project on labour turnover rate

APPAREL INTERNSHIP

DOCUMENT REPORT

GOKALDAS IMAGES

For the Partial Fulfillment of the Course

“DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY”

Submitted by:-

P.S.SHRADDHA

RADHIKA AHLAWAT

DFT-VII

2005-2009

Submitted to:-

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

HYDERABAD

INTERNSHIP AT GOKALDAS IMAGES

INDEX

S. NO. CONTENTS PAGE NO.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29


PREFACE

On completion of the Sixth semester of “Apparel Manufacturing & Information

Technology” - a Four year Apparel Production Under-graduate course students

are exposed to an eight week industry internship with a garment manufacturing

organization as part of their course curriculum.

The objective of this summer internship is aimed at blending the classroom

principles with industry application. The other specific purpose includes:

Exposure to factory and office conditions.

Study of manufacturing processes thoroughly.

Understand inter and intra - departmental procedures.

Analyze different working procedures and write down problems and

suggestions.

Understand industry expectations from a DFT student.

For this purpose we did our internship at “Gokaldas images” and are grateful

to the management who granted their permission and opportunity for the same.


ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Ourselves, P.S.Shraddha and Radhika Ahlawat, students of four year

Apparel Production course in “Department of Fashion Technology”, in National

Institute of Fashion Technology,Hyderabad, for the partial fulfillment of our

course, underwent a Summer Internship at ”Gokaldas Images”, at its Sri

Venkateshwara Garment Unit for eight Weeks.

For the same we would like to thank our course coordinator “Ms. Sharmila

Sure”, without whose concern and efforts, this internship would never have been

possible.

We are also highly grateful to “Mr. Deepak Reddy”, General Manager,

Manufacturing Dept., “Gokaldas Images, Head office”, who granted us the

permission to work as internees.

We would like to thank “Mr. Bhimarao”, Vice President, HR Dept.,

“Gokaldas Images, Head office”, who helped us during the project.

We would like to thank “Mr. Prashanth”, Factory Manager, “Sri

Venkateshwara Garment Unit”, our mentor and guide throughout the Internship,

who assisted us throughout our internship and made it a fine learning experience.

Apart from these, we would also like to thank the various workers and staff

members who were there to assist us at every step and to answer our queries.


PART-1


1. INTRODUCTION

1.1 COMPANY PROFILE

Since its inception in 1979, Gokaldas Images (GI) has achieved sustained

growth and crossed milestones, the present focus is however, is on achieving the

same, within the organization- through its people, processes, culture and quality.

One of the biggest achievements for GI, is the internal integration of man,

machine and thought into a single GI spirit. The existence of this spirit is what

resonates and throbs inside the organization and its actions and efforts is what

the world has seen as Gokaldas Images brand.

“Flexibility’ in approach couples with agility in action has become GI’s hallmark

and it sets them apart in the borderless business world.

1.2 FACT FILE:

Gokaldas Images (GI), since 1979

GI

One of India’s largest integrated clothing corporations.

GI body

7 divisions in manufacturing, retailing and exporting.

GI domestic

70 exclusive retail outlets and over 200 selling points.

GI size

18 automated factories with 4800 machines.

GI turnover

Exceeds USD 70 million

GI life

9000 committed and highly skilled people.


1.3 GI DIVISIONS:

GI today stands equal to the world’s largest fashion houses, with its export

operations organized into seven product- seven divisions that function as

independent profit centers.

1.3.1 Fashion wear:

Products

Men’s and boy’s shirts, trousers, casual summer jackets and shorts, ladies and

girl’s dresses, skirts, trousers, embroidered and embellished tops, golf wear in

woven fabrics.

Fabrics

Cotton and cotton blends, linen and linen blends, silk and silk blends, wool and

wool blends, micro-polyester and polyester blends, yarn dyed, jacquards,

computerized embroideries and prints.

Monthly capacity

2,50,000

1.3.2 Outerwear:

Products

Light weight summer jackets in nylons and other weather proof fabrics, heavy

padded anoraks, woolen coats, windcheaters, parkas, athletic tanks, jogging

suits, ski-suits, track suits, swim wear, shorts for men and boys, riding and

hunting jackets.

Fabrics

Nylon and nylon blended fabrics, performance fabrics, fleece, micro-fiber

polyester, moisture wicking fabrics, anti-bacterial fabrics, breathable polyester

blends, faux suede in polyester and blends, light weight nylon.

Monthly capacity

100,000


1.3.3 Denim wear

Products

Embellished, washed, sand-blasted and sprayed jeans, jackets, shirts and

dresses.

Fabrics

Light and heavy weight denims, canvas, drill and heavy twill.

Monthly capacity

75,000

1.3.4 Active Wear

Products

Mercerized polo’s, cut and sewn knits, ladies basic and fashion tees, knitted tops,

moisture maintenance tees.

Fabrics

2/60s and 2/80s double mercerized knits, micro-polyester fibres, nylon and poly

blends, rayon/cotton blended knits, single jersey and interlock, yarn dyed stripes

and auto stripes, lycra blends.

Monthly capacity

250000

1.3.5 Lingeries

Products

Brassiere, panties, corset bras, support bras, athletic bras.

Fabrics

Cotton and cotton laces, nylon-spandex, stretch laces, micro-polyester blends.

Monthly capacity

200000

1.3.6 Women formal wear

Products

Ladies suits, trousers, skirts and dresses

Fabrics

Woolen and wool blends, polyester blends, silk, micro fibres, linen blends.


Monthly capacity

50000

1.3.7 Suits & Dress Pants

Products

Men suits, blazers, dress-shirts and trousers.

Fabrics

Woolen and wool blends, polyester blends, silk, micro fibres, linen blends, cotton

and cotton blend, fine, solid dyed and yarn dyed shirtings.

Monthly capacity

90000

1.4 GI USA

With the globe shrinking and distances dwindling, thanks to jet age and

computers, GI decided to be close to the client. The result was a a fully functional

office and showroom in New York. A dedicated team in this Manhattan office

works tirelessly to pre-empt and meet the client requirements.

1.5 COLLABORATIONS

Recognition of GI’s effort in the global garment manufacturing scene came in the

form of several international tie-ups.

BARBARA has a joint venture with GI to manufacture and retail lingerie in India

and Europe.

PLAYTEX is a buy back agreement with Saralee Corporation.

K-LIFE is a license to produce urban clothing for USA.

OXFORD CLOTHING has a manufacturing agreement with GI for men’s suits.

On the anvil is the extension of the same to formal wear.

LEVIS has a manufacturing agreement with GI, for denims in India.

1.6 GI LOGISITICS

Bangalore, the manufacturing base of GI, has over a dozen direct freighter flights

a week, landing at major European and American cargo hubs.

Chennai, a major port is just 6 hrs away by road.


1.7 GI INFRASTRUCTURE

18 specialized garment manufacturing facilities.

Six node lectra CAD/Cam facility.

All accompaniments for global electronic exchange of pattern data.

Stringent sampling and quality control systems.

In-house textile quality lab.

In-house washing facility.

In-house multi-head embroidery.

STM, AATCC, ISO and DIN standards followed

Single web-based information system connecting all operations.

1.8 GI RETAIL

Leveraging its core strengths in distribution, merchandising and image creation,

GI introduced the concept of branded clothing, franchising and the open store, to

Indian market WEEKENDER through its associate firm Personality Ltd. in 1987.

Weekender which focused on youth fashion was later extended to children’s

wear, for the 2-12 years age group and branded as Weekender Kids.

Every season Weekender and Weekender Kids launch more than 200 new

styles. Both the brands today are retailed through two separate franchise chains

in 70 exclusive outlets in cities across the nation. They are the leading brands in

their segment, in size, brand appeal and influence on the market.

The domestic retail initiative of GI also includes licensed brands from Warner

Bros. like Harry Potter, Tom & Jerry, Loony tunes and Mickey Mouse & Donald

Duck from Disney. These ranges are conceptualized and manufactured in-house.

Gokaldas Intimatwear, is a joint venture with Barbara of Paris. The JV shall bring

high quality ladies innerwear to the Indian market, with various brand offerings

beginning with enamor.


1.9 RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT:

GI combines the diverse strengths of the domestic handloom and other traditional

skills with new international developments to produce an in-house fabric range for

every season.

Equipped with state of the art CAD and other facilities, the GI Design and

Resource Centre adds GI as a preferred source of original fabric, offering a rich

variety of designs, blends and constructions, unavailable elsewhere.

1.10 GI WHERE COMPLIANCES ARE A GIVEN:

International human rights’ laws followed.

Strict compliance with anti-child labor laws.

Health insurance, pension and bonuses, gratuity, paid-medical leave and

day care centre provided.

Minimum wages and overtime regulation.

Special cell under HRD o take care of grievances.

Fire drill and first aid training is provided at all facilities on regular basis.

Extensive biological effluent treatment plant.

Azo-free and environment friendly dyeing process.

The result is a certification and an approval from audit agencies and clients alike

GI has been found to have compliant facilities by agencies like SGS, CSSC, ITS

and Price Waterhouse Cooper.

1.11 GI CREATIVITY WITHOUT BORDERS

The shrinking marketplace, the constantly changing business environment and

the ever-changing needs of the customers, have redefined the way they do

business.

