I always wanted a remote controlled pan and tilt head. Maybe it was for my videocamera, a rubber band shooter or a water gun aimer. It doesn't really matter whatyou put on the top deck (as long as it's not too heavy), with this little projectyou'll be able to aim it. You don't really need any special tools and it shouldn'tcost more than $65 (Canadian).

Step 1: Stuff you need

Related

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F2V/E7SK/F3L1GTBF/F2VE7SKF3L1GTBF.LARGE.jpg)

About This Instructable

License:57,358 views

94 favorites

(/member/Tiller/)

Tiller (/member/Tiller/) Follow 13

(/id/Care­and­Feeding­of­Fog­Machines)

(/id/Camera­mount­from­a­mic­clip)

More by Tiller

Pan (/tag/type­id/category­technology/keyword­

pan/)

Tilt (/tag/type­id/category­technology/keyword­tilt/)

Servo (/tag/type­id/category­technology/keyword­

servo/)

Remote (/tag/type­id/category­technology/keyword­

remote/)

Control (/tag/type­id/category­technology/keyword­

control/)

Tags:

Controlling Pan and tiltmechanism via Infra red(IR) TV Remote.(/id/Controlling­Pan­and­tilt­mechanism­via­Infra­Remote controlledwebcam using Arduino,SensorMonkey, jQueryand Justin.tv (/id/Remote­controlled­webcam­using­6ft Tall, Remote Control,Tilt­Rotor, Flying GhostScars Children for Life(/id/6ft­Tall­Remote­Control­Tilt­Rotor­Flying­Make a rc controlled tiltcontrol GoPro mount ofyour Quadcopter(/id/Make­a­rc­controlled­

Remote Controlled Pan and Tilt Head by Tiller (/member/Tiller/)

Collection I Made it!

Download (/id/Remote­Controlled­Pan­and­Tilt­Head/?download=pdf) 7 Steps

Favorite Share

(/id/Remote­Controlled­Pan­and­Tilt­Head/)

(/)

let's make

share what you make >

(/editInstructable/)(/)

Explore (/tag/type­id/) Create (/about/submit.jsp) Contests (/contest/) Community (/community/)Login (/account/login) | Sign Up (/account/gopro?sourcea=header)

Here are the parts you need:4 x 1/4 Nylon washers1 x 8­32 x 1/4 Chicago screw set (it is a 2 part set that screws into itself see pic)(Poulin #222­269)

See More (/tag/type­id/?q=)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRL/F5RO/F3KRXJ64/FRLF5ROF3KRXJ64.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FVJ/PXQ5/F3KRXJ4R/FVJPXQ5F3KRXJ4R.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F2O/CL0D/F3KRXJ4V/F2OCL0DF3KRXJ4V.LARGE.jpg)

Wireless Pan And Tilt(/id/Wireless­Pan­And­Tilt/)by joshmt2012(/member/joshmt2012/)

1 x 3" Swivel or lazy susan flat ball bearing. (In the cabinet hardware aisle atHome Depot)1 x 28ga 8" x 10" Sheet metal block end (used for blocking cold air returns)1 x Hitec HS­322HD servo motor (general purpose type), you can use otherservo motors, but be careful; some, (like Futaba), go in the opposite direction(Pan motor)1 x Hitec HS­755MG servo motor (heavy duty 1/4 scale with metal gears andball bearings) (Tilt Motor)1 x Hammond 1411N enclosure or deep octagonal electrical box with cover ordeep square electrical box with cover 12 x 4­40 x 1/4" machine screws8 x 4­40 x 3/4" machine screws2 x 4­40 x 1/2" machine screws24 x 4­40 nuts1 x 4­40 washer1 x 1/2" Rubber grommet1 x 1/4­20 x 1/2" machine screw (optional camera mount)1 x 1/4­20 nut (optional camera mount)LocktiteA servo controller of some type. There are many kits available (google"electronic kits" or try www.bpesolutions.com). A DMX controller is available athttp://home.att.net/~northlightsystems/. (http://home.att.net/~northlightsystems/.)An RF style controller is available at most hobby shops (like one for a car orairplane ­ needs 2 servo outputs), there are a few on this site and I will post minewhen it is working and not jittery. It may be advantageous to have the controllerbefore you start the project so that you can test your movements as you go.

