Reloading 308

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Case Preparation & Loading ProcedureJust a little introduction of who am I and why this article. First, I am not a bench rest shooter; Ihave been shooting high power and smallbore silhouette for the past twenty years. My benchrest type shooting has been limited to sight-in shooting sessions only. My bench technique or

lack of results to date would classify myself as a solid three-quarter of the minute bench shooter.The bench rest groups that I have read about over the years and pictures of those small group justcontinue to amaze me. I have lots of respect for the bench rest shooter and know that it is muchharder than it looks. Bench rest shooting is truly special and requires its own special discipline.I have been a subscriber to Precision Shooting and Shooters News over the years and enjoyedthe articles on bench rest shooting by the various bench rest shooters. The magazines seem tohave changed over the years. Glossy covers and thicker magazines are nice but I like the oldquestion and answer approach where the questions and answers were directly related to thebench rest sport or related to rifle accuracy. It is good to hear that Shooters News is interestedin the old format. A question was posted on some basic aspect of the bench rest sport was askedand a few of the Pros were asked for an answer. It was probably very time consuming for theeditor to correct and compile the answers but they made for some interesting articles and madethe magazine. What interested me even more were the stories on why they did what they did.Some of the reasons and theories on what they saw and what they did may have been it conflictwith some of Newtons Laws but so what, that was what they observed and their reason why. Ienjoyed those articles and back a few years there were articles about shooting 30 BRs and 308sin bench rest competition. Those were the articles I liked best. Some of the things the bench restguys were doing for 30-caliber competition I incorporated into use for my silhouette shooting.So this article is about that. This is what I do for case preparation and reloading for mysilhouette shooting, based off my experience to date and the bench rest shooters articles.Granted most of the things are not necessary for the silhouette sport but then again a couple ofextra steps will not hurt anything either. But most of all, If it makes you feel better, do it,because it will make you shoot better.

Selecting and buying new cases

This case preparation story is about preparingcases for my two standard high powersilhouette rifles. My primary and back-uprifles are both Remington 700s in 308Winchester caliber. Back-up rifle gotpromoted to primary rifle two years ago afterreceiving a new 24-inch Hart barrel. Now bothrifles have new Hart barrels with 11 to 1 twistsand 0.340 necks. I wanted a 0.338 neck but

my choice from Hart using standard tooling was 0.340 and 0.335. I went with the 0.340 neck

size, this is more or less the standard for long range Palma guns and most commercial ammo willfit this chambering. It is still much tighter than the standard 0.346 neck.

So the new barrels deserve new brass. So, I ordered 1000 of IMI 308 Match Brass cases. I wasalso foolishly hoping that case necks would be thicker than say the Winchester brass and that thecase necks would require turning to fit. After all the IMI brass does weigh more than the mostother commercial brass. I was also getting good stories from the High Power National MatchShooters about the IMI brass. So the following article and information is how this crazy

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silhouette shooter prepared his new IMI Match brass for its first loading and how he reloads itafter each firing.

Original Case Preparation|Uniform the primer pocket | De-bur flash hole inside the case | Uniform the extractor grove |Full length case resizing |Trimming cases for overall length | Expand necks for neck turning |Turn necks | Weight and sort cases |Final case distribution | One reason to weigh cases |

Fired Case Reloading Procedure|Recording data sheet |Case resizing |Neck Sizing |Solvent Wash | Primer pocketcleaning | Case trimming |Case polishing | Priming | Adding the powder | Bullet seating |

Uniform the primer pockets

For this step I used a K&M Primer Pockettool. The K&M Primer Pocket Tool was thefirst one I found that could be used with anelectric screwdriver. I have been very satisfiedwith it and now have all three. One for largerifle primers, small rifle primers, and pistolprimers. I do this step for all the same reasonsthat all the bench rest shooters do. They justall do it and they all say it helps. I personallydo not believe that anyone has any good proofor data that clearly shows any benefit. But itis easy to do and once done the tool may then

be used to clean the primer pockets afterfiring. Clean primer pockets look much better

and just have to work better. An article in Precision Shooting Magazine (October 1999) aboutthe Secrets of the Houston Warehouse did not support all the great care that primers they arereceiving today.

