Rocky Mountain National Park Dayhiker's Guide: A Scenic Guide to 33 Favorite Hikes Including Longs
Transcript of Rocky Mountain National Park Dayhiker's Guide: A Scenic Guide to 33 Favorite Hikes Including Longs
RockyMountainNationalParkDayhiker'sGuide
ASCENICGUIDETO33FAVORITEHIKESINCLUDINGLONGSPEAK
JEROMEMALITZ
JOHNSONBOOKSBoulder
title:RockyMountainNationalParkDayhiker'sGuide:AScenicGuideto33Favorite
HikesIncludingLongsPeakauthor: Malitz,Jerome.
publisher: JohnsonBooksisbn10|asin: 1555661106printisbn13: 9781555661106ebookisbn13: 9780585019666
language: English
subject
Hiking--Colorado--RockyMountainNationalPark--Guidebooks,RockyMountainNationalPark(Colo.)--Guidebooks.
publicationdate: 1993lcc: GV199.42.R62M351993ebddc: 796.51
subject:
Hiking--Colorado--RockyMountainNationalPark--Guidebooks,RockyMountainNationalPark(Colo.)--Guidebooks.
Copyright1993byJeromeMalitz.
Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmitted,inanyformorbyanymeans,electronic,mechanical,photocopying,orotherwise,withoutpriorwrittenpermissionofthepublisher.
LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData
Malitz,Jerome,1936-RockyMountainNationalParkdayhiker'sguide:ascenicguideto33favoritehikesincludingLongsPeak/JeromeMalitz.1sted.p. cm.ISBN1-55566-110-61.HikingRockyMountainNationalPark(Colo.)Guidebooks.2.RockyMountainNationalParks(Colo.)Guidebooks.I.Title.GV199.42.R62M35 1993
917.88'69dc20 92-42538
CIP
FrontCoverPhotograph:TheLoch,byJeromeMalitzBackCoverPhotograph:TrailtoFinchLake,byJeromeMalitzDesignandTypesetting:ShadowCanyonGraphics,Evergreen,ColoradoMaps:TrailsIllustrated,P.O.Box3610,Evergreen,Colorado80439(800)962-1643ThemapsincludedinthisguidearefromTrailsIllustrated'sRockyMountainNationalParkmap,whichisforsaleatparkvisitorcenters.Itishighlyrecommendedthatthecompletemapbecarriedforallhikesinthisguide.Hikenumbersappearonthemapdenotingthedestinationorgeneralareaofthethirty-threehikesdescribedintheguide.
FirstEdition
23456789
PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmericabyJohnsonPrintingCompany1880South57thCourtBoulder,Colorado80301
WARNING:Hikinginmountainousterraincanbeahigh-riskactivity.Thisguidebookisnotasubstituteforyourexperienceandcommonsense.Theusersofthisguidebookassumefullresponsibilityfortheirownsafety.Weather,terrainconditions,andindividualabilitiesmustbeconsideredbeforeundertakinganyofthehikesinthisguide.
ContentsIntroduction 4
Preparations 5
SOUTHEASTTrailsNearLongsPeak 19
1FinchLake 20
2CalypsoCascadesandOuzelFalls 23
3OuzelLake 28
4EstesCone 31
5ChasmLake 34
6LongsPeak 37
7TwinSistersMountain 43
NORTHEASTTrailsFromGlacierGorgeJunction 47
8AlbertaFalls 48
9MillsLake 51
10BlackLake 56
11TheLoch 58
12TimberlineFalls,LakeofGlass,SkyPond 61
NORTHEASTTrailsFromBearLake 67
13BearLake,DreamLake,EmeraldLake 68
14LakeHaiyaha 72
15OdessaLake 75
16HallettPeak 78
17BierstadtLake 82
NORTHEASTOtherThanGlacierGorgeorBearLake 85
18CubLake 86
19FernFallsandFernLake 90
20GemLake 94
21YpsilonLake 97
22DeerMountain 100
23OldUteTrailTrailRidgeRoadtoBeaverMeadow 102
24Chapin,Chiquita,andYpsilonMountains 105
NORTHWESTTrailsNearPoudreLake 109
25Shorttundrahikes 110
26OldUteTrailTrailRidgeRoadtoPoudreLake 112
27TheCrater 116
28ColoradoRiverTrailtoLuluCityandLittleYellowstone
118
29TimberLake 123
SOUTHWESTTrailsNearGrandLake 127
30ColumbineBay 128
31ShadowMountain 132
32AdamsFalls 135
33OnahuTonahutuGreenMountainTrailLoop 138
Bibliography 141
Index 142
AcknowledgementsMythankstomywifeSuzy,whoaccompaniedmeonnearlyallofthehikesdescribed,kindlingmyenthusiasmorcounselingpatienceasthesituationrequired.Shealsohelpedwiththeeditingandwordprocessing.Someofherphotosappearonpages95and131.
AndtomylongtimefriendandcolleagueRichardHolley,whojoinedmeonsomeofthelongerhikes,andcontributedseveralphotographstotheproject(seepages40and41).Dickandhisstrawsombrerogivescaletomanyofthescenespictured.
AndtothefinefolksatTrailsIllustratedwhosemapoftheparkisanindespensiblecompanioninanyhiker'spack.
Andtothemanyparkrangerswhosopatiently,unselfishly,andcheerfullysharedtheirknowledgeandexperiencewithme.
Andtothoseparkpersonnelwhoreadthemanuscriptandofferedmanyinvaluablesuggestionsandcorrections.
Toalltheseandmanymore,mygratitudeandthanks.
AspenmidwaytolakefromtheBierstadtLaketrailhead
PrefaceRockyMountainNationalParkisoneofourgreatestscenictreasures.Withinitsboundaryaresomeofthemostmagnificentpeaks,alpinelakes,andhigh-countryvalleystobefoundanywhereonthecontinent.Soitisnotsurprisingthatmillionsofpeoplecometotheparkeachyear.Andthereisnobetterwaytoenjoythescenerythanonfoot,strollingthroughameadowawashwithwildflowers,orwalkingacrossthesun-drenchedalpinetundra,orhikingthroughsomeshadyforestuptotimberlineandthenontosomegrandsummitwithaviewoverthousandsofsquaremiles.
Inwordsandphotographs,thisbookdescribessomeofthebestday-hikesinRockyMountainNationalPark,emphasizingnotonlythedestinationofthehike,buttheremarkablefeaturesyouseealongtheway.
ExceptforthehiketoLongsPeak,thehikesdescribedhererequirelessthan4,000feetofelevationgainandatotalround-tripdistanceofnomorethan10miles.Allclimatezonesandterraintypesintheparkcanbeexperiencedwithintheselimits.
Thebookbeginswithafewwordsaboutthegeology,flora,fauna,andhistoryoftheregion.Thetreatmentisbrief,andisintendedtoenticethereaderintofurtherpursuingthesefascinatingtopicsapursuitguaranteedtoincreasethepleasureofvisitingthepark.
Thereisageneraldescriptionoftheclimateandsomesuggestionsonwhattowearandwhattocarry.Althoughthereareveryfewhazardsassociatedwithhikingthesetrails,somefreeadviceisofferedonhowtoavoidthem.
Themajorityofthebookisdevotedtotraildescriptionsanextendedinvitationtohikeintosomeofthemostmagnificentterrainonthe
planet.Wehopethatthereaderwillacceptthisinvitation,andwillfindthisbookhelpfulindecidingwhichtrailstotravel.
Happyhiking.
DreamLake,HallettPeak(left)andFlattopMountain
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IntroductionAgrandtrainofnationalparksridesthecrestoftheRockiesfromCanadathroughtheUnitedStates:Jasper,Banff,Waterton,Glacier,Yellowstone,GrandTeton,andRockyMountainNationalParks.ThelastisColorado'scontributionandisthefocusofthisguide.RockyMountainNationalParkembracesapartoftheRockiesthatisbothmagnificentandhospitableandoffersanextraordinaryvarietyofhikingtrails.Thereareflat-landstrollsacrossflower-studdedvalleys,gentleclimbstoglaciersandalpinelakes,andsummitassaultstochallengethemostexperiencedmountaineer.
Fromvalleyfloortohighestsummit,theparkencompassesadifferenceinelevationof6,000feet.Eachgainof1,000feetbringsa3°Fdecreaseintemperatureaclimatechangeroughlyequivalenttothatexperiencedintraveling600milesnorthward.Theparkspansthreeclimatezones:montane(7,000to9,500feet),subalpine(9,500to11,000feet),andalpine(above11,000feet).Annualprecipitationvarieswithaltitude,asthemountainstrapthecloudsandwringmoisturefromthem:lessthan20inchesatthelowestelevation,towellover30atthehighestwithmoreonthewesternslopethanontheeastern.Themountainstunnelwindandfunnelwater;theycourtthesunontheirsouthwesternslopes,andoffermoreshadeonthenortheast.Allofthisproducesarichvarietyofmicroclimates,whichfostersawondrousdiversityofplantandanimalcommunities.
PlantsandAnimals
Theplantsrangefromthebizarretothebeautifulfromtheprimitiveredalgaegrowingonthesurfaceofglacialice,totheadvancedbutleaflesscoralrootorchidgrowinginsymbiosiswiththepines.Everyelevationboastsitsbotanicalgardens,andeventhehightundrais
carpetedwithflowersduringmostofthesummer.
Woodyplantsarewellrepresentedinthepark.Conifersareparticularlyabundant,andincludethestatelyponderosapine,thelodgepolepine,andthepicturesquelimberpinethatisfoundinthemostexposedreachesofthesubalpinezone.Douglasfiriscommon,andthetruefirsarerepresentedbythewhitefirandthesubalpinefirthelatter'supperrangedefiningtimberline,wherefiercewindsandheavysnowstwistandshearthemintoground-huggingshrubs.
Deciduoustreesandshrubscontributetheirownspecialbeautytothepark,particularlyinareasbelow9,500feet.Magnificentwillowsand
Coloradobluecolumbine
Gaillardia
Parryprimrose
Whitemarshmarigold
Groundsel
Cowparsnip
Mosscampion
Alpinedaisy
Northernpaintbrush
Horsemint
Wildrose
Scarletpaintbrush,pearlyeverlasting,wallflower,andothers
cottonwoodsimpartanestatelikequalitytothevalleysandstreamsides.Mountainash,likeitsEuropeanrelativethatissoadmiredinourgardens,hascloudsofwhiteflowersinthespring,andscarletberriesandfoliageinthefall.Mountainmapleandredriverbirchaugmenttheautumncolor,whilered-twiggeddogwoodsandseveralspeciesofshrubbywillowswithcopperyyellowtwigsenliventhewinterlandscape.
Thegreatcolorshowisstagedbythequakingaspen.Althoughacommonspecies,aspensgrowtouncommonsplendorinthispartofthecountry.StandsareMidas-touchedwithbrilliant,shimmeringgoldenyellowbymid-Septemberthecolorsetoffbytheblue-greenconifersintheircompany,thepurple-graymountains,anddeepblueskies.'HighCountryGold'theycallit,andgoldfeverdrawsvisitorsfromaroundtheworldtoseethespectacle.
Andthefaunafortheflora?Eventhecasualbirdwatcherislikelytobejoyfullyoverwhelmedbytheabundanceanddiversityofthepark'sfeatheredfinery.Fromgreatblueherontotinypinesiskin,frommajesticgoldeneagletoirrepressiblemountainchickadee,theyanimatethelandscapeinnumberandvariety.Ducksofadozendifferentspeciesarecommon,andoftenboldenoughtocomeashoretopanhandle.Clark'snutcracker,thegrayjay,andthemagnificentSteller'sjayareevenbolderandsoplentifulthattheycanbedelightfullypeskyatlunchtime.Assortedsparrows,warblers,wrens,andjuncosvieforattention;whiledaffydippers,madcaphummers,andhard-headedhammersareabitmorereserved.
Noristherealackofmammals.Coyote,fox,deer,andelkaremostlikelytobeobservednearsunsetinthevalleysatloweraltitudes.Bighornsheepcanappearatanytimeoftheday,particularlyathigherelevations.Makingtheirhomeinthehighestandmostdesolateregionsaretwooftheparksmostamusingcreaturesthepikaandthegolden-belliedmarmot.Thefirstisaneight-inchfreneticbundleoffur
withastubofatail,bigears,bigeyes,andabunnylikeappeal.Morecommon,orlessfurtive,isthemarmottwo-feetlong,builtlikealittlebear,short-tailedandstubb-eared.Insomelocations,suchastheshoreofChasmLake,themarmotisbrazenenoughtocrashanypicnicparty,makingahilariousnuisanceofitself.
Whereverthereisastreamatlowerelevations,youcanfindbeaverdamsandlodges,althoughthefurryengineersthemselvesareseldomseen.Andofcoursetherearechipmunksandsquirrelsscurryingabout,tryingtomindyourbusinessmorethantheirs.Bearsandmountainlionsmaketheirhomeinthepark,buttheyarefewinnumberandrarelyseen.Fewwillbedisappointedtolearnthattherearenopoisonoussnakes.
GeologicOrigins
Itisnotonlytheplantsandanimalsthatlurevisitorstothepark,butalsothespectacularbeautyofthelandscapeitself,asmagnificentapieceofalpinesceneryasthisplanethastooffer.Theparkhasbeenageologicallaboratorysincethebeginningofthecontinent,andinthestanding-upcountryoftheRockies,whereerosionhastime-slicedthroughcrosssectionsofitshistory,geologistscanreadtheevolutionofthesemountains,tracingtheirancientgranitesbacksome2billionyearsagowhenshallowseascoveredtheregion.
Theup-and-downbattletoraisetheRockiesbegansome300millionyearsagowhenforcesthatbuildmountainswerefirstpittedagainstthosethattearthemdown.Thefirstgreatupliftingpushedthelandsome2,000feetabovethesurroundingseas.Thegeologicalevolutionwasaccompaniedbyamomentousbiologicalonethefirstamphibiansoftheregioncrawledontotheland.Butthentheforcesopposingtheriseheldswayerosionreducedthemountainstohills,andtheshallowseasoncemoreencroachedovermuchoftheregion.
Then,190millionyearsago,thebuildingforcespushedtheseasasideandinitiatedanotherupheavel.ThistimetheriseofmountainswasaccompaniedbytheascendancyofgiantdinosaursBrontosaurus,Allosaurus,andStegasaurushuntedandgrazedinthesubtropicalvalleys.Theerosiveforcescountered,andagaintheterrainwasleveled.Seasreturnedsome100millionyearsago,imposingtheirhegemonyovermostofthelandforthenext30millionyears.
Anotherroundofbuildingandlevelingbeganbetween70and54millionyearsagoamountainmassrosethreeorfourthousandfeetabovetheplain.Thistimethephenomenawaswitnessedbynew-fangled,furrycreaturestheageofmammalshadbegun.Ofcourse,theforcesoferosionassaultedthosefledglingmountainsandreducedthemtomerehillsacoupleofhundredfeethigh.Butthistimethe
seasdidnotreturn.
Thefinalbattleswerejoinedsome18millionyearsago,whenthemysteriousupliftingforceswereabettedbyoccasionalvolcanicactivityintheregion;and7to5millionyearsago,whenacceleratedupwardmovementpushedthehighlandsevenhigher.
Themechanismwhichcausedthesesuccessiveupheavalsisatthemomentamysteryoneofthemorevexingproblemsofcontemporarygeology.TheRockiesareanexampleofablockrange,astretchofmountainsborderedbyapairofparallelfaults.Theobviousconjecture,thatduringtheupheavalsthefaultsmovedclosertogether,extrudingtheearthbetweenthem,iscontradictedbyevidenceofawideninggapduringthesetimes,andnoothertheorypresentsaconvincingsolution
tothepuzzle.Butthelanddidrise,and5millionyearsagothemasswastherewaitingtobeabraded,cleaved,andquarried.
Asrock-splittingice,rushingwater,andwind-drivensandrakedandclawedattheland,anotherforceamostpowerfulforcewassetinmotion:thefirstgreatglaciersoftheiceageformedsome2millionyearsago,andthesegiantchiselsoficesettoworksculptingmountainsandcarvingcanyons.
Howdoglaciersshapetheterrain?Imaginea20-milelong,2,000-footthickmassoficeininexorablecold-flowmovingdownamountainside.Suchamasswilltransportbouldersthesizeofahouseformiles;willgrindrockagainstrock,streamliningthemorabradingthemtonothing;willdepositmilesofrubblealongtheirsidesandleadingedge;and,whentheybuckleuponthemselves,willexcavatebasinsoutofsolidstone.Throughtheseactions,theglacierscreatedalpinelakes,deepenedandwidenedvalleys,laiddownmoraines,andquarriedthesidesofmountains.
Thegreatriversoficecameinwavesgrowing,flowing,usurpingmoreandmoreland,untilatemporarywarmingoftheclimatestoppedtheiradvance,paredtheirmass,andforcedtheirretreat.Maybetherewerefoursuchwaves,maybethereweremore,butthegreatestglaciationsseemtohaveoccurredbetween2,000,000and600,000yearsago,andbetween27,000and12,000yearsago.
TherearestillglaciersintheparkAndrews,Rowe,Sprague,Taylor,Tyndall,andothersmeresuggestionsoftheirgreatpredecessors.Thesepretendersarebutafewhundredyearsold,andallareunder250feetthick.Still,theyprovidefascinatingdestinationsforhikers,andgiveussomesmallhintoftheforcestheirpredecessorsbroughtupontheland.
TherearefewplacesthatcanmatchRockyMountainNationalParkinitsrichandvariedgeologichistory.Almosteverywhereonecansee
abundantevidenceoftheprimalforceswhichshapedthisspectacularterrain.Thereareseveralfinebooksontheflora,fauna,history,andgeologyoftheparkmanyareavailableatthevisitorcentersandvariousshopsintheparkaswellasinbookstores.Thebibliographylistssomeofthese.
ABitofHistory
OnJanuary26,1915,PresidentWoodrowWilsonsignedintolawthebillthatexpandedthenationalparksystemtoincludeatenthmemberRockyMountainNationalPark.Soendeddecadesofstrugglebetweenthosewhowantedtheregionsetasideinthenameofconservationandpublicrecreation,andthosewhowantedtokeepitopentodevelopment
NearingBeaverMeadows
EnjoyingtheviewfromanoutcroppingalongTundraTrail
andcommercialenterprise.PresidingovertheceremonywasthemanmanyconsidertobethefatheroftheparkEnosMills.
Noonehadfoughtsohardorsolongforthecreationoftheparkforadecadehehadbeenamountainguide,writer,lecturer,andlobbyist.Hehaddreamsofapark1,000squaremilesinextent,stretchingfromtheWyomingBordertoPikesPeak,buthadtosettlefor352.5squaremiles,anareaapproximatelyaninththesizeofYellowstone.Nowthattheparkattractssome3millionvisitorsayear,notmuchlessthanYellowstone,thewisdomofhisoriginalplanseemsmoreandmoreapparent.
Ofcourse,thefoundingoftheparkwasprecededbyalengthyhistoryofinterestandactivityinthesurroundingarea.ThereissomeevidencethatpeoplemigratedfromAlaskaintothisregion7,500yearsagosomesay11,000yearsago.SeveralIndiantribesUte,Shoshone,Apache,Comanche,Kiowa,Arapaho,andCheyennetrappedandtraded,huntedandmadewarhereforatleast400yearsmaybeathousandyearsaccordingtoUtelegend.TheOldUteTrailthatcrossesTrailRidgeRoadandtheContinentalDividetestifiestotheirfamiliaritywiththearea.Projectilepointsandotherstonetoolshavebeenfoundthroughoutthepark.
IndiantalestellofeaglehuntsonthetopofLongsPeakwellbeforeits'discovery'byMajorStephenLongin1820.ThemajorwasoneoftheleadersoftheambitiousYellowstoneExpeditionthatwasmountedtogatherinformationandestablishAmericanhegemonyintheregion,andheearnedhisnamesakemountainbynevergettingclosertoitthan40miles.In1868,MajorJohnWesleyPowell,theone-armedexplorer,adventurer,andCivilWarhero,ledanexpeditiontothesummit.
Lessloftygoalsluredotherswest.TheCaliforniaGoldRushwasunderwayby1849,andadecadelaterthefeverstruckColorado.Joel
Esteswasbittenearlybythegoldbugandtriedhisluckonthewestcoast.Aftersomesuccessandabitofwandering,heandhisfamilymovedtoColoradoin1859.In1860hefoundhiswaytothatmagnificentvalleywenowcallEstesParkwherehesettled,raisedcattle,anddidsomefarmingandabitofhunting.Unabletomakeagoofit,hesoldoutandleftforNewMexicoin1866.
Inthemid-1870's,anEnglishmanbythenameofWindhamThomasWyndam-Quin,FourthEarlofDunraven,ViscontofMountEarlandAdare,laidclaimtoEstesParkandlandtothenorthtotaling15,000acres.Hisdeclaredaimwastoestablishaprivatehuntingpreserveprimarilytoprotectthehabitatfromthosefewwhovisitedtheparkeachseason;lateritwasclearthathehadother,morecommercial,interestsinmind.Therewasenoughpublicresistancetohisschemesandschemingwaystocausehimtodrophisclaims.
In1903FreelanO.StanleymovedtoEstesParkfromMassachusetts,perhapsforreasonsofhealththedoctorshadgivenhimoneyeartolive.Buthetook37more,anddiedin1940attheageof91,provingagainthatnothingisbetterforhealththanRockyMountainair.ThiswasthesameStanleywhoinventedtheStanleySteamerandtheStanleyDryPlateforphotographyamanofmeans,foresight,andbusinesssavvy.HeboughtlandinEstesParkandbuiltthegrandhotelwhichstillstandsandbearshisname.UnlikeLordDunraven,Stanleyhadadeepinterestinpreservingtheregionforpublicuse,aninterestwhichhesharedwithhisgoodfriendEnosMills.WhileStanleylocallypromotedtheideaofaprotectedregion,Millscontinuedhiscampaignforaparkthroughwritingsandlobbyingefforts.Sixyearsafterthebuildingofthehotel,RockyMountainNationalParkbecameareality.Buteventhesetwo,withalltheirforesight,couldnothaveimaginedhowquicklythepark'spopularitywouldrise.
In1916therewere51,000visitors;1920saw241,000.In1932,TrailRidgeRoadopenedfortravelacrosstheContinentalDivide,replacingtheFallRiverRoadwhichhadbeeninplacebeforethefoundingofthepark.Thatyear292,000visitorscamein83,000automobiles,inspiteoftheGreatDepression.By1938,thenumberhadrisento660,000visitorsin200,000cars.Thencamethegreatwar,andthemid-fortiessawadropto130,000.Whenhostilitiesandgasolinerationingendedin1947,therewere900,000visitors;over1millionin1948.Bythemid-fifties,thenumberrosetomorethan1.5million;andby1978,morethan3millionpeopleayearwerecomingtovisitthePark.
PreparationsEveryyearthousandsofpeopleofallageshikeinRockyMountainNationalPark,butafewprecautionsareinorder:
Weather.InColorado'shighcountrytheruleistoexpecttheunexpected.It'snotunusualtoexperience50°sinJanuaryorasnowstorminAugust.AsunnymorningatBearLakecanturnintoafreezingrainatopHallettPeak.Gopreparedwithclothingforallextremesandrememberthatweathercanchangerapidlywithlittlewarning.
