The Only Recognized Trademarks for Textile Shrinkage Control

WHAT IS "SANFORIZED"?The Sanforized trademark was first registered in theUnited States of America in 1930. Today the trademark isregistered in over 100 countries worldwide. Our extensivenetwork of global licensees uses the trademark on both100% cotton and cotton-blend fabrics which meetspecial test requirements and conform to a precisestandard of shrinkage established by The SanforizedCompany.

Manufacturers of garments made of these fabrics maylabel their merchandise Sanforized. Thus the retailer andthe ultimate consumer can tell at a glance that the fabricin a garment so labeled will not shrink out of fit.

This is uniformly true everywhere in the world, wherevercotton and cotton-blend merchandise is produced andsold, because the same processing, testing and inspectionprocedures are carried out with each and every licensee.

Sanforized technical service representatives performconstant inspection and check-testing at the plants oftextile mills licensed to produce "Sanforized" fabrics. Thisinsures that a uniform standard is maintained.

The Sanforized trademarks are known at both trade andconsumer levels worldwide because of their universalassurance of quality. Textile users — manufacturers,retailers, and consumers — have confidence inSanforized. They ask for it. They have been asking for itfor more than 70 years.

The Sanforized license program is unique and withoutparallel in the textile and apparel industries. Our leader-ship and expertise in quality shrinkage control are well-known in every major textile market of the world.

WHAT CAUSES SHRINKAGE?During spinning, weaving, bleaching, dyeing and thevarious finishing processes, yarns and cloth are under acontinuous tension.

Yarns and/or fabrics are not fixed materials. They consistof separate, stretchable fibers which submit to thetension. In other words, fabrics do stretch in length andwidth. The tension within the yarns, which is caused bythis stretching, can be eliminated when the frictionwithin the fabric is reduced. This reduction in friction

THE SANFORIZED TRADEMARK IS REGISTERED IN OVER 100 COUNTRIES ANDKNOWN AT BOTH TRADE AND CONSUMER LEVELS GLOBALLY.

• Quality assurance for manufacturers,consumers and buyers

• A dedicated team of technical specialists• Established global shrinkage standards

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occurs during launderingwhere both water andsoap act as a lubricant. Thelubricant, along with themechanical action of thewasher, helps the fibersrelax and contract to theiroriginal length before theelongation takes place.This means that the fabricshrinks and recaptures itsoriginal equilibrium.

CONTROLLED COMPRESSIVESHRINKAGE PROCESSThe internationally well-known and most importantshrinking process today dates back more than 70 years.Though the correct expression for this process is Con-trolled Compressive Shrinkage, the average personknows it as SANFORIZED. The process is a purely me-chanical treatment without any addition of chemicals.

The word SANFORIZED is derived from the first name ofthe inventor of the compressive shrinkage process, Mr.Sanford L. Cluett.

The Sanforized Company, a division of Cluett Peabody &Co., Inc., New York, USA, is sole owner of the registeredtrademarks Sanforized, Sanfor and Sanforizado.

The Sanforized label means dimensional stability forgarments made up of Sanforized labeled fabrics.

The purpose of the process is to shrink fabrics in such away that textiles made up of these fabrics do not shrinkduring washing.

The amount of potential wash shrinkage must bedetermined prior to shrinking. A full width sample iswash-tested according to the test method. After thelengthwise and widthwise shrinkage has been deter-mined, the compressive shrinkage machine can beadjusted accordingly.

The process can be described by the schematic below.

Fabric (F) passes through the skyer (S) or other moisten-ing device and is moistened by water and/or steam. Thiswill lubricate the fibers and promote shrinkability withinthe fabric. Normally, a fabric must be moistened in such away that every single thread achieves a moisture contentof approximately 15%. This allows compression of thefabric with very little resistance.

When the fabric passes through the clip expander (C), weobtain the required width. The clip expander also trans-ports the fabric to the most important part of themachine: the rubber belt unit (indicated by arrows inabove figure). In the close-up of fig. 1, we see theendless rubber belt (R). By squeezing rubber belt (R)between pressure roll (P) and rubber belt cylinder (RB),we obtain an elastical stretching of the rubber beltsurface. The more we squeeze the rubber belt, the morethe surface is stretched. This point of squeezing is knownas the pressure zone, or the nip point.

