RapidBot 3.0 3D Printer - PrintrBoard | 3D Printer | … · If you have any queries or requests...
Transcript of RapidBot 3.0 3D Printer - PrintrBoard | 3D Printer | … · If you have any queries or requests...
MAKE MENDEL
RapidBot
RapidBot 3.0 is a latest generation 3D printer, capable of printing 3D objects
RapidBot 3.0 uses high quality Linear motion guides. So it is very easy to build. Self
ensures rigid frame with easy steps(Without need of any measurements, during building)
Any person can easily build it by following our Manual.
If you have any queries or requests related to RapidBot 3.0 3D Printer, Kindly drop a mail at :
[email protected], Our team will be ready to help you, and
RapidBot 3.0 3D Printer
RapidBot 3.0 is a latest generation 3D printer, capable of printing 3D objects of PLA plastic.
RapidBot 3.0 uses high quality Linear motion guides. So it is very easy to build. Self locking design
ensures rigid frame with easy steps(Without need of any measurements, during building)
Any person can easily build it by following our Manual.
If you have any queries or requests related to RapidBot 3.0 3D Printer, Kindly drop a mail at :
, Our team will be ready to help you, and to answer your querries.
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plastic.
locking design
ensures rigid frame with easy steps(Without need of any measurements, during building)
If you have any queries or requests related to RapidBot 3.0 3D Printer, Kindly drop a mail at :
answer your querries.
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Technical Specification :
• Machine size 400 x 200 x 320 mm
• Build size 220 x 220 x 165 mm
• Nozzle Diameter : 0.4mm
• Layer Thickness : 0.1mm
• Speed : 60 mm/s
• Positioning Precision : 27 microns
• Input Format : STL
• Software : Pronterface (Available on site for free under Download section)
•System Compatibility : Windows 7 and Vista
• Power Supply : ATX, 450W
• Weight (Kg) : 12
Features :
1) It uses high quality linear motion guides.
2) Compact Design.
3) Printrboard and Power Supply are adjusted at the bottom to give clean and neat look.
4) Mechanically more Stable Design
5) Improved the Printrbed Adjustment.
6) Very easy to build, just 6 hours.
7) Accurate and easy belt placement.
8) Large build volume with easy accesibility.
9) Uses high quality acrylic from http://www.perspex.co.uk
10) Integrated power supply for both Printrboard and Heatbed.
11) Uses high quality aluminium pulley with T2.5 belts, to give high accuracy.
12) Self locking design ensures rigid frame with easy steps(Without need of any
measurements, during building).
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Part List For RapidBot3.0-Acrylic Sheets
Qty Part Drawing
2 Side Plates
1 Middle Plate
1 Front Plate
1 Back Plate
1 Top Plate
1 Y Kite support
1 Y-Support Plate
1 Heated Print Bed
1 Aupport Plate for PCB Heatbed
1 Extruder Base
1 Extruder Motor Plate
1 Driven Holder
1 Idler Holder
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1 Y-Rail Top Plate
1
Y-Belt holder
2 Smooth Rod Cap
2 Cap screw for smooth rod
1 Acrylic support for Z Mechanical switch
2 X and Y Belts(GT2-700 mm)
1 Brass Insert piece
Hardware
Qty Part Drawing
17 M3 Nylock Nut
40 M4 Nylock Nut
10 M2.5 Nut – & Screw Philips
4 M3 X 8 Philips Screw
22 M3 x 12 Socket Cap Screw
5 M3 x 15 Socket Cap Screw
17 M3 x 20 Socket Cap screw
4 M3 x 25 Counter Sink Cap Screw
14 M4 x 20 Socket Cap screw
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19 M4 x 25 Socket Cap Screw
2 M4 x 25 Counter sink Cap Screw
2 M4 x 40 Socket Cap Screw
6 Screw for SMPS mounting
4 M2.5x20 Mechanical switch screw
&nut x & y switch for use
2 M2.5x25 Mechanical switch for z aliment
90 M3 Washer
70 M4 Washer
2 M4x10 Washer for mechanical switch
7 624-Bearing
2 Flange nut
2 Flange bearing
2 Coupling 5 _8
2 Soft Spring (1)(Extruder 2-Opto)
Hard spring (2)
1 Heat sink Paste
1 Dummy Rails
1 Forceps
1 FeviQuick
1 Plastic Tie
2 Linear Motion(LM) Guide
Hotend and Electronics
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Quantity Part Drawing
5 Stepper Motors-NEMA 17
2 GT2 Timing Pulley_5mmBore (For X-Y
Motor) 1 J HotEnd Extruder
3 Heater Blocks and Extra wire with
Power Connector
1 PTFE Strain Relief
1 Printrboard REV D Electronics
Board
3 Mechanical switch with 3 pin Molex
Connector
1 Z Prusa Cable
1 Resistor (3 watt 6.8 Ohm)
1 Thermistor G550 EPCOS
