Ready To Manufacture - cld.pt · 1 INTRODUCTION Introduction INDITEX has developed the...
Transcript of Ready To Manufacture - cld.pt · 1 INTRODUCTION Introduction INDITEX has developed the...
INDEX
Index
Introduction
Scope
Objective
RTM Description
Key Definitions
A. Good Manufacturing Practices and Best Practices for INDITEX Direct Suppliers and Sub-Suppliers
1. INDITEX Direct Supplier and Sub-Supplier Staff
1.1. INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance Manager
1. 2. Training of the INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance Manager
2. Traceability Documents
2.1. Purchase Orders to Suppliers
2.2. Documentation and Records
B. Good Manufacturing Practices and Best Practices for Mills1. Mill Staff
1.1. INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance Manager
1. 2. Training of the INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance Manager
2. General Warehouse Conditions
2.1. Stock Management and Traceability
3. Raw Materials Warehouse
3.1. Raw Material Traceability
3.2. Fiber Composition Analysis
4. Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments Warehouse
4.1. CTW, RTM and MRSL Hard Copies Availability
4.2. Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments Information
4.3. Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments Repackaging and Relabeling
4.4. Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments Weighing
4.5. Dyestuffs/Pigments Specific Storage Conditions
4.6. Auxiliaries Specific Storage Conditions
5. Finished Goods Warehouse
5.1. Finished Goods Identification
5.2. Management of CTW Non Compliance Finished Goods
6. Work in Progress
6.1. Internal Orders Management
7. Dyeing and Washing
7.1. Dyeing and Washing Recipe
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INDEX
8. Printing
8.1. Printing Conditions Criteria
8.2. Printing Recipe
8.3. Printing Paste Conservation
9. Water Discharge Effluents
9.1. Water Discharge Effluents Control
10. Production and Chemical Products Control
10.1. Analysis Requirements for Production Control
10.2. Chemical Products Selection
10.3. Chemical Products Suppliers Evaluation
10.4. Analysis Requirements for Chemical Products Control
10.5. Required Instrumentation for In-House Analysis
10.6. Outsourced Laboratories
10.7. Control Records
11. CTW Management
11.1. Purchase Orders to Suppliers
11.2. Documentation and Records
12. AnnexesAnnex I. Template for Raw Materials and Greige Garments Traceability
Annex II. Template for Auxiliary Products and Dyestuffs/Pigments Stock Traceability
Annex III. Internal Order Template
Annex IV. Main Corrective Actions to Manage CTW/MRSL Non-Compliances
Annex V.a. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Arylamine Control of the Production
Annex V.b. Workflow of the Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Arylamine Control of the Production
Annex VI.a. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Formaldehyde Control of the Production
Annex VI.b. Workflow of the Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Formaldehyde Control of the Production
Annex VII. Dyeing/Printing/Washing Recipe Template
Annex VIII. Summary of In-House Analysis According to the Manufacturing Processes Carried Out
Annex IX. Analysis to be Performed In-House for Color Fasteness Control of the Production
Annex X. Analysis to be Performed In-House for pH Control of the Production
Annex XI. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Fiber Composition Control of the Production
Annex XII. Summary of the Chemical Products Subjected to Analysis
Annex XIII. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for APEOs Control of Chemicals
Annex XIV. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for PFCs Control of Chemicals
Annex XV. Summary of In-House Instrumentation According to the Manufacturing Processes Carried Out
Annex XVI. In-House Color Fastness Analysis Template for Production Control
Annex XVII. In-House pH Analysis Template for Production Control
Annex XVIII. Example of a Chemical Supplier Process Evaluation
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INTRODUCTION
IntroductionINDITEX has developed the manufacturing code “Ready To Manufacture” (hereinafter, RTM) with the aim
of helping its suppliers to comply with the requirements of its product health standard “Clear To Wear”
(hereinafter, CTW) and the “Manufacturing Restricted Substances List” (hereinafter, MRSL).
This document will help you to implement the criteria and requirements to be applied in the facilities of
INDITEX direct suppliers1 as well as in the manufacturing processes, management of warehouses and
chemical products and productions control of the dyeing and printing mills, laundries, tanneries and yarn,
fabric or leather suppliers included in their supply chains.
In case you need further information related to RTM, please do not hesitate to contact INDITEX
through the Corporate Social Responsibility Department (hereinafter, CSR). To this end, send an e-mail to
[email protected] including in the subject the name of the INDITEX brand you are currently working for
and/or you have received a purchase order from.
ScopeRTM covers INDITEX direct suppliers or sub-suppliers
2 as well as the dyeing and printing mills, laundries and
tanneries included in their supply chain.
ObjectiveThe main objective of RTM is to ensure that all INDITEX suppliers comply with CTW requirements and the
MRSL resulted from the “Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals” (hereinafter, ZDHC).3
INDITEX direct suppliers and the mills included in their supply chain into the scope of RTM will find in this
document:
• Textile and leather good manufacturing practices in order to deliver quality products.
• Indications to improve technological skills of their facilities.
• Procedures to ensure proper transmission of CTW and its implications to the entire INDITEX supply chain.
Thus, once these objectives will be achieved, both INDITEX and its suppliers will benefit of a reduction in
manufacturing times and costs associated to article reprocessing due to CTW non compliances.
RTM DescriptionRTM describes good manufacturing practices and best practices related to the different stages of the textile
and leather manufacturing processes in order to ensure production traceability and CTW compliance.
1 Yarn, fabric, leather or garment suppliers who have a direct commercial relationship with INDITEX.2 Suppliers who provide goods to INDITEX direct suppliers and may have their own supply chain. They can be traders or vertically integrated suppliers.3 https://www.inditex.com/en/sustainability/environment/manufacturing
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INTRODUCTION
RTM is structured in two chapters clearly separated “Good Manufacturing Practices and Best Practices for
INDITEX Direct Suppliers and Sub-Suppliers” and “Good Manufacturing Practices and Best Practices for
Mills” included into the supply chain of INDITEX direct suppliers and sub-suppliers.
Important: In case an INDITEX direct supplier is vertically integrated,4 they should comply with the good
manufacturing practices described in “Good Manufacturing Practices and Best Practices for INDITEX Direct
Suppliers and Sub-Suppliers” as well as in “Good Manufacturing Practices and Best Practices for Mills”.
Additionally, compliance with best practices described in both chapters is highly recommended.
Good Manufacturing PracticesGood manufacturing practices are basic requisites that should be implemented in order to achieve RTM objective.
They are summarized and highlighted in red colour at the beginning of every section and their compliance is
mandatory.
Best PracticesAdditionally, RTM includes best practices or recommendations to be implemented and which compliance is not
mandatory but highly recommended. In the same way that the good manufacturing practices, best practices are
summarized and highlighted in green colour and with a dotted line at the beginning of every section.
Note: Best practices are focused in those facilities with a commitment and engagement beyond merely
complying with RTM good manufacturing practices.
RTM Implementation, Performance and EvaluationAs previously mentioned, every INDITEX direct supplier or the dyeing and printing mills, laundries and tanneries
included into their supply chain should comply, at least, with RTM good manufacturing practices. In order to
verify RTM implementation and compliance, a self-audit questionnaire (hereinafter, SAQ) will be provided.
This questionnaire includes questions about all good manufacturing practices included in RTM and only two
answers are possible: “Yes” or “No”. Thus, RTM compliance is only ensured if all questions are positively
answered. On the other hand, a negative answer means that there is a good manufacturing practice that is
not being complied with what could lead to a potential CTW non compliance.
Note: SAQ is only a tool to help mills included in the supply chain of INDITEX direct suppliers or sub-suppliers
to check RTM implementation. Thus, to send it back to INDITEX or any other third party is not needed.
Note: SAQ should be filled in for the mill responsible together with a representative of the INDITEX direct
supplier they are working for.
4 Supplier which participates in all or major stages of production of an article, from the acquisition of raw materials to its production and commercialization.
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INTRODUCTION
Finally, INDITEX will conduct technical audits by means of its internal teams or outsourced and nominated
service providers in order to evaluate RTM implementation. Technical audit results will be communicated to
INDITEX direct suppliers by means of INDITEX extranet.5 According to the results obtained in the technical
audits, two different situations could happened:
• Positive technical audit result (green color): The mill will be periodically audited by means of “Follow-Up
Audits” in order to check that they continue to comply with RTM good manufacturing practices over time.
• Negative technical audit result (red color): The auditor will provide a corrective action plan to the mill that
should be implemented over an agreed time period to ensure that the mill has the opportunity to meet RTM
good manufacturing practices. Afterwards, a second technical audit will happen that in case of a positive
technical audit result (green color) will be followed by the previously described procedure of regular visits
or “Follow-Up Audits”. Conversely, if the result of the technical audit is negative (red color), the commercial
department of the INDITEX brand working with this mill will be informed what may result in temporary or
permanent blocking of purchase orders (hereinafter, PO’s) to this mill.
Important: Remember that RTM good manufacturing practices compliance does not exclude full
CTW compliance.
Key DefinitionsIn order to help in RTM comprehension there are different concepts that should be previously defined:
• Auxiliary products or auxiliaries: RTM considers auxiliaries to the chemicals used during the manufacturing
processes of textile and leather articles without comprising dyestuffs/pigments and chemical commodities
(acids, sodium chloride, sodium sulphate, sodium carbonate, chromium sulphate, caustic soda, hydrogen
peroxide, sodium hydrosulphite, among others).
• Batch: RTM considers a batch to each yarn, fabric, leather or garment delivery from the same supplier,
produced at the same mill, using the same recipe and by means of the same manufacturing process,
regardless the number of shipments and their date. As an example, see the following situations:
o 1 PO supplied by two different suppliers will be considered as two batches.
o 1 PO supplied by the same supplier but in two different dates will be considered as one single
batch only if it was manufactured in the same mill, with the same recipe and by means of the same
manufacturing process.
• Dyeing lot: RTM considers a dyeing lot to the quantity of yarn, fabric, leather or garments that have been
dyed simultaneously, using the same machinery and the same recipe.
Note: Mixing of different dyeing lots should be avoided during storage and the manufacturing process.
5 https://extranet.inditex.com/extranet
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INTRODUCTION
• Dyeing lot number:
traceability purposes.
• Internal order number: RTM considers internal order number to the code assigned to each processing
subset of yarn, fabric, leather or garments from one initial PO.
• Lot number:
supplier assigns to their chemical products for traceability purposes.
• Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL):6 Register of chemical substances that are subject
to a usage ban/restriction during the manufacturing process of an article in order to comply with the “Zero
Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals” (ZDHC).7
• Printing lot: RTM considers a printing lot to the quantity of fabric, leather or garments that have been
printed simultaneously, using the same machinery and the same recipe or until the printing panels or rotary
screens are cleaned.
Note: Mixing of different printing lots should be avoided during storage and the manufacturing process.
