Sabah, Borneo

19th – 31st October 2014

Leader: Dave Bakewell

Participants: Mark Eaton, Bill Grossi,

Malcolm and Sue Hillier, Steve James, Todd Pepper

Bristlehead, Danum Valley © Dave Bakewell/Birdtour Asia

Sabah’s combination of spectacular montane, lowland and riverine rainforest, modern infrastructure, excellent

accommodation and food, and above all, a mouth-watering selection of Bornean endemic and near-endemic

birds make it an irresistible destination for birders from all over the globe, and it has become one of our most

popular and well-established tour destinations over the years. Highlights from the mountainous areas included

Mountain Serpent Eagle, Giant and Bornean Swiftlets, all the endemic barbets, Whitehead’s Trogon and

Spiderhunter, great views of Crimson-headed Partridge, Bornean Stubtail, Friendly Bush warbler and all the

commoner montane endemics. The lowlands were not to be outdone, with good numbers of all possible

hornbills, Storm’s Stork, Black-crowned and Blue-headed Pittas, an unexpected Large Frogmouth, excellent

views of Bornean Ground Babbler, and, on the last day, a party of enigmatic and spectacular Bristleheads.

Mammals provided plenty of memorable interludes to the birding, from tiny Plain Pygmy Squirrels to the

impressive bulk of Asian Pygmy Elephants. Other mammalian highlights included fleeting views of a delightful

Malay Weasel, three species of flying squirrel, and best of all, a magnificent male Orang-utan feasting on the

fruit of a gigantic fig. In all, 272 bird species were recorded (23 heard only), including 43 Bornean endemics.

There were 23 mammal species observed, of which 11 were endemic to Borneo.

Female Whitehead’s Trogon © Steve James Eye-browed Jungle Flycatcher

Our first day’s plan had to be modified due to a major landslide which had washed away the road to Tambunan,

and as a result we found ourselves in the cool forests of Kinabalu National Park HQ at first light, after a very

early start from Kota Kinabalu. While finishing off our field breakfast, a close calling Crimson-headed Partridge

tempted us onto a trail. Despite the partridge remaining out of view, the trail provided us with our first Bornean

endemics; Bornean Whistling Thrush on the trail, a small party of Bornean Green Magpies overhead, and a

group of Bare-headed Laughingthrushes showing off their bizarre blue and yellow facial skin as they called. A

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch was seen briefly. These birds apart, the trails were generally quiet, but with patience

we gradually connected with more species; Snowy-browed Flycatchers were confiding and showy; White-

browed Shortwings much less so, until we eventually found one which came onto the trail providing excellent

views of this vocally distinct endemic taxon. Grey-throated Babblers, Bornean Whistlers and Blyth’s Shrike-

babblers showed several times, and at the lower end of the trail we found one of our target birds – a female

Whitehead’s Trogon, which gave prolonged and close views. Shortly after the trogon, a Bornean Forktail put in

an appearance; initially glimpsed but eventually watched preening and bathing. This was much appreciated by

the whole group, but especially by Steve, for whom it ‘completed the set’ of this entrancing and iconic oriental

genus. Birding along the road added more passerines; Indigo and Little Pied Flycatchers, Black-capped White-

eye and Black-sided Flowerpecker, Mountain and Yellow-breasted Warblers, and over lunch we were entertained

by impossibly brightly coloured Temminck’s Sunbirds. A flurry of bird activity after lunch gave us better views

of many of the species seen earlier, and an obliging Eye-browed Jungle Flycatcher was new. Afternoon birding

down the road brought scant reward for our efforts as the clouds descended, with Maroon Woodpecker being

the only addition, so, with some of the party having had no sleep the previous night and another early start in

prospect, we checked into our accommodation for some much-needed rest.

Our second day found us at the Rafflesia Reserve, above Tambunan, via the ‘long way round’, inspecting the

massive landslide that had taken a substantial section of the road downslope just beyond the Rafflesia Centre.

One advantage of this was that we had the road to ourselves, and bird activity was good. We soon added

Bornean and Mountain Barbets, both perched obligingly in treetops, before a Whitehead’s Spiderhunter diverted

our attention. Mountain Serpent Eagles were vocal and we had distant views of one soaring distantly in the blue

sky. Later in the morning one flew much closer overhead, but by this time the clouds had descended and it

drifted out of view into them. Temminck’s Babblers were vocal but unobtrusive, and it took some time for the

whole group to get satisfactory views. There were no such problems with Bornean Leafbirds, Bornean and

Cinereous Bulbuls. The landslide prevented us from exploring higher elevations, and it also meant we had to go

down to Tambunan for lunch. Returning after lunch, we walked uphill from the landslide along the road for a

couple of kilometres. Activity was low till some rain showers, which seemed to perk the birds up somewhat, and

we added Bornean Spiderhunter and Checker-throated Woodpecker, and had further sightings of Bornean

Barbet and Bornean Leafbird. Other birds seen at various points in the day included Bar-winged Flycatcher

Shrike, Little Cuckoo Dove and more Blyth’s Shrike Babblers.

