Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20160404 ...

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Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20160404* Peterbilt California Hauler 359 1:25 Scale AMT Model Kit #866 Review

Peterbilt Motors Company was founded in 1939. They are an American manufacturer of medium and heavy-duty Class 5 through Class 8 Semi trucks. From the early 1960s until the mid-1980s the company was based in the San Francisco Bay Area in California, with its headquarters and main plant all in Newark California. The Newark plant closed in 1980 and manufacturing all moved to Denton, TX and Madison, TN. The Model 359 was Introduced 1967 as the first long-nosed conventional Peterbilt. In 1967–1972 it had the small-windowed "Unilite" cab. The first 359 was spec'd as a wrecker and sold to Coast Counties Peterbilt. In 1973, the 1100 series cab with bulkhead-style doors debuted and the distinctive "Corvette" dash added in 1977 its formal name "Dash of Class". The 359 was in production until 1987, when it was replaced by its successor the model "379". 1987 Peterbilt produced the "359 Classic", a limited run of 359 trucks with numbered dash plaques. The bulkhead style doors of the 1100 series cab are still used today. The sleeper debuted on a 359-127" and can be seen in the 1978 brochure "Best in Class". This truck also featured the first set of rectangular headlamps. The first raised roof sleeper was on a 359 in 1986 and with changes carried through to the 379 family.


For the modeler: This review covers the Round2 Kit in 1/25 Scale of the Peterbilt 359 California Hauler. This kit is a Re-release (Re-Pop) and was first seen in the early 70’s. This is released under the AMT line and is Kit #AMT866 in the current catalog. While no Skill Level is given this would be a Skill Level 3 for advanced builders. There are roughly 250 parts molded in White, Chrome, Clear and Clear Red and has Vinyl tires with Metal axles. This kit has seen life as many other kits and been the basis of quite a few other releases over the years. It is one of AMT’s more popular kits. That being said Round2 has cleaned up the molds and the parts are crisp with good detail and little flash. The assembly is detailed with a full motor, chassis and interior to assemble. The cab is one piece with the fenders separate on the hood. There is no sleeper included in the kit. The chrome is bright and details crisp. The tires are good quality and not warped. Unfortunately you get no dash decals but the body decals do give quite a few options of companies and two stripes. The instructions are typical old style AMT. Overall size is: Length: 11-1/4”, Width: 3-3/4", Height: 6”.

BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure.

Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the build YOU want! Unless you are building a “Factory Stock” or a “Replica” your choices of color and build options are completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no “Wrong way” to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly.

PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the 2014 Retro Deluxe version. Unless otherwise stated I use Model Masters Liquid Cement for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer’s White Glue. Paints consist of Tamiya Acrylic bottle paints and different brands of “Rattle can” spray paints. Many parts are finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than a half an hour and clear about 6

hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer’s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection.


PIC 2 PIC 3 Here are the decals for this build. The quality is very high and color registry is good. There is a small carrier around each decal. These decals float easily and will set quickly. Normally it is preferable to use a setting solution to help move the decals in place on your build and to allow extra time to place them. I personally have found Microscale Industries products to be the most compatible with all the different manufacturers of decals.

PIC 4 A majority of the motor is assembled prior to painting. Also I will paint many of the chrome parts as it is my preference to not have chrome on motor parts.

PIC 5 Assemble the block, oil pan, heads, lower and upper front covers, transmission rear plate, oil filter, blower drive case front and back and oil filler tube. Assemble the blower halves and front and rear, add the governor. On the valve cover add the oil filler.


PAINT NOTE: Peterbilt would custom paint the motors to match or contrast the frames and bodies for the customer’s special order. I painted the block Green with an Aluminum transmission. The governor is Aluminum as is the oil cooler. The exhaust manifolds are Steel. The starter is Black with a Gold solenoid. The belt is Flat Black.

PIC 6 PIC 7 Final motor assembly: Add the blower and valve covers to the motor top. Add the oil cooler and exhaust manifolds and starter. Install the air compressor and add the belt.


PIC 8 PIC 9 The chassis is started by assembly of the frame rails. Install the cross-members in place in the notches in the frame rails on one side at a time. Add the other frame rail and press the rails together tight to ensure the glue joints are secure. MAKE SURE THE FRAME IS STRAIGHT. Again Peterbilt custom painted the frames to order and would either match the frame to the fender accent color, stripe color or a contrasting color as per the customer order. I am using a Steel color frame that will contrast the body color.


PIC 10 PIC 11 Finish the motor and install it. Paint the belts Flat Black and the fan Black. Install the Upper radiator hose and lower radiator hose. Add the filter to the upper hose. Install the alternator onto the small belt and add that to the motor. On the large belt add the fan mount and fan. Assemble the air compressor and add it. Install the motor into the frame at this point. Add the belt in place on the front of the motor.


PIC 12 PIC 13 The tires can be given a rough-road used look by using 220 grit sandpaper and pressing and rolling the tread on the sand paper. This will sand off the glossy surface leaving a roughed up tread that resembles road wear. Paint the hub either Body color or Chassis color. Insert the hub into the rim. Insert the rim into the tire and Superglue the trim ring to the rim edge.