Backward integration, joint commitments, license agreements, extensive in-house

R&D, and our flexibility, all stem from the corporate mission, creativity without

borders.

1.12LOCATION


1.12.1 GI INDIA

7&12, Industrial Suburb, 2nd Stage,

Yeshwanthpur, Tumkur Road,

Bangalore-560022.

Tel: 91-80-3377059/60

1.12.2 GI USA

Suite 2704/05, 1400 Broadway,

New York

N.Y. 10018

Tel: 212-730-3950

1.13 FACTORY PROFILE


Factory name: M/s Gokaldas ImagesM/s Sri Venketeshwara Garments-INo. 1-35/5/1, Ind. Suburb, YeshwanthpurN.H. 4, Tumkur Road, Bangalore-560022

Telephone no.: 91-80-23379194

Fax: 91-80-23471757

Contact Person: Mr. PrashanthFactory Manager

E-mail: [email protected]

Total area: 8798 square feet

Product category that Trouserscan be handled by the Jacketsfactory: Denims

Product strength: Jackets

Fabric handling Capabilities:.

1.14ORGANISATION CHART


ORGANISATION CHART:

2. PROCESS FLOW


Buyer Orders

Finalization of Measurement Charts, Patterns and Styles Sheets ordered

by Buyer

Sampling

o Sampling Execution & Follow up

o Costing

o Sampling Shipments

o Re sampling (If any rejections are received)

o Sampling Approvals

Planning

o Planning the time required for each of the processes involved in the

execution

o Raw material calculations as per average sheets, adding

wastage/shrinkage at appropriate processes.

o Raw material Procurement

o Fabric requirements

o Non fabric trims/ accessories requirements

o Packing material requirements

Procurement of fabric and non fabric items and accessories

o Approvals from buyer (if required)

o Checking/inspection of raw material

o Rejects

o Resource planning

o Manpower and machinery

o Production line planning

o Information clarity to production


Cutting

o Instructions/Orders to the in-house Cutting Department

o Calculation of the fabric requirement and checking the

stock/availability once again

o Issue of the fabric / Lining / Other Material etc.

o Layering and Cutting

o Bundling of cut pieces

o Inventory of cut pieces/Bundles/Lots

Sewing

o Stitch Orders/Instructions

o Issue of cut pieces

o Calculation of raw material requirements

o Issue of raw materials

o Approval of a few stitched pieces before regularizing the issue of

fabrics/raw material

o Issue of other things like samples / patterns / designs / other special

considerations/ Measurement charts.

o Reception of Stitched pieces Checking

o Alteration (if required)

Finishing & Packing

o Instruction/orders

o Issue of pieces

o Reception of finished and packed pieces

o Checking

o Rejects

o Buying agent visits for inspection

o Inspection comments

Re processing cycle


Shipment/dispatch

2.1 DURING THE PROCESS FLOW DIFFERENT MEETINGS ARE

CONDUCTED

2.1.1 PRE PRODUCTION MEETING

Objective To confirm that the order has been placed.

To discuss and confirm any issues that must be

resolved.

Discuss any machine or attachment requirements.

Discuss any training requirements

Broad Questions What are the required machines and attachments.

What sewing skill would need to be developed.

Are there any queries regarding the construction of

the garment ?

Point person Merchandiser

Chairperson Merchandiser Manager

Participants The following persons should contribute to this

meeting.

Additional people should be asked to attend when

their expertise is required.

o Merchandiser manager

o Technical manager

o Factory manager or Production manager

o Industrial engineer

o Merchandiser

o Fabric technologist

o Planning manager

o Cutting room manager


o QC

Time Frame Within 3 days of an order being confirmed.

Pre-requisite

1. A sample garment or sketch.

2. A style file has been started.

3. Information on special requirements.(Printing, embroidery etc)

4. A BOM with all details.

5. Garment breakdown, machine and attachment requirements.

6. Production plan with number of teams required.

2.1.2 PILOT APPRAISAL MEETING

Objective To go through the first production and confirm that the

required standards can be achieved in bulk

To confirm “Go To Bulk”.

To confirm trim and fabric consumptions

Broad Questions Discuss all the raw materials

Colour coding and matching trims, etc.

Are measurements to specification.

Point person Factory Manager

Chairperson Technical Manager


meeting.




o Technical manager


o Production Supervisor.




o QC

Time Frame As first pilot production is completed and before

cutting Bulk.

Pre-requisite 1. Full style file.

2. First production garments fully complete with

packaging, etc.

3. An approved sample is available.

2.1.3 PRE PRODUCTION MEETING

Objective To discuss the final style details.

To ensure that the product can be manufactured

consistently in bulk production.

Broad Questions Are all the required machiners and attachments in

house ?

Do we have the required sewing skill.

Are all queries regarding the construction approved ?


Point person Technical manager

Chairperson Factory Manager


meeting.



o Technical manager

o Factory manager

o Floor in charge


o Merchandiser


o Planner


o QC

o Maintenance

Time Frame Two weeks before the production start date.

Pre-requisite 1. A garment has been made in the factory.

2. A complete style file including a technical pack.

3. An approved sample.

4. A BOM with all details.

5. Garment breakdown.


2.1.4 START UP MEETINGTART UP MEETING:

Objective To discuss the final details and raw material

specifications .

To go through the trim card

Broad Questions Discuss all the raw materials

Color coding and matching trims, etc.

Discuss the fabric inspection report.

Point person Factory Manager

Chairperson Merchandiser


meeting.



o Technical manager



o Merchandiser


o Planning manager


o QC

Time Frame Three days before the production start date.


Pre-requisite 1. All fabric and trims are in house, tested and

available for use.

2. There are no technical issues outstanding.

3. An approved sample is available.

3. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

At Gokaldas Images, the merchandising can be divided in two parts:

Marketing Merchandising

Product Merchandising

Marketing Merchandising

Main functions of marketing merchandising are:

Product development

Costing

Getting Purchase Orders

It brings the order, develops the product, and does the costing. It has a

direct access to the Buyer.


BUYERBUYER

MERCHANDISER

Accessories

Testing

Fabric

Design/Sampling

Documentation

Shipping

Quality check

Production

Product Merchandising

This is from sourcing to finishing that is from first sample onwards, the product

merchandising work starts and ends till the shipment.

For each style the related merchandiser maintains a package file.

3.1 MERCHANDISER’S PACKAGE FILE

1. List of orders pasted on the left hand inside cover of the file.

2. Tech pack.

3. CAD marker-costing and factory.

4. RMR-order wise and summary chart.

5. Trim pro forma invoices from the supplier.

6. Confirmation of the trim.

7. Commercial invoices (C.I.).

8. Confirmation of the CI from the store.

9. Order chart from the buyer.

10.P.O. copies from the buyers.

11.Fabric “order confirmations” with approved fabrics swatches.

12.Time and action calendar.

13.Hard copy of all incoming and outgoing crucial and important mails that

may be required for future references (buyer related).

14.Mills fabric reports-checking, testing.

15. Internal fabric reports-checking, testing.

16.Buyer approved-

a. Trim card

b. Shade bands

c. Wash swatch/wash mocks

d. Embroidery/printing

2. Minutes of PP meeting.

3. Hard copies of in/out mails with respect to production-either with

PPD/QA/factory-all concerned and important mails.


4. Size set-passed comments-(buyers).

5. Pilot-approval comments.

6. Internal quality audit reports before final inspection.

7. Packing list.

8. Invoice received from shipping department at Bombay for the purpose of

shipment.

9. Dispatch details i.e. date LR Number dispatched to which CHA destination

vehicle number, number of cartons, number of pieces and sending

factory’s name.

3.2 MERCHANDISER IS REQUIRED TO CARRY OUT FOLLWING

ACTIVITIES:

Design/Sampling.

Fabric.

Accessories.

Testing.

Production.

Quality Check.

Documentation.

Shipping/Forwarding.

3.3 WORKING PROCEDURES

1. The orders are generally received on mail. The merchandiser has to take a

hard copy of it. The merchandiser discusses the delivery date with GM-

Merchandising and obtains his signature confirming the delivery date. All such

mails signed copies are filed in a separate "'MASTER BOX FILE" titled "ORDER

CONFIRMATION FILE" which is always with GM-M. During the same period the

merchandiser also goes through all the details of order and verifies the "Order

Calendar Book"


2. The relevant documents i.e.

Tech Pack

Previous CAD marker

Trim charts

Fabrics cuttings

Thread approval

Embroidery or print approval- if any, from the respective SRS files that is

available with the sampling department -headed by the Sampling Manager.

The Merchandising department basically acts like a bridge between the buyer

and the factory. Its basic duty is to book orders from the buyers and make it sure

that the orders are executed according to the buyer’s requirements in terms of

style, construction, quality and quantity.

This is done by accurate communication between the buyer and the factory.

Hence the merchandiser plays the part of communicating in the form of minute

details, the requirements of the particular style.

3.4 GOALS SET UP BY THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT:

1. To ensure reduction in Customer complaints.

2. To ensure timely response and delivery to Customers

3. To work towards increase in the sample approval at first time.

4. To Reduce Associate turnover

3.5 BASIC ACTIVITIES REQUIRED TO BE DONE ON A DAY TO DAY BASIS

REGARDING THE ORDER EXECUTION:

Receiving the order from Buyer and other relevant samples and product

information.