Mountain Barbet, Mountain Serpent Eagle, Bornean Leafbird and Bornean Bulbul

We were back in the Park before dawn the following day, where we got tantalizingly close to a Mountain Scops

Owl, at one point seeing it fly over our heads, without ever getting a view of it perched. Just after first light, we

headed into the forest in search of Everett’s Thrush and partridges, but found the trail birdless until the lower

end, when we got views of Golden-naped Barbet and Sunda Cuckooshrike high in the canopy, and an obliging

Bornean Stubtail much closer and at eye-level, where we were able to appreciate how much more striking this

species is than field guides show. A trek down one of the longer trails brought us within distance of a calling

Crimson-headed Partridge. After some time waiting, the bird was seen briefly by only one of us, before it lapsed

into silence and disappeared. Before we had too much time to reflect on our bad luck with this bird, we rounded

a bend in the trail to find a pair feeding right in front of us! They seemed unconcerned by our presence, and

after a couple of minutes during which they walked towards us, the female jumped down off the trail. The show

was not over yet, however, as the male stopped at the edge of the trail, threw his head back and gave us a

near-deafening rendition of his ‘song’, before sauntering off to join his mate. Barely suppressed whoops of

elation followed, as we all recognized we had been privileged to experience one of those moments that live long

in the memory and make the early morning starts and wearying treks worthwhile. This was always going to be

a hard act to follow, but at the lower end of the trail, walk-away views of a pair of Whitehead’s Trogon, the

stunning male at eye-level and at times too close to fit in the frame of our cameras, certainly matched it. Hair-

crested Drongo and a pair of Bornean Forktails were other birds of note seen along the trail. After a relaxed

lunch, we returned to the Timpohon Gate, where we obtained much better views of Golden-naped Barbet and

were entertained by Bornean Black-banded Squirrels taking titbits from the hands of tourists. Once the fog

rolled in, we elected to descend to lower altitudes, and made a stop at a nearby hotel to look for Pygmy White-

eyes. These were duly recorded, though treetop views left much to be desired. A migrant Grey-streaked

Flycatcher was also scoped briefly. Back at our hotel, we noticed movement in the nearby trees, which, on

further inspection, turned out to be more Pygmy White-eyes, giving much closer and better views than the

birds seen earlier.

Crimson-headed Partridge and Whitehead’s Trogon

Our first experience of lowland birds (and temperatures and humidity levels!) greeted us at Poring. Resisting

the temptation to linger at lower elevations, despite good levels of bird activity at dawn, we pressed on up the

gruellingly steep trail while the morning was still relatively cool in the hope of seeing some of the Poring

specialities that are difficult to find elsewhere. Getting good views of birds in the canopy was challenging, but a

fruiting tree brought a number of additions: Black-and-yellow Broadbill, Long-billed Spiderhunter, and a good

selection of bulbuls, including Yellow-bellied, Grey-bellied, Grey-cheeked, Streaked and Puff-backed. Higher up

we encountered a briefly seen Bornean Spiderhunter and a nest-building Purple-naped Spiderhunter. A Grey-

chested Jungle Flycatcher was seen by one or two of the group but frustratingly did not hang around, while

Moustached and Scaly-crowned Babblers were more obliging. A pair of White-necked Babblers put on a good

show further on up the trail, prompting one of the group to compare them to “munias on steroids”! Chestnut-

breasted Malkoha, close views of Red-bearded Bee-eater and a pair of Buff-necked Woodpeckers were other

highlights. On the way down a Chestnut-backed Scimitar Babbler scampered about the foliage overhead, a

Crested Jay played hide-and-seek with us, and we got views of the Bornean form of Gold-whiskered Barbet,

now considered a full species – Gold-faced Barbet – in the latest Clements checklist. The afternoon was spent at

a more sedate pace, admiring four Rafflesia keithii flowers in various stages of bloom and decay.

Another early morning start on the trails in search of Everett’s Thrush; we did manage to hear one calling this

time, but were frustratingly unable to locate it, with a male Orange-backed Woodpecker providing some

consolation. In mid-morning we moved up the mountain to the start of the summit trail, adding Pallas’s

Grasshopper Warbler and five Long-tailed Shrikes (a supposedly scarce species in northern Borneo) en-route.

We enjoyed great looks at endemic Pale-faced Bulbuls, and a couple of migrant male Blue-and-white

Flycatchers were appreciated around the parking lot. Over lunch we noticed a small number of swiftlets zipping

about beneath the low clouds. On closer inspection, these showed a distinctive green gloss on the upperparts,

thus revealing them to be the recently split endemic Bornean Swiftlet. As we prepared to ascend the summit

trail, the heavens opened. Nevertheless, most of us opted to press on up the steep and at times slippery trail,

and we were duly rewarded, not only by the rain easing off and finally stopping altogether, but by good views

of three much-wanted endemics. First, several parties of Mountain Black-eyes came to check us out, and then,

not too much higher up the trail, the distant song of the most range-restricted endemic of them all, Friendly

Bush Warbler. The bird duly came in, initially rather furtively, offering only brief glimpses, but eventually it lived

up to its name and sang on a fully exposed perch at close range, rendering binoculars an optional accessory.

Grateful that we had not had to trek too far up the trail for our main target, we spent some time scanning the

skies (clouds!) for swiftlets, which were conspicuously absent, before descending. Near the entrance to the trail

we heard and then saw our third target – a party of boisterous Mountain Wren Babblers – while a Bornean

Stubtail did its best to distract us on the opposite side! When we met up with the remainder of the party who

had opted to stay below, we found they had been well satisfied by seeing a party of Mountain Black-eyes and a

pair of Bornean Forktails.