Tools:Aviation Snips or Tin snipsSquareRulerDrill press (or a drill and a really steady hand)Drill bits ­ 13/64", 1/2", 27/64", 7/64", 3/32"4­40 metal Tap ­ Optional (see text near end of step 6)Optional but a great way to make really round holes is with a step bit and a 1/4"bitA bench vice or a sheet metal bender (called a metal brake)HammerStaedtler Lumocolor fine point marker (fantastic marker with a slim body) or Finepoint Sharpie markerSingle hole punch (three hole will work too)

Step 2: Prep the Servos and Dry Fit

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FAY/Y705/F3KRXJ60/FAYY705F3KRXJ60.LARGE.jpg)

In this step we will mount some screws to the servos to make it easier to figureout where to drill the mounting holes in the brackets and enclosure.

Mount the rubber shock absorbers that come with the servo into the 4 mountingholes in the servo.

Use 4 x 4­40 x 3/4" machine screws and 8 x 4­40 nuts for this step. Put a nutonto each screw and thread it as far as you can. Mount the screws in the shockabsorbers so that the threaded end is sticking out on the same side as the servoshaft. Thread another nut onto the screw to hold it in the shock absorber.

Repeat with the other servo.

Now fit the large servo to the longer bracket. The 1/2" hole should fit around theshaft collar and the metal should be flush with the servo body. You will probablyhave to adjust the nuts on the 4­40 screws so that the metal will sit flush, just besure that the screws are still in contact with the metal of the bracket.

Position the servo so that the body points towards the center of the bracket andso that the short side of the servo body is parallel with the bend line nearest to it.

Mark the mounting holes by tracing around as much of each of the 4­40 screws

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F5H/PU4R/F3KRXJ63/F5HPU4RF3KRXJ63.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FLV/S9PO/F3KRXJ5X/FLVS9POF3KRXJ5X.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FX4/COPN/F3KRXJ5Y/FX4COPNF3KRXJ5Y.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FR0/TGTQ/F3KRXJ5I/FR0TGTQF3KRXJ5I.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FMO/UDAG/F3KRXJ5P/FMOUDAGF3KRXJ5P.LARGE.jpg)

as you can.

Remove the servo.

Drill 7/64" holes at the center of the locations you marked. You will have toguess a little bit at where that center is, but as long as you are very closeeverything will be fine.

Dry fit again. Place the servo in the 1/2" hole and see if the screws will gothrough the holes you just drilled. If not you can "adjust" the holes as needed (asin redrill them).

Step 3: Bend the metal

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F2S/47NT/F3KRXJ5O/F2S47NTF3KRXJ5O.LARGE.jpg)

Now you can bend the metal. If you have a metal brake, now's the time toimpress everyone, if not you can use the following method. Clamp the sheetmetal in a bench vice with the bend line along the top of the vice jaws. Be sure itis as straight as possible and the vice is firmly clamped. Now holding the top ofthe bracket, gently bend it towards you as you tap along the backside of themetal with a hammer. Start tapping at one end and move across to the other end.You are not trying to bend the metal sharply but rather gently so that you onlymove a few degrees in each pass. When the metal is finally flush against the topof the vice you are done and you should have a nice 90­degree bend.

Flip the metal 180 degrees and repeat. You are making a U shaped bracket soposition it in the vice accordingly.

Repeat the above bending for the short bracket.

At this point you can mount a top plate onto the short bracket. I chose to mount apiece of wood because I can then easily attach almost anything with screws tothe pan and tilt head. If you are going to mount a camera, you can drill a holethrough the bracket and mount a ¼­20 x ½" machine screw to the bracket. Besure to secure it with a ¼­20 nut as your camera only wants about 3/16" of thethreads.

Step 4: The Swivel

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FDE/6F3A/F3KRXJ51/FDE6F3AF3KRXJ51.LARGE.jpg)

Mount the swivel to the underside of the long bracket so that the uprights of theU face away from the swivel.

Place the swivel in the center of the bottom of the long bracket and mark itsmounting holes on to the long bracket.

Remove the swivel.