Using the electric screwdriver for operation is a must for doing 1000 cases. I do not try to makethem all perfect with new brass, just cut the radius out of the bottom of the pocket and make thebottom of the pocket uniform. I use this tool for cleaning the primer pocket after each firing so ifI leave the primer pocket a little short the first time I get it during the second, third, or fourthprimer pocket cleaning. The first cutting is the hardest and I use a light leather glove to hold thecase while turning the cutter with the electric screwdriver. The glove helps the strain on the

fingers and lets you get a good grip on the case. When done you feel better about it, so it isworth doing.

Back to Case Preparation Index

De-bur flash hole inside the case

For this step I use the K&M Flash Hole Tool. I modified this tool so I could use it with myelectric screwdriver. All the directions warn you not to use it with any power tools. This tool is

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apparently design such that it is not to be usedwith power tools. Well if you are only goingto do 10 or 20 bench rest cases okay, but doinga 1000 cases you could easily develop verysore wrist (carpal tunnel syndrome) andfingers. In order to make it work with myelectric screw driver I needed some hex steelstock the same size that fits the electricscrewdriver. Found an old Allen Wrench that

was not hardened. I drilled and tapped a small piece of it and then, screwed the K&M PrimerPocket tool on to it. I also added the small spring and collar to hold the spring to the K&M Toolshaft. The collar is from the local hobby store and is normally used hold the wheels on a modelairplane. The K&M Primer Pocket Tool needs no adjusted for cutting deep. When using it withan electric screwdriver you must make sure that brass chips do not build up inside the cuttingpoint. I have a small pick and constantly using it. But picking the chips out is much easier thanturning the cutter by hand. I adjust the spring so the case puts a little tension on the spring afterthe point on the cutter has just entered the flash. The case stays on the center cone with a light

pressure from the spring. I am surprised that the tool does not come with a spring and collar.Again this de-burring process is another step that all the bench rest shooters do with little proofthat it actually does any good. The best benefit that I have seen after de-burring the flash holes isthe flash holes do not seem to have as much corn cob pieces and chucks of walnut shells stuck inthe flash holes. Again this de-burring step easy to do and when done you feel good about doingit, therefore it helps.


Uniform the extractor grove

Now here is a step the most bench rest guys

dont even do. Re-cut the extractor grove onthe cartridge base. I saw this in one of thearticles in Precision Shooting a few years backand give a copy to two friends, which both justhappen to be machinist types. Low and beholdI got two of these things. Never have toldthem that I have two. Both think I am usingthe one they made. Tool works great and thebiggest difference I have noticed after re-cutting all the extractor grove happens whileseating the primers. The shell holder on my

Lee primer-seating tool is very discriminatingtowards cartridges, which have an ever soslightly larger diameter or damaged extractor grove. Before re-cutting the extractor grove onother brass, I would notice every now and then a case that would not slide into the shell holdervery easily. It would hang up on something. But after re-cutting the extractor groves, they allslip into the Lee priming tool shell holder with the greatest of ease. Now when I priming some45ACP I get some cases that stick in the Lee Priming Tool on burred and damaged rims.

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The re-cutting of the extractor grove also kisses the web or rim. This makes all of the rims thesame. All of this should make things better when the bolt closes and the extractor slips into thegrove. I have noticed less or no brass shavings in the bolt face and extractor after re-cutting thecartridges extractor groves. Cant say that my (standing) groups are any smaller, but this stepreally makes me feel good so it must help me shoot better.

The case holder in the picture was made from a small piece of oak. A hole was drilled into theoak, which the case shoulder would get stuck if pushed. Actually I drilled the hole in the piece ofoak and with a little help from some epoxy, formed a hole that the case could be press into and itwould hold the case during the re-cutting process. After re-cutting, I put a in. steel rod into thecase and tap it off the oak holder.


Full length case resizing

Since this is all new brass and with very fewdents or dings. It does not make much sense to

resize it. On the other hand I want to make surethe case neck lengths, and neck diameters are allsame before trimming for overall length andturning the necks. So I full length re-sized all1000 cases using my standard Redding 308 FullBody Re-Sizing Die with the neck expanding ballfloating on an o-ring. Of all the o-ring and diestories, placing an o-ring between the primerextractor and neck expander stem and the diebody, is only place I feel that it makes any since.When you extract the case the stem is not heldrigid and may float or move to center itself in the

case neck. This is possible because the stem in the re-sizing die is not tighten down hard againstthe die body, but is loosely tighten against an o-ring between the stem and die body. This allowsthe stem to wiggle around on the threads and center itself while extracting the case from the die.I have also made a new nut for holding the stem. This new one also has a setscrew in it. Thisallows you to easily remove the stem for cleaning and replace it at the same setting.


