RIGHTWOOD — The hustle andbustle of skiers and boarders hang-ing out at Mountain High Ski Re-sort’s Bullwheel Saloon are longgone, now that summer temps havemelted winter snows.

But even with thesnow gone, visitors are still flock-ing to the resort for summer-time dining in the pines. Thesaloon has been trans-formed into a mining-themed restaurant dubbedthe San Andreas Grill, lo-cated just a few stepsfrom the highest pointalong the entire fault.

Menu items range fromGold Rush Chicken andMiner Vincent’s Flat IronSteak to Chardonnay ShrimpPasta, Grilled Pacific Ahi withSun-dried Tomato Cream Sauce or aGentleman Jack Sirloin with Whiskey CreamSauce.

Following are several recipes from the restau-rant, courtesy of food and beverage manager/ex-ecutive chef Jason Hill.

SAN ANDREAS GRILL’SSERRANO CHICKEN SANDWICH

4 chicken breasts8 slices pepper jack cheese

4 onion-cheese Kaiser rolls, toasted4 slices fresh tomato

8 slices avocado

Marinade (you can use a Mexican-style bottled marinade)1 cup olive oil

1⁄4 cup lime juice1 garlic clove, minced

1⁄4 cup chopped fresh cilantro1⁄2 tablespoon cumin powder

1⁄2 tablespoon chili powder1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Southwest Sauce:1⁄2 cup mayonnaise1⁄2 cup sour cream

3 teaspoons chopped onions2 tablespoons chopped tomato

3 teaspoons cilantro1 teaspoon peeled fresh garlic

1⁄4 teaspoon cayenne pepper11⁄2 dashes Lawry’s seasoned salt

11⁄2 dashes cumin powder2 Serrano peppers, or fewer for less heat

In a shallow pan, marinate chicken for 1 hour inmarinade mixture (or use your favorite mari-nade). Make up Southwest Sauce in food proces-sor. Remove chicken, sprinkle with salt and pep-

FOODDAILY PRESS

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 20, 2001 SECTION D

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How to reach us: Features Editor Veronica Hill welcomesyour comments and story ideas.Write: P.O. Box 1389, Victorville, CA 92392Phone: 241-7744 Fax: 241-1860E-mail: veronica@link.freedom.com

Oasis

Recipes inspired by the

San Gabriel mountain

wilderness are shared by the

San Andreas Grill in Wrightwood

W

REALRUSTIC

&

THE VINTAGE COOK

This column is one in a series taking alook at vintage cookbooks owned by HighDesert residents.

By VERONICA HILLStaff Writer

Today’s cookbook, “The White HouseCook Book,” was first published in1887, followed by 1900 with the Saal-

field Publishing Company (New York,

Akron, Ohio and Chicago).Written by White House steward Hugo

Ziemann and by F. L. Gillette, separatecopies of the book are owned by HighDesert residents Allison Stockdale, JoanHeckethorn, Shawn Rickles, Shirley Cam-bridge and Yvonne Meserve.

The publishers preface reads that “Zie-mann was at one time a caterer for PrinceNapoleon, who was killed while fightingthe Zulus in Africa. He was afterwards

steward of the famous Hotel Splendide inParis. Later, he conducted the celebratedBrunswick Café in New York, and still lat-er he gave to the Hotel Richelieu, inChicago, a cuisine which won the applauseof even the gourmets of foreign lands. Itwas here that he laid the famous ‘spread’to which the chiefs of warring factions ofthe Republican Convention sat down inJune 1888, and from which they arose

STORY BYSUSAN D. LAWSON

STAFF WRITER

PHOTOS BYRUSSELL

GEARHARTSTAFF

PHOTOGRAPHER

Please see GRILL, D2

‘White House Cook Book’ offers a glimpse at early America

Please see VINTAGE, D2

Rosenblum a Zin-lover’s

paradiseThere are

somewineries

here in Califor-nia and else-where that de-vote virtuallyall of their timeand attention toa single kind ofwine.