Using your ruler and a marker, draw a line from one corner screw hole (that youjust marked) to the opposite corner screw hole passing through the center of thebracket. Now do the same for the remaining 2 corner screw holes. You shouldnow have the 4 corners connected with a big x. This will give you your exactcenter point of the swivel. (Very important as this will be where the small servoattaches.) Alternately if the holes are in really weird places, trace the wholeswivel base plate and then use these corners to find center.

Drill a 9/32" hole at the center point you just created.

Drill a 7/64" hole at each of the 4 corner screw holes you marked.

Place the swivel on the top of the Hammond enclosure (or on the cover plate ofthe electrical enclosure). Be sure it is not the same face of the swivel that youused to mark the mounting holes on the bracket. If using the Hammondenclosure, place the swivel closer to one of the short sides and centered on thatside.

Mark the 4 corner mounting holes on the enclosure (or cover plate).

Remove the swivel.

Same as above. Connect the opposite holes to make the big x and find center.Alternately if the holes are in really weird places, trace the whole swivel baseplate and then use these corners to find center.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FTM/CCF7/F3KRXJ62/FTMCCF7F3KRXJ62.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FDE/6F3A/F3KRXJ51/FDE6F3AF3KRXJ51.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FEL/ZTQ5/F3KRXJ4L/FELZTQ5F3KRXJ4L.LARGE.jpg)

Drill a ½" hole at this center point.

Drill a 7/64" hole at each of the 4 corner screw holes you marked

Step 5: Center the servo

Determine the center of the servo. There are a few ways to do this.

The best way is to connect the servo to the controller that you plan to use, powerit up and set your control to its center position. Then remove power to the servo,thus leaving it set at the control's center position.

Mount one of the servo horns (plastic parts that come with the servo) to theservo shaft so it will be easy to mark where center is. I like the circle one for thisstep.

Now make a mark on the horn perpendicular to the short side of the servo. Youwant the mark to be close to the short side.

The drawback is that the servo is "calibrated" to this controller and may not workwith another controller.

The following method will find the true center of the servo's travel. Fortunatelymost controllers allow you to adjust where they think the center point is, so thismethod should work for almost all controllers.

Servos only rotate 180 degrees, so if you mount one of the servo horns (plasticparts that come with the servo) to the servo shaft it will be easy to see wherecenter is. I like the circle one for this step.

Rotate the shaft by hand as far to one side as it will go. Mark a line on the hornperpendicular to the long side of the servo.

Now rotate it to the other extreme. It should have travelled 180 degrees.

Rotate the servo shaft back 90 degrees and voila you have the servo centered.

Note where the mark is and carefully remove the servo horn from the servo. Youdo not want to move the shaft at this point. If you do, simply repeat the abovesteps to find center again.

Step 6: Mount the pan servo

Put the side of the servo horn that does not connect to the motor into the hole inthe bottom of the long bracket so that it is on the bottom of the bracket (sameside as the swivel would mount).

Line up the mark you made on the servo horn with one of the open sides of thebracket. The mark should be centered to the open side of the bracket.

Drill two 7/64" holes through the horn and the bracket. I usually do this throughsome of the existing holes in the servo horn. It shouldn't really matter whichones, except try and do them 180 degrees apart.

Install a 4­40 x ½" machine screw in each hole in the bracket and secure with a4­40 nut. Now push the machine screws through the bracket and secure with two4­40 nuts. The servo horn should still be centered in the hole in the bracket butnot directly against the bracket.

Attach the swivel to the bottom of the long bracket (the servo horn should be inthe middle). Use 4­40 x 1/4" machine screws and nuts (4 of each).

Place the completed base on the top of the Hammond box (or enclosure cover)and line up the mounting holes. The servo horn should also be centered in thehole in the enclosure.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FC8/78K9/F3L1GTBN/FC878K9F3L1GTBN.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F5H/PU4R/F3KRXJ63/F5HPU4RF3KRXJ63.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F04/X7NQ/F3KRXJ6C/F04X7NQF3KRXJ6C.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FKE/I0I1/F3KRXJ4I/FKEI0I1F3KRXJ4I.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FPC/KCEB/F3KRXJ5B/FPCKCEBF3KRXJ5B.LARGE.jpg)

Dry fit the pan servo. The collar around the servo shaft should fit snugly in thehole in the enclosure and the shaft should be inside the horn.