PIC 14 PIC 15 The tires can be given a rough road used look by using 220 grit sandpaper and pressing and rolling the tread on the paper. This will sand off the glossy surface leaving a roughed up tread that resembles road wear. Paint the rear drum chassis color. Insert a tire onto each of the eight rims and superglue the trim rings to the rim edges. Note the inner rims have NO LUGS. Attach an inner rim to the drum, then attach an outer rim to the inner rim. I used superglue here for strength.


PIC 16 The rear air ride is installed. The mounts are painted chassis color. The bags and shocks are Flat Black with the top and bottoms of the bags chassis color

PIC 17 Add the bags to the mounts and slide the mounts in place adding the shocks to the frame and mounts on their respective pins.


PIC 18 The suspensions are assembled and installed. There can be some assembly prior to painting.

PIC 19 Assemble the rear axles and add the back plates. Add the brake mounts and cylinders to the plates. Assemble the front axle with the hubs and axle pins, add the tie rod. Paint the assembled rear axles, front axle and midship bearing, chassis color. Paint the shocks, steering box, idler arm and pitman arm Flat Black. Paint the driveshafts Aluminum and Steel mixed 50/50.


PIC 20 I used Superglue for this assembly. Install the front driveshaft to the midship bearing and transmission installing the midship bearing. Add the mid driveshaft with the forward-most rear axle. Install the rear driveshaft and rear axle. Insert the metal axles with the rear dual tires at this time. Add the front tires to the front axles and install the front axle. Add the shocks. Install the steering box, idler arm and pitman arm.

PIC 21 The front suspension is installed.


PIC 21 The rear suspension is installed. PIC 23 Finish the chassis assembly by adding the tanks and accessories. Assemble the two fuel tanks and paint them Body color with Aluminum straps. Assemble the battery box and paint that Chrome.


PIC 24 Assemble the fifth wheel carrier and plate. Paint that and the fifth wheel Flat Black. The mud flaps are Flat Black. The fuel tank steps are Chrome. Assemble the air tanks and install those on the frame. Assemble the tail lights and install that. Add the deck plates and pogo stick. Add the reserve tank. Install the battery box. Assemble and install the fifth wheel. Install the mud flaps. Add the fuel tanks with the steps on the passenger side.

PIC 25 The rolling chassis is completed at this point and can be set aside to begin the interior.

PIC 26 Start the interior by assembling the driver seat base. On the base add the front bar and back bar then the side supports. This is Flat Black. Add the passenger seat to the base. Add the heater core to the inner firewall. Add the filler brace to the upper open area on the passenger side interior tub.


PIC 27 Pick a color to paint the interior, I used Flat Tan to contrast the exterior color. Paint the interior walls and seats the Flat Tan. The floor, firewall inside and outside of the tub are Flat Black. The pedals and shift knob and boot are Black. The outside firewall is Body color with the wires highlighted Black and Silver. On the door panels highlight the window cranks and trim in silver. Assemble the seats and add the seats to the tub. Install the pedals and shifter. Add the firewall. NOTE: in the photo you see the steering column and wheel I installed those early to make it easier to install the dash.

PIC 28 The dash and wheel are painted interior color with a Flat Black column. The wheel has Aluminum spokes.


PIC 29 PIC 30 As the decal sheet had no dash details I used the internet and searched for decals to fit the dash. GOOGLE is your friend! I found a set that had been scanned and I saved them and using a photo program did a little color clean up and sizing to fit. I printed them on plain paper and after scraping the dash smooth glued the replacement dash into place. Also I used other scrap decals from my decal box for the other decals. Add the brake handle and the dash is complete.

PIC 31 PIC 32 With the column and wheel in place add the dash to the interior. Glue the column to the dash in place. Assemble the interior onto the frame and add the steering linkage from the column to the steering box (red Arrow). PIC 33 It is time to start the body assembly and painting. The only part that is truly OPTIONAL is the roof AC unit. As I decide to make this look like a newer rig I will not use this part.


PIC 34 PIC 35 NOTE: There are a bunch of holes in the roof to drill out depending on the parts you use. I have color coded the holes for you to decide how you wish to proceed. RED- Running Lights. GREEN- Horns, you can do an option of left, right or both. BLUE- AC unit, as you see mine are left undrilled.


PIC 36 Assemble the cab’s sides and add the air cleaner and Luberfine mounts. On the hood add the fenders and mud flaps. Assemble the air cleaner and Luberfine.

PIC 37 It is difficult to wet sand the cab and hood with all of the detail and rivets, I used a scrub pad instead to just scuff the surface and clean the parts. Use a good primer and cover the parts inside and out with the primer and let it cure.