Kistler Vine-yards, for in-stance, is aChardonnayspecialist. Sil-ver Oak focuseson CabernetSauvignon. Ore-gon’s Panther Creek shines thespotlight on Pinot Noir.

These estates may dabble in oth-er bottlings, but they’ve built theirreputations on doing one thing anddoing it exceedingly well.

At the other end of the spectrumare wineries like Rosenblum Cel-lars. By making a large assortmentof wine types, Rosenblum givesvisitors a lot to experience and alot to like.

Even the winery itself exhibitsthe individuality of owner KentRosenblum.

The facility is not situatedamidst the rolling vineyards of arecognized “wine region” like Na-pa Valley or Sonoma County . . . oreven the Cucamonga Valley.

To get to Rosenblum, you firstmust traverse the post-earthquake,rebuilt concrete thoroughfaresaround Oakland, and then cross abridge that connects the mainlandwith the island of Alameda.

As if the geographic locationweren’t unusual enough, theRosenblum physical plant ishoused in an old shipyard buildingthat was constructed around 1910.

Nothing about the location or thewinery proclaims “wine.” Exceptfor the wonderful elixirs inside thewide array of Rosenblum-labeledbottles.

And when we say “wide array,”we’re not kidding. The last time weperused the Rosenblum list, thewinery was offering 24 differentbottlings.

And among those, 10 were Zin-fandels, distinctive by their geo-graphic or specific vineyard ori-gin. One could call Rosenblum Cel-lars a Zin-lover’s paradise.

For its Zins and other wines,Rosenblum sources grapes frommore than 30 vineyards in Napa,Sonoma, Paso Robles and ContraCosta County.

Several of the vineyards aremore than 75 years old, with vinesthat are head-pruned (the old-fash-ioned, low-tech way) and dry-farmed. Not only is the fruit fromthese vineyards distinctive, but thefinished wines possess their owncharacteristics from the variousaging regimens that Rosenblumemploys.

On July 1, Kent Rosenblum willhost a winemaker dinner atChateau Chang in Victorville. $65per person. Call 843-0500.

Spare sipsLooking for the perfect picnic or

poolside wine? The annual “Sum-mer Sippers” tasting of the HighDesert Wine Explorers is sched-uled for this Saturday at Vic-torville’s Cask ‘N’ Cleaver restau-rant. Cost is $10 (HDWE members)or $20 (non-members, which in-cludes membership). Call the Caskat 241-7318.

Wines of the week■ White: Handley Cellars 1999

Chardonnay, Dry Creek Valley.Handley makes one of Wine Lines’favorite California Gewurztramin-ers year in and year out. It alsodoes a great job with Chardonnay,as this release clearly illustrates. Awine you’ll want to pair with creamsauces or mild cheeses, it’s bright,fruity and nutty. $19. Rating: 90.(707) 895-3876.

■ Red: Foxen 1999 Pinot Noir, Ju-lia’s Vineyard. Hugely extractedand deeply colored, showing lots ofconcentrated black cherry fruitand orange peel in the nose, alongwith smoky oak. Very broad andmouthfilling, and should improveover the next decade as the oakcharacter melds with the fruit. Ababy now, but with great potential.$29.99. Rating: 93. 843-0500.

Wines are rated by Bob Johnson andGlen Frederiksen on a 100-point scale:70-79, commercially sound; 80-84, good;85-89, very good; 90-94, excellent; and95-100, world class. Send questions incare of the Daily Press, or e-mail them tobobwino@aol.com.

WineLines

BY BOB JOHNSON

Russell Gearhart/Staff PhotographerThe Blue Ridge Sirloin is stuffed with gorgonzola cheese and accompanied by rustic garlic mashed potatoes.

Russell Gearhart/Staff PhotographerThe secret to the Serrano Chicken Sandwich’s flavor is a spicy Southwest sauce.