Trimming cases for overall length

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For this operation I use the manual Lee casetrimming system and my electric screwdriver.I have retired the original Lee case holder. Itwas placed with a slightly modified Sinclaircaseholder. Both Lee and Sinclair caseholderwould fit onto the end of an electricscrewdriver. The driver normally comes withtwo raised portions in the center, which fit, intoeither a large or small primer pocket. The Leetrimmer is designed with a fixed overalllength-cutting guide. This guide or pin extendsthrough the primer flash hole and bottoms outon the base of the shell holder and controls thedepth of cut. I have been using this system for

over twenty years and it is great. No adjustments or set-up time required. Just screw the correcttrimmer guide on to the cutter and cut until the cutter stops cutting. The electric screwdriver isgreat for this operation. Just turn the case with the electric screwdriver while the wooden frame

holds the cutter. See picture of set-up. Wooden frame holds cutter and has rest for electricscrewdriver to keep it in line with the cutter. All 1000 cases had some material removed duringthis trimming operation. The amount was minor and the inside and outside de-burring was doneusing a standard RCBS de-burring tooling while the case were still in the shell holder on the endof the electric screwdriver.

I sent Mr. Fred Sinclair a picture of my solid walnut set-up and little note about my trimming set-up. Couple of months later here came a little box with a modified case driver (finished with aflat end) and best of all a little hand written note from Mr. Fred Sinclair which I treasure most ofall.


Expand necks for neck turning

The case neck diameter must match the mandrel diameter on theneck turning tooling. This can be easily accomplished by usingSinclairs neck turning mandrel and expander mandrel. Just oilthe inside of the case necks before using the expander body diewith the correct expander mandrel. Running the cases up anddown on the mandrel with a loading press is very easy work andmakes the neck turning operation run very smoothly. Then usethe correct turning mandrel on the neck turning tool. Theexpanding mandrel is just a little larger (about 0.001 more in

diameter) so the expanded neck will just slide onto the turningmandrel.


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Turn necks

Since the chamber neck on my re-barreledsilhouette rifles are 0.340 in., I want to be surethat all my cases fit correctly. Most factoryammo will fit into a 0.340 in neck chamber butthat is not guaranteed. So I decided to have theneck diameter on my finished rounds be no

more than 0.338 in. So using a 0.308 diameter bullet the correct neck wall thickness would be0.015 in. To set the cutter on the neck wall cutter I used a 0.015 feeler gauge. Place the feelergauge between the mandrel and the cutter and tighten the setscrew that holds the cutter in place.Remember this is for silhouette shooting so only one cut is going to be done. The IMI Matchbrass really surprised me, very little material was removed and I think all cases would have fitthe 0.340 chamber without turning the necks. The amount of material removed from most casesseemed like I was just removing the tarnish from the annealing process. The majority of thecases cleaned up by cutting completely around the entire neck. Very few of the cases seem tocut heavier on one side or not cut completely all the way around on the neck. These cases, whichwere less than one hundred, were separated from the others.

My neck turner is a home made model and uses Sinclairs mandrels. The case holder was madefor 308 Winchester cartridges. The case holder fits into a rubber heater hose that connects to a0.5-in. rod. The rod is fed through two bearing blocks which is on one of my work bench legs.The rod is turned by hand using a crank that is on a flywheel off an old grape crusher. Systemworks great for neck turning. Easy to crank and still have a feel for how the cutter is working.Until the electric screwdriver came along, I had all of my various tools used on this simplecranking system.

Upgraded to a K&M Neck Turner. Great tool and easy to make very small adjustments to thecutting depth. I use the K&M case holder that came with the neck turner for triming cases. Itgrips a little better than the Sinclair case holder and both are easilier to use than the Lee caseholder.

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Also moved the old grape grape crusher flywheel and bearings from one of the work bench legsto a frame that mounts on the work bench. Much easilier to use.

This arrangement almost making tuning neck fun. The secret to neck turning is how easy it is toturn the case. By hand is best for the feel of the cutting process. The flywheel is 15 in.diameter.