Fabric (F) is now fed into the pressure zone. Whenleaving the pressure zone, the rubber belt recovers itselfand the surface returns to its original length carrying thefabric with it. The effect of this action is a shorting of thewarp yarn which packs the filling yarns closer together.At this actual moment, shrinkage occurs.

After compaction within the rubber belt unit, the fabricenters the dryer (D). Here the fibers are locked in theirshrunken state by removing the moisture from the fabric.

After the compressive shrinkage process is completed,another sample of the fabric is taken. This sample is alsowash-tested. The final result of this test must meet theSanforized Standard in length and width before it maycarry the Sanforized label.

All Sanforized Licensees are contractually obligated tofollow the required test method and meet the standardsset forth by The Sanforized Company.

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© Bierbaum Wohnen

A GUIDE TO SANFORIZED LABELINGWho May Use the Sanforized Trademark?Textile mills are licensed to apply the Sanforized trade-mark to those fabrics which conform to specified testrequirements. In addition, the Sanforized trademark maybe used by manufacturers to identify garments cut fromSanforized-labeled fabrics, and retailers in their sellingand advertising.

Use of Sanforizedby Textile MillsTextile Mills licensed to usethe trademark can identifytheir Sanforized fabricswith the label Sanforized.The label, which must beapplied to the end of eachpiece of fabric, states thatSanforized is a checkedstandard of shrinkage.Many mills also stampSanforized at intervals onthe selvage of the cloth.

Use of Sanforized by ManufacturersManufacturers who make up garments wholly ofSanforized fabric may identify the garments asSanforized. The right to such identification is conferredby the appearance of the standard label on each roll offabric the garment is made from. In addition, the invoicefor the fabric must clearly say "Sanforized."

Use of Sanforizedby RetailersRetailers purchasinggarments identified asSanforized may use thetrademark in advertise-ments, on counter cards,

in bill-stuffers and all othermaterial employed topromote the sale of thegarment. For the retailer'sprotection, and to avoidillegal use of the mark, theretailer should make surethat each individualgarment carries Sanforized identification. It isrecommended to specify such identification on thepurchase order.

The Importance of Sanforized LabelingTo consumers all over the world, the word Sanforized, orSanfor, on a fabric or a garment has strong sales appeal.

Experience has taught them that the trademark promisesgood performance from a shrinkage standpoint. ASanforized garment can be washed repeatedly withoutloss of original style or fit. This means longer garmentlife, greater economy, and more value for the moneyspent.

In view of this, the manufacturer who makes a line ofSanforized garments, but does not identify them as such,is depriving both himself and the retail customer of anextremely powerful visual sales tool — one that hasbecome more and more important in this day of lesspersonal selling.

There are many different ways in which manufacturerslabel their garments as Sanforized. Among them are:inclusion of the trademark on the manufacturer's ownsew-in neck label or hang-tag; separate hang-tags;gummed tickets; gummed labels, etc. The exact methodusually depends on the type of merchandise.

SHRINKAGE STANDARDS FOR WOVENAND KNIT FABRICSStandards for Shrinkage of SanforizedLabeled Woven FabricsWoven fabrics shall not either shrink or gain in excess of1% in either the warpwise or the weftwise direction whensubjected to the wash-test method of the United StatesFederal specification number CCC-T-191A or ISO 675.

Standards for Shrinkage of Sanfor-KnitLabeled Knit FabricsKnit fabrics shall not either shrink or gain in excess of 5%in either the longitudinal or the cross direction whensubjected to the wash-test AATCC 135-1987 or ISO 6330(60 degree, tumble dry).