PIC 38 Again due to the detail and lack of sanding ability I scuffed the primer and rinsed the parts. I painted this body with a custom mix of PPG Automotive paint. There is no actual color name as I mixed it myself until I got a blend I was happy with. PPG is a two stage paint that requires a Clear Coat. It is intended for automotive use and care must be taken when using it on Styrene to not paint it too thick or too fast as it can CRAZE the plastic. That is the main purpose of using a high quality Lacquer Based Primer. It protects the model from the paint. The good side of using automotive paint is the colors and quality you can achieve. The down side is prep time and attention to detail is much more important than using “Hobby Quality” products. But the end results are well worth the efforts for a CONTEST QUALITY finish. PIC 39 Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again.


PIC 40 Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it “Floats” loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the body and lay smooth. To apply Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher decals apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. Let the decals cure at least overnight before applying your clear coat. PIC 41 I used a Silver Paint Pen and a Black Sharpie for the trim and straps. Once finished I installed the air cleaner and Luberfine. Now I will Clear Coat the body and hood.


PIC 43 PIC 44 Tint the side and rear windows. OPTIONAL: Window tint is a popular addition to most cars. Finding a reliable and easy way to tint the Clear styrene for a model can be difficult. Alclad has made the process much easier! They sell a product called Transparent Smoke. This is applied through your airbrush. Prepare the windows by cleaning them thoroughly and masking the outside off. Spray one or two light coats (Or more for darker tint) on the inside of the window. It dries quickly and leaves a see-through tinting on the window that has no bubbles or blemishes.

PIC 45 PIC 46 Install the glass. Paint the header panel interior color and install that. OPTIONAL: Prior to assembly I want to give the glass a thinner crisper look. I will dip the parts into Pledge Floor Care. When applied to both side of a piece of clear polystyrene, it will make glass appear thinner and clearer. It will help to hide minor scratches also. Simply pour some Pledge into a small container and dip your clear glass into it. It will self-level and make the part look clearer. Place the parts on a sheet of paper towel to cure, the paper towel will draw out the excess Pledge and “Wick” it off the parts so it does not accumulate at the edges leaving an unwanted build up. After you dip the part, be sure to place a cover over it to prevent dust from collecting on it.


PIC 47 Slide the cab over the interior and into place on the chassis. Glue along the firewall to hold it tight.

PIC 48 The under hood items can be finished. Install the wipers. Paint the air tube Flat Black, Assemble the elbow and paint it Flat Black. Assemble the radiator and add the three hoses, paint this Flat Black.


PIC 49 Install the radiator lining up the hoses and gluing them to the motor. Install the air tube and elbow and glue those in place. Add the Luberfine cover. Add the bottom to the air cleaner and assemble the top and add it in place.

PIC 50 The roof accessories can be installed. The marker lights are Transparent Yellow.


PIC 51 Install the lenses to the bezels and add them to the roof. Assemble the horns and install those in place. The lenses are added to the spot lights and the spot lights glued to the roof.

PIC 52 PIC 53 Add the mirrors and stacks. I used Superglue for the complete assembly. Assemble the stacks and add the grab handles. Install those onto the corner of the cab. Install the door handles. The mirrors are built in progression. Install the upper and lower supports. Add the mirror hang support. Add the cross bar. Add the mirror. Repeat for the other side.


PIC 54 PIC 55 The hood is assembled and added. Paint the grille mesh with a 50/50 Flat Black and Water wash. Add the logo decal. Install the grille to the hood. Add the turn signals and marker lights on the hood and paint the lenses Transparent Yellow. Add the lenses into the headlights and install the headlights onto the grille side. Add the lenses to the fog lights and paint them Transparent Yellow. Glue those to the bottom of the bumper. The bumper is glued to the frame ends. The hood just slides in place and sits without any support.

PIC 56 A view of the rear of the finished truck.


PIC 57 The final assembly is adding the exhaust pipes.

PIC 58 Paint them steel and add them from the stacks to the exhaust manifolds. Note: the many ejector pin marks and seams. You’ll have to repair those if you are building for a contest.


PIC 59 I had decals and the AC unit remaining. There is a sprue of Clear Red parts that are not used also.


OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: AMT has had the molds for this kit since the 70’s and it has seen multiple releases. Round2 has done a good job of sending out a clean copy of this kit with limited flash and mold lines. You will need to clean up the parts some as expected and the overall details are not as crisp as you would see on kits released in today’s NEW RELEASE MOLD versions but these still build up to be nice shelf models and with a little work are seen at many contests still today. The chassis was very straight and I had no issues with build up or fitting of parts at all, location points were easy to find and the overall assembly quite simple. The motor built very easily also and fit together nicely. Fitting it in the final assembly was a little tricky but not beyond normal ability if you take your time. The interior is not too bad, the details on the dash were crisp but overall details were not strong. The cab is a one part unit as is the hood, when fitting the parts on the truck in final assembly it is not a perfect fit and will never be. But this is quite the norm for old AMT kits and not much of a surprise. The overall assembly is easy for a builder with experience and I would not have a young builder jump into one of these kits. The chrome work is typical of the time where damage happens when removing parts from the sprue and the sprue tabs are tad thick. Round2 has continued to re-release some great old kits from the past and this is another one that the big rig fans were happy to see. Based on the buildability, finished looks and overall assembly process I rate this one as an 8.5 on a scale of 1 to 10.

Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20160404 ...

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