collection is a more permanent collection that ne-ver goes out of fashion.

WEAKNESSES

- The initial cost of the first co-llection will be high.- SANTAL 36 is a new brand which needs to be established.- Sourcing and maintaining rela-tionships with reliable suppliers may be an issue in the beginning.- Making sure the materials are produced sustain ably when su-ppliers are in another country may be hard.- High quality products in small quantities have a high cost to the individual manufacturer.- The workload for one indivi-dual in the initial stages of produc-tion will be intense.

OPPORTUNITIES

- The emergence of a more eco-aware and thoughtful consumer (Mintel 2011)- A new kind of consumer that wants to strip things back and have one product that can function as se-veral different.- Consumers are more willing due to the recession to pay a pre-mium price for an investment piece.- Forecasts of new consumer markets opening up in the wealthy Far East.

THREATS

- Materials used are not within the UK so there may be problems with delivery and maintaining rela-tions.- Growing competition in the sustainable market.- Competition within the ‘one off’ Boutique market.- Possible increases in material costs once the collection is launched and proves successful.- Unstable global economicfactors, which may be a problem for importing materials and exporting products.

The SWOT Analysis, categorize positive and negatives, Internal and exter-nal factors to accomplish a profitable collection.

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MARKET POSITION

Research has show that in the 5yr period between 2006 and 2011 sales of ac-cessories (mostly handbags) have increased by 50%. (Mintel). Angela Rumsey from WGSN suggests this may be due to consumers having less disposable inco-me (due to the recession) to spend on a luxury fashion garment yet still wanting to buy their piece of luxury. When this occurs the consumer is more likely to buy a cheaper luxury accessory from a unique brand or to purchase a handbag which although has a higher price tag offers the consumer a larger investment.The price of the capsule collection is slightly lower than that of many luxury pro-ducts, which means that in a recession people may choose a SANTAL 36 product that still offers quality over the far higher priced alternative. Also the market has become saturated with mass produced cheap products, which has made the fashion markets appear less desirable than before. Angela Rumsey states that the “Young British female consumer is now more thoughtful when making fashion purchases” and also calls them a “generation transfor-med”. This could mean that my ideal consumers are more likely to invest in a few pieces at a higher price with a higher quality and a more personal handcraf-ted approach.

“Who the hell wants anything if everyone can have it” (Floratv, 2009)

In the future we can forecast that people will be increasing influenced to find more sustainable solutions to consuming whilst still keeping the economy afloat. Although this will be a tough task I believe it will be an advantage to new emer-ging designers who are consistently turning their attentions to making new pro-ducts sustainable and through this it may be set to become a more mainstream ideal.

We mustn’t forget the huge emerging economy in the Far East. The growing market in China has a far younger consumer (30yrs). Who according to WGSN are more likely to make a purchase from a brand new emerging designer or re-tailer rather than the older UK consumer, which averages out at around 50 years old.

Also in the West the ever-growing gap between the rich and the poor is only set to increase in the next ten years. With the rich getting richer there is more of an opportunity for them to want to start investing in unique, niche products and markets.

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FunctionalityTrendy

MARKET POSITION

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COMPETITORS

In-order to ascertain the competitors of SANTAL 36’s capsule collec-tion one must first take into account the information learned within the Concept Development Process so far. That way one is able to view the brands position in comparison with those around it. SAN-TAL 36’s competitors all offer simple design and quality craftsman-ship with a clear focus and awareness on future fashion. I consider the follow brands my major competitors:

Isaac ReinaBrand Philosophy: His philosophy is simple as his designs are, creating minimal but modern accessories with the focus on quality. Isaac Reina bags, wallets, folders and cases are all made of finest leather, handcrafted in Paris. Inspired by industrial aesthetics, ba-sic packaging and paperboard folding, Reina removed any unnecessary details and designed beautiful and very light-weight goods of buttery calfskinPrice: core £59 to £709Location: Is sold in Darkroom and LN-CC Materials: Use calf skin and lamb skin

Want Les Essentiels de la vie Brand PhilosophyTravel accessories are essential to everyday life - be it for the daily commute, a special occasion, business, leisure, or an international journey. With the ever developing tech-nological lifestyle and the ability to work from anywhere, these necessary com-panions inherently require multiplicity - function, utility, organization, durability and the ability to define a look. Influen-ced by mid-century design and architec-ture, the collection is simple yet functio-nal, modern yet timeless, long-lasting and sustainable.

