Research Project on Awadhi Cuisine by Rajiv Ranjan
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Transcript of Research Project on Awadhi Cuisine by Rajiv Ranjan
ON
COMPILED
BY:
Rajib Ranjan
A2706006104
Amity School of Hospitality
INDEX
GUIDE CERTIFICATE
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
OBJECTIVE
METHODOLOGY
LIMITATION
INTRODUCTION
ABOUT AWADH CUISINE
CULINARY TERMS
MUTTON
FISH
VEGETABLE FARE
PULSES
RICE
BREADS
SWEET DISHES
CURD DISHES
USE OF HERB & SPICES IN AWADA CUISINE
CONCLUSION
SUGGESTION
BIBLOGRAPHY
QUESTIONNAIRE
GUIDE’S CERTIFICATE
I have the pleasure to certify that __________________ a
student of ______________________ , has pursed his research
work and prepared the project “AWADH CUISINE ” under
my supervision and guidance . The present STUDY is the
result of this own research to the best of my knowledge.
This is being submitted to Amity School of Hospitality for
the Partial fulfillment of the requirements of the four year
full- time degree in hotel Management.
Guides Signature
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
This Project AWADH CUISINE is a successful out come
of my hard work with the help and guidance of my respectable
Sir.
I sincerely acknowledge the contribution of the suggestions
given by Mr. Pranshu Chomplay without which his project
could never became a ratify. Last but not least I acknowledge
all my friends who gave me suggestion and full support by
heart.
OBJECTIVES
1. To find the Overview of Awadh.
2. To find the Cuisine of Awadh.
3. To find the Food of Awadh.
4. To find the Dishes of Awadh.
5. To find the Dining of Awadh.
6. To find the Receipes of Awadh.
7. To find the Food Style of Awadh.
8. To find the Food Equipment of Awadh.
METHODOLOGY
1. Desk research, which includes: books, Internet,
magazines and journals.
2. Through personal and telephonic interviews.
3. Through correspondence with export managers, owners
of vineyards and eminent people in the industry by
means of e-mail and paper mail.
4. By attending shows, seminars, lectures, talks, forums,
etc.
LIMITATIONS
1. Non-availability of appropriate books regarding the
subject.
2. Contradictory statements regarding Awadh food in
different books.
3. Lack of opportunities to solve queries regarding Awadh
Food.
4. Since the subject of Awadh food is a very new one,
gaining knowledge from the people concerned was very
difficult as few experts are available in this field.
5. Trying to gain access to these experts to interview
them was another problem.
INTRODUCTION
Food occupies the highest position in most cultures and
religions. A most unique example of spiritualism manifested
in a physical form… the evidence of the bounties of God and
human motivation for existence.
'Pahile Taam Badahu Kalaam'
'First food then communication,' is the evidence of its
supreme position, Considerable spirituality revolves around
food, which is blessed and elevated to the position of'
Nemat' - the special creations of God for His most special
creation, the human being, this opens a different dimension
to the subject of food….
What. How much, which meal is blessed, when. ,Where and
how - and how much and most importantly when to negate
food fasting, dieting, etc.
From the finer layers of all this is born the culture of food.
The evolution of the 'Zaiqa', the taste,.. And it pervades the
entire milieu, from festivities to celebrations, from intimate
'nashishts' to public 'mahfils', The aroma rises from smoke
filled kitchens to elaborate 'dastarkhwans' where words and
images are as cleverly woven, as condiments and herbs,..
where the same m~at tells a different story through its
varied 'Zaiqa', Yet, food is an intimate feeling of loving care
and
warmth of human relationships. It is the most regular and
the most consistent form of reinforcing tenderness.
Food in Awadh had evolved to become a total experience of
an occasion - fragrant, visually appealing and almost
magical.. and truly such is the scope of this book - extremely
detailed, well researched and evocative of the ambience of a
bygone era. It brings to life a number of recipes and
techniques that had gone into oblivion; and with it a new
interest in this rich
Form of cuisine; it opens an enormous future for the refined
international palate, the art of cooking and above all the
promotion of Lucknow - because there is no substitute for
enjoying this fare other than in its own milieu. It ranges from
simple to the rich, exotic to the earthy, and for the gourmet
opens up a vast canvas to create and balance a wide range
of menus to suit every possible taste to leave an everlasting
impression...
ABOUT AWADH CUISINE
It was 137 years ago that the last of the kings of Avadh
walked on the sarzameen (land) of their beloved
Lucknow. While these monarchs sat on the throne of
Avadh, there was nothing that they left untouched,
thankfully, for their touch was like the proverbial magic
wand. It could raise the most mundane of activities into
the realm of art and to unattained heights of excellence.
Little wonder that even bawarchis became master
creator of culinary delights. Powerful courts all over India
vyed with each other to wean away a cook who had
either worked or was trained in Lucknow. To belong to
Lucknow was the highest qualification a cook could hold.
The ruler of Avadh engaged in peaceful pursuits since
the battle of Buxar, and laid the foundation of a culture
which dazzled the world. Under their patronage
developed a cuisine which did not remain the
prerogative of royalty alone. Recipes traveled from the
royal kitchens of the nobilities and from there, to the
kichens of ordinary people.
All the while, research and innovation proceeded
unabated in the bawarchi khanas of the royalty and
aristocracy where money was no constraint, neither was
time. In the mid 18th century, in the personal bawarchi
khana of Nawab Shuja-Ud-Daula, Rs. 60,000 was spent
per month or Rs. 7.2 lakhs per year on the preparation of
dishes. The dishes which adorned his dastarkhwan did
not come from the kitchen alone but from five other
bawarchikhanas, including that of his mother Nawab
Begum and his wife Bahu Begum. These ladies
separately spent Rs. 9,000 per every month on the
preparation of food. The staggering salaries of the
hierarchy of cooks and other kitchen staff came from a
separate budget.
However, high salaries were not the only reason for the
excellent performance of the cooks. They were given
total freedom to pursue their work their own way.
