Sailor Moon Pattern - Jen Vasseur...

S A I L O R MOON AM IGURUM I By: Bellis1282

On Ravelry: http://ravel.me/Bellis1282/sm Email: [email protected]

SAILOR MOON AMIGURUMI 2

Materials:

-‐ E (3.5mm) sized hook

o A note on hook size: I work VERY tightly and often use a hook size

larger than most. If you find your gauge is not as tight drop to a size D

-‐ Worsted weight yarn in the following colors:

o A list of the exact yarns I used can be found on Ravelry at:

http://ravel.me/Bellis1282/sm

Beige (skin color)

Red (boot and detail color)

White (outfit, glove and detail color)

Blue (skirt and collar color)

Yellow (something suitable for blonde hair)

-‐ Felt in the following colors:

o Red (for the bows and hair covers)

o White (for hair covers)

-‐ Embroidery Floss in the following colors:

o Red

o White

o Yellow

-‐ Polyester fiberfill

-‐ Tapestry needle

-‐ Two 6mm black safety eyes

-‐ Yarn needle


Stitch Key:

Mr = magic ring

Ch = chain

Sc = single crochet

St = Stitch

Sts = Stitches

Sl = Slip Stitch

Rnd = Round

Dc = Double Crochet

Dec = Decrease

Invdec = Invisible Decrease

Special Stitch Explanation:

Magic Ring – I personally like to use a magic ring to begin all my amigurumi rounds so in

this pattern that is how I begin, but wherever you see Mr you can gladly substitute your

preferred method. If you haven’t tried a magic ring there are a lot of great tutorials

online.

Invdec – While you can always just decrease the two stitches together that will leave an

unsightly bump. I recommend using an invisible decrease when working in the round.

This is done by pushing the hook down into only the front loop of the St and without

yarning over push the hook up through only the front loop of the next stitch. Yarn over

once and pull through all but one loop on the hook and then yarn over and pull through

for your single crochet invisible decrease (noted in this pattern as Invdec).

Dec – For the collar You will need to do a basic decrease by going through one St, yarn

over and go through the next St, yarn over and pull through all but one loop then yarn

over and pull through for a single crochet decrease.


Notes: -‐ Most of this pattern is done by working in the round. Unless otherwise noted

do not join and work in continuous rounds. Mark beginning of each round

with a stitch marker and keep track of your stitch count.

-‐ This pattern is written in the best order to create each item and then sew

pieces together. The legs and body must be made first.

Pattern:

Legs (make 2): Rnd1: With Red Mr 6 Sc (6)

Rnd2: (Sc in next St, 2 Sc in next St) around (9)

Rnd3-‐5: Sc in each St around, change to white in last St of Rnd (9)

Rnd6: Sc in each St around, change to beige in last St of round (9)

Rnd7-‐8: Sc in each St around (9)

Body: Note: The body and head are worked from bottom to top because the hair covers any

bumpiness from decreasing on the top of the head. You could stop at round 10 and then

do the head backwards if you would prefer your decreases around the neck. I originally

tried that changed it to allow for more room around the neck when attaching the collar.

Since the head and body being sewn together would make for a bulkier neck

Rnd1: place the insides of the legs together (I prefer to put the sides where the

colors don’t line up together) and with the two Sts closest to each other put your

hook through both loops, yarn over and pull through both loops and Sc. This St

will not be counted in St total. Now Sc around one leg (8) and continue on to the

next leg (8) for a total of (16)

Rnd2: (2 Sc in next St, Sc in next 7 Sts) around (18)


Rnd3: (Sc in next 2 Sts, 2 Sc in next St) around (24) begin to stuff making sure

legs are stuffed firmly and continue

stuffing as you go.

Rnd4: Sc I each St around (24)

Rnd5: Working in back loops only (skirt

will be attached to these loops) sc in each

St around (24)

Rnd6: Sc in each St around (24)

Rnd7: (Invdec, sc in next 6 Sts) around (21)

Rnd8: Sc in each St around (21)

Rnd9: (sc in next 5 Sts, Invdec) around (18)

Rnd10: (Invdec, Sc in next St) around

switching to beige in last St (12)

Rnd11: (2 Sc in next St, Sc in next St)

around (18)

Rnd12: (Sc in next 2 Sts, 2 Sc in next St) around (24)


Rnd14: (Sc in next 4 Sts, 2 sc in next St) around (36)

Rnd 15-‐18: Sc in each St around (36)

Rnd19: (Invdec, Sc in next 4 Sts) around (30)

Rnd20: (Sc in next 3 Sts, Invdec) around (24)

Rnd21: (invdec, Sc in next 2 Sts) around (18)

Attach eyes between rows 17 & 18

Rnd22: (Sc in next St, Invdec) around (12)

Finish stuffing piece

Rnd23: Invdec around (6)

Sew opening closed and fasten off


Hair

Top of Hair: Rnd1: With yellow Mr 6 Sc (6)

Rnd2: 2 Sc in each St around (12)

Rnd3: (Sc in next St, 2 Sc in next St) around (18)

Rnd4: (Sc in next 2 Sts, 2 Sc in next St) around (24)


Rnd6: (Sc in the next 4 Sts, 2 Sc in the next St) around (36)

Rnd7-‐11: Sc in each St around (36)

Bangs: -‐ Decide what side you want to

be the front of the hair and

place on the doll’s head. Pick

the St just above the eye and

count over 4 more Sts and

mark this St. This is were you

begin.