Russell Gearhart/Staff PhotographerInferno Ridge Dip, named for a peak at Mountain High, is aspicy blend of roasted red bell peppers, onions, jalapeñosand cream cheese.

per and grill until done, placingcheese on top of each piece atend of cooking to melt slightly.Toast rolls.

Assemble sandwiches withtomato, avocado and Southwestsauce and eat.

Southwest Sauce: Combine all the ingredients in

a food processor and process un-til smooth.

Let the dressing stand for atleast in hour to blend the flavors.Keep in refrigerator. There willbe extra sauce, which can beused up in sandwiches, salads orwraps.

Yield: Serves 4Source: Executive Chef Jason

Hill, San Andreas Grill, Moun-tain High Ski Resort, Wright-wood

SAN ANDREAS GRILL’SINFERNO RIDGE DIP

8 ounces cream cheese, softened1⁄3 cup roasted red bell peppers,

drained well2⁄3 cup pepper jack cheese, grated

1⁄4 teaspoon garlic powder1-2 dashes cayenne pepper,

or more to taste1⁄2 cup chopped onion

1⁄4 cup pickled jalapeños,stemmed and drained well

4 chives, chopped fine4 ounces pimentos, drained

Blend everything but chivesand pimentos together in foodprocessor. After done, stir in thepimentos and chives for texture.Add salt to taste. Serve warmwith grilled white pita bread tri-angles.

Yield: Serves 6-8Source: Executive Chef Jason

Hill, San Andreas Grill, Moun-

tain High Ski Resort, Wright-wood

SAN ANDREAS GRILL’SBLUE RIDGE SIRLOIN

4 (10-ounce) prime top sirloin steaks 2 cups crumbled gorgonzola cheese

Montreal Steak Seasoning

On the side of each filet, cut a2-inch slit with a sharp paringknife forming a pocket for thecheese.

Stuff each steak with 4 table-spoons of cheese.

Rub steak with a little olive oil,just to barely coat, about 1⁄2 ta-blespoon per steak. Season thesteaks with Montreal steak sea-soning.

Heat barbecue or grill to high.Grill on both sides until it reach-es your desired doneness.

Place each steak on the platewith a helping of garlic mashedpotatoes and vegetable kabobs.Top steaks with more bluecheese if desired.

Yield: 4 main-course servingsSource: Executive Chef Jason

Hill, San Andreas Grill, Moun-tain High Ski Resort, Wright-wood

RUSTIC GARLIC

MASHED POTATOES

6 medium russet potatoes2 cups heavy cream

1 stick butter1 clove minced garlic

salt and fresh ground pepper, to taste1⁄4 cup grated parmesan cheese,

optional

In a saucepan, melt butterwith garlic.

After butter melts, whisk incream. Bring to a simmer andset aside, keeping warm.

Skin potatoes, or leave on for“rustic” style. Boil potatoes anddrain. While potatoes are stillhot, mash them, whisking in acup of butter-cream mixture at atime until it reaches your de-sired consistency.

Whisk in1⁄4 cup grated parme-san cheese (optional) and salt

and pepper to taste.Yield: Serves 6Source: Executive Chef Jason

Hill, San Andreas Grill, Moun-tain High Ski Resort, Wright-wood

SAN ANDREAS GRILL’SVEGETABLE KABOBS

Zucchini, slicedYellow squash, slicedWhole mushrooms

Red Onions, quartered

Marinate vegetables in a littlemelted butter and season withsalt and pepper.

Place on skewers and grill onbarbecue.

Brush with melted butter asthey are cooking.

Source: Executive Chef JasonHill, San Andreas Grill, Moun-tain High Ski Resort, Wright-wood

GRILL / From D1

with asperities softened, differ-ences harmonized and victoryorganized.”

Among the menus in the cook-book are for a state dinner at theWhite House, Mrs. Cleveland’sWedding Lunch (June 4, 1888)and General Grant’s BirthdayDinner.