Bornean Swiftlet Pale-faced Bulbul © Steve James

Our final morning gave us good views of some of the commoner species, including below eye level Golden-

naped Barbet, Blyth’s Shrike Babbler, Grey-chinned Minivet, Mountain Black-eyes and another male Blue-and-

white Flycatcher. We spent some time looking at the overflying Glossy Swiftlets, and in doing so fluked a single

Giant Swiftlet – a bird we had been disappointed to miss from the summit trail the previous day. It was a good

way to end our visit to the National Park, and with that, we headed eastwards to Sepilok. After checking into

our accommodation, we spent some time watching the swiftlets coming in to drink at the lake at our resort, and

were able to confidently identify Mossy-nest, Black-nest and Edible-nest Swiftlets, as well as enjoy Silver-

rumped Spinetails and Grey-rumped Treeswifts. We then headed to the Rainforest Discovery Centre, which

surely has one of the best-designed canopy walkways in Asia. Even before reaching the walkway, we were

entertained by a noisy party of Great Slaty Woodpeckers, and the walkway itself gave us perched views of two

Wallace’s Hawk Eagles, a fly-by Rhinoceros Hornbill, White-bellied Woodpecker, Fiery Minivet, another Grey-

streaked Flycatcher, a pair of Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, and as dusk fell, we were entertained by at least five

Red Giant Flying Squirrels chasing each other up, down and around the large trees beside the walkway.

At first light the following day, we were on the canopy walkway once more, this time in light rain. The Wallace’s

Hawk Eagles were again in residence, and there was a good variety of commoner lowland forest species. Three

Bornean Black Magpies moved furtively away from us as we entered the walkway. Little Green and Green

Imperial Pigeons flew past in small parties, while several Blue-crowned Hanging Parrots announced their

passage overhead by their shrill calls. We came across a noisy party of four Bushy-crested Hornbills, and a

fruiting tree near the Bristlehead Tower was regularly visited by Plain Sunbirds, Lesser Green Leafbirds, and a

bewildering array of juvenile bulbuls. A pair of Fiery Minivets courtship feeding added a vivid splash of colour to

the scene. Migrants were represented by single Dark-sided and Grey-streaked and a couple of Asian Brown

Flycatchers. We watched a Long-billed Spiderhunter bathing in the rain, and Yellow-eared Spiderhunter was

also seen. Great Slaty and White-bellied Woodpeckers were repeats from the previous day, but a Grey-and-buff

Woodpecker high in the Hawk Eagle nest tree was new. As we made our way back to the car park, we found

our first wader of the trip - an unexpected Common Sandpiper perched incongruously on top of a shed roof! We

made our way to Gomantong Caves via a short roadside stop to admire Bat Hawks, one of which was on the

wing when we arrived. On the walk through the forest to the caves we heard a distant Black-crowned Pitta,

while Scaly-crowned and Chestnut-winged Babblers foraged close at hand. A Wreathed Hornbill flew noisily

overhead, and at the entrance to the caves, we were entertained by a small troupe of Maroon Leaf Monkeys. A

‘Bornean’ Rufous-backed Kingfisher flashed passed, and a Rufous-bellied Eagle soared high overhead. The

caves themselves were an impressive spectacle, and we were able to pick out a few Edible-nest Swiftlet nests

high on the roof of the cave among the far more numerous Black-nest Swiftlets. There were a few Mossy-nest

Swiftlet nests but none seemed to be occupied, so it was fortunate that we had had good views at Sepilok. On

our return through the forest, the pitta was calling closer and more vigorously than previously, but just as it

seemed we were certain to see it, it stopped calling. Fortunately, Mark had just the right angle to see why – a

pair of Black-crowned Pittas sat on a low branch side by side had obviously just ‘found’ each other! We

marvelled at the intense colours of these stunning endemics as one of the birds hopped down onto the forest

floor, and then moments later, the other followed suit. We returned to the vehicle flushed with success at our

first Bornean pittas.

White-chested babbler, Rufous-backed Kingfisher © Steve James

Buffy Fish Owl and Brown Wood Owl © Steve James

We arrived at the banks of the mighty Kinabatangan River just as the heavens opened. After a sumptuous

lunch, the sky had cleared enough for our first boat trip in mid-afternoon. This proved to be a feast of

hornbills, with five species being added to the two seen earlier in the day, including 7 Black, 3 Wreathed and 3

White-crowned, with a supporting cast of raptors: two Jerdon’s Bazas, Wallace’s Hawk Eagle, Grey-headed and

Lesser Fish Eagles. Blue-eared and the distinctive Bornean race of Rufous-backed Kingfisher were well seen,

while White-chested Babblers foraged among riverside roots and Oriental Darters tried to be inconspicuous as

they dried out on exposed snags. On the journey back to the Camp in the fading light, Mark was alert enough

to see a Hooded Pitta flying across the main river. The weather remained clear, so after dinner we set out again

in search of night birds and mammals. Earlier, a Malay Civet and a family of Bearded Pigs had been seen

around the Camp. Buffy Fish Owls proved relatively easy to find, but there was a surprise in store as we

explored one of the tributaries; a pair of Large Frogmouths began to call animatedly. They could not be enticed

into view however, and when one bird was found by Dave walking a short way into the forest, it did not stay

long enough for the group to see it. Somewhat disconsolate, but hoping for another chance the following

evening, we returned to camp, where a Brown Wood Owl hunting next to the walkway was far more obliging.

Hooded Pitta and Large Frogmouth © Steve James

Storm’s Storks and Asian Pygmy Elephants © Steve James

The following morning we were back in the boats, making our way swiftly down the main river, stopping

momentarily to admire several Jerdon’s Bazas and Wallace’s Hawk Eagles and a flock of 11 Wrinkled Hornbills,

before nosing quietly up a tributary of the Kinabatangan. Blue-eared and ‘Bornean’ Rufous-backed Kingfishers

perched quietly on stilt-rooted riverside trees, and Malaysian Blue Flycatchers could be heard and occasionally

seen. Two Storm’s Storks lifted off from treetop roosts to begin the business of the day, and a Hooded Pitta

hunted for food along the bank, apparently unconcerned by our presence. A Moustached Hawk Cuckoo put in a

typically fleeting appearance as it dashed, accipiter-like, across the river. Chestnut-necklaced Partridges could

be heard occasionally, but the sound we were really hoping to hear – the call of Bornean Ground Cuckoo –

could not. As the temperatures soared, on the return journey upriver, so did increasing numbers of storks, with

at least 3 Lesser Adjutants and up to 14 Storm’s Storks joining raptors such as Lesser Fish Eagle in the

thermals. After lunch the rain once again set in, but this did not stop us from setting out on another boat trip.