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ACNE Brand Philosophy: The tone of the brand is a subtle luxury that is understated, which originates from the idea that clothes should feel like an individuals wardrobe. Sharp, easy, familiar, and personal. The result is that nothing overwhelms or dominates anything else, yet every piece is extremely stylish.

Price: Core Price £60 to £685Location: Dover Street

Materials: Calf leather andTextured Leather.

Ally CapellinoBrand Philosophy: Bags constructed by skilled crafsmen from dura-ble waxed cottons and the finnest leather. Elegant and understated inevery way. Pieces to last a lifetime, quality constraction and timeless. Price: Core Price £77 to £487

Location: Own shops in Eastand in Portobello. Also sellingat Liberty, Selfridges, Hub, The conrad shop,Family tree,Couverture,and more, as wellonline

Materials: Finnest leatherand resistent cotton canvas.

Price: Core price £85 to £1225.Location: Is sold in Present shop in Shoreditch and in Star shop Shoreditch.Materials: Leather, Cotton Canvas, Suede.

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SUPPLY CHAIN

As a London based brand SANTAL 36 will wherever possible attempt to source its supplies from within the UK. However in the interest of quali-ty and originality some of the materials will always need to be sourced from outside. The unique laminate leather is only made with one su-pplier in Italy and so that will be sourced from there. As we know it may be a drawback sourcing materials from outside the UK due to relations-hip breakdowns with suppliers or problems with delivery. So far however this company has been incredibly helpful and speedy when dealing with me. Again some of the leather will be sourced from Spain, as this is the only place I can get the quality I require at a reasonable price.

The products in the capsule collection will all be handcrafted in the UK and will be distributed from the UK to both stockists and straight to the consumer via Internet e-commerce purchases.

Material Supplier Location Contact InfoLeather Sanchez Agullo Elche-Alicante,

Spainwww.pielesycur-

tidos.comLeather Walter Reginald

GroupLondon, UK www.walterregi-

nald.com‘Wood Look’ La-minate Leather

Albeflex S.R.L. Gaiarine (TV) Italia

www.albeflex.it

Cotton Lining Fashin Digital Studio

London, UK www.fashiondigi-talstudio.com

Zips Riri Group Menrisio, Switze-rand

www.riri.com

Metal Stamp J.T. Batchelor London, UK www.jtbatchelor.co.uk

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INITIAL DESIGN DEVELOPMENT AND EXPEIMENTATION

The development of the capsule collection began with the inspira-tional research: mood boards and examining my initial inspiration. Firstly I began by looking at Jean Prouve’s chair to get the simple shapes from them and then began putting these back together to form a new unique design for a handbag. I then further experimented with other selected shapes sourced from reducing down essential pieces to their simplest and functional forms. As stated within the introduction and design inspiration of this paper the collection is based upon quality and craft and so the ‘no frills’ process had to be done whilst ensuring no beauty of the piece was lost.

Paper ‘mock up’ 3D versions were made where possible to further examine shape and form.