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Weigh and sort cases

At last, hear is the last operation in the casepreparation process and the one that I havebeen waiting for, weighing and sorting thecases. Most folks think that doing this is a

total waste of time and has absolutely no affecton performance. They may be right, butweighing and sorting your cases is one way ofknowing how uniform your brass is. Just howgood or bad is this IMI Match brass in terms ofcase weight consistency. This operation iseasy to do with an electronic scale or balance.

I use some inch square wooden sticks keep the cases separated. Each stick is marked on oneend the weigh class for that stick. The stick is divided up into ten portions and the ten portionsare marked on the stick from 0 to 9. These numbers indicate 0.1-grain increments along thestick. See picture, the sticks are marked on one end for each whole grain weight. Than the stickis marked along the length for each 0.1 grain increment. Simply weigh each case and place onthe correct pile. So after weighing and separating all but the few cases which failed the neckturning operation, it was time to box the brass. I placed 800 of pieces of brass in MTM 100plastic cartridge cases. A hundred or more highs and lows were left. Then I weighed and sortedthe cases that failed the neck turning operation and them added to the highs and lows. Now thesetwo hundred pieces of brass, (high case weight, low case weight, and cut on one-side necks)were put into two MTM 100 plastic cartridge cases.


Final Case Distribution

The distribution of the 1000 IMI Match 308 Brass is as follows:Brown Box Lows 177.0 to 179.3 grains plus the light half of the neck turning rejected cases.Green Box #117 at 179.4 grains19 at 179.5 grains26 at 179.6 grains29 at 179.7 grains9 at 179.8 grains

Green Box #235 at 179.8 grains33 at 179.9 grains

32 at 180.0 grainsGreen Box #330 at 180.0 grains70 at 180.1 grains

Green Box #415 at 180.1 grains73 at 180.2 grains12 at 180.3 grains

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Green Box #538 at 180.3 grains62 at 180.4 grains

Green Box #69 at 180.4 grains

46 at 180.5 grains45 at 180.6 grains

Green Box #75 at 180.6 grains57 at 180.7 grains23 at 180.8 grains15 at 180.9 grains

Green Box #819 at 180.9 grains29 at 181.0 grains16 at 181.1 grains

18 at 181.2 grains18 at 181.3 grains

Brown Box Highs 181.3 to 184.8 grains plus the heavyhalf of the neck turning rejected cases.

Now I just keep the cases in their own groups of onehundred each. Each box of one hundred have all the casesweighting within 0.2 to 0.5 grains. I was very pleased withthe overall weight distribution of the IMI Match brass. TheIMI brass case capacity is a little less than the Winchester

brass, but with the 11 to 1 twist rate and 0.340 neck chamber in the new barrels I only need 41.0grains of IMR-4064 to push my moly coated 175 grain MatchKings 2550 fps. The 41.0 grainscompletely fills the case.

So that is how this silhouette shooter prepared some new brass after reading a bunch bench restshooting articles.

I mark the MTM 100 boxes with the weigh group. This is not for my benefit but for the benefitof all others at the match. The fact that I have weighed and sorted my cases, makes me feel goodand where by allowing me to shoot better. This may also work against my competition. If theydid not weigh and sort their brass and see mine, then they may not feel as good wherebyaffecting their shooting in some mysterious way.


Here is one good reason to weigh cases.

In the picture either above or below is a 221 Fireball case. I just purchased 500 new Remingtoncases and got 501 cases. After re-cutting the primer pockets, deburring the flash holes, andturning the necks; I weighed the cases. Pleased with the weight distribution. Over 400 casesseem to turn evenly during the neck turning and ding free. I ended up with 400 cases between79.9 and 81.0 grains. Average weight was 80.3305 grains and Standard Deviation 0.3378grains. However, one case weighed more than four grains heavier than the rest of the cases.

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Thirteen sigmas over the average, one could easily say that this one is old of the process controlwindow. I kept this odd ball heavy case separate. Looking into the case you could seesomething odd. Case looked like it had extra thick webbing in the bottom of the case. I decidedthat this case would be my bullet seating depth case. Therefore, I proceeded to drill out flashhole out to fit the tap for a No. 12 x 20 screw. The extra web or thickness in the base looked likeit would be part of the threads. During the drilling and tapping procedure things got messy and Iended up pulling that brass shaving out of the case. Originally, the brass shaving was notapparent, it appeared to be so tightly drawn up on inside walls at the bottom of the case itappeared to be part of the case. It took a little doing to get it out. After removing, this shavingfrom the case the case looked normal or any of the other cases on the inside.