Giving sample material requirements to sourcing teams.

Follow-up of sample production and dispatch to buyers.

Follow-up of sample approvals from Buyers and notifying comments if any

to respective teams.

Communicate to Buyer on the variation in specs, materials etc and follow-

up for approval prior to the bulk production.

Conducting External Pre Production meeting wherever applicable.


3.6 ACTIVITIES REQUIRED TO BE DONE REGARDING THE INFORMATION

FLOW TO THE RELEVANT DEPARTMENTS THROUGH MOVEX AND

TECHNICAL FOLDERS, STYLE DETAILS:

Entering the order details pertaining to Merchandising.

Conduct Order clarity meeting and define the T & A (Time and Action

Calendar) across throughput processes.

Release of material requirements to sourcing function.

Organize to dispatch the samples to buyer and approvals on time.

Ensure availability of product information and approvals to meet the PCDs.

Handing over the folders and style information to PPC on or before the PP

meeting.

Monitoring the production status and timely alert on deviations.

3.7 ACTIVITIES REQUIERED TO BE DONE FOR THE CONTINUOUS

IMPROVEMENT OF THE PROCESS:

Improving the on time sample development and dispatch.

Analyzing the Order completion reports and incorporating the learning in

subsequent orders.

Analyzing the Order completion reports and incorporating the learning in

subsequent orders.

Getting all the update on the product and quality areas by attending the

seminars and through magazines for the better improvement.


3.8 PROCESS FLOW FOR THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT:


A merchandiser works on a specific buyerA merchandiser works on a specific buyer

The work is divided according to the type of garment

being done, e.g. men’s wear.

.

The work is divided according to the type of garment

being done, e.g. men’s wear.

.

The division is taken up for the order

.

The division is taken up for the order

.

Packages are sent by the buyer to the company which

carries the TECHPAK including the details of the

garment.

.

Packages are sent by the buyer to the company which

carries the TECHPAK including the details of the

garment.

.

The merchandising department works out the accessories and

trims required and prepare a Bill of Material (BOM), which

contains the consumption per garment. It is passed on to the

Purchase Department.

.

The merchandising department works out the accessories and

trims required and prepare a Bill of Material (BOM), which

contains the consumption per garment. It is passed on to the

Purchase Department.

.

The style is given to the Central Planning team to work out the

SMV values and operation breakdown.

.

The style is given to the Central Planning team to work out the

SMV values and operation breakdown.

.

The TECHPAK is sent to all the departments concerned i.e.

sampling and sourcing.

.

The TECHPAK is sent to all the departments concerned i.e.

sampling and sourcing.

.


Fabric team: works out the costing of the fabric; yarn, knitting,

processing, dyeing, wastages.

.

.

Fabric team: works out the costing of the fabric; yarn, knitting,

processing, dyeing, wastages.

.

.

Pattern Master: works out the patterns

.

.

Pattern Master: works out the patterns

.

.

PPC team: works out the kinds of cost, to be incurred during

production, finishing, packing.

.

.

PPC team: works out the kinds of cost, to be incurred during

production, finishing, packing.

.

.

Costing team: prepares an entire cost estimate of the

production of the garment in bulk.

.

.

.

Costing team: prepares an entire cost estimate of the

production of the garment in bulk.

.

.

.

The costing is cross checked with the higher authorities and

then sent to the buyer after some changes if necessary.

.

.

The costing is cross checked with the higher authorities and

then sent to the buyer after some changes if necessary.

.

. The buyer is informed about the pricing and the sampling

process starts.

.

.

Checkers/ Helpers

The buyer is informed about the pricing and the sampling

process starts.

.

.

Checkers/ Helpers

Proto, Fit, Pre Production samples are sent to the buyer.

.

.

Proto, Fit, Pre Production samples are sent to the buyer.

.

.Buyer reviews and sends comments on the product for

improvement or manipulations.

.

.

Buyer reviews and sends comments on the product for

improvement or manipulations.

.

.

.


The business is booked once the samples are approved in all

respects

.

.

The business is booked once the samples are approved in all

respects

.

.

The lead time and the delivery dates are informed to the buyer

according to the order size.

.

.

The lead time and the delivery dates are informed to the buyer

according to the order size.

.

.The buyer is informed about the pricing and the sampling

process starts.

.

.

The buyer is informed about the pricing and the sampling

process starts.

.

. The Purchase Order is received by the company.

.

.

The Purchase Order is received by the company.

.

.All the concerned departments are informed about the capacity

booked.

.

.

All the concerned departments are informed about the capacity

booked.

.

.A Time and Action Calendar is made which specifies the time

period and the dates of all the activities like fabric sourcing,

trim sourcing, cutting date.

.

.

A Time and Action Calendar is made which specifies the time

period and the dates of all the activities like fabric sourcing,

trim sourcing, cutting date.

.

.The merchandiser informs the buyer about the progress of the

activities and the updated Time and Action Plan every week.

.

.

The merchandiser informs the buyer about the progress of the

activities and the updated Time and Action Plan every week.

.

.All the above activities are undertaken to meet the Production

Cut Date (PCD) which is generally 30 days.

.

.

All the above activities are undertaken to meet the Production

Cut Date (PCD) which is generally 30 days.

.

.

3.9 DETAILED PROCESS ACTIVITIES OF MERCHANDISING

SECTION

3.9.1 ORDER CONFIRMATION AND FOLLOW UP:

This department is the main link between the factory and the

buyers. The buyers rely on the merchandisers to provide them with

the information regarding the capacity available, the style feasibility

and the setting up of delivery dates for the shipment.

There is a merchandising team dedicated for each buyer. For

example there are separate merchandising teams for Armani

Exchange, Abercrombie & Fitch etc.

Each of this merchandising team has a Senior Merchandiser. Under

his guidance there is a team of 6-8 Junior Merchandisers. This

team is further supported by 1or 2 Data Entry Operators and Office

Coordinators.

This process involves receiving the initial order details from the

buyer’s representative and communicating through E-mail and

telephonic conversations.

The merchandising team keeps the buyer updated about all the

developments taking place regarding the order.

The order booking and the order confirmation details are received

by the merchandising team who further transfers this information to

the other departments.

3.9.2 PREPARATION OF BILL OF MATERIALS:

The merchandising team receives the details of all the style features

in the particular order. This also includes the following :

Fabric quality details


Thread Details

Finish Details

Accessories like beads, sequins, laces etc.

Prints and Embroidery

Trims like buttons, zippers

Wash care labels

Size labels

Brand labels

Packing Material details

Hangtags

Besides receiving this information from the buyer, the

merchandisers also receive the Fabric consumption per garment for

each size from the sampling section, Thread consumption per

garment from the Central Planning department and the accessories

requirement per garment from the sampling department.

Based on this information received, the merchandiser prepares a

Bill of Materials (BOM). This has the complete details of the

requirement of all the parts going into the making of the garment.

Each of the material is stated above is mentioned per garment.

This BOM is entered into the ERP package by the Data Entry

Operators for access by the Purchase Department.

The BOM is used by the Purchase Department and the Fabric

Sourcing Department to order the materials as per the order

quantity.

3.9.3 PREPARATION OF TIME & ACTION CALENDER/PLAN;

The department prepares a tentative Time and Action Calendar for

the activities like –

o Sample development

o Sample approval

o Lab Dip approvals


o Trims approvals

o Accessories approval

o Pre Production sample approvals

o Cutting start date

o Sewing start date

o Embroidery start date

o Finishing start date

o Shipment dispatch date.

The planned and actual dates of the TNA are entered into the sheet

as and when the activities are carried out. Any deviations are

looked into and the decisions are made.

The buyer representatives are also regularly updated about the

developments on the TNA and the order status.

3.9.4 COORDINATING THE SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT PROCESS:

The merchandising department plans and coordinates the activities

of the sampling department.

The sampling section is given the TECHPAK which contains all the

relevant details.

The samples to be made are planned in the merchandising

department and the plan is given to the sampling section.

The samples are sent to the merchandising department for initial

approvals according to the spec sheet provided by the buyer. The

samples are sent to the buyer for approvals only when they are

approved by the merchandising department.

The sampling department is also informed by the merchandising

about the types of samples required by the buyer.

The merchandiser receives the buyer comments for all the samples

and makes it sure it is informed to the sampling and the necessary

changes made in all the required areas.


3.9.5 GETTING APPROVALS FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES FOR THE

GARMENT:

Once an order is booked, Order Clarity Meeting is conducted to

understand the requirements in detail. Samples are prepared and

send to customer for approval. Similarly, throughout the

production activities, the interaction with customer is made as

explained bellow.

Fabric Approvals: We get the approval from customer for the

fabrics sourced for manufacturing garments. In some cases, the

buyer certifies the supplier base, and we procure the materials

from them.

Yarn Dyed program: In case of yarn dyed order yarn lab-dip has

to be sent to the buyer for color approval. Upon confirmation, knit

down approval has to be taken from buyer where specified.

Solid dyed program: Lab-dip fabric color approval is taken from

the buyer. Depending on the buyer bulk lot cutting shall be sent

to buyer for approval or for reference as advised.