Examples of cooks laying down conditions of
employment before crowned heads, and the latter
meekly accepting them, would only be found in
Lucknow. And in Lucknow alone would you find cooks
strutting off in a huff if the king did not sit down for a
meal when told to do so by the cook because the food
was hot. A tale is told of a cook employed only to
prepare mash ki dal (arhar ki dal) on a monthly salary of
Rs. 500. The dal was not cooked daily but once in a
while, and the king was condition bound to sit down at
the dastarkhwan when he cook announced that dal was
ready. The king once delayed, so the cook left. Before
leaving, he emptied the contents of the dish at a place
where stood a stalk of a dead tree. In a few days, leaves
started sprouting from the stalk and before long, the
tree turned a healthy green colour (source: Abdul
Sharar’s The last phase of an Oriental Culture). The story
may appear like an exaggeration but the fact remains
that the ingredients that went into the preparation of the
royal dishes were very nutritious.
It was unwritten law that the master would sanction
whatever quantity of ingredients the cook demanded. No
questions were asked nor doubts expressed. Another
popular story goes that king Ghazi-ud-din Haider slapped
his vazir Agha Meer for reducing the quantity of ghee
used by the cook in preparing parathas. The king was no
fool. He said that even if the cook pilfered some ghee, so
what? The parathas he made were excellent, while ”you
rob the whole monarchy and think nothing of it.”
It was not royalty alone who pampered their cooks. The
nobility, aristocracy and people of lesser means too
maintained well stocked and well staffed kitchens from
where were turned out the most exotic of dishes.
Begums and ordinary housewives too preserved in their
kitchens and acquired an excellence that could match
the skills of a professional bawarchi.
Lazeez Lauki
Broadly, there are three categories of cooks in Lucknow.
The bawarchis cook food in large quantities. The
rakabdars cook in small gourmet quantities. Rakabdars
also specialize in the garnishing and presentation of
dishes. The nanfus make a variety of roti, chapattis,
naans, sheermals, kulchas and taftans.
Normally, one cook does not prepare the entire meal.
There are specialists for different dishes and also a
variety of helpers like the degbos who wash the utensils,
the masalchis who grind the masala and the mehris who
carry the khwan (tray) to be spread on the dastarkhwan.
The wealthy always had their kitchens supervised by
an officer called daroga-e-bawarchi khana or mohtamim.
It was this officer’s seal on the khwan that guaranteed
quality control.
The Lucknow dastarkhwan would not be complete unless
it had the following dishes. Qorma (braised meat in thick
gravy), salan (a gravy dish of meat or vegetable), qeema
(minced meat), kababs (pounded meat fried or roasted
over a charcoal fire), bhujia (cooked vegetables), dal,
pasinda (fried slivers of very tender meat, usually kid, in
gravy) Rice is cooked with meat in the form in the form
of a pulao, chulao (fried rice) or served plain. There
would also be a variety of rotis. Deserts comprise gullati
(rice pudding), kheer (milk sweetened and boiled with
whole rice to a thick consistency), sheer brunj, (a rich,
sweet rice dish boiled in milk), muzaffar (vermicelli fried
in ghee and garnished with saffron).
The Lucknowi’s menu changes with the seasons and with
the festival which mark the month. The severity of
winters is fought with rich food. Paye (trotters) are
cooked overnight over a slow fire and the shorba (thick
gravy) eaten with naans. Turnips are also cooked
overnight with meat koftas and kidneys and had for
lunch. This dish is called shab degh and a very popular in
Lucknow. The former Taluqdar of Jehangirabad would
serve it to his friends on several occasions during
winter.
Zamin Doz Machchli
Birds like patridge and quail are had from the advent of
winter since they are heat giving meats. Fish is relished
from the advent of winter till spring. It is avoided in the
rainy season. Lucknowis prefer river fish particularly
rahu (carp), for fish bones are the last thing they would
like to struggle with for this reason, fish kababs (cooked
in mustard oil) are preferred.
Peas are the most sought after vegetable in Lucknow.
People never tire of eating peas. One can spot peas in
salan, qeema, pulao or just fried plain.
Sawan (spring) is celebrated with pakwan (crisp snacks),
phulkis (besan pakoras in salan), puri-kababs and birahis
(paratha stuffed with mashed dal) khandoi (steamed
balls of dal in a salan), laute paute (gram flour pancakes,
rolled and sliced and served in a salan) and colocasia-
leaf cutlets served with salan add variety. Raw mangoes
cooked in semolina and jaggery or sugar, makes a
delicious dessert called curamba, in summer. These
dishes come from the rural Hindu population of
Lucknow.
Activity in the kitchen increases with the approach of
festivals. During Ramzan, the month of fasting, the
cooks and the ladies of the house are busy throughout
the day preparing the iftari (the meal eaten at the end of
the day’s fast), not only for the family but for the friends
and the poor.
Id is celebrated with varieties of siwaiyan (vermicelli) –
Muzzaffar is a favouritein Lucknow. Shab-e-barat is
looked forward to for its halwas particularly of semolina
and gram flour. Khichra or haleem , a del;icious mixture
of dals wheat and meat, cooked together, is had during
Muharram, since it signifies a sad state of mind.
There are dishes which appear and disappear from the
Lucknow dastarkhwan with the season and there are
those which are a permanent feature, like the qorma,
the chapatti and the roomali roti. The test of a good
chapatti is that you should be able to see the sky
through it. The dough should be very loose and is left in
a lagan (deep broad vessel) filled with water for half an
hour before the chapattis are made.
Sheermals were invented by mamdoo bawarchi more
than one and a half century ago. They are saffron
covered parathas made from a dough of flour mixed with
milk and ghee and baked in iron tandoors. No other city
produces sheermals like Lucknow does and the festive
dastarkhwan is not complete without it. Saffron is used
to flavour sweets too.
Utensils are made either of iron or copper. Meat kababs
are cooked in a mahi tawa (large, round shallow pan),
using a kafgir which is a flat, long handled ladle for
turning kababs and parathas. Bone china plates and
dishes were used in Lucknow since the time of Nawabs.
Water was normally sipped from copper or silver kato
ras and not glasses. The seating arrangement, while
eating was always on the floor where beautifully
embroidered dastarkhwans were spread on dares and
chandnis (white sheets). Sometimes this arrangement
was made on a takht or low, wide wooden table.