ProperDress.Dressinlayers,preparedtopeeloffalayerorsliponanother.Raingearisparticularlyessentialduringinevitablesummerthunderstorms.
ItemsToCarry.Startwithaday-packwiththeessentialsofwaterproofmatches,mapandcompass,pocketknife,spaceblanketorponcho,firstaidkit,nyloncord,waterbottle,extrafood,sunglassesandsunscreen,andaflashlight.Addtothelistdependingonseasonanddurationofhike.
FoodandDrink.Carryhigh-energyfoodtosuityourtasteandplentyofwater.Exertion,altitude,andwindconspiretodehydratethebody.Giardiamicrobes,whichcausedysentary-likesymptomsifingested,requirethatwaterfromstreamsbefilteredorboiledbeforedrinking.
AltitudeSickness.Headaches,dizziness,andlightnauseamaybeearlysymptomsofaltitudesickness.Visitorsfromlowerelevationsareparticularlysusceptibleandshoulddescendifsymptoms.occur.
Hypothermia.Severechill,nausea,disorientation,andprofoundlethargymaybesymptomsofhypothermia,whichisalossofbodytemperatureduetofactorssuchasimproperdress,dehydration,
exhaustion,exposure,andpoorphysicalcondition.Changeintodryclothing,putonadditionalclothing,drinkwarmliquids,anddescendtolowerelevationsasquicklyaspossible.Hypothermiacanoccuranytimeofyear.
NaturalHazards.Lightningiscommonduringsummerthunderstorms.Avoidhighpointsandexposedareasifastormisapproachinganddescend.Exercisecautionaroundthemanywaterfallsandstreams.Manybanksandoverlooksarelooseandslippery,particularlywhenwet.Wildlifeshouldbeviewedonlyfromasafedistance.Thisistheirhome,andhereyouaretheguest.Wintertravelhasaddeddangersoffrostbiteandavalancheandshouldbeundertakenonlybythosefullyexperiencedinsuchmatters.
Maps.ThemapsinthisguidearefromTrailsIllustrated'sRockyMountainNationalParkmap.Hikenumbersdenotethedestinationorgeneralareaofthehikesasnumberedintheguide.
Remember,thisguideisnotasubstituteforyourcommonsenseandhikingexperience.Alwaysconsideryourgeneralhealthandphysicalconditionandthatofyourcompanionswhenselectingatrail.Then,walksoftlywithrespectforthelandaroundyou.
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SOUTHEASTTrailsNearLongsPeak1FinchLake2CalypsoCascadesandOuzelFalls3OuzelLake4EstesCone5ChasmLake6LongsPeak7TwinSistersMountain
Ifyou'relookingforlandscapesrichinwaterfeatures,youcannotdobetterthanhikeintheWildBasinareaofthesoutheastregion.Heretherearetranquillakes,superbriverscenery,cascadesandwaterfalls.Ontheotherhand,onlyafewmilesaway,aretwohikestomountainsummits.OneoffersfineviewsofLongsPeakalongthewayandapanoramicviewfromthetop;whiletheotheristhemostfamoushikeintheparktheclimbtothesummitofLongsPeak.
ThesetrailscanbereachedbytravelingsouthonColorado7fromEstesPark;alternatively,pickupColorado7headingwestoutofLyonstothesoutheastcorneroftheparkwheretheroadturnsnorth.Drivingtheentiresectionofthishighwayalongtheeasternboundaryoftheparkisatreatthesceneryisspectacular.
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FinchLake
Trailhead(1): 0.2mileseastoftheWildBasinRangerStation
Distanceoneway: 4.5milesAltitudegain: 1,440feetElevationatdestination:
9,910feet
ThehiketoFinchLaketakesyouthroughavarietyofpleasantandinterestinglandscapes-forestsofmixedconifers,superbaspenglens,andasoberlyfascinatingareadevastatedbyfire.Thelakeitself,nestledamongtreesanddisplayedagainstthemassiveformofCopelandMountain,isastudyintranquility.
ThereisawebofroutesthatleadintotheFinchLakeTrail,butthemostdirectbeginsattheappropriatelynamedFinchLakeTrailhead,locatedabout0.2mileseastoftheWildBasinRangerStation.
Thefirstmileoftrailascendssomewhatsteeplythroughdenseforestofpineandfirshadyandmoistenoughtonurturesizablepatchesofmoss,studdedhereandtherewithparsleyferns.Duringlatesummerit'sslowgoingalongthisstretchsincewildraspberriesareripeningwithinanarm'sreachofthepath.Redberryelderisalsoripeningitsfruit,butfordecorationonlytheseberriesaretoxic.Bymid-September,thegrouseberryshrubletsthatcoversomuchoftheforestfloortakeontintsofyellow,rose,andcopperyred.Buttheblackberriesthatthisblueberryrelativeproducesareseldomatemptation,thankstotheabundanceofgrouseinthearea.
Thetrailhookstotheright(southwest),andthesecondmileissignaledbyalevelingofthegrade.Theconiferousforestgiveswaytoanopenstandofyoungaspen,sooninterruptedbyasmallbutsuperbgroveofmatureponderosapine,theirredtrunksanddeepgreen
needlesbeautifullysetoffagainsttheslenderwhitestemsandsilverygreenleavesoftheirdeciduouscompanions.Thenaspenagaintakeover,thetreesnowmuchlarger,straighter,andarrayedintighterformation-ameshofshimmeringgoldinlateSeptemberandreasonenoughtohikethistrail.
Severaltrailsconvergeabout1.8milesfromthetrailhead,butthesearewellsortedoutbysignscontinuewest.Lodgepole,spruce,andfiragaindominatetheforest,asthetrailbecomessteeperandrockier.Occasionally,thereareniceviewsofWildBasin,PagodaMountain,ChiefsHeadPeak,andMountMeeker.
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FinchLakeintherain
Anothercrossingoftrailsmarksthe2.3-milepoint.Signsclearlyindicatedirection:thetrailtotheleftleadstoAllenspark,theonetotherightgoestoCalypsoCascades,andtheonestraightaheadleadssouthwesttoFinchLake.
Thegrademoderates,andthelandscapeundergoesasuddenanddramaticchangeasthetrailenterstheareadevastatedbyaforestfirein1978.Mostofthetreesarestillstandingcharred,denudedofbranches,andstrippedofbark,theycompriseaskeletonforest,starkbutfascinating.Incontrasttoothersectionsoftheburn,thispartseemstobemakingastrongcomeback,withenoughsaplinglodgepoletoapproximatetheoriginaldensity.Anabundanceofwildflowersalsolightensthemood,witherigeron,aster,andpearlyeverlastingputtingonashowfrommidsummerintofall.Farfromsomberanddepressing,thisisoneofthemostinterestingandmemorablepartsofthetrail.
Theburnedareacontinuesforthebetterpartofamile,thenit'sback
tolivingforest.Thepathisnearlyleveluntil0.5milesfromthelake.Hereitbeginstodescend,graduallyatfirst,andthenquitesteeply,tothemarshyshore.
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Aspenaboutamilealongthetrail
Thelakeappearsquitesuddenly,andthefirstviewisperhapsthebest,withCopelandMountainseenasabackdropandreflectedinthewater.Insomeplaces,marshgrassesgrowalongtheshore;elsewhere,thebanksarespongywithmulti-coloredmosses.It'sapleasantandtranquilsetting,justtheplaceforaleisurelylunchandastrollaroundthelake.
ThosenotwantingtoretracetheentireroutecanreturntothetrailjunctionattheeastendoftheburnareaandcomebackbywayofCalypsoCascades.Thisentailsanadditionaldownhillmile,butinreturnyougettoenjoysomeofthebestriversceneryinthepark(seep.23).
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CalypsoCascadesandOuzelFalls
Trailhead(2): WildBasinRangerStation
Distanceoneway: 1.8miles(cascades),and2.7milesfromtrailhead(falls)
Altitudegain: 700feet(cascades),and950feet(falls)
Elevationatdestination: 9,200feet(cascades),and9,450feet(falls)
Waterfalls,cascades,andsuperbriversidesceneryareamongthemanyhighlightsofthishike.Addingtotheinterest,isawalkthroughpartoftheareathatwasravagedbyfirein1978,althoughmostofthetrailpassesthroughforestwhoselushgrowthreflectstheaboundanceofmoistureinthearea.Forthosewhoenjoythesightandsoundofrushingwaterandtherichenvironmentsitfosters,thistrailwillbeafavorite.
OuzelFallstakesitsnamefromalark-sized,mousy-graybirdtheouzeloftenseencavortinginwhitewater.Sometimescalledthedipperbecauseofitsjerkybobbingmotions,thisCharlieChaplinofthewaterwaysoftenseeksshelterbehindacascadeanow-you-see-it-now-youdon'ttrickguaranteedtoamuseandbewilder.
Toreachthetrailhead,exitwestoffofColorado7aboutamilenorthofAllenspark,anddrivetotheWildBasinRangerStation.TheroadispavedtoCopelandLake,thenunpavedforthenext2milestothestation.
TheroadpassesclosetoCopelandLake,andsoonentersamixedforestgracedwithseveralstreamsjustahintofthescenerytocome.Ifyoucan,parkattherangerstationspaceislimited,andthelotisoftenfullbefore9A.M.duringtheweekendsofsummer.Parkingcanbe
hadontheapproachroad,asecondbestthatcanaddahalf-miletothehike,andnotthemostscenichalf-mile.
ThetrailheadtoCalypsoCascadesandOuzelFallsisclosetotheparkinglotandoppositethestation.CopelandFallsisonly0.3milesfromthetrailhead,althoughit'sworthyofamuchlongerhike.Thisisnotalargefeature,butitisbeautifulinitssetting,initsproportion,andinthewayitgivesplaytothewater.
Curbyoureagernesstoreachthefallsandtaketimetoenjoythesuperbriversceneryinthefirstthree-fourthsofamileabitofthe
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bestintheparknotasspectacularaswhatcomeslater,butspecialinaquieterway.Toenjoyitfully,explorethesidepaththatparallelsthemaintrailwithinafewfeetofthebanks,occasionallyvanishingontohugeslabsofgranitehundredsofsquareyardsinextent.Buttakecaretoavoidthoseplaceswheresignsdesignaterevegetationareas.
Snow-meltinthehighcountrypeaksduringtheheatofJuneandearlyJuly,andbringstheriverstotheirfullest.Butbymidsummer,theflowdecreases,thereislesswhitewater,thecascadesarelessboisterous,andthefallslessrambunctious.Buttheover-alleffectisatleastaspleasing.Now,moreoftherockwallthatconfinestheriverisvisible,
OuzelFalls
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CopelandFalls
there'smorebalanceandvarietythanearlier,andwecanbestappreciateitsstructureanddetail.
FornearlyamilethepathparallelsNorthSaintVrainCreek.Inonesectiontheshoreisdefinedbyanenormousslabofgranite,itsfissuresamacrameofmossesandwildflowers.Thenalder,aspenandfirmakewayforpineasyoulosecontactwiththeriver,butwithin1.5milesyouagainmeetupwithit.CrossingalogbridgenearthepointwhereConyCreekjoinsNorthSaintVrainCreek,thetrailcontinuestoCalypsoCascadeslessthan0.3milesfurther.
CalypsoCascades
CalypsoCascadesisnamedforthedelicatelybeautifulcalypsoorchidthatgrowsalongitsbanks,butitsactionandappearanceseemmoreappropriatetothemusicofthatnameunpredictable,jaggedlyenergetic,andprimitive.Unlessyourhikecelebratestheendofaparticularlywetspring,donotexpecttobegreetedbyatorrentthisisnotalargefeature.Nevertheless,thethemeispowerandenergyanditisathemethatiswellchurnedoverinthesecascades.
Thefirstviewofthecascadesisfromanoverlookafewstepstothe
rightofthetrail.Ahuge,splitboulderperchesontheotherside,and
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waterfromsometributarydividesandfoamsaroundit.Betweenboulderandcascadesasmallgroupofpineshasfoundaprecariousperchprotected,yetperpetuallythreatened.
Furtheron,thecascadescomecrashingdownthroughasluicewayofenormousboulders,andpassesunderthefootbridgethatcontinuesthetrail.Upstream,thethrashingwaterissplitbymassive,rockoutcroppings,thelargestsupportingminiaturegardenscompletewithtreesandshrubs,andallalongthebankstheforestislushandverdant,inresponsetotheabundanceofwaterinthearea.Allofwhichmakesthechangeinscenerythatliesaheadthatmuchmoredramaticandsurprising.
OuzelForestFire
SoonafterleavingthecascadesthetrailenterstheareaoftheOuzelFireof1978.Manyofthedeadlodgepolestillstand,theirtrunksblackwithcharorstrippedbaretothesilveryheartwood;otherslieuprootedandcracked,slowlydecayinginthemountainatmosphere.It'sasceneoftotaldevastation,butratherthanappearingdarkordreary,ithasanaustereanderiebeauty.
OuzelFalls
Aftermorethan0.5milesthetrailleavestheburnareaandclimbsthroughswitchbackstoOuzelFalls.YoufirstseethefallsfromabridgethatspansOuzelCreekandcontinuesthetrailtoOuzelLake.Thisfirstviewisnotthebestthefallsbeingafewhundredfeetawayandfacingtotheside.Butit'seasytogetaclose-inhead-onviewbyscramblinguptoitontheleftbankoverbouldersandthroughthicketssomecareisneededsincetherocksmaybewetandslippery.Agrassybankfacesthefallsandonawindydaywillgiveyouafacefullofspray,butclimbinganearbyboulderprovidesadrierperchandoffersthemostdramaticview.It'sagreatplaceforlunchandabitof
restbeforereturningtotherangerstationorheadingontoOuzelLake(seep.28).
WinterTrail
Thewinterroutetothefallsismuchlongerthanthesummerroute.Itbeginsattherangerstation,butnottheWildBasinRangerStationwithinafewhundredfeetoftrailhead.Instead,it'sthewinterstation,3milesbackdowntheroadthesummerstationissometimesopenforuseasawarminghut.
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Fromthewinterstationtheskitrailfollowstheroadtothesummerstation,theinitialsectionpassingnearthesouthshoreofCopelandLake.Here,foraboutaquarterofamile,thetrailmaybefreeofsnow,buttheremainderofthetrailisusuallywellpacked.Theskiingiseasyandimperceptiblyuphillalongthe3milestothewarminghut,thetrailwindingthroughforestsofaspen,pine,andspruce.AfastandeasythirdofamilebringsyoutoCopelandFalls,itsbeautycompletelyhiddenbysnow-coveredice.
Althoughtheriverandthemagnificentrockybanksarealsohiddenbysnow,thenexthalfmileofferssomesuperbscenerytotherightofthetrailwheresilverygreentraceryofwillow,alder,andelderaredelineatedagainstthegray-blackgraniteoutcropings.Thenthetrailbecomessteeper,andtheskiingbecomesmoreofachallenge.ConyCreekandtheNorthSaintVrainareallbutinvisibleevenCalypsoCascadesiscoveredandstilled,andOuzelFalls,completelyrobedinsnow,seemstohaveitsbackturnedtotheskier.
TheskibackfromOuzeltoCopelandFallsoffersseveralchallengingruns,butthelast3.5mi.iseasyenoughforanybeginner.
NorthSaintVrainCreek
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OuzelLake
Trailhead(2): WildBasinRangerStation
Distanceoneway: 4.9milesAltitudegain: 1,510feetElevationatdestination:
10,010feet
ThetrailtoOuzelLakeisacontinuationofthattoOuzelFalls,soyougettoseeCopelandFalls,CalypsoCascades,andOuzelFallsalongtheway.Theadditional2.2milesoffersweepingviewsofWildBasinandthesurroundingmountains,aswellastheareadevastatedbytheOuzelFireof1978.ThehikeendsatapleasantlakesurroundedbyforestandsetagainstCopelandMountain.
AfterleavingOuzelFallsthetrailrunsalongamassiverockescarpmentvividlycoloredinredandtan,complementedbyorangelichensandgreenmosses.Widebandsofblackcharstillbearwitnesstotheforestfireof1978.Butyoungfirtreeshavetakenrootatthefootofthewall,andarchawayfromitastheygrowtowardthelight.Asthetrailascends,
OuzelLake
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PartoftheOuzelFireburnof1978
thelandscapebecomesmoreopen,andonebeginstomorefullyappreciatetheextentofthedestruction.Lessthanahalf-milefromthefalls,thetrailsplits.TherighthandbranchgoestoThunderLake;theleft,whichistheonetofollow,goestoOuzelLake,andthenfarthertoBluebirdLake.
Pastthejunction,thetrailcontinuesthroughtheburnedarea.Hereonelooksoutatmilesofdevastationacauterizedlandscape.Skeletontrees,reddenedorcharredblack,somestillstanding,givetestimonytotheconflagration.Youngpines,2to3feettall,separatedfromeachotherbyhundredsoffeet,standamongtheremainsoflodgepolesthatenjoyedeachother'scompanyatadistanceof6to10feet.Yet,thisplacehasastarkandsomberbeautythegrayandblackhuesofthestandingdeadwoodandthegreensandredsofground-coveringgrouseberrysetagainstthemountainbackdrop.
Withinamileofthelakeyouleavetheburnedareaforthecompanyoflivingtreesthechangeissuddenanddramatic.AfewhundredyardsfromOuzelLake,asidetrailbranchesoffthemaintrailtotheleft
(southwest),andfollowsalongOuzelCreektothenorthshoreofthelake.Mostoftheshoreiswellforested,butthereareplentyofplaces
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neartheoutletofOuzelCreekwhereyoucansitandrelaxagainstatreeandenjoythescenery.ThedominantpeakisCopelandMountaintothesouth,whileMahanaPeaktothewest,andTanimaPeaktothenorthwestcompletethebackround.
ThosewhowantalongerhikecangobacktothemaintrailandcontinuewesttoBluebirdLake,amilefartherand970feethigher.ButmanywillwanttostaylongeratOuzelLakebeforereturningforasecondlookatOuzelFallsandCalypsoCascades.
Saplingfirandredcliff
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EstesCone
Trailhead(3): LongsPeakRangerStation
Distanceoneway: 3.3milesAltitudegain: 1,606feetElevationatdestination: 11,006feet
EstesConehasoneofthemoststrikingprofilesintheparkaperfectlycone-shapedpeak,exceptforthefortresslikeoutcroppingofstonethatformsitssummit.Asitslocationsuggests,itssummitprovidesexcellentviewsofMountMeeker,LongsPeak,TwinSistersPeaks,EstesPark,andtheMummyRange.RemainsoftheEugeniaMineaddhistoricinterest,andtheclimboutoftheforestandontothesummitisstrenuousenoughtoaddzesttotheascent.
ThetrailbeginsattheLongsPeakRangerStation,whichisreachedbyheadingwestoffofColorado7,about5milesnorthofAllensPark.Someofthemostpopularhikesintheparkbeginhere,andparkingspaceislimited,soitusuallypaystoarriveearly.
Startingattherangerstation,thetrailtoEstesConecoincideswiththattoLongsPeakandChasmLakeforaboutone-thirdofamile,thenbranchesofftotheright(east).Thereareafewsmallstandsofaspen,butmostofthetrailisthroughconiferousforestlodgepole,pine,spruce,andfirpredominate.
Atthe1.4-milemark,abridgeconstructedofhalvedtreetrunkstakesyouacrossInnBrooktotheremainsofalogcabinthathousedtheminerswhoworkedtheEugeniaMine,anenterprizebegunandabandonedneartheturnofthecentury,leavingnoonethericher.Afewhundredfeettothenorthwest,amoundofminetailingsabutstheshoreofthestream,andabitfartheron,arustingironboilerstandssentryovertherubble.
Thetrailcontinues,sometimesmoderatelyascending,sometimes,moderatelydescending.Thereareenoughdescendingsectionstomakethenetaltitudegainof1,606feetfromtrailheadtosummitamisleadingindicationoftheeffortinvolved.
Atthe2.5milemarkthetrailsplitstheleftbranchheadsnortheasttoGlacierBasin,andtherightbranchheadssoutheastuptoEstesCone.Andupitis,forinthenexthalf-milethetrailclimbs750feet,withthelast30feetarockscrambleclosertoperpendicularthantohorizontal.
Nearthebeginningofthislasthalf-mile,thetrailpassesthroughanunusual,butbeautiful,forestoflodgepolepine.Thetreesarequite
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EstesCone
widelyspaced,oftenmanytrunked,oldandmassivenotatalllikethedenselypacked,straighttrunkedstandsthesetreesusuallyform.Thegroundiscoveredbygravelandsand,coloredamauve-tanexceptforolivegreen,amoebashapedpatternsofdecomposingpineneedlessurroundingthebaseofeachtree.
Asyouascend,thetrailgetssteeperandmoreindistinct,althoughsmallcairnsclearlymarktheway.HerethereareseveralsectionsofthetrailwheretheforestopenstorevealsuperbviewsofMountMeekerandLongsPeak.Finally,youarriveatamassiveoutcroppingofrock,colorfullyembellishedwithlichen.Butthisisnotthesummitthetrailcontinuesafewhundredfeettoamuchmoremassivewall.Followthecairns,andtakecareasyouscrambleupthenarrowtrail.Thisisthesteepestpartofthehike,butit'sonly30feetinextent,andtheexposureisnominal.Nevertheless,thissectionofthetrailwarrantscaution,particularlywhenwet.
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NearingthesummitofEstesCone
Attheendofthispartoftheclimb,youfindyourselfonasmallplateau.Butthisisnotthesummiteither.Apromontoryofrockrisessome15feetabovetheplateau,anditsthetopofthisthatdefinesthetruesummit.Cairnsstartyououtinthegeneraldirection,butthefinalfewstepswillbeofyourchoosing.Atthetopspaceislimited,anditcanbecrowdedsincepeopletendtolingerawhilenowonder,consideringthespectacularviews.TotheeastrisethetwindomesofTwinSistersPeaks;tothesouthwestMountMeekerandLongsPeakdominatethehorizon;andEstesParkstretchestothenortheast,atthefootoftheMummyRange.EstesLakeisadominantfeature,andcloserisLilyLake.Allthisforamerethree-milehike,althoughthesteepnessofthelasthalf-milewillberemembered.
Thedescentofthesteepsectionrequiresatleastasmuchcareastheascent,butthentheremainderofthehikebacktotherangerstationiseasyenoughtopermitfullenjoymentoftheforestscenery.
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ChasmLake
Trailhead(3): LongsPeakRangerStation
Distanceoneway: 4.2milesAltitudegain: 2,360feetElevationatdestination:
11,760feet
Thislake,magnificentandaloofinitsstarkdesolation,setagainstthefamedeastfaceofLongsPeak,embodiesthemostruggedaspectofthealpineregion.Beforeyoureachthelake,youpassthroughthreeclimatezonesacrossawonderfuldiversityofterrainfromgentletoharsh,makingthisoneofthemostpopularhikesinthepark.
StartingattheLongsPeakRangerStation,thetrailascendsatamoderateinclineforthefirst2milesthroughconiferousforesthomogeneous,exceptforpleasantAlpineBrook,whichyoucrossnearthe1.5-milemark.Then,nearingtimberline,thelandscapeopensup,revealingasweepingviewoftheRoaringForkdrainage.
