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Sajith Abeyrathne

COSMETOLOGY

PROFESSIONAL COURSE

Module 07

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7. Module 07: Nail Art

Table of Contents

7. Module 07: Nail Art ........................................................................................................................... 1

7.1 Introduction ............................................................................................................................................... 2

7.2 Types of nail polish ..................................................................................................................................... 3

7.3 Tools and methods of decorating nails MATERIALS TO USE ..................................................................... 4

7.3.1 MAGNETIC NAILS .............................................................................................................................. 5

7.3.2 Stamping nail polish technique ......................................................................................................... 6

7.3.3 CRACKED NAIL ART ........................................................................................................................... 7

7.3.4 SPONGING TECHNIQUE..................................................................................................................... 7

7.3.5 BRUSH TECHNIQUE ........................................................................................................................... 8

7.3.6 DOTS .................................................................................................................................................. 8

7.3.7 LINES ................................................................................................................................................. 9

7.3.8 DRAWINGS ...................................................................................................................................... 10

7.3.9 FRENCH MANICURE ........................................................................................................................ 11

7.3.10 GLITTER ......................................................................................................................................... 12

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7.1 Introduction

What you’ll learn in this module:

Types of nail polish

Novelty finishes - magnetic, stamping, cracked, top coat

Colours and trends

Tools you need and how to add decorations.

Materials used

Special techniques - sponge, brush, orange stick, magnetic, cracked, stamping.

Lines and drawings

French Manicure

Glitter

Nail art techniques_01 - video tutorial

Nail art techniques_02 - video tutorial

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7.2 Types of nail polish

Besides the typical glazes that are available in the market there are some characteristic glazes

you can also use to decorate nails. To make up the entire nail with enamel, take the brush with

product, start in the middle of the nail and then make up the sides.

MAGNETIC

These glazes contain metallic pigments that react when a magnet approaches them. The metallic pigments

are grouped into patterns of stars, lines etc. You can find these polishes in various colours and metallic

pigments that form different patterns.

STAMPING

These glazes look the same as normal enamels. But the difference is that they are heavier and are used to

make prints with a stamp. (See Module 4.2)

CRACKED.

These glazes are characterised by how they crack when dry, giving the effect of dry, cracked earth. They are

typically used with a normal enamel underneath and applied as a second cracked layer. Once dry, it’s

necessary to apply a layer of clear nail polish on top.

TOP COAT

This is a fast drying, clear nail polish, more dense than regular clear polish. It’s only used as a finishing coat,

for example on top of cracked polish or stickers.

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Colours and trends

There are colours that are classic and never go out of style. Black and red are two of them. They complement

outfits in a sophisticated way. Black comes in different shades and red shades also vary from a bright scarlet

to a dark garnet.

The latest trends include two distinct branches of colour. One of these is a range of nude colours like beige,

sand or pink. They give a romantic look to your hands. On the other hand you can choose pastels or

fluorescent colours like green, pink, fuchsia, yellow, orange and coral tones.

Bright, bold colours give your hands a fresh, sporty look. Go for lime green or bright emerald. Intense coral

tones give way to orange metallic, without forgetting the purest yellows. The reds have the widest range

and, beyond the basic red, you’ll find shades like watermelon, strawberry red or pink. You’ll also find fuchsia

with a metallic finish.

The above tones and varieties also come in paler, pastel shades. They are less intense colours and easy to

match with many outfits. Pinks are most common and you’ll also find mauve, mint green and lilac. Soft

oranges and muted yellows blend well with many of the ranges of garments in fashion at the moment.

7.3 Tools and methods of decorating nails

MATERIALS TO USE

1. CARTOON STICKERS: These are flat, patterned stickers with adhesive on one side to stick to the

nail.

2. SPONGE: With fine pores, it is used to make a blurred effect on the nails.

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3. STAMPING KIT: It consists of a metal plate with engraved drawings, a blade for removing the

enamel and a buffer with a plastic base.

4. BRUSH FOR LINES: It has long thin bristles used for drawing lines and stripes.

5. ORANGEWOOD STICK: An orange wood stick and has one pointed side and another cut at an

angle.

