Rethinking the Culture and Nature Problematic in Light of the Sociology of Food
Transcript of Rethinking the Culture and Nature Problematic in Light of the Sociology of Food
Putting Food on the Table:
Rethinking the Culture and Nature
Problematic in Light of the
Sociology of Food
Elisha Vlaholias
Faculty of Social and Behavioural Sciences Flinders University, Adelaide, Australia
Thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the Honours Degree of Bachelor of Arts in Sociology
20th July 2012
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We should look for someone to eat and drink
with before looking for something to eat and drink, for dining alone is leading the life of a lion or a wolf.
-Epicurus, BC 341-270
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ABSTRACT
Food is emerging as an important aspect of environmental problems, and, perhaps in an
interrelated fashion, an incipient field of debate in sociology. However scholarly responses
to food as an environmental issue, sociological or otherwise, have hitherto commonly
viewed food as an 'ingredient' of larger environmental concerns, rather than a matter to be
focused on in its own right. In this way environmental sociology is like a cooking recipe,
which asks you to 'add food and stir' without questioning the very recipe, or in this case the
theoretical framework itself. Yet as theoretical understandings underpin both social
practices and sociological research, it is essential that such theories be problematised and
debated as new issues come to light. This is what the present thesis proposes to do.
This thesis comprises the first stage of a larger research programme. Its overarching
premise is that the social category and cultural meanings of food must be integrated into
any future environmental sociology. However as a first step the current study limits its
focus to the interrogation of theoretical frameworks underpinning the sociology of the
environment and the emerging sociology of food, which are articulated as responses to the
nature/culture problematic in modernity. Since 'food' is inherently and simultaneously
'natural' and 'cultural' it problematises the nature/culture divide in a new way that requires
further inspection. For this reason this project takes food as a heuristic tool to
reproblematise and rearticulate the nature/culture divide that underpins social theoretical
frameworks of the environment.
The overall aim of this thesis is to critically engage with two âcase studiesâ in social theory
(authored by Claude LĂ©vi-Strauss and Klaus Eder respectively) that have considered food
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as a central social category in relation to the culture/nature divide. The purpose of this
comparison is to critically analyse and extract valuable insights from these texts that will be
rethought and reconstructed to consider the implications they might have towards the
development of a new conceptual framework. This new framework will examine the
cultural meanings of food, and understand food as a serious environmental issue, which
intersects both the broader industrial sphere and our everyday lives. This thesis thus
provides a preliminary step towards an environmental sociology of food.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS It is a pleasure to thank several people who, in one way or another, contributed and
extended their valuable assistance in the preparation and completion of this thesis.
It is difficult to overstate my sincerest gratitude to my supervisor, Dr Suzi Adams, without
her support, inspiration, masterly explanations, and valuable feedback this thesis would not
have been possible. In particular I wish to express my deepest thanks for her extraordinary
patience as the preparation of this thesis overshot numerous deadlines.
I wish to thank my friends for their encouraging messages and for understanding my
absence whilst in my âstudy caveâ.
Special thanks goes to my dearest sister, Naomi Vlaholias, for her camaraderie, skilful
tech-support, and diligent editing, not only of this thesis, but my many undergraduate
essays too.
I would also like to thank Elyse Aird and Shaileigh Page for their enthusiasm,
encouragement, and proofreading that helped to polish this work.
Last but not least, my parents, Nick Vlaholias and Rebecca Vlaholias, for their love and
support throughout all my studies. I would like to particularly thank my dad for his daily
cheerful encouragement, letâs hope I am indeed âon a winnerâ. Finally, I am indebted to
my mum for her endless support and for keenly discussing and listening to all my ideas and
rants about the modern food system over countless cups of tea.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS Abstract 2 Acknowledgements 4 Introduction: An Appetiser 6
Overview and Summary of ChaptersâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ................8 MethodologyâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ.......................................11 A Note on TerminologyâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ..............15
Chapter 1: Whatâs Cooking? Nature, the Environment, and Food in Sociology 18
The Sociology of NatureâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ.20 Environmental SociologyâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ27 The Sociology of FoodâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ30
Chapter 2: The Structuralist Language of Food: Claude LĂ©vi-Strauss 39
Intellectual BiographyâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ.40 The Raw and the CookedâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ49 The Culinary TriangleâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ.54
Chapter 3: The Symbolic Frameworks of Food: Klaus Eder 65
Intellectual SourcesâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ.66 The Social Construction of NatureâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ..âŠâŠ....69 Culinary MoralityâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ...âŠâŠâŠ.............80
Conclusions and Future Directions: The Elementary Forms of Food 86
Claude LĂ©vi-StraussâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ....88 Klaus EderâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ...91 Civilisation and KulturâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠâŠ....94
Bibliography 99
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INTRODUCTION: An Appetiser
In the last century the modern food system has become one of the largest global industries
with world food exports estimated to be over US$1026 billion in 2010 (Department of
Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry 2010, p.21).1 The food industry is a prime source of
profit, export, and employment, which involves a wide variety of stakeholders, such as
corporations, government agencies, unions, consumer groups, and health professionals
(Germov & Williams 2008, p.11). A concerning factor of the modern food system is that it
is dominated by Northern industrialised countries, and many of these key players have very
different interests (Beardsworth & Keil 1997; Dowler et al. 2009). The consequence of this
issue is that food is becoming an âindustrialised product of global capitalismâ (Dowler et al.
2009, p.200). This shift has brought attention to the alarming reality of the modern food
systemâs contribution to environmental problems, including greenhouse gas emissions, the
depletion of water, oil, and other vital resources. This shift has also led to predictions about
the effect of climate change on future food production (Dowler et al. 2009; Ericksen 2008;
Garnett 2008; Leahy 2008; Pretty et al. 2005).
The modern food system is progressively distancing nature from culture by encouraging
society to view the natural environment as an array of commodities and an infinite
resource.2 Many approaches to the environmental problems of the modern food system
have focused on economic and technological-based aspects. However this thesis argues
that changing practices can only occur if we investigate the underlying constitutions of
meanings concerning food that inform our changing social practices at a core level.
Understanding food as a social and cultural category is important because environmental
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issues, such as ozone depletion, deforestation, and wildlife conservation can seem distant
and removed from everyday life, whereas the consumption of food is an activity that all
humans (ideally) engage in daily.3 This daily interaction with food makes environmental
problems more relevant, immediate, and accessible to people than the abstract and
distanced environmental issues mentioned above.
Food is significant because it is the âmost elementary and simultaneously the most âsocialâ
level of interaction with natureâ (Eder 1996 [1988], p.viii). The significance of food has
been recognised by some of the classical sociologists. For instance, Georg Simmel
explains that:
The fact we must eat is such a primitive and low-level fact in the development
of our life values, that it is without question something every individual has in
common with every other one. This is what makes gathering for a common
meal possible, and the overcoming of the mere naturalism of eating develops
on socialization mediated in this way. If eating were not such a low-level thing
it would not have found the bridge over which it rises to the significance of the
sacrificial meal, to the stylization and aestheticization of its ultimate forms
(Simmel 1957, p.250).
Cooking and eating are tasks that hold an importance far greater than simply fulfilling
physiological needs; they also represent a social activity and cultural form.4 This is evident
in research from social anthropology (see Douglas 1984; Goody 1982; Kuper 1997), which
reveals that âa commonly shared symbolic world is produced and reproducedâ (Eder 1996
[1988], p.ix) in the universal act of cooking and eating daily (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1970 [1964]).5
Food is a powerful symbolic form that is established by assumed patterns of knowledge
that are spoken through the expression of norms when we consume food daily (Goody
1982). It is evident that âfoodâ is a subject of great cultural significance, but at the same
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time it is essential to, and has numerous consequences for the natural environment (Taylor
2012).
Overview and Summary of Chapters
Food is becoming a significant feature of environmental problems, and, possibly in a
related manner, an emerging field of debate in sociology. However academic responses to
food as an environmental issue, sociological or otherwise, have thus far generally examined
food as an 'ingredient' of larger environmental concerns, rather than a matter to be focused
on in its own right. In this vein environmental sociology is like a cooking recipe, which
asks you to 'add food and stir' without questioning the very recipe, or in this case the
conceptual framework itself. However, because theoretical understandings underpin both
sociological research and social practices, it is critical that such theories be problematised
and debated as new issues come to light. This is what the present thesis aims to do.
This thesis is the initial stage of a larger research project. Its overarching premise is that
the social category and cultural meanings of food need to be included in any future
environmental sociology. Although as a preliminary step, the current study restricts its
scope to the examination of theoretical frameworks underpinning the sociology of the
environment and the emerging sociology of food, which are articulated as responses to the
nature/culture problematic in modernity. Since 'food' is essentially and simultaneously
'natural' and 'cultural' it problematises the nature/culture divide in a new way that requires
further inquiry. Therefore this thesis takes food as a heuristic tool to reproblematise and
rearticulate the nature/culture divide that underlines social theoretical frameworks of the
environment.
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The overall intention of this thesis is to critically analyse two âcase studiesâ in social theory
(authored by Claude LĂ©vi-Strauss and Klaus Eder respectively) that have studied food as a
major social category in relation to the nature/culture dualism. The purpose of this
comparison is to draw out and critically evaluate valuable insights from these texts that will
be rethought and reconstructed to consider the consequences they might have towards the
development of a new conceptual framework. This new framework will examine the
cultural meanings of food, and understand food as a serious environmental issue that
bridges the broader industrial sphere and our everyday lives. Hence this thesis provides a
first step towards an environmental sociology of food.
The current thesis specifically asks: âHow can the social category of âfoodâ help to
problematise the meanings of the nature/culture divide in modern society?â. Rethinking the
nature/culture divide is important because understandings and interpretations of the
culture/nature divide vary in time and space, and inform our social practices and encounters
with our natural environment. The underlying social interpretations of the nature/culture
divide are not often made explicit, but as this project ultimately aims to develop a new
theoretical framework, these understandings need to be made explicit and problematised.
To this end this thesis must be seen as the first step of a larger research programme that
ultimately aims to develop an environmental sociology of food. An environmental
sociology of food will contribute to the rethinking of broader theoretical frameworks in
social theory and environmental sociology. It is a preparatory step to reinterpreting and
reproblematising concrete social practices and cultural meanings concerning food and the
environment, which are needed for social change.
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The necessity of an environmental sociology of food will become much clearer in chapter
one, which will review the relevant literature from the sociology of nature, environmental
sociology, and the sociology of food. It will show that the sociology of nature was
developed as a response to the nature/culture divide in sociology, but it has neglected to
examine food as an important feature of this divide. The consequence of this inattention to
food is that the sociology of nature has strived to transcend the nature/culture dualism,
whereas by reproblematising the nature/culture divide with the social category food as a
central lens, the nature/culture divide does not need to be overcome. Instead the
nature/culture divide can become less of a dichotomy and more of an interplay that will
engage in both social constructionist and critical realist perspectives. The literature review
will also show that the sociology of food and environmental sociology have made
significant contributions to the sociological study of food. However neither field has
closely examined the concrete social practices, and the cultural meanings of food as an
environmental issue.
In chapter two the first case study is presented, which will hermeneutically reconstruct
Claude LĂ©vi-Straussâs The Raw and the Cooked (1970 [1964]) and his related essay âThe
culinary triangleâ (1966a). Specifically this chapter will consider LĂ©vi-Straussâs intellectual
sources, and will examine his structuralist approach that he used to develop his culinary
triangle. From this understanding LĂ©vi-Straussâs culinary triangle and his distinction
between nature and culture will be critically analysed to segue into chapter three.
In chapter three Klaus Ederâs The Social Construction of Nature (1996 [1988]) will be
critically analysed as the second case study of this thesis. This chapter will situate Ederâs
work into the wider debates of modernity and critical theory, and it will analyse Ederâs
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social constructionist approach to nature. From this perspective it will consider how Eder
links his interpretation of the relationship between nature, culture, and society to the
environmental problems of modern industrial societies, which will set a firm foundation for
the concluding discussion.
The concluding chapter, âThe Elementary Forms of Foodâ, will critically analyse LĂ©vi-
Straussâs The Raw and the Cooked (1970 [1964]) and his âThe culinary triangleâ (1966a)
together with Ederâs The Social Construction of Nature (1996 [1988]). It will extract
important insights from both of these texts, which will be rethought to consider how they
may contribute towards elaborating a conceptual framework for an environmental
sociology of food. As a result this thesis will establish the centrality of food in rethinking
the nature/culture divide, and it will determine that the social category and cultural
meanings of food problematises the nature/culture divide in a new way. The present thesis
will conclude by considering the future potential of this renewed problematic for both
theory and practice in modern society.
Methodology
This thesis will conduct a hermeneutical reconstruction of selected works by LĂ©vi-Strauss
and Klaus Eder. LĂ©vi-Strauss and Ederâs texts have been included for analysis because
they are two of the few works that explicitly consider the nature/culture divide and
recognise âfoodâ as a central category in their respective analyses.6 The present thesis
employs the methodology of textual analysis that draws on techniques from hermeneutics,
and also engages in the emancipatory intent of critical social theory. Hermeneutics and
critical social theory are contested theoretical approaches, and so it is important to clarify
and explain how these methods will be utilised in this thesis.
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Hermeneutics is the art and/or science of interpretation, which is primarily concerned with
analysing and deciphering the meaning of a text (Bauman 1978; Harvey & Myers 1995;
Radnitzky 1970). Although in the twentieth century it expanded beyond textual analysis
alone. It has a long history and was originally used to identify the truth and authenticity of
Biblical interpretations (Bauman 1978, p.1). Since then various forms of hermeneutics
have emerged, and these diverse approaches have been questioned and widely debated (see
Gadamer 1976; Habermas 1978; Ricoeur 1974; Thompson 1981). The twentieth century
saw the shift from hermeneutics as textual analysis to a hermeneutics that encompassed a
broader âphilosophical hermeneuticsâ (see Gadamer 1976, 1979a; Heidegger 1999; Ricoeur
1974), and later to a âcultural hermeneuticsâ found in some forms of interpretative and/or
cultural sociology (see Bauman 1978; Alexander 2003, 2007; Alexander & Smith 2001;
Arnason 1988). The hermeneutical differences between Paul Ricoeur (1974, 1981, 1991
[1986]) and Hans-Georg Gadamer (1976, 1979a, 1979b, 2006 [1970]) are important to the
methodology of this thesis, therefore a discussion of their perspectives is necessary at this
point.
Gadamerâs understanding of hermeneutics resulted from his critique of the earlier works of
Friedrich Schleiermacher (1987) and Wilhelm Dilthey (1989). Schleiermacher and Dilthey
subscribed to a form of âpure hermeneuticsâ, in which the interpreter needs to place
themselves in âthe mindâ of the author to recover the original intention and correct meaning
of the text (Schleiermacher 1987; Dilthey 1989). Gadamer disagreed with this notion and
argued that hermeneutics âis not a matter of penetrating the spiritual activities of the author;
it is simply a question of grasping the meaning, significance, and aim of what is transmitted
to usâ (1979a, p.147). Gadamer believed that a text must preserve its relationship to the
authorâs perspective, which is distinct to Ricoeurâs understanding of hermeneutics. Ricoeur
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argued that there is an essential difference between the hermeneutical tasks of written and
conscious communication (1991 [1986], p.107). He suggested that the text is considered as
an object of study separate from the authorâs intentions. He perceived texts to be âfull of
meaning, charged with latent philosophiesâ (Ricoeur in LĂ©vi-Strauss 1970 [1963]).7 This
is a central idea of critical hermeneutics, which argues that texts should no longer be
interpreted as closed or true forms. On the contrary, the task of interpretation always
remains open and available to various understandings, to such an extent that hermeneutic
interpretation is potentially infinite (Taylor 1985).
This thesis resonates more strongly with Ricoeurâs hermeneutic approach than Gadamerâs
perspective. It seeks to critically interpret the selected texts of LĂ©vi-Strauss and Eder,
rather than producing a commentary or exegesis of them. The present thesis interprets texts
as autonomous and independent from the authorâs erstwhile intentions. Hence it will
critically engage with LĂ©vi-Strauss and Ederâs respective works in a way that may exceed
their âexplicit intentions and open up areas of discussion to which, at first glance, they may
not readily lend themselvesâ (Adams 2011, p.12). This method is evident in the concluding
discussion, in which valuable insights will be extracted from LĂ©vi-Strauss and Ederâs texts.
Their ideas will be rethought as a first step towards developing a theoretical framework
more adequate in elaborating an environmental sociology of food. An environmental
sociology of food will have theoretical consequences and practical implications for modern
society, and in this way it draws on the emancipatory approach of critical social theory.
Critical social theory emerged during the Enlightenment and it has continued to exist
predominately in European scholarship (Elliott 2009, p.xiii). It is a wide-ranging
endeavour that questions and âopens upâ the very giveness of the social world, and our
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lives, to critical analysis and appraisal (Calhoun 1995; Elliott 2010). Calhoun states that
the main goal of critical social theory is to ask questions and move beyond the familiar
world, to discover new perspectives and possibilities of what society could be (1995, pp.1-
2). This central purpose stems from the work of German neo-Marxist academics of the
âFrankfurt Schoolâ (see Adorno & Horkheimer 2002 [1944]; Habermas 1989; Marcuse
1986).8 Critical theorists refuted traditional theory and the way it focused purely on
explaining and understanding society. In contrast they argued that the way the world is,
and the way we view the world, is a reciprocal relationship that influences and directs each
other. The Frankfurt Schoolâs critical theory had a unique approach to social research,
because it sought to bring about emancipation and change to society as a whole.
This understanding of critical theory emanated, to a great extent, from Karl Marxâs use of
the term âcritiqueâ in Capital (Marx 1954 [1893]). Marx established the idea of âcritiqueâ
as the critique of ideology, and he connected it to the practice of social revolution. This is
clear in his famous eleven âTheses on Feuerbachâ, in which he argues that, âThe
philosophers have only interpreted the world differently, the point is, to change itâ (Marx &
Engels 1970 [1845], p.199). Marxâs âEleventh Thesisâ is an age-old call for the social
theoristâs responsibility to do more than think about the world; they also need to inform
action (Lemert 2010, p.283). The purpose of critical social theory is not to simply diagnose
the ills of modern society, but to help change society for the better by discovering its
progressive features and dispositions (Carr 2000; Geuss 1981). In a similar vein, the
present thesis emerged from a critique of the environmental ills of the modern food system.
This thesis will now interrogate the meanings of the nature/culture divide with the social
category of food as a first step towards developing an environmental sociology of food. An
environmental sociology of food will have theoretical consequences, but it will also offer
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practical perspectives for modern society. As a result this thesis, and the future research
programme it proposes, adopts the methodology of critical social theory in conjunction
with hermeneutics to bridge theory with concrete issues of public concern.
A Note on Terminology
The fields of the sociology of nature, environmental sociology, and the sociology of food
are not only characterised by various theoretical approaches, but also by a variety of
terminology that can be ambiguous. In particular the âmodern food systemâ is a term that
has been widely used to conceptualise the full scope of the food industry. It encompasses a
series of processes involved in transforming raw materials into foods, and is often
described by phrases such as âfrom field to tableâ or âfarm to plateâ (Kneen 1989; Sobal,
Khan & Bisogni 1998). Food system models have been developed as conceptual tools for
analysing the relations between agricultural, industrial, economic, ecological, social, health,
and other aspects of food and nutrition (Beardsworth & Keil 1997; Germov & Williams
2008; Sobal et al. 1998). A variety of models have been developed that focus on various
aspects of the food industry: food chains (see Austin & Zeitlin 1981; Blanford, Carter &
Piggott 1993; Hitchcock 1980; King & Burgess 1993; Marion 1986); food webs (see
Senauer 1992; Silverstein 1984); food contexts (see Bowler 1992; Burns, McInerney &
Swinbank 1983); and food cycles (see Kim & Curry 1993; Kramer 1973). However these
food models often simplify the processes involved in the production, distribution, and
consumption of food, and generally fail to account for global, political, cultural, and
environmental concerns (Germov & Williams 2008, pp.11-12).