CULINARY TERMS
DHUNGAR
This is a quick smoke procedure used to flavour a meat dish,
daIs or even raita. The smoke very effectively permeates
every grain of the ingredients and imparts a subtle aroma,
which enhances the quality of the dish. The procedure may
be carried out either at the intermediate or the final stage of
cooking. This is a common technique employed while making
kababs. The method is as follows. In a shallow utensil or a
lagan in which the meat or mince has been marinated, a
small bay is made in the center and a katori or onion skin or
even a betel leaf (depending on the dish) is placed. In it a
piece of live coal is placed and hot ghee, sometimes mixed
with aromatic herbs or spices, is poured over it and covered
immediately with a lid to prevent the smoke from escaping.
The lid is not removed till about 15 minutes, so as to allow
the smoke to work on the ingredients inside. The coal is then
removed from the utensil and the meat put through further
cooking processes.
DUM DENA
This is a frequently method used in Awadh cooking. 'Dum'
literally means 'breath' and the process involves placing the
semi-cooked ingredients in a pot or deg, sealing the utensil
with flour dough and applying very slow charcoal fire from
top, by placing some live charcoal on the lid, and some
below. The Persian influence is most evident in this method
though in Awadh it has acquired its own distinct character.
The magic of dum' is the excellent aroma, flavor and texture
which results from slow cooking. This method is followed for
a number of delicacies such as the Shabdeg, Pulao and
Biryani. Any dish cooked by this method is 'Dum Pukht' or
'Dum Bakht'.
GALAVAT
Refers to the use of softening agents such as papain (from
raw papaya) or kalmi shora to tenderise meat.
BAGHAR
This is a method of tern pering a dish with hot oil / ghee and
spices. It may be done either at the beginning of the cooking
as in curries, or at the end as for (pulses). In the former, the
fat is heated in a vessel to a smoking point and after
reducing the flame, spices are added to it. When they begin
to crackle. the same process is carried out in a ladle which is
immersed in the cooked dish and immediately covered with
a lid, so that the essence and the aroma of the spices, drawn
out by the hot ghee are retained in the dish giving it their
flavour.
GILE HIKMAT
Talking of Persian influence on Awadh cuisine one cannot
ignore this in teresting method adopted for cooking. 'Gil' in
Persian is earth or mud and 'Hikmat' implies the procedure
of the Hakims. This method is generally followed to prepare
'Kushtas' which are the ash-like residue of substances which
cannot be consumed in their natural form as they are toxic,
for instance gems or metals. But when adopted for cooking
purposes the method is as follows. The meat or vegetable to
be cooked is generally taken whole and stuffed with nuts and
spices, It is then wrapped in a banana leaf or cloth and
covered completely with clay or 'Multani Mitti' (Fuller's Earth)
so as to seal it. It is thereafter buried about 4-6 inches deep.
Aslow fire is then placed on top for 6-8 hours after which the
food is dug out and is ready to be served!
LOAB
This is a term which refers to the final stage in cooking when
the oil used during cooking, rises to the surface. giving the
dish a finished appearance, This occurs mostly when slow
cooking of gravy dishes is involved.
MOIN
It is the shortening of dough. In this process fat is rubbed
into the flour and made into a dough for kachoris or pooris
orparathas. This makes the final product crisp, flaky and
crumbly.
ITTR (Perfumes)
The use of perfumes play an important role in Awadh cuisine
they are used to enhance the aroma of the dish and make it
delicate. Most commonly they are made from musk deer,
hunting of which is now banned worldwide.
Yakhni cuts (Mutton)
The cuts for Yakhni are generally bony pieces with flesh on
them. These cuts are usually taken from the joints and the
ribs of the animal. The basic purpose of mea t in preparing
Yakhni is to derive the juice and flavour and hence the shape
of the meat does not count much.
Chandi warq
This is the process in which small pieces of silver are placed.
between two sheets of paper and then patted continuously
with a hammer till it becomes papery thin. These are used in
decorating the dishes before presentations, e.g. Chandi
kaliya, Moti pulao.
Zamin doz
This is a style of cooking in which a hole is dug in the ground
and the ingredients are placed and covered with mud. Then
burning charcoal is placed over it. The cooking process takes
about 6 hours.
Bhagona
Or the patili is generally of brass with a lid. It is used when a
great deal of 'bhunna' or saute is required. or even for
boiling and simmering. It is also used for preparingYakhni or
Salan, Korma or Kaliya.
Deg/Degchi
This is a pear-shaped pot with a lid of either brass, copper or
aluminium. The shape of this utensil is ideally suited for the
'd:Jm' method and is used for cooking Pulaa, Biryani, Nehari
or Shab Deg.
Kadhai
is a deep, cancave utensil made afbrass, iron or aluminium
and is used far deep frying paoris and the like.
Lagan
is a round and shallow copper utensil with a slightly concave
bottom. Used for cooking whole or big cuts of meat or
poultry especially when heat is applied from both the top
and bottom.
Lobe ka tandoor
It is an iron tandoor. as distinct from the clay tandoor more
common in Delhi. It is a kind of dome-shaped iron oven used
for making most breads such as the Sheermal. Taftan,
Bakarkhani etc.
Mahi tawa
is the Awadh version of the griddle shaped like a big round,
flat bottomed tray with raised edges. used for cooking
kababs. Also used for dishes where heat is applied from both
ends. when covered.
SEENI
is a big thali (round tray) usually used as a lid for the lagan
or mahi tawa when heat is to be applied from the top. Live
charcoal is placed on it and the heat is transmitted through it
to the food. Thus the indirect heat has the desired effect of
browning and cooking the ingredients. All the copper and
brass utensils are almost always used after 'kalai' or tin
plating the insides.
MUTTON
The verdant plains of north India abound in cattle population.
Traditional farming also encompasses rearing of other
animals such as goats, sheep and pigs. Poultry farming is
also common.' In and around Lucknow rearing goat and
poultry for the table is most prevalent. Religion and tradition
have led to the choice of lamb, chicken and fish as the
favourite meats. But mutton is the fare that has stimulated
the culinary genius of the cooks of Awadh in a way no other
meat has. The passion for perfection and style has led the
cooks, and even the butchers, to evolve specific
preparations, for instance the pasanda, chop, raan and so
on. It is commonplace here to find customers at the
butcher's shop patiently waiting for the cuts of their choice.
