Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 43: 27-10-2017 · the stretch side is bi-stretch, which has been...

Rassegna Stam pa Olimpias Set t im ana 43: 27-10-2017

Wabi comunicazione d’impresa



SOMMARI O

Olim pias

Gent ile utente, non ci sono aggiornament i in questa sezione della rassegna stampa

Com pet itor

• L’italiana Miroglio interessata alla AHA Mura Prvi Maj (Serbia)

Settore

• Robot ics in the running • Pablo I sla ( I nditex ) è il m iglior CEO 2017 secondo l’Harvard

Business Review • Bepi Stefanel si dimet te con tut to il CdA • Global yarn and fabric product ion rally in second quarter • New Denim Fiber and Fabric I nnovat ions to I ncrease Jeans’ Appeal • Svolta stor ica: le vendite online bat tono l’offline • Ethiopia aims to become Afr ica's manufactur ing hub



Olim pias

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Com pet itor

L’italiana Miroglio interessata alla AHA Mura Prvi Maj (Serbia)

Posted on 25/10/2017 by Monica Ranieri L’azienda italiana Miroglio ha espresso interesse a prendere in consegna l’azienda tessile

AHA Mura Prvi Maj di Pirot, secondo quanto appreso dal sito Plus Online.

Il sito web, con sede a Pirot, afferma che i rappresentanti di Miroglio si sono recati in visita a Pirot

per esaminare le capacità e le attrezzature tecniche della società tessile. Inoltre, termina oggi la

scadenza per il pagamento di un deposito che conferma l’interesse per l’acquisizione di Prvi Maj.

In precedenza, AHA Mura Prvi Maj era stata offerta per la vendita nell’aprile di quest’anno, e la

Pirot Free Zone era stata l’unica azienda a presentare un’offerta.

Tuttavia, il prezzo offerto di 127 milioni di dinari è stato del 50% inferiore al valore stimato degli

attivi della fabbrica (631 milioni di dinari), quindi il Consiglio dei creditori ha respinto l’offerta.

Il Gruppo Miroglio, fondato nella città italiana di Alba nel 1947, è un’azienda industriale leader che

opera nel settore della moda e tessile su scala mondiale. Opera in 34 paesi e dispone di oltre 1.200

punti vendita.

(Gde Investirati, 24.10.2017)

http://serbianmonitor.com/investire-in-serbia/38799/miroglio-aha-mura-prvi-maj/

http://serbianmonitor.com/author/monran/



Settore



Pablo Isla (Inditex) è il miglior CEO 2017 secondo l’Harvard Business Review Di Edoardo Meliado - 25 Ottobre 2017

Pablo Isla, Presidente e Amministratore Delegato di Inditex, colosso dell’abbigliamento spagnolo che controlla i brand Zara, Pull & Bear, Massimo Dutti, Bershka, Stradivarius, Oysho e Uterqüe, ha scalato la classifica stilata dall’Harvard Business Review, raggiungendo il primo posto tra i CEO più performanti dell’anno.

Pablo Isla, CEO e Presidente del Gruppo Inditex - Europa Press / Inditex

Presenti in classifica anche Bernard Arnault, Presidente e Amminsitratore Delegato di LVMH, che si è posizionato 5°, Mark Parker di Nike, in ottava posizione mentre, il Presidente e CEO di Kering, François-Henri Pinault, è arrivato 23°. Sempre nel settore moda e lusso si annoveranoTadashi Yanai (Fast Retailing) 42°, Blake Nordstrom di Nordstrom 44°, Sergio

http://it.fashionnetwork.com/auteur/Edoardo-Meliado.html

http://media.fashionnetwork.com/m/ce1b/3f47/ca8b/ec30/d5c9/b92d/7270/bbfa/16dd/5683/5683.jpg