Without weighing the cases, I would have never found this shaving. In fact, several peoplelooked inside this case at the range before I decided to use this case, has my bullet seating case.The brass shaving would have stayed in the case was fired, but surely would change thepressures a little.

The flash hole in the case is now tapped for 12 x 20. The case is now ready for use. The bulletseating depth maybe easily measured now using this special case. Just seat the any bullet intothis case using a your seating die. Then measure the seating depth of the bullet. Adjust yourseating die as needed. Then just push the bullet back out of the case a little and reseat it again.

This maybe repeated many times. If the bullet gets a little loose, just resize the case. The frugalcartridge length measuring device.

Thought the picture of the brass shaving would be of interest.


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Fired Case Reloading Procedure

Recording data sheet

The first step in my reloading procedure is printout anew data sheet. I have made data sheets for each batchof cartridges that I reload. The data sheet helps meremember all the various steps and keep them the sameand in the proper order. The data sheet includes somehistory, as to the number of times each batch ofcartridges has been reloaded.

Excel Reloading Data Sheet I use for my 308 SilhouetteAmmo - Green_3.xlsExcel Reloading Data Sheet I use for my 600 YardAmmo - Win_Test.xls

Word Document I use as page two on above ReloadingSheets - PageTwo.doc

Back to Fired Case Reloading Procedure Index

Case resizing

First step in my reloading operation is to measure five or ten firedcartridges for cartridge length using my RCBS Precision Mic. Thenumber does not change much, but gives me an accurate base line forthe re-sizing operation. The measurements are recorded on the backof the data sheet. Next I check my previous data sheet for the

Redding Competition Shell Holder I used the last time. I really likethese Redding Competition Shell Holders; it is the only way to getcustom lengths during a re-sizing operation with any level ofconsistency. I am now using a Redding UltraMag Press; this presshas a tremendous amount of mechanical advantage and is a real joyto operate. After placing the correct shell holder in the top of theram, I run the ram up to top dead center. Then I screw the body re-sizing; I use the Redding Competition Body Die, down until itcontacts the top of the shell holder. Now here is a little secret of

mine, I tighten the body die using channel locks hard against the shell holder. This does twothings; first it squares the die to the ram. Second it makes all the brass re-size to the samelength. After tightening the die against the ram I than tighten the die locking ring which should

keep the die in its square to the ram position. The Redding Competition Shell Holder comes in0.002 increments and so far the increments have worked great and I have not needed one inbetween the two standard increments. I think you can play around with how tight you make thebody die and get into a dimension that falls between two increments in the shell holder.

I measure the first case after re-sizing and if okay do the next previous measured cases. Imeasure the same cases before and after re-sizing and in the same order. The measurements arerecorded on the back of the data sheet. Currently, I am under sizing the brass about 0.0005 to0.001 to the fired case. My silhouette rifle with the Red stock Red has fired cases that measure
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jesse99/GREEN_3.XLShttp://mywebpages.comcast.net/jesse99/WIN_TEST.XLShttp://mywebpages.comcast.net/jesse99/PAGETWO.DOChttp://mywebpages.comcast.net/jesse99/GREEN_3.XLShttp://mywebpages.comcast.net/jesse99/WIN_TEST.XLShttp://mywebpages.comcast.net/jesse99/PAGETWO.DOC

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about 0.0015 over the base dimension or minimum cartridge length using my RCBS PrecisionMic. The RCBS Precision Mic is a very handy little tool. Easy to use and no set up required.Just measure. The silhouette rifle with the blue stock "Blue" just got re-barreled and it's firedcases are measuring about 0.0005 over the base dimension or minimum cartridge length usingmy RCBS Precision Mic.

For lubricating the cases before re-sizing I have been stuck in the mud with my Redding CaseLubricating Pad and RCBS water-soluble case lube. The water-soluble lube washes off thehands easier and I put very little on the pad, which puts a very thin coating on the cases. Afterre-sizing I clean the body die by pulling a small rag through the die. Very easy to do with theRedding Competition Body die since it does not have a stem or a primer punch. That is about itfor re-sizing other than I do it after every firing. I do not like hard or even a little firm closingbolt. Remember this is for Silhouette Shooting not Stool Shooting.