Printed ISO test methodsare under copyright! Pleasecontact your nearest ISOoffice or contact us andwe’ll be glad to give youan address where you canobtain a copy.(For Germany: Beuth-Verlag, Berlin Tel: 030/260101)

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SANFORIZED TECHNICAL SERVICESOne key element of our system is the continuous in-planttechnical services provided each Sanforized licensee. Thisservice is important, in part, because of constant changeand improvements in finishing of all types of cottonfabrics and blends. Our worldwide staff of technicalrepresentatives is, of necessity, specializing in keepingabreast of these changing conditions. This enables themto adapt new finishing formulas, processing techniques,and other means necessary to achieve proper shrinkagecontrol.

These technical representatives make regularly scheduledservice visits to licensees. Also, they are frequently askedto resolve problems which can and do arise betweentheir regular visits. It’s important to note that because ofthe varying technical nature of shrinkage control, theserequests come from licensees of many years’ experienceas well as from new licensees.

In addition to the technical services provided eachlicensee, our technical representatives are frequentlycalled upon to help improve garment manufacturing,fabric handling, and laundering techniques – all of whichseriously affect shrinkage.

The importance and the difficulties of quality shrinkagecontrol must not be underestimated. It cannot be claimedthat the Sanforized system is perfect. It can be emphati-cally stated, however, that the Sanforized programrepresents by far the best and most consistent shrinkagecontrol available. Thus, it is the best protection againstcostly shrinkage complaints, resulting in loss of good willand customers.

TECHNICAL SERVICE HIGHLIGHTSRoutine VisitsA Sanforized representative will make routine visits toeach licensee at no additional cost to the licensee. Thesevisits may include fabric testing,training of personnel,fabric finishing trials, and technical advice on a widevariety of subjects related to shrinkage control.

Special VisitsOur technical service personnel are available to thelicensee for a special visit at the request of the licensee.Special visits on short notice or for an extended period oftime may result in nominal charges to cover travelexpenses.

Machine AuditsMachine audits are an in-depth examination of themechanical condition of a machine, the operatingprocedures of the machine, record keeping for themachine, fabric preparation, fabric testing, spare parts,etc. The highlights of the audit specifically addressproblems in the following areas:

• Safety• Machine defects which may affect fabric quality• Machine defects which may result in down time

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POTENTIAL COST SAVINGSFOR LICENSEESReduced SecondsImproper maintenance or operation of CSRs (Compres-sive Shrinkage Range machines) can result in secondquality fabric due to improper shrinkage (too high or toolow), compaction marks, water spots, yellowing, im-proper skewing, inadequate width control, etc. TheSanforized Company representatives work with thelicensees to solve these problems.

Less RerunsA rerun is usually a batchof fabric which is firstquality, except for theshrinkage. Getting theshrinkage right the firsttime prevents reruns. Forsome fabrics, reshrinkingthe fabric can produce asecond, or off-quality,fabric. Common problemsdue to reprocessing fabric

are alteration of the hand, alteration of the appearance,and loss of finished width (too narrow according to thespecification).

Less Unscheduled DowntimeThe CSR audit is a very effective means by which a millcan pinpoint mechanical problems and repair thembefore they result in unscheduled downtime. Areas ofhigh wear and/or failure rates can be devised.

High SpeedBy optimizing the machine parameters under which aparticular fabric is processed, the mill can sometimesrealize an improvement in the operating speed of themachine.

SANFORIZED LICENSEEAGREEMENT SUMMARYFieldNon-exclusive use of the Sanfor, Sanforized and Sanfor-Knit trademarks. Non-exclusive use of Licensor’s knowl-edge, information, experience, techniques and advice onthe compressive shrinkage process together with theequipment, for use in finishing and shrinking of textilefabrics.

LicenseeSanforized Company grants a non-exclusive license to usethe techniques for treating textile fabrics under thetrademark and to sell such labeled fabrics worldwide.

EquipmentSanforized Company personnel inspect licensees’ machin-ery and recommend modifications, if required, to qualifyequipment to treat fabric in accordance with the estab-lished standards of The Sanforized Company.

Technical ServicesSanforized Company personnel instruct licensee in properpractices of the shrinkage process, operation of equip-ment, and testing procedures for maintaining theestablished standard.

ReportsLicensee will submit royalty reports on a quarterly basis.