6. BRUSH: Consists of short, semi-rigid bristles and used to apply glitter.

7. MAGNETIC NAIL POLISH KIT: Consists of a special enamel with metallic pigments and a magnet.

8. GLITTER: These are small pieces of shiny material used to decorate nails. There are different

colours of glitter.

7.3.1 MAGNETIC NAILS

To apply this nail art you need a specific magnetic enamel and a magnet. Apply the nail polish on the nail

and then hold the magnet parallel over the nail without touching it while it’s drying. Wait about 2 minutes.

This procedure must be repeated nail by nail. Apply the polish, hold the magnet over the nail and wait. Each

enamel makes a drawing with the metallic pigments. You just have to choose the color and the look you like,

taking into consideration that horizontal stripes widen the nail. Vertical stripes give a more stylish look and

a star on your nail gives a more rounded appearance.

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7.3.2 Stamping nail polish technique

For this nail art you need a stamping kit. It consists of a specific stamping enamel, a metal sheet with the

engraving of several drawings, a metal spatula and stamping pad with a plastic base. Chose the design you

want to print on the nails. Apply the nail enamel over the metal sheet.

Remove the excess enamel with the metal spatula.

Take the stamping pad and press over the drawing you’ve just filled with polish – it will pick up the drawing.

Roll the stamping pad over the nail carefully and the drawing will transfer to the nail. Finish by applying a

top coat or clear polish. Clean the metal plate and spatula well with acetone after each application.

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7.3.3 CRACKED NAIL ART

This type of enamel cracks and reveals the layer below so the first thing you do is apply a normal nail colour.

Once dry, apply the second coat in cracked enamel. Apply the glaze first in the centre and then on the sides.

Allow it to dry and see how, slowly, the top enamel separates creating a cracked effect and showing the

bottom color. Apply a top coat or clear nail polish to secure the cracked layer.

7.3.4 SPONGING TECHNIQUE

With this technique you can create a blurred effect with nail polish. You use normal enamels. Choose at least

two tones. You need a fine pore sponge. You can cut the sponge into small squares. The sponge is discarded

after each use.

Apply one of the enamels on the nail and allow to dry. Take some foil and place a couple of drops of the

second enamel on it. Dip the sponge into this enamel and apply a small dab on the middle of the nail.

Use the sponge to dab the second colour towards on the tip of the nail. This creates a more intense colour

on the centre of the nail which fades towards the tip. Allow to dry.

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7.3.5 BRUSH TECHNIQUE

The brushes for this type of decor have long, fine bristles, which are sparsely populated. With the brush you

can make lines on the nails. Choose at least two normal enamel colors. Polish the nail with one color. Allow

to dry. Insert the brush into the second enamel and paint lines on the nail.

To make horizontal lines, place the brush sideways on the nail and sweep across the nail.

To make vertical lines, placed the tip of the brush at the edge of the cuticle and gently work the bristles down

along the nail. Repeat the operation as many times as necessary until you’ve drawn the lines you want.

7.3.6 DOTS

With the orange stick you can make dots on nails. It's very simple. Put a couple of drops of a normal nail

colour on some foil. Dip the conical tip of the orange stick in the enamel.

Rest the orange stick on the nail and press into the enamel, making a dot of the new color.

If you want small dots, take a small amount of enamel. For big dots, use a larger amount.

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7.3.7 LINES

To draw straight lines and uniform colored stripes on nails there are stickers available to help apply these

for a perfect finish. They can be used for French manicures or to make multi-colored stripes. They are easy

to use and you can choose either a rounded or straight finish.

Break off a sticker and place it carefully on the nail the way you want it to look. You’re making a horizontal

border at the tip of the nail. Apply the glaze below the sticker, but it doesn’t matter if you go over the sticker.

Allow to dry.

Remove the sticker slowly and make sure it doesn’t stick to the rest of the nail as you’re removing.

In sticker rolls you can find very narrow strips of colour. Simply place the strip on the nail in a horizontal,

vertical or diagonal direction, using the orange stick to guide you. Cut the excess sticker edges with a nail

scissors and set with a top coat or clear polish.