Threemilesfromthestartthetrailsplitstheright-handbranchleadstotheBoulderFieldandLongsPeakbywayoftheKeyhole,whiletheleftgoestoChasmLake.Thetrailcontinuesitsmoderateascentacrossthetundra,almostalwaysinviewofLongsPeak.Oneofthemostconspicuousandoftenwelcomefeaturesisanouthousedominatingarisewithacommandingviewofthevalleybelow.
ContinuingalongthetrailwegetourfirstglimpseofPeacockPool,500feetbelow.Althoughmodestinsize,itssparkleandcolordramaticallysetitofffromthestarksurroundingsandgivenitsblue-greenshimmer,theanalogywithapeacock'splumageiswell-taken.Furtheralong,youseeColumbineFalls,adelicatemacrameofrivuletsbraidingandunbraidingovertherocksfromtrailheightto
PeacockPool,150feetbelow.
Thenextsectionoftrailprovidesasurprisingcontrasttowhatliesbehindandaheadasitcontinuesthroughamarshyalpinemeadow,hopscotchingastreamwhoseformermeandersdefineachainofsmallreflectingpools.Boththestreamandthepoolsareborderedwithhummocksofgrassesandsedges;Arcticwillowsenjoythemoistureasdoallsortsoffloweringplants,liketheexquisitealpinegentianwithitssessile,trumpet-shapedbloomsofjade-likegreenishwhite.
Screeandrockthenreclaimtheterrain,andthelastpartofthehikeisasteepbutshortscrambleuptotherimofChasmLake.Youdon'tseeituntilyoureachtheledgesabovethewaterandthenwhatgreetsyouisamonumentalsceneofunforgettablegrandeur.
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ChasmLake
Flagtreesneartimberline
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Thelakeissteely-gray.Noplantsmoderatetherawangularityoftherockthatrisesprecipitouslytoformitsbasin.Broodingovertheoppositeshore,loomingahalf-mileabovethelake,istheeastfaceofLongsPeak,MillsGlacieratitsbase.
TheperfectlyverticalportionoftheeastfaceistheDiamondameccaforworld-classclimbers.OnalmostanyweekendinJulyandAugustonecanwatchthemperformit'saslow-motionballetonaverticalstage.Butevenafront-rowseatistoofarbackforagoodview,andbinocularscomeinhandy.
Thereareotherdiversionscloserathand.Soonerorlaterawelcomingcommitteeofyellow-belliedmarmotswilldropbytogreetyou.FatasOctoberbears,butboldlyfeigningstarvation,theybrazenlybegahandoutfortheirhealth,resistthecuteantics,anddon'tgivein.Themuchsmallerbutequallycartoonypikatendstoignoretheintruders,whilegoingaboutitsbusinessofharvestingthatchwithgreatpurpose.
Betweentheanimals,theclimbers,andtheincomparablescenery,ChasmLakeishardtoleave.Althoughnotallofthelakeshoreisaccessible,youcanexploretheeasternedgetherearemanyexcellentviewpoints,someatthelakeshore,andothersonledgeswellabovethewater.TheonlythinglikelytocutyourvisitshortisoneofthosefrequentthunderstormsthatcomebytobadgerLongsPeakintheafternoons.
PeacockPool
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LongsPeak
Trailhead(3): LongsPeakRangerStation
Distanceoneway: 8milesAltitudegain: 4,855feetElevationatdestination:14,255feet
TheclimbtothesummitofLongsPeakistheonlyhikecoveredherethatrequiresmorethan10milesfortheroundtripandanelevationgainofmorethan4,000feetbutthefameandpopularityofthehikejustifiestheexception.
Whatmakesthispeaksuchapopulardestination?Longsisthemostprominentfeatureintheparka14,255-footpresenceconspicuousthroughoutthehighcountry.Tolookdownonitallfromitssummithasbeenadreamofmillionsofvisitors10,000tryiteveryyear;about3,000succeed.Thehikepassesthroughthreezonesmontane,subalpine,andalpine-overterrainofgreatbeautyandinterest.Themountain'sformisuniqueandimposing.Cappedbyamonstrousblockofgranitewhoseeastfacetowersnearly2,500feetaboveChasmLake,itcreatesanddominatesanunforgettablelandscape.AddtothisthemystiqueofhistoryandIndianlegend,andthefactthatthisistheonly''fourteener"inthepark,andtheattractioniseasytounderstand.
Thedistanceandaltitudegaininvolveddictateabitofforethoughtandspecialprecautions.Sincethemountainattractsafternoonthunderstormslikeamagnet,hikersareadvisedtobeoffthesummitbynoon.Thisleadstotwoalternativestrategiesstartthehikeatabout3or4inthemorning,orcampoutthenightbefore.Thefirstisbetterdescribedasanighthike,notadayhike,robbingthosewithoutowlvisionofagreatdealofthescenicpleasure,atleastonthewayup.Thesecondoptioninvolvesatwo-dayhike,andrequiressome
advancedplanningtoassureastrategiccampsite.
TheBoulderField,5.9milesfromtrailhead,isthemostfrequentlyusedbasecamp,althoughtheBattleMountaincampgroundisalsopopular.TheBoulderFieldisabout2milesfromthesummit,ismostlyfreeofmosquitos,andofferssuperviewsoftheEastFaceandtheKeyhole.Eachcampsiteisdefinedbyawaist-high,circularwallofstonecratersinalunarlandscape.Freshwaterisavailableatseveralspringsinthearea,butpossiblecontaminationbyhumans,horses,andgiardiaadvisestreatingthewaterbeforeuse,preferablybyboiling.Asolarouthousecompletestheaccommodations.
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LongsPeakfromtheBoulderField
CampingattheBoulderFieldisbyreservationonly,andsincethereareonly8sites,reservationsareoftenmademonthsinadvance.ReservationscanbemadeinpersonallyearattheBackCountryOfficeeastoftheparkheadquartersneartheBeaverMeadowsEntrance,orattheKawuneecheVisitorCenteronthewestsideofthepark.Whenopenfortheseason,reservationscanbemadeinpersonattheLongsPeakRangerStationortheWildBasinRangerStation.BeforeJune1,reservationscanbemadebyphonebycalling303-586-4459.Cancellationscanbemadebyphone,anddoingsoearlyallowsotherstousethesite.ReservationsforcampsitesonBattleMountainarehandledsimilarly.
ThehikedescribedherestartsattheLongsPeakRangerStation.Thefirsttwomilesoftrailleadthroughforestofpine,fir,andspruce,occasionallypassingalongsideAlpineBrook.Themostdramaticviewappearsabout1.5mi.fromtrailheadasthebrookcascadesbelowawoodenbridgethroughbanksofyellow-floweredmimulusit'stemptingtolinger,butthere'salotofgroundtocover.Beyondthebrook,subalpinefirgetsthebetterofpine,andsoontheforestshrinkstoKrummholz,theelfingrovespermittingexpansiveviewsofthetwinpeaksofTwinSistersandthevalleybelow.
Abovetimberline,atthe2.5milemark,thetrailveersleftontopuretundra.Halfamilefurtherthetrailsplits:straightaheadleadstoChasmLake;leftleadstoaskylinetoilet;headingright(west)takesyoutoLongsbywayofGranitePass.
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Finally,afteracouplemorecobblymiles,you'reattheBoulderFieldwithitsgrandviewoftheEastFaceandtheKeyhole.Thosespendingthenightheremightenjoyscramblinguptheridgeofrockyrubbletothesouthofthetrail.Therewardisaspectacular,straight-downviewofChasmLake,andanunbeatableviewofTheDiamond,thatprecipitousupperportionoftheEastFacethathaschallengedthebestrockclimbersfordecades.TheridgemeldsintotheedgeoftheEastFacewheretheoldcableroutetookhikerstothepeak.Consideredadefacement,thecableswereremovedin1973,andthisrouteisnowratedasatechnicalclimb.
WiththesummitofLongsasthedestination,thenextstopistheKeyhole,anotchinthestoneflangejoiningStormPeakandLongs,about0.5milesfromtheBoulderFieldand500feetaboveit.Framedagainsttheskyliketheclawsofacrabposturingdefiance,it'soneofthemostextraordinaryfeaturesinthisextraordinarylandscape.ThejumbleofbouldersthatdefinetheBoulderFieldsweepupwardtotheKeyhole,moderatelyatfirst,andthenquitesteeply.TotheleftoftheKeyholestandsastonehuterectedtothememoryofAgnesVaille.HavingaccomplishedthefirstwinterascentoftheEastFaceonJanuary12,1925,shewascaughtinastormanddiedofexposure;acompanionlostfingers,toes,andpartofafoot;andawould-berescueralsofrozetodeath.
ButstepthroughtheKeyholeandthesedarkreflectionsvanishonlyAlicethroughtheLookingGlasscouldhaveexperiencedgreaterexhilaration.GlacierGorgestretchesthousandsoffeetbelow,backed
TheKeyholeatsunrise
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byagatheringof"thirteeners"fromlefttoright(southeasttonorthwest)Pagoda,ChiefsHead,andMcHenrypeaks.Oftentherearehawksglidingontheaircurrentsathousandfeetbelow.Butthereisstilla1.5-miletrektothesummit,and1,000feetofelevationgainyettogo.PasttheKeyholethetrailbeginsatraverseaboutathirdofamilelong.Herethegradeismoderatelydownhill,althoughthereisnearlyasmuchexposureasinlatersections.Atthispoint,thosehavingafearofheightsorfeelingtheeffectsofthealtitudeshouldconsiderturningback.
ThetraverseleadsintoTheTroughwhereexposureisnotaconcern.Muchoftheremainingaltitudegainisaccountedforhere,climbingoverchunksofgraniteatanangleapproaching35degrees.Watchoutfor
TheNarrows(photobyDickHolley)
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ChasmLakeandPeacockPoolfromthesummitofLongsPeak(photobyDickHolley)
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LongsPeakfromBearLake
fallingrocks,andtakecarenottofreeany.After0.5milesyouentertheNarrows,andexposureisagainaconsideration.Forthemostparttherouteislevelandaswideasageneroussidewalk,butthereisashortstretchwhereit'spinchedtoacoupleoffeetandthewallrisingabovetakesadisconcertingtiltoverthedropoffbutafewstepsandyouarepastit.
TheNarrowscontinuesforseveralhundredfeettothebaseofHomeStretch,wideslabsofstone,inclinednearly45degrees,thatleadtothesummit450feetabove.Althoughyoucanstandhereandthere,ascendingordescendingHomeStretchisusuallydoneonallfours,primordialfashion,abitinelegant,butsafe.Whenwet,thestoneisslippery,andevenmorecautioniswarranted.
Thenyou'reonthetopofLongsPeak.Hallelujah!it'sthetopoftheworld!well,atleastlocally,it'sthetopoftheworld.
Thesummitisaslargeasafootballfield,andnearlyasflat.Everydirectionhasitsgrandviews.StormPeakistothenorthwest;MountMeekertothesoutheast.TothewestarethemountainsoftheContinentalDivide;tothesouthisWildBasin.And2,500feetbelowtheEastFaceisChasmLakeandPeacockPool.
AlthoughthehiketoLongsPeakisjustifiablyfamousandpopular,itshouldnotbeundertakenlightly.Thedistance,altitude,andexposurecombinetomakethisaverystrenuousone-daytrip.Thosewhodomaketheclimbwillrememberitforever.
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TwinSistersPeaks
Trailhead(4): TwinSistersTrailhead
Distanceoneway: 3.7milesAltitudegain: 2,340feetElevationatdestination: 11,430feet
ThetrailtothetwinsummitsofTwinSistersPeaksofferssomeofthefinestviewsoftheirbigbrothertothewestLongsPeak.Amorningstartshowsthepeak'seastfaceinfulllightnowframedbyaspen,thenconifers,andfinallybyoutcroppingsofrockfromthetopofTwinSisters.ButthereismuchmoretothishikethangreatviewsofLongsPeak.Thetrailstartsinthemontanezoneandtakesyouclosetothealpinezone,fromdenseforesttosparetundra,acrossavarietyoflandscapes.
TeepeepolesandaspenintheButterflyBurnof1929
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-LongsPeakfromtheTwinSistersTrail
ThetrailheadisreachedbyashortandruttydirtroadthatexitseastoffColorado7lessthan1milenorthoftheexittotheLongsPeakRangerStation.Theskimpyparkinglotholdsaboutadozencars,soitusuallypaystogetthereearly.Theaccessroad,parkinglot,andtrailheadareonprivateland.Thetrailitselfzigzagsbetweenprivateandparkterritorywiththesummitsontheveryboundaryofthetwoastrangestateofaffairsthatseesthetwodomainsdelineatedhereandtherebybarbedwireforthefirstquarterofamile.Ofcourse,thepublicuseofprivatelandisaprivilegewhichshouldnotbeabused.
Thetrailbeginsinadenseandshadyforestofpine,spruceandfir,skirtsasuperbstandofaspen,andthensnakesupthemountainthroughaseriesofswitchbacks.OccasionalclearingsthroughthetreesoffersuperblyframedviewsofLongsPeak.Thepathiswithinthecomfortablecoverofconiferousforestuntilthelast0.75mi.Neartimberlinetherearesomeextraordinarylimberpines,thick-trunkedandwind-stretchedtohorizontaltheyseemtobelevitating,tauntinggravity.
Thecontrastbetweenforestandtundraissuddenandspectacular,andherethetrailbeginstoascendthroughseveralshortbutsteep
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switchbackstothesouthpeakofTwinSisters.Thesmall,cobblestonebuildingandaradioantennanearthesummitareusedforparkcommunications;thebuildingiskeptlocked,andisnotintendedtobeusedasashelter.Thetrailcontinuescounterclockwisearoundthesideofthecabinandclimbssteeplyuparockpromontorythatcapsthesummit.
Fromheretheviewsarespectacular:LongsPeakwithcompanionsMountMeekerandMountLadyWashingtontothesouthwest;EstesParkwithitsdividedlaketotheeast;thetwin'sotherpeaktothenorth;andtheplainsstretchingtoBoulderandDenvertothesoutheast.Ingoodweatherfewpeoplearequicktoleavethesummit,soexpectsomecompany.It'sagreatplacetolingeroverlunch,takeintheview,andwatchtheravensperformaerialacrobaticsabovethepeaksandinthevalleysbelow.
RadioantennanearthesummitofTwinSistersMountain
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Page47
NORTHEASTTrailsFromGlacierGorgeJunction8AlbertaFalls9MillsLake10BlackLake11TheLoch12TimberlineFalls,LakeofGlass,SkyPond
ThetrailsfromGlacierGorgeJunctionleadtosomeofthemostfamouslakesintheparkalpinelakesandsubalpinelakesofunsurpassedbeauty.Superbriverscenery,cascades,andwaterfallsareprominentfeaturesofthesehikes,andGlacierGorgeitselfisanattraction.ToreachGlacierGorgeJunction,headsouthfromtheBeaverMeadowsentranceonBearLakeRoadforabout9miles.Thepopularityofthisregionisnotreflectedinthesizeoftheparkinglot,andthelotisoftenfilledby9a.m.onsummerweekends.Ifspaceisunavailable,youcancontinue0.7milesfurtherandparkattheBearLakelota0.4miletrailconnectsthetwolots.Butifbotharefilled,whichisoftenthecase,youcanreturntotheBearLakeshuttlebusdepot,4.8milesfromtheBeaverMeadowsentrance.Hereyoucanparkyourcar,andtakethebustoGlacierGorgeJunction.
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AlbertaFalls
Trailhead(1): GlacierGorgeJunction
Distanceoneway: 0.6milesAltitudegain: 160feetElevationatdestination:
9,400feet
ThewalkfromGlacierGorgeJunctiontoAlbertaFallsmaybethemostpopularintheparkinpartbecausethetrailisshortandeasybutmainlybecauseit'sbeautifulandvaried.AlbertaFallsisoneofthemostimpressivefallsinthepark,andalongthetrailyouseescenicGlacierCreekandwalkalongtherimofGlacierGorge.
Earlyon,thetrailpassesthroughseveralsuperbaspengroves,butalmostallthetreeswithin10feetofthetrailhavepaidfortheirbeautywiththeirhidesananthologyoftravelandinfatuationcarvedinto
GlacierGorge
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thebark.It'sdifficulttounderstandwhypeopledrawntovisittheparkaredriventosuchthoughtlessandirresponsiblevandalism.Still,thelandscapeismagnificentmarred,butmagnificent.
AbouthalfwaytothefallsthepathanglestotherightontoabalconyofrockthatfallsawayinanearlyverticaldroptotheriverbelowoneofthemostspectacularoverlooksofGlacierGorge.
GlacierCreekmeandersbesidethetrail;sometimesyouhearonlyitsmusic,othertimesyouseeitthroughtheaspens.Thereareplaceswherethetrailcomeswithin20feetofthebank,andonecaneasilydescendtothewater'sedgetoviewsomeofthebeststreamsidesceneryinthe
AlbertaFalls
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park.Aspen,alder,willow,redberriedelder,red-ozierdogwood,andfirpopulatethebanks;Parryprimrose,monkeyflower,bluechimingbells,cowparsnip,monarda,lady'stresses,anddozensofotherwildflowersaddsparksofcolorduringmuchofthesummer.
AlbertaFallsitselfcomesthunderingintoviewquitesuddenly,careeningagainstthewallsofthegranitechuteitcarvedforitself.Thepassage,toostingyinwidthfortheamountofwatertransported,constrictstherivertofoamasittumblesdownthenarrowcanyon.Thebanksandsurroundingterrainconsistoflargeslabsofgraniteandhugeboulders.Snakyaspenemergefromthecrevicesintherockandbetweentheboulders,seemingtosurvivewithoutthebenefitofsoil.Thisremarkablegroveoftrees,soaccessibleandsoconspicuous,hasalsobeentotallydefacedfromgroundleveltoashighasonecanreachwithajackknife.Therockledgesthatdefinethecanyonareeasilyclimbed,andofferspectacularviewsoftheriverasithurlsitselfintothedescent.
Afterastopatthefallsmanyturnback,butthepathcontinuesontosomeofthemostrenownedlakesinthepark:Mills,Haiyaha,andTheLoch.Thisisanotherreasonwhythetrailissopopular.
WinterTrailtoAlbertaFalls
Inwinter,thetrailfromtheGlacierGorgeparkinglottoAlbertaFallsisabeginner'sskioreasysnowshoetrek,withthesteepestascentbeginningandendingwithinafewhundredyardsofthetrailhead.Atthistimeofyear,thecreekparallelingthetrailisencasediniceandcoveredbysnow,concealingoneofthetrail'smostpleasantsummerfeatures.Butwinteroffersitsownspecialtreats.Hereandtheregroupsofyoung,palegray-greenaspenstandaloneorareinterwovenwithanoccasionalfirorpine.Nearthehalfwaymark,wherethetrailbendssharplytotheright,thehikerisbroughttotherimofGlacierGorge,evenmoreimposinginwinterthanatotherseasons.Thewall
facingyouisclearofsnowexceptfortherimandadelicatetracingwovenintothecrevicesofthenearlyverticalsides.
Indeepwinter,AlbertaFallsishiddenbyablanketofsnow,andthereisnoindicationofitsroller-coasterrushthroughtherockchutetothebouldersbelow.ThetrailpastthefallscontinuesuptoMillsLake,TheLoch,andHaiyaha,butisseldomfollowedinwintersincetherearestretchesthatareregularlyrakedbyhighwinds,andothersthatposeanavalanchehazard.Fortunately,therearesaferalternateroutesthatgetyoutothefirsttwoduringwinter(seep.54).
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MillsLake
Trailhead(1): GlacierGorgeJunction
Distanceoneway: 2.5milesAltitudegain: 700feetElevationatdestination: 9,950feet
EnosMillswasoneofthepark'sgreatheroes.From1884to1922,hemadehishomeinthesemountains,actingasanaturalistandguide,popularizingtheareathroughhiswritings,andtirelesslycampaigningfortheestablishmentofanationalpark.MillsLakeisnamedinhishonor,andwhatamemorialitis.Nolakeismorebeautifulorhasamoreimpressivebackdrop.Thehikepassesthroughsuchsuperbscenerythatmostwouldconsideritrewardenough,evenwithouttheincomparablelakeatitsdestination.
MillsLake
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DwarfedfirbackedbytheKeyboardOfTheWinds
TheinitialpartofthetrailistheroutefromGlacierGorgeJunctiontoAlbertaFalls(seep.48)atreatinitself,butthereissomuchmoretocome.Soonafterleavingthefalls,thetrailclimbsmoderatelyalongahillsideaboveGlacierBrook,thensnakesupwardmoresteeplytothejunctionoftrailsleadingtoLochVale,Haiyaha,andMills.Hereyoutakethebranchtotheleft(south).ThepathsooncrossesabridgeatIcyBrookaboutahalf-milefromthelake,andtheascentbecomessteeper.Severalswitchbacksleadfromspruceandfirforestontoenormousslabsofgranite,theirfissuresandabutmentshoardingenoughsoiltonurturedwarfgardensofsubalpinefir,limberpine,ground-huggingjuniper,yellow-floweringpotentilla,andanassortmentofhummockyalpineplantsstuddedwithbloomthroughoutmostofthesummer.
Thetraillevelsoffatthelake'soutlettoGlacierCreek,thestreamdrawnoutfromanextensionofMillsLakeflowinglazilythroughagorgeofmassivegraniteboulders.Hereandtherearockyislandrisesfromthewater,decoratedwithgrasses,sedges,willowsandanoccasionalfir.
AshortwalktakesyoutothenortheastshoreofMills,andpresentsalandscapeofsuchgrandeurthateventhemagnificentsceneryencounteredontheapproachisnotlikelytolessentheimpact.
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Thelakeisclosetotimberlineyetalpinefir,limberpine,juniper,andotherconifersthrivealongitsshores.Thetreesarenotlarge,buttheyaredenselyfoliagedandgroupedintotightlyknitstands.Moistanddryareasarejuxtaposedonthebanks,sothatonecanfindfernsandbluechimingbellwithinafewstepsofsaxafrage,erigeron,andsedum.
Insomeplacestheforestreachestothewater'sedge;inothers,rockledgesdefinetheshoreandintrudeintothelake.It'sanirresistibleinvitationtostayawhileandtakeinasmuchofthesceneaspossible.
Acrossthelake,thenorthwestshorelineisdefinedbymassivegraniteblocksstackedtoasheerescarpmentrisingsome40feetabovethewater.Toweringinthebackground,fromsoutheasttosouthwest,arethepeaksofLongs,ChiefsHead,McHenrys,andThatchtopmountains.
TheMillsLakeTrailcontinuesalongtheeasternshore,leavingbedrockformoreboggyterrain.AtthesouthendofMillsandcontiguouswithitisJewelLakewhatdivisionthereisbetweenthetwoisduetotheindustryofbeavers.Unlikethehard-edgedcontoursofMills,theshoresofJewelaremarshyandnotclearlydefined.Itlacksthegrandnessofitscompanion,butthedelicategrassesonitsperimetergiveitagentle,impressionisticcharacterthatcomplementsMillshard-edgedandruggedaspect.
EscarpmentatthemouthofMillsLake
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Erraticatlakeside
Thosewhocanpullthemselvesawayfromthisareahaveseveraloptions:onwardanother2.2mi.toBlackLake(seep.56);backtothetrailjunctionforahiketoTheLochorHaiyaha;orsimplyreturntoGlacierGorgeJunction,maybewithastopatAlbertaFalls.Choosingthebestamongthebestisnevereasy.