2 Teflon sleeve
2 4 pin and 2 pin Teflon Molex
connector
1 Cooling Fan 60 x 60
1 USB Printer cable
1 Universal Travel Adaptor
1 Mini SMPS
2 Kapton Tapes (50mm + 15mm)
1 Magnetic Leveler
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1 10m sample PLA
1 M8 Threaded Rod-285mm 2 M8 Threaded Rod of Spool Holder-
125mm
2 Smooth Rod-292mm
M2.5 Details
1
M2.5 Philips
Countersink Belts &
nuts(10)
Heated Print Bed (10)
2
M2.5x20 philips
Countersink
screw(4)
X & Y mechanical switch
3
M2.5x25
Countersink
screw(2)
Z mechanical switch
aliment
M3 Details
1 M3 Nylock(43) LMG Rail (26)
Idler Excle (1)
Flange Bearing (8)
Flange Nut (8)
2 M3x8 Philips
Countersink (4) Extruder base Plate (4)
3 M3 X 12 Socket Cap
(21)
Motor (X,Y,Z) (17) SMPS(4)
4 M3x15 Socket Cap
(35)
LMG Rail (22) fitting
item Extruder Motor (3)
5 M3 X 20 Socket Cap
(21)
Flange Nut (8)
LNG Rail Fitting (4) 623 Ugra Bearing (1)
Flange Bearing (8)
6 M3 x 25 Socket
Counter Sink Cap (4) Print Bed (4)
7 M3 Nut (8) LMG (2 at each end)
fitting (8)
8 M3 Washer (90) LMG Rail (26) Flange Bearing (16) X-Y-Z Motor (16)
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SMPS (4) Flange Nut(16) Extruder Motor Plate (8)
M4 Details
1 M4 Nylock Nut (40
Smooth Rod Cap (8) Acrylic Side Fitting (26) Bed Adjustment (2)
Acrylic Base Plate Fitting
(2) Z- Opto (1)
2 M4 x 20 Socket
Cap (14)
Acrylic Support (12) Acrylic Base Plate (2)
3 M4x25 Counter
Sink (2)
294 mm Smooth Rod
Cap (6)
4 M4 X 25 Socket cap
(19) 300 mm Smooth Rod(6)
Acrylic Support(13)
5 M4 X 40 Socket cap
(2) Belt Adjustment X,Y (2)
6 M4 X 20 Mudguard
Washer (4) Belt Adjustment (4)
7 M4 Washer (80) Main Structure Panel
(50) 624 Bearing Belt (11)
Extruder Motor Support
Plate (4)
Smooth Rod Cap (14)
Other Parts
1 624 Bearing (7) X, Y Adjusting Belt (7)
2 623 Bearing (1) Extruder Idler Holder
Part (1)
3 608 Bearing (2)
PLA Spool Holder (2)
4 M8 Nuts (12) PLA Spool Holder
(8)
5 M6 Brass Nut (2) Extruder (2)
6 Flange Nut (2) Y Plate Threaded Rod
7 Flange Bearing (2) Y Plate Smooth Rod
8 Smooth Rod Cap (4)
Smooth Rod Cap (4)
[Top Plate
Bottom Plate]
NOTE:
• Dummy Rails: Dummy rails are given for maintenance purpose, if you will need in future. Be
careful while removing the LM block from the Rail. Put dummy rail on block before removing it.
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• 4 pin Molex Connector: We give one extra.
• Cooling Fan: Cooling Fan are needed for ABS , If you are using PLA there is no need of Cooling
fan
• Hotend: We provide are pre-solder Hotend
• End Stops: When you press Print button, basically all 3 axis move to its HOME position. HOME
position is detected by Mechanical Switch. When switch is pressed, then printer understands
that, it has reached its home.
So there are 3 mechanical switch, 1 for each axis(X,Y,Z).
So, there is a Z Flag, which should go into the Z Optical switch, If z switch is moved during
shipping, then adjust it, so that it is pressed when nozzle is around 0.2 mm distance from
PrintBed..
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Step1 – Frame Assembly
Side Plates: Front Plate:
Back Plate : XPlate
Frame Structure after assembling with Screws :
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1) Insert 2 Side plates, in Slots of Front and Back plate, Then connect the structure using M4x20 Cap screw
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STEP 2 – Assemble Y-Plate :
1) Attach 2 Z and 1Y motor to Y-Plate using M3x12 cap screw
2) Attach the Circuit at the bottom of the Y-Plate, using Plastic Ties
Bottom View of Y Frame:
Coupling
3) Rail is already attached by our assembling engineers.
4) Attach Mechanical switch using M2.5x20 screw
5) Attach Belt Adjuster(Set of 3x624 Bearings)
6) Attach 2 Couplings to the Motor
7) Attach 2 Smooth rod caps
Now put the Y-Plate inside the Frame(Created in Step1)
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STEP 3 : Z Mechanical Switch Assembly :
1) Using Acrylic part and Screws given place the mechanical switch Under X Motor, Behind
Threaded rod On Left side of the machine.
2) Assemble M4 Nylock, M4x40 Screw, Soft Spring, Washer and place above the Mechanical
switch to limit the switch.
Mechanical
Switch
To Limit the
Mechanical Switch
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STEP 4: Assembly of X Plate
Bottom Side:
1) First attach 2 Linear bearing to the X-Plate using M3x20 Cap Screw.