Instructions

Magnetic In this video we'll use blue magnetic enamel and a magnet. For this style, you need a

specific magnetic enamel and a nail magnet. Apply the magnetic polish to the nails, in this case

blue. Apply a thick layer and allow to dry. Hold the magnet parallel to the surface of the nail

without touching it. Wait about 2 minutes. This must be repeated nail by nail - apply polish, hold

the magnet over the nail and wait. You’ll see that the enamel metallic pigments move and form

ripples in the enamel.

Stamping In this video we'll use glossy pink, black and transparent enamel, metal plate, plastic

buffer and metal spatula. Apply the nail polish base, in this case a glossy pink. Next, we need a

stamping kit. This comprises of a specific metal stamping sheet with several engraved drawings,

a printing buffer with a plastic base and a metal spatula. Choose the design you want to print.

Spread the nail polish on the metal drawing sheet and remove the excess with the metal spatula.

Press the buffer with plastic base carefully on the drawing and thus infuse the enamel on the

buffer. Roll the buffer over the nail carefully and your nail drawing will transfer. Apply clear nail

polish.

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Cracked In this video we'll use pink enamel, black cracked enamel and transparent enamel.

Apply a base enamel, in this case pink. Allow to dry. Then, apply the cracked polish to the centre

of the nail and then on the sides. Let it dry and see how the enamel slowly separates, creating a

cracked effect. Apply clear nail polish to secure the cracked one.

Sponge technique In this video we'll use green enamel, pink enamel, foil paper and a porous

sponge. You need two different colours of enamel, in this case green and pink. Apply a base nail

polish and allow to dry, in this case a green colour. Place on a couple of drops of pink enamel

onto a piece of foil. Dip the sponge into the enamel and apply a small dab on the middle of the

nail. Allow to dry.

Brush stroke technique In this video we'll use red and black enamel and a nail art brush. Choose

two colours of normal enamel, in this case red and black. Make up the nails with red enamel.

Allow to dry. Open the black enamel and dip in the nail art brush so it is fully coated with polish.

Draw lines on the nail. Start at the base and simply draw lines from one side to the other. Repeat

the operation as many times as necessary until you have all the lines you want. We again dip the

brush in the black enamel and draw the second line.

7.3.8 DRAWINGS

In the shops or online you’ll also find stickers with drawings that are simple to apply. You can

apply a top coat of varnish over them or leave without.

Peel off the drawing from its sheet and apply to the nail using your orange stick to firmly put in

place.

Apply a top coat of varnish to finish if you wish.

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7.3.9 FRENCH MANICURE

The French manicure is the most popular in nail makeovers. White enamel and pink are the classic colours.

But this style has also evolved into more intense, contrasting colours. Apart from being a classic manicure it

is a particular technique.

The idea is to paint the tip of the nail with a different colour from the base of the nail. For this technique

there are stickers (see above) to help define and cover the tip or free edge of the nail (the white part) so you

can apply enamel smoothly.

To do it by hand with a brush apply the colour from the edge of the nail towards the centre using only the

tip of the nail brush and carefully skirting the nail. It is important that you do this from the side to the centre.

If you want to do a classic French manicure, choose white and pink enamel. Start with the white colour on

the tip of the nail and allow to dry. One layer is enough. Then apply the pink enamel all over the nail and

allow to dry. If you want a more intense pink colour, apply a second coat.

If you choose other more contrasting colours complete the manicure by applying a coloured glaze on the

entire nail. Allow to dry.

Apply the second colour at the tip of the nail, either with stickers or freehand. One layer is enough. Allow to

dry.

If you have smudged any enamel on your fingers or under your nails, wrap a cotton pad on your orange stick,

dip in nail polish remover and clean off.

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7.3.10 GLITTER

To decorate nails with glitter, the first step is to apply a layer of either coloured or transparent

enamel.

Insert the brush into the pot of glitter and place on the nail while the enamel is still wet. The

glitter will stay attached to the enamel.

Allow the first polish to dry and then apply a layer of top coat or clear polish.