Cleanliness and Hygiene: The cage will need cleaning out fairly regularly. A routinecleaner for all nonporous surfaces would be Vetaclean, followed by a very thorough

rinse. All other materials should be replaced when soiled. As far as humanhygiene is concerned, Vetasept Surgical Scrub will clean hands and surfaces while

Vetasept Hand Rub will allow adequate cleansing and disinfection even incases when water is unavailable. No cleaner or disinfectant, however

dilute, must come into contact with the frog. The exception isVetadine which can be used to give any first aid the frogs may

be need by dabbing the wound with a drop of theliquid.

Small toMedium Tree

FrogsAn Introductory

Information Leaflet

from

Europe's PremierReptile Product Company

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Ventilated roof

Basking Spot Lamp

Fluorescent lamp

Curio wood branch

Heat mat

Repti-Vine

Cork bark hide

Repti-rock dish

Rain Forest Substrate

A cage suitable forsmall to medium

tree frogs

EURO REPEURO REPL I M I T E D

African Bull Frog(Pyxicephalus adspersus)

Chilean Helmeted Bull Frog(Caudiverbera caudiverbra)

Cage Decor: Use Rain Forest Substrate asit will stand up to the periodic sprayingwith water frogs need. A large Repti-rockwater dish could be used to provide abath. Cork bark and Curio wood couldbe used to make an interesting threedimensional display. While drapingRepti-Vines in the cage will providerefuges under which the frogs can hide.Repti-rock caves would lend even morefunctionality and security.

No. 10. Optional Hot Spot Alocal area of higher tempera-

ture may be created, if needed,with a Basking Spot Lamp. The SpotLamp should be used in conjunction

with a HabiStat Dimming thermostat forprecise control. Hot spots should be

maintained for the same day length asthe lights, fourteen in summer, ten

in winter. Small cages willnot need a hot spot.

Food:Crickets,

Locusts andMealworms of an

appropriate size. Supplementlivefoods by feeding Cricket Diet

Plus or Mealworm Diet Plus. As an occasional treat waxmoth larvae may be offered butcare must be taken not to overfeed this addictive food. Tiny frogs like juveniles and the

smallest species will eat the non flying fruit fly strains that are now commonly available.

Background HeatUse a HabiStat heat mat

between half and two thirds thesize of the cage to provide back-

ground heating. The hottest spot inthe cage should not be above 30ºC

while the coolest should not be below15ºC. Use a HabiStat Mat-Stat if the

temperature is too hot but put thewhole cage in a cooler place if

the temperature is notcool enough.

Lighting Unlikemany frogs, treefrogs

usually appreciatesunlight. The cage shouldhave a fluorescent light,

preferably a full spectrum typelike a Reptile D

3 lamp. They

may also like a small BaskingSpot Lamp to warm themselves.

Natural daylight may beenough, however, but asmall cage must not be

exposed to directsunlight in case it

overheats.

Cage Set Up Thecage should be set up to

allow an active frog plenty ofscope to climb, burrow, warm in a

hot spot, move to a cooler placeand hunt for food. The frogsshould also be able to secretethemselves into refuges and

soak in fresh water ifthey choose.

Small to Medium Tree Frogs�

Frogs and Toads are amphibians and the small to medium species that arecommonly kept as pets and referred to as tree frogs include:

Tree Frogs Hyla spp.Marsupial Frogs Gastrotheca spp.

Hyperolius spp.,�HousingThe permanent cage need not be large, a 35cm x 15cm x 25cm being asuitable size for two animals with a body length of 5 cm each. Smaller,more active species prefer proportionately larger enclosures to those thatare more sedate in their ways. The cage size should reflect the size andtemperament of the individuals being kept. Many types of cage can beused to house frogs. For juveniles and other small individuals, themoulded clear plastic tanks with fitted lids are very useful. For biggeranimals, a purpose made vivarium is probably most appropriate. Thetypes with sliding glass doors to the front are very popular. Anotheroften used cage is a converted aquarium. A special adapting lid is used tocontain the amphibians and house any equipment that may be used.

Whatever the type of cage used, it must be kept scrupulously clean. Thecage should be set up in a manner similar to the diagram overleaf. Aheater may be installed to provide a background temperature of between15ºC and 25ºC. This is best done with a HabiStat heat mat or striptaped to the inside of the back wall of a wooden cage but on either side ifit is made of glass or plastic. Make sure the mat acts like a radiator, so verylittle of it should be below the line of the substrate. A local hot spot of30ºC may be added as an optional extra. In which case, a Dinosaur FossilHot Rock or a HabiStat controlled Basking Spot Lamp would provideheat for smaller and larger cages respectively. The hot spot should warman area in front of the heat mat. The coolest part of the cage should benearer 15ºC. All heat sources should be comparatively low powered toprotect the animals from being burnt. The hot spot, if present, shouldonly operate during the day for about fourteen hours in summer drop-ping to twelve in winter.