Persistence paid off in the form of a White-fronted Falconet perched on a distant snag, and then a fine

immature male Helmeted Hornbill – much the rarest of the hornbills here - perched considerably closer. A

distantly calling Bornean Ground Cuckoo gave us hope of better things the next day. Proboscis Monkeys and

Sunda Silvered Langurs adorned the treetops in the setting sun as we made our way back with the skies now

having cleared. But the day was not over yet. After dinner, we headed back to the Large Frogmouth site, and

this time we were rewarded with walkaway views of a bird perched for as long as we wanted! A great end to

the day – Large Frogmouth is one of the hardest frogmouths to see in Borneo – leading to high fives all round!

The icing on the cake was provided by three Asian Pygmy Elephants feeding along the riverbank on the return

journey.

On our last morning on the river, we opted to try again for the Ground Cuckoo along the same tributary as

yesterday. Flocks of 30 Little Green Pigeons and the same number of Long-tailed Parakeets added colour to our

early morning, as did more Blue-eared Kingfishers. A pair of Ruddy Kingfishers remained obstinately out of

sight however, despite calling frequently. Nine Storm’s Storks reaffirmed the importance of this site as a global

stronghold for the species, and good views were obtained of a couple of Lesser Adjutants, as well as our daily

quota of Jerdon’s Bazas and Wallace’s Hawk Eagles. We had superb views of a group of five Asian Pygmy

Elephants feeding where we had seen the three the previous night. A satellite-tracking collar on the adult

female could be clearly seen. Six Bornean Brown Barbets (Sabah’s latest endemic species) were a welcome

sight, but again, the real focus was on finding the Ground Cuckoo. Eventually we tracked down two calling

birds, one either side of the main river, but both were either too distant or too shy to give any views, and

eventually it was time to leave. The long drive from the Kinabatangan to Borneo Rainforest Lodge (BRL) in

Danum Valley was relatively uneventful under overcast skies and in periodic light showers. One roadside stop

did produce a noisy group of six Dusky Broadbills. Our inaugural night drive from the Lodge yielded spotlit

views of Thomas’s and Black Flying Squirrels and Malay Civet, before we returned to our sumptuous

accommodation to dream of what awaited us in the morning.

Bornean Blue Flycatcher and Black-and-yellow Broadbill

Bristlehead had eluded us at Sepilok and the Kinabatangan, so was our main target on our first day at BRL.

Despite walking around the area where a group had been seen recently, none were located, but a good

selection of lowland birds was observed. Even before breakfast was over, we were treated to fantastic views of

Whiskered Treeswifts perched just beyond the dining area balcony, and, just a short distance into our walk, we

had great looks at a singing Rufous-chested Flycatcher, an unobtrusive but delightfully coloured inhabitant of

the understorey. More brightly coloured gems followed: two male Red-naped Trogons courting a female,

Banded and Black-and-yellow Broadbills, Checker-throated Woodpecker and a repeat showing of Rufous-backed

Kingfisher. Grey-headed, Yellow-bellied and Hairy-backed Bulbuls were added, as were a selection of babblers,

including Short-tailed, Moustached, Scaly-crowned and Rufous-crowned. Soon, the call of a Blue-headed Pitta

tempted us off-road and onto one of the trails. The bird, a dazzling male, eventually hopped across the trail,

but to our frustration, it had done so just out of sight of almost everyone, around a slight bend in the trail, and

it could not be persuaded to do a repeat performance. Two Bornean Blue Flycatchers, including a fine male,

were much more obliging, and Bornean Spiderhunter, Maroon-breasted Philentoma, Green Iora, Crested Jay

and Plain Pygmy Squirrel were other notable sightings before heading back for lunch. Sadly, this proved to be

our last birding activity of the day as the rain set in in earnest for the duration of the afternoon.

The next morning dawned bright and clear and we once again focused our efforts on locating Bristleheads. On a

drive along the access road to the entrance gate, we chanced upon a perched Oriental Honey Buzzard of the

resident torquatus race. Walking back along the road, we found Red-billed, Raffles’s and Chestnut-breasted

Malkohas, and a party of 10 Dusky Broadbills raised Bristlehead hopes briefly. A singing Black-throated Wren

Babbler presented a challenge as it flitted about in the very dingy light of the dense understorey, but eventually

reasonable views were obtained by most. Four Yellow-rumped Flowerpeckers were added to our list of

endemics, and Finsch’s Bulbul, 4 Dark-throated Orioles and Bronzed Drongos were added as we continued to

bird from the access road. Red-naped Trogon, Grey-streaked Flycatcher and Grey-and-buff Woodpecker were

also seen. We enjoyed a group of Maroon Leaf Monkeys in the trees near the Lodge, and further afield, this

sighting was eclipsed by a pair of Bornean Gibbons which we watched as, one after the other, they first sized

up and then launched themselves across the gap in the canopy from one side of the road to the other,

managing to be both spectacular and graceful at the same time! With no evidence of Bristleheads along the

road, we decided to hit the forest trail network again, and as we did so, almost immediately we flushed a

Rufous-tailed Shama off the ground, and were able to get scope views as it perched quietly beside the trail.

