R.B.CHAVAN 1

TT 232 N TEXTILE PRINTING3-0-3

R.B.CHAVANDEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

INDIAN INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

HAUZ-KHAS, NEW DELHI

R.B.CHAVAN 2

INTRODUCTIONDIFFERENCE BETWEEN DYEING AND PRINTING

DYEING• UNIFORM COLOURATION ALONG LENGTH AND

WIDTH OF FABRIC

• USUALLY SINGLE COLOUR IS POSSIBLE.

• NO DIFFERENCE IN COLOUR BETWEEN FRONT AND BACK SIDE OF FABRIC

• AQUEOUS DYEING MEDIUM OF LOW VISCOSITY

• DYEING IN BATCHWISE, CONTINUOUS OR SEMI-CONTINUOUS METHOD.

• FABRIC DYEING IN OPEN WIDTH OR ROPE FORM.

• DYEING IN FIBRE, YARN, FABRIC, GARMENT FORM

R.B.CHAVAN 3

PRINTING• LOCALLIZED DYEING

• COLOUR IS APPLIED LOCALLY IN THE FORM OF DESIGN/PATTERN

• LOW VISCOSITY MEDIUM WOULD SPREAD THE COLOUR BY CAPILLARY ACTION, DOES NOT MAINTAIN THE SHARPNESS OF THE DESIGN.

• AQUEOUS MEDIUM OF HIGH VISCOSITY, PREVENT THE COLOUR SPREADING.

• FABRIC PRINTING IN OPEN WIDTH FORM ONLY

• FABRIC PRINTING IS MOST COMMON COMPARED TO YARN AND GARMENT PRINTING, EXCEPTION T-SHIRT PRINTING

R.B.CHAVAN 4

PRINT LIKE EFFECTS• PRINTING

• WEAVING USING COLOURED YARN

• KNITTING USING COLOURED YARN

• APPLIQUE OR PATCH WORK

• EMBROIDERY

R.B.CHAVAN 5

PRINTING STUDYSTYLES OF PRINTING

DIRECT STYLE• PRINTING OF SINGLE OR MULTICOLOURS ON

WHITE OR PALE SHADE DYED FABRICRESIST STYLE• PREVENTION OF COLOUR FIXATION AT THE

PRINTED PORTION• WHITE RESIST: WHITE PRINT AGAINST

COLOURED BACKGROUND• COLOUR RESIST: COLOUR PRINT AGAINST

COLOURE BACKGROUNDDISCHARGE STYLE• DESTRUCTION OF COLOUR AT THE PRINTED

PORTION• WHITE DISCHARGE• COLOUR DISCHARGE

R.B.CHAVAN 6

METHODS OF PRINTING• BLOCK PRINTING

• STENCIL PRINTING

• ROLLER PRINTING

• SCREEN PRINTING• MANUAL SCREEN PRINTING

• AUTOMATIC FLAT BED SCREEN PRINTING

• ROTORY SCREEN PRINTING

• TRANSFER PRINTING

• XEROX PRINTING

• INKJET/DIGITAL PRINTING

• PRINT LIKE EFFECT

• TIE-DYE AND BATIK

R.B.CHAVAN 7

BLOCK PRINTING• OLDEST METHOD

• INDIAN ORIGIN

• STILL PRACTICED IN INDIA

REQUIREMENTS• WOODEN PRINTING BLOCKS• COLOUR FURNISHING TRAY• PRINTING TABLE

R.B.CHAVAN 8

PRINTING BLOCK• MADE OF GOOD QUALITY WOOD

• THICKNESS 3-4 INCHES (7-10 CM)

• MAXIMUM SIZE 12x12 INCHES (30x30 CM)

• DESIGN ON BLOCK IN RELIEF

• BLOCK MAKING : MANUAL, SKILLED BLOCK

MAKERS

R.B.CHAVAN 9

BLOCK MAKING• DESIGN TRACING ON PLAIN BLOCK

SURFACE• MANUAL CARVING OF NON DESIGN

PORTIONS• DEPTH DEPENDS ON NATURE OF DESIGN• METAL WIRE INLAY FOR VERY FINE

OUTLINES• SEPARATE BLOCK FOR EACH COLOUR IN

THE DESIGN• OLD TRADITIONAL METHOD STILL

FOLLOWED• NO NEW TECHNOLOGICAL INPUTS

R.B.CHAVAN 10

PRINTING TABLE• WOODEN TABLE• HEIGHT: 75-100 CM• WIDTH: LARGER THAN THE WIDTH OF THE FABRIC

TO BE PRINTED• LENGTH: DEPENDS ON THE SPACE AVAILABLE. 10

METRES QUITE COMMON

CUSHIONING• RIGID WOODEN SURFACE NOT SUITABLE• RESILIENT SURFACE OBTAINED BY LAYERS OF• FABRIC TO BE PRINTED• COTTON GREY FABRIC• 4-6 LAYERS OF JUTE FABRIC• WOODEN TABLE TOP• ALL FABRIC LAYERS ARE FIXED IN STRETCHED

CONDITION

R.B.CHAVAN 11

COLOUR FURNISHING TRAY

• WOODEN TRAY

• 2-3 LAYERS OF JUTE FABRIC

OR

• SINGLE LAYER OF THICK ABSORBENT POLY URETHANE FOAM

• FINE COTTON FABRIC

R.B.CHAVAN 12

BLOCK PRINTING METHOD• FIXATION OF FABRIC TO BE PRINTED ON

CUSHIONED TABLE• SATURATION OF DESIGN BLOCK WITH

PRINTING PASTE• TRANSFER OF DESIGN ON TO FABRIC BY

SKILLED BLOCK PRINTER

R.B.CHAVAN 13

ADVANTAGES AND LIMITATIONS

ADVANTAGES• SIMPLE METHOD• LOW INVESTMENT

LIMITATIONS• LOW PRODUCTION• INTRICATE DESIGNS NOT POSSIBLE• BLOCK MAKING AND BLOCK PRINTING

SKILLED JOB

R.B.CHAVAN 14

REFERENCE

PRINCIPLE OF COTTON PRINTING

D.G.KALE

R.B.CHAVAN 15

SPRAY PRINTING

• OLD TECHNIQUE ORIGINATED IN JAPAN• USED FOR PRINTING OF SILK SCARFS

PRINCIPLE• SPRAY OF COLOUR ONTO FABRIC THROUGH

STENCIL• STENCIL: THIN METAL PLATE, PLASTIC

SHEET, PAPER• DESIGN CUT IN THE FORM OF STENCIL• METHOD AS IN FIG.

R.B.CHAVAN 16

R.B.CHAVAN 17

MERITS & DEMERITSMERITS• MULTICOLOUR EFFECT POSSIBLE

THROUGH SINGLE STENCIL• TONAL EFFECTS ACCORDING TO SPRAY

DENSITY• SPECKLED (DOT) EFFECT• UNIQUE DESIGNS

DEMERITS• INTRICATE DESIGNS NOT POSSIBLE• DESIGN LIMITATIONS DUE TO PROBLEMS

OF STENCIL CUTTING