Now check that your swivel mounting holes still line up. If not make thenecessary adjustments (redrill if needed).

Remove the servo. Try to keep it centered.

Temporarily attach the swivel to the Hammond enclosure or cover plate with four4­40 x ¼" machine screw and 4 nuts.

Line up one of the open ends of the bracket with the short side of the Hammondenclosure. This will be the front of the unit.

Reinstall the servo. It should line up so that the short side of the servo (with thewires coming out) is parallel with the front of the unit.

Using the same method as we did with the large servo (step 4), mark themounting holes for this servo.

Remove the servo.

Drill out these 4 holes with a 7/64" bit, unless (like mine) 2 of the holes will gothrough the swivel. In this case, drill out the 2 holes nearest to the center of theswivel with a 7/64" bit and drill out the other 2 holes and the swivel with a 3/32"bit. Tap these 2 holes with a 4­40 Tap. This can be somewhat optional. You coulddrill out all 4 holes with the 7/64" bit and just use the far 2 holes (with screwsused as pins) to keep the motor from torquing

Disconnect the swivel from the Hammond enclosure (or cover plate).

Mount two 4­40 x ¾" screws through the top (same side as swivel mounts on)of the enclosure (or cover plate) and secure them on the bottom with a nut oneach screw.

Reattach the swivel with the four 4­40 x ¼" screws and four nuts.

Remove the 2 machine screws closest to the servo shaft from the pan servo.

Place another nut on each of the machine screws that are mounted on theenclosure (or cover plate). Remount the servo on these 2 screws. The servoshould line up with the horn as described above.

Put a third nut on each of the screws and tighten. These will hold the servo to theenclosure (or cover plate). Tighten the second nut down to the servo.

Screw the other two servo screws into the tapped holes (or just into the holes).

Make sure you attach the servo horn hold down screw. You can leave itsomewhat loose so that if you didn't get the servo perfectly centered, it canmove a little.

Step 7: Mount the Tilt servo

First, Drill a 7/16" hole in the top of the enclosure (side the swivel is mounted to)as close to the short side of the enclosure as possible. Insert the ½" grommet.This hole is for the tilt servo wire to go through. Therefore, you do not want theswivel or brackets to be able to damage the wires by clipping the hole.

Mount the large tilt servo using four 4­40 x ¾" screws and 8 nuts. Push themachine screws through the side of the bottom bracket towards the center of thebracket. Secure each one with a 4­40 nut. Push the servo over the screws.Thread another nut on each screw to hold the servo to the bracket.

Drill a 7/64" hole through the second hole from center of the single arm servohorn.

Center the servo but this time use the single arm servo horn. If you don'tremember how to center a servo, see step 5.

Remove the horn. Careful not to move the shaft.

Mount the top bracket with the big hole over the servo shaft.

Secure the other ends of the brackets with a Chicago screw set and nylonwashers. Take the female part of the Chicago screw set and place a washer onit. Then slide it through the small hole in the side of the top bracket. Now slide

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F6W/RBJX/F3KRXJ5F/F6WRBJXF3KRXJ5F.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJZ/V8M1/F3L1GTBM/FJZV8M1F3L1GTBM.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FP8/KZ3B/F3L1GTBQ/FP8KZ3BF3L1GTBQ.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FT2/CBPU/F3L1GTBG/FT2CBPUF3L1GTBG.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FO6/6KQ7/F3L1GTBL/FO66KQ7F3L1GTBL.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FOW/0H8E/F3KRXJ6B/FOW0H8EF3KRXJ6B.LARGE.jpg)

Show All 9 Items

We have a be nice comment policy. Please be positive and constructive.

I Made it! Add Images Make Comment

(/member/Maalk/)

3 years ago Reply (CRA549JGRTHXOB2)

(/member/CheatGuy28/)

3 years ago Reply (CJFMIVNGN4CZWAU)

(/member/Tiller/)

3 years ago Reply (CY9YIDPGN4CZFBB)

two more nylon washers over the Chicago screw. Now insert it into the smallhole in the side of the bottom bracket. Slide one more nylon washer over theChicago screw and thread the male part into the female part. Now you have apivot point.

Mount the servo horn so that it points down (towards the Hammond enclosure).

Make the top platform parallel with the Hammond enclosure (or cover plate)

Mark the hole that you drilled in the servo horn on to the top bracket.