-‐ Take the hair off the head and

with yellow join with a Sl, Ch 5

then Sl into the next St Ch 5

and repeat the process 3 more

times crocheting to the left

(until you reach the St that’s

just above the eye).

-‐ Count 8 Sts over and repeat the process this time crocheting toward the right

and toward the bangs you already created. There should be 3 Sts between the

bangs.


Hairballs (or for you Sailor Moon fans, Dumplings… or if you watched the Dubbed version meatballs ;-‐) ) (Make 2): Rnd1: With yellow MR 6 (6)

Rnd2: (Sc in next St, 2 Sc in next) around (9)

Rnd3: (2Sc in next St, sc in next 2 Sts) around (12)

Rnd4: Sc in all Sts around (12)

Rnd5: (Invdec, Sc in next 2 Sts) around (9)

Stuff firmly

Rnd6: Invdec in all Sts around (6)

Pigtails (Make 2): Row1: Ch 27, Dc in 3rd St from hook, continue to DC 24 more times to the end of

the chain.

Row2: Ch1 and turn, Sc back along all 25 Sts

-‐ Sl at the base and Ch 10 to form curl at the end of pigtail

Assembly Sew pigtails to the base of each “hairball” and then place them on either side of

the hair cap (I prefer to do this will the hair is on the head so I can be certain the

bangs and pigtails are all placed properly) mark the spot and then remove the

hair from the head and sew “hairball” in place with yellow yarn. Repeat the

process for the next “hairball “ with pigtail.

-‐ Set the hair aside for sewing to head later (which is the last step).

Skirt: Rnd1: Work in the front loops of Rnd4 keeping the head pointed toward you.

Join blue with a Sl and begin in same St as join (Sc in next 3 Sts, 2sc in next St)

around (30).

Rnd2: (2Sc in next St, Sc in next 4 Sts) around (36)

Rnd3: (Ch3 and Sc in St) around


Arms (Make 2): Rnd1: With white Mr 6 Sc (6)

Rnd2: (2 Sc in next St, Sc in next St) around (9)

Rnd3: (Sc in next St, Invdec) around (6)

Rnd4: Sc in all Sts around (6) change to red in last St

Rnd5: Sc in all Sts (6) change to beige in last St

Rnd6-‐7: Sc in all Sts around.

-‐ Stuff lightly

-‐ Sew to body just at neck

Collar Row1: Ch 9, Sc in 2nd St from hook and continue to Sc back along Ch for (8)

Row2: Ch 1, turn, Sc in each (8)

Row3: Ch 1, turn, Sc in each (8)

First Collar Side: -‐ (Ch 1, turn, Sc in next 2) repeat 4 times

-‐ Dec last row to 1 St

-‐ Repeat on the two end stitches on the other side of the collar.

Assembly -‐ With white embroidery floss stitch two rows of white around the collar (see

image for reference).

-‐ Stretch the collar sides tightly around the neck above the arm and tuck it into

the neck area as best you can with the white stripes facing up. Sew the two

collar sides together with blue yarn (they won’t quite meet up but will be

covered by the bow).


Remaining Assembly

Bows: -‐ Cut two strips of red felt (strips should be long enough so that when they are

formed into loops with overlap in the back they are the proper width of the

bow).

-‐ Cut two “v” shapes from the felt (this will serve as bow tails).

-‐ Fold one strip into a loop and using an embroidery needle threaded with

yellow embroidery floss poke through front of bow and the overlapped

pieces in the back.

-‐ Place a “v” shape behind the loop and poke through that with the needle as

well.

-‐ Pull quite a bit of floss through and then wrap around with yellow floss until

the right amount is wrapped around (see picture for reference)

-‐ Repeat with other strip and ”v” shape but this time use red floss

-‐ The bow with the yellow floss gets sewn to the front were the collar sides are

sewn together and the one with the red floss gets sewn to the middle of the

back at the top of the skit.


Mouth: -‐ Cut a half oval out of red felt and sew to lower part of face between the eyes

with red floss

Tiara: -‐ Cute a large thing “v” shape from yellow felt and sew to center part of head

right in the middle of tiara with red embroidery floss (test position by placing

hair over tiara first before sewing in place)

-‐ Ends of tiara should be long enough so they get tucked under the hair.

Because the hair will be sewn into place there is now need to sew tiara ends.

Hair: -‐ Cut two red circles and two white circles (slightly larger then the red ones)

that will be the “hairball” covers.

-‐ Sew the red circle to the white with red embroidery floss and then sew the

white circle to the “hairball” of the pigtail with white floss and repeat on the

second hairball (see images for positioning help)

-‐ Position hair over tiara and with bangs just over eyes, and bang part right in

the middle and sew around the edge with yellow yarn

All Done! Enjoy your homemade Sailor Moon doll.

Find errors? I’m really sorry! Please let me know at [email protected].

Sailor Moon Pattern - Jen Vasseur...

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