MillsLakeinWinter
ThewinterroutetoMillsandTheLochbranchesofftotheright(south)fromtheAlbertaFallsTrailatthesecondwoodenbridgeclosetothestartingpoint.Apacktrailinsummer,it'smoredirectbutsteepernotdifficultforthesnowshoerbutachallengetotheintermediateskier.It'saninterestingandvariedroute,windinginandoutofpineforests,aspenstands,betweenrockoutcroppings,andfinallytoajunctionoftrailsleadingtoHaiyaha,Mills,TheLoch,andAlbertaFalls.Theorientationofthesignsandtheirinscriptionsissomewhatconfusingandoneshouldtakeamomenttoreadthemall.
ThepathtoMillsLakeandTheLochsoonpassesahitchingpostforhorsesandcontinuestoawoodenbridgewhereitsplitslefttoMillsandrighttoTheLoch.
PastthispointthepathtoMillsbecomessteeper,butsoonrewardsthewintervisitorwithsomemajesticviewsofthesurroundingmoun-
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tains;whilehereandthere,ontherockyridgessidingthetrail,contortedlimberpinesbearwitnesstothealtitudeandwind.
Then,walkingonthefrozensurfaceofGlacierCreek,youenteracanyonreservedforthewinterhiker-acanyonofstarkbeautywithblackwallsformedfrompreciselyabuttingboulders.Thisisoneofthemostimpressivefeaturesofthehike.Butthere'smore,forsoonthecanyonopensupontoMillsLakeitself,itsfrozenvastnesscradledinthesurroundingmountains.Here,inmidwinteratnearly10,000feet,itcanbebitterlycold,andicywindsareoftentunneledthroughthemountainpassesandaccelerateacrossthefrozenlakewithnumbingferocity.Atsuchtimes,fewwillstaylong,butit'sanexperiencethatwillbelong-remembered.
ApproachingMillsLakeoverGlacierCreekonsnowshoes
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BlackLake
Trailhead(1): GlacierGorgeJunction
Distanceoneway: 4.7milesAltitudegain: 1,390feetElevationatdestination: 10,620feet
ThehiketoBlackLakeisa2-milecontinuationofthetrailtoMillsLake,goingpastJewelLakeandthenfollowingGlacierCreekupstream,attimesnearenoughtocatchsomespray,sometimesfarenoughtohearonlytherushingwater.Thestreamsidesceneryalongthetrailissuperb,andattrail'sendisthatextraordinary,mountain-backed,blacktarn.
Beingsoclosetothecreekandlakes,itisnotsurprisingthatthepathismarshyinspots,andboardwalkshavebeenconstructedoverthewetteststretchesmoreconvenient,lessobtrusive,andlessdamagingthanafootpathwornthroughwater-loggedsoil.Butdon'texpectthisareatobedreary.Forassoonasthesnowmelts,yellowglobeflowerandwhitemarshmarigoldcarpettheground,andallsortsofothermoisturelovingplantsspringuptomaketheplaceagarden.
Thetrailcontinuesthroughforestsofpineandfir,nowandthencrossinghugeslabsofgranite.Fissuresintherocknurtureminiaturegardensofmosses,sedges,andwildflowers;thelargercrackssupportentirelandscapescompletewithdwarfedtreesandshrubs.ThenthetrailreturnstoGlacierCreek,whiletheforestopensforaviewofStormPeaktotheeast,andacrosstherivertothewest,RibbonFallsdividesandrebraidsitselfagainandagainasitmakesitswaydowntothemeadow.Itwouldbeaninterestingfeaturetoseeatcloserange,butthereisnopaththatIknowofthatleadstoit,andtheareaisverymarshy.
Beyondthispointthetrailbecomesconsiderablysteeper,theforestmoresparse,andthetreeslesstall.Someofthefinestriversceneryonthehikeiswithinthefinal0.5milesofthelake.EveninlateJunethissectionoftrailmaybeunder5feetofsnow,andthelakeitselfislikelytobehalf-coveredwithice.Abitofboulder-hoppingwillgetyouupstreamtotheshore.Alternatively,youcancrossthecreekandscrambleuptoarockyperch8feetormoreabovethelake.EitheroptionofferssuperbviewsofMcHenrysPeakanditsblackreflectioninthewaterjustasthelake'snamesuggests.It'sasceneofstarkanddesolatebeautyaptrewardforahikeofnearlyfivemiles.
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GlacierCreekbeyondMillsLake
Lunchatlakeside
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TheLoch
Trailhead(1): GlacierGorgeJunction
Distanceoneway: 2.7milesAltitudegain: 940feetElevationatdestination:
10,180feet
TheLochisoneofthemostpopulardestinationsintheparkalakerenownedforitsbeautyandmajesticsetting,andthetrailtoitoffersafullmeasureofmagnificentandvariedscenery.
BeginningatGlacierGorgeJunction,therouteisthesameasthatforMillsLakeuntilaboutthe2milemark(seep.51),soonegetstoenjoyGlacierCreek,AlbertaFalls,andtheGlacierKnobsalongtheway.Inrapidsuccessionthetrailsplitstwice:first,abranchtotheright(west)leadstoLakeHaiyaha1mileaway;thenatrailbranchesofftotheleft(south)andheadsforMillsLake0.5milesaway.
ThebranchtoTheLochtravelsalongsideandaboveIcyBrook.Atthestartofasharpswitchbackthereisanoverlookwhichoffersaviewofthebrookandaseriesofsmallwaterfallstumblingsteeplydownthe
Autumngrassesatlakeside
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TheLoch
canyon.LookingdownintothiscanyoninsummeritishardtoimaginethatinwinterthefrozenbrookistheusualroutesnowshoersandskierstravelinordertoreachTheLoch.
Thetrailsnakesupwardthroughahalfdozenorsomoderatelysteepswitchbacks,andsoondeliversyoutothenortheastendofTheLoch.Thisfirstviewisamongthefinest.Framingthelakebehinditsfarshorestandsanhonorguardoftoweringpeaks:TaylorandPowell,astridetheContinentalDivide.TaylorPeaksportsaglacieronitssoutheastflank,andAndrewsGlaciercanalsobeseenfromsomeviewpoints.Arockypeninsulaintrudeshundredsoffeetintothelake,andisapopularplacetostopforarestandasnack.ThesoutheastshoreofthelakerisestoaformidableescarpmentknownasTheCathedralWallachallengetorockclimberswhoareoftenseentestingtheirskillshere.Theentiresettingisatoncesereneandexciting,gentleandmajestic.
Continuingalongthepathasitparallelsthenorthandwestshores,therearemanyspotswherethehikerisinvitedtogodowntothewater'sedge,orclimbarockyoutcropforaview.Oftenthesurroundingpeaksfunnelbreezesdowntheirslopesandacrossthe
lake,animatingitssurfaceinabrilliantshimmer.Givenawarmday,thesebreezesarewelcomeandrefreshing,butcanbemorethanbracingduringwinter.
Thereismorethanenoughheretowarrantspendingtheentireday,butthosewantingtocontinuecangoontoTimberlineFalls,LakeofGlass,andSkyPond(seep.61).Alternatively,goingbacktothetrail
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WinterstormatTheLoch
junctiongivesthechoiceofheadinguptoMillsLakeorHaiyaha(seep.51orp.72).Buteventhosereturningtothetrailheadwillhaveexperiencedsomeofthefinestsceneryinthepark.
GettingThereinWinter
ThewintertrailtoTheLochsharesitsinitialportionwiththewintertrailtoMillsasummerhorseroutethatbranchesofftotherightoftheAlbertaFallsTrailatthesecondbridgeneartheGlacierGorgeTrailheadandascends,attimessteeply,toajunctionoftrailsleadingtoHaiyaha,Mills,andTheLoch.
ThepathtoTheLochandMillspassesatriangularhitchingrailandthendividestheleft-handroutegoingontoMills,therighttoTheLoch.
NextthetrailentersthestreambedofIcyBrook,andthefrozenstreamitselfbecomesthepath.Asitascendsmoreandmoresteeply,theblackwallsofthecanyonrisehigheraboveitandinclinemorepercipitouslyuntiloneofthewallstiltspastverticalandjutsoutoverthetrail.Atthetopoftheascentyouleavethecanyon,andfindyourselfatthenortheastcornerofthelake,CathedralWallonyour
leftanunbeatableentrancetoanunbeatablesetting.Thisspectacularapproachisaspecialtreatreservedforthewintertravelerduringtheotherseasons,IcyBrookcascadesthroughthecanyon,appropriatingthewintertrail.
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TimberlineFalls,LakeofGlass,andSkyPond
Trailhead(1): GlacierGorgeJunction
Distance: 4miles;4.2miles;and4.6milesrespectivelyAltitudegain: 1,420feet;1,580feet;and1,660feet
respectivelyAltitudeatdestination:
10,660feet;10,820feet;and10,900feetrespectively
Herearethreehighlydistinctiveandscenicgoals,allwithin0.6milesofeachother.Eachaloneisworthatriptothehighcountry,butthishikeoffersallthreeplusavisittoAlbertaFallsandTheLoch.Duringmostofthesummer,TimberlineFallsisadelicatemacrameofstreamsratherthanaplumetingtorrent;whileeachofthetwolakesinitsownwayexemplifiesthefiercebeautyofthealpineregion.
TheroutebeginswiththehiketoTheLoch(seep.58),andcontinuesalongtheshoreofthelaketoleaveitatthenorthwestend.ThepathfollowsIcyBrookupstreamthroughconiferousforest,theconifersjoinedbywillow,alder,elderberry,andriverbirchnearthestream.Connoisseursofstreamsidesceneryaresuretobeimpressedbythissectionofthetrail.
Lessthan1milefromTheLochthetrailsendsabranchofftotheright,headingwesttoAndrewsGlacier.WithSkyPondthegoal,ignorethebranchandcontinueonthemainpath,crossingseveralsmallstreamswhichhelptodefineacoolandshadynookornamentedwithmosses,boggrasses,andavarietyofothermoisture-lovingplants.
Withinahalfmileorsotheforestthinsandgiveswaytolush,marshymeadows.TimberlineFallsisanotherhalfmileupthetrail,andlookingaheadyoucanseeabitofthefallsandthemistitgenerates.
Thepathbecomessteeperandleavesthetreesaltogether,risingabovethemeadowsontoatalusslope.Followthered-flaggedpoleswhichmarktheindistincttrail.Takecareofyourfootingsomeoftherocksareunstableandsomemaybewetandslippery.
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TimberlineFalls
TimberlineFalls
ThesteepbutshortascentuptheslopedeliversyoutothebaseofTimberlineFallsand,lookingback,asuperbviewofTheLochsome270feetbelowand1.3milesaway.TimberlineFallsisnotparticularlyhighorfull,butitdoeshaveadelicatebeautythatisinstrikingcontrasttoitsstarksurroundings.It'sabranchingfall,cascadingdownablackgranitewallintoawide,shallow,cobble-filledcatchbasin,andthendiffuselydrainingawaydownhillthroughdozensofankle-deeprivulets.It'simpossibletoforegosomeboulderhoppingintherunoffatthebaseofthefalls,butthereisstillmuchmoretosee.
LakeofGlass
LakeofGlassisperchedabovethefalls,setbackafewhundredfeetfromtherimofthecliff.It'stherunofffromthelakethatfeedsthefalls.Buthowdoyougetuptoit?Therouteisoneofthepark'sbetterkeptsecretsunmarked,inconspicuous,andatfirstglanceunlikely.It'stotherightofthefallsasyoufacethem,andclosebyinfact,someoftherunoffsometimesstreamsdowntheveryrouteyouascend,makingthebouldersyouuseasstairswetandslippery.Inafewplacesthe
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LakeofGlass
initialfifteenfeetbeingthemostchallengingtheledgesarebarelyaswideasaboot,andthehandholdsarenonetoosecure.Althoughtheclimbtotheledgetakesonlyafewminutes,youwillwanttochooseyourstepscarefullyandwatchyourfooting.
Andwhenyoureachtheledge,there'stheLakeofGlassmountainbacked,andnestledinacirquecarvedoutofgranite.Thegraniterisestomassiveoutcroppings,bareinsomeplaces,butinothershavingenoughseamsandpocketsofdirttosupportadwarfforestofsubalpinefir,thetreesbarely3feettall,wind-torturedandtwistedtothecontoursoftherock.It'saspectacularscene.
Asclearasthelakeis,itisnomoreglasslikethanmanyothers;andmoreoftenthannot,windrakesitssurface,substitutingscintillatingmovementforglassystillness.Scramblingovertheledgesadjacenttothelakeisfuninitself.Insomeplacestherockrisestoa15feetclifftheperfectplacetoseekshelterfromthewind,enjoylunch,andrelax.
TocontinueontoSkyPond,lessthan0.5mi.away,proceedcounterclockwisearoundLakeofGlass,followingthecairnsupagraniteledgeandthendownagaintotheshoreofthelake.Thetrailhugstheshoreforawhile,penetratingthroughadenseandtangled
elfinforestofsubalpinefir.Soonthepathisblockedbyahugeboulder.Scrambleoveritstopandpickupthetrailontheotherside.Fiftyfeetfurtheronyouencounterwhatseemstobeamoresignificantobstaclealargerock
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UnnamedwaterfallnearSkyPond
outcroppingwithprecipitoussides.However,justbeforereachingtherock,thetrailveerssharplyawayfromthelakeforafewpacesandthensharplyswitchesbacktoaledgeonthesideoftherock,narrowingtonexttonothingforahalf-dozenstepsorso.
FromthispointtoSkyPondthehikeisaneasystroll.Thetrailisclearlydefinedandwelllaidoutwithflatsteppingstonesitseemsmorelikeagardenpaththananabove-timberlinetrailthroughawildernessarea.Theroutepassesthroughanalpinemeadow,almostdevoidoftrees,butlushingrasses,studdedhereandtherewithshrubbywillows.Insomeplacesthereareboulderssurroundedbysmallreflectingponds;extensivepatchesofthegreenestmossgrowwhereshadedbythestone.
AfewhundredfeetfromtheSkyPond,youwillseeasmallthreadwaterfalloffthetrailtotheleft(east).Ittumblesoveraledgeabout15feethigh.ThefallsareframedbyshrubberythatsetsitofffromthebarrenflanksofThatchtopMountainbehindit.Itsdelicatebeautyandmodestproportionsseemmagicallyoutofplaceinthisheroic
landscape.Duringmostofthedaythewaterfallisdramaticallylitbuteveninshadeit'sagem.
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SkyPond
AhundredstepsorsofromthisunnamedwaterfallbringsyoutotheshoreofSkyPonddesolateandmagnificent.PowellPeakandTaylorPeakstandoverthelake(thefirstsoutheastofthesecond),theirflanksrisingsteeplyfromthewater,alltalus,scree,andsmoothgranite,leavingonlythenarrowapproachtoprovidecloseaccesstotheshore.Drapedbetweenthetwopeaks,itswhitenessinhighcontrasttothedarkstone,isTaylorGlacier.Asisexpectedatthesehighalpinelakes,thewindisfierceandnearlyconstant;andasittearsacrossthewateronasunnydayitagitatesthesurfacetoaglitterthatconfusesfireandice.It'sasceneofstarkdramatheperfectclimaxtothehike.
Theviewscomingdownonthereturntripareevenmorespectacularthanthoseseenontheascent.TherearepanoramicviewsofLakeofGlass,TheLoch,andLochValebelow;and,withtheexceptionoftheshortbutsteepclimbnearTimberlineFalls,thedescentiseasyenoughtofreeourattentionfortheenjoymentofitall.
SkyPond
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Page67
NORTHEASTTrailsFromBearLake13BearLake,DreamLake,EmeraldLake14LakeHaiyaha15OdessaLake16HallettPeak17BierstadtLake
Iftheparkcanbesaidtohaveacentralhub,BearLakeisit.Severalofthemostpopularhikesbeginherehikestomountainsummitsandhikestolakeshikesthattakeyoutosomeofthefinestsceneryinthepark.Hereyouwillfindtrailsthatareshortandeasy,andtrailsthatarelongandstrenuousthatleadfromdenseforesttoopentundraabovetreeline.
Toreachtheparkinglot,takeBearLakeRoadsouthfromtheBeaverMeadowsentrancefor9miles.Ifthelotisfull,alikelyeventifyouarrivemidmorningonasummerweekend,parkintheshuttlebusparkinglot,4.8milesfromtheBeaverMeadowsentranceandtakethebustoBearLake.
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BearLake,DreamLake,andEmeraldLake
Trailhead(1): BearLake
Distanceoneway:1.
1milestoDreamLake;1.8milestoEmeraldLake
Altitudegain: 430feettoDreamLake;600feettoEmeraldLake
ElevationatDestination:
9,900feetatDreamLake;10,080feetatEmeraldLake
BearLake,DreamLake,andEmeraldLakearethreeofthemostfamousattractionsintheparknotsurprising,consideringtheirbeautyandmagnificentsurroundings.Althoughtheysharesomeofthesamebackgroundfeatures,theyvaryincharacterfromlushandserene,tostarkandrugged.Thesethreelakesareconnectedbyaneasytrailthattakesyouthroughpleasantforestandalongdelightfulstreams.Nowonderthishikeisoneofthemostpopularinthepark.
BearLake
Althoughonlyafewhundredfeetfromitsparkinglot,BearLakeisascenictreasure.BehinditssouthwestshorerisestheangularhulkofHallettPeak;tothesouthandabiteastrisesLongsPeak.Nolakehasamoreimpressivebackdrop.Aninformative,self-guiding,0.5-milenaturetrailgoescompletelyaroundthelake,andseveralbenchesandplatformsinviteyoutolingerforalongerlook.
NymphLake
ThetrailtoDreamandEmeraldlakesleavesBearLakeandproceedsthroughpineforestfor0.5milestoNymphLakeajoyinitsownright.Inmidsummer,thedeepbluewaterisstuddedwithyellowpondlilies.FlattopMountainandHallettPeakframethelakeontheapproach,whileafewstepslaterit'sLongsPeakthatagaindominatesthe
background.
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BearLake
LeavingNymphLake,thepathreturnstotheforest,everysooftencrossingsomeminorstreamormarshyarearepletewithwildflowers.Nearthe0.9-milemark,attherockyelbowofasharpandsteepswitchback,thereisanopportunitytostepoutontothebouldersalongsideasmallcascadeofTyndallCreek.It'salikelyspottospyAmericandippers(ouzels)thosedapper,gray,lark-sizedbirdswiththecomical,bobbingmotions,thatcavortaroundrushingwater,oftendisappearingbehindcascades.Thetrailcontinuesthroughafewmoreswitchbacks,andthenthereitisDreamLake.
DreamLake
Thelakedeservesitsnameanditsfameit'smagnificent.HallettandFlattoppeaksformthebackdrop,hereevenmoreprominentandimposingthanwhenseenfromBearLake.Theshoreisvariedandirregularinsomeplacesit'sknottedintorockyescarpments,inothersitrisessmoothlyfromthewatertotheforest'sedge.Atthemidpointofthenorthshore,aruggedpeninsulajutsoutintothelake,itsflanks
ornamentedbygnome-likelimberpines.Butthosegrowingoutoftherockonthenortheastshorearethemostpicturesqueofallancientsofenormousgirth,theirrootsgrippingtherockliketalons,theytwist
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NymphLake;LongsPeakisseeninthebackgroundtotheright
andleanoutoverthewaterstretchingthelawofgravitytothebreakingpoint.Thereisreasonenoughtostayheretheentireday,butmanygoontoLakeHaiyaha(seep.72)ortoEmeraldLake.
ThetrailtoEmeraldLakefollowsthenorthshoreofDreamLake,andthenclimbssteeplyoverrocksbeforelevelingout.Anothersteepandrockysectionfollows,thisoneclosetoTyndallCreek.Herethecreekhascutitswaythroughtherock.Yellowmonkeyflowers,sedges,andmanyothermoisture-lovingplantsdecoratetheminicanyon,luxuriatinginthesprayofthesmallcascades.It'saplacewhosebeautyfarexceedsitssize.
Fromherethetrailleadsthroughmixedforestwhereconifersanddeciduoustreesmingleamonggiganticboulders.Thenagainthetrailbecomesrockier,andafinalshortbutsteepstretchdeliversyoutoEmeraldLake.
EmeraldLake
Fromitsshorethelakeisusuallymoreonyxthanemerald,thesteelywaterreflectingtheblackflanksofHallettPeakandFlattopMountain.It'sastarklandscapetotallydifferentfromBearLake,andevenmoreruggedthanDreamLake.Thetrailleadsontobouldersthatdefinethenorthwestshore,andyoucanclimbhigherforabetterview.Therearenotrailsaroundtheremainderoftheshore,sincethemountainsrisesosteeplyfromthewater,butthisiswhatmakesthescenesoimposing.
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DreamLakeinWinter
EvenduringwintertheDreamLakeTraildrawsmorethanitsfairshareofvisitors,althoughduringthisseasonthesectionlinkingDreamtoEmeraldisnotrecommendedsinceseveralpartsposeasignificantavalanchehazard.
ThewinterroutefromDreamLaketoNymphLakeiseasybutoftenslickwithiceearlyintheseason.NymphLakeinwinterisafeaturelessexpanseoficeandsnow,butHallettPeak,FlattopMountain,andLongsPeak,seenfromthenorthandnortheastshores,areevenmoreimposingwithamantleofsnow.AtNymphthewintertraildivergesfromthatusedinsummer,leadingclockwisearoundthesouthernshoreofthelake,ratherthancounterclockwise.Thenitclimbssteeplytoaridgeoverlookingacanyonguardedhereandtherebymassiveoutcroppingsofrock,bareandblackagainstthesnow.Here,beginningskierswillfindthegoingroughandevensnowshoerswillhavetofocusattentionalternatelybetweentheirfootingandthemagnificentscenery.
Inthebackground,toweringoverthecanyonandthesurroundingvalleys,aresomeofthehighestpeaksinthepark,andinashortwhile,thetrailaffordsagrandviewofLongsPeaktotheleft(southeast).AtthispointyoucrossTyndallCreek.Althoughthesurfaceisfrozensolidandcoveredwithdeepsnow,theflowofwaterisusuallyaudibleunderfoot.Thenafewmorestepsbringsyoutoariseoverlookingthelakeandanunsurpassedlandscape.
EmeraldLakebelowthesaddlebetweenHallettPeakandFlattopMountain
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LakeHaiyaha
Trailhead(1): BearLake
Distanceoneway: 2.1milesAltitudegain: 750feetElevationatdestination: 10,220feet
Eveninaregionrenownedforthevarietyandsplendorofitslakes,Haiyahastandsoutassomethingdifferent.ItsIndianname,translated'BigRocks',onlyhintsatitsruggednessandindividuality.InthatcircleofgrandlakesBear,Nymph,Dream,Haiyaha,TheLoch,andMillsnoneismoreimposingthanHaiyaha.
ThepreferredroutebeginsatBearLakeandfollowsthetrailtoDreamLake(seep.68).JustbeforereachingDreamLake,thetrailtoLakeHaiyahabranchesleft(south)andcrossesabridge.ThenthetrailleadstotheeastflankofHallettPeakandbeginstoascend,somewhatsteeplyatfirst.Soon,afteraswitchback,itlevelsouttoalongtraversewhichprovidessuperbviewsofBearandNymphlakesinthevalleybelow,andLongsPeaktothesoutheast.