For this reason the current thesis applies the term âmodern food systemâ with reference to
Geoff Tansey and Tony Worsleyâs definition (1995). The modern food system
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conceptualises the connections between three distinct aspects of life: first, biological: the
living processes to produce food and their ecological sustainability; second, economic and
political: the power and control which different groups exert over the different parts of the
system; and third, social and cultural: the personal relations, community values, and
cultural traditions which affect peopleâs use of food (Tansey & Worsley 1995, p.2).
Throughout this thesis food is primarily understood as a cultural form. Cultural forms are
interconnected with notions of âsymbolic formsâ, and the most seminal discussions of
âsymbolic formsâ are found in the work of Ernst Cassirer (see Cassirer 1953). Hence, for
the purposes of this thesis âcultural formâ and âsymbolic formâ are used interchangeably.
Furthermore an essential point in the present thesis is that nature and culture are not just
âthingsâ or âfactsâ, rather they are always invested with âcultural meaningsâ that make them
ârealâ to us. Thus reference to the âsocial category of foodâ in this thesis actually denotes
âthe cultural meanings of food as a social categoryâ. With this in mind the subsequent
chapter will review the relevant literature from the sociology of nature, environmental
sociology, and the sociology of food to set a firm foundation for the discussion that follows.
1 The term âmodern food systemâ will be defined on p.15. 2 This has been an enduring critical concern in environmental debates (see Castoriadis 1981, 1985; Everdeen 1993; Simmons 1993). 3 Climate change was not added to this list, as in the view of the present writer, climate change is articulated as both âdistantâ and âcloseâ. It is distant in the sense that ordinary people do not feel they can do much to change it, but it is also close because it is experienced and noticed in peopleâs everyday life (through floods, changing temperatures etc.). 4 Due to the scope of this thesis, the present study will primarily focus on food as a cultural form, i.e. the meanings of food. 5 The terms âcultural formâ and âsymbolic formâ will be discussed on p.16. 6 The work of Ronald Barthes, particularly his essay âTowards a psychosociology of contemporary food consumptionâ (1997), was considered as an appropriate text for analysis, because in an arguably similar manner to LĂ©vi-Strauss, he examined foods in order to find an underlying code or âgrammarâ (1997, p.21). During the preliminary stages of this project, the merits of Barthes and LĂ©vi-Straussâs respective works were assessed in relation to the premise of this study. From this evaluation the present writer decided that LĂ©vi-Straussâs selected works were most suitable to the
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central question animating this thesis (i.e. How can the social category of food help to problematise the nature/culture divide in modern society?). 7 This discussion of hermeneutics was part of a famous debate published in Esprit (Ricoeur in LĂ©vi-Strauss 1970 [1963]) at the height of structuralism, and on the occasion of LĂ©vi-Straussâs publication of The Savage Mind (1966b). 8 The critical theory of the first and second generation of the Frankfurt School was a primary intellectual source for Eder, such that he is regarded as part of the third generation (Anderson 2011; Strydom 1993). Hence this discussion will be referred to in the analysis of Ederâs intellectual sources in chapter three.
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CHAPTER 1: Whatâs Cooking? Nature, the Environment,
and Food in Sociology For many years the nature/culture divide limited sociologyâs engagement with anything
beyond the âsocialâ. Alan Irwin indicates this was due to the underlying assumption that
nature and society are separable, and therefore social sciences concentrated on all things
âsocialâ and left ânatureâ to the natural sciences (Irwin 2001; Sutton 2004). However in
recent decades the impact of human societies on the natural environment has become a
topic of great sociological interest, to such an extent that nature, the environment, and food
have increasingly emerged as rich fields of study (see, for example, Ferguson & Zukin
1995; Franklin 2002; Johnston & Baumann 2010; Murcott 1983; Sutton 2004; Warde &
Martens 2000). This thesis asks how the social category of food and its various cultural
meanings can help to problematise the meanings of the nature/culture divide in modern
society, and it is a first step towards developing a conceptual framework of an
environmental sociology of food. Its ultimate premise is that food as a social category must
be integrated into any future environmental sociology. However as a preliminary project,
this thesis focuses on the interrogation of theoretical frameworks underpinning the
sociology of the environment and the sociology of food, which are articulated as responses
to the nature/culture problematic in modernity. In turn an environmental sociology of food,
on the one hand, will contribute to the rethinking of theoretical frameworks in social theory
and environmental sociology, and on the other, will help to reinterpret and reproblematise
the concrete social practices and cultural meanings of food and the environment, which is a
necessary precondition of social change.
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The present chapter will review the relevant literature from the sociology of nature,
environmental sociology, and the sociology of food. Firstly it will inspect why historically
ânatureâ was set outside the realm of sociological investigation. This literature review will
examine the different perspectives of the sociology of nature and environmental sociology,
and it will observe the key debates between social constructionists and critical realists. In
light of these debates this chapter will examine ways that sociologists have sought to move
beyond or rethink the nature/culture divide. It will highlight that in these various attempts
âfoodâ has been neglected as an important problematic of this dualism. The current chapter
will then consider the relevant literature from environmental sociology, which in many
ways has replaced the sociology of nature. In environmental sociology âfoodâ is emerging
as an important aspect of environmental problems, however it is commonly viewed as an
âingredientâ of larger environmental problems, rather than an issue that needs to be focused
on in its own right.
The present literature review will then turn to analyse the sociology of food. It will
consider the production and consumption âdivision of labourâ in the sociology of food
(Tovey 1997), and it will review two works that have set to overcome this division by
examining the nature/culture divide. This chapter will show that although the various
works from the sociology of food emphasise the significance of food, it is not clear that
they are examining âfoodâ in the same way. For this reason the present chapter will argue
that the sociology of food requires a theoretical approach to give the various perspectives a
common framework. The literature review will conclude by indicating the significant
contributions environmental sociology and the sociology of food have made to the
sociological study of food. However it will argue that neither subject has closely
examined the concrete social practices and cultural meanings of food as an environmental
20
issue. âFoodâ is increasingly viewed as a central aspect of environmental concerns, and so
this thesis will propose that food must be integrated into any future environmental
sociology.
The Sociology of Nature
âNatureâ, as Raymond Williams comments, âis perhaps one of the most complex words in
the English languageâ (1976, p.217). When one asks âWhat is nature in sociology?â the
answer is just as problematic, because the concept of nature is unclear and its meanings
have changed throughout history. Neil Everdeen establishes a difference between ânatureâ,
which is used when âreferring to the great amorphous mass of otherness that encloaks the
planetâ, and ânatureâ when âreferring specifically to the system or model of nature which
arose in the West several centuries agoâ (1992, p.xi). Kate Soper explains that nature is
differentiated from human and cultural domains, but it is also a concept that allows us to
question the ânatural or artificial quality of our own behaviour and cultural formationsâ
(1995, p.2).1 Nature is often opposed or viewed as an âotherâ to culture, society, and that
which is âartificiallyâ produced. This notion of nature as an âotherâ to humans and culture
has been manifest in sociology.
As a discipline sociology was created from the historical rise of industrial capitalism in
Western societies. Phil Macnaghten and John Urry explain that sociologyâs âkey concept
has been that of society [and it has] tended to accept certain a priori assumptions about the
consequent relationship between nature and societyâ (1995, p.203). Sociology has taken for
granted the triumph of such modern societies in their âspectacular overcoming of natureâ,
and has concentrated on describing and explaining âthe very character of modern societiesâ
(Macnaghten & Urry 1995). They argue that sociologyâs historical indifference to nature
21
has been largely due to the academic division of labour, which arose from the Durkheimian
tradition that sought to establish sociology as a separate science of human societies, which
could research and explain the social world autonomously (Macnaghten & Urry 1998, p.5).
A major aspect of this approach was to demonstrate that âsocial factsâ should be elevated
over the lower order facts from psychology or biology.2 The realm of social facts presumed
its distance from, and antithesis to nature (Dickens 1996; Catton & Dunlap 1978;
Macnaghten & Urry 1998). This arguably drew Durkheim and sociologists away from
investigating the relationship between the biological and the social (Sutton 2004). The
academic distinction between a world of social facts and one of natural facts remained
highly uncontested until very recently. The rise in concern for global environmental
problems through new environmentalist movements and green political parties (see
Touraine 1977, 1981) were important developments that encouraged sociologists to assess
their capacity to conceptualise social-natural relations (Sutton 2004, p.5).
In the past three decades sociologyâs interest in nature and the environment has expanded,
and it is now a burgeoning field. However for the purposes of the present thesis, this
literature review will limit its focus to the larger theoretical and conceptual understanding
of nature-society relations. It will draw upon Phillip Suttonâs (2004) conceptual distinction
between the sociology of nature and environmental sociology. Suttonâs variation between
the fields is:
For environmental sociologists, the discipline of sociology has to change if it
is to say anything significant about the looming âecological crisisâ, whilst for
[sociologists of nature], it is precisely the relatively detached and critical
character of sociology that is potentially able to bring something new to the
study of environmental issues (Sutton 2004, p.9).
22
These perspectives are not necessarily rigid polarised alternatives, however they currently
seem to be producing different perspectives to the study of nature, the environment, and
society. Underlying these fields is the polarised debate between critical realists and social
constructionists, which at this point requires a brief overview.3
Social constructionism is âthe bread and butterâ of sociology. A general notion of social
constructionism is that our experiences and interpretations of nature are, to a great extent,
socially produced (see Everdeen 1992; Hannigan 2006; Irwin 2001; Macnaghten & Urry
1998; Smith 1997; Tester 1991). 4 However social constructionism is used in a variety of
ways, and so a common distinction has been made between âstrongâ and âweakâ forms of
constructionism. Strong versions of constructionism argue that nature does not exist in an
unmediated form. Furthermore human concepts and theories of nature are open to change,
and so they always require interpretation (Sutton 2004, p.58). An example of this âstrongâ
perspective is Keith Testerâs passage from his work Animals and Society: The Humanity of
Animal Rights, in which he argues:
A fish is only a fish if it is classified as one, and that classification is only
concerned with fish to the extent that [it helps] society define itselfâŠ
Animals are indeed a blank paper which can be inscribed with any
message, and symbolic meaning that the social wishes (Tester 1991,
p.46).
Tester rejects the reality of fish and lowers them to the variable meanings and
interpretations that human societies give them. However very few social constructionist
studies of nature and the environment are as extreme as Testerâs perspective (Burningham
& Cooper 1999; Sutton 2004). The majority of social constructionists adopt a âweakâ
approach that acknowledges that nature does exist independently from humanityâs
23
interpretation, but they maintain that nature and the environment cannot be reduced to that
reality (Hannigan 2006, p.30).
It is the âreality of natureâ, particularly in regard to real-world environmental issues, that
has caused some environmental sociologists to critique social constructionism for not
providing a âsolid groundâ to analyse environmental issues. This approach is patent in the
recent work of some British-based sociologists and philosophers who argue for a critical
realist approach to study the relationship between the environment and society (see Benton
1993; Dickens 1996; Soper 1995, 2009). Critical realists are much more assertive about the
natural limits of human intervention and the inescapable reality of the environmental crisis.
Thus they seek to practice an environmental ethics and politics that looks beyond social
relations alone (Franklin 2002, p.6).
There are limitations in both of these âdeep-rootedâ perspectives, and so several sociologists
have endeavoured to move beyond these positions to develop new ways of investigating
nature and society relations (see Franklin 2002; Freudenburg, Frickel & Gramling 1995;
Goldman & Schurman 2000; Inglis & Bone 2006; Irwin 2001; Macnaghten & Urry 1998).
The general purpose of moving beyond dualistic thinking is to prevent partial knowledge
from one-sided perspectives. Sutton argues that in order to replace this dualism, we require
âways of connecting the social and the natural within a single framework that would enable
a new programme for sociologists interested in the environmentâ (2004, p.68). This idea is
significant because the present thesis argues that food simultaneously encompasses the
natural and the cultural, thus it can help to better elaborate the nature/culture divide in a
new way. With this in mind the literature review will now assess some leading attempts
that have questioned this divide, and in doing so will extract key ideas and identify gaps in
24
these approaches. This thesis will then seek to fill these gaps by rethinking the culture and
nature divide in modern society, as a first step towards elaborating a conceptual framework
better equipped to address the centrality and meanings of food.
In Macnaghten and Urryâs Contested Natures (1998) they claim to âtranscend the by now
rather dull debate between ârealistsâ and âconstructivistsââ (1998, p.2).5 They argue that
there is âno singular ânatureââŠonly a diversity of contested natures; and that each such
nature is constituted through a variety of socio-cultural processes from which such natures
cannot be plausibly separatedâ (Macnaghten & Urry 1998, p.1). Macnaghten and Urry
utilise a historical perspective of nature, such as âenvironmentâ, âcountrysideâ, or
âwildernessâ to reveal that they are cultural constructs with detailed time and space
aetiologies (1998, p.134). They note that sociology can provide insight into the socially
varied ways that nature and the environment can be viewed, interpreted, and evaluated
(Macnaghten & Urry 1998, p.19). Furthermore they suggest that the role of sociologists
studying nature should focus on âembedded social practicesâ, which âstructure the
responses of people to what is deemed to be the ânaturalââ (Macnaghten and Urry 1998).
The majority of their text is devoted to presenting the character and significance of these
social practices, and in doing so they indicate that our engagement with nature is âhighly
diverse, ambivalent, and embedded in daily lifeâ (Macnaghten and Urry 1998, p.2).
Macnaghten and Urryâs work is an important account of the nature/culture interface.
However this thesis draws on Adrian Franklinâs critique that Macnaghten and Urry
âconflate a sociology of nature with a sociology of nature leisure areas and tourismâ
(Franklin 2002, p.7). Macnaghten and Urry assert the importance of understanding nature
through âembedded social practicesâ, however they focus on nature in touristic and
25
distanced leisure areas, rather than our daily encounters with nature. Although this thesis
agrees with Macnaghten and Urryâs historical perspective and their emphasis on multiple
natures, it concurs with Franklinâs critique that:
The social accounts of nature understood as environment and tourism fail to
penetrate [the] everyday natures and produce skewed accounts of so called
attitudes and values on the natural world. Of course people will proffer a
view on the rainforests of the tropics, desertification or acid rain in Sweden
and they will have accounts of their occasional trips to more distant natures,
but assuming that nature is a space and zone at one remove from everyday
life is a poor way of understanding peopleâs relations with the natural world
(Franklin 2002, p.8).
A social account of nature(s) cannot only focus on âplaces of sacred pilgrimageâ, rather it
must consider everyday natures (Franklin 2002, p.8). This thesis proposes that the daily
practice of eating food is a significant way to examine how our âengagement with nature is
embedded in daily lifeâ (Macnaghten and Urry 1998, p.2).
Alan Irwinâs Sociology and the Environment (2001) also attempts to go beyond the social
constructionist and critical realist approach. Irwin specifically questions âWhat should the
relationship be between the discipline of sociology and the study of environmental issues,
problems, and concerns?â (2001, p.viii). In contrast to Macnaghten and Urryâs focus on
social practices, Irwinâs approach considers how hybrid environments are socially
constructed. He draws on a sociology of science perspective to examine the way
environmental problems have a hybrid or co-constructed character, which calls the
social/natural dualism into question (2001, p.26). Irwinâs co-construction approach refers
to the social construction of both the social and the natural. He suggests that researching
environmental issues requires investigating the social and the natural together as part of the
26
same ânature-culture nexusâ (Irwin 2001, p.174). Hence Irwin argues that not only does the
social construct the natural, but the social also constructs the social. In essence he argues
for a critical sociology of the environment, because he indicates that âultimately, the
sociological treatment advocated in this book stresses that environmental decisions are at
their core, a matter of social choiceâŠ[and] a sociological approach should shed light on
current institutional and technological assumptionsâ (2001, p.134). However the role that
Irwin suggests for sociologists is very similar to those offered by other social
constructionist accounts (see Burningham & Cooper 1999; Hannigan 2006). It is unclear
how âthe naturalâ plays an important role in Irwinâs co-construction of environmental
problems. Instead as Sutton explains, âwhat [we see] is the way âthe socialâ constructs both
the social and the natural, making it very difficult to see how ânatureâ plays any significant
role in the processâ (2004, p.73).
It is evident from this review that Macnaghten and Urry, and Irwinâs approaches do not go
beyond a social constructionist account of nature, and so their attempts to overcome the
nature/culture dualism are limited. Furthermore their responses to the nature/culture divide,
and others from the sociology of nature have neglected to examine food as an important
feature of this divide.6 This thesis therefore seeks to reinterrogate the nature/culture divide
with the social category of food as a central lens. However unlike Irwin, Macnaghten and
Urry, and other theorists that have sought to move beyond the nature/culture dualism, this
project does not seek to overcome this divide. Rather this thesis will argue that the social
category and cultural meanings of food problematises this divide in a new way, such that
the nature/culture divide becomes less of a dichotomy and more of an interplay that will
explore and reinterpret concrete social practices and cultural meanings concerning food and
the environment.
27
Environmental sociology
Recently some sociologists have become increasingly sensitised to the reality of
environmental problems and the ecological crisis. This has led to a reassessment of the
environment as a problem in its own right in sociology. A central part of this reappraisal
was Samuel Klausnerâs consideration of sociologyâs human exceptionalism doctrine (1971,
p.25). From this perspective Catton and Dunlap developed the term âHuman
Exceptionalism Paradigmâ (HEP) to refer to traditional sociologyâs implicit worldview,
which believed human-environmental relationships were unimportant to sociology because
âhumans are 'exempt' from environmental forces via cultural changeâ (1978, p.250). In
contrast to HEP they developed an alternative view termed the âNew Environmental
Paradigmâ (NEP) to emphasise the âeco-system dependence of human-societiesâ (Catton &
Dunlap 1978, p.250). The NEP showed that âsociology has to take seriously a dilemma
traditionally rejected â human societies necessarily exploit surrounding ecosystems in
order to survive, but societies that flourish to the extent of overexploiting the ecosystem
may destroy the basis of their own survivalâ (Catton & Dunlap 1978, p.250). As a result
environmental sociologists began to study the social factors that cause environmental
problems, the social impacts of those problems, and they also offer and critique efforts to
solve environmental problems.
In the 1990s the development of environmental sociology saw the long-standing debate
between social constructionists and critical realists begin to settle. Both positions came to
accept the reality of environmental problems, even though our awareness of environmental
issues arose from scientific research, media attention, and activism from environmental
movements (Buttel 1987; Harper 2001; Pepper 1996). As a result of these shifts, the
sociology of nature was generally replaced by environmental sociology. Environmental
28
sociology has âbloomedâ into a burgeoning field that examines nature and the environment
differently to the work considered in this chapter hitherto. However these works exceed the
horizon of this thesis, and will only be given a brief consideration.