• Printing lot number: RTM considers a printing lot number to the identi�cation code assign to a
printing lot for traceability purposes.
• Product to carry out special effects: RTM considers products to carry out special effects all
chemicals comprised in the following categories:
o Transparent printing base pastes.
o White and lac pastes.
o Foam pastes.
o Foil/transfer adhesive.
o Glitter paste.
o High density pastes and puff pastes.
o Pigment gloss and metal effect pastes.
o 3D products.
o Cationic/mordanting agents.
o Wool protectors.
o UV curing agents and additives.
6 https://www.wateractionplan.com/7 https://www.inditex.com/en/sustainability/environment/manufacturing
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INTRODUCTION
• Raw materials: RTM considers raw materials to flat knitted yarn, fabric and leather.
• Recipe: Dyestuffs/pigments and auxillaries formulation use to dye, print or wash yarn, fabrics, leather or
garments.
Note: In case lot number and/or concentration of any of the chemicals used changes, it will be considered
as a different recipe.
• Small part or accessory: RTM considers a small part or accessory to an independent element of the
finished article characterized by:
o Low manufacturing control.
o Low stock traceability.
o Independent manufacturing process to the rest of the article.
o Incorporated to the article at the final stage of its manufacturing process.
• Washing lot: RTM considers a washing lot to the quantity of fabric, leather or garments that have
been washed simultaneously, using the same machinery and the same recipe.
Note: Mixing of different washing lots should be avoided during storage and the manufacturing process.
• Washing lot number: RTM considers a washing lot number to the identification code assign to a washing
lot for traceability purposes.
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A. Good Manufacturing Practices and Best Practices for INDITEX Direct Suppliers and Sub-Suppliers
1. INDITEX Direct Supplier and Sub-Suppliers Staff
1.1. INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance ManagerEvery INDITEX direct supplier or sub-supplier should have a designated person for all health and safety issues
related to INDITEX Product Health Standard, “Clear To Wear” (hereinafter, CTW). This person should have a
deep knowledge of this standard and attend all INDITEX training programs described in the following section
“1.2. Training of the INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance Manager”.
In case that an INDITEX direct supplier is vertically integrated,8 the INDITEX product health and safety standard
compliance manager should ensure that purchasing, production line and technical area managers are deeply
aware of CTW requirements.
Note: In case that a sub-supplier9 is included into the supply chain of an INDITEX direct supplier, both this
sub-supplier and their corresponding dyeing and printing mills, laundries and tanneries should also have their
corresponding INDITEX product health and safety standard compliance manager. In the same way, all facilities
into the supply chain of a sub-supplier should be registered in INDITEX extranet10
by the corresponding
INDITEX direct supplier.
Important: INDITEX product health and safety compliance manager role can be played by one of the workers
already hired and does not imply to hire one more person since only a deep knowledge of CTW is needed.
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR INDITEX DIRECT SUPPLIERS AND SUB-SUPPLIERS
8 Supplier which participates in all or major stages of the production of an article, from the acquisition of raw materials to its production and commercialization.9 Suppliers who provide goods to INDITEX direct suppliers and may have their own supply chain. They can be traders or vertically integrated suppliers.10 https://extranet.inditex.com/extranet
INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance Manager Knowledge Profile.
INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance Manager in the Different Millsof a Vertically Integrated INDITEX Direct Supplier.
1.1. INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance Manager.
Attendance to INDITEX Meetings for Direct Suppliers.
Workshop for Supply Chain CTW Training.
1.2. Training of the INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance Manager.
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GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR INDITEX DIRECT SUPPLIERS AND SUB-SUPPLIERS
Best Practice: Recommended INDITEX product health and safety standard compliance manager knowledge
profile should include the following issues:
• A minimum of 2 years of experience in the textile and/or leather wet processing.
• Knowledge of auxiliaries, dyestuffs/pigments and industrial processes related to the textile and/or leather
processing industry.
• Basic knowledge of legislation related to the textile or leather processing industry as well as the chemical
tests for their control.
• Basic knowledge of environmental legislation and parameters related to the discharge of water effluents.
Best Practice: In case that an INDITEX direct supplier is vertically integrated and has several mills in different
geographical locations, it is highly recommended to have an INDITEX product health and safety standard
compliance manager in all of them.
1.2. Training of the INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance ManagerThe INDITEX product health and safety standard compliance manager should become the in-site internal
trainer for the rest of the workers. In order to be continuously updated about INDITEX policies, this person
should attend to all INDITEX training programs which include:
• e-CTW&STW program: An educational program developed in order to inform, train and support all
suppliers about CTW requirements and, help them to reach its requirements. This program is carried out
by means of webinars (web conferencing meetings) which allow internet conferencing events in real time
with remote locations.
• Technical Audits (TA´s): Visits performed to INDITEX direct suppliers or sub-suppliers by the most skilled
team of experts in textile and leather industry globally nominated by INDITEX to assure CTW and MRSL
requirements compliance.
Best Practice: The INDITEX product health and safety standard compliance manager should also attend:
• INDITEX supplier´s meetings: periodically organized by INDITEX in order to inform, train and aware
suppliers in the compliance of CTW and MRSL requirements.
Best Practice: INDITEX direct suppliers should organize workshops about CTW and MRSL requirements for
both their internal staff and the mills included in their supply chain. Workshops records should be maintained
for at least 2 seasons (12 months approximately).
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GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR INDITEX DIRECT SUPPLIERS AND SUB-SUPPLIERS
2. Traceability Documents
2.1. Purchase Orders to SuppliersAll purchase orders (PO’s) to suppliers should be in written form and including INDITEX PO number and brand
the PO belongs to. Additionally, PO’s should also mention the following remark:
• All goods related to this PO should comply with the latest version of CTW and MRSL.
Important: In case PO includes goods for babies (0-3 years old) it should be also mentioned and highlighted.
Important: Oral communications should be always avoided.
2.2. Documentation and RecordsAll INDITEX direct suppliers should have a documentation management system in order to ensure production
control traceability and their appropriate implementation.
According to this, following is a summary of all documents that should be stored and maintained:
• CTW and MRSL compliance commitment from all suppliers (excluding chemicals suppliers) and mills
into their supply chain of the INDITEX direct supplier or sub-supplier.
o INDITEX direct suppliers or sub-suppliers should get from every mill included into their supply
chain and also from every supplier (excluding chemical suppliers), a written and dully signed
commitment stating that they know and understand both CTW and MRSL and that all the goods
provided by them will comply with their requirements.
Important: Please, note that every time an INDITEX direct supplier decides to include a new mill into their
supply chain, it should be registered on INDITEX extranet.11
In order to have the supply chain information
always updated, it is mandatory to register all facilities used in the last 12 months and that may be used in
the near future. Additionally, any change on it should be also registered as soon as possible and without
waiting for an INDITEX PO.
• Hard copies of all documentation related to CTW, RTM and documents related to the technical audits
conducted to your facilities and the mills included into their supply chain.
• INDITEX PO´s.
2.1. Purchase Orders to Suppliers.
2.2. Documentation and Records.
11 https://extranet.inditex.com/extranet
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GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR INDITEX DIRECT SUPPLIERS AND SUB-SUPPLIERS
• PO´s sent to the mills included into their supply chain.
• Shipment delivery notes to the mills included into their supply chain.
• Shipment delivery notes from the mills included into the supply chain of an INDITEX direct supplier or
sub-supplier to the INDITEX direct supplier of sub-supplier.
• Fiber composition analysis test report for every raw material (except leather) batch purchased:
o Fiber composition analysis test report should be provided by the raw material supplier and
performed in accordance with section “10.1. Analysis Requirements for Production Control”.
Additionally, INDITEX direct supplier or sub-supplier should provide this information to the dyeing
and/or printing mills included in their supply chain before starting the production of the article.
Note: In case of textile processes which could change composition (i.e. carding yarn articles, napping,
brushing, enzymatic washings, “devore”/burnout printing, among others), composition analysis should be
performed at the end of these processes and it will be exclusive responsibility of the INDITEX direct supplier.
Important: Initially, INDITEX direct supplier or sub-supplier should have the required information available
for the current season. Eventually, it should be updated until covering the last 2 seasons (approximately
12 months).
Important: In case an INDITEX direct supplier or sub-supplier is vertically integrated, they should also
comply with good manufacturing practices shown in the following chapter of this document “Good
Manufacturing Practices and Best Practices for Mills”.
Important: RTM compliance does not exclude full CTW compliance. According to this, all INDITEX direct
suppliers should ensure that finished goods comply with CTW requirements previously to their shipment
to INDITEX.
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GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
B. Good Manufacturing Practices and Best Practices for Mills1. Mill Staff
1.1. INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance ManagerEvery yarn, fabric or leather supplier, dyeing and printing mill, laundry or tannery into the supply chain of
an INDITEX direct supplier or sub-supplier should have a designated person for all health and safety issues
related to INDITEX Product Health Standard, “Clear To Wear” (hereinafter, CTW). This person should have a
deep knowledge of this standard and attend all INDITEX training programs described in the following section
“1.2. Training of the INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance Manager”. Additionally, this
person should also ensure that purchasing, production line and technical area managers are deeply aware of
CTW requirements.
Important: INDITEX product health and safety compliance manager role can be played by one of the workers
already hired and does not imply to hire one more person since only a deep knowledge of CTW is needed.
Best Practice: Recommended INDITEX product health and safety standard compliance manager knowledge
profile should include the following issues:
• A minimum of 2 years of experience in the textile and/or leather wet processing.
• Knowledge of auxiliaries, dyestuffs/pigments and industrial processes related to the textile and/or leather
processing industry.
• Basic knowledge of legislation related to the textile or leather processing industry as well as the chemical
tests for their control.
• Basic knowledge of environmental legislation and parameters related to the discharge of water effluents.
INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance Manager Knowledge Profile.
1.1. INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance Manager.
1.2. Training of the INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance Manager.
Attendance to INDITEX Meetings for Direct Suppliers and the Mills Included in their Supply Chain.
Workshop for Internal CTW Training.
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1.2. Training of the INDITEX Product Health and Safety Standard Compliance ManagerThe INDITEX product health and safety standard compliance manager should become the in-site internal
trainer for the rest of the workers. In order to be continuously updated, this person should attend to all
technical audits carried out in the mill:
• Technical Audits (TA´s): Visits performed to the mills included in the supply chain of INDITEX direct
suppliers by the most skilled team of experts in textile and leather industry globally nominated by INDITEX
to assure CTW and MRSL requirements compliance.
Best Practice: The INDITEX product health and safety standard compliance manager should also participate
in the following training programs:
• INDITEX supplier´s meetings: periodically organized by INDITEX in order to inform, train and aware suppliers
and the mills included in their supply chains in the compliance of CTW and MRSL requirements.