Marchionne, Presidente e Amministratore Delegato di FCA e Ferrari è 53° e Leslie Wexner, patron di L Brands, 56°. Isla, CEO di Inditex dal 2005, già l’anno scorso aveva raggiunto il podio piazzandosi tra i primi 3 migliori leader 2016. “L’amministratore ha guidato l’azienda in un'espansione globale che ne ha aumentato il valore di mercato di sette volte, rendendola la più quotata società della Spagna”, ha ricordato in una nota lo staff dall’Harvard Business Review. In questi anni, il retailer spagnolo Inditex, che conta 7.504 store in 94 Paesi con oltre 162.000 dipendenti, si è distinto per aver migliorato il processo d’acquisto dei consumatori, con una migliore integrazione tra negozi fisici e online. Altra scelta vincente, il sistema di "prossimità di sourcing", grazie al quale oltre il 50% del processo produttivo si svolge “in casa”, consentendo di tenere basse scorte di magazzino e di riuscire ad inseguire le nuove tendenze più velocemente di altri player del settore. Il ranking prende in considerazione, oltre al fattore finanziario, in base al quale Isla risulterebbe solo 18esimo, anche e soprattutto la performance dell’azienda su fattori ambientali, sociali e di governo. “Trasparenza di Inditex nella gestione, monitoraggio e controllo della propria catena di approvvigionamento hanno assicurato al leader il primo posto”, si legge sempre nella nota.



Global yarn and fabric production rally in second quarter

Written by Haydn Davis Published: 20 October 2017

Zurich - Global fabric production increased in the second quarter of 2017 with output in Asia, Africa, and Brazil improving whilst remaining stable in the USA and Europe.

Production improved by almost 9% across the quarter, with the most significant increase in Brazil, Asia, and Africa (10.4%, 9.8%, 9.2% respectively). The situation also improved compared to Q2/2016 with an increase of global fabric output of almost 4%.

The global yarn production improved in the second quarter of 2017, with growth in Asia, Europe and Brazil offsetting a slight decline in the USA.

The combined effect brought the global yarn production to a level slightly higher than it was in Q2/16.



Specifically yarn production was up by 11%, a lower rate of growth compared to the last quarter. The drivers of the Q2/17 growth level were Asia and Brazil with their respective 12% and 11% increases. Yarn production decreased 10% in the USA and 18% in Africa compared to the first quarter of the year.

Global yarn stocks decreased by 1% in Q2/17. Asia, Europe, and Brazil saw their yarn inventories increased by 0,7%, 2.3%, and 11.5% but the world average is driven down by a 12% decrease of yarn stocks in Egypt. The stocks improvement of 13% in comparison to Q2/16 is a composite effect of relatively slight variations in Europe and Asia (-3% and +10%), a sharp decrease of nearly 40% in Brazil, and a strong increase of 112% in Egypt.

In Q2/17, European yarn orders decreased by almost 7%. Reductions of 6% and 4% were recorded in Brazil and Asia, respectively. Compared to Q2/16, yarn orders in Europe were stable. They decreased in Brazil and Asia by 17% and 14%, respectively.

In Q2/17, worldwide fabric stocks slightly increased, by 3.3%, with the most significant change observed in Brazil, an increase of 23%, for the second quarter in a row. The fabric stocks, however, haven’t reached their Q2/16 level yet.

The 9% increase in global fabric orders in Q2/17 is driven by Brazil and Egypt (+13% and +16% respectively). During the quarter, fabric orders have been stable in Asia and slightly decreased in Europe. They, however, show a relatively strong decrease with respect to the same quarter a year before (21%). This is mainly due to falling orders in Brazil and Asia (-27% and -17%).

The ITMF also noted that global yarn and fabric production are expected to stay stable in Q3/17 and increase in Q4/17.



New Denim Fiber and Fabric Innovations to Increase Jeans’ Appeal by Arthur Friedman

Posted on October 26, 2017 in Feature, Raw Materials

While denim is certainly a staple wardrobe choice that crosses generations, fiber and fabric firms aren’t taking any chances in letting it fall out of favor. Instead, they are stepping up the innovation quotient and expanding denim’s capabilities and appeal.

Using fresh technologies beyond traditional stretch, denim can now cross over from casual wear and workwear to athleisure and activewear, while generally adding comfort, texture and performance characteristics to the fabric and finished product.