Several theorists have studied public attitudes towards specific environmental problems
(see Dowler et al. 2009; Murch 1971). Environmental movements have been a central
topic of concern in many sociological studies (see Touraine 1977, 1981). Furthermore
ecofeminist theories have explored the relationship between women and nature as a central
theme (see Daly 1979; Gaard 1993; Griffin 1980; Haraway 1991). The concept of risk and
environmental problems has also been considered as an important issue in social theory
(see Beck 1991, 1992, 1995, 1996, 1999; Goldblatt 1996; Lash & Urry 1994). Others have
been interested in green politics as a form of postmodern politics (Coates 1998; Gare 1995).
Sociologists have also recently made significant contributions to the study of climate
change (see Giddens 2009; Lever-Tracy 2008; Lever-Tracy & Pittock 2010; Urry 2010a,
2010b, 2011).
It is clear from the variety of literature mentioned above that interest in nature and
environmental issues has expanded rapidly. This literature review will now consider how
environmental sociologists have discussed the topic of food in order to identify gaps in the
literature. Recent works have considered how the application of new biotechnologies,
particularly those related to agricultural production and food (genetically modified food
products), have led to new challenges for environmental movements (see Kousis 2010;
Lezaun 2004; Schurman 2004). Food has also been a central aspect of work on sustainable
consumption. Environmental sociologists have examined the rise of fair trade food
products and energy-saving light bulbs as emerging forms of âgreen govermentalityâ
29
(Rutherford 2007). They have also questioned how sustainable consumption should be
governed, as it has become âfashionableâ in Western societies, but is âdeeply marred by the
continuing inequalities inherent in its uptakeâ (Hinton & Goodman 2010, p.245; Fuchs &
Lorek 2005; Goodman 1999; Trentmann 2007). The relationship between animals and
human culture in terms of food products has also arisen as an important topic for
sociological analysis. Environmental sociologists have considered how the global
consumption of meat and the rearing of animals as livestock reveal something about human
societyâs relationship with non-human animals (see Cudworth 2003; Franklin 1999; Tovey
2003; Warde 1997). Furthermore several works have studied how the culture of meat-
eating has accelerated contemporary environmental problems, including climate change
(see Pimental & Pimental 2003; Taylor 2012).
It is evident from the literature considered above that food in environmental sociology is
budding as an important aspect of environmental concerns. However this thesis argues that
in these approaches food is commonly viewed as an âingredientâ of larger environmental
problems rather than an issue to be focused on in its own right. In this way environmental
sociology is like a cooking recipe which asks you to âadd food and stirâ without questioning
the very recipe, or in this case the theoretical framework itself. The present thesis therefore
argues that an environmental sociology of food is required to examine food as a serious
environmental issue that intersects both the broader industrial sphere and our everyday
lives. In order to achieve this it must reinterpret and reproblematise concrete social
practices and cultural meanings concerning food and the environment. Food must be
integrated into any future environmental sociology. However as this thesis seeks to rethink
the culture and nature divide in light of the sociology of food, this chapter will now turn to
consider this emerging field.
30
The Sociology of Food
âFoodâ is a complex and multi-faceted issue with enormous cultural significance. Food
products themselves shift from âagriculture to culture, from farm to plate, from eating to a
mealâ (Ferguson 2005, p.700). Each of these movements require sociological analysis as
they all traverse broader social issues including, government regulation, production and
consumption, labour and gender, and the social relations of immigration (see Belasco 2002;
Germov & Williams 2008; Mintz 2002; Ward, Coveney & Henderson 2010; Wendell
1981). These matters are of great sociological interest because they are central to the
development, structure, and functioning of society. John Germov and Lauren Williams
explain that a sociological study of food generally examines:
The role played by the social environment in which food is produced
and consumed. This does not mean that individual choice and personal
taste play no role. Rather, because social patterns in food habits exist, a
sociological explanation is helpful in understanding the social determinants
of why we eat the way we do (Germov & Williams 2008, p.6).
However only a short time ago the sociological imagination did not spare much thought for
food. In view of this âglutâ of knowledge âripeâ for the sociological âpickingâ, this literature
review must first question: Why has the sociology of food been neglected for so long?
(Ferguson 2005; Ferguson & Zukin 1995; Johnston & Baumann 2010; Murcott 1982, 1983;
Warde & Martens 2000). A central reason for sociologyâs limited engagement with food is
largely due to the nature/culture divide that was discussed earlier. In this vein Deane
Curtin and Lisa Heldke (1992) suggest that the lack of sociological interest in food may
have derived from the Western intellectual dualism that emphasises cognition over
embodiment, and depreciates the material and practical nature of human life. This dualism
has a gendered dimension, as the sphere of food was once regarded as part of the private
and supposedly less salient world of women, such that food was only considered worthy of
31
attention once it was conceptualised in the field of men, markets, and production (Johnston
& Baumann 2010).
Despite this historical neglect, sociologists have increasingly come to acknowledge the
importance of food in social life, shedding light on how food plays a vital role in the
creation of meaning and the construction of bonds of solidarity and attachment (Ferguson
2004; Mennell, Murcott & van Otterloo 1992; Warde 1997; Wood 1995). The 1980s saw
the production of many of the pioneering works in the sociology of food (see Goody 1982;
Mennell 1996 [1985]; Mintz 1985; Murcott 1982), many of which were inspired by social
anthropologists Mary Douglas and Claude LĂ©vi-Strauss, who well before sociology,
understood that food had âmeaningâ (see Douglas 1978 [1975]; LĂ©vi-Strauss 1970 [1964];
1966a). By the end of the 1990s the field really began to flourish because sociologists
recognised the taken-for-granted nature of everyday food practices (Murcott 2011, p.15).
Furthermore in the last decade the sociology of food has expanded to such an extent that
food sociologist Pricilla Ferguson who earlier bemoaned, âWhy is there no sociology of
food?â, happily declared in 2005 that ââFood Studiesâ has arrivedâ (Ferguson & Zukin
1995; Ferguson 2005, p.679).
When sociologists study food the focus has not been on particular culinary practices or
cooking techniques, but on investigating the social conditions of food production and
consumption methods; examining the general discourses of food symbolism and food
choices; and interpreting the cultural context of food customs and preferences (see
Beardsworth & Keil 1997; Germov & Williams 2008; Johnston & Bauman 2010; Wills
2011). It also considers the connection between food and human interaction, and
investigates how food is talked about, discussed, and understood in the public realm (see
32
Albala 2002: Anderson 2005; Atkinson 1980; Blank 2007; MÀkelÀ 2000; Montanari 1994;
Murcott 1983). The increasing number of sociologists producing food literature has opened
up an exciting realm of scholarly discovery (Ferguson 2005). For this reason this chapter
will now explore selected works from the sociology of food.
It is evident from the above synopsis that the sociology of food is developing into an
emerging field. Although this is an advantageous development, it also makes the means of
charting the territory of food studies a rather complex task, as the food system is rich with
âinterconnected phenomenaâ (Ferguson 2005, p.680). For this reason this thesis will focus
on selected debates in the field, by reviewing what Hilary Tovey (1997) refers to as the
production/consumption âdivision of labourâ within the sociology of food. On one side of
this divide, there are sociologists that would locate themselves within rural sociology, and
investigate the organisation of agriculture and food production (see Goodman 1999; Harris
1969; Tovey 1997). On the other side, there are sociologists who would align themselves
with the sociology of consumption, and study eating, diet, and culture (see Atkinson 1980;
Caplan 1997; Johnston 2008; Johnston & Baumann 2010; Johnston & Szabo 2010; Warde
1997).
This division is imbalanced because of the âconsumption turnâ in sociology and as a result
the sociology of food has given limited attention to the social, economic, political, and
environmental features of food production (Tovey 1997, p.21). An early exception to this
is Goodman and Redcliftâs Refashioning Nature (1991), which considers both food
production and food consumption as part of the modern food system. In this manner they
attempt to connect transformative shifts in food production technology to changing
consumer concerns about food. As the sociology of food has grown, more literature has
33
been produced that attempts to rise above this division. However the main motivation to
study the production of food often appears to be a way to incorporate the topic of food into
a general sociological analysis of contemporary processes of change and restructuring in
the global economy (Tovey 1997, p.22). Tovey explains that âthe undoubted strength of the
approach derives from its treatment of food as comparable (and different in comparable
ways from) any other commodityâ (1997, p.22). A major limitation of this approach is that
food is merely viewed as another commodity, such that food as a social category, loaded
with cultural meanings, is not taken into consideration.
In recent times the growth of alternative food networks has caused sociologists to rethink
food production and consumption perspectives (see Dowler et al. 2009; Goodman 1999;
Marsden 2000; Tovey 1997).7 This chapter will now review two specific works that sought
to rethink this approach by questioning the nature/culture divide. Food sociologists have
been apprehensive about finding the most effective way to interpret alternative food
systems and their internal relationships. Two central aspects of this impasse are the rise in
sociological interest in the consumption side of food, and the need to include ânatureâ more
successfully into conceptualisations of food (Marsden 2000).
David Goodmanâs article âAgro-food studies in the âage of ecologyââ (1999) begins by
considering this impasse. He premises that the theoretical understanding and political
relevance of food and agricultural studies are limited by the nature/society dichotomy that
views nature as external to the social domain (Goodman 1999, p.17). Goodman asserts that
this dualism reinforces the objectification of nature and weakens analytical, political, and
ethical engagement. He considers actor-network theory as a way to overcome this
deficiency, because it provides theoretical tools to address the nature/culture divide.
34
Goodman argues that food as a co-production is the crucial unifying material and symbolic
connection that bridges the natural and social together (Goodman 1999, pp.33-34). The
notion that âfoodâ is simultaneously material and symbolic, and therefore can be helpful to
interrogate and potentially bridge the natural and cultural divide is a central premise of this
thesis, which will run like a Leitmotif throughout following chapters, and will be discussed
in greater detail in the concluding discussion.
Despite Goodmanâs sound intent, his use of actor-network theory on further consideration
is quite limited. Terry Marsden critiques Goodmanâs approach and argues that more
cautious steps are required to build a social and ecological approach to alternative food and
agricultural developments (2000, p.20). Marsden recognises that nature and ecology must
indeed be an essential part of a more social and politically materialised approach, but he
argues that there are many ways that this can progress (2000, p.21). Marsden explains that
Goodmanâs use of actor-network theory is uncritical and does not provide a clear
explanation of how the nature/culture dualism could be overcome (Marsden 2000, p.21).
He indicates that actor-network theory remains methodologically firm, but needs to be
linked with more substantive theoretical questions (Marsden 2000, p.28). As a result of this
critique he argues for the continued development of a social constructionist approach that
could build upon aspects of actor-network methodology, and connect it to substantive
theoretical dimensions and empirical studies (2000, p.21).
Marsden questions whether other approaches on top of actor-network theory are worth
considering in order to achieve a greater understanding of the hybridity of social and
natural life (2000, p.21). These questions lead Marsden to a major tension in the sociology
of food literature, specifically:
35
Dealing with this dichotomy â between the natural and cultural attribution
of value of food goodsâŠhold[s] and project[s] varying natural and social
conceptions of the same food objects. The analytical question that such a
dichotomy raises is how are these differences in the hybridity of foods, on
the one hand, and the range of associated actors on the other, brought
together? (Marsden 2000, p.26).
Research on food and agriculture often uses this as the start point of their analysis. In the
sociology of food researchers face a central issue when examining hybridity, as food
products from âconception to digestionâ are hybridised in various ways and by numerous
actors, as they travel through the food system (Marsden 2000, p.26). This is an exciting
process for sociologists because of the way in which the same object is constantly
acculturated (see Ferguson 2005; Marsden 2000). These dialectics have not yet been
rigorously engaged with in the current literature from the sociology of food and agriculture.
Marsden suggests that we need to âbuild upon a more asymmetrical and differentiated
understanding of food as a natural, social, and political constructionâ (Marsden 2000, p.28).
Goodman and Marsdenâs respective works analyse the theoretical framework of agriculture
and food studies by explicitly examining the nature/culture dualism. They explain that the
nature/culture divide must first be considered in order to ârespond fully to new ethical and
relational issues raised by environmental groups and urban food movementsâ (Goodman
1999, p.18). In this manner they identify with the growing literature from the sociology of
nature that challenges the abstraction of nature and promotes the âgreeningâ of social theory
(see Benton 1993; Irwin 2001; Macnaghten & Urry 1998). In a similar manner this thesis
seeks to interrogate the nature/culture divide with the social category of food, and argues
that our understandings and interpretations of the nature/culture divide inform our social
practices and encounters with the natural environment. Therefore like Goodman and
36
Marsden, this thesis will explicitly examine the nature/culture divide, but it does not
consider this approach as a way to interpret alternative food systems. Rather it more
broadly examines the underlying social interpretations of the nature/culture divide as a first
step towards the development of an environmental sociology of food.
The sociology of food has developed into a widespread topic that encompasses a variety of
theories, perspectives, and interpretations.8 This sheer abundance of food literature has
presented some challenges, which will now be considered. This literature review has
shown that when food is analysed sociologically, we are not just referring to what we eat,
but what we âthink about, talk about, dream about, and philosophize aboutâ (Johnston &
Baumann 2010, p.43). A central tenet of the sociology of food is to investigate what food
means and what it represents (Wills 2011, p.16). Ferguson explains the complexity of food
when she describes:
The inherently unstable character of comestibles, along with the material
destruction required by their consumption, dictates the many forms that food
assumes in the world we live in. From production to consumption, from
material to symbolic, food is all about transformation â of the material
foodstuff, of the consuming individual in body and in spirit, and of the eating
order that encompasses products and people. From production and preparation
to physiological and symbolic consumption, every stage of the food cycle turns
food into something else (Ferguson 2005, p.680).
Food is never âjustâ food, and this topically of food has resulted in great debate (Ferguson
2005; Goodman 1999; Marsden 2000). These debates question how food should be
academically researched, and specifically ask: âDoes food serve as the subject or object of
explanation?â, and âIs food considered a given or a social construct?â (Ferguson 2005,
p.680). It is clear from this literature review that a position has been made for food in
37
sociology. All of the texts reviewed in this section share a mutual focus on food, however
it is not always clear that they are talking about the same thing in a useful way (Ferguson
2005, p.680). In light of this understanding this thesis suggests that the sociology of food is
lacking a theoretical approach to give these studies a common denominator. In response to
these debates and this critique, the present thesis argues that âfoodâ is inherently both a
natural object and a cultural subject, and it therefore provides a way to rethink the
intersections of the nature/culture divide.
The literature review has navigated through and assessed the strengths and limitations of
the relevant literature from the sociology of nature, environmental sociology, and the
sociology of food. As a result the current thesis proposes that a new social theory is
necessary to address the deficiencies of these fields. This thesis argues that our implicit
interpretations and meanings of the nature/culture divide inform our social practices and
encounters with the natural environment. Therefore a first step towards developing a new
conceptual framework is to return to the nature/culture divide, and to reproblematise it with
the social category of food as a central lens. For this reason the following chapter will
hermeneutically reconstruct Claude LĂ©vi-Straussâs The Raw and the Cooked (1970 [1964])
and âThe culinary triangleâ (1966a) to examine how he has conceptualised âfoodâ and the
nature/culture dualism together.
1 Kate Soper is a philosopher, however she has contributed to key debates in the sociology of nature and environmental sociology from a critical realist perspective (see Soper 2009). 2 For Durkheim, social facts are âthe proper field of sociologyâ (2002 [1895], p.12). A social fact is âany way of acting, whether fixed or not, capable of exerting over the individual or external constraintâ (2002 [1895], p.117). Inter alia they are evident in the form of customs, beliefs, morality, and law (Hannigan 2006, p.6). 3 Critical realist and social constructionist perspectives are not the only approaches to nature and the environment in sociology, however they will be focused on for purposes of the present thesis. 4 Social constructionism will be returned to in chapter three, which will analyse Klaus Ederâs unique social constructionist approach in his work The Social Construction of Nature (1996 [1988]).
38
5 The terms âconstructionistâ and âconstructivistâ refer to the same notion/perspective, the present thesis uses the former term, while Macnaghten and Urry (1988) adopt the latter. 6 For other theorists from the sociology of nature that have responded or sought to overcome the nature/culture divide (see Franklin 2002; Freudenberg, Frickel & Gramling 1995; Goldman & Schurman 2000; Inglis & Bone 2006; Macnaghten & Urry 1998; Murphy & Dunlap 2011; Pickering 1996). 7 Alternative food systems are more ânon-conventional chainsâ that generally refer to those connected with organics and âradically different organizational structuresâ, such as food co-ops, farm-assured schemes, and ethical trading (Marsden 2000, p.20). 8 It is important to mention that there are numerous sociological works that study food differently to those discussed in this chapter. However these texts are beyond the scope of this thesis, and will only receive a brief acknowledgement. Some scholars have explored the connection between food and gender identities (see Bentley 2005; Inness 2001; Nath 2011); others have investigated the links between food, race, and ethnicity (see Ray 2004; Williams-Forson 2006); the impact of globalization on the modern food system (see Barndt 2002; Friedman 1993; Mintz 2002, 2008; Ritzer 2004; Scholosser 2002; Wilk 2002, 2006); the role of food in the media and popular culture (see Ferry 2003; Parasecoli 2008); the historical development of the modern food system (see Albala 2002; Boisard 2003; FerriĂšres 2003; Goody 1982; Mennell 1996 [1985]; Serventi & Sabban 2002; Toussaint-Samat 1992; Wheaton 1983); and there has also been a burgeoning study into ethical food consumption and alternative food choices (see Blank 2007; DuPuis & Goodman 2005; Guthman 2003; Johnston 2008; Johnston & Szabo 2010; Moore 2006; Smith 2006; Warde 1997).
39
CHAPTER 2: The Structuralist Language of Food:
Claude LĂ©vi-Strauss
This chapter will consider Claude LĂ©vi-Straussâs The Raw and the Cooked (1970 [1964])
together with its succeeding article âThe culinary triangleâ (1966a) (Hereafter referred to as
RC and CT respectively) in order to examine how they contribute to reproblematising the
nature/culture divide in modern society.1 LĂ©vi-Straussâs work has been selected for
analysis because, although he is an anthropologist, RC is one of the few texts that explicitly
considers the nature/culture divide and recognises âfoodâ as a central category in its
analysis. Stephen Mennell notes that RC and CT have âtransfixed almost everyone working
on the subject [of food]â (1996 [1985], p.6), to such an extent that it has expanded beyond
anthropology and has became a foundational text for the emerging field of the sociology of
food (see Beardsworth & Keil 1997; Ferguson & Zukin 1995; Mennell 1996 [1985]).2 In
LĂ©vi-Straussâs CT he presents a structuralist study of culinary practices to show that âthe
cooking of a society is a language [that] unconsciously translates its structureâ (1966a,
p.595).3 As a result food sociologists generally acknowledge that LĂ©vi-Strauss introduced
them to âhow good food is to think withâ (Ferguson 2005, p.681).4 This chapter focuses on
LĂ©vi-Straussâs RC and CT because he has made a seminal contribution to the central
question animating this thesis (i.e. âHow can the social category of âfoodâ help to
problematise the meanings of the nature/culture divide in modern society?â). For this
reason the present thesis will analyse his connection between the techniques of cooking and
his distinction between nature and culture. In the concluding chapter this analysis will be
revisited to reconstruct how LĂ©vi-Straussâs work, together with Ederâs, contributes to a
rethinking of the culture/nature divide with the social category of food. It will be a first
40
step towards developing a theoretical framework that can underpin an environmental
sociology of food.