Frozen and pre-cut mutton is almost unthinkable in these
parts. For the cook as well as the gourmet, the quality of
meat is something that can not be compromised on. The
meat of the male goat is preferred as it is believed to
have more flavour and marrow in the bones, The age of the
animal is also considered while buying meat. If tender meat
is required, as for 'Hakeem' then a younger animal is
preferred.whereas when flavour gets precedence. then the
more mature goat is ordered. Thus the selection of meat is
an art espoused by passion and not as mundane as buying
Beluga Caviar or Smoked Salmon off a K-mart shelf. It would
be pertinent, here to acquaint the reader with the typical
mutton cuts used in this region for its cuisine. Roughly
following the order of dissection. the various cuts are as
follows:
The neck portion of the lamb has non-fibrous meat and is
therefore suited for cooking a korma. salan. pulao or biryani.
The rib cage offers a variety of cuts. The 'chops' are cuts on
the backbone and are part of the ribs. Usually a single rib is
cut. However, if the goat is young two ribs are combined.
Because of the high bone marrow content and the tender
meat which is least fibrous. this cut is used for delicate
kormas. kaliyas, pulaos and biryani.
Another cut is the pasli ka panja which comprises four to five
ribs of the floating end. that is, ribs on the breast side
forming the cage, connected with tissues and very tender
meat. The flesh outside the rib cage is tender and has a lot
of fat attached to it known as the rawaz which is used for
cooking purposes and also incorporated in the dough for
breads such as Sheermal.
When the fat is removed from the flesh the meat still
remains streaky. Cut into small pieces, they are called
parchas a,nd are specially used for biryani and pulao, If
minced, it is called chikna keema which is a high quality
mild flavoured mince used for delicate kabab preparation
such as the Galavat Kabab.
The front legs or agli dast and the hind legs or the raan are
the most versatile in terms of the cuts.
The trotter or the Paye are essentially the bones. which are
used for making the Paya Shorba, a kind of soup which is a
popular ingredient of the Nehari in the winter months and
also prescribed by the Hakims for convalescing patients.
These are also used for making jelly saffron and sweetened
with sugar chilled and served as a dessert.
The two central bones of each leg contain a good amount of
marrow and are always cut into two halves. The cut obtained
is called the nalli and is always in good demand. The meat
surrounding the nalli boti consists of several bands of
tendons covered with tissues. This elongated piece of flesh
tapers down to a band which is connected to the bone joints.
This portion is called the kareli or machhli (fish) owing to its
silvery and slippery appearance. The cut obtained by cutting
across the grain of the muscles is called the kareli boti which
is delicious when cooked in Nehari, korma or kaliya. The
upper leg portion of the hind leg is the raan. The raan can be
cooked while like the Western 'roast' and is called the 'Raan
Mussallam', Besides, flat pieces can be obtained from the
raan which are called pasanda used for the delectable
Pasanda Kababs which can either be skewered or cooled in
the lagan, The mince obtained from the raan or the rookha
keema is fat free and used for making kababs such as Patili
Kababs, Kakori Kababs and Shami Kababs.
The rump or the puth is basically a bony structure but
contains the liver and kidneys and a lot of fat attached to it
called the charbi which is used for cooking purposes, The
fleshy portion is called the puth ka parda and is used whole
on skewers for the Parda Kababs or for obtaining mince. The
botis or cuts along the backbone are used in salans and
Yakhni. The liver and kidneys are cooked separately as a dry
preparation and are quite delicious and nutritious.
FISHThe court of the Nawabs of Awadh were not only resplendent
with musicians and dancers but also sportsmen like
wrestlers and swimmers who performed feats for the
noblemen. The authors were able to trace out one of the last
vestiges, of that ancient tradition in Nawab Agha of
Sheeshmahal. He is the grandson of Nawab Mir Fazle Ali
Khan Bahadur who was honoured by the title of 'Mir Machhli'
by Nawab Ghazi-ud-din Halder.
and can stay afloat. He is known in Lucknow as 'Mainaz-e-
Fairak' (the ace swimmer). Even now at the age of 70, he
can dive from the top of the Husainabad Clock Tower like his
illustrious grandfather.
Apart from water sports. the water of the Gomti and several
ponds in this region offer the best variety of fresh water fish
like the Rohu. Sole. Taingan. Pata, Moh.and Mahasher. The
biggest fish market in Lucknow is in the Qaiserbagh where
you can get the choicest variety offresh water fish. The best
time to consume the fish is between September and April.
Though mutton is more popular among the people of Awadh,
their passion for fish is also remarkable. The wide array of
fish recipes requiring different techniques of cooking are
ample proof of this. A saying thus goes. "Ask a fish what is
its last wish is and it will say - 'to be eaten by an Awadhi'."
KANTA GALI
MACHHLIINGREDIENTS
1 kg Fish
2 kg Curd
1-kg Onion
6 cloves Garlic
1 tsp Garam masala
Salt to taste
250 gms Ghee
Y2litre Water
125 gms Mustard oil
Cut fish into halves. Place a mahi tawa on fire and pour
mustard oil on it. When hot put the fish on it and fry both
sides. Meanwhile, keep 112litre hot water ready. When the
fish is fried on both sides, immerse it in hot water for 5
minutes and then in cold water. Next, remove the skin of the
fish. Finely slice the onions and fry in the ghee to a golden
brown. Add chopped ginger, garlic, red chilli powder and
garam masala, curd and salt. Stuff some masala in the fish
by slitting it lengthways. Place a patili on fire, make a bed of
masala in it, place the fish on it, and top with the remaining
masala. Cover the patili and seal with dough. Cook on a very
slow fire for 6-7 hours. The bones of the fish by now would
have been cooked. Serve hot with chapati.
VEGETARIAN FAREThe Gangetic plain, which cradled the erstwhile kingdom of
Awadh, has been a great melting pot of diverse religious and
cultures. In Awadh, the Hindus and the Muslims have
coexisted amicably for years, and sohas their cuisine.