Disassemble the two brackets.

Drill a 7/64" hole at the spot you just marked on the side of the top bracket.

Thread a 4­40 x ¼" screw through the hole in the top bracket that you justmade. Thread it from the inside of the bracket to the outside. Place a 4­40washer over the screw. Now put the servo horn over the screw and thread a 4­40nut on to the screw to hold it in place. The servo horn should also be centered inthe 27/64" hole you drilled in the side of the top bracket with the side thatconnects to the servo facing the inside of the bracket.

Reassemble the two brackets. See above. Make sure that after you connect theservo horn to the servo that you put the retaining screw in.

Rotate the top bracket by hand. The two brackets should be close to touching(preferably without actually touching).

Congratulations it's done! Now connect it to the controller of your choice andaway you go. I will post an instructable of how to build a controller of your own,just as soon as I get it working the way I want without a microcontroller!!

Maalk (/member/Maalk/)

Hey im kinda a potato cannon enthusiast and i was thinking how awesome thiswould be to hook a cannon up to one of these. after looking at the videoattached, i saw that the rotation and tilt are far too fast for what is required. Anysuggestions on changes to your design that would slow down the movementand perhaps provide more torque?

thanks for your time and consideration

CheatGuy28 (/member/CheatGuy28/)

Can you somehow connect this to a camera jib/crane. And if you can how?Thanks. BTW love the design!!!

Tiller (/member/Tiller/) (author) CheatGuy28

I'm sure you could. The gray box

(/member/CheatGuy28/)

3 years ago Reply (COZ2VMFGN4CZYPW)

(/member/Tiller/)

3 years ago Reply (CH1KE6NGMX1RT06)

(/member/yannmoritz/)

4 years ago Reply (C0GYNTCG68HEAZW)

(/member/Tiller/)

4 years ago Reply (CCAY2UWG68H9WGG)

(/member/yannmoritz/)

4 years ago Reply (CJ1NGI9G68GYCE1)

(/member/Tiller/)

4 years ago Reply (CE1X2GQG6MI0U93)

that serves as the base wouldallow for many mounting options.I guess it depends on the designof your jib/crane. What are youthinking?

CheatGuy28 (/member/CheatGuy28/) Tiller

Im making a metl based jibwhich is also remote cotrolled. Ithought it would make a goodaditive.Plans for the jib immaking can be found here:

Tiller (/member/Tiller/) (author) CheatGuy28

Sadly your link was blocked. Ithink if you simply added aplatform (or maybe an L bracket)to the camera end of your jib youshould be able to mount thebottom of the gray box to it. Thiswould give your cameraexcellent left to right movementand from straight up to straightdown (Depending on yourcamera size.) Not quite what acommercial unit is capable of,but not teh same money either.Check out Blue PointEngineering, they have someplayback servo controllers (4chservo record/playabck) andcomputer controllers(SV203interface board) withsoftware(VSA) available if youwant to be able to do the sameshot over and over (Like thereally high end movie jibs can). If you get a chance , I'd love tosee the link, maybe email me attypatrick at hotmail.

yannmoritz (/member/yannmoritz/)

Hey, very nice work!I'm interested: how much weight is possible to put on this construction?

Tiller (/member/Tiller/) (author) yannmoritz

How much do you want to puton it. I can try. It holds amedium sized digital stillcamera without problem.

yannmoritz (/member/yannmoritz/) Tiller

i would try to put a 6kg light on it.would this work?

Tiller (/member/Tiller/) (author) yannmoritz

Sadly no. Not with these servosor metal type. You could getaway with a kilogram but notmuch more and you would haveto carefully balance the load. Youcan use this idea with industrial

(/member/yannmoritz/)

4 years ago Reply (CX6WTD3G6MPP499)

(/member/Tiller/)

4 years ago Reply (CYQ2L90G5FR09WF)

(/member/dompower/)

4 years ago Reply (CEK2VE8G51GRSVL)

(/member/Tiller/)

4 years ago Reply (CQRXAQDG5FR5LUE)

(/member/evilme/)

4 years ago Reply (CPF4CO8G2L3BYUI)

(/member/Tiller/)

4 years ago Reply (CHWRN9KG2HDY613)

type servos and heavier gaugemetal and you might havesuccess. Sorry.

yannmoritz (/member/yannmoritz/) Tiller

Anyway, thank you very much.Gave me lots of ideas!