This chapter will conduct a hermeneutical reconstruction of LĂ©vi-Straussâs texts. It will
consider RC and how this investigation of myths led LĂ©vi-Strauss to note the significance
of cooking practices in understanding society. The discussion of RC will set the foundation
for an analysis of CT, because in this essay he focuses on food and the notion of the ârawâ
and the âcookedâ in detail. Prior to this analysis the present chapter will provide an
overview of LĂ©vi-Straussâs intellectual biography, and it will justify the selection of this
classical anthropologist with reference to the French social theory tradition. The present
chapter will consider Ferdinand de Saussure (1974 [1916]), and Roman Jakobsonâs (1956)
linguistics, which were essential intellectual sources for structuralism in general, and
particularly in the development of RC and CT. It will then consider LĂ©vi-Straussâs
interpretation and use of structuralism in RC, and from this understanding CT will be
critically analysed. Lastly the limitations of LĂ©vi-Straussâs distinction between nature and
culture will be assessed, which will facilitate the transition into Klaus Ederâs cultural and
symbolic approach in chapter three.
Intellectual Biography
In preparation for the critical analysis of LĂ©vi-Straussâs works, this chapter must first
consider his intellectual biography to assist in contextualising RC and CT. Claude LĂ©vi-
Strauss was a French social anthropologist (1908-2009) and has been regarded as one of the
founding âfathers of modern anthropologyâ (Leach 1996 [1970]; Wiseman, Groves &
Appignanesi 1997). He lived in Paris and studied law and philosophy at Paris-Sorbonne
University. After he aggregated from philosophy he became a secondary school teacher
41
and taught in Paris until he was offered a role as a visiting professor of sociology at the
University of San Paulo (Leach 1996 [1970], p.18). During this time LĂ©vi-Strauss
conducted several research projects into the Mato Grosso and the Amazon Rainforest,
which he drew upon in later studies.
LĂ©vi-Straussâs first major text The Elementary Structures of Kinship (1969 [1949]) was a
play on the title of Emile Durkheimâs The Elementary Forms of Religious Life (1995
[1912]). LĂ©vi-Strauss drew on Durkheimâs idea of the âsocial factâ, which occurs over
and above the subject, and nearly has a life of its own, but LĂ©vi-Strauss aimed to âpurify it
of the presence of and necessity of subjects at allâ (Ortner 2006, p.108). In The Elementary
Structures of Kinship (1969 [1949]) LĂ©vi-Strauss sought to investigate how families were
organised by examining the logical structures that lie beneath relationships rather than their
contents (1969 [1949]). This text was well received and swiftly came to be considered as
one of the most significant anthropological works on kinship (Leach 1996 [1970]). From
this initial project, LĂ©vi-Strauss elaborated his structuralist perspective in several of his
subsequent works (see LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966b; 1969 [1962]; 1973 [1955]). His main theories
are set forth in Structural Anthropology (1963 [1958]), in which he considers culture to be
a system of symbolic communication. As a result of these works he became widely
recognised as one of the leading theorists in the structuralist school of thought (Leach 1996
[1970], p.30).
The term âstructuralismâ first came into use in the late 1920s in the work of the Russian
linguist Roman Jakobson (1956).5 It was not until the mid-1950s that it became popular in
France through LĂ©vi-Straussâs work (1969 [1949]), but by the end of the 1960s
structuralism became widely recognised in countries outside of France (HĂ©naff 1998).
42
Structuralism generally denotes a method of interpretation and suggests that the structure of
human thought processes are the same in all cultures, and that these processes occur in the
form of binary oppositions (McGee & Warms 2012; Runciman 1969). LĂ©vi-Strauss sought
to uncover these underlying thought processes by studying kinship, myths, and, of
particular interest to the present thesis, food. Furthermore his structuralist approach
emphasised that features of culture need to be understood in terms of their relationship to
the entire system (McGee & Warms 2012; Sturrock 1993). This structuralist method was
fundamental in his master project, Mythologiques, a four-volume study of âthe logic of
mythâ. The first volume in this series is RC followed by From Honey to Ashes (1973
[1966]), The Origin of Table Manners (1978 [1968]), and The Naked Man (1990 [1971]).
In these works LĂ©vi-Strauss followed the cultural evolution of a single myth from the
Bororo tribe in South America through to North America, and then to the Arctic Circle
(pp.1-2). He embarked on this far-reaching project in his customary structuralist method,
as he examined the underlying structure of relations among the features of the myth, rather
than concentrating on the myth itself (p.164). LĂ©vi-Straussâs structural study of myths and
cooking in RC and CT will be analysed in greater detail shortly.
LĂ©vi-Straussâs work has been very influential for the social and human sciences, including
anthropology, philosophy, and sociology (see Barthes 1972, 1997 [1961]; Bourdieu 1990;
Derrida 1978; Foucault 1994). Nevertheless as LĂ©vi-Strauss is from the field of
anthropology it is necessary to justify the selection of his work in this sociological thesis.
In the discussion of LĂ©vi-Straussâs intellectual history thus far, the present chapter noted
that LĂ©vi-Strauss was engaged in philosophy and sociology before he become professor of
social anthropology at the CollĂšge de France. LĂ©vi-Straussâs disciplinary shifts are
significant, not because they were major changes in his academic trajectory, but because
43
they reveal how the French tradition of social theory is quite distinct to the German or
English tradition. French social theory incorporates the sociological perspective together
with philosophical, political, and anthropological viewpoints. The French traditionâs
interdisciplinary connections are particularly evident in the case of Durkheim, which will
now be considered.
Durkheim is celebrated as one of the âfounding fathersâ of sociology from his earlier works
(see Durkheim 1984 [1893], 2002 [1895]), however in his later writing he became
interested in the anthropological view (and the human condition) of society. This shift is
clear in the collaboration with his nephew Marcel Mauss in Primitive Classifications (1963
[1903]), which was the precursor to his âanthropological turnâ in The Elementary Forms of
Religious Life (1995 [1912]).6 Durkheim argued that human kind is a symbolising animal,
and through this symbolisation a civilising process occurs that connects each individual in
society (Rundell & Mennell 1998). In order to assert this Durkheim considered the
boundary between sociology and anthropology to be fluid (Rundell & Mennell 1998, p.21).
Durkheimâs thought was influential to Maussâs theories (see Mauss 1970 [1969]), which in
turn was very distinct, but nevertheless important in the formation of LĂ©vi-Straussâs work
(see LĂ©vi-Strauss 1987). This connection is clear in Maurice Merleau-Pontyâs essay âFrom
Mauss to Claude LĂ©vi-Straussâ (1960). As Merleau-Ponty explains:
Following the movement of Maussâs thought beyond what he said and wrote
we are looking at him retrospectively in the perspective of social anthropology.
We have already crossed the line which separates his thought from a different
conception of and approach to the social conception which is brilliantly
represented by Claude Lévi-Strauss⊠in which social facts are neither things
nor ideas; they are structures (Merleau-Ponty 1960, p.116-117).
44
LĂ©vi-Straussâs reinterpretation of Maussâs work played a central role in defining his early
intellectual course (Lechte 2008, p.111), which was facilitated by the interdisciplinary
constellation of French social theory. This tradition embraced interdisciplinary interaction
in such a way that the field of sociology and anthropology have intermingled and shaped
each other. In addition concepts from the field of linguistics were also important to the
formation of LĂ©vi-Straussâs structuralist approach in RC and CT. However the concept of
structuralism requires further elaboration, and so this chapter will now consider the initial
development of LĂ©vi-Straussâs approach in The Elementary Structures of Kinship (1969
[1949]), followed by a discussion of Saussure and Jakobsonâs linguistics.
In The Elementary Structures of Kinship (1969 [1949]) LĂ©vi-Strauss studies the link
between kinship and exchange. He examined a ceremonial custom of a meal from small
restaurants in the south region of France, in which a small bottle of wine is given to each
diner with their meal (1969 [1949], p.58). The wine each patron receives is similar to their
neighbours (i.e. they both receive the same amount of the lowest quality wine), however
LĂ©vi-Strauss observed that âthe contents of the wine will be poured out, not into the
ownerâs glass, but into [their] neighbours. And this neighbour will immediately make the
corresponding gesture of reciprocityâ (1969 [1949], p.58). LĂ©vi-Strauss viewed this
exchange and noted that the amount of wine, and the portion of food remains the same, but
âthe difference in attitude towards the wine and food is immediately manifestedâ (1969
[1949], p.58). LĂ©vi-Strauss explains that the bottles are identical in volume, the content is
similar, and each customer consumed no more wine than the amount they started with, and
so he indicates from an economic perspective no one has gained or lost (1969 [1949], p.59).
However he discerns âthere is more to the exchange itself than the things exchangedâ (1969
[1949], p.59). In this way âthe link between exchange and the âtotal social factâ is revealed,
45
since it is not what is exchanged that is important, but the fact of exchange itself, a fact
inseparable from the very constitution of social lifeâ (Lechte 2008, p.112). From this study
Lechte considers some significant ideas of LĂ©vi-Straussâs anthropology:
The first is the principle that social and cultural life cannot be uniquely
explained by a version of functionalism: cultural life is not explicit in
terms of the intrinsic nature of the phenomenon in question. Nor can it
be explained empirically by facts deemed to speak for themselvesâŠ
[rather] structuralist anthropologyâŠfocuses on the way elements of a
system combine together, rather than on their intrinsic value (Lechte
2008, p.112).
In this manner LĂ©vi-Strauss argues that symbolic structures of kinship, the exchange of
goods, and language are essential to understand social life. In order to gain a greater
understanding of these ideas, the present chapter will now consider the work of Saussure.
Saussure was interested in the deep structures of language rather than its content, and his
theory of langue and parole was especially significant to the formation of LĂ©vi-Straussâs
structuralist anthropology.7 Saussure used this theoretical pair to present the differences
between language as a âcoherent structure of differencesâ and language as it is âpracticed by
the community of speakersâ (Lechte 2008, p.180). He argued that language could not be
understood by its content, rather it needed to be viewed at the level of structure (Leach
1996 [1970]). Saussureâs central notion is that language is first and foremost a social
institution, and so he deemed the individual linguistic approach to be deficient. Saussure
observed the way language changes constantly, and as a result he argued that people indeed
form language, but they are equally formed by language (Lechte 2008, p.181).
46
In his Course in General Linguistics (1974 [1916]) Saussure endeavoured to produce a
âuniversal science of languageâ in which all communication corresponds to âunmoving
rulesâ (Ashley et al. 2004, p.3). Merleau-Ponty explains that in Saussureâs linguistics:
Structure is a concrete, incarnate system. When Saussure used to say that
signs are diacritical â that they function only through their differences,
through a certain spread between themselves and others, and not, to begin
with, by evoking a positive signification â he was making us see the unity
which lies beneath a languageâs explicit signification, a systemization which
achieved in a language before its conceptual principle is known (Merleau-Ponty
1960, p.117).
Saussure began his structuralist analysis of language by dividing it into smaller phonemic
units. He examined the units or signs that build any system of communication, to show that
these âsignsâ can be divided into two elements, the âsignifierâ and the âsignifiedâ (Saussure
1974 [1916], p.157). These two parts are symmetrical to each other and, in Saussureâs
system, a signifier is typically a word, either spoken or written, but it may also refer to an
image, sound, smell, or taste, while the signified is the mental concept or meaning.
Saussure argues that âthe relationship between the signifier and the signified is arbitraryâ,
because there is âno essential bond in language between word and thingâ (Lechte 2008,
p.180). David Morley clarifies that, for Saussure, meaning is solely a âfunction of
difference within a systemâ as the signs that we seek to understand are âpurely differential
and defined not by their positive content but negatively, by their relations with the other
terms of the systemâ (1992, p.67). Hence the signâs essential feature is in being what the
others are not, and from this notion Saussure postulates an unlimited series of differences. 8
Saussureâs concepts laid the foundations for the application of this system in the social and
human sciences, by allowing the focus of study to shift from detailing facts of human
47
behaviour and historical events to researching âhuman action as a system of meaningâ
(Lechte 2008, p.181). As Lechte explains, this:
Was the result of emphasising, at the broader societal level, the arbitrary nature
of the sign and the corresponding idea of language as a system of conventions.
Whereas a search for intrinsic facts and their effects had hitherto been made (as
exemplified when the historian supposed that human beings need food to
survive, just as they need language to communicate with each other â therefore
events turned out this way), now the socio-cultural system at a given moment in
history, becomes the object of studyâŠan approach that would generally attempt
to take seriously the primacy of the socio-cultural domain for human beings
(Lechte 2008, p.181).
For LĂ©vi-Strauss the application of this concept involves methodological classification of
difference and âseparation of the self and otherâ (Ashley et al. 2004, p.3). It requires a
strong distinction, in which the characteristics of one object, individual, or group are
viewed in sharp polarity to another, for example man/woman, black/white, or in the case of
RC and CT, the distinction between nature and culture.
LĂ©vi-Straussâs structuralist anthropology draws on this linguistic approach, as he considers:
In all languages of the world, complex systems of oppositions among phonemes
do nothing but elaborate in multiple directions a simpler system common to
them all; the contrast between consonant and vowel, by the workings of a double
opposition between compact and diffuse, acute and grave, produces⊠what have
been called the âvowel triangleâ and the âconsonant triangleâ:
(LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966a, p.597).
a u i
k p t
48
This concept requires an understanding of Roman Jakobson and Morris Halleâs (1956)
linguistic approach. Jakobson and Halle claimed that young children gain control of the
basic vowels and consonants in order to âgenerate meaningful noise patternsâ in a
standardised sequence (1956, p.38). They examined that a child first develops the
fundamental vowel/consonant opposition by recognising a contrast in âloudnessâ. A child
identifies that a vowel is a âhigh-energy noise and loud-compactâ, whereas a consonant is a
âlow energy noise and soft-diffuseâ (Jakobson & Halle 1956, p.38). LĂ©vi-Strauss made
strong claims for structural linguistics, because he perceived that other forms of cultural
expression, such as kinship systems, were categorised in a similar manner to the human
language (Runciman 1969, p.255). He argued that this methodological principle could be
transposed to other domains, and particularly to âthat of cookingâ (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966a,
p.587). These linguistic concepts are patent in RC and CT, and will be returned to in the
ensuing analysis. However at this point a brief comparison of Bronislaw Malinowskiâs
(1935) functionalist perspective of food to LĂ©vi-Straussâs might be useful.
Malinowskiâs study of the Trobriand Islanders investigated the meaning of food in their
society (1935). Malinowski studied the Trobriand society from a functionalist perspective,
as he identified that âgifts of foodâ were vital to âmaintain kinship bondsâ and ârelations of
powerâ among the Trobrianders (1935, p.101). From this observation he determined that
food production was central to understand how this society lived and functioned. However
when the functionalist approach was succeeded by structuralism, the study of food changed
significantly and the âmeaningâ of food become central. Alan Beardsworth and Teresa Keil
examined this change, and explain that:
The questions posed about food and eating from a structuralist perspective have
a different emphasis as compared to those posed from a functionalist viewpoint.
49
Rather than focusing upon practicalities and the social processes involved in
producing, allocating and consuming food, the structuralist gaze is directed towards
the rules and conventions that govern the ways in which food items are classified,
prepared and combined with each other (Beardsworth and Keil 1997, p.61).
LĂ©vi-Strauss, as one of the founders of structuralist anthropology, was central to this
theoretical shift as he argued that the universal aspects of human culture do not exist in
manifest and comparable facts or customs, rather they exist only at the level of structure.
Hence LĂ©vi-Strauss argued that we cannot discover anything from the comparison of
isolated cultural items. Rather it is the contrast between the items that provides the
information, because each item has significance only in relation to the others. From this
understanding he sought to contrast the patterns of these relations in order to observe the
links between sets of human behaviours (p.333). This is the structuralist method he utilised
in RC and CT, and so this chapter will now analyse these texts accordingly.
The Raw and the Cooked
RC is one of the seminal texts of structuralist anthropology. In his âovertureâ LĂ©vi-Strauss
explains that RC only describes âthe initial stages of a long journey throughâŠnative
mythologiesâ (p.1). He began by establishing a âkey mythâ from the Bororo tribe in South
America, which he compared to other myths of the same community, and then examined
them in contrast to the myths of the neighbouring villages. Eventually he explored some
eight hundred myths from the many indigenous populations of South America (p.1). From
opossums to parrots, cooking to Charivari, Rousseau to rainbows, Wagner to vultures, and
Jupiter to jaguars, LĂ©vi-Strauss managed to weave all these together âin a seamless webâ,
such that John Morton remarks that his reading of RC was like stepping into a strange
dream (1988, p.100). Yet amongst all the fantasy LĂ©vi-Straussâs structuralist analytical
objective is clear. His central idea is that myths cannot be understood in isolation, they
50
must be interpreted as part of a complete system of myths. A structuralist analysis of myth
systems requires an examination of all the common features of various myths and the
differences that connect them. LĂ©vi-Strauss argues that it is not the individual myth that is
important, rather he believes that we must view the relationship and variations between the
myths (p.4). He explains that:
I therefore claim to show, not how men think in myths, but how myths
operate in menâs minds without their being aware of the factâŠit would
perhaps be better to go still further and, disregarding the thinking subject
completely, proceed as if the thinking process were taking place in the
myths, in their reflection upon themselves and their interrelation (p.12).
In this way he posits that there is âone myth onlyâ because underneath the mĂ©lange of
mythical stories he identifies a binary universal structure, particularly that of nature and
culture (pp.4, 64-65, 164).
Cooking runs like a Leitmotif throughout RC as LĂ©vi-Strauss proposes that the key myth
from the Bororo tribe âbelongs to a set of myths that explain the origin of cookingâ, while
in others, cooking practices operate as symbolic markers that mediate between a series of
binary oppositions: heaven/earth, life/death, nature/society (pp.64-65). LĂ©vi-Strauss
explains that the purpose of RC is to show how empirical categories, âsuch as categories of
the raw and the cooked, the fresh and the decayed, the moistened and the burnedâŠ[can] be
used as conceptual tools with which to elaborate abstract ideas and combine them in the
form of propositionsâ (p.1). He determined through a systematic analysis of each myth
together, that several of the myths were on the same theme and function in terms of a
double contrast between what is raw and what is cooked, and between the fresh and the
decayed (p.142). A passage from RC in which LĂ©vi-Strauss contrasts the myths of two
tribes, specifically the Ge and the Tupi-Guarani, might be useful to clarify this concept:
51
The raw/cooked axis is characteristic of culture; the fresh/decayed one of
nature, since cooking brings about the cultural transformation of the raw, just
as putrefaction is its natural transformation. In the total system thus restored,
the Tupi-Guarani myths illustrate a more radical procedure than the Ge myths:
according to the Tupi-Guarani way of thinking, the significant contrast is
between cookingâŠand putrefactionâŠwhereas in the Ge myths the significant
contrast is between the cooking of foodstuffs and eating them rawâŠ[The]
dividing line between nature and culture is different, according to whether we
are considering the Ge or Tupi myths: in the former it separates the cooked from
the raw; in the latter it separates the raw from the rotten. For the Ge, then, the
raw + rotten relationship is a natural category, whereas for the Tupi the raw +
cooked relation is a cultural category (pp.142-143).