Whilethe Muslims favour a eat-based diet, the Hindus have
been predominantly, vegetarians. Though these days, owing
to centuries of intermingling of cultures.
sherbets, gourds and kulfi whereas in winter the appetite is
perked up with Nimona (a green pea and lentil dumpling
preparation), gobhi mussallqm and hot kheer. The fertile
plains yield a variety of crops and vegetables. Whether
homegrown or bought from the local 'sabzi-mandi'
(vegetable market), the accent is always on the freshness of
the vegetables. Apart from vegetables, milk and milk
products are a vital component of the vegetarian diet. Owing
to a long tradition of cattle rearing, milk has been a common
source of nutrition. Milk products such as balai, khoya,
butter, ghee and curds are put to good use in Awadhi
cuisine. Lentils or pulses are also an important source of
proteins for the vegetarian and almost always feature on the
daily vegetarian menu. Rice and wheat breads such as the
roti, paratha. puri, kachori are the common accompaniments
alongwith relishes such as pickles, chutneys and 'murabbas'
(preserves).
KARELA KA DULMA
INGREDIENTS
6 Bitter gourds (karela)
3 Onions
6 Cloves garlic
2 tsp Coriander powder
1 tsp Turmeric powder
1 V2tsp Aniseed
1 tsp Black onion seeds
1 tsp Chironji
5 Cashewnuts
4 tsp Salt
150 gms Ghee or oil
Wash the gourds, lightly scrape the skin with a knife, cut off
the top and keep aside. Gently scrape out the fish and
seeds with a knife with a narrow blade. In Y2litre of water,
dissolve 3 tsp. salt and soak the gourds in it for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, grate the onions, extract juice of the garlic and
keep aside. Lightly roast the aniseed and black onion seeds
on a griddle and pound. Also lightly roast the chronic and
cashew nuts and grind to a paste. Now, in a griddle heat a
tablespoon of ghee/oil to a smoking point. Reduce the name
and sprinkle the garlic juice. Then add the grated onions and
saute for 5 minutes. Next add all the dry masalas including
mango and turmeric powder. nut paste. salt and saute on a
slow name for 5 minutes. Remove and keep. Remove the
karelas from brine, and squeeze out water. Invert and keep
in a sieve or dry in the sun for 15 minutes. Then fill each
gourd with the masala paste, put the cut end on the gourd
and stitch with a needle and thread to make it secure. Heat
ghee or oil in a kadhai or frying pan to a smoking point.
Reduce the name and carefully place all the gourds in it and
cover and cook on a slow FLAME. Cover and cook till all sides
are evenly done. Remove with a slotted spoon, draining
away excess oil. Serve hot or at
room temperature with chapatis. Remove the thread before
serving.
GOBHI MUSSALLAM
INGREDI E N T S
1 (medium size) Cauliflower
1 large Onion
1" piece Ginger
1 tbsp Poppy seeds
5 Cashewnuts
1tsp Turmeric powder
1tsp Chilli powder
Salt to taste
1 Blade Mace
1 Stick Cinnamon
5 Green cardamoms
5 Cloves
150 gms Curd
100 gms Ghee
250 gms Shelled green peas
1/.1tsp Cumin seeds
Wash the whole cauliflower, cut off the main stalk and
remove the leaves. Finely slice the onion, fry to a golden
brown colour and grind to a paste using some of the curd.
Separately grind the ginger, mace, cinnamon, cardamom
and cloves. Lightly roast the poppy seeds and cashewnuts on
a griddle and grind to a paste. Parboil cauliflower in half litre
salted water. Remove. Now in a kadhai. heat the ghee in
which the onions were fried and place the cauliflower upside-
down first so as to lightly brown it. Turn and cook the stem
side for 5 minutes. Remove and place in the curd. Mix all the
ground ingredients, chilli and turmeric powder and salt and
pour over the cauliflower. In a lagan, place the cauliflower
along with the marinade. Pour ghee on the top and sides,
saving 1 tbsp for the peas. Cover and place slow charcoal
fire on the lid and also below the lagan. Cook till the masala
is dry but moist and the cauliflower is done. Meanwhile. in
the kadhai heat a tbsp. of ghee and add the cumin seeds.
When they begin to crackle, add the shelled peas. a pinch of
salt and cook till tender. When the cauliflower is done. serve
on a bed of peas.
PULSESThe Awadh diet is based on meats, vegetables. cereals and
legumes. Pulses or 'daIs' are commonly consumed and are
relatively cheap, and rich in proteins. A dal is a vital
component of the poorman's diet. Even the dastarkhwans of
the rich. Full 'ofmeat and sweets, extended to accommodate
a wide array of dals. which were prepared with great
passion. With their Midas touch, the rakabdars transformed
the humblest of dals to the esoteric. Legend has it that a
certain rakabdar of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, specialised in
cooking daIs. He would use one 'asharfi' (gold coin) for every
'Baghar'. This practice intrigued the treasurer who suspected
some foul play. Hoping to catch the cook red-handed, he
appeared in the kitchen one day to enquire about the fate of
the gold coins. On being questioned, the cook politely told
him t!:Iat there was no need for such suspicion and pointed
towards a shelf where all the coins were neatly stacked. But
when the amazed officer tried to pick up a coin. It turned to
dust in his hands Gone are the Nawabs and the 'asharfis' but
the people of this region are still enthusiastic about the
various dals. They are particularly passionate about the
Arhar ki Oal or Pigeon-pea, which incidentally is a legume
which takes the longest time (about 9 months) to mature in
the field.
RICE
North Indians pride themselves in growing the world's finest
variety of scented rice known as 'Pilaf Rice or Basmati Rice.
In the region of Awadh, the cooking of rice attained
superlative heights of fineness, both in terms of variety and
method of preparation, often considered a symbol of
prosperity in these parts. No festive occasion or celebration
goes without a rice preparation. Also, no other region of
India can boast of more varieties of Rice, which is
appreciated more in Delhi and Hyderabad, is considered to
be a poor cuisine of the exalted Pulao. The former was
considered an affront on the sensibilities of the exalted to
the. method of cooking colour and form, which were
considered rat her crude. The Yakhn1'Pulao,'on the other
hand, is a beautiful. aesthetic. blend of rich mutton stock,
aromatic spices, balai and rice. The delicate flavour and
aroma of this pulao is a treat to the senses.
BREADS
Indian breads have a unique character. very different from
their Western counterparts in terms of taste and variety. The
knowledge of the art of making bread is very basic to any
cook. Always prepared fresh and hot for every meal. or at
the most. carried over for the next meal, a day bread is not
considered.