Printed fabric Program: In case of the Printed fabric the base

fabric lab- dip is submitted to buyer and print artwork/design and

print color approval shall be taken before proceeding with the

bulk.

Fabric Package Test: These are buyer dependent and mostly

taken care by third party labs. All the tests that are required by the

buyer or the buyer’s SOP [Standard Operating Procedures] has to

be passed, failing which waiver has to be obtained from buyer for

the same.


Shade Band Approval: This is special requirement for all

garments dyed with pigment dyes, or topped with pigments, for

garments with enzyme washing or spray. The approval is taken by

the buyer.

Embroidery / hand work: Approval for thread color, sequence

color, bead color and quality parameters are taken from the buyer.

Accessories Approval: All trims and accessories which are

going in the garments are got to be approved by the buyer.

3.10 INTERPRETING THE TECHPAK / TECHNICAL FOLDER PROVIDED BY

THE BUYER:

The Technical Folder/Techpak is the reference for each department whenever it

comes to any information about the buyer requirements. The buyer states all his

requirements in a very precise manner which is contained in this document. The

following are the common details which are found in the Technical Folders of all

the buyers:

o Size wise quantity

o Color Wise Quantity

o Destination wise quantity

o Dispatch dates for all the lots and the quantity for the lots

Process development sheets which include-

o Style analysis report

o Buyer

o Style no.

o Style description

o Total order quantity


o Process sequence- listing out the order of the activities to be

done i.e. cut, panel wash or garment wash, panel

print/embroidery or garment print/embroidery

Fabric details-

o GSM of all the types of fabrics used in the garment

o Fabric construction

o Fiber types

o Fabric width

o Fabric/garment finish type and hand feel description

o Buyer nominated supplier (in certain cases)

o Fabric swatch

Sewing details-

o Stitch SPI for all the parts of the garment

o Stitch distance for all the seams e.g. distance of the top

stitch, distance of bottom hem from the bottom

o Single needle or double needle operation for all the seams

o Stitch no.

o Gauge and bight for overlock machines

Sewing thread details-

o Ticket no. of threads for each operation

o Thread color

o Thread type i.e. construction

o Nominated supplier if any

Pattern details-

o Size of ready garment at all the required areas

o Size of all the patterns

o Technical drawing of the garment, with important points

mentioned in the diagram.


Accessories required in the garment-

o Nominated supplier if any

o Accessories like satin tapes need to undergo color fastness

tests, so the quality requirement is also mentioned.

o Position of the accessories on the garment in terms of

measurements and alignments

Trims required in the garment-

o Type and dimensions of all the trims e.g. length of the zipper,

material of the zipper (metal or plastic).

o Positioning of trims on the garment, mentioned in writing and

diagrammatically as well.

o Color and finish of the trim

Description of the labels-

o Text to be written on the labels is specified by the buyer.

o The font size and font style for the text on the labels

o The material of the various labels

o Types of labels required i.e. Wash Care Labels, size labes,

brand labels

o Positioning g of the labels on the garment with dimensions

mentioned on a diagram of the garment.

o Type of stitch used to attach labels

Finishing details-

o Type of iron to be done( e.g. some garments require only a

mild touch up and the original fall of the garment is allowed

to come.

o A mention about the finishing quality (e. g. only steaming

requires that there should be no shade variation, seam /

water marks, seam impressions showing on the garment.


o Presentation labels and hangtags which are attached on the

garment before packing.

o Position of the attached hangtags and size labels on the

garment

o Final look of the packet after packing.

o AQL level to be followed while inspection in the finishing

section

Packing details-

o Details regarding the type of packing material to be used

o No. of garments in each poly bag or any other kind of pre-

pack.

o Written material on the packing material

o Size of the poly bags and the cartons

o No. of garments/pre-packs to be kept in each carton.

3.11 RECORDS AND FORMATS MAINTAINED IN THE MERCHANDISING

DEPARTMENT

S.No. FORMAT /DOCUMENT NAME

PURPOSE OF USE

1 Sample Evaluation report This report is maintained for all the

samples evaluated and inspected by the

merchandisers. It has the records of all

the comments and changes suggested.

2 Internal Approval Swatch Card

This is a general Swatch Card which is

used to attach the fabrics used for the

styles and orders after their approvals

from the buyers. There are three swath

cards from the fabric are maintained from

three places in the fabric roll.

3 Sales Order Documentation The merchandisers maintain a record of

all the sales orders raised for the

procurement of all the materials for the


order. One of the most important job of

the merchandiser is to follow up the

status of the materials which have been

ordered, to ensure the timely availability

of the materials to the production.

4 Consumption confirmation chart

This chart is made by taking the

consumption details from the sampling

department for all the sizes in the style of

the order. These consumption details are

obtained from the CAD markers. The

consumption is in terms of Kg. of fabric

required for all the fabric types in the

garment.

5 Material Requisition This format is filled up by the

merchandiser and sent to the fabric

stores for requesting material for sample

development. If the material is not

available, the fabric sourcing team is

informed the quantity and quality

required.

6 Sampling Job Order. This is a formal order raised to the

Sampling department instructing the

quantity and types of samples to be

made for the styles. The tentative dates

for sample preparation are also

mentioned and the reference numbers

for al the Technical Folders is mentioned.

7 Minutes of Order Clarity Meeting

The Head Merchandiser conducts an

Order Clarity Meeting. Here all the details

of the order booked are provided to the

Factory. The OCM minutes are


maintained by each merchandiser for

future reference in case of some

discrepancies arising in between the

merchants and the factory. ( i.e.

Production related departments)

8 Delivery Challan (D.C.) The merchandising delivers the samples

made to the buyer’s representatives. For

the same purpose, a DC is made in

which is listed the details of the order no.,

style no., no. of garments and color. This

is a formal procedure for transferring

goods from one place to another.

9 Garment hangtags All the hangtags required in the garment

are maintained by the merchandiser as a

separate file. They are the ones which

come in the company for the sampling

procedure and the order is placed only

after their approval.

10 Inter office Memo This is a common document used by

every department. In cases where some

communication needs to be made to

other departments, the sheets are

manually written and carried by the

Office Assistant.

11 Sampling cost sheet The costs incurred while sampling is

maintained in this document.


3.12 FORMATS AND MATERIALS RECEIVED BY THE MERCHANDISING

DEPARTMENT

S.No FORMAT/MATERIAL PURPOSE OF USE

1 Size set and pilot run

reports.

The size set and pilot run reports deal with

all the points worth listing for the garment.

This includes the measurement details for all

the parameters as well as the quality tests

according to the buyers’ requirements.

2 Tech Packs The Tech packs are the guidelines provided

by the buyer for the garment construction

and raw material sourcing. As already stated

in the details of the Technical Folder, all the

information can be obtained from this. It is

provided by the buyer to the merchandiser.

3 Purchase orders Purchase orders are a formal announcement

of the order booked by the merchandiser for

the factory. This has all the details of the

order quantity, shipment dates and

destination. The style numbers, item

numbers and the Movex numbers are

mentioned by the company.

4 Buyer Original Samples The samples which are used as the

reference for constructing samples by the

company are provided by the buyer. The

sourcing team also works out the fabric

details and the finish of the garment from the

samples.

5 Customer Complaint

Details

The merchandiser maintains the complaint

details for every sample and every order


dispatched coming under his buyer.

6 Shipment details The dates, mode of shipment, mode of

payment, Letter of Credit details and

destination of shipment are provided to the

merchandiser by the Dispatch department.

7 Sampling Development file The sample department maintains this file

and sends the copies to the merchandiser

concerned.


4 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

Garment manufacturing is a labor intensive industry. Research has shown

that in any sewing floor, only 20-30% of time is utilized by the machine and rest

goes in manual handling. This means in order to improve productivity faster

machines will not bring significant difference, but it is the method engineering

which can bring significant benefit.

4.1. Functions of Industrial Engineering Department:

To understand the production capacity of the factory, and to draw up plans

for an appropriate target output, suitable range of divided labor and

optimum production.

To investigate the level of individual skills.

To determine the time value for each work component under the motion

study. This supports improvements and standardization.

For use as a yardstick in evaluation of the operation.

To draw up plans and make estimates for a change of product or for the

construction of new orders.

To obtain an evaluation standard for the order receiving, planning using

the time study as the basis of control.

To use the basic order for determining the unit cost manufacturing and the

wage rate.

For use as the basis for introducing a production control system.

Take note of time period required for executing the order.

To make the adequate machines available for making the style.

To study the time complexities in the garment.


Depending on the above, decide the feasibility of the manufacture of the garment.

Coordinate with the production and merchandising departments.

To develop operation bulletin (OB) for every new style.

To develop the new style requirement (NSR) sheet for the style.

4.1.1 Time study:

It is a work measurement technique for recording the times and rates of

working for the elements of a specified job carried out under specified conditions,

and for analyzing the data so as to obtain the time necessary for carrying out the

job at a defined level of performance.

After doing the time study, improvements are made on the basis of time

values and based on which gives targets to the workers.

This consists of

Breaking down of the work into minute work components.

Recording the time required to finish the work.

4.1.2 Record keeping

Daily production report

Unit wise and style wise report.

Daily finishing report.

Weekly production report.

Production summary.