From this analysis LĂ©vi-Strauss determines that eating practices and âthe gustatory codeâ
occupy a privileged position, because the myths depict âthe origin of fire, and thus the
origin of cookingâ, and so LĂ©vi-Strauss explains âwe gain access to myths about manâs loss
of immortalityâ (p.164). LĂ©vi-Strauss considers that negatively or positively all of the
myths are about the origin of cooking food. This reveals âthe truly essential place occupied
by cooking in the native thoughtâ, as cooking marks âthe transition from nature to cultureâ
(p.164). From this point in RC the myths widen to consider the âcauses of manâs mortalityâ
(p.170). A comprehension of human mortality reaches far beyond the scope of this thesis.
For this reason this chapter will now view the conclusion LĂ©vi-Strauss draws in RC, and it
will then analyse CT, an independent essay that emerged from this investigation.
In RC, LĂ©vi-Strauss concludes that although myths may seem unique, they are simply one
particular instance of a universal law in human thought. LĂ©vi-Strauss proposes that myths
signify the mind that creates them, because they make use of the world, of which it is itself
52
a part (p.341). He explains that âthere is a simultaneous production of myths themselves,
by the mind that generates them, and, by the myths, of an image of the world which is
already inherent in the structure of the mindâ (p.341). It is evident that LĂ©vi-Strauss
recognises the honoured place that food held in the myths he analysed. He concluded that
cooking is a medium that reveals the unconscious binary opposition of nature and culture in
human thought. LĂ©vi-Strauss determined that through the act of cooking, people
communicate that they are cultured and human rather than âsavageâ or animal, or to put it in
LĂ©vi-Straussian terms that they were themselves âcookedâ instead of ârawâ (p.164).
In RCâs final chapter âThe Weddingâ (p.319-342) LĂ©vi-Straussâs premise that the binary
opposition of nature and culture is universal in human thought becomes much clearer. He
draws a comparison of primitive and traditional customs that contain notions of the raw and
the cooked, and notes that in several regions of France âthere is evidence of identical
customs intended to hasten the marriages of young men and women that have remained
celibate too longâ (p.334). LĂ©vi-Strauss examines these various customs, and discovers that
in the St Omer district, if a younger daughter is married first, her poor elder sister at some
point during the celebration would be âseized and placed on top of the oven so that she
might be warmed up, as the saying was, since her situation seemed to indicate that she had
remained insensitive to loveâ (p.334). He recognised that similar customs throughout
France existed, but in several areas of England the sanction was different, as the unmarried
sister was ordered to dance barefoot (p.334). In contrast again was the custom in the Upper
Forez, IsĂšre, ArdĂšche, and Gard areas of France, in which the unmarried elder brother or
sister were made to eat a salad of clovers and oats, or nettles and roots, which was termed
âmaking them eat saladâ or âmaking them eat turnipâ (p.335).
53
In LĂ©vi-Straussâs structuralist fashion he explained that rather than interpreting these
various customs individually, they must be compared and contrasted in order to âisolate the
common features and hope to understand themâ (p.335). In this manner LĂ©vi-Strauss
interprets the customs and argues that:
They all seem to depend, more or less on the contrast between the cooked
(oven) and the raw (salad), or between nature and culture, the two contrasts
being readily confused in linguistic usage. In eighteenth-century French âto
dance barefootâ might have been expressed by the phrase danser Ă cru (âto
dance rawâ); compare chausser des bottes Ă cru âto wear boots without
stockingsââŠIn English, âto sleep nakedâ can still be expressed colloquially
as âto sleep in the rawâ (p.335).
However LĂ©vi-Strauss realises these connections do not account for the first custom âthe
symbolic âroastingâ of the elder unmarried sisterâ, and so he endeavours to link this
tradition with other long-established âroastingâ customs and beliefs in remote societies. He
noticed that similar âroastingâ traditions existed in Cambodia, Malaysia, Siam, and various
regions of Indonesia, for women who had just given birth or reached puberty (p.335-336).
From this consideration LĂ©vi-Strauss indicates:
This rapid summary of customs, which ought to be systematically noted
down and classified, does at least allow us to suggest a tentative definition:
the individuals who are âcookedâ are those more involved in physiological
process: the newborn child, the woman who has just given birth or the
pubescent girl. The conjunction of a member of the social group with
nature must be mediatized through the intervention of cooking fire, whose
normal function is to mediatize the conjunction of the raw product and the
human consumer, and whose operation thus has the effect of making sure
that a natural creature is at one and the same time cooked and socialized
(p.336).
54
LĂ©vi-Strauss objected to the dominant idea that âtraditional customs are less logical than
primitive customsâ (p.337). He suggested that primitive customs continually function along
the same lines, that âthe âcookingâ of women and adolescent girls corresponds to the need
for their relations with themselves and the world to be mediatized by the use of
âhyperculturalâ utensilsâ (p.337). In contrast, European societies forced the unmarried
elder sister onto the stove, removed her shoes, and were feed with raw foods, should,
according to LĂ©vi-Strauss, be given opposite meanings.
From this comparison between traditional and primitive customs, LĂ©vi-Strauss surmises
âthat these interpretations, which have been so laboriously deduced from remote and
initially incomprehensible myths, link up with universal analogies which are immediately
perceptible in our use of words, whatever our native language happens to beâ (p.340).
LĂ©vi-Strauss argues that the distinctive character of myths results from the âmultiplication
of one level by another or several others, and which, as in language, serves to indicate areas
of meaningâ (p.340). In RC, LĂ©vi-Strauss emphasises that the relationship between cooking
practices and the nature/culture divide is manifest in both primitive and traditional
cultures.9 As a result he argued that âthe cooking of a society is a language [that]
unconsciously translates its structureâ (1966a, p.595), which led LĂ©vi-Strauss to explore
this connection in greater detail in his essay CT.
The Culinary Triangle
From the analysis of RC it is clear that the theoretical connection between cooking
practices and the nature/culture divide was a recurrent theme. The present chapter will now
analyse CT in which the above becomes a central focus. This essay is significant because it
demonstrates how cooking can be used to conceptualise the distinction between nature and
55
culture. It also argues that specific culinary activities can reveal âsociological and
cosmological differencesâ (Hage 1979, p.81). Furthermore, his concept of the culinary
triangle is important to this thesis because it has received broad recognition in the sociology
of food for its abstract element in the structure of food and food systems (Ferguson 2005,
p.686).
In CT LĂ©vi-Strauss observes that just as there is no human society without a spoken
language, so too is there no human society which does not, in some shape or form, process
its food by cooking (1966a, p.587). Although LĂ©vi-Strauss realised that each cultureâs food
products are highly diverse, he recognises that people organise and cook their food in a
similar manner. His culinary triangle is an abstract model that is independent of any
culture and intended to be universally applicable. LĂ©vi-Straussâs overarching aim in CT is
consistent with that previously concluded in RC, that âthe cooking of a society is a language
[that] unconsciously translates its structureâ (1966a, p.595). In CT he provides a detailed
structuralist analysis of cooking practices, and as a result he determines that the
differentiation between the raw and the cooked is a reflection of the universal binary
opposition of nature and culture in human thought.
LĂ©vi-Strauss begins his essay by providing an account of how he derives his cultural
generalisations from a linguistic foundation. He explains that âlike language, it seems to
me, that the cuisine of society may be analyzed into constituent elements, which in this case
we might call âgustemesâ and which may be organized according to certain structures of
opposition and correlationâ (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1963 [1958], p.86). âGustemeâ was a term LĂ©vi-
Strauss coined from the linguistic term âphonemeâ, which to recall from the earlier
discussion, was examined in the work of Saussure (1974 [1916]) and also in Jakobson and
56
Halleâs linguistics (1956). LĂ©vi-Strauss was interested in the idea that phonemes, which are
developed by binary oppositions of distinct phonetic sounds, establish meaning in everyday
language, and so he sought to apply this concept to the âlanguageâ of cooking (1966a).
Recalling Jakobson and Halleâs vowel and consonant triangles (1956), LĂ©vi-Strauss
develops a triangle of culinary practices with each apex corresponding to the categories of
the raw, cooked, and the rotten:
He suggests that the cooked is a cultural transformation (élaboré) of the raw, whereas the
rotten is a natural transformation (non-élaboré). He perceives that underlying the triangle
there is a double opposition between elaborate/unelaborate and nature/culture (LĂ©vi-Strauss
1966a, p.587).
However LĂ©vi-Strauss considers this initial triangle to be a structure of empty forms,
because it does not reveal anything about the cooking of any specific society. He
determines that it is only through observation that one can discover what the ârawâ,
âcookedâ, and ârottenâ mean. Through a multitude of examples from diverse cultures, LĂ©vi-
Strauss identifies that these meanings will not be the same everywhere (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966a,
p.587). Drawing on his knowledge of phonemes and linguistic triangles, LĂ©vi-Strauss
recognised that a âconcrete triangle [must be] inscribed within the abstract triangleâ (1966a
Figure 1 The Culinary Triangle (Primary Form) (Leach 1996 [1970], p.40)
57
p.587). He notes that in all cuisines food is not simply cooked, rather each foodstuff must
be cooked in one way or another. In the same way he observes that there is not one true
state of rawness. Only select foods can be consumed raw and usually raw food can still
only be eaten once selected, washed, chopped, or seasoned. In addition, rotting can only
occur through particular methods, whether spontaneous or controlled (for example blue
cheese) (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966a, p.587).
From this knowledge LĂ©vi-Strauss searches for three cooking methods to situate within the
raw, cooked, and rotten triangle. He returns to his study of myth and identifies that there
are two primary methods of cooking, the roasted and the boiled. LĂ©vi-Strauss then
questions:
In what does their difference consist? Roasted food is directly exposed to
the fire; with the fire it realizes an unmediated conjunction, whereas boiled
food is doubly mediated, by the water in which it is immersed, and by the
receptacle that holds both water and food. On two grounds, then, one
can say that the roasted is on the side of culture: literally, because boiling
requires the use of a receptacle, a cultural object; symbolically, in as much
as culture is a mediation of the relations between man and the world, and
boiling demands a mediation (by water) of the relation between food and
fire which is absent in roasting (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966a, p.588).
LĂ©vi-Strauss determines that behind the opposition of roasted and boiled is the underlying
binary opposition of nature and culture. However he identifies that a third term is required
to complete the culinary triangle, to which he believes the cooking technique of smoking is
the most appropriate. Smoking, like roasting, involves an unmediated process, but it also
differs from roasting, because, like boiling it is a slow method of cooking (LĂ©vi-Strauss
1966a, p.591). He observes that smoking is closest to the abstract category of the cooked,
58
and that it represents the most cultural method of cooking (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966a, p.593).
With smoking decided as the third culinary practice, LĂ©vi-Strauss establishes his developed
culinary triangle by situating these three cooking processes (roasting, boiling, and smoking)
onto the original triangle:
LĂ©vi-Strauss explains that within the primary model he traced another triangle that
represents the most elementary cooking recipes:
Roasting, boiling and smoking. The smoked and the boiled are opposed as to
the nature of the intermediate element between fire and food, which is either
air or water. The smoked and the roasted are opposed by the smaller or larger
place given to the element air; and the roasted and the boiled by the presence
or absence of water. The boundary between nature and culture, which one can
imagine as parallel to either the axis of air or the axis of water, puts the roasted
and the smoked on the side of nature, the boiled on the side of culture as to
means; or, as to results, the smoked on the side of culture, the roasted and the
boiled on the side of nature (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966a, p.594).
LĂ©vi-Strauss considers that his two-dimensional culinary triangle shape might need to be
replaced by a complex three-dimensional tetrahedral form in order to account for all the
various cooking practices, such as grilling, frying, braising, and steaming. In addition this
structure could be enlarged to encompass the opposition of âanimal and vegetable
Figure 2 The Culinary Triangle (Developed Form) (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966a, p.594)
59
foodstuffs (if they entail differentiating methods of cooking)â (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966a, p.595).
The âdistinction of vegetables into cereals and legumesâ could also be added to the structure
(LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966a, p.595). Moreover he suggests that seasonings too, should be
positioned in regard to the inclusion or exclusion of salt and pepper on a given food product
(LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966a, p.595).
After considering these various cooking practices, which could continue to expand
infinitely, LĂ©vi-Strauss concludes that the most efficient way to utilise the culinary triangle
is to position it as a grille.10 In this way the culinary triangle may be superimposed on
numerous sociological, economic, or religious contrasts including: family and society, men
and women, village and bush, and sacred and profane (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966a, p.595). It is
clear that in RC and CT, LĂ©vi-Strauss provides an important argument for the underlying
meanings of food and the cultural significance of eating (Murcott 1982, p.209).
Nevertheless sociologists and anthropologists alike have frequently raised concerns about
LĂ©vi-Straussâs methodology and theoretical assumptions, which will now be considered as
a basis for a more detailed critique of LĂ©vi-Straussâs distinction between nature and culture
in the concluding discussion.
When RC was first published Morton recalls that it was met with both intrigue and
scepticism (1988, p.100). In the âOvertureâ of RC, LĂ©vi-Strauss rebuts censures of
formalism and idealism that were directed against the structuralist approach he developed
in Structural Anthropology (1963 [1958]). He justified his work by explaining that:
For this book to be worthwhile, it is not necessary that it should be assumed
to embody the truth for years to comeâŠI shall be satisfied if it is credited
with the modest achievement of having left a difficult problem in a rather
60
less than satisfactory manner than it was before. Nor must we forget that
in science there are no final truths. The scientific mind does not so much
provide the right answers as ask the right questions (p.7).
However Morton asked âcan a project of the scope of Mythologiques escape the charge of
seeking âa total mythological pattern?ââ (1988, p.101). Mortonâs question is answered in
the final pages of RC as LĂ©vi-Strauss does indeed draw a conclusion beyond establishing a
fruitful viewpoint for the analysis of myths. He reveals his intention in RC when he states:
If now asked to what final meaning these mutually significative meanings
are referring - since that in the last resort and in their totality they must refer
to something - the only replyâŠis that myths signify the mind that evolves
them by making use of the world of which it is itself a part (p.341).
Many believed that LĂ©vi-Straussâs approach would lead to an important discovery, however
most were unwilling to accept his conclusion that myths were generated by âan image of
the world which is already inherent in the structure of the mindâ (p.341). For this reason
this chapter will now view two major critiques of LĂ©vi-Straussâs concepts. The first on the
limitations of his transcultural approach, and the second will consider the deficiency of his
structuralist methodology based on linguistics.
The first limitation of LĂ©vi-Straussâs work is his transcultural approach. As previously
considered, the intention of LĂ©vi-Straussâs analysis is to show that beneath the diversities of
culinary culture there is an implicit common structure (1966a, p.595). Mary Douglas (1978
[1975]) questions LĂ©vi-Straussâs belief that it is more useful to examine the widespread
similarity between cultures, rather than observing the differences between them. She
indicates that LĂ©vi-Strauss âtakes leave of the small-scale social relations which generate
the codification and are sustained by itâ (Douglas 1978 [1975], p.250). In response LĂ©vi-
Strauss explains that his project is significant because he has found a way to identify
61
universal forms of human thought (p.341). However sociology is often wary and critical of
universal and grand theories of society as they do not address dynamic aspects of culture,
nor do they account for human individuality.
The second limitation is the methodological weakness of LĂ©vi-Straussâs culinary triangle
because his universal statements about cooking practices are only partially supported by
experiments that have tested his structuralist anthropology. Bob Ashley (et al.) critique
LĂ©vi-Straussâs concepts as they suggest that at times âthere seems to be a sleight of hand
operating with LĂ©vi-Straussâs explicationâ (2004, p.33). Adrienne Lehrer endeavoured to
trial the methods that LĂ©vi-Strauss used to construct his culinary triangle (1972). She
examined his establishment of the raw, the cooked, and the rotten, together with the
cooking techniques of roasted, boiled, and smoked. In this project she determined that
while her data confirms some of LĂ©vi-Straussâs conjectures, she found many others to be
amiss (Lehrer 1972, p.155). Lehrer scrutinises LĂ©vi-Straussâs opposition of nature and
culture, and the way he postulates boiling with culture and roasting with nature. She
considers LĂ©vi-Straussâs data as ambiguous, especially his metaphorical connection
between âboiledâ and âspoiledâ simply because it âresembles itâ (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966a,
p.594). She explains that this relationship cannot be confirmed in any way. LĂ©vi-Straussâs
culinary triangle is not a precise model of the way cultures generally categorise their own
cooking techniques, and so Lehrer determines âthere are dangers in generalising from
linguistic analysisâ (1972, p.169).
However LĂ©vi-Strauss is not arguing that these meanings are the same across all cultures.
He recognises that there are vast differences between diverse cultures, and as Stephen
Horrigan notes âempirical criticisms miss the pointâ of LĂ©vi-Straussâs workâ (Horrigan
62
1988, p.41). LĂ©vi-Strauss in fact argues that the nature/culture opposition can be
configured in various ways depending on the context of the food practices of diverse
cultures (Ashley et al. 2004, p.34). The strength of LĂ©vi-Straussâs argument proceeds from
his simple model, but as Ashley (et al.) recognise, âif this apparent simplicity is actually
generated by some rather crude conjectures along the way, then the legitimacy of the
culinary triangle itself begins to look rather precariousâ (2004, p.34). Furthermore there
has been doubt towards the foundation of LĂ©vi-Straussâs theory, specifically in his
application of Jakobson and Halleâs linguistic theory (Clarke 1981; Mounin 1974). Hence
it is clear that LĂ©vi-Straussâs generalisations from RC and CT are not the best approach to
interpret food cultures (Atkins & Bowler 2001, p.6).
This chapter has provided a detailed analysis of LĂ©vi-Straussâs structuralist study of food
practices in both RC and CT. Although several limitations in LĂ©vi-Straussâs methodology
and theoretical deductions have been identified, this thesis still considers LĂ©vi-Straussâs
distinction between techniques of cooking, and between nature and culture, as valuable to
the study of food. However this thesis concurs with the critique from Ashley (et al.), as the
nature/culture divide at the core of LĂ©vi-Straussâs work could be utilised in a more
adequate theory (2004, p.40). Cooking is indeed a method in which the raw materials
produced by nature are transformed into culture. Nevertheless this thesis finds a point of
contention in LĂ©vi-Straussâs trans-historical proposition: that the binary opposition of
nature and culture is a way to categorise all human food practices. The present thesis
instead surmises that the nature/culture divide lies beneath the dominant eating practices of
many societies, but it is not an organising principle that should be generalised to all human
societies, because the meanings and the distinction between nature and culture are not
historically fixed but have developed over time. Thus âour notions of nature and culture are
63
themselves âcookedââ(Ashley et al. 2004, p.40). This critique will be discussed in greater
detail in the concluding discussion, where it will be analysed together with Klaus Ederâs
The Social Construction of Nature (1996 [1988]). Ederâs text is significant to this historical
critique of LĂ©vi-Strauss, because Eder examines the nature/culture divide in relation to the
historical trajectories of industrial societyâs food practices.