Tiller (/member/Tiller/) (author)

Hey all who have been looking for a way to control the servos, take a look atthe Simple Servo Instructable by nmcclana. http://www.instructables.com/id/Simple­Servo­Tester/(http://www.instructables.com/id/Simple­Servo­Tester/)

That may give you a good start point. Also if you search for servo control ininstructables you will find a bunch of variations.

dompower (/member/dompower/)

Hi Guys!I am looking for metal fixure clamps to connect servo motors together toconstruct my own humanoid robo. Any suggestion from where I can get these fixtures?

thank you.Dominic AncelmSaudi Arabiadompower@gmail.com

Tiller (/member/Tiller/) (author) dompower

Hi Dompower

My favorite place to find robotparts is www.robotshop.ca(http://www.robotshop.ca),however if you googlelynxmotion you can probablyfind a distributor near you. Lynxmotion makes a variety ofbrackets that might suit yourneeds. Sorry it took so long torespond. I hope this info helps.

T

evilme (/member/evilme/)

Hi, from the hardware and items you have described, it sounds like you aresome sort of theatre lighting tech, convinently , so am i, with the dmx, is it likeusing a pc recordable desk , but trading the lights to motor? I was thinking ofusing midi to controll somthing simmilar.Regards, Jack

Tiller (/member/Tiller/) (author) evilme

HI Jack

Yup, I am a theatre tech,although my specialty is sound,I also do lighting. The DMX unitI am using is a Sidewinder fromInteractive Technologies. It ismuch like a lighting desk but it'soperates on a Palm Pilot. ASfar as the interface for the servos

(/member/Tiller/)

4 years ago Reply (CHL1YSGG2HE1NK0)

(/member/17hmr243/)

5 years ago Reply (CMFFUJ7FXXPKQW7)

(/member/Tiller/)

5 years ago Reply (CO407Y0FY1HHJ2N)

(/member/Tiller/)

5 years ago Reply (C1MD4G6FY1HHJ38)

go, I bought a DMX to Servoboard from Northlight DMXwhich can control up to 8servos. Basically from a DMXstandpoint, the console thinksthe motor is a dimmer. As faras MIDI goes, there's no reasonyou couldn't make somethingwork. There's lots of MIDI stuffout there, check outhttp://tomscarff.110mb.com/products_prices.htm(http://tomscarff.110mb.com/products_prices.htm) or google MIDI circuits.

Tiller (/member/Tiller/) (author)

There's a couple of great instructables describing how to make the electronicsfor a servo control. Search for Servo control. This one especially caught myeye because it doesn't use a microcontroller, just basic parts.http://www.instructables.com/id/Simple­Servo­Tester/

17hmr243 (/member/17hmr243/)

im liking it heaps. but u lost me at buy the servo and then what? how do i tune itin to remote from rc car? is there more i need to no how and where do i learnservo adapting ? all i whant in simple talk is what u made running. car rc tomove it.

Tiller (/member/Tiller/) (author) 17hmr243

Hi. To do the demo video I used apalm pilot running some softwarecalled figment and that wasconnected to a sidewinder DMXunit that outputs a control signalcalled DMX (Total cost of thatstuff was about $500. It was notbought for this project.) Then theDMX was converted to the signalneeded for the servo by aconverter board from Northlightsystems. I assume that you wouldhave no other need for DMX, so Idon't think that is the route foryou. It would be quite easy to usean RC controller to do what I did.You would need a battery pack(or adapter), a receiver (2channel minimum) and a remotecontrol. I am not an RC guy, sothis is only my thoughts, pleasecheck with someone who is anRC person. I would think that youwant an aircraft RC because theygenerally have 2 joysticks. Youmight want to build the hardwareand then take it to a hobby shop. Ibet they would love to let you tryout some controllers and seewhich one works for you. Goodluck. I hope that helps.

Tiller (/member/Tiller/) (author) Tiller

Sorry, I just had another thought.If you don't need it to be wireless,Northlight Systems or Blue pointengineering (google them)should be bale to supply you witha wired controller.