Jean Hegedus, global segment director for denim at Invista, said, “One of the hottest things right now on the stretch side is bi-stretch, which has been around awhile. But we’ve been working with a number of mill partners to develop new ways of executing bi-stretch that makes a better product for the consumer and a lot easier for the mill to handle.” Hegedus explained that, traditionally, mills have used bi-stretch as a replacement for Lycra by putting it in the warp and the weft. Now with Dual FX technology, several mills are replacing Lycra with Dual FX in the warp and weft. “The advantage is it gives you better stability, it’s easier to work with and had less warp shrinkage,” she said.

Turkish mill Calik Denim has come out with a line called Circular 100 that uses Dual FX in both directions, which gives a softer hand and lighter weight.

https://sourcingjournalonline.com/category/raw-materials/feature-raw-materials/

https://sourcingjournalonline.com/category/raw-materials/

https://sourcingjournalonline.com/invista-to-deploy-next-gen-adn-technology-for-nylon-at-french-joint-venture/



“High-waist denim is very much in vogue right now, but one of the difficulties is when people sit down, it isn’t always comfortable,” Hegedus added. “Having the extra stretch in the warp direction helps make that a much more comfortable proposition.”

Pakistan-based mill U.S. Denim has created a collection using bi-stretch Dual FX selvedge denim, which leads to a “modern take on vintage,” Hegedus remarked.

Invista also has a new fabric weaving technology it developed to make bi-stretch “double beam” fabric. It uses two parallel warps—one of cotton indigo yarn and other Lycra-covered yarn that gets buried on the inside of the product. The result is low growth, easy to control warp shrinkage and can be used with a variety of fibers to create specialized fabrics. It requires a double- weaving setup and Invista is working with China’s Advance Denim on the first offerings.

In other denim specialized materials, Invista’s Coolmax is gaining popularity as a summer jean, while Tough Max continues to grow, especially in children’s wear.

Also at Invista, Cindy McNaull, global Cordura brand and marketing director, said she’s calling the company’s next step in denim, “Cordura Authentic Alchemie 2.0.” Former Nike innovation director Linda Keppinger has been brought in to help put together some emerging macro consumer trends in the sector. “We’re then taking these trends and personifying them through the world of Cordura denim,” McNaull said. This is being done with Cordura’s global mill partners—Arvin, Artistic Milliner, Cone Denim, Advance Denim and Kipas—which helped Cordura put together a three-part trend pack called, “Imagination Without Limitation.”

The first group, “Make it for Me,” is built around the notion of self-expression, authenticity and customized looks. Styles include garment wash denim or fabric with a special finish, lightweight but with strength. “Show Me You Care” echoes ecological consumers’ concerns and awareness of natural resources. It involves a partnership with Lenzing’s Tencel lyocell fiber and some testing being done with Lenzing’s recycled Refibra fiber. “Faster and Farther” is all about innovation and people being able to do more with their denim.

“It’s really an extension of our Cordura Durability line that we’re calling Cordura Durability Plus,” McNaull said. “Its performance fabric that’s built to last–keep me warm, keep my dry, keep me cool, with freedom of movement and abrasion resistance.”

Tricia Carey, director of business development for denim at Lenzing Fibers, said she’s taking a multifaceted approach to expanding the fiber company’s reach in the sector. It primarily involves going deeper into the Tencel brand’s reach into denim, while also making inroads with Lenzing’s modal fiber.

https://sourcingjournalonline.com/cordura-teams-sudwolle-new-durable-blended-fabrics/



In the area of knit denim, Tencel is teaming with Santoni Knits for a collection of seamless knits. “Denim is a versatile partner to pair with anything and is a must-have in every season,” said Carey. “In an age where new innovations and interpretations drive the denim category, there is always something that emerges as a new way forward and Den/im 2.0 is presenting itself as that new evolution.”

Each knitted garment in the collection incorporates fiber combinations and knitted structures to create a cross-over concept. Traditional sportswear, made with the cut-and-sew concept from one material and one fabric structure, has a limited ability to provide sufficient local wear comfort. But the seamless functional features can incorporate superior moisture wicking by incorporating Tencel in a two-layer construction, while inclusion of high performance yarns provide superior temperature regulation, Carey noted.