Then, after a quiet spell, as so often seems to happen in the Bornean rainforest, we were faced with difficult

choices as to which of several quality birds to look for first, as several Chestnut-necklaced Partridges and a

Blue-headed Pitta all began calling close by. The pitta was a priority for those who had missed the previous

day’s bird, and before long we all had excellent views as it hopped up onto a low branch. Meanwhile, the

partridges continued to call and were getting closer. As we waited for the birds to cross the trail, what appeared

to be an orange and cream feather boa scurried across the trail several times –a rarely-seen Malay Weasel, no

doubt even more intent on finding the partridges than we were! With some strategic manoeuvring, we

eventually succeeded in getting one of the partridges to cross the trail twice, the first time at pace, the second

in more leisurely fashion, giving us all great looks. Well-pleased with the morning’s haul, we made our way

back for an excellent buffet lunch at the Lodge. Knowing that rain was likely in the afternoon, we made our way

back up the access road after lunch suitably attired. A mixed species flock near the Lodge gave us good looks

at a splendid male Scarlet-rumped Trogon and several Brown Fulvettas, Chestnut-rumped and Chestnut-winged

Babblers and a pair of Rufous-winged Philentoma. We stopped to examine some violent movements in a giant

fruiting fig tree just as the heavens opened, and as we peered from under our dripping umbrellas, we could just

make out a maroon-coloured hairy forearm pulling branches – a magnificent male Bornean Orang-utan was

making his own umbrella to sit out the rain! Both he and we hunkered down till the skies brightened and the

rain eased up somewhat, and then we were rewarded by the sight of this iconic primate slowly emerging from

his shelter and feeding on figs. He was joined at various points by an astonishing number and variety of

hornbills - 6 Black, 3 Rhinoceros, 4 Bushy-crested, 4 Wreathed, and, best of all, a family party of 3 Helmeted

Hornbills, all joining in the feast. Even though the weather left something to be desired, the wildlife spectacle

was surely unbeatable!

Bornean Gibbon © Mark Eaton, and Helmeted Hornbill

The next morning we opted to try for some slope specialists and began the steep ascent of the Coffin Trail. A

singing Large-billed Blue Flycatcher was soon added and a Siberian Blue Robin was watched feeding on the

trail, which was otherwise fairly quiet. As we gained altitude we located a calling Blue-banded Pitta, but were

unable to entice it close enough to see, and decided against trying to cross the rain-swollen river to get closer.

On the way down, a Grey-chested Jungle Flycatcher gave excellent views – a relief for those who had missed

the brief sighting at Poring – and a noisy party of Horsfield’s Babblers crossed the trail. Babblers took centre

stage from then on, with first a Chestnut-backed Scimitar Babbler over our heads, then a small party of Rufous-

fronted Babblers. Better was to come, as a brilliant Bornean Ground Babbler gave prolonged views, then a

Black-capped Babbler appeared for those who had missed earlier birds, and finally a manic Striped Wren

Babbler belted out its monotonous song against all-comers. For once, the afternoon stayed sunny, so we were

back on the Bristlehead beat along the access road, with similar lack of success. Were we ever going to see

these mythical, must-see birds? We did at last manage to pin down one of the incessantly calling Moustached

Hawk Cuckoo, allowing close scope views, and the fig tree once again provided a feast of hornbills; 2 Black, 6

Rhinoceros, 2 Helmeted, 16 Bushy-crested and 2 Wreathed, though this time no Orang-utan. A pair of Ruby-

cheeked Sunbirds were added, and two more Bornean Blue Flycatchers were seen. After dinner, some of the

group decided to go on a night drive, and were almost immediately rewarded by prolonged views of the

distinctive endemic race of Barred Eagle Owl. The drive also produced much better views of Thomas’s Flying

Squirrel than on the first evening.

Bristlehead © Steve James and Bornean Orang-utan

Our last morning of the trip had arrived and we were still Bristlehead-less! More in desperation than hope we

drove out to the entrance gate once again, where we began birding in early morning mist. Two Short-toed

Coucals duetted in the forest, but access proved impossible, and unsurprisingly they would not be tempted into

the dense scrub bordering the road. Blue-crowned Hanging Parrots and Violet Cuckoos flew overhead, and we

added Ferruginous Babbler, Cream-vented Bulbul, Lesser Cuckooshrike and another Maroon-breasted

Philentoma in the murk. As the low clouds lifted, so did our spirits as we began to hear distinctive and much-

anticipated grunts and growls that could only come from one species - Bristleheads! At last, several birds

appeared as near-silhouettes against the rising sun, but then they flew across the road so that we were able to

watch the flock of seven birds in bright sunlight as they moved slowly along tree limbs. The birds stayed in view

for around half an hour, enabling us to fully appreciate the charismatic character and brilliant colours of this

most-wanted strawberry-headed Bornean icon. A final foray into the trails added a female Green Broadbill, 3

Erpornis and another Black-throated Wren Babbler in better light conditions. We also had close but fleeting

views of a pair of Lesser Mouse-Deer, before ending up at ‘the’ fig tree, where the male Bornean Orang-utan

was once again in residence, surrounded by the usual array of hornbills. What a way to end the trip, with

arguably the flagship bird and mammal of Borneo in the final hours! The trip back to Kota Kinabalu was

uneventful birdwise, and all too soon it was time to say our goodbyes, look forward to reminiscing about the

trip and planning the next one!