The variety of breads is immense ranging from the humble
roti to the naan the poori and paratha. Each of these
categories, in turn has several varieties too. In Awadh alone
as many as 15b'varietles of bread are known to have been
cooked! The dough for one bread differs from the others ill
the composition of fat ingredients.
ROOMALI ROTI
Sift the wheat flour and refined flour with salt. Rub in the
melted ghee. Slowly add water and make a soft dough. Keep
it covered with a damp cloth for 30 minutes. The dough
should be very elastic. Knead well again. Divide the dough in
6 equal portions. Shape them into round balls. Roll out each
ball into small rounds on the floured 'chakla' (wooden disk).
Hold this on the back of your palm and circle it/twist it anti-
clockwise and swing it, then again catch it on the back of
palm of the same hand. Keep repeating until the diameter of
the same becomes about 30 cms. Care should be taken to
maintain the round shape and even thickness throughout.
These rotis are cooked on the convex side of the griddle,
something like an inverted kadhai or wok and takes just
about a minute to cook. These rotis are folded into quarters
or sixes.
INGREDIENTS
150 gms Whole wheat flour
50 gms Refined flour Salt to taste
10 ml Melted ghee
Cold water for kneading
TAFTANINGREDIENTS
450 gms Flour
25 gms Yeast
2 tbsp Curd
3 tsp Sugar
2 tsp Salt.
2 Eggs
150. ml Milk
25 gms Ghee
25 gms Oil
1 tbsp Kalonji
Warm milk. sprinkle yeast and sugar keep aside till it starts
to froth. Sift flour with salt. Make a bay paste in the centre.
Pour the fermented yeast mixture. curd. eggs (beaten) and
oil. Knead the dough to a smooth and elastic consistency.
Place in a greased bowl and keep in a warm place for 6-8
hours. Punch the dough and make medium-sized round balls
of equal size. Brush with oil and again keep aside for another
20 minutes. Roll out each with a rolling pin so that it is broad
at one end and very narrow at the other. Then pull the
narrow end gently so as to give it the shape of a tear drop.
Brush with ghee. sprinkle kalonji. and bake in a hot tandoor.
basting with milk and ghee. Serve hot.
DAL KACHORI
INGREDIENTS
FOR DOUGH
450 gms Flour
50 gms Sooji
25 gms Ghee/Mustard oil
1 tbsp Salt
Cold water to knead
FOR FILLING
200 gms Urad dal
5 gms Fennel seeds
A pinch asafoetida
1 tbsp Garam Masala
10 gms Red Chilli Powder
Salt to taste
5 gms Cumin powder
25 gms Ghee/oil
FOR FRYING
250 gms Ghee or oil
Soak urad dal overnight and grind to a coarse paste Coarsely
pound the fennel seeds. Add asafetida. garam
masala. chilli powder. salt. cumin powder and fennel seeds
powder. Cook in a kadhai with ghee till it leaves the sides
and becomes dry. Keep aside and cool. Prepare hard dough
with flour and sooji using cold water. Cover with a damp
cloth and keep aside for 30 minutes. Then make walnut
sized balls from the dough for rolling. Flatten the dough on
the palms and stuff a little filling. Seal and roll to the size of
5-7 cm in diameter and deep fry in ghee turning once. Strain
after the kachori puffs up and becomes golden brown
in colour. Serve hot with vegetables or mango pickle. Dal
Kachori is a festive bread. almost always incorporated in a
vegetarian menu in north India. Stuffed with urad dal it is
eaten as a snack as well as a meal. served with vegetables
or raita.
KULCHA
INGREDIENTS
450 gms Flour
50 gms Yogurt
15 gms Ghee
1 tbsp Sugar
150 ml Milk
15 gms Yeast
1 tbsp Salt
Sprinkle yeast. sugar and salt in warm milk and leave it to
froth for 20 minutes. Sift flour, make a bay in the center. Add
the fermented mixture, melted ghee and make a dough with
yogurt. Cover with a damp cloth and leave it to rise for 3-4
hours. Divide into equal rounds and bake it in a hot tandoor
basting with milk. Serve hot.
SWEET DISHES
The degree of finesse of a cuisine can be judged by a look at
its sweets and desserts. The rich, extravagant and highly
decorated sweets of Lucknow reflect its past glories. The
contribution of both the Hindu halwai and Muslim rakabdar
have resulted in a confluence of expertise in the making of
an exquisite varieties of sweets. The Barfi, Peda, Jalebi, Balai
ke Tukre, Shahi Tukre, Halwa, Kheer Sewain are just a few
varieties to illustrate the
Each of these has several varieties too. These sweets mostly
milk based with a liberal.
SEWAIN KA MUZAFFAR
INGREDIENTS
400 gm Roasted vermicelli/Sewain
400 gm Sugar
150 gm Ghee
400 ml Milk
½ tsp Saffron
FOR GARNISH
200 gm Khoya
10 gm Pistachio nuts
30 gm Almonds
50 gm Cashewnuts
3-4 Silver foil
Soak saffron in little milk and grind. Cut nuts into 'hawaiyan I
slivered'. Mash and 'fry khoya for few minutes until light
brown. Heat ghee at moderate Harne in a shallow pan. Fry
sewai on slow fire till light brown. Add milk. Stir quickly to
blend. Cook for 2-3 minutes. Add sugar. mix well and cover.
Cook gently until sugar which turns into syrup is absorbed
and sewai are dry. Add half of the khoya and mix well.
Arrange into serving dish and garnish with remaining khoya,
nuts and silver leaf (warq) on top.
HALWA-E- BADAAM INGREDIENTS
500 gms Almonds
250 gms Poppy seeds
4 litre Milk
500 gms Khoya
750 gms Sugar
750 gms Ghee
1/1tsp Saffron
10 Green cardamoms
2 Silver leafs
Soak the almonds in 1 litre water overnight. Soak the poppy
seeds in a cup of milk mixed with a cup of water for 1 hour.
Mash khoya to fine crumbs and keep aside. Pound the
cardamom to a fine powder. Peel and grind the almonds to a
fine paste. Drain all the liquid from the poppy seeds by
passing them through a fine sieve and grind to a paste.