The collection is done in collaboration with garment finishing firm Tonello and the Spanish mill Unitin.

At Kingpins Amsterdam, Lenzing featured denim using its new Refibra recycled denim line, a collaboration with eight denim mills and designer Adriano Goldschmied. Meanwhile, Lenzing’s Modal Black line will introduce Modal Black Plus, using solution-dyed Modal Black fiber and Cone Denim’s Repreve Black dope-dyed fabric. The processes allow for a strong sustainability offering that saves water and energy and uses natural and recycled synthetic materials.

Hyosung’s answer to specialized denim is Creora Fit2, a four-way stretch denim fabric with Creora Eco-soft in the warp and Creora spandex in the fill direction. Sponge-like in touch with strong drapability, this new generation fiber allows for denim to be smoother and able to be sculpted.

Additional iterations use high tenacity yarns to deliver a robust finish to denim, while personal well-being is enhanced by moisture management and antibacterial synthetic yarns or through performance finishing.

Hyosung has partnered with Bossa to introduce Xplay a new collection of bi-stretch denim with Creora Fit2 at Denim Premiere Vision.

“Creora Fit2 has allowed us to create the Xplay bi-stretch collection for the most flattering yet comfortable fitting denim,” said Müge Tunceren, product development and marketing manager of Bossa, one of Turkey’s largest integrated textile companies. “We are targeting brands and retailers who want to enhance consumer loyalty through better fit and superior comfort.”

Creora Fit2 is a proprietary technology using a Creora yarn for 360 degree stretch.



“We developed Creora Fit2 four-way stretch to meet consumer’s needs, looking for better fit and silhouette,” said David Jang, Creora marketing manager for denim “We partnered with Bossa to develop next generation of denim as consumers will realize its value as soon as they start wearing it.”

Denim is among the markets that nylon manufacturer and marketer Nilit is targeting with its new Sensil premium nylon 6.6 brand for apparel. Nilit presented Sensil at the Keyhouse/Bluezone trade show in September, focusing on how naturally it blends with cotton to create modern denim styles that are fashionable while also having the performance capabilities to keep up with consumers’ busy lifestyles.

Sensil performance products give fabric designers many options to infuse denim with valuable attributes that consumers require in contemporary jeanswear. The company’s performance yarns are enhanced to provide additional attributes that consumers desire in today’s advanced denim products. Sensil Breeze imbues denim with a cooling effect for enhanced comfort. Sensil Body Fresh protects against the odors microbes can cause, which means busy consumers don’t have to wash their jeans as often. Sensil Heat warms on cool days, while Sensil Aquarius stays dry on warm days, and Sensil Innergy helps energize cells and reduce the appearance of cellulite.

“Consumers are raising their expectations for denim just as they are for everything else that they buy,” said Pierluigi Berardi, Nilit’s global marketing director. “Cutting edge jeans wear requires cutting edge fiber technology like Sensil premium Nylon 6.6 performance yarns. Together with our supply chain partners, Sensil creates fabrics that are the smart choice for denim brands that want to effectively respond to these shifting consumer attitudes about clothing and shopping.”



Svolta storica: le vendite online battono l’offline 25 OTTOBRE 2017

Durante la prossima holiday season, i consumatori americani destineranno, per la prima volta, la

maggior parte del proprio budget agli acquisti online. In particolare, il 51% verrà speso su Internet,

mentre il 42% all’interno degli store fisici, contro l’ex aequo al 47% dello scorso anno (c’è poi una

quota che ricomprende “catalogo, direct mail e altro”). A riportarlo è il “2017 Holiday Retail

Survey” di Deloitte, che ha svolto l’indagine prendendo in considerazione oltre 5.000 consumatori

americani. In particolare, più il consumatore è giovane, più la parte di budget totale destinata alla

spesa online è alta. Questa, infatti, è pari al 61% per la generazione z, al 58% per i millennials, al

48% per i baby boomers e così via. Il 55% degli intervistati ha inoltre dichiarato che, molto

probabilmente, comprerà i propri regali online, contro il 44% che si recherà nei centri commerciali.