Operating production chart

Efficiency chart for analysis


Attendance chart

Target charts for styles

4.2 IE Department in Factory:

The IE department in the factory is assigned the following jobs-

Method Implementation in the batch.

To maintain the methods of the operation performed in the batch as

implemented by GSD.

Follow-up on low output operators. Finding out reason for low efficiency

and solving the problem to increase performance and productivity.

Off-standard & On-standard work details calculation

Maintaining Target stickers for each operation.

Issuing and maintaining gum sheets of each operator.

Finding out hourly production.

Size-wise loading and output calculation.

Generating Daily production report and style-wise efficiency report.

To conduct Time study of each operator at pre-fixed intervals.

Capacity report generation.

Create and update skill matrix of each operator & submit the same to

personnel department.

Assist in Factory planning.

4.3 Operator production sheet

Operator production sheets are maintained for each operator. Each operator is

given a gum sheet in which he/she can fill in the number of bundles and pieces

that he/she completed during that particular hour. This helps in bundle tracking,

WIP and efficiency estimation of the particular operator.

Gum sheets are issued to the batch as soon as the batch is loaded and it has to

be signed by the Supervisor and AAMT after each hour.

4.4 Target Sticker


Target sticker is prepared taking into consideration the SAM and the

operation concerned. It consists of target efficiency and target production that the

operator must achieve.

4.5 Hourly Production Report

Hourly production report is maintained by the IE department. Each

operators opening and closing WIP is maintained after each 2 hours. Thus,

production is constantly monitored for each 2 hours. WIP is also monitored and

thus operators lagging behind in certain operations and thus accumulating WIP

can be found out and preventive measures be taken.

4.6 Daily Production Report

The IE department is also supposed to maintain a daily production report

for each line. This report keeps track of pieces loaded, color and SAM,

Production and total SAM earned that day. This is maintained everyday and thus

gives a brief overview of how the factory performed on any particular day.

4.7 Style Wise Efficiency Report

Style wise production report is also maintained by the IE department. It

keeps a track of the number of pieces loaded, number of pieces produced, WIP,

SAM earned, style and factory efficiency. This is reviewed by production manager

who can thus get a crisp view of which line is lagging in production and efficiency.

4.8 Skill Matrix

In Gokaldas Images six grades are given to operators’ i.e. A+, A, B+,

B, C+, C,.

They are assigning following three grades on the basic of type of operations they

do. For both top and bottom garment the operators are given these three grades.

NOTE:

1. Grade A+

Almost all operations of A category & performance

5 to 6 operations of B category.

2. Grade A


Minimum of 6 to 8 operations of A category.

5 to 6 operations of B category

4.8.1 FOR TOPS:

Grade A- Operations Grade B- Operations Grade C- Operators

Att n/b collar with pattern Attach yoke & edge stitch yoke

(manual & folder)

Run stitch neck band

Set sleeve placket &

stitch arrow

Attach main lable to yoke Run stitch neck band

Set sleeve placket &

stitch arrow

Attach main lable to yoke Run stitch collar (profile)

Match & run collar Hem front placket Hem cuff or pocket

Close collar Attach fashion placket Close flap at bottom

Close cuff (folder) Run stitch collar, cuff & flaps Locking operations

Attach front placket

(kansai / DNLS)

T/S collar, shoulder Stay stitch or gathering

Hem bottom (Manual) Join shoulder (Manual &folder) Sew pleats

Top stitch sides (FOA) Hem side slit Overlock small parts

Top stitch sides (DNLS) Hem sleeve Prepare main label &

W/C label

Attach pocket Attach side seam

Overlock side seam & arm hole

Sew darts (manual)


4.8.2 FOR BOTTOM

Grade A- Operations Grade B - Operations Grade C - Operations

Attach lining to body Attach main lable to

yoke

Join waist band

Attach cargo pockets (SNLS) Sew for front pleats

(shapes)

Attach waist band to inner

nylon

Attach cargo pockets (DNLS) Sew for back pleats Overlock slit (front)

Attach cargo pockets (DNSB) Side seam lock stitch Attach side label & size

lable

Welt pockets Side seam overlock Overlock right fly

Top stitch upper and lower welt Top stitch side seam Stay stitch zipper

Attach waist band to body Hem bottom (folder) Stay stitch bottom

Close waist band Hem bottom (manual) Flap close (ready) stitch

Attach and close waist band

(folder)

Sew dart (knotting) Hem pocket

Finish waist band (Ditch stitch) Overlock front(side) Attach facing to pocket

bag

J- Stitch Attach zipper to the

front

Prepare waist band loops

Attach pockets Attach zipper to the

lining

Overlock rises

Hem bottom (blind) Edge stitch waist band Hem pocket facing

Close inseam (FOA with folder) Below pieces Tack waistband

Attach loops to waist

band

Top stitch flap

Lock waist band edges Draw cord prepration

Run stitch flaps

Top stitch pocket

Attach flap to front


Join back rise

5. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

Sampling is basically the process of producing some few garment pieces in order

to match the various buyer requirements such as the design features, size, style,

etc. as soon as any order is received the tech pack is handed over to the

sampling department and various samples of the product are developed in order

to get the orders confirmed from the buyer.

When the product is in the sampling stage, the buyer might suggest few

alterations or changes as per the appearance and fit of the garment and the

requirement of the style which are incorporated in the further samples and finally

a green tag sample is made and approved by the buyer which is the actual

representation of the product and handed over to the production floor as a guide

for the operators to be followed while the bulk production is going on.

Though sampling is a costly procedure but it identifies the various

problems which might be faced during the bulk production if sampling is not done.

5.1Functions of the sampling department:

The sampling department performs the following functions:

Develops samples and size-set for given order enquiry as mentioned in

the sampling indent issued by the merchandising department.

Calculates fabric and trim consumption for the garment.

Develops and rectify patterns as per buyer requirements and comments.

Develops salesman sample, proto sample and fit samples.

Maintain records for sample development for various buyers.

Maintain sampling status and maintaining the same from time to time.

Develop embellishments and embroideries as per buyer requirement.


5.2 Process Flow:


Merchandiser gets the proto sample approved from the buyer and the proto sample and base patterns

are sent to the Sampling along with all the alterations suggested by the buyer

Merchandiser gets the proto sample approved from the buyer and the proto sample and base patterns

are sent to the Sampling along with all the alterations suggested by the buyer

Sales man samples are developed and sent to the buyer

Sales man samples are developed and sent to the buyer

Pattern is digitized and grading done with the help of CAD

Pattern is digitized and grading done with the help of CAD

Pattern master develops the patternPattern master develops the pattern

Receives the techpak from merchandising department.

Receives the techpak from merchandising department.

Fabric consumption is calculated andMini marker is developed

Fabric consumption is calculated andMini marker is developed

Proto-sample is developed as per the base pattern

Proto-sample is developed as per the base pattern

Pre-production samples are developed only in the base size with all the corrections

Pre-production samples are developed only in the base size with all the corrections

Size-set is done on the production line and five samples of each size are developed

5.3 Types of sample:

Proto-sample: - Proto-sample is made out of substitute fabric and

substitute trims. It’s the first sample send to the buyer to get the idea to the

garment. It is also known as development sample. Four copies of proto-

samples are made:

One is send to the buyer.

One is send to Buying House.

One is send to the merchandiser or Mumbai head office.

One is kept in sampling department.

The samples are send along with the sample submit sheet. The proto-

sample is further worked upon to get the 2nd proto-sample according to the

buyer comments received.


Pilot run is done on the production line and one set of each size is developed in each colour

Pilot run is done on the production line and one set of each size is developed in each colour

Bulk production startsBulk production starts

TOP (Top of Production) sample is sent to the buyer

TOP (Top of Production) sample is sent to the buyer

Shipment sample is sent to the buyerShipment sample is sent to the buyer

Fit-sample: - These samples are made to check the fit of the garments.

Size-set sample: - All the sizes of a particular style are made and send to

the buyer. Size set samples are used for checking the grading. Five

samples of each size are made for the size-set sample.

Pre-production sample: -This is made after the approval of style to be

produced in bulk. This is made with actual fabric and in actual trims. Four

PP samples are made.

Sealer sample: -This sample is made after the pre production sample with

changes (if any) or no change and sealed so that the production can be

started. It accompanies a package which contains following reports –

Fabric package test report.

Garment package test report.

Shrinkage report.

5.4 Working Procedure:

The package file is received from the merchandiser and the copies of it are

handed over to the sampling manager, CAD in charge, sampling

technician and the sampling QA in charge.

The pattern request is received from the merchandiser by the sampling

manager for the following samples:

Proto Sample

Second Proto Sample

Fit sample

PP sample

Size set sample

Sealer sample

TOP sample


Shipment Sample

The weekly plan is then generated based on the requisition received from

the merchandiser and it is handed over to the sampling coordinator, CAD

in charge, merchandiser and the sampling QA in charge.

The pattern cum sample requisition is given to the sampling coordinator by

the sampling manager for manual patterns as per the buyer requirements.

The CAD in charge receives the package file from the sampling

coordinator and after discussion with the sampling manager and the

technician the package file copy is handed over and discussed with the

concerned pattern maker.

The pattern maker after discussing with the technician makes the patterns

according the details in the package file and hand over the patterns to the

CAD in charge.