• e-CTW&STW program: An educational program developed in order to inform, train and support all
INDITEX direct suppliers and the mills included in their supply chains about CTW requirements and, help
them to reach its requirements. This program is carried out by means of webinars (web conferencing
meetings) which allow internet conferencing events in real time with remote locations.
Best Practice: Mills should organize workshops about CTW and MRSL requirements for internal staff.
Workshops records should be maintained for at least 2 seasons (12 months approximately).
2. General Warehouse ConditionsThis section comprises all good manufacturing practices and best practices common to all warehouses
involved in the textile and leather manufacturing processes. However, in later sections, specific good
manufacturing practices and best practices for raw materials, auxiliaries, dyestuffs/pigments and finished
goods warehouses will be also covered.
2.1. Stock Management and TraceabilityAll stored goods should be always identified by at least, their lot number in the case of dyestuffs/pigments and
auxiliaries or, their batch number for raw materials.
Printed Traceability Documents.
2.1. Stock Management and Traceability.
Use of Location Markers.
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
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Incoming raw materials (yarn, fabrics or leather) and greige garments should be always registered including
all information shown in Annex I.
Stock of auxiliaries and dyestuffs/pigments should be always updated. For this reason, their stock should
be monthly registered including all information shown in Annex II.
Note: In case stock management is automated, the register of chemicals should be printed once a month in
order to have it always available.
Important: Annex I and Annex II templates are for guidance only. Alternatively, any other format which
includes, at least, all the information required in these templates can be used.
Note: Traceability of products which could be stored outdoor (raw materials and auxiliaries) should be always
ensured, even under extreme weather conditions.
Best Practice: In order to avoid confusions, all traceability documents of stored aticles should be always
typed. To ensure the identification of hides, skins and leather in tanneries, traceability codes should also be
stamped on their surface.
Best Practice: Location markers should be used for proper location and identification of goods.
Goods without proper identificationGoods properly identified
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
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3. Raw Materials Warehouse
3.1. Raw Material TraceabilityIncoming raw materials should be identified by their batch number which should be incorporated to an internal
order template including all information shown in Annex III. To ensure an appropriate traceability, internal order
number should accompany the goods along their manufacturing process and storage.
Important: Annex III template is for guidance only. Alternatively, any other format which includes, at least, all
the information required in this template can be used.
3.2. Fiber Composition AnalysisAlong with every batch of flat knitted yarn or fabric provided to a dyeing or printing mill, a composition analysis
should be provided. The analysis should be performed by the raw material supplier according to section “10.1.
Analysis Requirements for Production Control” and provided to the mill by the INDITEX direct supplier or sub-
supplier before the production starts. However, in case composition analysis is not provided by the INDITEX
direct supplier or sub-supplier, composition analysis should be performed directly by the dyeing or printing
mill.
Important: In case batch number information is not available, a composition analysis should be performed
after every reception of a new raw material shipment.
Note: In case of textile processes which could change composition (i.e. carding yarn articles, napping, brushing,
enzymatic washings, “devore”/burnout printing, among others), composition analysis should be performed at
the end of these processes and it will be the exclusive responsibility of the INDITEX direct supplier.
Goods properly identified with location markers
3.1. Raw Material Traceability.
3.2. Fiber Composition Analysis.
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
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4. Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments Warehouse
4.1. CTW, RTM and MRSL Hard Copies AvailabilityCTW, RTM and MRSL hard copies should be always available on-site.
Best Practice: CTW, RTM and MRSL hard copies should be stored close to auxiliaries and dyestuffs/pigments
for ease of reference if necessary.
4.2. Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments InformationAll incoming auxiliaries and dyestuffs/pigments should be properly identified by means of their original labeling
which should always include lot number, chemical product and manufacturer/distributor names.
In case, a chemical product does not include all this information or it does not comply with CTW and/or MRSL
requirements, it should be considered as a CTW and/or MRSL non compliant product, highlighted and store
segregated.
CTW, RTM and MRSL Hard Copies Availability in Close Proximity to Chemicals.
4.1. CTW, RTM and MRSL Hard Copies Availability.
SDS and TDS Availability in Close Proximity to Chemicals.
4.2. Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments Information.
Translation of SDS and TDS Key Information into Local Language.
4.5. Dyestuffs/Pigments Specific Storage Conditions.
4.6. Auxiliaries Specific Storage Conditions.
Dyestuffs/Pigments Warehouse Door or Polymer Curtain.
Proper Opening of the Dyestuff/Pigment Containers.
Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments Auto Dosing System.
Balance Proximity to Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments.
4.3. Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments Repackaging and Relabeling.
4.4. Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments Weighing.
Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments Weighing Responsible Person.
Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments Balance Calibration.
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
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Note: Auxiliaries or dyestuffs/pigments which labels have been totally or partially removed or include hand
written information will not be allowed. In the same way, to remove or hide total or partially their original label
information will be also not accepted.
Additionally, along with the reception of an auxiliary product, dyestuff or pigment for the first time, its Safety
Data Sheet12
(SDS) and Technical Data Sheet13
(TDS), completed and updated, should be included. Additionally,
in case of any update in the SDS or TDS, it should be sent again by the chemical supplier.
Note: Every SDS should be checked to ensure the chemical product does not contain any restricted substance
included in the MRSL or the content of this substance is not above CTW requirements.
Best Practice: SDS and TDS should be stored close to auxiliaries and dyestuffs/pigments for ease of access
if necessary.
12 Document which describes the hazards associated with a chemical product. They list hazardous ingredients (i.e. formaldehyde), types of hazards present and ways that workers should handle the materials and protect themselves.13 Document which summarizes the application mode and other technical characteristics of a chemical product.
Auxiliaries which does not comply with CTW requirements perfectly identified and segregated
Dyestuff which does not comply with CTW requirements perfectly identified and segregated
Dyestuff containers with hand written labels and which labels from their original
manufacturer/distributor have been removed
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
18
Best Practice: Auxiliary products, dyestuffs or pigments instructions for use as well as their main potential CTW
non compliance issues from SDS should be translated into local language to ensure all workers understanding.
Appropriate signs and pictures can be included to highlight key points and reinforce the information.
4.3. Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments Repackaging and Relabeling Auxiliaries and dyestuffs/pigments repackaging and relabeling should be always avoided and carried out only
in case it is strictly necessary. If this happens, new containers should include a label that ensures traceability
to the original one.
Additionally, every time the relabeled container is refilled with a different lot number product, its label should
be updated.
SDS key issues translated into local language
Repackaging of dyestuffs withoutproper identification
Repackaging of dyestuffs with the original labeling attached at their upper lid
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
19
Important: Do not mix auxiliaries or dyestuffs/pigments with different lot numbers in the same container. In the
case of auto dosing systems minimize the mix of different lot numbers as far as possible.
4.4. Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments WeighingIn order to avoid cross contamination during auxiliaries and dyestuffs/pigments weighing, next indications
should be followed:
• Dyestuffs/pigments and auxillaries should be always weighed carefully. In the specific case of solid
dyestuffs (powder, grains and flakes), they should be always weighed independently and then, put together
in one single container.
• Every auxiliary product, dyestuff or pigment should have its own weighing accesory (jar, bucket, spoon,
among others) which should be properly identified and traceable to the product they are used for.
• Containers re-use or modification to ease auxiliaries or dyestuffs/pigments dispense is not allowed.
Dyestuff container with its weighing spoon properly identified
Correct practice
Auxiliaries without their ownweighing accessories
Incorrect practice
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
20
• Auxiliaries and dyestuffs/pigments weighing balance should be always placed in a clean, dry and, flat
surface for proper weighing and to avoid any risk of contamination.
Note: In case the balance is equipped with a level indicator, make sure that it is in the position which implies
that this instrument is well-balanced.
Best Practice: Auto dosing systems are highly recommended since they can reduce the risk of exposure,
spillage and wastage of auxiliaries, dyestuffs and pigments.
Best Practice: Auxiliaries and dyestuffs/pigments handling and weighing should be always carried out by one
trained and designated person and if possible, in a segregated area from the chemical warehouse.
Best Practice: Auxiliaries and dyestuffs/pigments weighing should be carried out once they are placed close
to the balance as carrying small product amounts over large distances can lead to inaccuracy and potential
cross contamination.
Use of no original auxiliaries containers modified by including a tap in their bottom
Use of original auxiliaries containers
Balance under inappropriate conditionsBalance in a clean, dry and flat surface
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
21
Best Practice: Balance needs to be periodically calibrated according to manufacturer recommendations. Once
calibrated, records should be properly maintained.
4.5. Dyestuffs/Pigments Specific Storage ConditionsAll dyestuff/pigment containers should be stored indoor, avoiding direct contact with the floor and walls and
according to what was previously described in section “2. General Warehouse Conditions”. Additionally,
dyestuff and pigment containers should be always stored closed and will be opened only for weighing.
Best Practice: Since most particles of powdered dyestuffs are low specific gravity, dyestuff warehouse should
be equipped with a door or at least, a plastic polymer curtain in order to avoid the contamination of other areas
of the mill.
Improper dyestuff storageProper dyestuff storage
Dyestuff warehouse equipped with a door Dyestuff warehouse equipped witha polymer curtain
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
22
Best Practice: Dyestuff containers should be opened following chemical supplier indications to ensure that
the upper side of the container can be used as its lid.
Best Practice: To keep and maintain a sample of every dyestuff/pigment lot number used for all INDITEX PO’s
received during the last season (approximately 6 months) is highly recommended. In the case of printing mills,
it is also highly recommended to keep and maintained samples of all lot numbers of thickeners, binders, resins
or any other aromatic polyurethane (PU) based products used during the period previously mentioned.
4.6. Auxiliaries Specific Storage ConditionsTo avoid potential cross contamination, auxiliaries in solid and liquid form should be stored in
segregated areas.
Dyestuff containers properly opened Dyestuff containers improperly opened
Liquid and solid auxiliaries stored segregated Liquid and solid auxiliaries improperly stored
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
23
5.1. Finished Goods IdentificationFinished goods should be stored indoor, avoiding direct contact with the floor and walls and according to what
was previously described in section “2. General Warehouse Conditions”. Additionally, finished goods should
be identified with at least, their internal order number which should be traceable to the corresponding internal
order template which should include all the information shown in Annex III.
Important: Annex III template is for guidance only. Alternatively, any other format which includes, at least, all
the information required in this template can be used.
Finished goods storage with an appropriate traceability and avoiding direct contact
with the floor
Finished goods storage without proper traceability and in direct contact with the floor
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
5.1. Finished Goods Identification.
5.2. Management of CTW Non Compliance Finished Goods.
5. Finished Goods Warehouse
Register of Detections/CTW Non Compilances.
24
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
5.2. Management of CTW Non Compliance Finished GoodsIn the case that despite all efforts made during the manufacturing process finished goods do not comply with
CTW requirements, they should be highlighted and stored in segregated areas.
Additionally, the next procedure should be followed:
• Identify the source of the incidence.
• Halt the manufacturing process until the issue is properly identified and solved.