“My mother found the book inan alley trash can in Long Beachover 50 years ago,” said Heck-ethorn. “Since then, I have keptit sealed in plastic.”

Stockdale said her copy was awedding gift to her mother in1908.

“It not only has recipes, but al-so includes carving, table set-tings, etiquette and many otherhelpful suggestions,” said Stock-dale. “When we moved out toCalifornia in 1912, I was 11months old. We raised all kindsof animals, and she used thiscookbook to cook wild duck, andour own beef and pork.”

Cambridge, who inherited thebook from her great aunt, thenher mother, said the book is awonderful read. “Some of themeasurements are in tea cups,”she said. “The recipes for oys-ters are interesting, as well asthe stewed frogs!”

Following are a few recipesfrom the book.

CHARLOTTE RUSSE NO. 2

1 sponge cake, thinly sliced3 egg whites

3 tablespoons powdered sugar1 glass sweet wine

1 pint thick sweet cream

Put some thin slices of spongecake in the bottom of a glasssauce dish; pour in (sweet) wineenough to soak it; beat up thewhites of three eggs until verylight; add to it three tablespoon-fuls of finely powdered sugar, aglass of sweet wine and one pintof thick sweet cream; beat itwell and pour over the cake. Setit in a cold place until served.

Source: “The White HouseCook Book,” by Hugo Ziemannand F. L. Gillette. First printing1887; 1900 by the Saalfield Pub-lishing Company (New York,Akron, Ohio and Chicago).

TENNESSEE MUFFINS

1 pint cornmeal1 pint flour

1 tablespoon sugar1 teaspoon salt

3 teaspoons baking powder1 tablespoon lard or butter

2 eggs1 pint milk

One pint of corn meal, onepint of flour, one tablespoonfulof sugar, one teaspoonful of salt,three of baking powder, one ta-blespoonful of lard or butter, twoeggs and a pint of milk. Sift to-gether corn meal, flour, sugar,salt and powder; rub in lard orbutter cold, and eggs beaten andmilk; mix into batter of consis-tency of cup-cake; muffin-ringsto be cold and well greased, thenfill two-thirds full. Bake in hotoven fifteen minutes.

Source: “The White HouseCook Book,” by Hugo Ziemannand F. L. Gillette. First printing1887; 1900 by the Saalfield Pub-lishing Company (New York,

Akron, Ohio and Chicago).

RASPBERRY SHRUB

1 quart raspberry juice1⁄2 pound sugar

1 pint Jamaican rum

One quart of raspberry juice,half a pound of sugar, dissolved,a pint of Jamaica rum, or partrum and brandy. Mix thoroughly.Bottle for use.

Source: “The White HouseCook Book,” by Hugo Ziemannand F. L. Gillette. First printing1887; 1900 by the Saalfield Pub-lishing Company (New York,Akron, Ohio and Chicago).

CHOW CHOW

(SUPERIOR ENGLISH

RECIPE)

1 quart young, tiny cucumbers,not over two inches long2 quarts pearl onions

2 quarts tender string beans, halved3 quarts green tomatoes,

sliced and chopped2 fresh heads of cauliflower,

cut into small pieces, or two heads of white hard cabbage

1 ounce turmeric6 red peppers, chopped coarsely

4 tablespoons mustard seed2 tablespoons celery seed

2 tablespoons whole allspice2 tablespoons whole cloves

1 coffee cup sugar2⁄3 tea cup ground mustard

Good-quality cider vinegar, to cover

This excellent pickle is sel-

dom made at home, as we canget the imported article so muchbetter than it can be made fromthe usual recipes. This we vouchfor as being as near the genuinearticle as can be made.

One quart of young, tiny cu-cumbers, not over two incheslong, two quarts of very smallwhite onions, two quarts of ten-der string beans, each one cut inhalves, three quarts of greentomatoes, sliced and choppedvery coarsely, two fresh headsof cauliflower, cut into smallpieces, or two heads of whitehard cabbage.