Bird of the Tour

1. Bristlehead

2. Large Frogmouth

3. Blue-headed Pitta and Helmeted Hornbill (tied)

4. Rhinoceros Hornbill and Crimson-headed Partridge (tied)

5. Whitehead’s Trogon

Bornean Treepie and Temminck’s Sunbird

Blyth’s Shrike Babbler and Wallace’s Hawk Eagle, © Steve James

Fiery Minivet © Steve James, and Red Giant Flying Squirrel

White-necked Babbler and Rafflesia keithii

Bornean Spiderhunter and Little Spiderhunter © Steve James

Bornean Whistling Thrush and Bornean Whistler © Steve James

Whitehead’s Trogon and Proboscis Monkey © Steve James

Bornean Black-banded Squirrel and Bornean Mountain Ground Squirrel

Storm’s Stork © Steve James

White-crowned Shama © Steve James and Whiskered Treeswift

Systematic Bird List

PELECANIFORMES: Anhingidae

Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster

CICONIIFORMES: Ardeidae

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

Eastern Great Egret Casmerodius modestus

Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia intermedia

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus

Striated Heron Butorides striata

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

CICONIIFORMES: Ciconiidae

Storm's Stork Ciconia stormi

Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus

FALCONIFORMES: Accipitridae

Jerdon's Baza Aviceda jerdoni

Oriental Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus torquatus

Bat Hawk Macheiramphus alcinus alcinus

Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus hypoleucos

Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus

Lesser Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga humilis

Grey-headed Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus

Mountain Serpent Eagle Spilornis kinabaluensis e

Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela

Crested Goshawk Tachyspiza trivirgatus

Rufous-bellied Eagle Lophotriorchis kienerii

Changeable Hawk Eagle Nisaetus limnaetus

Wallace's Hawk Eagle Nisaetus nanus

FALCONIFORMES: Falconidae

White-fronted Falconet Microhierax latifrons e

GALLIFORMES: Phasianidae

Great Argus Argusianus argus

heard only

Red-breasted Partridge Arborophila hyperythra e heard only

Chestnut-necklaced Partridge Arborophila charltonii graydoni

Crimson-headed Partridge Haematortyx sanguiniceps e

GRUIFORMES: Rallidae

White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus

CHARADRIIFORMES: Scolopacidae

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos

COLUMBIFORMES: Columbidae

Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis

Little Cuckoo Dove Macropygia ruficeps nana

Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica indica

Peaceful Dove Geopelia striata

Little Green Pigeon Treron olax

Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea

Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia

PSITTACIFORMES: Psittacidae

Long-tailed Parakeet Psittacula longicauda

Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot Loriculus galgulus

CUCULIFORMES: Cuculidae

Bock's Hawk Cuckoo Cuculus [sparverioides] bocki

heard only

Moustached Hawk Cuckoo Cuculus vagans

Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii

heard only

Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus

heard only

Little Bronze Cuckoo Chrysococcyx minutillus aheneus

heard only

Violet Cuckoo Chrysococcyx xanthorhynchus

Black-bellied Malkoha Phaenicophaeus diardi

Raffles's Malkoha Phaenicophaeus chlorophaeus

Red-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus javanicus

Chestnut-breasted Malkoha Phaenicophaeus curvirostris

Bornean Ground Cuckoo Carpococcyx radiatus e heard only

Short-toed Coucal Centropus rectunguis

heard only

Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis bubutus

STRIGIFORMES: Tytonidae

Oriental Bay Owl Phodilus badius badius

heard only

STRIGIFORMES: Strigidae

Mountain Scops Owl Otus spilocephalus luciae

Barred Eagle Owl Bubo sumatranus

Buffy Fish Owl Bubo ketupu

Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica vaga

CAPRIMULGIFORMES: Podargidae

Large Frogmouth Batrachostomus auritus

CAPRIMULGIFORMES: Caprimulgidae

Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus salvadorii

heard only

APODIFORMES: Apodidae

Giant Swiftlet Hydrochous gigas

Glossy Swiftlet Collocalia esculenta cyanoptila

Bornean Swiftlet Collocalia dodgei e

Mossy-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus salangana natunae

Black-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus maximus lowi

Edible-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus fuciphagus vestita