• Inform the customer, the INDITEX direct supplier, who should contact the Corporate Social
Responsibility (here in after, CSR) Department product health and safety area responsible and/or the
commercial agent of the INDITEX brand which placed the order to know the corrective actions to be
implemented.
• Put in place the corrective actions to manage CTW non-compliances and to prevent their recurrence in
future productions (see Annex IV).
Finally, you may be required by the INDITEX CSR Department product health and safety area to be enrolled
in a Root Cause Analysis (RCA) audit in order to evaluate and identify the source of an incidence found in an
article produced in your facilities and delivered to INDITEX and to prevent it in the future.
CTW non compliance finished goods highlighted in red colour and store segregated
Best Practice: All incidences related to detections or CTW non compilances should be registered and
maintained.
25
6. Work In Progress
6.1. Internal Orders ManagementIn order to have proper traceability throughout the entire manufacturing process, work in progress should be
always identified by their corresponding internal order number which should be traceable to the internal order
template (see an example in Annex III). This template should include all the information related to the goods
that are being manufactured and the different processes they are being subjected to.
Important: Annex III template is for guidance only. Alternatively, any other format which includes, at least, all
the information required in this template can be used.
7. Dyeing and Washing
7.1. Dyeing and Washing RecipeAn independent dyeing or washing recipe should be filled in for every dyeing or washing lot. This recipe should
include all the information shown in Annex VII.
Important: In case dyeing or washing recipe includes any codification of a chemical product, its traceability
to the commercially available chemical product name should be ensured.
Important: Annex VII template is for guidance only. Alternatively, any other format which includes, at least, all
the information required in this template can be used.
Best Practice: In order to obtain an appropriate reproducibility and colour fastness results, liquor ratio14 should
be controlled during dyeing.
Best Practice: All dyeing and washing machinery should be microprocessor based controlled in order to control
all key parameters of the process, especially temperature and time, to ensure appropriate reproducibility and
colour fastness results.
Liquor Ratio Control.
Indirect Steam Dyestuff/Pigments Dissolution.
7.1. Dyeing and Washing Recipe.
Dyeing and Washing Parameters Automated Control Machinery.
14 Weight of yarn, fabric or garment to bath proportion.
6.1. Internal Orders Management.
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
26
Best Practice: To prevent metals transportation from the piping system to the articles that are being
manufactured, direct hot steam dyestuff dissolution should be avoided and replaced by indirect steam along
with a stirring facility to provide heat uniformity.
8. Printing
8.1. Printing Conditions SelectionPrinting conditions, especially temperature and resin curing time, are critical since inappropriate settings can
lead to arylamines and formaldehyde promotion and colour fastness decrease.
For this reason, every printing mill should pay special attention to different issues throughout the manufacturing
process and follow the next steps:
• Documents related to the chemical products used (SDS and TDS):
o To check by means of their SDS that content of formaldehyde or any other substance complies
with CTW requirements for the application in use.
Note: Remember that formaldehyde or any other substance contents shown in a SDS are referred
to that specific chemical product and global contributions of all the products included in a printing
recipe could lead to a CTW non compliance.
o To check that application conditions of the chemical products carefully follow TDS instructions.
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
Printing Parameters Automated Control Machinery.
8.2. Printing Recipe.
8.3. Printing Paste Conservation.
8.1. Printing Conditions Selection.
Indirect Steam Dyestuff Dissolution.
Printing Pastes Proper Storage.
Resin Curing Maximum Temperature in Accordance with TDS of the Resin withthe Highest Curing Temperature.
27
• Machinery for printing:
o To check that machinery used for printing is able to reach, maintain and control all parameters
defined in the TDS of the chemical products in use, especially resin curing temperature and time.
o To check that the curing machine has an appropriate steam extraction system which avoids
potential formaldehyde condensation from the chemical products in use and the corresponding
contamination of the articles manufactured.
• Curing process:
o To check by means of temperature stripes, thermocouples or any other thermosensor device and
always previously to start every printing lot that, both final resin curing and intermediate drying steps
(if any) temperatures are in accordance with conditions shown in the TDS of the chemical products
in use.
Note: In case this information is not available in the TDS, the original manufacturer/distributor of the
chemical product should be contacted in order to know maximum temperature and time for every step.
Additionally, any reduction of time and/or temperature not covered by TDS information should be also
checked with the curing resin supplier.
Important: Temperature of intermediate drying steps higher than resin curing temperature will not be allowed.
Important: Whenever possible, chemical products based on aromatic polyurethane (PU) materials should be
avoided since subjected to low or high temperatures or by side reactions between diisocyanate with water may
promote the formation of forbidden arylamines.
o To avoid, whenever possible, printing processes where different resins with different curing
temperatures are used.
Inappropriate printing resin curing without temperature and time control and no steam
extraction
Appropriate printing resin curing with temperature and time control and adequate
steam extraction
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
28
Best Practice: Whenever different resins with different curing temperatures are used, highest temperature for
curing should be always equal or below the maximum curing temperature of the resin with the highest curing
temperature.
Important: The use of heat guns or any other device without a proper control of both time and temperature
the print is subjected to should be always avoided.
8.2. Printing Recipe An independent printing recipe should be filled in for every printing lot. This recipe should include all the
information shown in Annex VII.
Important: In case printing recipe includes any codification of a chemical product, its traceability to the
commercially available chemical product name should be ensured.
Important: Annex VII template is for guidance only. Alternatively, any other format which includes, at least, all
the information required in this template can be used.
Best Practice: All printing machinery should be microprocessor based controlled in order to control all key
parameters of the process, especially temperature and time, to ensure appropriate reproducibility and colour
fastness results.
Best Practice: To prevent metals transportation from the piping system to the articles that are being
manufactured, direct hot steam dyestuff dissolution should be avoided and replaced by indirect steam along
with a stirring facility to provide heat uniformity.
8.3. Printing Paste ConservationAll additives used to preserve printing pastes should comply with CTW and MRSL requirements. For this reason,
make sure you strictly follow section “10.2. Chemical Products Selection”.
Best Practice: To prevent cross contamination and to achieve better traceability, printing paste containers
should be stored closed, properly identified and in a systematic manner.
Printing pastes without proper traceabilityPrinting pastes with good traceability
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
29
9. Water Discharge Effluents
9.1. Water Discharge Effluents ControlBoth INDITEX direct suppliers and the mills included into their supply chains should have a constant
commitment with the protection of the environment and comply with all requirements established by local and
international legislation as well as the use of substances not included in the MRSL.
Additionally, they should be committed to comply with all environmental standards established by INDITEX
including actions to reduce and compensate their own impact on the environment.
10. Production and Chemical Products Control
10.1. Analysis Requirements for Production ControlRTM considers that in order to comply with CTW requirements, all mills included into its scope should
implement an internal procedure to monitor and control their productions. In this regard, RTM aims to become
a reference in the development and implementation of control procedures by means of a set of good practices
of analysis that every mill working for an INDITEX direct supplier should comply with.
Depending on the complexity of the analysis, it should be performed in-house or outsourced:
• Analysis to be performed in-house:
o pH.
o Colour fastness:
- To perspiration.
- To water.
- To rubbing (dry and wet).
- To saliva (only for baby articles).
Important: To know specific exceptions to pH and colour fastness in-house analysis check Annex VIII.
9.1. Water Discharge Effluents Control.
10.1. Analysis Requirements for Production Control.
10.2. Chemical Products Selection.
10.3. Chemical Products Suppliers Evaluation.
10.4. Analysis Requirements for Chemical Products Control.
10.5. Required Instrumentation for In-House Analysis.
10.6. Outsourced Laboratories.
10.7. Control Records.
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
Internal and Written Procedure to Evaluate Chemical Suppliers.
30
Important: Once a month, regardless a new INDITEX PO is received and in order to check pH and colour
fastness results obtained in-house are correct, mills should send one of the samples internally analyzed to one
external lab for correlation. In the specific case of colour fastness, only medium and dark shades should be
sent for correlation.
Note: See section “10.6. Outsourced Laboratories” to know the requirements that an external laboratory
should comply for acceptance of the results provided.
Note: For more information about the main issues related to in-house colour fastness and pH analysis for
production control, see Annex IX and Annex X, respectively.
• Analysis to be outsourced:
o Arylamines.
o Formaldehyde.
o Fiber Composition.
Note: For more information about the main issues related to outsourced analysis for production control see
Annex V.a., Annex V.b., Annex VI.a., Annex VI.b. and Annex XI.
Additionally, you may be required by the INDITEX CSR Department product health and safety area to be
enrolled in different mandatory programs for production control such as:
• Small Pieces Collection & Testing Program (SCOLT Program).
• Composition Guideline.
• Arylamines Guideline.
• Formaldehyde Guideline.
• Colour Fastness Guideline.
• pH Guideline.
10.2. Chemical Products SelectionAuxiliaries, dyestuffs and pigments selection is an important issue to comply with CTW and MRSL requirements.
For this reason, every mill should take into account both documents before purchasing chemicals.
In order to facilitate an appropriate selection of these chemicals, INDITEX provides its suppliers with “The
List by INDITEX”,15
a register of chemicals used in the textile and leather manufacturing processes, produced
by reputed suppliers with high technical skills and classified by their degree of compliance with different
parameters of CTW.
Important: One chemical product will be considered as included in “The List by INDITEX” only if its commercial
name exactly matches with the description shown in this document.
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
15 “The List by INDITEX” will be periodically updated and may incorporate new chemical products, parameters and participants. You can download the latest version of this document directly from INDITEX web page (www.inditex.com).
31
Note: Please, note that “The List by INDITEX” chemical product classification only considers a reduced
number of parameters. For this reason, any other potential CTW non compliances related to other substances
registered in CTW should be checked.
Since the use of chemical products included in “The List by INDITEX” is not mandatory, any other chemical
product not included in this document could be used for any INDITEX production as long as their chemical
supplier complies with the requirements included in section “10.3. Chemical Products Supplier Evaluation”
and the chemical products have been tested according to the requirements shown in Annex V.a., Annex V.b.,
Annex VI.a. and Annex VI.b..
Important: In the specific case of fur and leather industry, special attention should be paid to chromium (Cr)
and particularly to Cr(VI) which should not be present in any of the salts or solutions used during the tanning
process. Additionally, taking into account that Cr(III) can be oxidized to Cr(VI), high oxidizing power products,
unsaturated fats or pH over 6.5 should be avoided.
10.3. Chemical Products Suppliers EvaluationAuxiliaries, dyestuffs and pigments used in an INDITEX production should be acquired from chemical suppliers
which belong to one of the following 2 options:
• To be a chemical supplier not included in “The List by INDITEX” which complies with the following
requirements:
o To provide the mill 1 test report according to Annex XII along with the first delivery of a new lot
number of a chemical product.
Important: In the case of chemical products subjected to APEOs and/or PFCs analysis, test reports should not
be provided along with the first delivery of every new lot number but for 2 of them per year.