Blend the almonds and poppy seeds paste in the milk to
form a smooth mixture. pour in a thick kadhai and cook on
slow flame. preferably wood or charcoal fire. Stirring
constantly. When the mixture begins to thicken. add the
sugar and saffron dissolved in warm milk and stir till the
sugar dissolves. When the mAA halwa leaves the sides of the
kadhai and turns to a golden pink colour, remove in a bowl
or a tray. It tastes best when had hot.
SHEER BRANJBoil milk, add washed rice and cook gently till tender. Add
half of the sugar. Do not stir until it boils again. Stir and cook
gently for few minutes. Add mashed khoya little by little
mixing well to avoid lump formation. Add half of the kewra
jal. and remaining sugar. Mix and keep on adding remaining
kewra jal. Keep stirring. Cook until thickened and it sticks to
the spoon. Pour melted ghee mixing well. Grind malai. with
cashewnut paste and mitha ittr. Add to sheerbranj. Add
elaichi powder. Cool to room temperature. Serve garnished
with cream and hawaiyan (slivers) of pista and almonds.
INGREDIENTS
3 litres Milk
60 gms Basmati Rice
400 gms Sugar
200 gms Khoya
100 gms Ghee
60 gms Cashewnut paste
200 gms Balai (Malai)
200 gms Cream
60 gms Pista + Almonds
Few drops mitha ittr
1% cup Kewra jal
¼ tsp Elaichi powder
SHAKRAMBA
Wash and peel the mangoes and cut long slices of it Remove
the seeds. Heat the ghee and saute the mango slices for 5
minutes on a medium flame. Remove with a slotted spoon
and keep. In the same ghee add the cloves and cardamoms
and roast the sooji flour for 10 minutes on a slow flame.
Then add milk and stir constantly to prevent lump formation.
Cook for 10 minutes. In a separate vessel make sugar syrup
with the sugar and a cup of water. When the sugar dissolves
boil the mango slices in it for 5 minutes. Then add the
mango slices with the syrup to the sooji and milk mixture.
Blend well. Cool and serve at lunch or
breakfast.
INGREDIENTS
1 litre Milk
3 tbsp Sooji (Semolina)
2 Cloves
4 Green cardamoms
30 ml Ghee
CURD DISHES
Curd or natural yoghurt has been part of the Indian diet
since time immemorial. Its cooling and digestive properties
are well known. Used as a marinade. a cooling agent, salad
dressing. beverage or dessert. it has a wide array of
possibilities. In Indian cuisine its use in 'curries and raitas' is
well- known. Raita is served as a side dish with meats and
vegetables. the main purpose being to tone down the effect
of the hot spices.
BOORANI INGREDIENTS
250 gm Curd
Salt to taste
½ tsp Pepper
Sieve the curd through muslin cloth or a fine sieve. Add salt
and pepper and blend well. Serve in a bowl along with a
korma and pulao dish.
KHEERA KA RAITA
I N G R E DIE N T S
250 gms Curd
1 medium Cucumber
1 tbsp Cumin
Salt to taste
Chilli powder to taste (optional)
½ tsp Black salt
Roast the cumin seeds on a griddle till they turn light brown.
Dry grind finely. The black salt. which is usually sold in
crystal form should also be ground to a powder. Nowwhisk
the curd and keep. Peel and grate the cucumber and mix in
the curd. Add the cumin. black salt. Ordinary salt and chilli
powder. Blend well and serve cold in a bowl along with
curries and rice.
FALON KA RAITA
INGREDIENTS
500 gms Curd
100 gms Snakegourd
1 Apple
3 Pineapple rings
Salt to taste
Tie the curd in a muslin cloth and hang for 1hour to allow the
water to drip off. Then sieve and keep aside. Peel the gourd.
remove the pith and seeds and cut into small cubes. Boil in
half cup water till tender but not too soft.
Drain and keep aside. Peel and cube the apple. Also cube the
pineapple. Now mix all the 3 ingredients in curd with a little
salt. Blend and serve in a bowl.
USE OF HERBS & SPICES IN AWADHI KITCHEN
Herbs and spice
Herbs are leaves of small shrubs and can be used dried
or fresh to impart flavors and zest to any dish. Examples
of commonly used herbs are rosemary, parsley, thyme,
basil, sage, dill, oregano and celery leaves. Spices are
derived from the fruit, seed, root and bark of tropical
plants and trees. Whole spices can be added at the start
of the cooking so that the flavor is imparted into the
dish. Seed herbs can be lightly toasted to bring out their
best flavor.
Herbs and spices are sometimes tied in a muslin bag and
placed in the saucepan during the cooking process. The
advantage is that the whole spices won't come in the
way while chewing and swallowing. Herb spice blend
powders can be blended at home. A pinch in your dishes
- and you will have everyone asking for more helpings! A
fragrant herb spice blend of cinnamon, anise, fennel,
pepper and cloves can be powdered and stored.
Ginger - inhibits nausea and vomiting caused by travel
sickness and morning sickness. Ginger speeds the body
metabolic rate. This spice combines well in curries and
soups. Its antiseptic properties have been known to cure
colds, sore throats and other ailments. You can use
fresh, dried or powdered ginger.
Cinnamon - Used often as an antidote for stomach
upsets and diarrhea. This spice is also known to be a
metabolic booster. A pinch of cinnamon can perk up your
hot cocoa and breathe life into your steamed puddings,
custard and pears.
Nutmeg - The flavor of this spice is strong and is used in
small amounts. Use it in spinach and white sauce.
Nutmeg finds pride of place in Christmas delicacies such
as eggnog and cakes.
Mace - This spice is the outer shell of the nutmeg fruit
and has a milder flavor. Powdered mace is used in
cakes, doughnuts and soups.
Garlic - The distinctive taste of garlic goes well with
other herbs and seasonings. Garlic is known to decrease
blood pressure and cholesterol levels. Regular
consumption of garlic aids digestion and prevents
flatulence.
Anise - This spice has its origin in the Mediterranean
region and is hailed as a digestive aid. It adds flavor to
cakes, breads, cookies and liquors.
Cayenne pepper - This important ingredient in many
Mexican dishes has fat burning abilities and can boost
metabolism. It is obtained from fruited varieties of
capsicum. Very small amounts are used in salad
dressings.