Material tests have also been carried out to ensure the longevity of the product. The wood laminate leather samples have been tested to ensure its ability to be sewn and also its flexibility. Possible pitfalls in design, which need to be taken into considera-tion, include the differences in the colouration of the natural vege-table tan leather. Due to the process in which it is made there are several factors, which can alter the overall appearance of the hide.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

Images:

http://www.letemps.ch/Page/Uuid/9095359c-d815-11e1-b6c7-87316167502b/Jean_Prouvé_inventait_lavenir_sans_discours_ni_grandiloquence#.ULzKW45peK0

http://soodiebeasley.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/charlotte-perriand-wins.html

http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1987.461.2ab

http://www.urv.cat/any_dones_ciencies/dones_i_ciencies/dones_arquitectes/es_charlotteperriand.html

http://www.kissthedesign.ch/website_english/Charlotte_Perriand_les_Arcs_chairs.html

http://doknot.com/journal/?p=1299

http://www.archiexpo.es/prod/cassina/chaises-longues-de-diseno-de-charlotte-perriand-9515-647504.html

http://www.bukowskis.com/auctions/570/516-le-corbusier-pierre-jeanneret-charlotte-perriand-fatolj-lc-2-cassina-italien

http://www.masterart.com/Charlotte-Perriand-Paris-1903-Paris-1999-cupboard-1958-PortalDefault.aspx?tabid=53&dealerID=1903&objectID=452924

http://emilyforgot.blogspot.co.uk/2010/11/jean-prouve.html

http://www.anothersomething.org/2012/05/manufacture-industry/

http://ffffound.com/image/63a1ac49cdbf30b4df13b31f440c498097b19e8f

http://designspiration.net/image/295799046416/

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Online:

Bain & Company, (2011) ‘Worldwide luxury goods market poised to surge10 percent in 2011’ [Online] Available from: http://www.bain.com/about/press/ press-releases/worldwide-luxury-goods-market- poised-to-surge-ten-percent-in-2011.aspx (Accessed on 1 November 2011)

WGSN: Transformed Consumers: UK women (2012) Angela Runsey.

WGSN: Purchasing Power: Wealthy Europeans (2012) Leona Melius.

Mintel Reports:

Mintel reports:Fashion Accessories: Executive Summary – UK - (June 2011) MichelleStrutton.

Books:

Volker Fischer (1997) The LC4 Chaise Longue by Le Corbusier, Pierre Jeanneret and Charlotte Perriand. Frankfurt: Verlag Form

Mary Mcleod (2003) Charlotte Perriand and art of Living. New York:Harry N. Abrams.

Elisabeth Vedrenne (2005) Charlotte Perriand. New York: Assouline

Centro Pompidou (2005) Charlotte Perriand. Paris: Centro Pompidou.

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Oct.Week 1

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Design Inspiration Research MarketResearchConsumer ResearchSurveyCompeti-torsResearchCompeti-torsShopMarket PositioningMaterialsResearchTrendResearchInitial Material SelectionProductValuesConcept Develop-mentMaterial Experi-mentationBag Cons-truction ResearchInitial Range Plan Hand inConceptDevelop-ment

7 Dec-em-ber

Critical Path

SANTAL 36

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Dec.Week 2

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Orde-ringLeatherOrde-ring WoodFurther Initial Design DevShape and Size DevMaterialExperi-ment.Mock upSam-plingFitting Sour-cingPatternCuttingDesign DevInteriorRe-search1st Mock upSam-plingPortfolioDesignDesign Dev IluSpecSheetsSpecSheets

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OrderingleatherFurther Ini-tial DesignShape Size DevelMaterial Experim.Mock upFitting testPattern CuttingDesing DevelopDetail DevelopInterior decision!st Mock up sam-plingPortfolioDesignDesign Dev. IllustrAdjust boardsSpec SheetsMaking Bag 1Making Bag 2Making Bag 3Making-NecklaceMaking-BeltPackagingDesign

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Shape andSize develMaterial ExpSamplingFittingPattern CuttingDesign devInterior items1st Mock upPortfolio DesignDesign DevIllustratorAdd boardsSpec SheetsMaking bag 1Making bag 2Making Bag 3Making NecklaceMaking BeltPackagingDesignPhoto ShootBinding concept de-velopmentFinalisisng Portfolio and PrintReflective DiscourseHand in collection 20 May

Hand in ReflectiveDiscourse Portfolio

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