One more point or plug for the Redding UltraMag Press. I have seen lots of comments about theForester/Bonanza Co-Ax Press. Its claim to fame is perfect die alignment as well as being awell make press. I have not ever used one, but if you tighten the dies in the UltraMag as Imention above, the die and ram is as square as it gets. Now when you start the ram up during the

re-sizing step and stop just when good contact is made, then lower the ram just enough to let thecase float in the shell holder, and than start the ram up again to complete the re-sizing operation.This little extra step should center the case perfectly in the re-sizing die without any side forces.There is a few thousands float between the case rim and shell holder. All presses made todayhave alignments well within the amount of play that the case rim has in the shell holder. I likemy Redding UltraMag Press, especially after using a Pacific C-Press for over the past fifteenyears.


Neck sizing

This may be a littleover kill for silhouetteshooting, but once youstart using any of theRedding CompetitionDies, you will notwant to use anythingelse. I set myRedding CompetitionNeck Sizing Die in theRedding UltraMagPress in a similar

fashion to the body re-sizing die, but no

tightening with the channel locks. I simply raise the ram and screw the neck-sizing die downuntil it bottoms out on the ram and then unscrew it until the micrometer dial and numbers arefacing the front. I have to unscrew the die about 1/3 turn or about 0.024 in. This is where I leaveit, so I am neck sizing my necks just about the entire neck. I have been using a 0.335 bushing.My current selection is 0.333, 0.335, & 0.337.

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Since the neck sizing is now pushing the old primers out, I will mention here that I have placedsmall piece of 3/8 diameter brass tubing inside ram on the UltraMag Press. This brass tube wascut to a length that allows it rest in the bottom of the ram and just allow the shell holders to clearits top. With this brass tube in place all of the primers and primer dirt goes down the brass tubeand out plastic hose on the bottom of the ram. Keeps the press a lot cleaner.


Solvent Wash

This is something I started after tumbling brass in the redwalnut shells. The amount of red stuff left on the brasswas a mess. So I would solvent wash the brass and I amstill doing it. The solvent wash is a three-step or three-pail

process. First I place the oily cases in an old tin peanutcan (which are harder to find now days) which I have drilla bunch of 1/8 inch drain holes in the bottom. The tinpeanut can holds about 50-52, cases (308 Win.), and Iplaced the cases in the tin can with the primer end orcartridge base up. No good reason for primer up otherthan if some paint or can liner, breaks loose you may see itin the primer pocket and may not see it way down insidethe case. I think the cases also drain better in this position.

Step one is dip into pail of lacquer thinner. First wash andthinner gets dirty

Step two is dip into pail of lacquer thinner. Second wash and thinner stays cleaner

Step three is dip into pail of acetone. Final rinse and acetone dries fast.

Dump brass on terry cloth towel and wipe outside surfaces. Fold towel over cases and rub themaround a little. I use some old one-gallon house paint pails and do this operation outdoors.


Primer pocket cleaning

This is the fast operation. Since the primerpockets have been previously cut to the length

using the K&M Tool, very little effort isrequired to just clean the primer residue out.No sore fingers holding the cases and just letthe electric screwdriver turn the cutter a fewtimes. Let the primer pockets dry thoroughlyfirst or cutter gets a little gummy.

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Case trimming

This is my approach to trimming made fast and

easy. If you have not noticed, the electricscrewdriver keeps appearing. That electricscrewdriver is one the best tool I have everbought. I find myself using it for more andmore things every day.

The first operation in my trimming made easy,starting of the right and then going left is to

trim the case to length. I use the Lee system and I can mount various Lee cutters and lengthguides in the wooden frame. I upgraded my Lee case holder about a year ago by buying one ofSinclairs case holders, which fit into an electric screwdriver. It looks better and easy to use.

The second step is de-burring case neck inside, middle station. For this operation I am using theK & M Tapered Case Mouth Reamer which puts about a 7 degree taper on the inside of the casemouth. This tooling is adjustable and works great. Bullets just slide into the case, and I think ithelps in the alignment.

The third step is to de-bur the outside of the case neck. I use one of RCBS's case de-burringtools for this.

The Skil Electric Screwdriver has been one of the best and most used tools I have purchased. Iuse it for everything, including case trimming. I am on my second battery and had to replace thespring in the on/off switch. The setup using the wooden blocks to hold the power driver oncenter with the tool works very well. The operation is quick and all three operations are donewhile the case is mounted in the shell holder. I sometimes include soot removing wiping

operation as a step four. Simply wipe the case neck (with a little brass polish) while powerturning the case.