Mustard - This spice is a stimulant and is effective
against respiratory complaints.
Allspice - Though allspice suggests a mixture of spices,
it is derived from the Jamaican bayberry. It is used whole
in vegetable and meat dishes. It is ground and added to
cookies, puddings and gravies.
Turmeric - Extracted from the root of the Curcuma long
plant, turmeric is an essential ingredient of curries and
other Asian dishes. It is a powerful antioxidant and helps
protect against cancer.
Sesame seeds - The crunchy nutty flavor of sesame
seeds adds texture to salads and sautéed vegetable
dishes. These seeds are used in breadsticks, crackers
and rolls. The oil derived from the sesame seeds is rich
in polyunsaturated fatty acids and is a good choice for
salad dressings and cooking.
Mint - A decoction of this herb is known to give relief
from headache, nausea, indigestion and cold.
Peppermint is used to flavor tea, salads, stews and
sweets.
Coriander - This spice with a mild and distinctive taste
is another essential ingredient of most Indian curries.
Cloves - Popularly known as the 'flower spice', cloves
have been used as anesthetics for dental ailments for
centuries. The rich flavor of cloves is used in cakes and
pies. Using too much can result in a bitter flavor.
Saffron - The rich and distinct flavor of saffron comes
from the dried flower bloom. It is used in rice dishes and
cakes. Very little is needed to flavor and color your
dishes.
Caraway - These spice seeds have a spicy aroma that
lends flavor to soups, breads and baked fruit.
Cardamom - The unique flavor of cardamom is delicate
and sweet but powerful. From coffee to deserts, curries
to meat loaves, cardamom finds it way into many
recipes.
Pepper - Peppercorns are found in black and white
color. They are used in meat and vegetable dishes.
Fennel - This spice is used widely in Indian and Egyptian
cooking. Its mild flavor is used in Italian sausages too.
Cumin - The strong spicy taste of cumin seeds can be
used whole or ground to a fine powder. Use it in soups
and meats and pickles.
Herbs
Fresh herbs can be preserved by cutting a bit of their
stems and refrigerating them after submerging the
stems in a jar of water. Snip fresh herbs just at the time
of adding them to your dishes. Fresh herbs can
substitute dried herbs in any recipe, but remember to
double the quantity prescribed. Fresh herbs are usually
added at the end of cooking lest they lose their flavor
and color. Fresh herbs must possess good color and no
brown spots.
Dried herbs must be stored in airtight containers away
from sunlight and heat. Dampness causes loss of quality.
Never store herbs and spices near the stove as the heat
will shorted their life. Whole spices and herbs keep
longer than ground spices. Leaf herbs keep longer than
grounded ones. Besides grinding the spices as needed
assures greater freshness.
Never season more than a dish in a meal with the same
herb. Do not use too many strong-flavored herbs in the
same dish. A herb is used to flavor a dish not overpower
it. Certain herbs have a special affinity for certain foods.
Combine a strong herb like rosemary, basil or sage with
milder ones like chives, parsley or chives. Indian recipes
sometimes call for nearly a dozen spices in a single
curry. But as a rule, other regional recipes do not use
more than 3 herbs or spices in a dish.
Basil - The strong flavor of basil leaves goes well with
tomato-based sauces and garlic. Basil is said to
stimulate the appetite and relieve kidney and diarrhea
problems.
Thyme - This herb is used for everyday cooking and
goes well with heavy dishes like clam chowder, stews,
roast chicken and pork. Thyme is known to have
disinfectant properties and is used as a mouthwash. It
must be used in small quantities on account of its sharp
flavor. Lemon thyme has a milder flavor and has a
lemony tang.
Oregano - Oregano lends pizzas their characteristic
flavor. This herb has a pungent odor and flavor.
Bay leaves - This herb is a common ingredient in soups,
meat and vegetable dishes and stews. Other than its
strong aroma and spicy flavor, bay leaves are a good
remedy for earaches.
Cilantro - This herb is the young coriander plant and
finds its way into most Asian, Mexican and Middle
Eastern dishes.
Rosemary - This herb has a reputation as a memory
booster and is a symbol of friendship and fidelity.
Medicinal properties of rosemary include increased blood
flow and expansion of tissues.
CONCLUSION
One of the old & richest cuisine of India has now become
limited in small region.
They has been great attempt at bringing back the glory of
the past.
There are no famous chefs except chef qureshi who really
done the great work for the Cuisine of Awadh.
SUGGESTIONS
We have to introduce the Cuisine of Nawabs to different
kind of people and region in more effective way for example
Dumpukht is doing for all over the country.
As well as in this age of experimentation fusion of cuisines is
attracts lots of people for example last year Hotel Niko
Metropolitan fused Awadhi the Japinese cuisine and people
really appreciated the concept.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
INTERNET
www.google.com
www.ask.com
NEWSPAPER
Hindustan Times
The Times of India
MAGAZINE
First City
FHRAI
Hotelier
HOTEL
Bristol , Gurgaon, New Delhi
QUESTIONNAIRE
Name:____________________
Age:______________________
Address:__________________
_________________________
Q.1 How often do you dine out ?
Weekly
Fortnightly
Monthly
Seldom go out
Q.2 When you dine out which cuisines do you prefer
the most ?
Chinese
South Indian
Awadhi
Mughlai
Q.3 How did you come to know about
it ?
Friends
Television
Newspaper
Any other Source
Q.4 Which Awadhi delicacy do you prefer the most ?
Shorba
Korma
Biryani
Kebabs
Any Other
Q.5 Which of the Awadhi cuisine characterictics do
you enjoy the most ?
Spices and Flavour
Richness of Cuisine
Cooking Methods
All the above
Q.6 What shortcomings do you feel that Awadhi
cuisine has ?
Too rich
Too Oily
Lenghty Cooking Methods
Unavailibility of authentic Awadhi Cuisine at your place
Any Other
Q.7 How you think that any changes in the Awadhi
Cuisine will help in the betterment of the same ?
Yes
No
Q.8 How do you rate the Service Standards of Awadhi
Cuisine ?
Excellent
Good
Fine
Bad
Q.9 How often do you cook Awadhi cuisine at your
house ?
Daily
Weekly
Fortnightly
Do not cook