Thetraildescendsgraduallytoastream,crossesitbyabridge,andbeginsagradualascentthroughpineforesttothelake,aboutaquarterofamileaway.
Nownearingtimberline,thelandscapebeginstoharden.Onlythetreesofsternerstuffcansurvivetheeight-month-longwinterofgalewindsandheavysnows.SomeofthemostancientandpicturesquetreesintheparkarefoundontheshoresofHaiyaha.Burledandburly-boledlimberpinesbentnearlyhorizontaldigtheirtalon-likerootsintotherockcrevicesinsearchofaholdfastandnourishment.Enormousblocksofcleavedandquarriedstonearescatteredoverthelandscapelikesomemetropolisinruins.Severalsmallpools,reflectingthesky
andthemassivebouldersaroundthem,anticipateHaiyaha.Scamperingovertherocksbringsyoutotheledgesabovethelake.HallettPeakrisesupfromtheoppositeshoretoenhancethegrandeurofthesetting.
Onecaneasilyspendthedayscamperingovertherocks,exploringtheshorelineandnearbypools.Butthosewantingtoextendthehikecanbacktrackaquarter-miletothetrailjunction,andcontinueontoTheLoch,Mills,AlbertaFalls,andthentoGlacierGorgeJunction;orbacktracktoBearLake.
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LongsPeakfromtheLakeHaiyahaTrail
OneofseveralpoolsneartheshoreofLakeHaiyaha
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Ancientlimberpineatlakeside
HaiyahainWinter
Haiyahainwinter?Yes,it'sstillthere,butaccessingitisadifferentmatter.UnlikeMillsLakeandTheLoch,therearenorecommendedwinterroutes;indeed,therearenoreliablewinterroutesatall.Assnowispiledonsnow,astemperatureandpressurechangethegranularcharacterandweakentheadhesionbetweenlayers,thetrailpresentsanevergreateravalanchehazard.
AccessfromDreamLake,theusualsummerroute,involvesswitchbacksandtraversesontheeastflankofHallett,whichmanagestoaccruemorethanitsfairshareofsnowinspiteofitssteepness.Nevertheless,thisisthesafestroute,andthesafesttimetotravelitthroughsnowisduringlateautumnorearlywinter,whentheavalanchedangerisminimal.Eventhen,cautionisadvised.
InwinterLakeHaiyahaandtheadjoiningpoolsareencasedinice,andtheiceismantledwithathickblanketofsnow.Althoughsomeofthelake'suniquegeometryishidden,theancientpinesarestillthere,standingguardoverthefrozenlandscapeamongthegiantsnow-cappedboulders.Evenundersnowit'sadramaticscene.
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OdessaLake
Trailhead(1): BearLakeor:FernLakeTrailhead(seep.90)
Distanceoneway: 4.1milesfromBearLake;4.4milesfromtheFernLakeTrailhead
TrailheadAltitudegain:
1,215feetfromBearLake;1,865feetfromtheFernLakeTrailhead
Elevationatdestination:
10,020feet
OdessaLakeisanothermagnificentfeatureoftheBearLakeregion,rivalingNymph,Dream,Haiyaha,Mills,andTheLochinthemajestyofitssetting.Walkingtothelaketakesyouthroughavarietyoflandscapes,fromdenseforesttoopentundra.Andsincethetrailismorethan4mileslong,thehikeoffersmoresolitudethanmanyoftheothersinthisregionanadvantageforenjoyingthetrail'smanyamenities.
TherearetwoapproachestoOdessaLake:a4.1-mileroutefromBearLake,anda4.5-mileroutefromtheFernLakeTrailhead.ThelongerrouteisalsosteeperbutfortheextraeffortyougetthepleasureofseeingFernCreek,ThePool,FernFalls,andFernLakeitselfalongtheway.TheFernLakeTrailheadparkingareaissmallsoplantoarriveearly.
Ontheotherhand,theapproachtoOdessaLakefromBearLakeisfarmoredramatic.Moreover,thedistanceisshorter,andthealtitudegainisonly1,200feetalthoughthisisabitmisleading,sinceyoufirstclimbto10,675feetbeforedescendingsomewhatsteeplytothelakeat10,020feet.
TheinitialportionofthetrailcoincideswiththeroutetoFlattopMountainandHallettPeak(seep.78),thebranchpointoccurringjustafteragenerous0.5-milestretchofpaththroughamarvelousgroveofaspen.Seeingthisstandinfallcolorisguaranteedtopropelyouskippingandsingingalongthetrail.
Pasttheaspen,thetrailclimbsgentlythroughadenseandshadyconiferous
Pasttheaspen,thetrailclimbsgentlythroughadenseandshadyconiferousforestofspruce,pine,andfir.Afterabout2.5miles,theforestyieldstotalusandtundra,andopenstoextraordinaryviewsofFlattopandNotchtopmountains.Asharp,right-handturn(tothenorth)nearthepath'shighestpointyieldsthefirstviewofOdessaLake,about0.3milesawayandhundredsoffeetbelowinOdessaGorge,ablue-greenwelcomematatthebaseoftheLittleMatterhorn.Asyoudescend,theforestobscuresthelake,butoccasionallyanopeningthroughthetreesoffersatantalizingviewofthewater.
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OdessaLake
AspenandLongsPeaknearthestartoftheOdessaLakeTrail
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Thepathdowntotheshoreleavesthemaintrailafewhundredyardspastthelake,descendstoabridgewhichcrossesFernCreek,thenfollowsthecreekbacktoitssource.Thefirstviewofthelakefromtheshoreisasspectacularasanyother.NotchtopMountaintowersabovethelaketothesouth;tothesouthwest,standstheLittleMatterhorn,itsbroadconeshapecappedbyaclusterofupward-pointingpylons.
FromthesourceofFernCreek,afainttrailleadscounterclockwisealongtheshoreofthelake,moreorlessincorporatingsomebouldersandrockyoutcropsalongtheway.Itisfairlyeasytoscrambleuptheserocksandfindacozyspotforlunch,rest,andagoodviewofthelake.
Ifyoucan'tdecidewhichroutetotaketoOdessaLake,consideraone-waytourusingatwo-carshuttle.Leaveonecaratonetrailheadanddrivetotheothertostartthehike.Ofthetwopossibilities,leavingonecarattheFernLakeTrailheadandstartingthehikeatBearLakehasseveraladvantages:thesmallFernLakeparkingareaislikelytobefilledearlierintheday,andtheBearLakeTrailheadis640feethigherthantheFernLakeTrailhead.Thetrailhead-to-trailheaddistanceis8.5mileslong,anditishardtofindamorescenichikeofthatdistance.
CrossingatalusslopetowardNotchtopMountain
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HallettPeak
Trailhead(1): BearLake
Distanceoneway: 5.0milesAltitudegain: 3,238feetElevationatdestination: 12,713feet
HallettPeakisoneofthemostdistinctivelandmarksintheparkprominentbysize,form,andlocation.It'sthebackdropagainstwhichyoufirstseeBearLakeandDreamLake,andit'sanotablefeatureoftheBierstadtLakeTrail.Thehiketakesyouupthroughthreeclimatezones,crossesoverFlattopMountain,traversestheridgesupportingTyndallGlacier,andthenascendstothesummitofHallettPeak.Ifthissuggestsvariety,youwon'tbedisappointed.Therearegrandviewsthroughoutthehike,withthebestviewofallawaitingyouatthetop.
Atthestartofthehike,thetrailleavesthenorthshoreofBearLakeandascendsthroughaboulder-strewnaspengrove.Thetreetrunksinthisstandareparticularlywhite,andcontrastsharplyagainstgray-blackboulders.Morninglightilluminatesthetrees,stagingashowpieceineveryseason.
Afterathirdofamile,atthejunctionwithatrailtoBierstadtLake,thetrailanglesleft(west)andcontinuesitsmoderateclimbthroughtheaspengrove.Thegroveendsnearthesecondtrailjunctiontheroutetotheright(northwest)leadstoOdessaLakeandFernLake,theonetotheleft(southwest)leadstothepresentgoal,HallettPeakbywayofFlattopMountain.Thepathentersconiferousforestdominatedbyspruceandfir.Thetreesarelarge,andthepathwell-shaded.Grouseberry,hollygrape,andbearberrycarpetthefloor.Cliffjamesiaandmountainmapleenjoytheareasofdappledsunlightwheretheforestcanopyismoresparse.
Abroadbutshallowgorgestrewnwithenormousbouldersappearstotherightofthetrail.Thegorgeisdryinsummerbutevokesimagesofatorrentialrivercrashingtothevalleybelow.Thepathveersawayfromthegorgeinaswitchback,andbysuccessiveswitchbacksclimbssteadilyupward.
QuitesuddenlythetrailemergesataclearingwithaspectacularviewtheDreamLakeoverlook.Justasspectacularistheviewtothewestthroughalatticeoftrees:HallettPeakanditslessimposingcompanionFlattopMountain,thetwospannedbythewhitedraperyofTyndallGlacier.
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HallettPeakfromtheDreamLakeoverlook
Thepathcontinuesonamoderategradethroughconiferousforestthetrees,nowprimarilysubalpinefir,becomingshorterandstouter.Furtheron,theforestbreaksintodisjointstandsofdwarftrees,eachaLilliputiangardenbarelyheadhigh.Soonthetreesareonlykneehigh,cowedbythegalestocreepalongtheground.TheneventhefirsdisappeartimberlineandspectacularviewsofLongs,McHenrys,Powell,andTaylorpeaksopenuptothesouth.
Densestandsofshrubbywillow,twofeethigh,appearinisolatedpatches.It'ssurprisingtofindwillowsuphereawayfromanylakeorriver,butseveralalpinespeciesarecommoninthepark,andatthisaltitudethelongwintersnowfallandfrequentsummerrainsprovidewaterenough.Lateinsummerthewillowscolorinhuesoftawnyrusset;butthey'reattheirbestinearlysummer,denselydecked-outintheirfurry,silverycatkins.Potentillasarealsocommonatthisaltitude,reliablysportingtheirbuttercup-likeblossomsfromlatespringtoearlyfall.
Continuingthehike,wesoonreachanoverlook1,300feetdown,
nearlyasastonefalls,isEmeraldLake.Withitsdeepgreencolorandwind-blownsurface-sparkle,itlookslikeitsnamesakegem,andit'ssetlikeagemamongthesurroundingdarkgraymountains.Takenoticeof
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EmeraldLakefromtheFlattopMountainTrail
theclifftotheright(west)withitsinterestingstriationsandthedwarfedsubalpinefirsclingingtoitsshearface.
NearlyatthetopofFlattop,flatasitis,thetrailisstillgentlyascending.However,itisflatenoughforbasinsofwatertocollecthereandthere,andthoughtreeless,thereareallsortsofdwarfplantscarpetingthescree,arockgardenofalpinejewels:gentian,anderigeron,andsaxifrage,andavenshunkeringaboutthebouldersforwarmthandprotectionfromthewind,lookinglikehummocksofmossuntiltheycoverthemselveswithmassesofbloom.
ThehikecontinuesacrossFlattopwithmanyremarkableviewsalongthewayviewsoflake-studdedvalleysandridgeafterridgeofmountains.LongsPeakrisestothesoutheast,unmistakablewithitscubicalcrownofgraniteanditsnorthflankornamentedbyanextraordinaryridgeofpinnaclescalledTheKeyboardoftheWinds.HallettPeakcomesintoviewnow,aheadandtotheleft(southeast),risinganother400feet.Fromhereitisnearlyaperfectconeblackandfeatureless.
TheFlattopplateauswingsaroundcounterclockwisetogiveaccesstoHallettPeak,andinthecrookoftheswing,theiceandsnowmantle
ofTyndallGlacierisplasteredtothenearlyverticalwall.Signswarnoftheextremehazardinvolvedintooclosealook.
Tothispointthetrailisfairlysmoothandsandy.Butnow,asyouskirttheglacierandbeginthefinalascenttothesummitofHallettPeak,
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CairnmarkingthesummitofHallettPeak
thepathdisintegratesintoajumbleofirregularchunksofsharp-edgedgraniteboulders.Cairnsmarktheway,buttherouteisdifficulttodistinguishfromthesurroundingrubblethatcomprisesthesummit.Thisisn'taneasystretch,butneitherisitverylongandsoonyouareatthetopofthemountain,clearlymarkedbyarightandproperminimountainofacairn,about6feethigh.
Theviewfromthesummitissuperb:TyndallGlacierandFlattop'stoptothenorth;GrandLake,ShadowMountainLake,andLakeGranbytothesouthwest;themanylakesandpeakstotheeast;andtothesoutheast,thetoweringhulkofLongs.You'resurroundedonallsidesbyspectacularscenerey,andittakessometimetotakeitallin.So,findasoftrock,sitdownandcatchyourbreath,havelunch,andenjoytheview.
MosthikersplantoreachthesummitofHallettbymidday,forinmostseasonsafternoonthunderstormscanbeexpectedtowellupnomatterhowcloudlessthemorningsky.Attheveryleast,slickwetrocksandslipperyportionsofthetrailwillrobyouoftheeasyandpleasantdescentsowellearnedonthewayup.Allowingthreehoursfortheascentshouldgiveyouenoughtime.
Forthoseunaccustomedtothealtitude,thismaynotbeatrivialhike;butaslowpacedeservingofthescenerywillminimizethedifficultywhilemaximizingthepleasure.
BierstadtLake
Trailhead(2): BierstadtLakeTrailheador(1):BearLake
Distanceoneway: 1.4milesfromtheBierstadtLakeTrailhead;1.6milesfromBearLake
Altitudegain: 566feetfromtheBierstadtLakeTrailhead;255feetfromBearLake
Elevationatdestination:
9,416feet
Thisisashortandeasytrailtoapleasantsubalpinelake.Theroutepassesthroughanextraordinarystandofaspen,andofferssweepingviewsofthesurroundingmountains.
TheparkinglotattheBierstadtLakeTrailheadisdirectlyofftheroadabouttwo-thirdsofthewayfromtheBeaverMeadowsentrancetoBearLake;thoughsmall,thelotusuallyhassomefreeslotsexceptduringthepeakofthesummerseasonandattheheightoftheaspengoldrush.
Thehikebeginsinadenseevergreenforest,butasthetrailascends,therearefewertrees,andthelandscapebeginstoopen.Withinthefirst
BierstadtLake
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HallettPeakfromtheBierstadtLakeTrail
half-mileyouaretreatedtoexceptionalviewsofLongsPeaktothesouth,themountainframedbetweenstandsofaspen.Thetrailcontinuestoclimbthroughlongswithbacks:theeast-headingstretchespresentaredhillsidespottedwithgraysage;thewest-headingstretchesoffersuperbviewsofHallettPeak,TyndallGlacier,andFlattopMountain.
Afteraboutamile,thetraildeliversyoutoahillsideofaspen,theirtrunksbonewhiteandcrooked,leaningoutovertheslope.Thestandhasanetherealquality,particularlyinthespringwhenthenewcropofleavesemergeslimegreenandtranslucent,flutteringintheslightestbreeze.Butinthefall,whenthealchemyofthefirstfrostscausetheentirehillsidetoeruptingoldenyellow,thetrailbecomesashowpiece.
Beyondthisgrovethepathlevelsoffandpassesthroughsparseforestwithinterestingmixturesofpine,aspen,andjuniper,enlivenedduringsummerbythebrightflowerspiresofgoldenbanner.Thentheforestbecomesmorehomogeneousaslodgepolepineassertsdominance.
Soonyouareatthelake.Coniferssurroundit,andtheshoreismarshy,itsoutlineblurredbysedgesinandoutofthewater.It'sa
gentlescenepresentedinsoftfocus.Toenjoythelakefully,explorethetrailthatleadsaroundit.ThereisadramaticviewofLongsPeakfromthenorthshore.
Onthewestsideofthelake,theshoretrailmeetstheMillCreekTrailandatrailtoBearLake.Thelatterisaslightlylongerroutethanthatdescribedherebutinvolveslessaltitudegain,andistheonepreferredbymanyskiers.
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Page85
NORTHEASTOtherThanGlacierGorgeorBearLake18CubLake19FernLake20GemLake21YpsilonLake22DeerMountain23OldUteTrailtoBeaverMeadows24Chapin,Chiquita,andYpsilonMountains
Thissectionoftheparkhasawidevarietyoflandscapes,andthetrailsdescribedherereflectthatvariety.Onetrailclimbstothesummitofamountainandoffersexcellentviewsalongthewayandfromthetop.Anotherisaone-wayhikethatstartsinthealpinetundra,passesthroughthesubalpinezone,andendsinamontanezonemeadow.AnotherleadsupthroughthecuriousrockformationsofLumpyRidgetoalakesetinastoneamphitheater.Theotherthreetrailsendatmountain-backedlakes.Onetrailtakesyoualongspectacularriverscenery;anotherleadsacrossflower-filledmeadows,whilethethirdofferssuperbviewsofmountainsandagorgetornopenbythefloodwatersofRoaringRiver.Toreachthenortheastcornerofthepark,takeU.S.34orU.S.36toEstesPark.Thetrailheadsarefarenoughaparttorequireseparateinstructionsonhowtoreachthemandthesewillbegivenunderthecorrespondinghikedescriptions.
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CubLake
Trailhead(1): CubLakeTrailhead
Distanceoneway: 2.3milesAltitudegain: 540feetElevationatdestination: 8,620feet
Amongtheshortandeasytrailsinthepark,thisisafavorite.Thishikeoffersmarvelousriverscenery,exceptionallyflowerymeadows,superbstandsofpineandaspen,andfeaturesaserenelybeautifullakebackedbymountainsatitsdestination.
ToreachthetrailheadfromtheBeaverMeadowsentrance,followtheBearLakeRoadsouthfor1.2miles;thenturnright(west)towardtheMoraineParkCampground.TheturnoffisclosetoasideroadtotheleftthatleadsuphilltotheMoraineParkVisitorCenter.After0.7milesturnleftandfollowthesignstoCubLakeandFernLake.
Thetrailheadparkinglothasfewspaces,andduringthepeakoftheseasonisusuallyfullbymidmorning.Ifyou'reclosedoutofthislot,youcancontinuealongtheroadtotheFernLakeparkingareanogreatdisaster,butthiswilladdabout1miletoeachdirectionifyouwalkbacktotheCubLakeTrailheadbythepathparallelingtheroad.Alternatively,takingtheFernLakeTrailtoThePoolandthentoCubLakewilladd1.7milestothetripineachdirectionanoptionthatofferssomelovelyriversideviewsattheexpenseofforegoingtheCubLakeTrailaltogetheritgetsyoutothelake,butit'snotafairtradeoff.Eventhisstrategyisnotfailsafe:althoughtheFernLakeparkingareaisconsiderablylarger,itisoftenfilledby10a.m.
Thetrailbeginswithasequenceofbridges,thelargestcrossingtheBigThompsonRiver.Totheright(west)thesceneisstagedbyadramaticbackdropofmountains,tothelefttherivermeanders
throughavalleyfilledwithgrassesandwildflowers.Marshyareasandsmallpondsbordertheriver;alder,shrubbywillows,andred-ozierdogwoodcoverthebanks.Cowparsnipwhatanuglynameforsuchaboldandbeautifulplantputsonashowformostofthesummerwithitshugemaplelikeleavesandshowyflatheadsofwhiteblossoms.Shootingstarsandlady-tressesorchidhaveamoredelicatebeauty.Althoughnotascommon,theytoocanbeeasilysearchedoutalongthebanks.
Thetrailthenleadsacrossabroadvalleycoveredwithgrasssportingfeatheryseedheadsandautumntintsofbeigeandbronzebymid-July.Themountainscreateadistantblue-purplebackdropforthenextactof
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CubLake
theflowershow:yarrow,black-eyedsusan,coneflower,blanketflower,bee'sbalm,monk'shood,erigeron,fireweed,campanula,anoccasionalbrilliantorangewoodlily,anddozensofotherflowerssparkcolorontothemeadows.Hugelichen-coverederraticsandrockoutcroppingscounterpointthesoftnessofthegrasses,whilegroupsofponderosapineadddramatothescene.
Gradually,thesmallstandsofpinegivewaytolargerones,andthesemergeintoanextensiveforest.Buthereandtherethepineisinterruptedbyfinestandsofaspenthatcolorreliablyeachfall.Manyoftheseglensarecarpetedbypteridiumferns,simultaneouslyboldandrefined,andthesetooarepaintedgoldbythechillofautumntheentirecolorschemesetoffbyblack-greenconifers,darkrock,shadowedhills,anddistantmountains.
Ashortandgentleclimbbringsyoutothelakeitself,borderedontwosidesbyaseaofundulatinggrass,rimmedbybouldersontheoppositeshore,andbackedtothewestbyStonesPeak.Wherethe
surfaceofthelakeisclearitreflectstheskyandmountains;elsewhereitispatchedwithyellowpond-lilly,thefloatingleavesstuddedhereandtherewithlarge,goblet-shapedgoldenblooms.
Thepathcontinuesalongthenorthshoreofthelake,ascendingtogiveafineoverviewbeforeenteringforestonthewaytoThePoolwhereitjoinstheFernLakeTrail.
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BigThompsonRiverneartrailhead
Aspen,oneofseveralspectacularstandsalongthistrail
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CubLakeinwinter
CubLakeinWinter
HikingtheCubLakeTrailinwinterbringsitsownspecialrewards.Fewtrailsoffersuchdramaticcontrasts:frozenrivershavetheglintofpewter;andthelong,sun-drenchedvalleynearthestartofthetrailisfilledwithfine-twiggedshrubbywillows,back-littoabronzyredhazeandsetagainstthedarkbackdropofshadowedmountains.Fartheron,theponderosapinesstandaloneorinsmallgroups,blackagainstthesnow.Fartherstillarethosewonderfulstandsofaspenthetreesside-litstilettoesofwhiteandpalegray-green,highlightedagainstthemountainsandaskyofdeeperhuethanatanyotherseason.Afewhundredyardsmorebringsyoutothelake,stillimposingagainstitsmountainbackdrop,evenasadesolateexpanseofgrayice.
Althoughthisisashortandeasytrail,thereareafewwinterannoyances.Partofthetrail,particularlytheinitialthird,isopentowindandisoftensnow-freeandrockysoskisandsnowshoeshavetobecarried.Ontheotherhand,somesectionsnearthebeginningareoftencoveredbysnowdrifts,andonehastotakecarenottolosethepath,particularlyonthewayback.Theextracautionisaminor
demand,consideringwhatthistrailhastooffer.
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FernFallsandFernLake
Trailhead(2): FernLakeTrailhead
Distanceoneway: 2.7miles(falls);3.8miles(lake)
Altitudegain: 650feet(falls);1,380feet(lake)Elevationatdestination:
8,800feet(falls);9,530feet(lake)
Thosepartialtowaterfeaturesinthelandscapewillfindthatthistrailhasitallsuperbriverscenery,interestingpools,animpressivewaterfall,andamagnificentsubalpinelakebackedbymountains.Addtothissomecuriousrockformations,extensiveferngardens,rarewildflowers,anddenseforestscarpetedwithgrouseberry,andit'seasytounderstandthepopularityofthishike.