1 All page numbers henceforth refer to RC except where otherwise indicated. 2 The current thesis justifies the use of LĂ©vi-Straussâs RC by highlighting the fertile relationship between sociology and anthropology, especially in regard to the study of food. Anthropologists have had a long interest in food because they recognise its âcentral role in many culturesâ (Counihan & Van Esterik 1997, p.37). The anthropology of food has deep roots, with Edward Burnett Tylor (1878 [1865]) planting the seeds for the subject when he argued the fact, disputed at the time, that cooking qualified as a human universal. Twenty years later John G. Bourke produced the anthropology of foodâs first detailed paper The Urine Dance of the Zuni Indians of New Mexico (1920 [1881]). Since then Anthropologists have demonstrated how food is connected with economy, power, kinship, and human thought, and through their early studies they established a strong tradition (see Counihan & Van Esterik 1997; Douglas 1978 [1975]; Firth 1934; Fortes & Fortes 1936; Richards 1932; Rozin 1999; Sahlins 1972; Weismantel 1988). Sociology is now catching up, and food is recognised and researched by anthropologists and sociologists alike for its numerous meanings and functions including: social, psychological, cultural, economic, religious, artistic, and political (Rozin 1999, p.22). 3 The nature/culture divide was an important binary opposition in LĂ©vi-Straussâs CT and will be discussed in greater detail on p.54. 4 In LĂ©vi-Straussâs Totemism (1969 [1962]) he refers specifically to the choice of animals as totems for their symbolic value rather than their economic value as food products. However in his later works, as this thesis chapter will show, Levi-Straussâs greatly demonstrated that what is good to eat (bonnes Ă manger) is also good to think (bonnes Ă penser) with (1969 [1962]). 5 The influence of Jakobson (1956) and Saussureâs (1974 [1916]) linguistics will be considered in greater detail on p.45. 6 Durkheimâs Elementary Forms of Religious Life (1995 [1912]) has been influential for later generations of sociologists, especially in Jeffrey Alexanderâs strong program of cultural sociology (see Alexander 2003, 2007; Arnason 2010). 7 Langue is âthe individual natural languageâ regarded as a structure or systemâ, while parole is the âindividual speech acts, or acts of language as a processâ (Lechte 2008, p.180). 8 Bob Ashley (et al.) provide a sound explanation of Saussureâs concept. They explain that âthe relationship between the signifier and the signified is an arbitrary one: there is no inherent reason why, for example, the three black marks âp-i-gâ should signify a non-ruminant omnivorous ungulateâŠinstead, Saussure proposes that âp-i-gâ signifies the mental concept âpigâ only by virtue of its difference from other signifiers (Ashley et al. 2004, p.3). In this way âpigâ signifies the âoinking animalâ because it is not âpugâ, âfigâ, âpitâ, or various other signifiers. 9 LĂ©vi-Straussâs The Savage Mind (1966b) is related to his study in RC and CT as in this work he argued against the dominant idea that there is a difference between the âpre-logicalâ mentality of primitive individuals and the âlogicalâ mentality of the modern individual. Leach explains that LĂ©vi-Strauss sought to show that ââprimitiveâ people are no more mystical in their approach to reality than we areâŠlikewise they are able to make sense of the events of daily life by reference to codes composed of things outside themselves â such as the attributes of animal speciesâ (1996
64
[1970], p.101). In essence LĂ©vi-Strauss asserts that primitive people are just as sophisticated as we are, but they simply use a distinct system of notation. 10 Especially with chef Heston Blumenthal developing new cooking techniques daily.
65
CHAPTER 3: The Symbolic Frameworks of Food:
Klaus Eder This chapter will examine Klaus Ederâs classic but neglected work The Social Construction
of Nature (1996 [1988]) (Hereafter referred to as SCN).1 Ederâs text has been selected for
analysis because like LĂ©vi-Straussâs works, SCN is one of the very few texts that explicitly
considers the nature/culture divide with the problematic of âfoodâ as a main category in its
analysis. Furthermore this thesis draws attention to Ederâs social theory of nature and the
environment because of its relevance to current debates in sociology (see Ferguson 2005;
Irwin 2001; Macnaghten & Urry 1998; Sutton 2004). SCN is important because it offers a
reinterpretation of the relationship between nature, culture, and society, and it links cultural
interpretation to the environmental problems of food in modern industrial societies.
The present chapter will hermeneutically reconstruct SCN. From this analysis this study
will critically discuss the insights wrought from the respective analyses of LĂ©vi-Strauss and
Ederâs work in order to begin to configure a theoretical framework that can elaborate an
environmental sociology of food. This chapter will first consider Ederâs intellectual
sources. It will then contextualise SCN within his broader project, and situate it into wider
debates on modernity and critical theory. Ederâs argument will then be critically analysed,
which will lead into the concluding discussion that will consider SCN together with LĂ©vi-
Straussâs RC and CT. Through the analysis of these works together, this study will show
that the cultural meanings of food provide an important, but hitherto marginalised lens,
through which to interpret the nature/culture divide. It will argue that it is important to
investigate the underlying constitutions of meanings that inform our social practices
towards the natural environment at a core level. As a result the concluding discussion will
66
show that this thesis provides a preliminary step towards elaborating a conceptual
framework that is more adequately equipped to investigate an environmental sociology of
food.
Intellectual Sources
Before critically engaging with SCN it is important to consider Ederâs intellectual sources,
and to contextualise his work by understanding how he came to write SCN. Klaus Eder is
professor of sociology at the Institute of Social Sciences, Humboldt University of Berlin.
He was a student of JĂŒrgen Habermas at Frankfurt University, and considered part of the
third generation of critical theory (Anderson 2011; Strydom 1993). One of his first
publications Die Entstehung Staatlich Organisierter Gesellschaften: Ein Beitrag zu einer
Theorie Sozialer Evolution (1976) was a contribution to the theory of social evolution,
which analysed the emergence of state-orientated societies. The work of Habermas and
critical theory more broadly were central intellectual sources for Ederâs intellectual
trajectory, and now require a brief overview to properly contextualise SCN.
Recalling the discussion of critical theory in the methodology section of this thesis, critical
theory in a narrow sense refers to the work of German neo-Marxist academics of the
âFrankfurt Schoolâ who placed an emphasis on critiquing society and culture. JĂŒrgen
Habermas was initially a part of the original Frankfurt Schoolâs inner circle, however he
became unsatisfied with the first generationâs pessimistic conclusions, particularly Adorno
and Horkheimerâs perspective in Dialectic of Enlightenment (2002 [1944]). His objection
emerged from his post-war outlook, as the world, now full of new social and political
possibilities, looked very distinct to the one described by Adorno and Horkheimer
(Anderson 2011; Elliott 2009). Habermas specifically argued that the negative view of the
67
early Frankfurt School was not just a conclusion of a solemn observation of historical
processes, rather it arose from incorrect theoretical assumptions (Whitebook 1979, p.41).
He suggested that if Adorno and Horkheimerâs perspective was correct, if the
Enlightenment, which was meant to cause liberty and plenitude to humans, was from its
formation, also bound to bring imprisonment and suffering, then critical theory is left in a
quandary. Habermasâs theories are an attempt to resolve the problems of the first
generation of critical theory, but he also wished to retain its original perspective and
maintain some elements of its diagnosis of social problems. It is beyond the scope of the
present work to provide a detailed account of Habermasâs theoretical developments, so this
chapter will now focus on his concepts that are relevant to the premise of Ederâs SCN.2
Habermas examined how in modernity the domain of science led to the demise of the
Churchâs sovereignty, and was eventually replaced by the epistemic power of natural
science and reason (Porter 2001). From this understanding he determined that modernity
brings a huge expansion in the amount and quality of specialised knowledge. However at
the same time this knowledge becomes detached from everyday life, to the extent that the
gap between what we know and how we live widens (Habermas 1996 [1981], p.45). From
this understanding Habermas describes modernity as an âunfinished projectâ, in which he
explains that:
The project of modernity as it was formulated by the philosophers of
the Enlightenment in the eighteenth century consist in the relentless
development of the objectivating sciences, of the universalist foundations
of morality and law, and of the autonomous art, all in accord with their
own immanent logic⊠Partisans of the EnlightenmentâŠcould still
entertain the extravagant expectation that the arts and sciences would
not merely promote the control of forces of nature, but also further the
68
understanding of the self and world, the progress of morality, justice in
social institutions, and even human happiness (Habermas 1996 [1981],
p.45).
However Habermas examined twentieth century society and he noted that little of this
optimism remains, and so he asked, âShould we continue to hold fast to the intentions of the
Enlightenment, however fractured they may be, or should we rather relinquish the entire
project of modernity?â (1996 [1981]. p.46). In response he argued that modernity is
âunfinishedâ because it is an ongoing process that should not be reversed, but he also
explains that we should not accept every development it produces. Modernity is a âprojectâ
because Habermas maintains that we must critically measure the cultural, technological,
and economic potential of modern society, and this must be done in light of secular
humanitarian ideals (Finlayson 2005, p.66). Hence Habermas determined that modernity is
an âunfinished projectâ. Elliott explains that Habermas believed in âthe basic assumption of
the Enlightenment â particularly [that] the expansion of the spheres of freedom and
solidarityâ were enough to transform society, and so he adjusted critical theory to consider
language, communication, and rationality as a way to bring about a radical social change
(Elliott 2009, p.158). 3 Habermas drew attention to everyday interaction and
communication between people as a major source of emancipatory impulses (Anderson
2011, p.5).4 He sought to identify the general and universal features of communicative
action, and he aimed to develop a communicative rationality and a progressive learning
process, which he believed could foster autonomy and liberate human interaction from
dominion.
As mentioned earlier Klaus Eder was a student of JĂŒrgen Habermas at Frankfurt University.
As a younger critical theorist and student, Eder worked with Habermas on his theory of
69
sociocultural evolution (Strydom 1993, p.304). However during the late 1970s and early
1980s, Eder began to move away from Habermasâs thought. Ederâs shift is described by
Piet Strydom as a radical change, because within a decade Eder moved from uncritically
accepting Habermasâs âuniversal historical and general societal applicabilityâ of the theory
of social evolution, to becoming one of its sharpest critics (Strydom 1993, p.304-305).
Ederâs connection to Habermasâs theory was split for the first time in his book, Die
Vergesellschaftung der Natur: Studien zur sozialen Evolution der praktischen Vernunft
(1988), which in 1996 was revised, enlarged, and translated into English as The Social
Construction of Nature: A Sociology of Ecological Enlightenment (1996 [1988]).
Ederâs critique and development of Habermasâs theory is evident throughout his
intellectual trajectory. His numerous works develop a macrosociology with an emphasis on
historical and comparative studies, European sociological research, and structural analysis
(see Eder 1993; 2001; 2002). Much of his research is from the field of political sociology,
as he considers democracy, social movements, social structure, and collective action (see
Eder 1991 [1985]; 1993; 1999; 2006). However in the late 1980s his attention to social
movements provoked his interest in the environment, and he became concerned with
modern industrial societyâs âincreasingly violent and destructiveâ relationship to nature (see
Eder 1990a; 1990b; 1995; 1996 [1988]; Eder & Kousis 2001). From this concern he
developed a unique interpretation of nature and what he terms âecological reasonâ that he
posits in SCN.
The Social Construction of Nature
SCN argues that although environmental problems and approaches have been apparent for a
long time, both industrial and developing countriesâ relationships to nature are becoming
70
increasingly harmful. Eder originally published SCN in Germany in 1988, at a time when
new social movements arose and awareness of environmental issues became important
(Anderson 2011; Touraine 1971, 1981).5 Most answers to the current environmental
problem have been offered by economics, technology, and politics, but in SCN Eder argues
for a cultural account. Eder was one of the first sociologists to argue for a cultural
approach to the environment, and in SCN he attempts to formulate a concept of practical
reason through the âreconstruction of the cultural foundations of manâs relationship to
natureâ (p.x). It is with this cultural underpinning that Ederâs intentions in SCN are two-
fold. Firstly, he provides the foundations of a social critique of ecological reason through a
comparative analysis of the relationship to nature in various societies, and secondly, he
determines the conditions that have so far hindered environmental learning processes
(p.vii). Eder pursues his argument by organising his text into three sections. In part one,
Eder builds the foundations of cultural theory to critique ecological reason.6 In part two, he
questions the logic of cultural practices of the appropriation of nature through a
comparative analysis of food taboos. However in part three, Eder shifts his methodological
perspective to consider the consequences of the spirit of environmentalism on politics in
modern society. This empirical perspective moves beyond the scope of this thesis, and so
this chapter will only briefly consider this third part to segue into the concluding
discussion.
Reason is a central idea in SCN and at this point requires further elaboration. In classical
philosophical terms, reason is distinguished into three domains of human activity;
theoretical reason, practical reason, and technical reason (Millgram 2001; Taylor 1995).
Theoretical reason concerns the use of reason to investigate and hypothesise truth and what
to believe. Practical reason is the use of reason to determine how to act and to decide
71
whether a course of action is worth implementing. Technical reason simply attempts to
find the best means for a given end. Eder, in a similar manner to Horkheimer, Adorno, and
Habermas before him, were all interested in practical reason, and sought to uncover the
pathologies of society that are based in the fragmentation and fragility of reason. As
mentioned previously, Adorno and Horkheimer had a pessimistic view of society, and from
this outlook they argued that technical reason, and the fetters of capitalism and technocratic
bureaucracy dominate modern society and nature. In contrast to Adorno and Horkheimerâs
approach, Habermas believed that the way to emancipate society from domination was
through practical reason. Habermas linked the disrupted interplay of reason and
irrationality to the fundamental forces of communication and language, and he aimed to
rescue communicative rationality through his unfinished project of modernity (Elliott 2009,
p.178). However in Habermasâs approach there is no place for the environment, because he
views, along with many critical theorists, that the inclusion of nature is the negation of
reason (see Whitebook 1979). In this regard Eder departs from Habermas and places the
social relation to nature at the centre of contemporary society. He considers that the
changes in societyâs relationship to nature could give rise to new forms of modernisation
and politics. From this understanding he critiques Habermasâs notion of communicative
reason, because âdespite all [the] communication on ecological matters, we have remained
culturally naĂŻve âPhilistinesâ in our interaction with natureâ (p.viii). Eder argues that
society is symbolically organised, and he contends that cultural meanings may be a way to
reconstruct practical reason. It is from this insight that Eder begins his critique of
ecological reason and argues that it needs to be radicalised by cultural theory.
In SCN, Eder develops his argument through a strong critique of ecological reason. Eder
explains that ecological reason has developed as a response to the ecological crisis, and its
72
general idea is that the pollution of nature needs to be limited in order to sustain the planet
for future generations (p.vii). However Eder is concerned that ecological reason is merely
a euphemism of utilitarian rationality (p.57). In this way he explains:
The issue is whether this ecological reason will become part of a form of
practical reason that can avoid the pitfalls of utilitarian rationality. What is
at stake it whether ecological reason can be connected with an appropriate
âecologicalâ ethics. If this were to succeed, then an ecological ethics could
no longer be reduced to a utilitarian ethics. Then the seducibility of morality
by knowledge, that characteristic of modern utilitarian reason, could no
longer continue to be the characteristic of the social evolution of practical
reason in modernity. The question of whether, despite all the knowledge
now available to us, we are producing an ecological reason today from
which an ecological morality is absent therefore compels a renewed
critique of ideology: a critique of ecological reason (p.57).
Eder question ecological reason when he considers that the âexploitation discourse of
industrialismâ and âthe pollution discourse of environmentalismâ have stemmed from the
same utilitarian perspective of nature (p.vii). According to Eder both perspectives and
interactions with nature are exploitive. This argument echoes that of Max Weber (see
Weber 1985 [1930]), and more recently in the work of Ulrich Beck (see Beck 1991; 1992;
1995; 1996). Eder contends that the modern culture of nature is controlled by technical
reason and an instrumental rationality, which is so deeply embedded that it has even filtered
into the environmental movement. Eder explains that although ecological reason advocates
a more ârationalâ engagement with nature, it still judges nature based on what it can endure,
and so modernity is unable to consider ânatureâ as anything more that an âobjectâ of human
needs (p.vii). Noel Castree indicates that this is a common concern of radical
environmentalists, including deep ecologists or eco-Marxists, who âgenerally point to the
73
failure of technocratic environmentalism to get to grips with the mass industrialism, mass
consumption, and capitalist production logic fundamentally causing environmental
degradationâ (1997, p.268). Eder agrees, but what makes his analysis innovative is his
resolve that the environmental problems of modern industrialism must be situated in their
cultural context in order to be understood accurately. At the time of SCNâs publication (i.e.
1988) this brought new insights to bear on sociological analyses of the environment, and in
this way it is a pioneering argument.
Eder argues that, âModernityâs characteristic pride in dominating nature has caused us to
forget that we are living in a culture that more or less unconsciously âforcesâ us into a self-
destructive relationship with natureâ (p.vii-viii). The central idea here is âunconsciouslyâ,
because for Eder, ecological reason does not lead to an alternative approach to nature,
rather it reproduces the âlong-standing and culturally deep-rooted attitudes and modes of
actionâ that further societyâs âself-destructive relationship with natureâ (p.vii). Eder
surmises that ecological reason cannot solve this destructive course, as it is simply the
newest form of practical (technocratic) reason. Following Weber (1985 [1930]), Eder
connects ecological reason to the Protestant spirit, as he considers that it emerged from the
same utilitarian perspective of nature. Although as Bronislaw Szerszynski explains, it has
now been enlightened âby ecological awareness of the prudential reasons to protect nature
for human benefitâ, which Eder views is a âfurther rationalization of the instrumental
relation to nature promoted by Protestantismâ (Szerszynski 2005, p. 153). Eder argues
against this Protestant spirit of ecological reason. He proposes that we need to search deep
underneath the surface of our practical engagement with nature to rediscover the underlying
symbolic dimensions and cultural codes that shape our practical interaction with nature. In
this way SCN questions âthe naturalistic analysis of the relationship between nature and
74
society [and opposes it with] a culturalist interpretation of this relationship [that views]
nature as something that is constituted symbolically rather than objectively givenâ (p.9). It
is from this perspective that Eder seeks to produce a communicative type of rationality that
moves beyond the nature and society relationship of domination, and shifts towards a new
âenvironmentally friendlyâ cultural order (p.10).
Eder elaborated his cultural approach to nature in the late 1980s. Since that time several
theorists have adopted a cultural perspective (see Bird 1987; Castree & Braun 2001; Ross
1978) towards nature, which resonates with the general âcultural turnâ over the last decade
in the human sciences. In various ways these other studies have âunearthedâ sites in which
nature is materially and discursively constructed in modern society. Ederâs social
construction of nature remains an important contribution to the cultural interpretation of
nature, but as stated in the literature review, social constructionism is âthe bread and butter
of sociologyâ. Therefore it is necessary to examine how Ederâs use of social
constructionism differs to others. Recalling the discussion of social constructionism vs.
critical realism in chapter one, the common idea of social constructionism is that our
interaction and understanding of nature are, to a great extent, socially produced (see
Everdeen 1992; Hannigan 2006; Irwin 2001; Macnaghten & Urry 1998; Smith 1997; Tester
1991). Mick Smith argues that it is unmistakably clear that our experiences and
interpretations of nature are socially produced, when he explains that:
Either ânatureâ denotes âthe entire system of thingsâ in which case everything we do
is natural (including one must presume, nuclear testing, pesticide spraying, and so
on) or, people arbitrarily select from and read into nature what they will, ignoring
countervailing examplesâŠ[and] they operate with a particular and partial reading
of nature without recognising that this conception is, in part at least, a social
construction which mirrors their own predilections (Smith 1997, p.164).
75
This is a common critique of environmentalism as once nature is considered a social
construct, any discussion about the âintrinsic valueâ or the ânatural limitâ of nature can be
regarded as an ideologically questionable effort to limit human freedom, which causes an
uncertain terrain for political agenda (Castree 1997; Smith 1997). From this critique, Smith
emphasises that an important start for environmental politics is to consider how nature has
been constructed throughout history and in various cultures (Sessions 1995; Smith 1997).