After the patterns are received by the CAD in charge, they are checked

and are handed over to the CAD operators for digitizing, grading and

adding shrinkage to the patterns.

The patterns along with the cutting plan are then handed over to the

sampling coordinator who in turn hands them over to the cutters.

The requisition is raised for the fabric and accessories by the sampling

coordinator and given to be signed by the sampling manager.

The feeding helpers do the loading as per the requisition of accessories

and fabric to the cutters and tailors

The thread consumption is prepared and given to the sampling manger by

the sampling coordinator from which the thread consumption chart is

generated. This is done using the meter. The meter is attached to the

sewing machine and the garment is stitched. The meter gives the amount

of thread consumed (in meters). They then prepare the Thread

Consumption Report. This report contains the details – Type of stitch,

Stitching length, SPI, Consumption per meter. This is filled for all the

stitches in the garment.

After receiving the fabric, the QA in charge holds a meeting with all in-line

and end-line QA’s before the style starts.


Cutting and stitching of samples is then started.

Measurement audit reports of in-line and end-line QA’s are checked and

the final inspection report of samples is generated for the finished

samples.

The sampling manager discusses with the merchandiser for the rejected

samples and records them.

The approved samples are handed over to the merchandiser with

comments. In case of any clarification required regarding the samples the

merchandiser is contacted.

The sampling procedure taking place at the various stages of sample

development in The Gokaldas Images is as follows:

The base patterns are prepared in the head office at Tumkur Road and a

proto sample is made in the sampling division at the head office and sent to the

buyer for approval. Proto samples are usually made on the substitute fabrics and

with the trims that are available in order to develop the style. Once the buyer

approves the proto sample, a fit sample is made in order to develop the fit of the

garment, usually done on substitute fabrics and it is then sent to the centralized

sampling unit along with the base patterns.

Using the base patterns, proto samples, fit samples and the alterations as

mentioned by the buyer. As the order is confirmed and the merchandiser receives

the purchase order from the buyer, four pieces are produced in the base size

which is the actual representation of the style. All the trims and fabric used are as

per the tech-pack and all the corrections are incorporated in these samples. The

distribution of these samples is as follows:

One sample goes to the buying office from where the orders are

placed.

One sample goes to the buyer.

One sample goes to the concerned factory where production has to

take place.

Pre-production sample acts as the sealer sample which hangs on the

production floor to be used as a reference.


After the pre-production samples are approved a size-set is made on the

actual production line in which five samples in each size is produced and sent to

the buyer for approval.

After the size set pilot run is performed on the actual production line in

order to acquaint the operators with the design and all the production related

issues and difficulties are sorted out at this stage. The pilot run is performed to

develop a set of samples in each size and each color.


6. CAD DEPARTMENT

Merchandiser sends an indent to the CAD department requesting for

markers and patterns with required details. A marker is produced

considering the width, shrinkage to finally know the fabric consumption. Bulk

production markers are prepared to economize the fabric consumption.

Lectra systems is used to develop the markers and patterns.

Functions:

Make production markers as per the production plan (i.e. according to

the size ratio given by the ratio planner).

Make mini markers for consumption at the sampling stage.

Do digitizing, grading, and pattern making

Maintain record markers.


6.1 PROCESS FLOW


Receipt of sampling indent from the merchandiser

with tech-pack, sample etc (if any) or patterns from

the pattern master

Receipt of sampling indent from the merchandiser

with tech-pack, sample etc (if any) or patterns from

the pattern master

Making the patterns on Modaris (Lectra Systems

software for pattern development.

Making the patterns on Modaris (Lectra Systems

software for pattern development.

Digitizing the patterns on the digitizer by Lectra

Systems

Digitizing the patterns on the digitizer by Lectra

Systems

Grading the patterns according to the desired sizes in accordance with

the specs.

Grading the patterns according to the desired sizes in accordance with

the specs.

Development of mini markers for fabric

consumption (sent to merchandiser for costing).

Development of mini markers for fabric

consumption (sent to merchandiser for costing).

Development of production markers to be issued to

cutting department.(these are checked by the pattern

master in terms of right grading etc.).

Development of production markers to be issued to

cutting department.(these are checked by the pattern

master in terms of right grading etc.).

7. TRIMS STORE

7.1 FUNCTIONS

Receive the accessories from supplier (Domestic/International) and to

store.

Maintain basic stock and maintain smooth flow of material.

To check the quality as per standard and quantity received from the

supplier.

Rational use of accessories and accountability for the authentic use.

Coordinate with different departments for the accessories.

Coordinate with supplier, Merchandiser, and Purchase department.

Keep the dead stock maintain, if accessories having Buyer/brand name

then destroying it.

7.2 Units for Measurement of Accessories:

Name Unit

Buttons Per gross

Label Per piece

Zipper Per piece

Tassel Per piece

Card board Per piece

Carton Per piece

Bar code sticker Per piece

Hanger Per piece

Elastic Per meter

Velcro Per meter

Thread Per meter

Interlining Per meter

Fusing Per meter/Yard

Packing tape Per roll


Poly bag Per Kg.

Draw board Per kg.

Paper (drawing sheet for pattern) Per Rim

7.3 Process Flow


TRIMS RECEIVEDTRIMS RECEIVED

PHYSICAL VERIFICATION OF TRIMS

PHYSICAL VERIFICATION OF TRIMS

10% QUALITY AUDIT10% QUALITY AUDIT

100%INSPECTION IF AUDIT FAILS100%INSPECTION IF AUDIT FAILS

STORAGE OF INCOMING GOODSSTORAGE OF INCOMING GOODS

STORAGE OF TRIMS IN APPROPRIATE RACKS

STORAGE OF TRIMS IN APPROPRIATE RACKS

ISSUE TO BATCHESISSUE TO BATCHES

7.4 Standard Operating Procedure

All the Trims like, Zippers, Buttons, Snaps, various types of Labels, Threads,

Tapes, Draw cords, Elastics, “D” Rings are to be checked at the receiving point

for Quantity & Quality. This has to be done O.C. # / P.O. # wise and item wise.

Allot area for “Incoming Goods” and mark on the Rack concerned.

Incoming goods to be stored here.

Allot area for “Inspected O.K. Goods” and mark on the Rack concerned.

All inspected & accepted goods to be stored here.

Allot area for “Rejected goods” (Inspection / Audit failed) to be stored here

and to be disposed off as per instructions.

Allot area for “Inspection” and mark as “Inspection Area”. Provide Table

with White Laminate and light illumination of minimum 1200 lux.

Allot area for “Return to Supplier”. In case of excess material receipt, the

excess material to be returned to supplier. Only 5 % excess material than

ordered should be accepted. The remaining to be returned to supplier. In

case, if excess material received free of cost, this should be accounted

separately as per instructions. )

Display approved Trim Cards, AQL chart, Other Instructions etc in the

Display Board provided.

All incoming Trims must be - 10 % (or AQL 2.5 or as specified) (Random

selection) - checked. If the items fail during Audit, 100 % of the items to

be audited. Results to be recorded in the concerned Formats and

circulated to the specified staff for necessary action.

7.5 Trims Inspection:


1. Quantity check: Compare the Receipt quantity with the Order quantity and

ensure that is O.K. If there is any deviation, please take it up with the

concerned for necessary action.

2. Visual check: Check the items for shade, color, Type, Style, write up

etc., as per Specification sheet. If required, wash the appropriate Trims as

per specification to see that shade variation, bleeding do not take place.

In case of deviation, take it up with the concerned for necessary action.

3. Measurement check: Check the items for measurement to ensure they

confirm to specification.

4. After ensuring that everything is O.K., make the “Trim Card” in specified

sets and get it approved by concerned Marketing Staff and issue it to the

concerned.

5. Issue the materials to the Factory concerned as per O.C. / P.O. copy and

as specified along with “Trim Card”.

7.6 Trims Store In the Factory:

Trims and Accessories Stores at Factories have to make the Quantity check for

all the Items they receive from the Main - Trims & Accessories Stores. Copies of

the Test results are to be received from the Main Stores along with the

consignment for reference. In case, the Tests are not conducted at the Mains

stores, Factory should organize for all the necessary tests and keep the records

for reference.

First of all, the trims store in-charge receives the PO copy. This PO copy

contains various details such as the Sample Date, Prototype Sample,

Order chart, RMR.

The trim store in-charge takes out only the Raw Material Status Report

(RMR). This report gives the details as to the which trims are to be

received, the consumption per garment, the required qty, the qty ordered,

the qty received and the balance left to receive.

There are 2 parts to the trims store.

Stitching Part


Packing Part

The stitching part is executed first. A copy of the RMR is firstly sent to

main stores. The main trim store then sends the trims as per the ordered

quantity with a Delivery Challan.

When the trims are received, the unit checks them and makes an Inward

Challan. 3% extra is always added as for wastage considerations.

The trims store head maintains a Daily Status Report of the trims that are

issued from the main store and the balance left yet to receive. This is

maintained for the internal reference of the trims store.

The inspection of the trims and accessories is done in the main unit itself.

Hence, when the trims are received, they are only stored and issued to the

production at the trims store.