Silver-rumped Needletail Rhaphidura leucopygialis

Brown-backed Needletail Hirundapus giganteus

APODIFORMES: Hemiprocnidae

Grey-rumped Treeswift Hemiprocne longipennis harterti

Whiskered Treeswift Hemiprocne comata comata

TROGONIFORMES: Trogonidae

Red-naped Trogon Harpactes kasumba impavidus

Diard's Trogon Harpactes diardii diardii

heard only

Whitehead's Trogon Harpactes whiteheadi e

Scarlet-rumped Trogon Harpactes duvaucelii

CORACIIFORMES: Alcedinidae

Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting verreauxii

Rufous-backed Kingfisher Ceyx rufidorsa motleyi

Banded Kingfisher Lacedo pulchella melanops

heard only

Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis inominata

Ruddy Kingfisher Halcyon coromanda minor

heard only

Collared Kingfisher Todirhamphus chloris laubmannianus

Rufous-collared Kingfisher Actenoides concretus borneanus

heard only

CORACIIFORMES: Meropidae

Red-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis amictus

Blue-throated Bee-eater Merops viridis viridis

CORACIIFORMES: Coraciidae

Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis

CORACIIFORMES: Bucerotidae

Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris convexus

Black Hornbill Anthracoceros malayanus

Rhinoceros Hornbill Buceros rhinoceros borneoensis

Helmeted Hornbill Buceros vigil

Bushy-crested Hornbill Anorrhinus galeritus

White-crowned Hornbill Berenicornis comatus

Wrinkled Hornbill Aceros corrugatus

Wreathed Hornbill Rhyticeros undulatus

PICIFORMES: Capitonidae

Gold-whiskered Barbet Psilopogon chrysopogon chrysopsis

Red-throated Barbet Psilopogon mystacophanos

Mountain Barbet Psilopogon monticola e

Yellow-crowned Barbet Psilopogon henricii

heard only

Golden-naped Barbet Psilopogon pulcherrima e

Blue-eared Barbet Psilopogon australis duvaucelii

Bornean Barbet Psilopogon eximia e

Brown Barbet Calorhamphus fuliginosus e

PICIFORMES: Picidae

Rufous Piculet Sasia abnormis

heard only

White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis javensis

Banded Woodpecker Picus mineaceus malaccensis

heard only

Crimson-winged Woodpecker Picus puniceus observandus

Checker-throated Woodpecker Picus mentalis humii

Maroon Woodpecker Blythipicus rubiginosus

Orange-backed Woodpecker Reinwardtipicus validus xanthopygius

Buff-rumped Woodpecker Meiglyptes tristis grammithorax

heard only

Buff-necked Woodpecker Meiglyptes tukki tukki

Grey-and-buff Woodpecker Hemicircus concretus sordidus

Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus

PASSERIFORMES: Eurylaimidae

Dusky Broadbill Corydon sumatranus

Black-and-red Broadbill Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos

heard only

Banded Broadbill Eurylaimus javanicus

Black-and-yellow Broadbill Eurylaimus ochromalus

Green Broadbill Calyptomena viridis

PASSERIFORMES: Pittidae

Bornean Banded Pitta Hydrornis schwaneri e heard only

Blue-headed Pitta Hydrornis baudii e

Hooded Pitta Erythropitta sordida mulleri

Blue-banded Pitta Erythropitta arquata e heard only

Black-crowned Pitta Erythropitta ussheri e

PASSERIFORMES: Hirundinidae

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica gutturalis

Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica

PASSERIFORMES: Motacillidae

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea cinerea

Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus

PASSERIFORMES: Campephagidae

Sunda Cuckooshrike Coracina larvata normani

Lesser Cuckooshrike Coracina fimbriata schierbrandii

Fiery Minivet Pericrocotus igneus igneus

Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus insulanus

Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris cinereigula

Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus intermedius

PASSERIFORMES: Pycnonotidae

Black-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus atriceps atriceps

Bornean Bulbul Pycnonotus montis e

Grey-bellied Bulbul Pycnonotus cyaniventris

Puff-backed Bulbul Pycnonotus eutilotus

Pale-faced Bulbul Pycnonotus [flavescens] leucops e

Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier gourdini

Olive-winged Bulbul Pycnonotus plumosus plumosus

Cream-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus simplex perplexus

Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus brunneus brunneus

Spectacled Bulbul Pycnonotus erythropthalmos

Finsch's Bulbul Alophoixus finschii

Ochraceous Bulbul Alophoixus ochraceus ruficrissus

Grey-cheeked Bulbul Alophoixus bres gutturalis

Yellow-bellied Bulbul Alophoixus phaeocephalus

Hairy-backed Bulbul Tricholestes criniger

Buff-vented Bulbul Iole olivacea charlottae

Streaked Bulbul Ixos malaccensis

Cinereous Bulbul Hemixos cinereus connectens

PASSERIFORMES: Chloropseidae

Lesser Green Leafbird Chloropsis cyanopogon cyanopogon

Bornean Leafbird Chloropsis kinabaluensis e

PASSERIFORMES: Aegithinidae

Green Iora Aegithina viridissima

PASSERIFORMES: Turdidae

Bornean Whistling Thrush Myophonus borneensis e

Everett's Thrush Zoothera everetti e heard only

Eye-browed Thrush Turdus obscurus

Fruit-hunter Chlamydochaera jefferyi e heard only

PASSERIFORMES: Cisticolidae

Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris latrunculus

PASSERIFORMES: Sylviidae

Bornean Stubtail Urosphena whiteheadi e

Sunda Bush Warbler Horornis vulcania oreophila

Friendly Bush Warbler Locustella accentor e

Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler Locustella certhiola

Mountain Tailorbird Phyllergates cuculatus cinereicollis

Dark-necked Tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis atrogularis

Rufous-tailed Tailorbird Orthotomus sericeus sericeus

Ashy Tailorbird Orthotomus ruficeps borneoensis

Arctic Warbler Phylloscopus borealis

Mountain Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus trivirgatus kinabaluensis

Yellow-breasted Warbler Seicercus montis floris

Yellow-bellied Warbler Abroscopus superciliaris schwaneri

Striated Grassbird Megalurus palustris

PASSERIFORMES: Muscicapidae

Grey-chested Jungle Flycatcher Rhinomyias umbratilis

Eye-browed Jungle Flycatcher Rhinomyias gularis e

Grey-streaked Flycatcher Muscicapa griseisticta

Dark-sided Flycatcher Muscicapa sibirica

Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica dauurica

Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra sumatrana

Rufous-chested Flycatcher Ficedula dumetoria

Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni

Blue-and-white Flycatcher Cyanoptila cyanomelana

Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina

Indigo Flycatcher Eumyias indigo

Hill Blue Flycatcher Cyornis banyumas coeruleatus

Large-billed Blue Flycatcher Cyornis caerulatus caerulatus

Malaysian Blue Flycatcher Cyornis turcosus

Bornean Blue Flycatcher Cyornis superbus e

Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis

Oriental Magpie Robin Copsychus saularis adamsi

White-crowned Shama Copsychus stricklandii e

Rufous-tailed Shama Trichixos pyrropyga

Bornean Forktail Enicurus borneensis

White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx montana erythrogyna

Siberian Blue Robin Luscinia cyane

PASSERIFORMES: Rhipiduridae

White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis kinabalu

Pied Fantail Rhipidura javanica

PASSERIFORMES: Monarchidae

Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea prophata

Asian Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi borneensis

PASSERIFORMES: Pachycephalidae

Bornean Whistler Pachycephala hypoxantha e

PASSERIFORMES: Timaliidae

Sunda Laughingthrush Garrulax palliatus

Bare-headed Laughingthrush Melanocichla calvus e

Rufous-hooded Laughingthrush Rhinocichla treacheri treacheri e

White-chested Babbler Trichastoma rostratum macropterum

Ferruginous Babbler Trichastoma bicolor

Horsfield's Babbler Malacocincla sepiarium harterti

Short-tailed Babbler Malacocincla malaccensis poliogenys

Temminck's Babbler Pellorneum pyrrogenys canicapillus

Black-capped Babbler Pellorneum capistratum morrelli

Moustached Babbler Malacopteron magnirostre cinereocapilla

Sooty-capped Babbler Malacopteron affine phoeniceum

Scaly-crowned Babbler Malacopteron cinereum cinereum

Rufous-crowned Babbler Malacopteron magnum saba

Chestnut-backed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus montanus bornensis