ToreachthetrailheadfromtheBeaverMeadowsentrance,followtheroutetoCubLake(seep.86),butcontinueonforanadditionalmile.Again,thesizeoftheparkinglotdoesnotreflectthepopularityofthehike,anditmaybefilledbymidmorningduringthesummermonths.
Thetrailisfairlylevelforthefirstmileorso,closelyfollowingtheBigThompsonRiverupstream.Allsortsofmoisture-lovingplantsthrivealongthebanks.Besideselder,alder,cottonwood,andwillows,therearesuperbclumpsofmountainmapleandriverbirch,thelatterwithpolishedredstemsmorelikethatofacherrytreethanabirch.Andhereiswhereyoufindfernsinsuchabundanceastojustifythenameofthelake,thefalls,andthetrailitself.Pteridiumfernscoverthegroundbytheacreathree-seasontreat,butparticularlyspectacularwhenautumntintsthemgoldinconcertwiththemaple,birch,andalder.
About1milefromthetrailhead,thepathleadsthroughastrange
groupofbouldersArchRocksredincolor,standingonend,maybe30feethighbutwithabitofatilt.It'sastartlingformation,completelyincongruouswiththesurroundings.
ThePool
Anotherhalf-mileleadstoabridgethatcrossestheBigThompsonRiver.Herethetrailsplits;theleft(east-heading)branchgoesontoCubLake.Nearby,FernCreekandSpruceCreekjointheBigThompson,andthewaterflowsthroughabasinitcutforitselfdeepintherock.ThisisThePool.Youseeitfirstandmostcloselyfromthebridge;butthenthetrailclimbstoarockyledgethatgivesyouamoredramaticview.
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FernLakeinfrontofNotchtopMountainandLittleMatterhorn
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Thebeginningofthetrailfeaturesextensivestandsofferns
PassagethroughtheRedRocks
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FernFalls
LeavingThePool,thetrailbecomessteeper,andtheterrainmoreopen,butwithoccasionaljumblesofblocky,blackgraniteboulders.Whenyouagainentertheforest,it'spredominantlyconiferousmostlyfirandspruce.Then,after2.7miles,thetrailreachesFernFalls.It'sabitunkempt,clutteredwithenoughbouldersandfallentreestomakeitasmuchacascadesasafalls,emphasizingthepowerofrushingwater.
Closetothefalls,justoffthetrail,isagrottoshadyanddampwithalushgrowthofcowparsnipandgrassesonitsfloor.Theblackrockwalls,slickwithmoisture,supportahanginggardencompletewithmosses,ferns,andsedges.Thegrottoisasmallfeature,butwellworthacloserlookbeforegoingon.
FernLake
Thelastmileclimbssteadilythroughconiferousforest.Extensivepatchesofgrouseberrycarpetthefloorandcolorearlyinshadesofyellow,red,andorange,oftennicelysetoffbythesilverytrunksofdownedtrees.
Theapproachtothelakeismarshy,theshoresupportingsomefinestandsofelegantgrass.Arockoutcroppingsitshalfinandhalfoutofthewaterthere'sroomenoughforapartyoffour,butyouhavetoarriveearlyenoughtobepartofthatparty.Otherdryperchescanbefoundbygoingalongitseastshore.
FernCreekhasitsoutletontheeasternshorewhereabridgespanningthewetareascontinuesthetrailthatleadstoOdessaLake.Golden-twiggedwillowsandred-ozierdogwoodsbackthebridgeonallsides,givingthesceneanimpressionisticqualitytheeffectcounterpointedbytheruggedpeaksofLittleMatterhornandNotchtopMountainformingabackdroptothesouthwest.It'sadramaticcontrastthat
accountsforagreatdealofthelake'scharacterandappeal.
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GemLake
Trailhead(3):
GemLakeTrailhead.ExitofftheU.S.34BypassofEstesParkontoMacGregorAvenue,turnrightbeforeenteringMacGregorRanchandprocedeabout3/4miletoparkingareaonleft.
Distanceoneway:
2miles
Altitudegain:
1,090feet
Elevationatdestination:
8,830feet
SomehikersbelittleGemLakeforitspicayunishsize(0.2acre)andpiddlingdepth(about5feet),rankingitasasemi-preciousgemamongtheroyalcollectionoflakesthatgracethepark.Butthisispureslander,forwhatitlacksinsizeitmakesupforinbeauty,andthetrailtakesyouupLumpyRidgethroughsomeofthemostvariedanddistinctivesceneryintheparkallforamere2-mileeffort.
Thereisachoiceoftwotrailheadsthatgiveaccesstothelake:TwinOwlsontheMacGregorRanchwithinparkproperty,andtheGemLakeTrailheadoffDevil'sGulchRoad(whichcontinuesMacGregorAvenue)onprivategrounds.Thefirstisatadshorterandinvolvesabitlessofaclimb,buttheparkinglotcanbefullby10a.m.sincetheareaisameccaforrockclimbers.Soitisoftenlessofahassletostartfromthesecondtrailhead,andthisiswhereourdescriptionbegins.
Thefirst0.8milesofthisrouteleadsthroughprivatelandwherebarbed-wirefencingenforces'NoTrespassing'signs.Buteventhispartofthetrailisinteresting,whereenvy-provokinghomesitesstakeoutacresofwildflowers.Violetmonarda,blueerigeron,yellowsenecio,andwhiteachilleaareamongthemostcommon;butmanyothersarealsoabundant.
Thenthegradebecomessteeper,andshortswitchbackstakeyoutoeverlumpierregionsofLumpyRidge.Nearthe1-milemarkthepathsplitstheleft(west)branchleadingtotheTwinOwlsTrailhead,therightgoesnortheasttoGemLake.
Thepathcontinuesonamoremoderategradethroughopenforestofponderosapine.HugeandbizarreoutcroppingsofrockdominateascenereminiscentofthestonechessmenthatcharacterizeBryceCanyoninUtah,exceptthatthesepiecesaredarkgraygranite,notredsandstone.Hereandtheresidetrailsinviteyoutoexploretheseformations.Don't
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Boulderscarvedbytheelementsintofreeformsculpture
ViewofEstesParkfromGemLakeTrail
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GemLake
misstheopportunityit'slikestrollingthroughastonesculpturegarden,plustherearegrandviewsofEstesParkandothersectionsofLumpyRidge.
Pastthemidwaymarkthepathentersamoreheavilyforestedareaaspen,pine,spruce,andfirshadetheway.Soontheforestopens,againrevealingspectacularviewsofEstesParkandtheridge.Thenthetrailascendsmorequicklybyshort,steepswitchbacks,andinafewminutesdeliversyoutolakeside.
Thatfirstviewisquitespecial.Thelakeissetinanamphitheaterawallofstone,perhaps50feethigh,beginsonyourrightandhalfcirclesthelakealongitseastshore.Partsofthewallaresosteepthattechnicalrockclimbersareoftenseenhoningtheirskillshere.Ontheleft(west),rockledgesandagood-sizedsandybeachprovideperfectseatsforthespectators.
True,thelakeissmallandshallow.True,itspopularityguaranteesthatyouwillhavecompany.Andyes,aherdofhorsesmaystopforlunchwhenyoudo.Butthisisahighlyscenichike,theviewsarespectacular,thesettingofthelakeisbeautiful,andtherockformationsareasunusualasanythatcanbeseenintheparkallwithin
acoupleofmilesoftrailhead.
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YpsilonLake
Trailhead(4): LawnLakeTrailhead
Distanceoneway: 4.5mileAltitudegain: 2,180feetElevationatdestination: 10,540feet
YpsilonLaketakesitsnamefromthemountainthattowersaboveitsnorthwestshoretoanelevationof13,514feet.Itsprecipitoussoutheastface,scarredbyasnow-packed,Y-shapedcouloir,makesitoneofthemostdistinctiveandformidablepeaksinthepark.Inadditiontothelakeandthespectacularviewsofitsnamesakemountain,thistrailoffersseveralotherrewards:avisittoChipmunkLake,atarnoflessersizebutnolesserbeauty;well-composedscenesofLongsPeak;pineforestscarpetedwithgrouseberry,juniper,andbearberry;anddramaticviewsofthecanyongougedoutbyrampagingwaterthatbrokeloosefromLawnLakeDamin1982andfloweddowntheRoaringRiver.
Trailheadparkinghasroomforafewdozencars,theexactnumberdependingontheconsideratenessofthosewhoarrivedearlier.Serving
YpsilonLakewithMountChiquitaasabackdrop
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ChipmunkLakereflectingYpsilonMountain
boththeLawnLakeandtheYpsilonLaketrails,thelotispopularenoughtofillby9a.m.onsummerweekends.
Thehikebeginswithaseriesofswitchbacks.Afterabout0.5milesthetrailpassesalongtherimofthecanyoncutbythefloodwaterofLawnLake.It'shardtoimaginethatthemodeststreamseenmeanderingatthebottomcouldbechargedtosuchdestructiveforceastotearopenthisvastrentinthehillside,andcarryawaytrees,boulders,andanenormoustonnageofearththatrestricteditsformercourse.ThevastalluvialfanofmudandsandthatwassweptdownthehillsideintoHorseshoeParkisstillmostlybarren.
Nearingthe1.3-milemark,theLawnLakeTrailbranchesofftotheright,andthentheYpsilonLakeTrailcrossesRoaringRiverbywayofalogbridge.ThefirstviewofYpsilonMountainappearsinthebackgroundtothenorthwest.
Thetrailagaintakesuptheascentinearnestthroughsteepswitchbackssecuredbylogsteps.Lodgepolepinedominatestheforestasthetrailclimbsandmoderates,climbsandmoderates,overthebetterpartof2.5miles.About4milesfromtrailheadthepathbeginstodescendandtheforestopenstorevealaspectacularviewof
YpsilonMountain,itsextraordinarysoutheastfaceandthefullextentofitsY-shapedgashstraightaheadandfullyvisible.
SoonyouareatthesouthwestshoreofChipmunkLake.AfewstepstothemarshysoutheastsidegarnersagreatviewofYpsilonMountain
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anditslake-reflectedimage.Thisisasmalllake,amere0.1acreinsurfacearea,butitmakesabigimpressionwithpaletanbouldersdelineatingitsnorthwestshore,mossandsedgecarpetingthesoutheastshore,andthemagnificentmountainbackdrop.It'sdifficulttoleave,butYpsilonLakeisstill0.5milesaway.
Thetrailnowdescendssteeplyfromawell-definedlateralmoraine,climbsabitontheotherside,andthendescendssteeplytoYpsilonLake,passingthecascadesofastreamemanatingfromChiquitaLake.YoumeetYpsilonLakewithdramaticsuddennessatitswesternedge,andthedramaincreasesasyoucontinuealongitssouthernboundary.
TheprecipitousriseofYpsilonMountainfromthenorthwestshoreofthelakeprovidesaspectacularbackdrop,butcropstheviewofthesoutheastface.Thetrailskirtsthelakealongthree-quartersofitsshore,andmanyshortspursleadtothewater'sedgeprovidingprivateplacesforlunchandasnooze.
YpsilonMountainfromthetrail
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DeerMountain
Trailhead(5): DearRidgeJunctionTrailheadnearthejunctionofColorado34andColorado36
Distanceoneway:
3miles
Altitudegain: 1,080feetElevationatdestination:
10,010feet
Thispleasanthikeleadsfromflowerymeadowsandopenstandsofpine,upthroughconifer-woodedswitchbackstothetopofDeerMountain.Alongthewayandonthesummit,thereareexcellentviewsofYpsilonMountain,LongsPeak,andEstesPark.
Thetrailisgentlyascendingforthefirstmile,andthissectionofferssomeofthebestscenery.Nearthebeginningofthehike,lookingtothenorthwest,youseeYpsilonMountainframedbyponderosapine.Thesnow-filled,Y-shapedgashonthemountainssoutheastfacemakesiteasytorecognize.Abitfartheron,theforestgiveswaytograss-coveredslopeswithafewisolatedpinesofimpressivesizehereandthere.
LookingsouthtoLongsPeakfromthesummitofDeerMountain
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AspenandLongsPeakseenfromthetrail
Wildflowers,inabundanceandvariety,minglewiththegrasses.
Beforewalkingamile,youreachagroveofaspenextendingdownhilltothesouth.BeaverMeadowsfillsthemiddleofthescene,whileLongsPeak,9milesfarthersouth,formsthebackdrop.It'sasuperbview.
Pastthispoint,thetrailmakesasharpswitchback,andbeginstoclimbmoresteeplyupthesouthernflankofDeerMountainandintoaconiferousforest.Formostofthesecondmile,pinesandfirshadethetrail,butthereareseveralturnoutswhichprovideexcellentviewsofthevalleysbelowandthesurroundingmountains.
Withlessthanamiletogo,thegrademoderatestolevel,andthentoagentledownhillslope.Thenthetrailbecomessandyandindistinct.Theforestismoreopenhere,exposingsomelocalhighpoints,butnotthesummitofDeerMountain.
Apyramidalcairnofmonumentalsizemarksasplittingofthepath0.1milesfromthesummit.Thebranchtofollowmakesaright-anglerightandheadssteeplyupwardoverrockandscree,someofwhichisnottoofirmlyanchored.
AtthetopofDeerMountainancientlimberpinesandpicturesquesnagstestifytotheharshnessofmountainweatherevenatamere10,000feet.YoucanusethetreestoframeexcellentviewsofEstesParktotheeast,LongsPeaktothesouth,andYpsilonMountaintothenorthwest.Thereareallsortsofflat-toppedboulderstoserveasbenchesortableswhenyou'rereadyforlunch.
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OldUteTrail-TrailRidgetoBeaverMeadows
Trailhead(6):
OldUteTrailheadonTrailRidgeRd.,2.0mileswestofRainbowCurve,0.8mileseastofForestCanyonOverlook
Distanceoneway:
6.1miles(suggestedonewayrouteusing2cars)
Altitudeloss:
3,000feet
Elevationatstart:
11,250feet
TheOldUteTrailwaspartofanIndianroutethatoncelinkedvillagesacrosstheContinentalDivide.Inits3,000-footelevationdrop,thesectionofthetraildescribedherepassesthroughthreemountainzones:alpine,subalpine,andmontane.Althoughseveraloftheotherhikesdothesame,noneisshorter,andnoneoffersagreatervarietyofplantenvironments.
Steppingontothetundraat11,250feet,islikesettingfootonsomestrangeplanetavast,alien,anddesolatelandscape.You'reGulliverinthegardensofLilliput,wanderingamongwindwiseminiatureplantslessthananklehigh.Whattheylackinsizetheymakeupforinfloriferousnesssaxifrage,silene,phlox,andsedum,completelymantlethemselvesinbloomthroughmostofJulyandAugust.
Thefirst2milesoftrailaregentlyhilly,providingexcellentviewsacrossForestCanyontotheContinentalDivide.LongsPeakstandssentineltothesouth.Whereverthetrailoffersasweepingview,Longswillbeaprominentfeatureonthehorizon.Afteraclimbof200feet,thedescentbegins,atfirstgradually.Here,potentillastealstheshowthe2-footshrubscoveringextensivepatchesoftundraingoldenflowers.Heretoo,areexcellentviewstothesouthintotheFernLakearea.
Thenthetrailbeginstodescendmoresteeply,anditwillgetsteeperstill.Sincetheupperthirdisleveltogentlyascending,andthelowerthirdis
Sincetheupperthirdisleveltogentlyascending,andthelowerthirdisgentlyrollingtolevel,mostofthealtitudelossaccurswhiledecendingthemiddlethirdnottoobadgoingdownhill,butgoingupthispartoftheOldUteTrailisbestlefttoyoungUtes.
ThestartofthesteepdescentpresentsasuperbviewoftheroutedowntoUpperBeaverMeadows;theenormouslateralmorainethat
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Nearthestartofthehike,LongsPeakinthebackground
shouldersthetrailovermuchofitslasthalfisadominantfeature.Afewhundredstepsleadstoachest-highforestofsubalpinefirKrummholtz,sculptedandshearedbythewindsandsnow.Furtheralongthetrailthetreesaretaller,andnearthe2.5-milemarkisanopenstandoflimberpines.Thetreesarelarge,old,andtwistedsomescarredbyfire,othersflayedofbarktotheirsilverycoreovermostoftheirtrunk.
Continuingitssteepdescentthroughdenseforestofpineandfir,thepathoccasionallyopensontoameadowawashwithwildflowers.Thesearenotthetight,frugalknotsofthetundra,butaluxurianceoffull-sizedplantsscarletpaintbrush,purplepenstemon,whiteachillea,andmanyothersinmixturesthatwouldembarrassanecktiebutherejustperfect.
Furtheron,thegradebeginstomoderate.Inplaceswherethespruceandfirarespacedmorewidely,juniperspreadsovertheground,creatingtheillusionofawell-manicuredgarden.AsigngivesthedistanceanddirectiontotheUpperBeaverMeadowsTrailhead,2.8
milesahead.Againtheplantcommunitychanges:violetmonardaandgoldengallardiabestourcultivatedones;alliumanderigeron,blackeyedsusanandgoldenbannervieforattention;buttheexquisitemariposalilytakescenterstage.
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TherushingwaterofWindyGulchCreekisheardlongbeforeitisseen;butthenitcomeswithinafewfeetofthetrailbeforecascadingoutofsighttothevalleybelow.Thetrailcontinuesoverrockledgesthatprovideawonderfulviewofthevalleybelow.Thenthepathlevelsoutthroughdenseforestoflodgepolepineinterspersedwithsuperbstandsofaspen.Ofcourse,therearemoreflowersthedisplaycontinuingrightintotheparkingarea.
Nearthelowertrailheadyouwillnoticealargeareaenclosedbyafence.Thepurposeofthefenceistoexcludedeerandelk.Thisispartofanexperimenttostudythekindofplantgrowththatoccursinanareaprotectedfromforaging.
Thereareseveralvariationsonthishike.Thosewithasurplusofenergywillinsistondoingitfromthebottomup,oruseonlyonecarandtravelthetrailbothdirections.Butotherscansimplyhikeabitofthetoporabitofthebottom,andreturntothesametrailhead.Itwilldo,butit'ssecondbesttowalkingtheentiretrailandexperiencingtherichvarietyoflandscapesithastooffer.
Bushcinquefoilinfullbloomonthealpinetundra
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Chapin,Chiquita,andYpsilonMountains
Trailhead(7): ChapinCreekTrailhead
Distanceoneway:
1.5miles(Mt.Chapin),2.4miles(Mt.Chiquita),and3.5miles(Mt.Ypsilon)
Altitudegain: 1,814feet;2,429feet;and2,874feetrespectivelyElevationatdestination:
12,454feet;13,069feet;and13,514feetrespectively
Thisisatourofthreemountainpeakstwoofwhichtopoutatover13,000feet.Muchofthetrailisonalpinetundraabovetimberline,andtherearemarvelousviewsoftheChapinCreekValleyandtheMummyRangealongtheway.Butthemostspectacularviewsofallarethoseseenfromthethreesummits.FromeachyoucanseetheprecipitouseastfaceofatleastoneoftheothersandHorseshoeParkandEstesParkfarbelowtothesoutheast.
ToreachthetrailheadfromtheBeaverMeadowsentrance,drivenorthwestonU.S.36toDeerRidgeJunction.Continuenorthwest(bearingright),nowonU.S.34headedforEndovalley.PastEndovalley,thepavedroadends,andyoucontinueontheone-way-onlyFallRiverRoadrutty,dusty,andrepletewithhairpincurvesforits8.5milestretchtotheAlpineVisitorCenter.The15mphspeedlimitisnonetooconservative.Thetrailheadisreachedabout6.5milesfromEndovalley,andwillbeonyourright.Thereareparkingspacesontheleftinasmallparkingareaandalongtheshoulderoftheroad.
Forthefirstquarterofamile,thetrailclimbssteeplytoaridge,andthenturnssharplyright(east).Thepathleadsthroughadenseforestofspruceandfir.Afteraboutamile,thetreesareshorter,andtheforestbeginstoopen.Onyourleft(tothenorth)isaviewdownintotheChapinCreekValley,wheretheriverisabandofsilvertwistingthroughagenerousborderofbrightgreengrassstrikinglyframedby
theconifer-coveredmountains.
Soonthetrailclimbsabovetimberline,wheretheviewistrulyexpansive.AsyouproceedacrossthewesternflankofMountChapin,the
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YpsilonMountainfromTrailRidgeRoad
trailcrossesfingersoftalus,andhereiswhereyoudiscovertheworthofhikingbootswithgoodsupport,goodankleprotection,andsturdysoles.
Thetrailbecomesindistinct,thenimaginary.AnascentofafewhundredfeettakesyoutothesummitofMountChapinwithitsremarkableviewsofChiquitaandthevalleystothesoutheast.Some,preferringashorterhike,makethistheirdestination,andthenturnback.
ThosegoingontotheotherpeakscrossthesaddlebetweenMountsChapinandChiquita.Here,forthefirsttime,youseetheeastfaceofbothofthesemountains,theprecipitousdropinsharpcontrasttothemoderatewesternslopes.
ImprovisearoutetothesummitofChiquita.Muchofthewalkwillbeacrosstalus,notthemostcomfortableofwalkingsurfaces.Situatedatthetopisasmall,rockamphitheater.Partlytheworkofpeople,butmostlythatofnature,itfaceseastwardaperfectplacetoenjoyasnackandthedramaticviewsofthecompanionmountains.
Thenit'sontoYpsilonMountain,descendingafewhundredfeettotheYpsilon-ChiquitasaddlebeforeclimbingthesouthernpeakofYpsilon.ThispeakoffersthebestviewofYpsilon'sdramaticeastfacewith
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itssnow-filledcouloirs,butthenorthernpeak,ashortwalkacrossashallowsaddle,givesthebestviewofSpectacleLakes.
OnecancontinuemountainhoppingalongtheMummyRangetoFairchildMountainandHaguesPeak,boththirteeners.However,thisextendsthehikewaybeyondthelimitsofthetrailscoveredhere,andtheLawnLakeTrailprovidesamoreconvenientroute.Besides,theviewfromYpsilonMountaindeservesalongandleisurelystay,andthereissceneryenoughalongthewaytosatisfythemostdiscriminatinghiker.
YpsilonMountain'snortheastpeakseenfromitssoutheastpeak
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Page109
NORTHWESTTrailsNearPoudreLake25Shorttundrahikes26OldUteTrail-TrailRidgeRoadtoPoudreLake27TheCrater28LuluCityandLittleYellowstoneCanyon29TimberLake
SincethisregionoftheparkincludesasectionoftheContinentalDivide,itisnotsurprisingthatmanyofthebestalpinetundrahikesarefoundhere.TheothertrailsincludedherelietothewestoftheDivide,wheremoistureismoreabundant.Thesetrailsfeaturegentlemarshes,lushforests,superbriverscenery,andtranquillakes.
AllthesetrailsarereachedfromthenorthwestsectionofTrailRidgeRoad.Duringwinter,whenthenorthernsectionoftheroadisclosed,onlytheTimberLakeandColoradoRivertrailscanbereached,andthenonlybytravelingnorthonTrailRidgeRoadfromGrandLake.