However, for buttons counting is done. Inspection is done in case of

Labels and Shrinkage test for Elastic. Only 1 roll or 1 box in the whole

quantity of the labels received is inspected.

Out of the 1 roll or 1 box, 100 labels are inspected for defects or damages.

If 4 defects are found, it is accepted. If 5 or more defects are

found, then another 100 are checked.

In this 100 again if 4 defects are found, it is accepted. If 5 or

more than 5 defects are found, then the entire lot is rejected.

In case of 100 labels,

40 defective are acceptable.

50 are unacceptable.

And 40-50 are in the decision making process.

The rejected in then sent back to the main store. If the trims are

accepted they are then issued t the production line.

There are many types of labels that are used in the production:

Main Label – has the buyer’s name.

Content Label – contains the content of the fabric.

Size Label – size of the garment is specified

Tab Label – has the logo of the buyer.

ID/Wash care Label – has the wash care instructions for the

garment


For Elastic, the shrinkage test is carried out by the trims store:

In this they measure 1m of the elastic and mark it.

This elastic is then dipped in water for 15-20 mins.

It is then dried naturally.

Then the elastic are measured again.

Then the shrinkage is calculated using the formula:

Shrinkage (%) = [After wash – Before wash)/before wash] *100

The report is made and sent to the merchandiser.

The trim store maintains a trim chart. In this chart following

details are present

–

Fabric swatch

Matching thread for the fabric

- fabric color

- fabric code

Button

Button matching thread

This chart goes to the merchandiser for the approval. The merchandiser

signs the chart and sends back. The shades of the buttons (if present) are

then approved from the buyer and signed.

It should be not known that the buttons are of different shades (in case

they are accepted) and hence, they are stuck to the chart at the backside.

The rest of the trims are not inspected. After this inspection, a meeting is

held between the trim store head, Industrial Engineer Department head,

Production coordinator and the cutting department head.

In this meeting it is decide as to which color and style has to be cut first for

production. This is decided on the trims that are received. As to for which

style and color the trims are available for production.

After the meeting is over, the production starts. The cutting section then

sends a Slip. This slip contains the details – Cut no, Size, Sr no, Lot no,

Qty, Shrinkage, Shade.


This is taken by the feeding helper who maintains a register called the

Cutting Book. All the details of the slip are copied into this book, except the

Shrinkage. The helper also fills in the time.

The store then receives the Requisition Slip which contains the details –

material, Qty indent (required), qty issued and the dept.

The trims and accessories are then issued to the required dept as per the

required qty.

The trim store head also maintains a Stock Ledger.

As soon as the materials are received, the left side of the ledger is

filled up. Details – Date, Received from, DC No, PO No, IC No,

Total receipts

As soon as the materials are issued to the lines, the right side of the

ledger is filled up. Details – Date, Issued to (line no), Regd Sr No,

No of Pcs supplied, Balance left.

After every 2-3 days the stocks are checked.

The trims store also maintains Bin Card. The bin card contains the details of the

trims that are being stored in the rack, how much is issued and the balance.

Details – Date, Received Qty, Date, Line no., issued qty, Balance.


8. FABRIC STORE

Gokaldas Images has a centralized main fabric store located at Tumkur Road. All

fabric and interlining is received by the main fabric store and distributed further to

various units according to required quantity. All the units have fabric sub stores

located in the unit itself.

The fabric main store consists of a fabric in charge, godown in charge, fabric

checker, fabric QC, QA executive, stores assistant, computer operator, DTP

operator and fabric assistants.

8.1 Functions of Fabric Store:

The basic functions of the fabric store are:

Storage and Segregation of Fabric for production.

Storage of dead stock.

Maintain basic stock.

Co-ordinate fabric flow between cutting, processing, and audit department.

Coordination between the Suppliers, Fabric processing, audit and cutting

Department.

Maintain account and documents in order to ensure regular flow of fabric

and no shortage.

Report maintained in the fabric department.

Maintain inspection reports.

Maintain inwards/outwards D.C.

Approval reports about shade variation, width etc.

Lab reports as inspection, GSM value, fastness, shrinkage etc

Fabric status file


8.2 Physical Testing & Inspection:

Fabric is inspected by using a 4 point system. It is a projection of total defects

based on the total number of defects found during inspection of a sample as a

basis for acceptance/rejection criteria. In this point inspection system penalty

points are assigned base on the standard fault. For every type of fault colored

stickers are put, to identify serious defects in the subsequent process.

8.3 Four point Inspection systems:

Fault Size Point Assigned Sticker color

0 to 3 inches 1 Yellow

3 to 6 inches 2 Green

6 to 9 inches 3 Blue

9 & above 4 Red

Acceptance/rejection of fabric:

Penalty points found per 100 meter Action

40 points in power loom fabric Accept the lot

30 points in mill-made and imported fabric Accept the lot

40 – 60 points in power-loom fabric Substandard lot

More than 30 points in mill-made & in imported fabric Rejection of lot

More than 60 points in power-loom fabric Rejection of lot

8.4 Common Fabric Defects Found Are:

Weaving Defects:

Missing picks

End out,


Mixed filling

Mixed ends

Dropped pick

Slubs

Yarn distortion

Weft bar

Pattern fault

Dobby faults

Stop marks

Smash

Holes, etc.

Dyeing/printing/finishing Defects:

Bowing

Color Bleeding

Puckering

Stains

Skewed or biased

Selvedge variation

Scrimp etc.

8.5 Main Fabric Store:

Check for the variations in the fabric.

Physical testing for defects, shades and width variations.

Approval, rejection or sub standardization of fabric lot.

Classification of fabric in various shades


Coordination with store, vendor, merchandiser and Fabric Processing

Departments.

Preparation of swatches mentioning shades and their respective quantity.

The Fabric Audit dept. supplies the fabric for shrinkage check.

The fabric (1 bit) =60*60 cm. Then on that they mark 50”*50” send it to

washing dept. in washing the real shrinkage measure. An Audit check list

is maintained in this section in which all the details of fabric flow right from

delivery to inspection to dispatch to various units is recorded. Fabric in

charge, QAE and Auditor are accountable for upholding of this check list.

The fabric is issued, stored and inspected in the main stores. The fabric is

issued from here to all the other GI units.

First of all the merchandiser sends the Purchase order (PO) sheet to the

fabric sub store head. The required number of pieces (garments) is given

in the sheet.

After this the Fabric Cutting Chart is received from the Cutting section

head. In this chart the meters of fabric required by the cutting room is

given.

After this the sub store in-charge receives the Fabric Width and Shade

Report. Thus according to the various shades, the fabrics are separated

shade wise.

Then the merchandiser sends the Lab Test Report and Shrinkage Report.

This contains the results of the tests that are carried out in the unit lab.

Next the in-charge receives the Fabric Quality Inspection Summary. This

contains the inspection details of the fabric. This report also shows the

status of the fabric.

The in-charge then receives the Mini Marker from the merchandiser. This

is also called the YY Sheet. This sheet contains the quantity of fabric

required per garment (yy = meters/garment).

Based on this the in-charge prepares a chart. This chart contains the fabric

details (Swatch, Color, Order Quantity and the quantity required). The in-

charge calculates the quantity of fabric required after adding the waste

percentage.

2 % is added as a waste percentage for fabric. 3 % is added for the

rejection of garments. Hence, a total of 5 % of the order quantity is added.


This is the total quantity of the fabric required to be ordered from the main

stores.

This chart is sent to the merchandiser and the required quantity of the

fabric is ordered.

8.6 Standard Operating Procedures:

The stores should have the following designated area:-







Allot area for “Return to Supplier”. In case of excess material receipt, the

excess material to be returned to supplier. Only 5 % excess material than

ordered should be accepted. The remaining to be returned to supplier.

(Incase, if excess material received free of cost, this should be accounted

separately as per instructions.)

Allot area for “Inspection” and mark as “Inspection Area”. Provide Fabric

Inspection Machine or Table with White Laminate and light illumination of

minimum 1200 lux.

8.7 Fabric Receipt:

On receipt of Fabric in Ware house, the Fabric had to be checked against the

P.O. #. / O.C. #. (Purchase order No. or Order confirmation No.) to ensure that it

is the right item with right quantity as compared to order quantity, number of

Rolls / Bales , Color etc. These items are to be stored separately in specified

racks after entering these items in the “Stage” software and prepare necessary

“Goods Receipt Note”.


Inform shortages / Excess quantity received to Fabric Department and the

Supplier concerned for necessary action. If the supply exceeds 105 % of the

order quantity, organize to return the excess quantity to the Supplier.

8.8 Fabric Inspection - 4 Point system:

The Fabric received are to be checked using “4 Point system” by using the “

Fabric checking machine” or Table. As far as possible avoid use of Tables for

checking. Display the various types of defects for easy reference of the Checker.

The acceptance criteria for various fabrics like “ Mill made “, “ Power Loom ” and

“ Hand Loom ” vary and hence use the right criteria ( points ) as specified by

Buyer / Fabric Department. A minimum of 10 % of the Rolls (Random selection)

are to be checked. If the defect level exceeds the allowed limit, 100 % of the

Rolls may be inspected after getting approval from concerned.

Display Fabric defect standards (clearly marked “Acceptable” and “Not

Acceptable”) and the criteria points per sq. yard / meters for passing the rolls /

bales as accepted or rejected.