Eder takes a similar approach in his comparative analysis of food taboos and customs in
different societies and eras, because he emphasises the cultural/symbolic meanings of
nature and food as they appear within human societies.
Ederâs social construction of nature breaks new ground through his detailed historical
analysis of culture. It also differs to other social constructionist approaches to nature,
because of his emphasis on food and âconsumptionâ. He argues that our consumptive
habits and preferences are not predetermined by human needs, rather they are culturally
constructed and symbolically mediated (Castree 1997; Smith 1997). Eder builds a
thorough framework in which nature is socially constructed, but his form of social
constructionism is self-reflexive, because he believes âcritical theoretical reason must
always make sure of [its] social function, and that means it must infuse theoretical reason
with sociologically enlightened reflexivityâ (p.50). This approach allows him to defend
environmentalismâs moral and political particularity, and it also permits him to still provide
a realistic account about the rationality of environmental practice (Ney 1998; Smith 1997).
In Ederâs social construction of nature he recognises that society has an âunthematisableâ
symbolic foundation, and according to Szerszynskiâs interpretation of Ederâs text, âwe
operate [in practice] in accordance not with an abstract ecological rationality but with a
concrete ecological morality informed by unexamined symbols and metaphorsâ
76
(Szerszynski 2005, pp.153-154). Yet Eder explains that despite all the knowledge modern
society has gained, it is still producing an ecological reason that lacks ecological morality
(p.57). Eder explains that it is tempting to restore the Protestant spirit of nature with a
âCatholic spiritâ, or a traditional, or âRomanticâ interaction with nature, but Eder indicates
that âsuch an escapeâ will be avoided in his text (p.x). He explains his reason for avoiding
this ârestorationalâ approach with reference to the theoretical purpose of SCN, which is:
To sketch out the foundations of a social critique of ecological reason by
starting from a comparative analysis of the relationship to nature in
different societies. Such a critique is the opposite of restoration. It may
use elements of tradition, but it does not remain bound to them. This
prevents any restorational intent (p.x).
Ederâs simultaneous use of practical (non-technocratic) reason together with cultural values
are central to the problematic of modernity. Ederâs text engages in questions surrounding
modernity, including questions of the Enlightenment, reason and rationality, and the
Romantic emphasis on meaning, which at this point requires discussion.7
The world was once viewed as a given or a âtaken for granted horizonâ, but through the
Enlightenment, modernity becomes âinherently problematic and problematizableâ (Adams
2011, p.8).8 Before the Enlightenment, Western civilization was based on faith in God,
tradition, and authority, but with the Enlightenment, these deep-rooted values and beliefs
were questioned, and in many cases, superseded by new concepts from philosophical
reason. 9 Johnathon Israel explains that in the Enlightenment a âgeneral process of
rationalization and secularization set in which rapidly overthrew theologyâs age-old
hegemony in the world of studyâ (2001, p.4).10 This period, and the notions of âprogressâ
and the âimprovement of societyâ that came with it, resulted in two distinct lines of
enlightenment thought (Arnason 1991 [1984]; Porter 2001). The first saw the benefits of
77
progressing towards a rational society with autonomy, conscience, individuality,
democracy, and the removal of religious authority from the state (Israel 2001; Whitebook
1979). In contrast the second argued for a âCounter-Enlightenmentâ that would critically
review and support the old models of thought and systems of values (Israel 2010, p.15).
A major aspect of the Enlightenment involved a âdisembedding from natureâ, and the
conquest of the environment in which the âvisions of natureâ are cleared of meaning and
viewed as surplus, or as an âOtherâ, to an excessively rationalised world (Adams 2011, p.8).
This second line of thought resonated with the artistic and intellectual movement of
Romanticism. Johann P. Arnason explains that:
Romanticism in the widest sense of the term⊠is the defence of
meaningfulness against subsumption under the meaning-destroying
mechanisms of an Enlightenment geared towards the expansion and
rationalization of power and embodied in the reified economic and
political structures of the modern world (Arnason 1991 [1984], p.210).
These two lines of thought are central to the problematic of modernity, because instead of
reducing âmodernityâ to âthe Enlightenmentâ, as other theorist have done (see Adorno and
Horkheimer 2002 [1944]; Bauman 1989, 2000; Habermas 1996 [1981]), Arnason argues
that an image of modernity needs to encompass both Romanticism and the Enlightenment
(Arnason 1991 [1984]). The Enlightenment and Romanticism should not to be considered
as mere historical epochs, but as cultural currents than can be characterised by an emphasis
on reason and rationality (Enlightenment) and meaning and the imagination (Romanticism)
(Arnason 1991 [1984]). At this point, considering Arnasonâs innovative thoughts on âthe
cultural horizons of modernityâ may help to reconfigure Ederâs perspective (Adams 2011,
p.138).
78
Like Eder, Arnason was also a student of Habermas, and his cultural hermeneutics was a
direct response to Habermasâs theory of communicative action and his notion of modernity
as the âunfinished project of the Enlightenmentâ (Adams, Smith, & Vlahov 2011, p.5).
Arnason understood modernity as a âfield of tensionsâ, in which Romanticism is not in
opposition to the Enlightenment, rather Arnason argues that Romanticism and the
Enlightenment are to be understood as cultural currents constitutive of modernity itself.
They exist as an underlying âconstitutive polarity of modern structures of consciousness
that can express itself in highly different constellationsâ (Arnason 1991 [1984], p.210). As
Suzi Adams interprets from Arnasonâs thought, the Enlightenment and Romanticism are
not reduced to historical or intellectual movements, rather they are âelaborated more
broadly as cultural currentsâ, which are essential elements of modernityâs field of tensions
(2011, p.138). Arnason explains that by understanding that modernity is organised around
the âradical conflict of interpretationsâ, it justifies a radically decentred perspective of the
world, and it also offers a new direction for the comparison with other traditions and
worldviews (1991 [1984], p.211).
Although Eder may disagree with Arnasonâs understanding of modernity, the present thesis
proposes that Arnasonâs thought is pertinent to Ederâs SCN because in his comparative
analysis of food taboos and customs he establishes two fundamental and conflicting
culinary cultures that coexist in modern society. The first is the âcarnivorous cultureâ,
which communicates a utilitarian and dominant treatment of nature (the Enlightenment),
while the âvegetarian cultureâ prescribes a harmonious relationship with nature
(Romanticism) (p.132). Eder explains that the carnivorous culture is dominant, but he
argues that in modern society, the symbolic effectiveness and power is determined by the
interplay and conflict of these cultures (p.138). Although Eder does not refer to Arnasonâs
79
thought in SCN, this thesis argues that these conflicting culinary cultures are constructions
of the world through cultural meanings (1991 [1984]). Jeffery C. Alexander and Piotr
Sztompka, for example, recognise that Eder draws from both the Enlightenment and
Romantic strain, when he identifies âa cultural conflict between the theoretical antinomies
of rationality and romanticism, evolution and equilibriumâŠand utilitarian reason versus
communicative reasonâ (Alexander & Sztompka 1990, p.6).
Eder argues that rather than depending on practical (non-technocratic) reason, sociology
needs to consider the social âlocusâ of environmental âirrationalityâ in the modern cultural
constructions of nature (Ney 1998, p.1072). However, he questions âwhere do we start?â as
he believes theoretical reason can only provide âenlightenment on the illusion tied to
[practical reason]â (p.1). With this in mind Eder proposes that: Sociological analysis, which treats the societal relationship to nature as a
problem of practical reason, first requires a radicalization of the sociological
perspective in terms of cultural theory. The point is to reconstruct the symbolic
forms in which nature is represented, beyond the utilitarian relationship to
nature which has become the cultural norm (p.2).
This reconceptualisation overcomes two obstacles in the nature/culture divide, firstly it
moves past sociologyâs naturalistic tendency to view nature as the âotherâ to society, and
secondly it concentrates on the way societies symbolically structure their encounter with
nature. Steven Ney argues from his interpretation of SCN, that Eder wants to recover a
philosophical notion of practical reason in sociological analysis that provides
comprehensive sociocultural constructions of nature (1998, p.1072). Eder achieves this by
locating rational learning processes, however he does not find these in âthe evolution of
rational ideas about natureâ, but in âthe evolution of cultural constructions of natureâ (Ney
1998, p.1072). Eder determines that the cultural significance of the Protestant spirit for the
80
modern relationship to nature becomes very evident when the symbolic significance of
nature is explored in different eras and cultures (p.viii). This research indicates that the
modern relationship to nature has decreased, to such an extent, that nature, as a symbolic
form, has no significance of its own. Eder is concerned that this utilitarian culture now
endeavours to control the âmost elementaryâ and at the same time the âmost socialâ aspect
of our interaction with nature, that is, the culture of food (p.viii).
Culinary Morality
From the discussion of Ederâs work thus far it is clear that a major premise of SCN is that
we must become conscious of the symbolic foundations of our relationship to nature if we
want to discover the learning processes that can change our destructive relationship to
nature (p.viii). This led Eder to present a compelling case that food is eminently cultural
and a valuable way to examine modern societyâs relationship to nature. He shows that
nature and societyâs self-destructive relations are reflected in our eating practices, as âeating
is not only material, but a symbolic appropriation of natureâŠ[and] an elementary form of
the transition from nature to cultureâ (p.ix). Eder explains that our daily cultural practices
are central to a critique of ecological rationality, and so in part two of SCN he provides an
extensive anthropological analysis of culinary morality that draws on work from Mary
Douglas, Marvin Harris, and Marshall Sahlins (see Douglas 2002 [1966]; Harris & Ross
1987; Sahlins 1976).
Eder believes that eating is essential to the âcivilizational processâ of humanity (see Elias
1978; Mennell 1996 [1985]). He considers that food taboos are âculturally deep-seatedâ,
and they communicate âa collective moral sentimentâ that exists before any âmoral
consciousnessâ in a society can be formed (pp.58-59). Eder argues that food taboos are
81
norms at the âinterface between nature and cultureâ (p.59). He questions the significance
and function of food taboos, and he approaches his investigation in three steps. Firstly he
reflects on several other explanations of these food taboos, which include, rationalistic,
functionalistic, and structuralist interpretations. Eder explains that the purpose of this
consideration is to assess why food taboos exist in the first place (p.59). His second step is
a comparative analysis of the food taboos from the Jivaro Indians in Brazil, the food taboos
in classical Judaism, and the food taboos in modern Western European culture.
From this analysis Ederâs third step is to investigate the âmorality implicitâ in these taboo
systems. He discovers that the significance between what is edible or inedible portrays a
âsymbolic border between society and non-societyâ, and âbetween symbolic order and
symbolic disorderâ (p.73). Eder perceives that the standard that distinguishes the human
world from nature is âreasonabilityâ, and that âreason is part of society. Unreason belongs
to nature [and] those who do not fit into the social order are considered unreasonableâ
(p.105). However Eder explains that this distinction between reason and unreason âmakes
it possible to make the unreasonable the objects of the reasonableâ, and so Eder questions
the rationality of food taboos (p.105). He specifically asks: âAre the food taboos rational in
view of the natural environment of a society?â, âWhat are the consequences of food taboos
for the reproduction of society in nature?â, and âDo food taboos destroy this natural
environment or do they contribute to its reproduction?â (p.105). Eder contends that the
attempt to determine the rationality of food taboos risks leading to unrestrained relativism,
and so he conceives ecological rationality more narrowly. In this manner he considers that
food taboos are rational if they:
Enable and protect communication under the conditions of differentiation of
society away from nature. Successful communication produces social
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relationships without conflict and solves disputes without force and repression.
In simple, as well as in traditional and modern societies we find rationality
and irrationality in the sense of successful or failing communications (p.106).
From this understanding Eder returns to his analysis of food taboos and he interprets that
both the Jivaro tribe and ancient Hebrews were able to establish successful communication.
However in modern society our food taboos are based on premises that impede this
rationality, because we âcontinue to act as if what we eat [has] no communicative
significanceâ (p.106). Despite these negative findings Eder observes the way modern
environmental movements argue against the exploitation of nature, and so he determines
that âthe rationality issue is still undecidedâ (p.106).
It is evident from Ederâs comparative analysis that he considers food taboos to be a means
of communicating social order. Ederâs excursus also shows that in modern society there
are two coexisting culinary cultures. One that communicates a utilitarian treatment of
nature, and the other prescribes a harmonious relationship with nature (p.132). He terms
the former âthe carnivorous cultureâ, and the latter âthe vegetarian cultureâ. Eder identifies
that the carnivorous culture developed from the ancient Greek tradition with its emphasis
on blood rites, while the vegetarian culture stemmed from the Jewish tradition and its
restrictive use of bloody rituals and strict rules of purity. He explains that these two
cultures are the foundation of the environmental debates in the public sphere. The first
tradition has become dominant in modern society, and in this way nature is purely viewed
as a material object to be moulded and conquered. The second tradition has remained at the
level of collective consciousness, but was activated through the recent ecological crisis,
which brought the realisation that nature can no longer be taken for granted (p.132).
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Eder shows that in modern society power is established through the âinterplay of
carnivorous and vegetarian cultureâ, and we reproduce this âmodern social contractâ in our
everyday culinary actions (p.138). He argues that instead of finding the culture of
modernity in intellectual rationalisations and self-description, we can understand culture in
its daily function. In this way Eder determines that when food is the object of symbolic
conflicts âthe implicit meaning becomes explicitâ (p.139). Therefore by drawing attention
to the âgenerally unconscious cultural presuppositions of these conflictsâ, Eder argues that
we may be able to shift the dominating symbolic power of the carnivorous culture to the
alternative vegetarian culture (p.132). Ederâs explanation of modern societyâs potential to
move towards this alternative culture leads into the third part of SCN, which will now be
briefly considered.
In part three of SCN Ederâs discussion shifts to consider political aspects, asking whether
environmentalism is changing modern culture. Eder considers the way nature has been
framed and communicated in modern society, and he argues that these frames of reference
have been institutionalised to the extent that they have become ecological ideology (p.6).
This shift has brought the carnivorous and vegetarian cultures of modernity into conflict,
and so they must now find a new way to coexist. With this in mind Eder examines the
environmental movement in contemporary Western society, and he considers practical
politics and the possibilities for a non-utilitarian culture of nature (p.163). Eder then
investigates the consequences of the spirit of environmentalism on politics in modern
society, and he argues that it may have the potential to develop a new ecological
masterframe. This third part of SCN requires a far more detailed analysis than this chapter
has presented due to the scope of this thesis. Nevertheless, what this brief discussion has
shown is how Eder links and situates his more theoretical discussion into the practical
84
realm of political and social change, which matches the overarching aim of the present
authorâs research programme.
SCN is a rich text that contains extensive insights for those from various disciplines that are
concerned with the environmental problems that contemporary society faces. However the
insights that Eder presents are not sufficient in and of themselves for an adequate
theoretical framework for an environmental sociology of food. For this reason the
concluding chapter âThe Elementary Forms of Food: Conclusions and Future Directionsâ
will critically analyse Ederâs SCN together with LĂ©vi-Straussâs The Raw and the Cooked
(1970 [1964] and âThe culinary triangleâ (1966) to consider how the cultural meanings of
food can be used to investigate societyâs relationship to nature, which will provide a
preliminary step towards elaborating a theoretical framework for an environmental
sociology of food.
1 All page numbers henceforth refer to this text, except where otherwise indicated. 2 For a detailed analysis of Habermasâs theory (see McCarthy 1978; Nordquist 1986; Outhwaite 1994; Pussey 1987; White 1995) 3 Habermasâs argument that language, communication, and rationality need to be included in critical theory is evident in The Structural Transformation of the Public Sphere (1989) and in The Theory of Communicative Action (vol.1, 1984 [1981]; vol. 2, 1987 [1981]). 4 Emancipatory impulses refer to conditions that may bring about the creation of genuine democratic institutions and could endure the destructive effects of capitalism and state administration (Anderson 2011; Finlayson 2005). 5 Alain Touraine has had a long-standing interest in social movements, and through his research on South American and Polish social movements he argued that society shapes its future through its social struggles (see Touraine 1977; 1981). 6 Ederâs use of the term âecological reasonâ will be explained on p.72. 7 âModernityâ is a contested term that often refers to the social conditions, processes, and discourses consequent to the Age of Enlightenment. To some degree, modernity describes an era (or a set of ideas related to an era). Modernity was a topic of great debate in the 1980s, in which theorists argued whether the era of modernity had past, whether it was still occurring, and, if the era of modernity had ended, it questioned whether this shift was beneficial. There has also been continuous debate on modernity and multiple modernities (see, for example, Arnason 1991 [1984]; Eisenstadt 2002; Wagner 1999). However modernity is more than an era, it âdesignates the social, political, cultural, institutional, and psychological conditions that arise from certain historical processesâ (Finlayson 2005, p.63). Sociology as a discipline arose in direct response to the social problems of modernity (Harriss 2000, p.325). Although modernity is discussed as a âtheoryâ, it is not an isolated thought, but an accumulation of ideas and notions that are âwoven into all the
85
various programmesâ (Finlayson 2005, p.63). For this reason the debates surrounding modernity are important to this discussion of Ederâs work as they were occurring at the time he published SCN. 8 The specific era of the Enlightenment has been contested, but it is generally thought to have occurred during the 17th and 18th centuries (Israel 2001; Porter 2001). 9 âReasonâ is a contested term, which is often conflated with ârationalityâ. For the purposes of the current discussion this thesis will view âreasonâ as the capacity that human beings have to make sense of things, to determine and verify facts, and to shift or justify practices, institutions, and beliefs (Kompridis 2000, p.271). 10 Rationalisation is a process in which social actions become progressively more based on factors of efficiency and calculation rather than inspired from morals, emotions, customs, or tradition. In Weberâs The Protestant Ethic and the Spirit of Capitalism (1985 [1930]) he established that rationalisation was the result of aims from Protestant denominations (in particular Calvinism) that focused on the rational means of economic profit as a way to cope with their âsalvation anxietyâ (1985 [1930], p.136). Rationalisation is viewed as an ambivalent characteristic of modernity, which is largely seen in Western civilisationâs capitalist market, in the rational administration of the state and bureaucracy, and in the rapid growth of modern science and technology (Harriss 2000). In Weberâs Economy and Society (1978) he described that the ultimate impact of increased rationalisation was a society in which individuals were trapped in an âiron cageâ of rational control. In this way rationalisation does not generally denote what is actually ârationalâ or âlogicalâ, but a persistent quest for progress and goals, which in turn may disadvantage society (Ritzer 2004).
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CONCLUSIONS AND FUTURE DIRECTIONS: The Elementary Forms of Food
This thesis asked âHow can the social category of âfoodâ help to problematise the meanings
of the nature/culture divide in modern society?â. For this reason the project began by
contextualising the research question in the relevant literature from the sociology of nature,
environmental sociology, and the sociology of food. The first chapter specifically revealed
that the sociology of nature was developed as a response to the nature/culture divide in
sociology, but it has neglected to examine food as a significant part of this divide. From
this analysis the present thesis argued that the nature/culture divide needs to be
problematised with the social category and cultural meanings of food. In this way the
nature/culture dualism becomes less of a dichotomy and more of an interplay that can
engage in both social constructionist and critical realist perspectives. The literature review
also inspected environmental sociology and its approaches to food. It recognised that
although food is budding as an important aspect of environmental concerns, food is
commonly viewed as an aspect of larger environmental issues, instead of a central category
that fundamentally shapes approaches to the nature, culture, and the environment in modern
society.