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ShortTundraHikes
Trailhead(1):
TundraTrailTrailheadonTrailRidgeRoad;(2):TrailRidgeRoadoppositeAlpineVisitorCenter;(3):AlpineVisitorCenter
Distance: AfewstepstoafewmilescustomizetosuitAltitudegain:
Nominaltonegative
Elevationattrailhead:
About11,500feet
Thealpinetundraisanotherworldperchedonthepenthouseoftheplanetwherelivingisanythingbutposhandeasy.It'salandofragingwinds,fearsomeelectricalstorms,andanine-monthwinterofbittercoldandheavysnow.Yetit'shometocreatureslikethemarmotandpika,andallsortsofminiatureplantswhosedelicateformandexquisiteblossomsareinsharpcontrasttotheharshnessofthesetting.Flowerythroughoutthesummer,theshowisatitsheightfrommid-Julytomid-August,withanencoreofmoresubtlebeautybeginninginearlySeptemberwhenbrightblossomsgivewaytorichtintsofamberandrusset.
AndtheviewsAh!theviews!Spectacularinalmosteverydirection.
Formuchofthesummerthealpinetundraisusuallysun-soakedinthemorningandovercastintheafternoon.Thecloudsoftenbringrainnotgentleshowers,butthunderstormsthatdemandattentionandrespect.Evenunderclearskiesthetemperaturecanbe30ocoolerthaninEstesPark,andwindislikelytobeabriskandbadgeringpresencethroughoutthedayannoyingtosome,butforothersaddingtothesenseofplaceandexcitement.
AllthewalksdescribedherebeginatTrailRidgeRoadtoppingoutat
over12,000feet,it'sthehighestcontinuousroadintheU.S.,andmostofitsnorthernstretchreachesabovetimberline.
Perhapsthemostpopularisthe0.3-milehikethatstartsattheparkinglotservingtheAlpineVisitorCenter.Theclimbisshortbutsteep,andatthetoparetheexpectedgrandviewsandanalpinegardenfeaturingallsortsofhummockyplantssetagainstwhite,quartz-lacedbouldersandscree.AsigninformsyouthattheelevationishigherthanthesummitofMountHood.
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Mushroom-shapedrockonTundraTrail
NearlyaspopularistheTundraTrail,whichbeginsjustwestofRockCutonTrailRidgeRoad.Theparkingareaisfairlygenerous,butstilllikelytobeatornearcapacityonaclementweekendafternoonduringsummer.Acommodiousouthouseatthetrailheadmaybemomentarilyaswelcomeasightasthespectacularscenery.Thehalf-milehikeclimbsgraduallytoseveralextraordinaryrockoutcroppings,onefeaturingacarbuncleofstonesome15feethigh,bizarrebutbeautiful,incongruouslyrisingoutofthetundralikeamushroom.Abitfurtheron,definingtheendofthewalkformostpeople,isafortresslikestoneoutcroppingastrikingviewinitselfandprovidingstrikingviewsforthosewhoscrambletoitstop.
TwohikesincorporatingportionsoftheOldUteTrailaredescribedonpages102and112,whereatwo-carshuttleissuggestedinordertoavoidretracingtheroute.Butyoucanenjoybothofthesetrailsbywalkingthetundraportionandreturningtotheuppertrailhead,andneitherislikelytobeascrowdedastheothertwodescribedhere.
Althoughnoneofthefourtundrahikesmentionedinthissectionareofdaylength,onecancustomizeaday-longtripbydoingseveralinsuccessionit'satreat.Takecaretostayonthepaths;inspiteofthe
ruggednessoftheterrainandtheharshnessoftheclimate,thisisanextremelyfragileecosystem,onethatiseasytowoundandslowtoheal.
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OldUteTrail-TrailRidgetoPoudreLake
Trailhead(2): TrailRidgeRoadacrossfromtheAlpineVisitorCenter
Distanceoneway:
4.2miles
Altitudeloss: 1,050feetElevationatstart:
11,800feet
ThisisanothersectionoftheOldUteTrail(seep.102)whichcanbetraversedinonedirectionbyarrangingatwo-carshuttle.Asexpectedofatrailthatstartsinthealpinezoneandendswellintothesubalpine,thishikepassesthrougharichvarietyoflandscapes,fromtheausterebeautyofthetundra,tolushforestsoffir,tothehanginggardensnearPoudreLake.Notrailsurpassesthisoneinitsabundanceanddiversityofwildflowers.
Alpinetundranearthestartofthehike
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HangingLake
TheuppertrailheadisonTrailRidgeRoaddirectlyacrossfromtheeastentranceoftheparkinglotthatservestheAlpineVisitorCenter.Thetrailheadisnotmarkedatthiswriting,butiseasilylocated.
Foraboutathirdofitslengththepathleadsthroughtreelesstundracarpetedwithminiaturealpineplants:saxifrage,phlox,silene,sedum,mountaindryad,alpinesunflower,aswellasglobeflowerandelephantellawhichoneusuallyassociateswithwetterterrainandloweraltitudes.ThroughoutthispartofthehiketherearesuperbviewsofthemountainsdefiningtheContinentalDivide.
Ataboutthe1-milemarkisaseriesofpools,hanginglakesiftheywerelarger,perchedabovevalleysattheveryrimofthedropoff.Sedgesandgrassesgrowabundantlyontheshorescreatingminimarshesthatseemoutofplaceinthealpinetundra.
Sogradualisthedescentthattheintroductionoftreesintothelandscapeisalmostimperceptible.First,ground-huggingcoloniesof
subalpinefirappear;thenbolder,isolatedstandsstuddedwithpennanttrees;thenlargerstandswithshortbutproperlycone-shapedsentinelsinthecenter;andfinally,subalpineforestwithfull-sizedspruceandfir.
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RockspiresandhanginggardensnearPoudreLake
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PoudreLake
Thewildflowersreflectthechangeinaltitude,shade,andmoisturethealpineminiaturesgivewaytobluechimingbell,whitephlox-likebittercress,penstemon,beesbalm,indianpaintbrush,ladytressesorchid,andmanymore.
Abouttwo-thirdsofamilefromthelake,arockyoutcroppresentsagardenofsilver-leavedandgolden-floweredsenecio,purple-plumedsilkyphacelius,penstemon,andanaphalisbutwait,thebestisupahead.Anotherhalfmileleadstoastartlingoutcropofrockpinnacles.Saxafrage,heuchera,sedum,andmanyotheralpineminiaturesspreadoutontheprominencesornestleinthecracksanexquisitehanginggardenmadeevenmorestrikingbythepatchesoforangelichenthatdecoratetherock.AlthoughonlyafewhundredyardsfromPoudreLake,it'sanaptrewardforamuchlongerhike.
PoudreLakeisborderedbyTrailRidgeRoadandisservedbyafairlylargeparkinglot,providingconvenientaccesstothelake.Manyvisitors,havingonlyonecarattheirdisposal,choosetohikethelowerportionofthetrailstartingfromthelake.Otherscometostrollalong
thesoutheastshorewhereit'seasytofindapleasantspottostopforlunch.
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TheCrater
Trailhead(4): CraterTrailheadatMilnerPassnearPoudreLake
Distanceoneway: 1mileAltitudegain: 730feetElevationatdestination:
11,480feet
ThetrailtoTheCraterisonlyamilelong,butsteepenoughtomakeitmorethanacasualstroll.Thehikebeginsindenseforestandendsabovetimberlineattherimofanenormousconcavitylikethecraterofavolcano.Ifyou'reluckyyouwillseebighornsheep,butnoluckisneededtoenjoythegrandview.Consideringthepopularityofthehike,theparkingareaattrailheadisskimpy,andyoumighthavetoparkafewhundredfeetawayatPoudreLakeandwalkbackalongtheroadifsowatchoutforcarswhosedriversarewatchingoutforscenery.
TheCraterandthe1,000-footriseofSpecimenMountainaboveitsrimisabighornsheepsanctuary,offlimitstohikers.It'sagoodguessthatmanytakethistrailprimarilyinhopesofseeingsheep.Butseldomisalargecongregationspotted,andthunderingherdsareoutofthequestion.Expecttoseeasmallgrouphereandthere,andonsomedaysnoneatall.
Butit'snotonlythesheepthatdistinguishthishike.Thetrailpassesthroughbeautifulsubalpineforestofspruce,thegroundcoveredwithextensivepatchesofgrouseberrythatturncopperyredinautumn.Theforestendsquitesuddenly,openingupanexpansiveviewofthePoudreRiverValley.Theriverisstrikinglyset-offbyaborderofbrightgreenvegetationastrikingcontrasttothedarkgreenconifersthatcoverthesurroundinghills.Thetrailcontinuesitssteepclimb,
andsoonreachestherimoftheCrater.
Thesceneisalsoastrikingstudyincontrastsdarkconiferscovertheeast-facingslopes,whilethewest-facingslopesshowonlythelighttancolorofbarerock.AcrossTheCratertothewest,theNeverSummerRangedominatesthehorizon.RisingaboveTheCratertothenorthisSpecimenMountain,awebofgametrailscrisscrossingitsflanksfromitssummitdowntothebottomofTheCrater.Someofthesetrailsareusedbythebighorns;allareofflimitstohikerssinceSpecimenMountainisdesignatedasa''NationalResearchArea"thatcanonlybevisitedbyresearcherswithaspecialpermit.
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LookingdownintoTheCrater
SpecimenMountainisnamedfortheabundanceofinterestingrockspecimenstobefoundonitsslopesfound,buthopefullyleftinplace,sincethisisaparkforallofus.Oncethoughttobeanactivevolcanothatblewitstop,geologistsnowbelievethattheashdepositsonSpecimen,aswellasotherfeaturesofvolcanicorigin,liketheLavaCliffsafewmileseast,camefromvolcanicactivitythatoccurredoutsidethepark.Thecraterismerelytheresultoferosion.Whilethelatesttheoryrobsthesiteofsomeofitsromanticaura,itdoesnothingtodiminishitsscenicimpact.
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LuluCityandLittleYellowstoneCanyon
Trailhead(5): ColoradoRiverTrailhead,northwestcornerofTrailRidgeRoad
Distanceoneway: 3.7miles(LuluCity);4.6miles(LittleYellowstoneCanyon)
Altitudegain: 350feet(LuluCity);990feet(LittleYellowstoneCanyon)
Elevationatdestination:
9,360feet(LuluCity);10,000feet(LittleYellowstoneCanyon)
TheColoradoRiverTrailisyourroutetoLuluCity,onceaminingtownbuiltinthehopeofstrikingitrichingoldandsilver.AfterLuluCity,thetrailcontinuesforanadditional0.7milestotheLittleYellowstoneCanyon.Alongtheway,yougettoenjoyexcellentriverscenery,lushmarshlands,andpleasantforests.Allofwhichmakesthisavariedandinterestingtrailineveryseasonoftheyear.
FormersiteofLuluCity
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TheColoradoRiverasseennearthebeginningofthetrail
Someofthemostimpressivesceneryoccurswithinthefirsthalfmile,wherethepathandtheriverruncloselyparalleltoeachother.Elder,alder,willows,andgrassessoftensectionsofthebank;barepebblescobbleothersections;spruceencroachupontheshore,leanprecariouslyoutoverthewaterandthenbendbackwardasthoughhavingthoughtbetterofit.TheriveristheColoradomostimpressiveduringthelatespringrunoff,butalwaysascenichighpoint.
Thetrailfollowstheriverupstreamabit,andthen,toosoon,divergesfromitandleadsthroughopenforestofmixedtrees.Oneextensivestandofaspenisbackedbyacliff,andthegray-blackrockmakesaperfectfoilforthewhitetrunks.Furtheronisamarshwithbillowingclumpsofgrassandmanysmallpondsinterconnectedbyasystemofrivulets.Beyondthebrightgreenofthemarsharehillscoveredwithsomberblue-greenconifers;beyondthehills,thesnow-capped,graymountains.
Soontheworkingsofmancomeintoevidenceinthemountainsidetotherightofthetrail.ThetailingoftheShiplerMinestilllittertheslopeafterahundredyears;tonsofcrackedrockturnedoutofthemountaininsearchofouncesofsilver.It'sahalfmilefurtheralong
thetrailtotheShiplercabins,twobrokendownone-roomersslowlybeingreclaimedbytheforest.JoeShiplerbuiltthefirstcabinin1876.Afterthirty-eightyears,rheumaticandnotmuchricher,heabandonedthemineandleftthevalley.
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TailingsfromtheShiplerMine
Afewstepspastthesecabinsandafewstepsintothewoodsattheleftofthetrailisanotherwoodencabin,thisoneofmoremodernorigin,andstillinuseanouthouse,unremarkableexceptforitsconvenience.
AfterleavingtheShiplercabins,thetrailleadsthroughdenserforest,againconifersandaspen,butnowtheconiferspredominate.Thetrailbecomesmorehilly,moregravelly,buttheinclinesaremoderateandshort.Soonthepathleadsoutontoaflatgrassyexpanse,setparklikeamongwell-forestedhillsandthemountains.Youhavearrived.ThisisthesiteofLuluCity.Theminingtownthatspranguplikeamushroomin1879,collapsedsomefiveyearslaternotenoughpaydirttomakeitpay.However,attheheightofitsgoldfever,itboastedahotel,postoffice,biweeklystagecoach,andevenabrothelaRockyMountainwintercanbelongandcold.
Acoupleofcollapsedcabinsfronttheentrancetothenearlyvanishedtown;theirnewoccupantsaresprucetrees,outgrowingtheirwelcomeandabouttoassimilatetheirhosts.Aquarterofamileuptrail,neartheendofthetownsite,acoppiceofspruceisskirtedbytheremainsofanothercabin,nowreducedtoafour-log-hightreeplanter.Asidefromthethreebroken-downcabins,othersignsofLuluCityarehardto
findinthisgentlefieldtheforesthasabsorbedalmostallofit.However,itiseasytofindthemoderncabintotheeastofthetrailit'sanotherouthouse.
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IwonderifShiplerandthecitizensofLuluCityappreciatedthewondrousbeautyaroundthem;orweretheytooentrancedwiththequestforpreciousmetaltogiveadamn.Maybetheplatinumhoarfrost,theice-silveredstreams,theaspen'sautumngoldonlyservedtoremindthemoftheimpendingwinterandthepastseason'sstingyissueofrealgoldandsilver.Whatwasitliketoendurethefiercesummerstorms,thehail,andlightning?Howdidtheycopewiththewintersnowsdrivenbyraging80mphwinds,andthebone-crackingchillof30°below.Thereseemstobenolimittotheprivationandsufferingpeoplewillinglyendureforthesakeofaccumulatingenoughwealthtoavoidsuchprivationandsuffering.Wecometohikeinthemostpleasantweatherandleavebyday'send,butsomeoftheinhabitantsofLulustayedtheyeararound.There'snothinglikethepromiseofwealthtoforgestoicresolve.
IfyouwishtohikefartherthanLuluCity,youcancontinuenorthtoLittleYellowstoneCanyon,anadditional0.9mileswithanelevationgainof640feet.Therearetwodifferentroutes.Onecontinuesthroughthemeadowandisabitlessstrenuous;theotherbranchesofftotherightjustbeforeyouenterLuluCityandfollowstheLaPoudreRiverTrail.After0.6miles,thetwotrailsmeetandgentlydescendtotheColoradoRiver,atthispointonlyamany-channeledhintofitslaterforceandvolume.Rusticbridgesprovideacrossing,andthenyoubeginthemodestascentalongthenarrowgravellypathonthecanyonwall.
Withinaquarter-milethecanyonwallsbecomemoresolidandblocky.LookingdownintothecanyonmaycallupimagesofthebigYellowstoneCanyoninWyomingbutherethescaleismuchreduced.
Atrailforallseasons
ThesceneryalongtheColoradoRiverTrailchangesdramatically
throughouttheyear.Eachseasonscriptsitsownscenario,andeachscenarioiswondrouslydifferentfromtheothers.
Springofferstheriveratitsfullestandcontraststhenewlymintedleavesofthedeciduoustreesagainstslategrayrockorthesombergray-greenoftheconifersstillincandleor,morevibrantly,againsttheunbeatableblueofaColoradosky.Earlywildflowerssparkthefields,andthemeadowgrassesshowtheflounceandturgoroffreshnewgrowth.Inthebackground,steelbluemountainsarestillwell-mantledwithsnow,justthebackdropforthebrightfreshcolorsofthemeadowsandmarshes.Andtheair...Perfect...Perfectintemperature...Nottoodry,nottoodamp...Andfilledwiththericharomaofnewgrowthandnewlyshedpineneedlesstirredupbythunderstormsthatregularlypunctuatelateafternoonsandeveningsduringthisseason.
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Summercalmsthelandscape;annealsthesoftspringrushofgrowthtohardwood;overpaintsthelimegreenaspenleavesinlowkeybutsubstantialblue-gray-greens,andwhitensthebark;stiffensthecandlesoftheconifersandbrushesthemout;plumesthemanygrasseswithairyinflorescences;bringsthewildflowershowtoapeak;butleavesenoughsnowonthemountainstoremindyouthatthereareotherseasons.
Autumnisthemostflamboyanttimeoftheyear.Thelandscapeisreworkedwithafullpalette:theentirespectrumofgreensfrombluetoyellowshowintheconifers;aspensparkleyellow,gold,orevenorange;grouseberry,ablueberryrelative,carpetstheforestfloorwithcopperyscarlet;hereandtheresumacsofseveralspeciesflareanincandescentrubyredonthehillsides.Thegrassesaremorereserved,turningsubtleshadesofyellow,gold,bronze,andtan.Theponds,streams,andtheColoradoRiverreflecttheblueoftheskyandmixthiscoloramongalltheotherstossedontothewaterfromthebanks.
Asautumnflamesitselfout,theaspendeciduate,andscattertheirgoldalongthepathsandintothewater.Allisunadornedstructure,spareandelegant.Thenthesnowscome,andthelandscapetakesitsmostdramaticturn,achangeintoitsboldestform,simplifiedintosteelycontrasts.Whiteskeletalaspenaresetagainstgray-blackrocks;riversandpoolsappearblackagainstsnow-coveredbanks,asdotheconifersundertheirwhitetopcoats;andeventhemountainsseemblackwherefreeofsnow.Onlytheskygivescolortothisblackandwhitescene,andthiscoloristhedeepest,purestblueoftheseason,unlessastormisbrewing.Butduringagentlesnowfall,theharshblack-and-whitecontrastisgone,andinitsplaceisanew,impressionisticlandscape,withsnow-dustedtreesandrocks,andthemistyhillsandbarelydiscerniblemountainsinthebackground.
Andthewintervisitorgarnersanotherbonussolitudefewotherswillbe
theretodisturbthetranquility.Snowshoescanbeused,butthistrailhassofewsteepsections,andthesearesoshort,thateventhenearnoviceshouldhavelittletroublewithit.It'smostlyaneasyskateup,andanalmostcontinuous,gentleschussdown.
ThewinterroutetoLuluCityandLittleYellowstoneCanyonisthesameasthesummerroutetheColoradoRiverTrail.However,theparkinglotservingthattrailheadisnotplowed,soleaveyourcarattheTimberLakeparkinglot,andskiwestacrosstheroad.Asignboardfartherwestatthebottomofahillmarksthebeginningofthetrail.
SinceTrailRidgeRoadisclosedduringwinter,onehastocomebywayoftheGrandLakeentrance,atwo-hourdrivefromBoulderorDenver.However,thedrivethroughClearCreekCanyonisascenictreatinitself,andthewinterskitourtoLuluCityisunbeatable.
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TimberLake
Trailhead(6): TimberLakeTrailheadonTrailRidgeRoad9.6milesnorthoftheGrandLakeentrance
Distanceoneway:
4.8miles
Altitudegain: 2,060feetElevationatdestination:
11,060feet
MostoftheTimberLakeTrailpassesthroughdenseforest,sotherearefewsweepingviews.Ontheotherhand,theshademakesforpleasanthiking,andthetrailboastsallsortsofwaterfeaturesandanexceptionallyrichvarietyofwoodlandwildflowers.Locatedawayfromthemorecrowdedsectionsofthepark,thishikeoffersmoretranquilityandsolitudethanmanyothers.Thelakeitselfisafineprize,beautifullysetoffbythemountainsrisingbehinditssouthwestshore.
Thebeginningofthetrailisgracedbyalargestandofaspenmaturetrees,straight-trunkedandtalloneofthefinestgrovesinthepark.
TimberLake
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Winteraspen
It'satreatineveryseason,butseeitinthefallwhenit'sinfullincandescentshimmer,orinthewinterwhenit'sawhite-on-whitepictureofbaretrunksandsnow.
SoonthepathcrossesPhantomCreek;then,afterathirdofamileoffairlylevelterrain,leadstoabridgespanningagood-sizedcascadechurnedupbyBeaverCreek.Thenthetrailbeginstoclimbmoresteeplythroughforestoflodgepolepine,spruce,andfir.YouwillhearthecarsonTrailRidgeRoad,butsoonthenoisegiveswaytothesoundofwaterasyoutravelparallelto,butnotinsightof,TimberCreek.
Nearthe2-milemark,youfinallymeetTimberCreekafewfeettothesideofthetrail,itsbanksgarlandedwithwildflowersbluechimingbellisjuxtaposedwithwhite,phlox-likebrookcress.Hereandthere,poisedonbouldersmidstream,oneseesmagentafloweringclumpsofthefabulousParryprimrose.Thetrailsoonleavesthecreek,thenreturnsandleavesafewmoretimes.
When1.7milesfromthelakeasigngivesthedirectionandthe
distancethepathturnssharplyleft,andclimbsbyshortswitchbacks.Thisisthesteepestportionofthetrail,butitlastsonlyaquarterofa
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mile.Anotherhalf-mileorsoleadstoarockoutcroppingheavilylacedwithquartzthewhiteofthebouldersastrikingfoilforanextensivestandofscarletindianpaintbrush.
SoontheforestopensuptorevealameadowskirtingthesouthernflankofJackstrawMountain.Asignpointsthewaytoastrategicallyplacedouthouse.Othersignspointtothiscampgroundorthat,andthereisaturnofftotheright(south)toLongMeadows.Proceednortheastacrossthemeadowtotheclumpysubalpineforestatthefarend.
Afterafewmoresteepswitchbacks,thetrailarrivesatTimberLakeneartheoriginofTimberCreek.Heretheshoreismarshy,butrepletewithglobeflower,marshmarigold,andsuperbclumpsoftherareboglaurelclothedinthree-quarterinchcotton-candy-pinkhexagonalbloomsforamonthinearlysummer.
Therearedryperchestobehadonthenorthwestandsoutheastshores.Thefirstisonbouldersatthewater'sedge.Thesecond,onarisefacingtheContinentalDivide,givesthebestviewthelakesetagainstabackdropofmountains.Thereareseveralotherscenicviewpoints,andmanyplaceswhereyoucanexploretheshore.
Quartz-lacedboulderswithinahalf-mileofthelake
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SOUTHWESTTrailsNearGrandLake30ColumbineBay31ShadowMountain32AdamsFalls33Onahu-Tonahutu-GreenMountainTrailLoop
SomeofColorado'slargestlakesborderthesouthwestcornerofthepark,andtheColoradoRiverpassesthroughthisregionfromnorthtosouth,gainingvolumealongtheway.AddedtothesesourcesofmoistureisthatwhichiswrungfromthecloudsastheycomeinfromthewestandpressupagainsttheContinentalDivide,makingthisthemostverdantsectionofthepark.ThereareexcellenttrailsalonglakeshoresandtheColoradoRiver,aswellasmountainhikesandahiketoapleasantwaterfall.Andsincethisregionis20milesfartherfromDenverthantheeastsideofthepark,itdrawsfewervisitors,andsooffersmoresolitude.