Much of the success achieved in keeping frogs will come from the skilfulmanipulation of ventilation. Some of these animals require very highhumidity, while others like it a little dryer but none can stand stagnantair conditions. Fresh air moving into the cage is essential. Use the upwarddraughts caused by heated air rising to flush out the cage and drag freshair in. A light daily misting with a hand sprayer will provide most of thehumidity required. Some species will require the substrate to be dampbut not wringing wet. Look in the literature for details of the particularspecies being kept.

�HusbandryMost species are best kept in groups of the same species. Some may evenbe kept in community set ups containing different species. Be carefulwhen mixing frogs as some species may be cannibalistic and will tackleanother frog. Most frogs will swallow anything live if it moves withinstriking distance and is of a size that is similar to prey animals.

These animals do not really like being handled, so if it is necessary tomove them, scoop them into a container like a bowl and move them inthis. Be prepared, however, for the animal to attempt an escape by jump-ing. Use a hand as a lid to restrain the frog in case of mishap. In time thecage will begin to look scruffy and as soon as any faeces or debris appearsit should be removed. As everything recommended for the cage is wash-

Shopping List

Not every thing is needed to begin with, usually one itemfrom each of the categories marked �. As a basic starting pointthe following essentials are considered the minimum needed:

Plastic CageHeat Mat

Rain Forest SubstrateRepti-rock dish

ThermometerRepti-Vine

Piece of Cork Barkor all these items are available in a Starter Kit

After a while as your collection and experience grows otheralternatives and extras can be used.

able or disposable, a good clean out is easily done. The cage set up ad-vised in this leaflet is practicable and can be made to look pleasing to theeye. It can be made to look quite natural even without using live plantswhich are best left until some experience is gained. In any case, some ofthe very informative books on amphibians in general and frogs in particu-lar could be investigated.

�Food & FeedingInsects like crickets and locusts form the staple diet in captivity for mostspecimens. Mealworms can also be fed. Crickets should be fed CricketDiet Plus while Mealworms and Locusts should be offered Mealworm DietPlus respectively to 'load' the insect with vitamins and minerals. Alterna-tively, the insects can be dusted with a supplement like Repton.

Waxworms can be given as an occasional treat or used to tempt fussyfeeders. Some species will take earthworms but not all are able to copewith wet or sticky prey. For really small individuals or those habituallyfeeding on ants, fruit flies or hatchling crickets can be used.

Food is sensed by movement and then grabbed with the mouth or caughton a sticky tongue. If it puts up too much of a struggle or is particularlybulky, it is pushed in with the fore limbs. Frogs can take enormous mealscompared to their size. Meals that are over half the size of the frog havebeen eaten. Despite this, it is not recommended that such gargantuanfeasts be offered. Indeed, many juvenile specimens may have died prema-turely due to their owners misguided attempts to indulge them.

Feed the frogs about twice every week with enough food that equals nomore than one quarter of the animal's total mass. Do not leave an excessof uneaten insects in the cage as these will only annoy the frogs.

A water dish kept full of fresh water should always be available. Frogs donot drink but soak up water through the skin. So do not put vitaminsupplements into the water dish as this may cause more problems that itprevents. There is no route into the gut via the water dish.

Almost all of them like to immerse themselves occasionally, so a bath isessential. The problem is that the animals may use the bath as a loo. Thiswill need cleaning out as soon as possible, as frogs are particularly sensitiveto the combination of wetness and dirt.

�ReproductionTo sex a frog an adult specimen is usually required. The males often havevocal sacs and darker coloured throats. Many also have rough dark padson the fingers and thumb. These are used to grip the female and ensurethe male is present when the spawn is laid.

Mating and spawning may not be at all easy to induce in captivity. Ifbreeding is contemplated, a good deal of research will be necessary andsome of the many excellent books should be consulted.

�Health & DiseaseFrogs live for many years in nature and may be expected to live evenlonger in captivity. They do not suffer from many diseases and veterinaryattention is rarely needed. A scrupulously clean environment and diet asdescribed in this leaflet will preclude most problems. Good practice,hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease or injuryis discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Pet frogs do not pose areal threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regardinghumans and animals should, however, be observed.

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� HabiStat, Heat Mats(6x11/7w, 11x11/12w,17x11/20w, 23x11/28w,29x11/35w, 35x11/42w &49x11/55w) & Strips(17x6/10w, 23x6/15w,35x6/22w & 47x6/30w)or Dinosaur Fossil HotRock

� Thermometers (Alcohol,dial, minimum - maximum& electronic digital)

� Hygrometers (Dial &electronic digital)

� HabiStat Thermostats(Mat-Stat/100w,Temperature/300w, Twin/2x300, Pulse Proportional/600w, Dimming/600w &Night Time Drop Function)

� HabiStat Light Switches(Sun, Moon, and Sun &Moon Switches and NightEyes.)

� Repti-rock Dishes,Hides & Caves

� Repti-Vine� Rain Forest

Substrate� Cork Bark

Curio Wood� Lights e.g. Reptile D

3or Natural SunlightArcadia ControlUnits (15w, 2x15w,18w, 2x18w, 20w &2x20w)Basking Spot Lamp

� CricketsLocustsMealwormsWaxworms

� Mealworm DietPlusCricket Diet Plus

� Vetaclean� Vetasept Surgical

ScrubVetasept Hand Rub

� Books & Leaflets