Case polishing

This step will make some of the bench rest shooter shudder just a little. But I have changed fromtumbling to vibrating polishing process. I have replaced my Thumblers Tumbler, retired toMoly coating, with a Midway vibrating brass polisher. The Midway works great and I polish100 cases for 3 hours. No beating up the case mouths like the tumbler. I like shinny cases, theymake me shoot better.


Priming

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I use a modified Lee-priming tool. This was the bench rest tool ofchoice back a few years ago. The custom model, I want to say wasdone by Sinclair before he started making his own. The Sinclair tool isprobability a far superior tool than the Lee, but the Lee priming toolhas been working well for me over the years. Anyway, the Secretsfrom the Houston Warehouse said this step does not matter. Aftertwenty five years of picking up one primer at a time, I switch over tothe Lee Auto Primer. Works great. Make a small card borad tray todump the primers into first and then pour onto the Lee Auto Tray.


Adding the Powder

I have been using IMR-4064 in my 308s now for over twenty yearsand no good reason to change. I have won four statechampionships with it, but it still does not meter very well. I justgot a new Redding BR-3 with both rifle and pistol micrometercharging assemblies. I heeded something for a 45ACP (my hand medown Pacific powder measure would not work for small pistolcharges). Looking to find something that would work better onIMR-4064. The BR-3 may be better but IMR-4064 still is hard tometer. I made a slightly longer handle for the BR-3 that cuts orwhatever those long 4064 kernels with the greatest of ease. I canthrow 41.0 grains of IMR-4064 with a standard deviation of about0.150. The same BR-3 will throw Accurate 2520 with a standarddeviation of 0.047. So I can not complain about the Redding BR-3.The round bottom BR-30 maybe better, but my BR-3 has a bondo

round bottom charging chamber. The round bottom-charging chamber improved the standarddeviation from around 0.180 to 0.150. Anyway I throw the charge and then weigh each chargefor my match ammo. All loads are to the 1/10 grain on the electric balance. That is after addingor subtracting a few kernels of IMR-4064.


Bullet seating

My procedure for bullet seating has just changed. At the last silhouette match in 1999, whichwas also the state championship, I found myself with some hard loading ammo. It changed thepoint of aim and got to me at the match (did not feel good and did not shoot good). Afterreturning from the match the best I can figure out is I left two of my MTM-100 boxes loadedwith the bullets loaded long. The best I can conjecture is I was going to adjust them later, but

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forgot about it. Worst of all there was no note if it on thedata sheets. Or I just loaded them with the seating die orseating stem one full rotation off and I did not measurethem. So now I place my Redding Competition Seatingcorrectly in the reloading press, and screw the seating stemout one full turn. Then I seat the bullet in five cartridges.Since these are way long, I insert them into my silhouetterifle and force the bolt close, pushing the bullet back into thecase. I first remove the firing pin assembly from the boltwith Sinclairs Remington firing pin removal tool. Also Ihave removed the ejector pin in my bolt. I find it easier topick the case out of the receiver than pick it up from theground. Then I measure overall length of the five roundsusing my RCBS Precision Mic. I now record this on the

back of the data sheet for this batch. I find that there is a slight difference in the five, so I addthem up and divide by five to get the average. After I have the average, I subtract 0.015 and thisis the depth I will seat to. I am looking for 0.015 in jump to hard contact with the lands.

In my guns, if the bullet is seated out too far and hits the lands the bullet will be pushed back intothe case. I read stories about bench rest shooters who seat their bullets a few thousands into thelands. This brings up an interesting question for me, how do they do that? Or is touching thelands different then hard contacting the lands? A little jump of 0.015 should keep the accuracyup and pressure down. Also measuring each time I reload a batch of cartridges, I can keep trackof any throat erosion.

That concludes my story on how this silhouette shooter reloads after reading too many bench restmagazines.


Larry [email protected]

Rifle Silhouette Shooting

Silhouette Ballistics

Any Questions orWeb Page Comments

E-MailSeptember 4, 2004
mailto:[email protected]://mywebpages.comcast.net/jesse99/anyrange.htmlmailto:[email protected]:[email protected]://mywebpages.comcast.net/jesse99/anyrange.htmlmailto:[email protected]

Reloading 308

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