TheareacanbereachedfromthesouthbytakingU.S.40toGranby,andfromtheretakingU.S.34toGrandLake.TrailRidgeRoadisopenfrommidspringtomidautumn,andprovidesanalternateroutetoGrandLakefromtheeastsideofthepark.
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ShadowMountainLaketoColumbineBay
Trailhead(1): EastShoreTrailheadviaU.S.34inGrandLake
Distanceoneway: 1.5milesandbeyondifyouchooseAltitudegain: nominalElevationatdestination:
8,250feet
ThiseasyandpleasanttrailfromShadowMountaintoColumbineBaypassesthroughavarietyofriversideenvironmentsrepletewithgentlescenesofmountain-backedmeadows,luxuriantmarshes,anddenselodgepoleforest.Atthedestinationisaserenelybeautifulbay.It'sahikeforallseasonsandaspecialtreatforthosewithapenchantforriverscenery.
Thetrailheadisreachedbydrivingeastonthe1.2-,milesideroadoffofU.S.34nearthecenterofGrandLake'smotelrow.ParkattheGreenRidge
ShadowMountainLakeattwilight
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ShadowMountainLake
CampgroundonthewesternsideofShadowMountainDam,andwalkacrossthedamtotheparkboundaryandtrailheadonitseasternside.
Onsummerweekendsthedamandtheshoresofitsrun-offarelikelytobecrowdedbypicnickersandfisherman,whilethelakeitselfhostsaregattaofsmallsailboats,rowboats,andpowerboats.Nevertheless,thelakeismagnificent,andthetree-studdedrollinghillsthatformitsshoresandthemountainrangesbehindthemprovideitwithamagnificentsetting.Andafterafewminutesonthetrail,solitudeisyours.
Ashortwalkthroughpineforestleadstoamarshyplainthickwithgrasses,borderedcloselyononesidebytheColoradoRiverandontheotherbyhills,strangelydryandcoveredwithyuccasandghostly-graysages.Thentheplainextendsitsreachfartotheeastwhereit'sbackedbymountains.Inspringandearlysummer,thispartofthetrailisboggyenoughtowarrantitswood-plankedwalkway,successfullydesignedtobeasunobtrusiveaspossible.BetweenthelastfrostsofspringandbeforethefirstfrostsofautumnthisplainandmanyotherpartsofthistrailarealivewithmosquitossoitmaybewisetoDEETifyyourselfonceortwiceduringthehike.
Thepathleavesthemarshanddividesaboutahalf-milefromthetrailheadonebranchheadingwesttowardtheriver,theothersoutheast.Theywillmeetagaininabout0.3miles,sotakeonebranchgoingandtheotheronthereturn.Ineithercasethepathsoonentersdrierterrainandleadsthroughforestsandthenbacktotheriver.About1.5
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Marshgrassesinautumn
milesfromtrailhead,theviewopensoutontoagrassyfieldandColumbineBay.
Thebayisborderedbyconiferousforestsoffir,spruceandpinethestandextendingupthesurroundingmountains.Ahazyfieldofgrasscarpetstheeastshore,andaccentuatestheserenebeautyofthescene.Pastthispoint,ColumbineBayjoinsGrandBay,andfarthersouthGrandBayentersLakeGranby.TheEastShoreTrailcontinuesformorethan11milestotheArapahoBayRangerStation,withthelast5milesofthetrailoutsideofthepark'sboundary.
Hikingthistrailinautumnbringsadditionalpleasures.Afewhardfrostssolvethemosquitoproblem,andwithfewervisitorsthereismoresolitude.Themarshyareasaremostlydry,andthegrassesareinfull-plumedglorywithcolornearertogoldthantotan,givinganimpressionisticsoftnesstotheriversidescenery,butahard-edgedcontrasttothemountains.
ToCalypsoBayWinter
Whetheronsnowshoesorskis,awinterexcursiontoCalypsoBayisapleasantexperience.Ofcourse,themarshgrassesandforest
groundcoversarenowmaskedbysnow,butinreturnthereisastarklybeautifulstudyinblackandwhite.Thetreesareblackinthelightofasunnowtoo
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SnowshoeingalongtheColoradoRiver(photobySusanMalitz)
weaktofireupanycolor;eventheriverflowsblack,itsblacknessaccentuatedbyrazoredslashesofwhitereflectionsandshardsofice.
Atonepoint,aboutonemilefromthetrailhead,thetrailleadsoutoftheforesttoasweepingviewoftheColoradoRiver,thirtypacesorsooffthepath.Thenthetrailascends,asitcutsitsnarrowwayacrossarathersteephillside,steepenoughtoposeanavalanchethreat.
Onecanavoidthissectionofthetrailbygoingdowntotheriverbeforetheclimbbegins.Closetotheriver'sedgethereisanalternateroute,usuallywellmarkedbyskitravel,thatparallelstheofficialpath.Mostwillfindthealternaterouteeasier,safer,andmorescenic.However,thisroutesoonrunsintoapromontoryofrockthatjutsouttowardtheriver,endingexactlyatitsedge.Steppingstonesinshallowwaterprovideawayarounditbuttakecare,thestonesmaybeslippery,andunstable.
Pastthisobstacle,thetreelessshorewidenstoasmuchas300feetfromrivertoforest.Somemayfindthispartofthehikeabitunvarying,butitdoeshaveanausterebeautythatevokesaprofoundsenseofsolitude.Thescenedoesn'tchangeformostofamile;but
whenitdoes,assumingthatyouhavetakentheshorelineroute,youfindthewayimpededbyajumbleofbouldersattheheadofColumbineBayalikelyplacetoturnback.
ThetrailfromShadowMountainLaketoColumbineBayisahikeforallseasons,andaspecialtreatforthosewithafondnessforriveryscenery.
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ShadowMountain
Trailhead(1):
EastShoreTrailhead,parkingatShadowMountainDam3milessouthoftheGrandLakeentrancestation
Distance: 4.8milesAltitudegain:
1,530feet
Elevationatdestination:
9,920feet
ThehiketothetopofShadowMountainisvariedandhighlyscenic,anditslocationatthesouthwestcorneroftheParkenhancesitsappealforthoseseekingsolitude.Thetrailoffersextraordinarylakescenery,unusualrockformations,comfortablewalkingintheshadeofconifers,andsuperbviewsfromthefirelookoutstationnearthesummit.
Therearetwoapproachestothetrailthatleadsupthemountain.OneisviathetownofGrandLake:goeastoffU.S.34,turnrightatthepostoffice,crossthebridgespanningthecanaljoiningGrandLakeandShadowMountainLaketoroad'send,park,andfollowthetrailalong
GrandLakefromthefirelookout
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Rockformationsnearthemidwaymark
thewestshoreofShadowMountainLakeabout1.5milestowheretheShadowMountainTrailbranchesofftotheright.TheotherroutebeginsatthesoutherntipofShadowMountainDam:driveeastoffU.S.34totheGreenRidgeCampground,park,walkacrossthespillway,walknorthforabout1.5milesalongthewestshoreofShadowMountainLake,andturnrightontotheShadowMountainTrail.Thesecondrouteisabitshorterandmaybeabitmorescenic,butit'satoss-up.
EitherstartingpointbeginsawalkalongtheeasternshoreofShadowMountainLakeslow-goingsincethereisaphotoopportunityevery
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fewsteps.Duringthesummer,thetrailismostlydry;wherethereisabitofmarshiness,featheryhorsetailsmakeacarpetofbrightestgreen.
Afterabout1.5milesfromeitherstartingpoint,asignmarksthesidetrailtothefirelookout3.3milesaway.Thepathturnssharplytothesoutheast,andbeginstosnakeitswayupthemountainthroughforestofpine.Theclimbismostlygradualandthepathmostlyuncluttered,butafewsectionsaresteeperandrockier,particularlynearthebeginningandtheend.
Midwayalongtheascentisanextraordinaryboulderoutcroppingthedarkgraygranitefoldedandflutedintosoftformsthatmocktherock.Inthecrevicestuftsofgreenishwhitefloweredheucheraandemeraldgreenmossfurtherheightentheillusionofplushsoftness.Thisshowisrepeatedagainfurtheralongthetrail,withafinal,lessdramaticencoreneartheend.
Aboutamilefromthelookouttower,attheelbowofaswitchback,asmallstreamemergesfromthehillside.Itsflow,partlydirectedalongahollowlog,splashesontoabedofmossstuddedwithclumpsofgolden-floweredmimulus.Fromhereit'sonlyacrookedmiletothelookout;still,theforestisdenseenoughtopermitonlytantalizing,sliveredviewsofthelakes.
Evenatthebaseofthefirelookoutthebouldersandtreesblocktheview.Butclimbafewflightsofstairstotheupperdeckandthereyouhaveitall:GrandLakeandShadowMountainLakespread1,500feetbelowyou,surroundedbymountains.
Thosepreferringawalkwithlesselevationgaincanoptfora3-mileshoretourfromthetownofGrandLaketoShadowMountainDam(orthereverse)byarrangingatwo-carshuttle,ormakeitatwo-way6-milestroll,orwalkpartwayandthenbackfromeitherstartingpointnoneoftheseoptionswilldisappointyou.
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AdamsFalls
Trailhead(2): EastInletTrailheadinGrandLake
Distanceoneway: 0.3milesAltitudegain: 80feetElevationatdestination:
8,470feet
ThetrailtoAdamsFallsisthemostpopularwalkintheGrandLakeregionoftheparkashortandeasystrolltoapleasantwaterfallandsomesuperbriverscenery.
OnU.S.34thereisasmallkioskthatservesasatouristinformationcenter.Immediatelytothesouthofthekiosk,asideroadleavesthehighwayandheadseasttothecenterofGrandLakewhereitjoinsaroad(left)toAdamsFalls.ParkingattheEastInlettrailheadisample,andspaceisalmostguaranteed,eventhoughthewalktothefallsisquitepopular.
Thegentletrailwindsitswayeastthroughapleasantconiferousforest.Borderingthetrailinseveralplacesaresomeextraordinaryoutcroppingsofgray-blackrock.Deeplypleatedandpillowyinform,theycontradictthestufftheyaremadeof.
Thepathleadstoarockledgeoverlook,sheartothefallsbelow.Thefallsarebeautiful,butofmodestsizeandmostofthedramaticportionishiddenaway.However,theuppercascadeisinfullviewasitcareensthroughashallowcanyondowntothebrinkofthefalls.
Scramblingdowntotheriverbankbringsyouquiteclosetothelowerfalls,butheretoothesurroundingrockblocksaclearview.Theriverquicklyspreadsout,andduringthedrierpartoftheseasoncanbeeasilyforded,providingthatcareistakennottoslipontheslick
algae-coatedrocks.Onceontheotherside,thereisanunobstructedviewofthelowerfalls,butthereisnoneedtocrossoverinordertoenjoythesuperbriverscenery.
Therivercanbefolloweddownstreamforhalfamileorso.Insomeplacespineandfirencroachupontheshore;inothers,theshoreisskirtedwithgrassesofseveralspeciessomegracefullyarching,othersemphaticallyvertical.Thescenemaybeatitsbestinautumnwhenfrostburnishesthegrassestosilkytanandbrassyyellow,andfurnishesthemwithanassortmentofdistinctiveseedheads.Autumnalsocurbsthenumberofvisitors,andthecoolertemperatureisperfectforhiking.
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ThehikedescribedhereistheinitialsectionoftheEastInletTrailwhichcontinuespastthewaterfall.Thesceneryispleasant,andaboutahalf-milefromthefallsthetrailpassescloseenoughtoEastInlettoprovideexcellentriverscenery.ThefirstmajorfeatureisLonePineLake,5.5milesfromthetrailhead.
AdamsFalls
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Lichenandmoss-coveredcliffbesideAdamsFalls
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Onahu-Tonahutu-GreenMountainTrail
Trailhead(3,4):OnahuTrailheadorGreenMountainTrailhead3.3milesnorthoftheGrandLakeentrance
Distance(completeloop):
6.5miles
Altitudegain: 820feet(from8,850feetto9,670feet,andback)
TheOnahu,Tonahutu,andGreenMountaintrailsconvenientlyintersecttoformacircleroutethroughavarietyofpleasantterrain,includingseveralsitesofhistoricalinterest.Thehikeiseasy,althoughthereareafewsteepsectionsofmoderatelyshortduration.
ThehikecanstartateithertheGreenMountainTrailheadortheOnahuCreekTrailhead.Thosepreferingtocompleteahikewithadownhillstretch,shouldstartattheformer.AwillingchauffeurcanleavetherestofthegroupattheOnahuCreekTrailhead,anddropthecaroffattheGreenMountainTrailheadasavingofa0.5milesandafewdozenfeetofelevationgainforwhichthedriverisrewardedwithapleasantstrollthroughmixedforestofpine,spruce,fir,andsomefinestandsofaspen,althoughthesightandsoundofhighwaytrafficwillbeanunwelcomedcompanionthroughoutthisshortstretch.
StartingattheOnahuCreekTrailhead,aninitialhillyascentofaboutamilethroughforestofaspenandpine,thenpine,spruceandfir,bringsyoutoabridgethatcrossesOnahuCreek.Althoughnotaragingtorrent,thewhitewaterhasactionenoughtocounterpointthemoss-coveredrocksandabundantflowersonthebanks.At2milesfromtrailhead,asignannouncesthatOnahuBridge,yournextdestination,ishalfamilefurtheron.Thepathleadsawayfromthewaterthroughlodgepoleforest,andthencomesbacktothecreektocrossit.HereitjoinstheTimberCreekTrailwhichyoufollowtotheright(south).
Afewhundredfeetbringsyoutoajunctionoftrailsandaconfusionofsignscontinueinthesamedirection,headingsouthtowardBigMeadows.Nowthetrailascendsmoresteeply,crossingagray-blackjumbleofgranitebouldersthisisanedgemoraine,detritusscoopedupanddepositedatthesidesofaglacier.Thenit'sbacktotheforest.
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Lodgepolepine
BigMeadows
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OneofSamStone'scabins
Thistimeit'spurelodgepolepineinsuchanextraordinarydensepackthatvisibilityiscuttoacoupleofdozenfeet.
Continuingsouth,1.3milesfromitsintersectionwiththeOnahuTrail,theTimberCreekTrailismetbytheTonahutuTrailenteringfromtheeast,andasignannouncesthatBearLakeis13.5milesawayabitmorethantwicethedistanceofthishike.Ignoringthetemptation,continuesouthtoBigMeadowsonwhatisnowtheTonahutuTrail.Andbigitisaseaofwildflowersandgrassesrimmedbyhills.Yougettoviewitfromtheshadeoftheforest,andit'sapictureworthtaking.
Aboutmidwayalongthemeadowsstandtwotrailsidecabins,formerpropertyofSamStone.Hebuiltthemaround1900,onetohousehimself,theotherhislivestock.Heearnedhislivelihoodbysellinghayharvestedfromthemeadowathisdoorstep.Butthenhemetawomanwhoconvincedhimthatgoldwastobefoundinwhatisnowthesouthernpartofthepark.SoSamabandonedhishomesteadandwentinpursuitoftheladyandthepreciousmetalandneverwasheard
fromagain.
AtthesouthendofthemeadowtheGreenMountainTrailcrossestheTonahutuTrail.YouturnrightontotheGreenMountainTrailandfollowitwestbacktothetrailheadforaneasy1.8milesthroughapleasantevergreenforest.
Page141
Bibliography
GEOLOGY
Richmond,GeraldM.,RaisingtheRoofoftheRockies,EstesPark,CO:RockyMountainNatureAssociation,1974.
FLORAANDFAUNA
Armstrong,DavidM.,RockyMountainMammals,EstesPark,CO:RockyMountainNatureAssociation,1975.
Craighead,JohnJ.,Craighead,FrankC.,andDavis,RayJ.,RockyMountainWildflowers,Boston,MA:HoughtonMifflinCompany,1963.
Dannen,Donna,andDannen,Kent,RockyMountainWildflowers,EstesPark,CO:TundraPublications,1987.
Torbit,StephanC.,LargeMammalsoftheCentralRockies,MonteVista,CO:BennetCreekPublications,1987.
Udvardi,MiklosD.,AudubonSocietyFieldGuidetoNorthAmericanBirds,WesternRegion,NewYork,NY:Knopf,1977.
Watts,Tom,RockyMountainTreeFinder,Berkeley,CA:NatureGuide,1972.
Weber,WilliamA.,RockyMountainFlora,5thed.,Boulder,CO:ColoradoAssociatedUniversityPress,1976.
GENERAL
Mills,EnosA.,TheSpelloftheRockies,Lincoln,NE:UniversityofNebraskaPress,1987.
Trimble,Stephan,LongsPeak,EstesPark,CO:RockyMountainNatureAssociation,1984.
Willard,BeatriceElizabethandFoster,SusanQuimby,ARoadsideGuidetoRockyMountainNationalPark,Boulder,CO:JohnsonBooks,1990.
HIKINGANDCAMPING
Dannen,Donna,andDannen,Kent,RockyMountainNationalParkHikingTrails,6thed.,Chester,CT:GlobePiquotPress,1985.
Dannen,Donna,andDannen,Kent,ShortHikesinRockyMountainNationalPark,EstesPark,CO:TundraPublications,1986.
ErikNilsson,RockyMountainNationalParkTrailGuide,WorldPublication,1978.
HISTORY
Buchholtz,CurtW.,RockyMountainNationalPark:aHistory,BoulderCO:ColoradoAssociatedUniversityPress,1983.
Page142
IndexThisindexislimitedtoproperplacenames.Eachentrywhichisadestinationofahikefeaturedinthetextisinboldtype.Thenumbersinparentheseserankthecomparativedifficultyofthehikeandweredeterminedbyequating1,000feetofelevationgainwithawalkoftwomiles,andthenaddingthistothenumberofmilesrequiredfortheroundtrip.Forexample,MillsLakeis2.5milesfromtheGlacierGorgeJunctionTrailheadandthehikerequiresaclimbof700feet.Theratingunderthissytemis:
(0.002xelevationgain)+distanceroundtrip=rating(0.002x700)+5.0=6.4
Asaruleofthumb,weregardahikeaseasyiftheratingislessthan6;moderateifbetween6and10;anddifficultifgreaterthan10.MythankstoDickHolleyforsuggestingthisformula;itmeshesnicelywithintuitiveestimatesoftheeffortrequired.
A
AdamsFalls(0.8),135-137
AlbertaFalls(1.5),48-50
AlpineBrook,34,38
AlpineVisitorsCenter,110-113
AndrewsGlacier,59,61
ArapahoBayRangerStation,130
ArchRocks,90
B
BattleMountainCampground,37
BearLake(0.0),67-71
BeaverCreek,124
BeaverMeadows,13
BierstadtLake(3.9),82-83
BigMeadows,138-139
BigThompsonRiver,86,88,90
BlackLake(12.2),56-57
BluebirdLake,29-30
BoulderField,34,37-39
ButterflyBurnof1929,43
C
CalypsoBay,130
CalypsoCascades(5.0),21-28
CathedralWall,59
Chapin,Mount(6.6),105-107
ChasmLake(13.1),34-42
ChiefsHeadPeak,20,40,53
ChipmunkLake,97-98
Chiquita,Mount(9.6),105-107
ColoradoRiverTrail,118-122
ColumbineBay(3.0),128,131
ColumbineFalls,34
ConyCreek,25,27
CopelandFalls(0.6),25-28
CopelandLake,23
CopelandMountain,20,22,28,30
Crater(3.5),116-117
CubLake(5.7),86-89
D
DeerMountain(8.2),100-101
Diamond,The,36,39
DreamLake(3.1),68-71
E
EastInlet,135
EmeraldLake(4.8),68-71,79
EstesCone(9.8),31-33
EugeniaMine,31
F
FairchildMountain,107
FernCreek,75,77,90
FernFalls(6.7),90-93
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FernLake(10.4),90-93
FinchLake(11.9),20-22
FlattopMountain,6,68-71,80-81,83
ForestCanyon,102
G
GemLake(6.2),94-96
GlacierBasin,31
GlacierBrook,52
GlacierCreek,52,55-57
GlacierGorge,39,47-50
GlacierGorgeJunction,47,58
GlacierKnobs,58
GlassLake(LakeofGlass)(11.5),61-65
GrandLake,127-128,132,134
GranitePass,38
GreenMountainTrail,138-140
GreenRidgeCampground,133
H
HaguesPeak,107
HaiyahaLake(3.6),72-74
HallettPeak(18.5),6,68-71,78-81
HangingLake,113
HorseshoePark,98,105
I
IcyBrook,58,61
InnBrook,31
J
JackstrawMountain,125
JewelLake,53,56
K
KeyboardoftheWinds,52,80
Keyhole,34,37,39-40
L
LadyWashington,Mount,45
LakeGranby,81
LakeofGlass(11.5),61-65
LawnLakeDam,97
LilyLake,33
LittleMatterhorn,75,91,93
LittleYellowstoneCanyon(11.6),118-122
Loch,The,(7.3),54,58-62
LochVale,52,65
LonePineLake,136
LongMeadows,125
LongsPeak(25.7),31,34,37-44,70
LongsPeakRangerStation,31,34,44
LuluCity(8.1),118-122
LumpyRidge,85,94
M
MacgregorRanch,94
MahanaPeak,30
McHenrysPeak,40,53,56,79
Meeker,Mount,20,31,42,45
MillsGlacier,36
MillsLake(6.4),51-55
MoraineParkCampground,86
MountLadyWashington,45
MountMeeker,20,31,42,45
N
NorthSt.VrainCreek,25,27
NotchtopMountain,75,77,91,93
NymphLake(1.5),68-71
0
OdessaLake(18.8),75-77
OldUteTrailtoBeaverMeadows(6.1one-waydownhill),102-104
OldUteTrailtoPoudreLake(4.2one-waydownhill),112-115
Onahu-Tonahutu-GreenMountainTrailloop(8.1),138-140
OuzelCreek,29-30
OuzelFalls(7.3),23-28
OuzelFireof1978,26,28-29
OuzelLake(12.8),28-30
P
PagodaMountain,20,40
PeacockPool,34
PhantomCreek,124
Pool,The,75,86,90
PoudreLake,112-115
PowellPeak,59,65,79
R
RibbonFalls,56
RoaringFork,34
RoaringRiver,97-98
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S
ShadowMountain(12.7),132-134
ShadowMountainLake,81,128-131
ShiplerMine,119
SkyPond(12.5),61-65
SpecimenMountain,116-117
SpruceCreek,90
StonesPeak,87
StormPeak,39,42,56
T
TanimaPeak,30
TaylorGlacier,65
TaylorPeak,59,65,79
ThatchtopMountain,53,64
ThunderLake,29
TimberCreek,124-125
TimberLake(13.7),123-125
TimberlineFalls(10.8),61-65
TonahutuTrail,138-140
TrailRidgeRoad,109-113,122
TundraHikes(varies)110-111
TundraTrail,13,111
TwinSistersMountain(10.1),43-45
TyndallCreek,69-71
TyndallGlacier,78,80-81,83
W
WildBasin,20,28,42
WildBasinRangerStation,20,23,26
WindyGulchCreek,104
Y
YpsilonLake(13.4),97-99
YpsilonMountain(12.7),98-99,105-107