CompensationA minimum annual fee will be established. For moreinformation please contact the Sanforized representativein your area.

TermThe initial term of the agreement shall be negotiatedwith an option for automatic renewal six months prior toexpiration.

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SANFORD L. CLUETT, 1874-1968Sanford L. Cluett changedthe way America looked.He helped put an end toexposed wrists and ankles,constricted waistlines andbusting buttons. Theinvention that bears hisname, "Sanforized" fabric,made it possible to washclothes over and overagain without shrinkage.

Born in 1874 in Troy, NY, Cluett was a nephew of thethree Cluetts who started the detachable collar and shirtmaking giant in the city. He did not join in the familybusiness until he was 45 years old.

His background was as varied and intriguing as theindefatigable curiosity that led him to become an inven-tor with 200 patents in his name.

"If more people would get curious and open their eyesand ears and minds, they would be much happier andincidentally, more successful," he once said.

When he was 10, he surveyed and mapped RaquetteLake in the Adirondack Mountains using a carpenter'slevel, some metal screw eyes and a music stand. As ateenager, he lived in Florida for a number of yearsbecause of ill health. While there, he hunted the swampsfor alligators, befriended the Seminoles and learned theirlanguage, and became an expert marksman.

After dropping aspirations of a career in medicine, helater attended Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute where hepioneered investigations into ballistics. After graduation,he entered the Spanish-American War to work in theengineering corps. He went on to do much of the keyengineering design work for the Big Sandy River Damproject in Kentucky, where he reportedly was almost shotby suspicious mountain folk who thought he was arevenuer. At the age of 27, he became chief engineer ofan upstate New York harvesting machine company,inventing new and improved designs.

Cluett was famous as a meticulous man who madewritten records of his every thought. According to onestory, after a lunch meeting with businessmen talkingabout one of his inventions, he returned to retrieve thetablecloth on which he had sketched some ideas. He hadthe tablecloth notarized and kept it. It was later used asevidence in a patent suit.

Cluett joined his uncles' business in 1919. Troy factorieswere cranking out 3 million detachable collars a weekthen, shipping them all over the world. But in the 1920’s,people were getting used to wearing soft collars attachedto shirts. Collar sales were plummeting. The companytried to get into collar-attached shirts but had to dealwith the defect of shrinkage when they were washed. Noone would buy pre-washed shirts. Cluett needed to finda way to shrink the shirts before they were washed.

Cluett concluded the cause of shrinkage was the stretch-ing of fabric in the manufacturing process. When thefabric was washed, it returned to its normal state. Hedeveloped a "compressive shrinkage process" that sooncarried the trademark "Sanforized," named for itsinventor. Cluett Peabody & Co., Inc. licensed the processand made it available to everybody in the textile industry.

Suddenly, people could be sure when they bought agarment that it would fit them for as long as they ownedit. Previously, fitting new clothes was mostly guesswork.The only certainty was the garment was going to shrink.The innovation launched “Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc.”into its second generation as Arrow collars were replacedby Arrow shirts.

Sanford Cluett died in 1968 in Florida.

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SANFORIZED WORLDWIDE LOCATIONS AND SUPPLIERS

North America Ms. Maureen Scanlon GTB Holding Corp. 48 West 38th Street New York, NY 10018 U.S.A. Tel: 646-735-2242 Fax: 212-984-8940 E-mail: mscanlon@goldtoe.com

Latin America Mr. Gabriel Siedemburg The Sanforized Company Casilla de Correo No. 10943, Suc 2 Montevideo, Uruguay Tel & Fax: 598-2-4878-496 E-mail: gsiedemburg@hotmail.com

Europe, Asia, and Africa Mr. Alwin Schmidt Sanfor Service Mittelgasse 3 91239 Henfenfeld Germany Tel: 49-9151-6215 Fax: 49-9151-6229 E-mail: sanfor@lau-net.de

Supplier of Shrinkage Markers Benchmark Devices Inc. 3305 Equestrian Trail Marietta, Ga. 30064 Tel: 770-795-0042 Fax: 770-421-8401 E-mail: bmarkers@bellsouth.net