Note: Test reports should belong to one of the laboratories shown in “INDITEX Proposed Laboratories
and Sample Collection Centres”16
or any other lab ISO 17025 accredited in the test they are hired for.
Important: Auxiliaries that should not be tested directly but after their application on a fabric, printed panel or
leather should be applied at the highest concentration defined in its TDS and tested.
o To provide the mill both completed and updated SDS and TDS together with the first delivery of
a chemical product. Additionally, in case of any update, SDS and/or TDS should be sent again to
the mill by the chemical supplier.
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
16 Since this document will be periodically updated, you can download the latest version directly from INDITEX web page (www.inditex.com).
32
o To provide all chemical products in their original container and properly identified by means
of their original typed labeling and including product and manufacturer/distributor names and,
chemical product lot number.
o To provide the mill shipment delivery notes where chemical product lot number is included.
• To be a chemical supplier included in “The List by INDITEX”.
Important: Since APEOs are not considered in “The List by INDITEX”, chemical suppliers included in this
document should provide 2 test reports per year of the first delivery of 2 lot numbers of every chemical
subjected to APEOs analysis.
Best Practice: To have an internal and written procedure to evaluate chemical products suppliers is highly
recommended. Annex XVIII shows as an example, some criteria that could be taken into account for
chemical suppliers´ evaluation.
10.4. Analysis Requirements for Chemical Products Control In the same way that productions should be controlled, dyestuffs, pigments and some auxiliary chemicals
should be also checked. For this reason, every mill should test, at least once per year, one lot number of
every chemical product included in the different categories and according to the different parameters shown
in Annex XII.
Important: Chemical products included in “The List by INDITEX” are excluded from this requirement except
for APEOs testing. In this case, chemicals should be always free of APEOs what implies a global content below
100 ppm.
Important: Auxiliaries that should not be tested directly but after their application on a fabric, printed panel or
leather should be applied at the highest concentration defined in its TDS and tested.
Due to the complexity of all analysis related to APEOs and PFCs, tests should be performed in external
laboratories according to Annex XIII and Annex XIV, respectively.
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
33
10.5. Required Instrumentation for In-House AnalysisSince pH and colour fastness analysis should be carried out in-house, mills into RTM scope should have well
trained and qualified staff as well as the following instrumentation:
Important: pH measurements cannot be performed with pH indicator papers or indicator solutions due to their
inaccuracy and that they do not take into account potential pH changes due to temperature variations.
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
Mechanical shakerpH meter with temperature probe
pH Analysis
34
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
Oven
Light box
Mono or Multifiber species
Balance
Colour fastness grey scales
PerspirometerCrockmeter for textiles
Colour Fastness Analysis
35
Note: Please note that in the case of leather, both crockmeter and the cloth for colour fastness to
rubbing are different from textiles.
Important: A summary of in-house instrumentation that should be available in a mill according to the different
manufacturing processes carried out are shown in Annex XV.
10.6. Outsourced LaboratoriesIn order to obtain correct and reliable analytical results, the selection of an external laboratory is critical.
According to this, all outsourced laboratory should comply with one of the following requirement:
• To have an ISO 17025 accreditation in the test they are hired for or,
• To be included in the document “ INDITEX Proposed Laboratories and Sample Collection Centres”.17
Important: To use laboratories shown in “INDITEX Proposed Laboratories and Sample Collection Centres” is
not mandatory.
Finally, in order to facilitate the shipment of samples to the laboratories, INDITEX provides you a set of
sample collection centres worldwide where you can send the samples to be analyzed. Afterwards, the sample
collection centre will assign the laboratory where the analysis will be carried out.
Note: Please, note that samples sent to a collection centre will be sent to laboratories belonging to the same
analytical service provider. For this reason, please check before sending the samples to a collection centre that
the chosen analytical service provider the collection centre belongs to has at least one laboratory capable to
carry out the tests requested.
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
Crockmeter for leather Wool felt cloth for colour fastness to rubbing
17 Since this document will be periodically updated, you can download the latest version directly from INDITEX web page (www.inditex.com).
36
Important: Shipment of dangerous chemical products cannot be performed by means of the sample collection
centres and should be sent directly to the outsourced laboratories. In order to know if a chemical product is considered
as dangerous, air transportation restrictions in SDS section 14 of the chemical product “Transport information”.
Additionally, find below a summary of some recommendations to be followed for an appropriate shipment of
chemical products:
• Use double cap plastic containers.
• Do not use containers with a capacity higher than 30 mL / 30 g.
• Use insulating tape around each container to avoid leaks.
• Pack every container individually in a polyethylene bag.
10.7. Control RecordsTest reports from outsourced laboratories should be maintained for at least 2 seasons (approximately 12
months). In the same way, in-house colour fastness and pH analysis results should be registered including all
information shown in Annex XVI and Annex XVII, respectively, and maintained for the same period of time.
Note: In the case of colour fastness analysis, along with the in-house colour fastness analysis template for
production control (see Annex XVI), tested sample and specimen should be also maintained.
Important: Annex XVI and Annex XVII are for guidance only. Alternatively, any other format which includes, at
least, all the information required in these templates can be used.
11. CTW Management
11.1. Purchase Orders to SuppliersAll PO´s sent to suppliers should be in written form and including the following remark:
• All goods related to this PO should comply with the latest version of CTW and MRSL.
Additionally, in the specific case of PO’s sent to chemical suppliers, the following disclaimer should be also
included:
• All goods included in this PO should be delivered in their original container, with their original labeling
including product name, manufacturer/distributor name and chemical product lot number.
Important: Oral communications should be always avoided.
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
11.1. Purchase Orders to Suppliers.
11.2. Documentation and Records.
37
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
11.2. Documentation and RecordsEvery mill included into the supply chain of an INDITEX direct supplier should have a documentation
management system in order to ensure productions and chemicals control traceability. For this reason, find
below the information that should be available on-site:
• PO´s received from the INDITEX direct supplier.
• Shipment delivery notes from the INDITEX direct supplier to the mill.
• Shipment delivery notes from the mill to the INDITEX direct supplier.
• Templates for raw materials and greige garments traceability (see an example in Annex I).
• Templates for auxiliaries and dyestuffs stock traceability (see an example in Annex II).
• Internal order templates (see an example in Annex III).
• Dyeing/printing/washing recipe templates (see an example in Annex VII).
• In-house colour fastness and pH analysis templates (see examples in Annex XVI and Annex XVII,
respectively).
• CTW, RTM, MRSL and technical audits corrective actions plan (if any) hard copies.
• PO´s sent to chemical suppliers.
• Shipment delivery notes from the chemical suppliers to the mill.
• ISO 17025 accreditation certificate for external labs in use and not registered in “INDITEX Proposed
Laboratories and Sample Collection Centres”.
• Reports of all tests carried out in external laboratories for fiber composition, formaldehyde, arylamine,
APEOs and PFCs control as well as for pH and colour fastness correlation studies.
• Test reports provided by chemical suppliers along with the first delivery of a new lot number of a chemical
product not included in “The List by INDITEX” and subjected to analysis according to Annex XII.
• SDS and TDS of all dyestuffs/pigments and auxiliary products.
38
GOOD MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND BEST PRACTICES FOR MILLS
Important: Initially, mills into the supply chain of an INDITEX direct supplier should provide the required
information for the current season. Eventually, it should be updated until covering the last 2 seasons
(approximately 12 months).
Important: In order to ensure full CTW compliance, in-house pH and colour fastness analysis templates and
test reports from external laboratories, should be provided to the INDITEX direct suppliers.
40
MONTH
Date Delivery Note Nº Supplier/Customer Name Quantity Batch NºFiber Composition
Analysis (Y/N)Name and Signature
Annex I. Template for Raw Materials and Greige Garments Traceability
Month when the raw materials or greige garments were received at the raw materials warehouse.
Number of units in which goods sent by the customer are received at the raw materials warehouse.
manufacturing process, regardless the date and the number of deliveries.
Name and signature of the person in charge of controlling the incoming and outgoing raw materials and greige garments at the raw materials warehouse.
INDITEX Proposed Laboratories and Sample Collection Centres” (applicable only for
41
MonthlyConsumption
(kg or L)
Annex II. Template for Auxiliary Products and Dyestuffs/Pigments Stock Traceability
ChemicalProductLot Nº
ManufacturerName
ChemicalProductName
DistributorName
Initial Stock(kg or L)
QuantityPurchased(kg or L)
Final Stock(kg or L) 8 Comments
Month considered to calculate the consumption of auxiliary products and dyestuffs/pigments.
Commercial name of the auxiliary product or dyestuff/pigment.
Lot number(s) of the auxiliary product or dyestuff/pigment.
Name of the manufacturer of the auxiliary product or dyestuff/pigment.
Name of the distributor that is commercializing the auxiliary product or dyestuff/pigment.
Amount of auxiliary product or dyestuff/pigment available at the warehouse at the beginning of the current month.
Amount of auxiliary product or dyestuff/pigment purchased during the current month.
Amount of auxiliary product or dyestuff/pigment available at the warehouse at the end of the current month when the stock is checked.
Consumption of auxiliary product or dyestuff/pigment during the current month. This calculation should be performed as follows: Initial Stock + Quantity Purchased – Final Stock
MONTH
Delivery Note Nº Batch Nº
Internal Order Nº Composition/Leather Type
Quantity (Units/Weight/Length/Area)
Article Description
Description Date
Date
Customer Name
Process 1
Process 2
Process 3
Process 4
Annex III. Internal Order Template
GENERAL INFORMATION
PROCESSES
42
Description of the fibers and percentages (for textiles) or the type of leather that the article processed is made of.
Amount of yarn, fabric, leather or garments that are being processed in the internal order.
Description of the article that is being processed (yarn, fabric, trousers, t-shirt, etc.).
Description of the different processes that the articles included in the internal order are or will be subjected to.
Date when the mentioned process is carried out.
Identification code assigned to the goods sent by the customer once they are received at the facility warehouse.
Date when the internal order is processed.
Identification code of each one of the yarn, fabric, leather or garment deliveries from the same supplier, produced at the same mill, using the same recipe and by means of the same manufacturing process.
Code assigned to each processing subset of yarn, fabric, leather or garments from one initial purchase order while they are being processed.
43
Annex IV. Main Corrective Actions to Manage CTW/MRSL Non-Compliances
CTW / MRSLNON COMPLIANCE INCIDENCE INCIDENCE MANAGEMENT
AND FOLLOW-UP
ArylaminesDetection of arylamines values over 5 ppm in the first dyeing
or printing lot.
To remove from the recipe the chemical product responsible of the incidence.
To store the chemical product segregated and highlighted as “CTW non compliant”.
To replace the chemical product in the recipe for another one previously analyzed or classified as “A”
or “B” in “The List”.
To continue controlling production as per RTM indications (see Annex V.a. and Annex V.b.).