Bornean Ground Babbler Ptilocichla leucogrammica e

Striped Wren Babbler Kenopia striata

Black-throated Wren Babbler Napothera atrigularis e

Mountain Wren Babbler Napothera crassa e

Rufous-fronted Babbler Stachyridopsis rufifrons sarawacensis

Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps borneensis

White-necked Babbler Stachyris leucotis obscurata

Chestnut-rumped Babbler Stachyris maculata maculata

Chestnut-winged Babbler Stachyris erythroptera bicolor

Bold-striped Tit Babbler Macronous bornensis

Fluffy-backed Tit Babbler Macronous ptilosus reclusus

Brown Fulvetta Alcippe brunneicauda

Chestnut-crested Yuhina Yuhina everetti e

PASSERIFORMES: Acanthizidae

Golden-bellied Gerygone Gerygone sulphurea sulphurea

PASSERIFORMES: Sittidae

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis corallipes

PASSERIFORMES: Nectariniidae

Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Chalcoparia singalensis

Plain Sunbird Anthreptes simplex

Brown-throated Sunbird Anthreptes malacensis

Olive-backed Sunbird Cinnyris jugularis

Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja

Temminck's Sunbird Aethopyga temminckii

Purple-naped Spiderhunter Hypogramma hypogrammicum

Long-billed Spiderhunter Arachnothera robusta

Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra

Yellow-eared Spiderhunter Arachnothera chrysogenys

Bornean Spiderhunter Arachnothera everetti e

Whitehead's Spiderhunter Arachnothera juliae e

PASSERIFORMES: Dicaeidae

Yellow-breasted Flowerpecker Prionochilus maculatus maculatus

Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker Prionochilus xanthopygius e

Orange-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum trigonostigma dayakanum

Black-sided Flowerpecker Dicaeum monticolum e

Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum nigrimentum

PASSERIFORMES: Zosteropidae

Black-capped White-eye Zosterops atricapillus

Pygmy White-eye Oculocincta squamifrons e

Mountain Black-eye Chlorocharis emiliae e

PASSERIFORMES: Oriolidae

Dark-throated Oriole Oriolus xanthonotus consobrinus

Black-and-crimson Oriole Oriolus cruentus vulneratus

PASSERIFORMES: Irenidae

Asian Fairy Bluebird Irena puella crinigera

PASSERIFORMES: Laniidae

Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus

Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach bentet

PASSERIFORMES: Prionopidae

Rufous-winged Philentoma Philentoma pyrhopterum

Maroon-breasted Philentoma Philentoma velatum

PASSERIFORMES: Dicruridae

Sunda [Ashy] Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus stigmatops

Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus malayensis

Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus borneensis

Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus brachyphorus

PASSERIFORMES: Artamidae

White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorynchus

PASSERIFORMES: Pityriaseidae

Bristlehead Pityriasis gymnocephala e

PASSERIFORMES: Corvidae

Crested Jay Platylophus galericulatus coronatus

Bornean Black Magpie Platysmurus aterrimus e

Bornean Green Magpie Cissa jefferyi

Bornean Treepie Dendrocitta cinerascens e

Slender-billed Crow Corvus enca compilator

PASSERIFORMES: Sturnidae

Asian Glossy Starling Aplonis panayensis

Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa

Javan Myna Acridotheres javanicus i

PASSERIFORMES: Estrildidae

Dusky Munia Lonchura fuscans e

Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata cabanisi

Black-headed Munia Lonchura atricapilla jagori

PASSERIFORMES: Passeridae

Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus malaccensis

PASSERIFORMES: Vireonidae

Blyth's Shrike Babbler Pteruthius aeralatus robinsoni

Erpornis Erpornis zantholeuca

Mammals

Mountain Treeshrew Tupaia montana baluensis e

Maroon Leaf Monkey Presbytis rubicunda e

Sunda Silvered Leaf Monkey Presbytis cristata

Proboscis Monkey Nasalis larvatus e

Long-tailed Macaque Macaca fascicularis

Sunda Pig-tailed Macaque Macca nemestrina

Bornean Gibbon Hylobates muelleri e

Bornean Orang-utan Pongo pygmaeus e

Prevost's Squirrel Callosciurus prevostii pluto

Plantain Squirrel Callosciurus notatus

Bornean Black-banded Squirrel Callosciurus orestes e

Low's Squirrel Sundasciurus lowii

Jentink's Squirrel Sundasciurus jentinki e

Bornean Mountain Ground Squirrel Dremomys everetti e

Plain Pygmy Squirrel Exilisciurus exilis e

Black Flying Squirrel Aeromys tephromelas

Thomas's Flying Squirrel Aeromys thomasi e

Red Giant Flying Squirrel Petaurista petaurista

Malay Weasel Mustela nudipes

Malay Civet Viverra tangalunga

Asian [Pygmy] Elephant Elephas maximus borneensis e

Bearded Pig Sus barbatus

Lesser Mouse-Deer Tragulus kanchil

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