(/member/exerp/)

5 years ago Reply (CTYW75SFXETSJ04)

(/member/curve12/)

7 years ago Reply (CHUAAYYF3LMO08W)

(/member/Tiller/)

7 years ago Reply (CJY6BSNF3NHSEZD)

(/member/ThomasR142/)

5 years ago Reply (CMO1Z5JFT7PLMD5)

(/member/CRVerdusco/)

6 years ago Reply (CDGZE0WFJPYENWG)

(/member/jimwig/)

6 years ago Reply (CHS41GNFBVHEUHP)

(/member/mrgalleta/)

7 years ago Reply (CQRD2ZEF6B7WBJT)

exerp (/member/exerp/)

I like it.. Will be building myself one very soon

curve12 (/member/curve12/)

Very cool. Can't wait to see your controller when it's done. What did you use asa controller for the video?

Tiller (/member/Tiller/) (author) curve12

I used a DMX to servo card fromNorthlight Systems and aprogram called Figment whichruns on a palm pilot with thesidewinder adapter. Having saidall that, I only did that because Ihad access to the Sidewinder (a$400US adapter). There arecheaper DMX programsavailable on the net. All needsome kind of adapter to go fromUSB or serial to DMX, but thereare some cheaper unitsavailable. Martin Light Jockeymight be cheaper?

ThomasR142 (/member/ThomasR142/) Tiller

what about this?http://www.vellemanusa.com/us/enu/product/view/?id=522065(http://www.vellemanusa.com/us/enu/product/view/?id=522065) or maybe this? http://www.vellemanusa.com/us/enu/product/view/?id=522038(http://www.vellemanusa.com/us/enu/product/view/?id=522038) mind you I'm not shore what thedifference is between them?hope that helped... a bit

CRVerdusco (/member/CRVerdusco/)

Any one interested in having DMX controlled stepper motors or Servos shouldlook at this link. I found this awhile ago, the circuits are based off of a commonDMX transceiver and then from there have different output controllers.

http://www.hoelscher­hi.de/hendrik/english/stepper.htm (http://www.hoelscher­hi.de/hendrik/english/stepper.htm)

jimwig (/member/jimwig/)

first post ­ howdy all you pack rats and inventing/reverse engineering types tryto build/change moving head lights tiller's pan and tilt is very much part of themechanism. since i must do a little different effect i must use steppers. anyonegot any knowledge this area? thanks sir­­­ may i have another may i haveanother

mrgalleta (/member/mrgalleta/)

Very nice! I'll try to make one.

We have a be nice comment policy. Please be positive and constructive.

I Made it! Add Images Make Comment

About UsWho We Are (/about/)Advertise (/advertise/)Contact (/about/contact.jsp)Jobs (/community/Positions­available­at­Instructables/)Help (/id/how­to­write­a­great­instructable/)

Find UsFacebook (http://www.facebook.com/instructables)

Youtube (http://www.youtube.com/user/instructablestv)

Twitter (http://www.twitter.com/instructables)

Pinterest (http://www.pinterest.com/instructables)

Google+ (https://plus.google.com/+instructables)

Tumblr (http://instructables.tumblr.com)

ResourcesFor Teachers (/teachers/)Artists in Residence (http://www.autodesk.com/artist­in­residence/home)Gift Pro Account (/account/give?sourcea=footer)Forums (/community/)Answers (/tag/type­question/?sort=RECENT)Sitemap (/sitemap/)

Go Pro Today » (/account/gopro?sourcea=footer)

We're Hiring! » (/community/Positions­available­at­Instructables/)

MobileDownload our new apps for iOS,Android and Windows 8!

Android(https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?

id=com.adsk.instructables)

iOS(https://itunes.apple.com/app/instructables/id586765571)

Windows(http://apps.microsoft.com/windows/en­us/app/7afc8194­c771­441a­9590­

54250d6a8300)

Join our newsletter:

Terms of Service (http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/item?siteID=123112&id=21959721) |Privacy Statement (http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/item?siteID=123112&id=21292079) |Legal Notices & Trademarks (http://usa.autodesk.com/legal­notices­trademarks/) | Mobile Site (http://m.instructables.com)

(http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/pc/index?id=20781545&siteID=123112)

Join!

© 2014 Autodesk, Inc.

Englishenter email