After preparing these articles,put them in a stone jar, mix themtogether, sprinkling salt betweenthem sparingly. Let them standtwenty four hours, then drain offall the brine that has accumulat-ed.

Now put these vegetables in apreserving kettle over the fire,sprinkling through them anounce of turmeric for coloring,six red peppers, chopped coarse-ly, four tablespoonfuls of mus-tard seed, two of celery seed,two of whole allspice, two ofwhole cloves, a coffee cup ofsugar, and two-thirds of a teacup of best ground mustard.

Pour on enough of the bestcider vinegar to cover the wholewell; cover tightly and simmerall well until it is cooked allthrough and seems tender,watching and stirring it often.

Put in bottles or glass jars. Itgrows better as it grows older,especially if sealed when hot.

Source: “The White HouseCook Book,” by Hugo Ziemannand F. L. Gillette. First printing1887; 1900 by the Saalfield Pub-lishing Company (New York,Akron, Ohio and Chicago).

VINTAGE / From D1

Q. I re-cently ate ata Japaneserestaurantand had themost won-derful greentea icecream. I amhaving ahard time lo-cating Asianmarkets thatsell this andwas hopingfor a possi-ble home-made recipe. Please help me! —Stephanie Schwab, Hesperia

A. Here’s a recipe that I pub-lished in April 1999. BJ’s HealthFood in Victorville can specialorder Starwest Green Tea Pow-der by the pound. Other healthstores/Asian stores should beable to order it as well.

GREEN TEA ICE CREAM

1 quart milk1⁄2 ounce Japanese green tea powder

15 egg yolks1 pound sugar

1 cup heavy cream1 cup half-and-half

Bring milk to a boil. Removefrom heat and add green tea. Mixwell.

In a separate bowl, beat eggyolks and sugar until they form aribbon. Combine egg mixturewith milk, then strain into asaucepan. Cook over medium-high heat until just before themixture reaches a boil. Removefrom heat and cool completelyover ice water.

Beat heavy cream and half-and-half in a bowl over some icewater until frothy. Pour into eggmixture and mix well.

Process in ice cream makeraccording to manufacturer’s di-rections. Freeze 2-3 hours beforeserving.

Source: Yoshi Katsumura,Chicago

Q. I’m looking for recipe forcranberry-orange marmalade. —Mike, via e-mail

Jenny Brenner of Spring Val-ley Lake wrote to us with the fol-lowing recipe. “I got this recipefrom the Ball Canning Book,”she said. “It is good!”

CRANBERRY-ORANGE

MARMALADE

2 cups stemmed cranberries 1⁄2 teaspoon grated orange peel

2 cups concord grape juice3 cups sugar

Combine juice, cranberries

and orange peel in a large saucepot. Bring to a boil. Add sugar:bring slowly to a boil, stirring un-til sugar dissolves. Cook rapidlyto jellying point, about 5 minutes.Stir to prevent sticking. Pour in-to jars, and if not canning, justkeep in fridge.

Source: Jenny Brenner ofSpring Valley Lake

To request a recipe, or respond to areader’s request, write to Cook’s Ex-change, c/o Food, Daily Press, P.O. Box1389, Victorville, CA 92392 or e-mailveronica@link.freedom.com

Requests of general interest will bepublished. Restaurant recipes are pub-lished after we receive a responsefrom the restaurant.

Please include your full name, cityand phone number. Because of thevolume of mail, it may take some timefor the recipe to appear in print andpersonal replies are not always possi-ble. Visit us on the Web atwww.highdesert.com/food/index.html

Cook’sExchangeBY VERONICA HILL

Page D2 Daily Press/Victorville, Calif. FOOD Wednesday, June 20, 2001

Green Tea Ice Cream the perfect treat for summer