Seguono, poi, i department store a quota 28%, in calo del 3% rispetto lo scorso anno. Dato, questo,

che fa da ulteriore cartina tornasole all’apocalisse che sta colpendo questa categoria in America.

Non solo, tra coloro che useranno lo smartphone durante le festività, il 22% si aspetta di effettuare

transazioni all’interno dei negozi tramite l’utilizzo di un’applicazione di mobile wallet.

Per quanto riguarda lo scontrino medio, quello per i regali sarà in linea con lo scorso anno a quota

430 dollari per circa 15 regali. Per quanto riguarda le spese complessive, invece, lo scontrino sale a

1.226 dollari.

http://www.pambianconews.com/2017/06/26/retail-usa-nuova-ondata-di-chiusure-217457/



Ethiopia aims to become Africa's manufacturing hub Source: Xinhua| 2017-10-24 03:29:27| Editor: Zhou Xin

ADDIS ABABA, Oct. 23 (Xinhua) -- In its drive to realize its ambition of becoming the manufacturing hub of the African continent, Ethiopia will inaugurate four industrial parks during the current Ethiopian 2017/2018 fiscal year. According to the Ethiopian Investment Commission (EIC), two industrial parks will be inaugurated during the next month, one in Adama city, some 99 km from the capital Addis Ababa, and the other in Dire Dawa city, Ethiopia's second largest city in the eastern part of the country. Two other industrial parks in Kilinito and Bole Lemi-II, both located at the outskirts of the capital Addis Ababa, are also scheduled to be inaugurated in February 2018. Except the Kilinto industrial park, which is specialized in pharmaceuticals, the other three are under construction to attract local and foreign investors in Ethiopia's textile and apparel productions sector. According to Belachew Mekuria, Deputy EIC Commissioner, as the construction of the four industrial parks expected to be finalized in just a one year timeframe, the east African country anticipates the ever growing number of industrial parks would accelerate the country's ambition to become the African continent's powerhouse in the manufacturing sector. The Ethiopian government has planned to construct some 15 industrial parks during the second five-year Growth and Transformation Plan (GTP-II) period, due effective from 2015 to 2020. The east African country has also budgeted more than 1 billion U.S. dollars for the construction of industrial parks during the reported period. According to Sisay Gemechu, CEO of the Ethiopian Industrial parks Development Corporation, the east African country, is creating conducive



environment for both local and foreign companies and better employment opportunities through its industrial parks development strategy. "The aim of industrial parks is to create conducive environment for Ethiopian industrial development strategy in GTP-II as well, and the role of particular this corporation is to develop a number of industrial parks in a different part of regions in sector based. As of know we have fifteen plus industrial parks either operational or under construction," Gemechu said. In addition to the parks that will be inaugurated during the current fiscal year, industrial parks construction projects are underway in Debre Birhan, Ararti and Bahir Dar by the Ethiopian government. The private sector also makes its contribution in the development of industrial parks in Ethiopia, which includes the Chinese Huajian and Eastern industry zones. The parks, among other things, incorporates physical infrastructures such as roads, electricity, and water provisions as well as facilities that would provide one-stop services so as to ensure provision of multiple government services to companies within the parks' premises. With regards to the two industrial parks that are scheduled to be functional as of next month, the Ethiopian government expects the 315 million U.S. dollars worth industrial zones in Adama and Dire Dawa cities will contribute to the facilitation of foreign trade for the country due to their relative proximity to the Port of Djibouti, which is Ethiopia's major import and export outlet. Ethiopia, Africa's second most populous nation with a population stood at 102.4 million in 2016, also considers industrial parks development as its prime target to create job opportunity to its burgeoning younger population. According to the EIC, around 19 factories that can produce textile products are already constructed inside the Adama industry zone with ambitions to create job opportunities for more than 15,000 Ethiopians directly and for over 15,000 peoples indirectly. The Dire Dawa Industrial Park also aimed at creating job opportunities for over 10,000 people in a single shift. Built by China Civil Engineering Corporation (CCECC), the Hawassa industrial park, located in Ethiopia's southern city of Hawassa, some 275 km south of the capital Addis Ababa, is Ethiopia's flagship industrial zone that was initially completed in a record time of nine months period.

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