2) Attach 2 Flange nuts to the X-Plate using M3x20 Cap Screw.
3) Attach the X-Motor to X-Plate using M3x12 Cap Screw
Flange Nut Flange Bearing
Upper Side:
Mechanical Switch Rail Block Linear Motion Guide
4) Rail is already pre-attached by our assembling team.
5) Attach the Mechanical switch using M2.5x20
6) Attach the Belt Adjuster(Set of 4x624 Bearings) as shown below
Assemble a set of 624 Bearings, M4x40 Socket, Mudguard, M4 washer , and M4 Nylock nut.
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Attaching belt to the ExtruderBase Plate
1) Take the ExtruderBase Plate, apply some glue on side face (this is not must), then just use
Plastic ties to tie it.
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2) Attach the Extruder base plate on the Rail Block
3) Pass the GT2 belt through the Pulley and BeltAdjuster.
M4x20
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Step5 : Assembly of Rods :
Put the 2Threaded rod inside the FlangeNut.
Place X-Axis inside the structure, by putting the bottom of the Threaded Rod inside the
Couplings.
Put the smooth rod inside the Flange Bearings.
Flange Bearing
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Back side of machine after assembling X and Y Plate :
Z MOTOR SHOULD BE PLACED AS SHOWN IN ABOVE IMAGE
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STEP 6 – PRINTBED ASSEMBLY
Part Name Image Quantity
Print Bed
1
Heater Block
4
M2.5*10 Philips screw with nut 10
M3*25 Countersink cap screw
4
PTFE strain Relief
3
1) Place Four heater Block at back of Aluminum Printbed with the help of M2.5x10
Phillips Screw with nut, Cables given.
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2) Place the Thermistor on Printbed with the help of kapton tape. Other end of
thermistor(2 Pin Molex connector) is connected to the printrboard. For printrboard
connection refer Image on page 28
3) Tie the wires at the corner of the PrintBed using the 2 small Pieces of PTFE, and
M2.5x10 philip screws.
Two Acrylic pieces are provided with the Kit.
4) Apply Fewiquick(Glue provided with the Kit), to the side face of the larger acrylic
piece. Tighten the GT2 belt to Larger Acrylic piece with ties.
5) Put the Larger acrylic Piece on RailBlock.
6) Put the smaller acrylic piece on top of Larger piece.
7) Put the PTFE(acts as insulator) sheet on top of smaller acrylic piece.
8) Put the Aluminium PrintBed on top of The PTFE. And attach all of them using
M3x25 Countersink screws.
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9) Place the Printbed over the larger acrylic cutting.
Instructions:
For bed, Connect the 4 Pin and 2 Pin connector to printrboard
Small Acrylic Piece
Larger Acrylic Piece GT2 Belt
Rail
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STEP 7 : TOP ASSEMBLY :
1) Attach the Top place to the Side Frame using M4x25 Cap screws
2) Attach the smooth rod caps using M4x25 cap screws
M4 x 25 Screws Cap Screws
4Pin Connector
2 Pin Connector
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STEP 8 –J-HOTEND SOLDERING:
We have already, given you pre-soldered Hotend with the Kit. So you do not need to do
below steps.
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1) Thermistor with Kapton tape and Teflon sleeve
2) Teflon Wire with 4 Pin Molex connector
• Solder the yellow and grey wire to resistor
• Solder the brown and black wire to thermistor
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3) Use the silicon glue to fill the gap between resistor and brass block of hotend.
4) Final Assembling of J head hotend Extruder.
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Note: Set Extuder Temperature to 185 Degree, allow it to heat up to 180 degree then
only hit “Extrude” Button on Pronterface software. This will avoid clogging in Hotend
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Index for Picture 1.1
Part
Number
Name of Part
1 Back Plate
2 Aupport Plate for PCB Heatbed
3 Acrylic piece use in Printbed assembly
4 Top Plate
5 Cap Screw for smooth rod
6 Cap Screw for smooth rod
7 X Plate
8 Y Plate
9 Cap screw for smooth rod
10 Cap screw for smooth rod
11 Extruder base Plate
12 Fan Support Piece
13 Fan Support Piece
14 Side Plate Left
15 Side Plate Right
16 Front Plate
17 Y-Belt holder
18 Support for Y Plate
19 Z-mechanical switch
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STEP 9: Electrical wiring (Printrboard)
Place PrintrBoard on Acrylic Board with Cap Screw M3x12
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Connect the cables as shown above.
Steps to be followed while using Printrboard Electronics:
1. Check whether all the connections made on your Printrboard Board are proper.
2. Printrboard comes ready to print with Marlin RC 2 Firmware and LUFA CDC
BootLoader, So you do not need to change any firmware, if you have purchased entire
Rapidbot/Orca Kit from us.
3. Install Pronterface (With Slic3r) http://makemendel.com/support-1/downloads
4. Set Baud rate as 250000
5. Note: You have to connect the Hotend thermister to PrintrBoard, then this “Min
Temprature triggered” error will go away.
6. Remove the Boot Loader(Black) Jumper from the printrBoard, before connecting it to
the PC. The jumper is only needed only during the firmware update