The focus of the literature review then turned to examine the sociology of food and it
demonstrated that the growing sociological interest in the importance of food has meant
that food as a social category is increasingly problematised. A central question in the
sociology of food is whether it should be researched as an âobjectâ or a âsubjectâ, and
whether food is a ânaturalâ or a âsocialâ construct (Ferguson 2005, p.680). Although the
diverse works in the sociology of food share an emphasis on the cultural and social
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significance of food, the literature review indicated that food is never âjustâ food, and so it
is not clear that texts in this field are discussing the same thing in a useful way. From this
analysis it was argued that the sociology of food requires a theoretical approach to give the
diversity of views a common framework. As a result this chapter determined that both
environmental sociology and the sociology of food have made significant contributions to
the sociological study of food, however neither subject has closely examined the concrete
social practices and cultural meanings of food as an environmental issue.
The present thesis thus proposed that a new social theory is needed to address the
deficiencies of the sociology of nature, environmental sociology, and the sociology of food.
It suggested moving towards an environmental sociology of food, which could examine the
cultural meanings and social practices of food, and also consider food as a serious
environmental issue that intersects both the broader industrial sphere and our everyday
lives. From this understanding the thesis argued that the first step towards developing a
new theoretical framework was to return to the nature/culture divide, and to reproblematise
and rethink it with the social category and cultural meanings of food as a central lens. It
specifically questioned: âHow can the social category of âfoodâ help to problematise the
meanings of the nature/culture divide in modern society?â It was decided that the most
appropriate method to approach this question, in the first instance, was to critically engage
with two âcase studiesâ in social theory that explicitly considered the nature/culture divide
and recognised âfoodâ as a major category in their respective analyses.
The texts selected for evaluation were Claude LĂ©vi-Straussâs The Raw and the Cooked
(1970 [1964]) and âThe culinary triangleâ (1966a), together with Klaus Ederâs The Social
Construction of Nature (1996 [1988]). In chapters two and three these texts were
88
hermeneutically reconstructed to examine the ways in which LĂ©vi-Strauss and Eder have
investigated the nature/culture divide with food as a social category. It is clear that both
theorists provide diverse interpretations of the social categories of food and the
nature/culture divide. For this reason the concluding discussion will now critically analyse
these texts together in order to extract valuable insights to consider the implications their
respective works might have towards an environmental sociology of food.
LĂ©vi-Strauss
LĂ©vi-Straussâs theoretical connection between the techniques of cooking and his distinction
between nature and culture provides a vital contribution to the sociology of food because
his structuralist approach changed the study of food from merely observing its function in
society to exploring the underlying âmeaningsâ of food. This final chapter will now
reconstruct and rethink LĂ©vi-Straussâs insight from RC and CT, specifically, that cooking is
a medium which reveals the binary opposition of nature and culture as a universal structure
of the human mind. The purpose of this reconstruction is to consider how LĂ©vi-Straussâs
concepts contribute to reproblematising the meanings of the nature/culture divide in
modern society.
LĂ©vi-Strauss produced his culinary triangle to demonstrate how cooking can be used to
conceptualise the distinction between nature and culture, and he argued that through the act
of cooking, people communicate that they are cultured and human, rather than âsavageâ and
animal, or in his words âcookedâ instead of ârawâ (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1970 [1964], p.164). Leach
explains that from this distinction LĂ©vi-Strauss was questioning âHow is it and why is it
that [human beings] who are a part of Nature, manage to see themselves as other than
Nature even though, in order to subsist, they must constantly maintain relations with
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Nature?â (Leach 1996 [1970], p.109). LĂ©vi-Strauss noted that âanimalsâ just eat food,
which for them is any available substance that their instincts categorise as âedibleâ. In
contrast human beings do not have such instincts, as once they are weaned from their
motherâs milk they require the mores of society to determine what is food and what is not,
and what foods should be eaten on various occasions (Leach 1996 [1970], p.42). This
notion that humanity is distinct from animality does not readily convert into âprimitiveâ
languages, but in LĂ©vi-Straussâs study of myths and culinary practices he examined the
fundamental questions of âwhat is a human being?â and âwhere does culture divide off from
nature?â (Leach 1996 [1970], p.42). LĂ©vi-Strauss observed that for centuries humans have
utilised fire in order to transform their food from a raw to a cooked state, but he recognised
that they do not need to cook their food. As a result he interpreted cooking as a way for
humans to symbolically demonstrate that they are human and not animal, civilised and not
uncivilised. He argued that fire and cooking are basic symbols that distinguish nature from
culture, such that the this binary opposition is always latent in humanityâs customs,
attitudes, and behaviours, even if they are not explicit.
However recalling the limitations of LĂ©vi-Straussâs approach, this thesis argued that LĂ©vi-
Straussâs distinction between nature and culture was in itself âcookedâ, and this point
requires further discussion. LĂ©vi-Strauss believed that underlying the cooking practices of
all human societies was the binary opposition of nature and culture. However his
distinction between nature and culture is historically constructed. LĂ©vi-Straussâs
understanding of âthe cookedâ is cultural, and he considered it to be progressive and
civilised, while he perceived that âthe rawâ is natural, and therefore it is regressive and
uncivilised (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1970 [1964], p.164). This thesis argues that underlying LĂ©vi-
Straussâs approach are notions of civilised and uncivilised. LĂ©vi-Straussâs understanding of
90
the transition from the raw to the cooked was a common idea in traditional societies, and
very distinct from those we have in contemporary society. Claude Fischler explains that
traditionally âraw foodstuffs had to be civilized or, so to say, tamed through culinary
processing in order to be fit for consumptionâ (1980, p.946). In traditional societies the
natural environment was considered to be wild, uncivilised, and cruel, and thus it needed to
be conquered and tamed for humanity to progress (Cudworth 2003; Franklin 2002;
Macnaghten & Urry 1998; Sutton 2004).
However modern societyâs culinary processes have increasingly shifted from the kitchen to
the factory. If one were to examine modern societyâs cooking techniques, or rather its
industrialised and commercialised food system through LĂ©vi-Straussâs lens, our culinary
practices would be situated at the furthermost point of âthe cookedâ (cultural side) of the
culinary triangle. Modern society would perhaps therefore be classified as âovercookedâ or
very cultured, but this cultural category has far more negative implications than LĂ©vi-
Straussâs idea of culture. Anne Murcott considers this negative implication of culture when
she remarks:
What is happening is that contemporary industrial society is being seen as over-
culturalised and its members [and the natural environment are] suffering theâŠ
consequences of too much modernity in all aspects of lifestyle including their
diet. In line with this âdiagnosisâ, âhealthâ foods, more ânaturalâ foods are
presented as the appropriate antidote (Murcott 1982, p.205).
The modern concept of culture signifies a ânightmareâ of the dirty, tasteless, and
industrialised, while nature signifies the âpastoral dreamâ of pure, fresh, and natural
(Everdeen 1992; Williams 1972). This understanding of the modern nature/culture divide
can be summarised in the dominant idea that âculture perverts natureâ (Fischler 1980,
p.942), which is markedly different to LĂ©vi-Straussâs trans-historical notion that ânature
91
progresses to cultureâ (LĂ©vi-Strauss 1966a, p.587). LĂ©vi-Straussâs approach cannot
adequately categorise modern societyâs concept of nature and culture, because the
nature/culture divide is no longer a sharp or clear distinction (Merleau-Ponty 1960, p.123).
The problem with LĂ©vi-Straussâs interpretation of the nature/culture divide is that he
considers it to be an unconscious binary opposition in all human thought. He does not
recognise that we ascribe meaning to nature, and so these meanings change and are
historically constructed on a symbolic level rather than on a literal level (Murcott 1982,
p.205). Fischler explains that humans feed ânot only on proteins, fats, carbohydrates, but
also on symbols, myths and fantasies. The selection of [food] is made not only according
to physiological requirements, but also on the basis of cultural and social representationsâ
(1980, p.937). In this way society experiences, and furthermore consumes nature, but it
does so through our understandings that are mediated by our values, languages, social
imaginaries, and technologies (Hogan et al. 2010, p.337). Hence any approach to food as
an environmental issue must take into account the underlying constitutions of meanings
concerning food that inform our changing social practices at a core level. Eder emphasises
the significance of the cultural and symbolic meanings of food, and so this chapter will now
turn to consider his perspective.
Klaus Eder
In sharp contrast to LĂ©vi-Straussâs trans-historical understanding of the human condition,
Eder presents a historical trajectory by investigating the environmental crisis as a Western
historical phenomenon. Eder argues for a cultural interpretation of nature and society that
views ânature as something that is constituted symbolically rather than objectively givenâ
(1996 [1988], p.9). Although LĂ©vi-Strauss considered modern societyâs relationship to
nature to be âover-culturalisedâ, Eder argues that humans have remained âculturally naĂŻve
92
âPhilistinesââ in their interaction with nature (Eder 1996 [1988], p.viii). LĂ©vi-Strauss and
Eder interpret and utilise the categories of nature, culture, and âfoodâ in very different ways.
Nevertheless according to Eder modern societyâs relationship to nature is far from being
âover-culturalisedâ in the LĂ©vi-Straussian sense, rather it is dominated by a utilitarian
perspective, such that modernity is unable to consider ânatureâ as anything more than an
âobjectâ of human needs (Eder 1996 [1988], p.vii). This thesis concurs with this notion,
and like Eder, is particularly concerned that, following Max Weber (1985 [1930]), the
increasing rationalisation and rationalising currents of modernity are flattening out contexts
of meaning, in general, and the symbolic significance, which is reproduced in our everyday
culinary actions (Eder 1996 [1988], p.viii). This has major consequences for the
environment, because our social categories and underlying cultural meanings of food
inform our social practices at a fundamental level. Although Ederâs analysis focused on the
environmental crisis from a Western historical perspective, it is now clear that
environmental problems are global issues that affect all societies beyond the West (see
Friedman 1993; Mintz 2002; Ritzer 2004; Wilk 2006).
Ederâs reinterpretation of the relationship between nature, culture, and society together with
an emphasis on the cultural and social significance of food is an important contribution to
the development of a new theoretical framework more suitable to the task of elaborating an
environmental sociology of food. The central tenets of this thesis are similar to Ederâs, as it
recognises food as a powerful cultural form, and this project developed from the belief that
we need to search beneath the surface of our practical engagement with nature to rediscover
the underlying cultural meanings that shape our practical interaction. The social category
and cultural meanings of food are central to this thesis, however the present thesis
maintains that the natural and biological dimensions of food, and its implications for both
93
the ânaturalâ and âsocialâ world are also important (Dowler et al. 2009, p.204). Kate Soper
emphasises the importance of the natural in her critical realist perspective of nature:
For there is one sense in which nature does always have a say in human activities
âŠThis is the ânatureâ to whose laws we are always subject, even as we harness
them to human purposes, and whose processes we can neither escape nor destroy.
This is the ânatureâ that cannot be said to be âendingâ whatever we do to the planet
Earth (Soper 2009, p.226).
As sociologists studying nature it is necessary to acknowledge that the physical properties
of nature limit what we are able to do, but we still have choices to make about what we
believe is beneficial within these restrictions (Soper 2009, p.226). Eder argues that âif we
wish to make possible the learning processes that can overcome the destructive relationship
to nature, we must again become aware of the symbolic foundations of that relationshipâ
(1996 [1988], p.viii).
However as the eating of food is a biological requirement for human life, an environmental
sociology of food must go beyond the dominant idea that sociology can only examine the
social and the cultural in contrast to the natural (Carter & Charles 2009, p.18). In this way
food must be simultaneously conceptualised and understood as symbolic and physical, a
subject and an object, both natural and cultural, such that âfoodâ can be a bridge between
nature and society. Murcott confirms this idea when she explains âeating marks the
characteristic way people are simultaneously biological and social; at once animal, but not
like other animals. Human beings belong to the worlds of both nature and cultureâŠ[it] has
both material and symbolic significanceâ (Murcott 1982, p.204). Furthermore food has
practical merit because unlike other broad and distanced environmental issues, the
consumption of food is something that all humans engage in everyday, and this daily
interaction makes environmental problems more relevant and accessible. For this reason
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this thesis agrees with Macnaghten and Urryâs notion, to recall the literature review, that
sociologists should focus on âembedded social practicesâ (1998, p.2). However this thesis
argues, like Eder, that our daily physical interaction with food is the âmost elementary and
simultaneously the most âsocialâ level of interaction with natureâ (Eder 1996 [1988], p.viii),
thus we must examine the social category and cultural meanings of food.
Civilisation and Kultur
The present thesis argues that underlying LĂ©vi-Strauss and Ederâs understandings of nature
and culture are notions of civilised and uncivilised. However their respective
interpretations are distinct, and so this thesis will now consider their perspectives with
reference to Norbert Eliasâs (2000 [1939]) discussion on the difference between âcultureâ
and âcivilisationâ in French and German contexts1. Elias investigated how people from
Western society have not always conducted themselves in our present understanding of
âcivilisedâ (Elias 2000 [1939], p.viiii). He explains that concepts of âcivilisationâ denote an
array of facts including, technology, manners, scientific knowledge, religious ideas and
customs, and even âthe way in which food is preparedâ (Elias 2000 [1939], p.5). However
Elias noticed that âcivilisationâ means different things to various Western nations, in
particular, he identified a great difference between the French and German uses of the term.
Elias describes this difference as a âpeculiar phenomenonâ because although the concepts
civilisation (French) and Kultur (German) are straightforward in their respective contexts,
he explains:
The way in which a piece of the world is bound up in them, the manner in
which they include certain areas and exclude others as a matter of course,
the hidden evaluations which they implicitly bring with them, all this makes
95
them difficult to define for any outsider (Elias 2000 [1939], p.6).
In essence the French concept of civilisation refers to the political or economic, technical or
religious, moral or social facts (Elias 2000 [1939], p.6). Civilisation downplays the
difference between people and accentuates the commonalities of all human beings, or as
Elias indicates, the commonalities âin the view of the bearersâ (2000 [1939], p.6).
Furthermore a central notion of civilisation is that it operates towards constant expansion
and colonisation. The German concept of Kultur, in contrast, denotes intellectual, artistic,
and religious facts, but is inclined to isolate these facts from political, economic, and social
facts (Elias 2000 [1939], p.6). A significant feature of Kultur is that it does not seek to
expand and colonise people, rather the âconcept of Kultur delimitsâ and emphasises national
diversity and the separate identity of groups.
Elias notes that the national self-images represented by the terms civilisation and Kultur
âtake very different forms. But however different the self-image...they all regard it as
completely self-evident that theirs is the way in which the world of humans in general
wants to be viewed and judgedâ (Elias 2000 [1939], p.7). Elias shows that however
reasonable and rational civilisation and Kultur may seem in their respective French and
German context, they have developed from a set of historical situations and different social
conditions of intellectual life in both countries (Goudsblom & Mennell 1998, p.47). In
France the concept of civilisation arose because the bourgeois intellectuals were included in
court society, which brought greater political activity than in other nations (Elias 2000
[1939], p.32). In Germany the social walls between middle class and aristocracy were
much stricter, and so aspiring middle class intellectuals remained politically
disenfranchised, but developed their own culture and expression (Elias 2000 [1939], p.32).
96
The present thesis will now argue that underlying LĂ©vi-Strauss and Ederâs understandings
of the nature/culture divide are notions of civilised and uncivilised that can be situated
within their respective French and German contexts. In LĂ©vi-Straussâs RC and CT he
proposed that cooking is a medium that reveals the unconscious binary of nature/culture in
the human mind. It is evident that this idea stems from the French notion of civilisation,
which sought to accentuate the commonalities of all human beings, or to recall Eliasâs
perspective, the commonalities âin view of the bearersâ (2000 [1939], p.6). In a similar
vein, LĂ©vi-Straussâs trans-historical concept that ânature progresses to cultureâ (1966a,
p.587) can be situated into the broader understanding of civilisation in the French context,
because the French believed that civilisation was a process that needs to be applied to all
societies, but is not yet finished (Elias 2000 [1939], p.40). In Germany the middle class
intellectuals were politically impotent, but intellectually radical and were critical of the
notion of civilisation because they believed it resulted from capitalism (Elias 2000 [1939]).
In this way Ederâs understanding that humanâs have remained âculturally naĂŻve
âPhilistinesââ in their interaction with natureâ (1996 [1988], p.viii) resulted from the
German perspective of âcivilisationâ as opposed to their notion Kultur.
It is evident from this comparison that LĂ©vi-Strauss and Ederâs diverse understandings of
the nature/culture divide were influenced by their respective concepts of âcivilisationâ in
French and German contexts. This comparison indicates that our interaction with food
becomes a metaphor of the civilised and uncivilised. This thesis set out to problematise the
nature/culture divide in modern society with the social category and cultural meanings of
food as a central lens. However it discovered through the hermeneutical reconstruction of
LĂ©vi-Strauss and Ederâs selected works that underlying the nature/culture divide is a
discourse about civilisation. The present thesis argues that food is a privileged way of
97
examining the nature/culture divide in modern society, because food is simultaneously
natural and cultural, and it intersects the broader industrial sphere and our everyday lives.
This thesis proposes that a future environmental sociology of food needs to examine âfoodâ
as an âelementary formâ because it is âan essential and permanent aspect of humanityâ
(Durkheim 1995 [1912], p.13). As Hogan (et al.) explain âNature is the condition of our
material existence, culture is our only means of encountering and re-forming natureâ (2010,
p.337). For this reason an environmental sociology of food must take into account the
underlying constitutions of meanings concerning food that inform our changing social
practices at a core level.
It is clear that the hermeneutical reconstruction of LĂ©vi-Strauss and Ederâs texts have
provided insight to show how the social category and cultural meanings of food are helpful
to problematise the nature/culture divide in modern society. This was the first step of a
larger research programme towards the development of a theoretical framework that will be
more adequate to the task of elaborating an environmental sociology of food. An
environmental sociology of food will go beyond the âadd and stirâ approach, that is to say,
one where the meanings of âfoodâ hold a privileged place in problematising the
culture/nature divide across cultures, histories, and modernities. This project, as the
preliminary step in a long-term research agenda, has sought to establish the centrality of
food in rethinking the culture/nature divide. However the current thesis does not seek to
overcome the nature/culture divide per se, rather it argues that the social category of food
problematises this divide in a new way, and through this renewed problematisation, new
insights into the human condition in modernity (and beyond) can emerge. In this approach
the nature/culture divide becomes less of a dichotomy and more of an interplay that can
98
engage in both social constructionist and critical realist perspectives, with consequences for
both theory and practice in modern society.
The global production and consumption of food is a major factor in environmental
problems (Ericksen 2008; Dowler et al. 2009; Garnett 2008; Leahy 2008; Pretty et al.
2005). It is important for sociologists, policymakers, and the broader public to think
critically about the taken-for-granted cultural meanings and assumptions about food, and to
examine how they influence our daily food practices, which may lead to richer
understandings of the nature/culture divide in modern society. The development of an
environmental sociology of food is a necessary part of an overall response to âone of the
most urgent problems facing humankindâ (Carter & Charles 2009, p.18). As Zygmunt
Bauman writes, 'the world full of possibilities is like a buffet table set with mouth-watering
dishes' (2000, p.63), but this is no 'free lunch' (Bauman 1997, p.4).
1 Elias makes a distinction between the civilisation of French and British contexts and Kultur of Germany. However for the purposes of this thesis (i.e. LĂ©vi-Strauss and Eder originate from France and Germany respectively), the present thesis will purely refer to the difference between French and German meanings of âcivilisationâ.
99
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