Formaldehyde
Detection of formaldehyde values over 16 ppm (5 ppm
for baby articles) in the first dyeing or printing lot.
To ensure a proper washing off the affected lots.
To check formaldehyde values in all reprocessed lots.
To remove from the recipe the chemical product responsible of the incidence.
To store the chemical product segregated and highlighted as “CTW non compliant”.
To replace the chemical product in the recipe for another one previously analyzed or classified as “A”
or “B” in “The List”.
To continue controlling production as per RTM indications (see Annex VI.a. and Annex VI.b.)
Colour Fastness
Test results out of CTW requirements during the
approval/regularity stage of colour fastness production
control.
To reprocess the article if possible.
To check colour fastness by means of colour fastness analysis type which provided the CTW non
compliance result in all reprocessed lots.
To adapt the manufacturing process in accordance with previous article reprocessing.
To continue controlling production as per RTM indications (see Annex IX).
pH
Test results out of CTW requirements during pH
control in a dyeing/printing/washing lot.
To reprocess the article to ensure pH values in accordance with CTW requirements.
To adapt the manufacturing process in accordance with previous article reprocessing.
To continue controlling production as per RTM indications (see Annex X).
In the case of baby articles (0-3 years old), make sure that external laboratory is able to provide a suitable detection limit to quantify values equal or above 5 ppm.
44
ARYLAMINE ANALYSIS
HOW MUCH?WHAT? WHO? WHEN? HOW?
“A” in “The List”
as “B(4)” in “The List”
as “C(4)” in “The List”
No analysis is needed for the current recipe
No analysis is needed for the current recipe
Use is prohibited in INDITEX productions
After reception of the
chemical product at the
mill warehouse
Dyeing and
printing mills,
tanneries and
laundries
Annex V.a. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Arylamine Control of the Production
BS EN
14362-1:2012
Annex F
1 analysis of the chemical product per year
1 analysis of the chemical product per year
Chemical products not included
in “The List” with a result
> 20 ppm
· Dyestuffs
· Pigments
· Inks
Chemical products not included
in “The List” with a result
< 20 ppm
45
ARYLAMINE ANALYSIS
HOW MUCH?WHAT? WHO? WHEN? HOW?
as “A” in “The List”
as “B(4)” in “The List”
as “C(4)” in “The List”
No analysis is needed for the current recipe
No analysis is needed for the current recipe
Use is prohibited in INDITEX productions
Annex V.a. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Arylamine Control of the Production (continuation)
1 analysis of the chemical product per year
1 analysis of the chemical product per year
Chemical products not included
in “The List” with a result
> 5 ppm (application analysis)
· Chemical products
based on aromatic PU
· Cross-linkers/
catalyst based on
aromatic aziridines
· Cross-linkers/catalyst
based on blocked
aromatic isocyanates
· Glues
· AdhesivesChemical products not included
in “The List” with a result
< 5 ppm (application analysis)
Dyeing and
printing mills,
tanneries and
laundries
After reception of the
chemical product at
the mill warehouse
Textile
BS EN 14362-1:2003
BS EN 14362-2:2003
BS EN 14362-1:2012
In case of aniline or
1,4-phenylenediamine detection
LFBG B82.02-9or
BS EN 14362-3:2012
LeatherISO 17234:2015
In case of aniline or
1,4-phenylenediamine detection
LFBG B82.02-9or
ISO/TS 17234-2:2011
46
First dyeing/printing
lot result < 5 ppm
ARYLAMINE ANALYSIS
HOW MUCH?WHAT? WHO? WHEN? HOW?
Annex V.a. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Arylamine Control of the Production (continuation)
Dyed/printed articles with
as “A” in “The List”
No analysis is needed for the current recipe
dyeing/printing lot
of the current recipe
First dyeing/printing
lot result < 5 ppm
No more analysis
are needed for the
current recipe
No more analysis
are needed for the
current recipe
First dyeing/printing
lot result > 5 ppm
First dyeing/printing
lot result > 5 ppm
See section 5.2
See section 5.2
No analysis is needed for the current recipe
dyeing/printing lot
of the current recipe
Dyeing and
printing mills,
tanneries and
laundries
Just after the end of the
process
Textile
BS EN 14362-1:2003
BS EN 14362-2:2003
Any typeBS EN 14362-
1:2012
In case ofaniline or 1,4-
phenylenediamine detection
LFBG B82.02-9or
BS EN 14362-3:2012
LeatherISO 17234:2015
In case of aniline or 1,4-
phenylenediamine detection
LFBG B82.02-9or
ISO/TS 17234-2:2011
Dyed/printed articles with
chemical products
B(4)” in “The List”
Dyed/printed articles with
chemical products not
included in “The List” which
provided a result
< 20 ppm (chemical analysis)
or
< 5 ppm (application analysis)
Dyed/printed articles with
chemical products not
included in “The List” which
provided a result
> 20 ppm (chemical analysis)
or
> 5 ppm (application analysis)
Finished
Articles
Note:
47
ARYLAMINE ANALYSIS
HOW MUCH?WHAT? WHO? WHEN? HOW?
Annex V.a. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Arylamine Control of the Production (continuation)
Before small
parts are
attached to the
article
Textile
BS EN 14362-1:2003
BS EN 14362-2:2003
Any typeBS EN 14362-
1:2012
In case ofaniline or 1,4-
phenylenediamine detection
LFBG B82.02-9or
BS EN 14362-3:2012
LeatherISO 17234:2015
In case of aniline or 1,4-
phenylenediamine detection
LFBG B82.02-9or
ISO/TS 17234-2:2011
Small parts´ supplier criteria
or
9 small parts randomly collected from the whole purchase order
Small Parts
Small
parts´ supplier
or
INDITEX
direct supplier
Transfer printed
articles with elastane
Finished Articles
Dyeing and
printing mills,
tanneries and
laundries
Just after
the end of the
dyeing/printing
process
printing lot
No more analysis are
needed for the
current recipe
No more analysis are
needed for the
current recipe
See section 5.2
See section 5.2
Printed articles using
resins with different
curing temperatures
First printing lot
result ≤ 5 ppm
First printing lot
result > 5 ppm
First printing lot
result ≤ 5 ppm
First printing lot
result > 5 ppm
Note:
Annex V.b. Workflow of the Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Arylamine Control of the Production
Additionally, all chemical products not included in “The List by INDITEX” and subjected to analysis (see Annex XII) should be tested by the mill once per year.
Does the chemical product belong to any of the categories subjected to arylamine analysis
shown in Annex XII?
No analysis is needed
Result ≤ 20 ppm
(chemical analysis)≤ 5 ppm
(application analysis)
Result ≤ 5 ppm
Result > 20 ppm
(chemical analysis)> 5 ppm
(application analysis)
Result > 5 ppm
Test 1st dyeing/printing lot of the current recipe
Test 1st dyeing/printing lot of the current recipe
No more tests are needed
for the current recipe
No more tests are needed for the current recipe
Follow INDITEX instructions
Inform customer
Customer informs INDITEX
Use is prohibited in INDITEX productions. Highlight and segregate
Is it included in “The List”?
Check test report of the specific lot number
in use provided by chemical supplier
Check classification (A, B(4) or C(4))
YES
NO
A
No analysis is neededNO
B(4) C(4)
48
YES
49
Annex VI.a. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Formaldehyde Control of the Production
FORMALDEHYDE ANALYSIS
HOW MUCH?WHAT? WHO? WHEN? HOW?
Chemical
as “A” in “The List”
Chemical
as “B(1)” in “The List”
Chemical
as “C(1)” in “The List”
Chemical products
not included in “The
List” with a result
< 16 ppm application analysis
(< 5 ppm for baby articles)
Chemical products
not included in “The
List” with a result
> 16 ppm application analysis
(> 5 ppm for baby articles)
No analysis is needed
for the current recipe
No analysis is needed
for the current recipe
1 analysis of the chemical product
per year
1 analysis of the chemical product
per year
Use is prohibited in INDITEX productions
After reception of the
chemical product at the
mill warehouse
Dyeing and printing
mills, tanneries and
laundries
Textile
ISO/EN 14184:2011
or
GB/T 2912.1:2009
Leather
ISO/TS 17226:2008
or
GB/T 19941:2005
· Fixers for dyeing
· Fixers for printing*
· Resins
· Cross-linkers/catalyst
based on melamine-
formaldehyde
· Fluorescent pigments
· Glues
· Adhesives
· Products for coating
· Thickeners
· Binders
· Retanning agents
produced by
condensation reactions
with formaldehyde
· Products to carry out
special effects
“Key Definitions” section.
In the case of baby garments, make sure that external laboratory is able to provide a suitable detection limit to quantify the above mentioned concentrations.
Note: Extreme precautions to avoid CTW non compliances when performing processes which homogeneity may not be achieved, such as spraying, garment tinting, among others.
Note:
50
Annex VI.a. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Formaldehyde Control of the Production (continuation)
FORMALDEHYDE ANALYSIS
HOW MUCH?WHAT? WHO? WHEN? HOW?
Dyed/printed
articles with chemical
“A” in “The List”
No analysis is needed for the current recipe
No analysis is needed for the current recipe
dyeing/printing
lot of the current
recipe
dyeing/printing
lot of the current
recipeFirst
dyeing/printing lot result > 16 ppm (> 5 ppm for baby
articles)
No more analysis are
needed for the current recipe
No more analysis are
needed for the current recipe
See RTM section 5.2
See RTM section 5.2
Dyeing and
printing mills,
tanneries and
laundries
Just after the end of the
process
Textile
ISO/EN 14184:2011
or
GB/T 2912.1:2009
Leather
ISO/TS 17226:2008
or
GB/T 19941:2005
Dyed/printed
articles with chemical
“B(1)” in “The List”
Dyed/printed articles with chemical
products not included in “The List” which provided a result
< 16 ppm(< 5 ppm for baby
articles)
Finished
Articles
First dyeing/printing
lot result < 16 ppm (< 5 ppm for baby
articles)
In the case of baby garments, make sure that external laboratory is able to provide a suitable detection limit to quantify the above mentioned concentrations.
First dyeing/printing
lot result < 16 ppm (< 5 ppm for baby
articles)
First dyeing/printing
lot result > 16 ppm (> 5 ppm for baby
articles)
Dyed/printed articles with
chemical products not included in “The List”
which provided a result
> 16 ppm (> 5 ppm for baby
articles)
Note: Extreme precautions to avoid CTW non compliance when performing processes which homogeneity may not be achieved, such as spraying, garment tinting, among others.
Note:
51
Annex VI.a. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Formaldehyde Control of the Production (continuation)
FORMALDEHYDE ANALYSIS
HOW MUCH?WHAT? WHO? WHEN? HOW?
Before small parts are
attached to the article
Small parts´ supplier criteria
or
9 small parts randomly collected from the whole purchase order
Small parts´ supplier
or
INDITEX direct supplier
Small Parts
Textile
ISO/EN 14184:2011
or
GB/T 2912.1:2009
Leather
ISO/TS 17226:2008
or
GB/T 19941:2005
52
Annex VI.b. Workflow of the Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Formaldehyde Control of the Production
Does the chemical product belong to any of the categories subjected to formaldehyde analysis
shown in Annex XII?
No analysis is needed
No analysis is needed
Result ≤ 16 ppm (≤ 5 ppm for baby
articles)
Result ≤ 16 ppm(≤ 5 ppm for baby articles)
Result > 16 ppm(> 5 ppm for baby articles)
Result > 16 ppm (> 5 ppm for baby
articles)
Test 1st dyeing/printing lot of
the current recipe
Follow INDITEX instructions
Inform customer
Customer informs INDITEX
Test 1st dyeing/printing lot of
the current recipe
Use is prohibited in INDITEX productions. Highlight and segregate
Is it included in “The List”?
Check test report of the specific lot number in use provided by
the chemical supplier
Check classification (A, B(1) or C(1))
YES
NO
A C(1)
NO
YES
B(1)
In the case of baby garments (0-3 years old), make sure that external laboratory is able to provide a suitable detection limit to quantify the above mentioned concentrations.
No more tests are needed
for the current recipe
No more tests are needed for the current recipe
Additionally, all chemical products not included in “The List by INDITEX” and subjected to analysis (see Annex XII) should be tested by the mill once per year.
53
Recipe Nº Composition/Leather Type
Date Colour
Internal Order Nº
Machine ID.
Customer Name
Dyestuff/Pigment or Auxiliary Product
Lot Nº Chemical Product Name%, cc/L or g/L Quantity
Quantity (Units/Weight/Length/Area)
GENERAL INFORMATION
DYEING/PRINTING/WASHING PROCESS
Annex VII. Dyeing/Printing/Washing Recipe Template
SAMPLE (optional)
Pick Up(only for continuous dyeing)
Comments
TDS Time for Resin Curing (only for printing)
Resin Curing Time Applied (only for printing)
TDS Maximum Temperature for Resin Curing(only for printing)
Applied Resin Curing Temperature(only for printing)
Applied Maximum Temperature forIntermediate Drying
(only for printing)
17
18
54
Description of the expected colour after the process described in the recipe.
Code assigned to each processing subset of yarn, fabric, leather or garments from one initial purchase order while they are being processed.
Identification code of the machine where the dyeing, printing or washing process has been carried out.
Identification code a dyestuff/pigment or auxillary product supplier assigns to their chemical products for traceability purposes.
Commercial name of the dyestuff/pigment or auxiliary product that is being used in the recipe and which lot number has been previously provided.
Identification code of a recipe used in the dyeing, printing or washing processes of a specific internal order.
Date when the recipe is used for a dyeing, printing or washing process of a specific internal order.
Amount of yarn, fabric, leather or garments that are being dyed, printed or washed using the recipe.
Description of the fibers and percentages (for textiles) or the type of leather that the article processed is made of.
Concentration of dyestuff/pigment or auxiliary used in the recipe.
Amount of dyestuff/pigment or auxiliary used in the recipe. In case the amount of dyestuff/pigment or auxiliary product is expressed as a percentage, the amount is calculated multiplying this percentage by the amount of yarn, fabric, garment or leather that is being dyed, printed or washed. In case the concentration is expressed in g/L, this amount will be multiplied by the number of dyeing, printing or washing bath litres.
Amount of water absorbed by a fabric in a continuous dyeing process after leaving the bath of dyestuff.
Maximum temperature that has been applied for final resin curing.
Maximum temperature that has been applied during intermediate drying steps (if any) and before final resin curing.
Time or time range that should be used for resin curing according to resin manufacturer TDS.
Area reserved for those cases in which a sample of the dyeing, printing or washing process is stored.
Time used for final resin curing.
Maximum temperature that can be used for final resin curing according to resin manufacturer TDS. In case an article is printed using different resins with different curing temperature, highest temperature for curing should be always equal or below the maximum curing temperature of the resin with the highest curing temperature.
17
18
55
Annex VIII. Summary of In-House Analysis According to the Manufacturing Processes Carried Out
NoYes
Process
SUMMARY OF IN-HOUSE ANALYSIS
IN-HOUSE ANALYSIS
COLOUR FASTNESSpH
To perspiration
Yes
To water To dry rubbing To wet rubbing To saliva
Continuous dyeing
YesFlat knitted yarn dyeing
orFabric exhaust dyeing
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
Yes
Garment dyeing
Yarn dyeing
Denim fabrics dyeing
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
NoPositional printing No
No
No
No No No No
Yes Yes No
YesSoluble dyestuffs and VAT/Disperse
continuous printing Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
YesPigment continuous printing No No Yes Yes No
No
No
Transfer printing of cellulosic -
Transfer printing of polyester articles
Yes
No
Yes
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
NoTannery No No Yes Yes No
Laundry (without dyeing processes) No No No No
Only for baby articles (between 0 and 3 years old).
56
Annex IX. Analysis to be Performed In-House for Colour Fastness Control of the Production
COLOUR FASTNESS ANALYSIS
HOW MUCH?
REGULARITY CONTROL STAGE
PALE SHADE MEDIUM SHADE DARK SHADEPROCESS APPROVAL STAGE
WHAT? WHO? WHEN? HOW?
FabricContinuous
Dyeing
Finished
Articles
1 analysis of each type of
colour fastness
meters
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result
during the approval stage every 40,000
meters
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result
during the approval stage every 20,000
meters
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result
during the approval stage every 10,000
meters
Dyeing and
printing mills
Just after the end
of the dyeing/
process 3
To WaterGB/T 5713-2013
orISO 105-E01:2013
To RubbingGB/T 3920-2008
orISO 105-X12:2001
To PerspirationGB/T 3922-2013
orISO 105-E04:2013
To Saliva(only for baby
articles)GB/T 18886:2002
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result
during the approval stage every 20 dyeing
lots
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result
during the approval stage every 6 dyeing
lots
1 analysis of each type of
colour fastness
dyeing lot
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result
during the approval stage every 40
dyeing lots
GarmentDyeing
PigmentContinuous
Printing
SolubleDyestuffs and VAT/DisperseContinuous
Printing
1 analysis of each type of
colour fastness
meters
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result
during the approval stage every 20,000
meters
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result
during the approval stage every 10,000
meters
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result
during the appro-val stage every 5,000 meters
1 analysis of each type of
colour fastness
dyeing lot
1 analysis of colour fastness
to rubbing in
meters
1 analysis of colour fastness to rubbing every 20,000 meters
1 analysis of colour fastness to rubbing every 10,000 meters
1 analysis of colour fastness to rubbing every
5,000 meters
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result
during the approval stage every 20 dyeing
lots
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result
during the approval stage every 10 dyeing
lots
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result
during the approval stage every 4 dyeing
lots
Fabric or YarnExhaustDyeing
Pigment Positional Printing
1 analysis of colour fastness to rubbing every
5 printing lots
1 analysis of colour fastness
to rubbing of the
1 analysis of colour fastness to rubbing every 3
printing lots
1 analysis of colour fastness to rubbing per
printing lot
57
Annex IX. Analysis to be Performed In-House for Colour Fastness Control of the Production (continuation)
COLOUR FASTNESS ANALYSIS
HOW MUCH?
REGULARITY CONTROL STAGE
PALE SHADE MEDIUM SHADE DARK SHADEPROCESS APPROVAL STAGE
WHAT? WHO? WHEN? HOW?
Small Parts
Leather Dyeing/Finishing
1 analysis of colour fastness
to rubbing of the �rst dyeing lot
1 analysis of colour fastness to rubbing every
5 dyeing lots
1 analysis of colour fastness to rubbing every
3 dyeing lots
Small parts supplier criteriaor
9 small parts randomly collected from the whole purchase order
Small parts´ supplier
or the INDITEX direct
supplier
TanneriesAt the end of the
process
To RubbingISO 11640:2012
(For leather)or
EN ISO 17700:2005
(For footwear)
Before small parts are attachedto the article
1 analysis of colour fastness to rubbing per
dyeing lot
Transfer printed articles withCellulosic-
Polyester Fiber Blends
1 analysis of each type of
colour fastness
printing lot or
meters
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result
during the approval stage every 5 printing lots or 20,000
meters
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result
during the approval stage every 3 printing lots or 10,000
meters
1 analysis of the colour fastness analysis type
which provided the worst result during the approval stage every printing lot or 5,000 meters
Transfer printedPolyesterArticles
1 analysis of colour fastness
to rubbing in
2,500 meters
1 analysis of colour fastness to rubbing every 5 printing lots or 20,000 meters
1 analysis of colour fastness to rubbing every 3 printing lots or 10,000 meters
1 analysis of colour fastness to rubbing every
printing lot or 5,000 meters
Dyeing and printing mills
Just after the end of the dyeing/
printing process
To WaterGB/T 5713-2013
orISO 105-E01:2013
To RubbingGB/T 3920-2008
orISO 105-X12:2001
To PerspirationGB/T 3922-2013
orISO 105-E04:2013
To Saliva(only for baby
articles)GB/T 18886:2002
Transfer printed articles
Regularity control should be carried out by means of the colour fastness analysis test which provided the worst result during the approval stage. In case all types of colour fastness analysis provided the same result, the type of colour fastness to be used will be selected randomly.
To perform color fastness analysis according to legislation does not imply to invest in laboratory infrastructures but, follow analytical methodologies and make sure analytical
Note:
58
Annex X. Analysis to be Performed In-House for pH Control of the Production
pH ANALYSIS
HOW MUCH?
PROCESS ANALYSISWHAT? WHO? WHEN? HOW?
ContinuousDyeing
or Washing
SolubleDyestuffs and VAT/DisperseContinuous
Printing
ExhaustDyeing
or Washing 1 analysis every
3 dyeing/washing
lot
Last mill in the dyeing/printing/
washing process
Just after the end of
the dyeing/printing
process but always
after washingGB/T 7573-2009
or
ISO 3071-2005
1 analysis every
10,000 meters
per dyeing/
printing/washing
lot
GarmentDyeing
or Washing
Small parts´ supplier criteria
or
9 small parts randomly collected
from the whole purchase order
Small parts´ supplier
or
the INDITEX direct supplier
Before small parts are
attached to the article
Finished Articles
Small Parts
Remember that according to legislation, every analysis should be performed in triplicate.
To perform analysis according to legislation does not imply to invest money in laboratory infrastructures but, follow analytical methodologies and make sure analytical instrumentation comply
Note:
59
Annex XI. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for Composition Control of the Production
COMPOSITION ANALYSIS
HOW MUCH?WHAT? WHO? WHEN? HOW?
Cellulosic Fiber Blend
Regenerated
(mainly carding yarn)
3(from 9.000 meter onwards, 1 analysis every 3.000 meters
until a maximum of 9 analysis)
Fiber Blends with Elastane
3
3
3
1
3
Before raw material´s
shipment
Raw material
supplier
or
dyeing/printing
mill
For Binary Fiber Blends
Directive 1007/2011/
CE, Standard EN ISO
1833-1:2010
or
GB/T 2910.1:2009
or
GB/T 29862:2013
For Tertiary Fiber Blends
Directive 1007/2011/
CE, Standard EN ISO
1833-2:2010
or
GB/T 2910.2:2009
or
GB/T 29862:2013
Fiber Blends for Linings
Animal Fibers Blends
Others
blends, among others)
Secondary components’ supplier criteria
or
9 secondary components randomly collected from the whole
purchase order
Secondary
components supplier
or
the INDITEX
direct supplier
Before secondary
components are
attached
to the article
· Flat knitted yarn
· Fabrics
Secondary
Components
TYPE OF FABRIC ANALYSIS PER BATCH
RTM considers secondary component to a textile element of an article, different to the main and secondary fabrics, the percentage of which exceeds 5 % or 15 % on weight or surface, respectively.Elbow patches, edgings and embroideries, among others, are examples of secondary components.
Note: In case of textile processes which could change composition (i.e. carding yarn articles, napping, brushing, enzymatic washings, “devoreshould be performed at the end of these processes and it will be the exclusive responsability of the INDITEX direct supplier.
60
Annex XII. Summary of the Chemical Products Subjected to Analysis
Formaldehyde Arylamines APEOs PFCsChemical Product
X
X
X
X
X
X
X X
X X
X
X
X
X
X X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Fixers for dyeing
Fixers for printing
Resins
Cross-linkers/catalyst based on aromatic aziridines
Cross-linkers/catalyst based on melamine-formaldehyde
Cross-linkers/catalyst based on blocked aromatic isocyanates
Glues
Adhesives
Products to carry out special effects
Products for coating
Thickeners
Binders
Dyestuffs
Pigments (except fluorescent ones)
Fluorescent Pigments
Chemical products based on
aromatic PU
Inks
Water repellents
Oil repellents
Soil release
Lubricants for dyeing processes
Antistatics
Dispersing agents
Emulsifiers
Silicon based softeners
Levelling agents
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
- - -
X
X
X
X
XDetergents
Fatliquors
Retanning agents
Retanning agents produced by
condensation reactions with
formaldehyde
Auxiliaries with high content of
emulsifiers or dispersing agents
- - -
- - -
- - -
X
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- - - - - -
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- - - - - -
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Chemical products included in this category should not be tested directly but after their application on a fabric, printed panel or leather should be applied at the highest concentration defined in its TDS and tested.
To know which chemical products are comprised in this category, see its definition in “Key Definitions” section.
Important: All tests should be conducted in external laboratories in accordance with section “10.6 Outsourced Laboratories”.
61
Annex XIII. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for APEOs Control of Chemicals
APEOs ANALYSIS
HOW MUCH?WHAT? WHO? WHEN? HOW?
1 analysis of the chemical product per year
Chemical products
which provided
a result
< 100 ppm
Chemical products
which provided
a result
> 100 ppm
Use is prohibited in INDITEX productions
After reception
of the chemical
product at the
mill warehouse
Dyeing and
printing mills,
tanneries and
laundries
External lab
methodology
For Textile· Lubricants for dyeing processes
· Antistatics· Dispersing agents
· Detergents· Silicon based softeners
· Levelling agents · Auxillary products with a high
or dispersing agents
For Leather· Detergents· Fatliquors
· Retanning agents
RTM considers the following CAS numbers as substances to be analyzed: NP (25154-52-3, 84852-15-3; 104-40-5); OP (140-66-9; 1806-26-4; 27193-28-8); NPE (68412-54-4; 26027-38-3; 9016-45-9); OPE (26636-32-8; 9036-19-5; 9002-93-1).
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Annex XIV. Analysis to be Performed in Outsourced Laboratories for PFCs Control of Chemicals
PFCs ANALYSIS
HOW MUCH?WHAT? WHO? WHEN? HOW?
Chemical products
“A”
in “The List”
Dyeing and
printing mills,
tanneries and
laundries
After reception
of the chemical
product at the
mill warehouse
External lab
methodology
· Water Repellents
· Oil Repellents
· Soil Release
No analysis is needed for the current recipe
Chemical products
“C”
in “The List”
Chemical products not
included in “The List”
Use is prohibited in INDITEX productions
No detection of C4-C8
compounds
Detection of C4-C8
compounds
1 analysis of the chemical
product per year
Use is prohibited
in INDITEX productions
RTM considers the following CAS numbers as substances to be analyzed: PFOA (335-67-1); PFOS (1763-23-1); Potassium salt PFOS (2795-39-3); Amide PFOS (754-91-6); PFHxA (307-24-4); PFHxS (355-46-4); 8:2 FTOH (678-39-7); 6:2 FTOH (647-42-7).
Please, note that “The List by INDITEX”
63
Laundry (without dyeing processes)
Annex XV. Summary of In-House Instrumentation According to the Manufacturing Processes Carried Out
No NoNoNoYesNo
pHmeter Shaker Crockmeter Perspirometer BalanceMono
or Multifiber Species
OvenGreyScale
LightBox
Process
YesContinuous dyeing
YesFlat knitted yarn dyeing
or Fabric exhaust dyeing
Yarn dyeing
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
No
No No Yes No No No No
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes Yes Yes Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
No
Yes
No
No
Yes
Yes
No
Yes Yes
Garment dyeing Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
NoPositional printing Yes No No Yes
YesSoluble dyestuffs and
VAT/Disperse continuous printing
Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
YesPigment continuous printing Yes Yes No Yes Yes
No
No
Transfer printing of cellulosic-
Transfer printing of polyester articles
No
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
Yes
No
Yes
Yes
NoTannery No Yes No No Yes
Yes Yes No
SUMMARY OF IN-HOUSE INSTRUMENTATION
Denim fabrics dyeing
Please, note that in case of leather, both crockmeter and the cloth for colour fastness to rubbing are different from textiles.
Light box will not be considered as mandatory but highly recommended.
64
GENERAL INFORMATION
COLOUR FASTNESS ANALYSIS
COLOUR FASTNESS ANALYSIS
TESTED SAMPLE AND SPECIMEN
TESTED SAMPLE AND SPECIMEN
Delivery Note Nº Composition/Leather Type
Quantity (Units/Weight/Length/Area)
Colour Fastness Analysis Results
Colour Fastness Analysis Results
Perspiration
Perspiration
Water
Water
Saliva
Saliva
Dry Rubbing
Dry Rubbing
Wet Rubbing
Wet Rubbing
Responsible
Responsible
Signature
Signature
Sample sent for correlation
(Yes/No)
Sample sent for correlation
(Yes/No)
Article Description
Customer Name
Internal Order Nº
Internal Order Nº
Recipe Nº
Recipe Nº
Date
Date
Nº Dyeing/Printing Lot
or Meters
Nº Dyeing/Printing Lot
or Meters
Annex XVI. In-House Colour Fastness Analysis Template for Production Control
Colour Change
Colour Staining
Colour Change
Colour Staining
Colour Change
Colour Staining
Colour Change
Colour Staining
Colour Change
Colour Staining
Colour Change
Colour Staining
Colour Staining
Colour Staining
Colour Staining
Colour Staining
65
Identification code assigned to the goods sent by the customer once they are received at the facility warehouse.
Description of the article that is being processed (yarn, fabric, trousers, t-shirt, among others).
Description of the fibers and percentages (for textiles) or the type of leather that the article processed is made of.
Total amount of yarn, fabric, leather or garments initially received at the mill warehouse and that posteriorly will be processed in different internal orders.
Code assigned to each processing subset of yarn, fabric, leather or garments from one initial purchase order while they are being processed.
Field reserved for indicating if the sample tested in-house was also sent to an external lab for a correlation study. In case the sample was sent for correlation, test report number should be also included.
Field reserved for the storage of the sample tested and the specimen used in the analysis.
Test to be carried out only for baby articles (0-3 years old).
Identification code of the recipe used in the dyeing, printing or washing process of a specific internal order.
Date when the colour fastness analysis of a specific internal order was performed.
Identification code assigned to a dyeing or printing lot for traceability purposes or number of meters dyed or printed before the colour fastness analysis was conducted.
Name of the person who performed the colour fastness analysis.
Signature of the person in charge of performing the colour fastness analysis.
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Delivery Note Nº
Article Description
Internal OrderNº Recipe Nº Date
Nº Dyeing/Printing Lot
or Meters
Responsible
pH AnalysisSample Sent
for Correlation (Y/N)
Quantity (Units/Weight/Length/Area)
Composition
GENERAL INFORMATION
Result 1 Result 2 Result 3 Final ResultSignature
Customer Name
Annex XVII. In-House pH Analysis Template for Production Control
pH ANALYSIS RESULTS
67
Identification code assigned to the goods sent by the customer once they are received at the facility warehouse.
Description of the article that is being processed (yarn, fabric, trousers, t-shirt, among others).
Description of the fibers and percentages (for textiles) the article processed is made of.
Total amount of yarn, fabric, leather or garments initially received at the mill warehouse and that will be processed afterwards in different internal orders.
Field reserved for indicating if the sample tested in-house was also sent to an external lab for a correlation study. In case the sample was sent for correlation, test report number should be also included.
Code assigned to each processing subset of yarn, fabric, leather or garments from one initial purchase order while they are being processed.
Identification code of the recipe used in the dyeing, printing or washing process of a specific internal order.
Date when the pH analysis of a specific internal order is performed.
Identification code assigned to a dyeing or printing lot for traceability purposes or number of meters dyed or printed before the analysis was conducted.
Person in charge of performing the pH analysis.
Final pH result expressed as the mean of Result 2 and Result 3.
Signature of the person in charge of performing the pH analysis.
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Annex XVIII. Example of a Chemical Supplier Process Evaluation
CTW requirements non compliance risk:
• CTW requirements non compliance related to chemical products provided by the chemical supplier
under study in the last 2 seasons (12 months approximately).
• Matching between the results of the test reports provided by the chemical supplier and the results obtained
directly by the mill.
Information availability in chemical product delivery notes:
• Shipment delivery note number.
• Chemical product manufacturer/distributor name.
• Customer name.
• Chemical product name.
• Delivery date.
• Lot number.
Chemical product identification what implies:
• Chemical product name.
• Chemical manufacturer/distributor name.
• Chemical product lot number.
Chemical products delivery time:
• Reasonable delivery times.
• Delivery times compliance.
• Number of incidences during last 2 seasons (12 months approximately) such as stock breakage, etc.
Technical service:
• Technical service availability.
• Time period between the technical service request and the problem is solved.
• Quality of the technical service received.
• Availability of a laboratory to develop applications, recipes or colour matching.
• Availability of chemical product samples in order to carry out pre-production samples.