Utilize SPC technique for Inspection of Fabric and prepare “U” chart for all the

lots inspected. Display the defects like, Bowing – CSV, End to end shade

variation, Defect Standards etc and “ Acceptable ” and “ Not Acceptable”.

In case, the Fabric rolls / bales gets rejected ( for reasons of defects, shade

variation, shrinkage variation more than allowed limits ) they are to be stored in

the specified rack marked “Rejected Items”. Follow the procedure, laid out for

returning the rejected items to the Supplier.

Raise the “Goods Inspection Note” for the passed items as specified. Store the

Fabric with proper Identification Tag (containing details like O.C. No./ P.O. No.,

date of receipt, Delivery note no., quantity received, number of rolls / bales,

Shade details , Type of Fabric, Supplier details etc.). Office records should

record the Rack number, where the item is stored for easy trace ability.. Single


item should be kept in single rack location and never mix up fabrics of different

O.C.’s / P.O.’s.

Prepare Report in specified format and send it to the concerned (like Fabric

Department, Marketing Department etc.). In case of deviation / short supply,

highlight it, to take necessary action.

Samples for Shade Band:

Cut approximately 7 inches x 3 inches samples from each roll. Write the Roll no./

Bale no. in each sample along with O.C. No./ P.O. No., supplier, date of receipt ,

width etc. Mark grain direction. Make shade band of the Rolls received and

accepted. Similarly make 4 to 6 sets of shade Bands for distribution as specified

to Marketing and Factories. Marketing department will take it up with the Fabric

Manager / Buyers Representative and provide the shade category (like shade A,

shade B etc). Use Light Box with specified Light for shade segregation.

If any center to selvedge shade variation problem occurs, such rolls are

marked separately and should be advised to the CAD and Cutting section for

revised Pattern Layout.

8.9 Samples for Laboratory Testing:

Cut 1 meter length of fabric from each lot, mark Grain direction and sent it to

Laboratory to conduct the following test.

1. Shrinkage Test.

2. Color Fastness test.

3. Rubbing Test - Dry & Wet.

4. Count & Construction.

Record the Test results and file the Test certificate. Issue one copy of Test

certificates to Marketing department for their action.


8.10 Storing and Issue to Factories:

Based on the above information from Lab and Marketing, it is preferable to

segregate the Rolls / Bales in various Shades and Group Shrinkage percentage

wise and store them in the specified Racks with proper Identification Tag. This

procedure is useful to avoid mix-up of various shades and shrinkage bands. The

stores register should contain all the relevant details along with the Rack no,

(where it is stored).

While issuing to Production, issue as per shade band and shrinkage segregation

wise. Issue the Shade band along with the materials to Factories.

8.11 Maintenance of Machines:

All machines used in the Fabric ware house like, Fabric Inspection machine etc

should carry Maintenance card and Preventive Maintenance card duly filled

in.


9. FABRIC STORE AT FACTORIES:

9.1 Process Flow


FABRIC ROLL SEGREGGATION

PREPARATION OF CUTTABLE RATIO

ISSUE TO CUTTING SECTION

FABRIC RECEIVED FROM H/O

FABRIC INSPECTION

O.K. FABRIC DEFECTIVE FABRIC

STORAGE OF FABRIC REJECTED GOODS RACK

FABRIC RELAXATION RETURN BACK TO H/O

9.2 Operating Procedure:

The stores should have the following designated area:-







Allot area for “Inspection” and mark as “Inspection Area”. Provide Fabric

Inspection Machine or Table with White Laminate and light illumination of

minimum 1200 lux. Whenever the lighting level decrease, change the

Tube light bulbs.

9.2 Fabric Receipt:

Check & compare the Fabric quality & quantity received with “Delivery Note”

against each O.C. #. / P.O. #. and inform the deviations to the concerned.

Record the receipt along with storage location. Check the actual rolls / bales with

the “Shade band card” came along with the Fabric. If required prepare “Shade

band card” for the with details of roll number, length, shade number and issue it

to Cutting section and other sections concerned for their reference. Store the

material in Racks with proper Identification Tag as mentioned earlier. The Fabric

receipt register to have the location of the Rack, where the fabric is stored.

Under no circumstance, the Fabric should be kept on Floor.

The following Test / Inspection procedure to be followed - O.C / P.O. wise - for

the Fabric Rolls / Bales received for easy trace ability.


7.3 Fabric Inspection:

If the Fabric already under went 4-point inspection system in Fabric Ware house,

collect and keep the copy of Inspection report & copy of Test results for all the

Rolls / Bales received. If Fabric is not inspected using 4 point system, organize

for Inspection as mentioned earlier. Display the type of defect and their

acceptance level wherever required for each and every O.C / P.O. Inform the

Test results of the Fabric received to all concerned for necessary action. Display

Fabric defect standards (clearly marked “Acceptable” and “Not Acceptable”)

7.4 Shrinkage Test - (Rigid Fabric – Wash Program)

1. Shrinkage Test to be conducted for 10 % (Random selection) of the Rolls /

Bales (unless otherwise specified).

2. Cut swatches from the Rolls / Bales received as specified to size 28

inches x 28 inches. It is preferable to use Metal Template # 1, for cutting

the swatches.

3. Identify the Face side and back side. Mark the Roll #, O.C. / P.O. # date

received on the back side of the swatch. Mark

4. Make 25 inches square Metal Template # 2. Mark horizontally and

vertically on the sides of the square. The length of lines may be 2 inches

more or less at the center of the sides. This means the distance between

horizontal lines, and the distance between verticals should be equal to 25

inches.

5. Bartack on the lines which are at 25” x 25”.

6. Over lock the edges of the swatch panels.

7. Wash the Swatch panel as per the “Wash Standard” given in the

“Technical Specification” manual or specified by Marketing Department /

Buyer.

8. Using Iron Box, iron lightly without using steam to make the washed

swatch flat.

9. Measure the distance between the Horizontal and Vertical Bartacks using

Stainless steel scale and record the reading.


10.Calculate the Washing shrinkage percentage both horizontally and

vertically (i.e. on warp side and weft side) and record it for each and every

swatch. Compile the Roll / Bale wise shrinkage in the prescribed format.

Record this information in each Identification Tags in each Roll (along with

shade category).

11.Check the Washing shrinkage percentage “Range”. If the “Range” is more

than 1.5 % , the Shrinkage Test to be conducted for all the Rolls / Bales

received ( i.e. 100% of rolls )

12.Check again the Washing Shrinkage percentage. For each 1.5 % step of

absolute shrinkage , Multiple Markers to be prepared. ( for example , for

absolute Shrinkage % range of 3.0 % to 4.5 % - Marker / Pattern # 1 ,

and for shrinkage of 4.5 % to 6 % - Marker / Pattern # 2- like that ).

Segregate and store the Fabric as per their Shrinkage - Marker / Pattern

range ( steps of 1.5% ).

13.Organize with Pattern Department for the preparation of Multiple Markers

based on Shrinkage level. The Marker / Pattern should contain Shrinkage

range for which they are prepared along with other information.

14.Color codifies the range of Shrinkage (steps of 1.5 %) for easy tractability

during the subsequent process. This information should be available in

the respective Patterns and “Specification sheet “.

Note: In case the shrinkage range happens to be within 1.5 %, against Pattern #,

put “–” (dash - indicating that there is only one Marker / Pattern for

the P.O.)

9.5 Shade segregation for non- wash fabric: (Stretch & Rigid)

1. Cut swatches from all the Rolls / Bales received as specified to size 30

cms x 30 cms. It is preferable to use Metal Template for cutting the

swatches.


received on the back side of the swatch.

3. Using Light box with specified Light, segregate the swatches to visible

shade Category. .


4. Fabric Manager segregates the Rolls / Bales as Shade category as

“A”, “B”, “C” etc based on the shade of each Roll / Bale ( may be in

consultation with Marketing department / Buyers representative ).

5. Group the Rolls / Bales as shade category of “A”, “B”, “C” etc. Color code

each shade category. Write the shade category in the Identification Tags

on each roll / bale and color code it. The swatch card issued to Cutting

section, Sewing section, Finishing section, Packing section and Q.A.

Department should also contain this color codification ( along with

Shrinkage % ).

6. Cutting section: - Cut the Rolls / Bales shade wise as per the required

“Ratio” (of sizes during final packing). Cuttable ratio and quantity should be

informed to Marketing, Q.A. department and Buyers representative in

advance for approval.

7. Cutting section: - Mention shade category (“A”, “B”, “C” etc) on the Cut

Panels. Color code the shade category during Bundling.

8. Sewing section: - Identification Tag used in Sewing section should have

the shade category mentioned in it for trace ability purpose.

9. Packing section: - Packing should be done in such a way that one Carton

should contain only one shade category of Garments.

Note 1: In case , there is no shade variation , against Shade # , put “ –” ( dash

- indicating that there is only one Shade for the O.C / P.O.).

Note 2: Shrinkage test to be done for 10 % of the Pocketing fabric.

7.6 Shade segregated for wash program: (Stretch & Rigid)

1. Cut swatches from all the Rolls / Bales received as specified to size 30

cms x 30 cms. It is preferable to use Metal Template for cutting the

swatches.




3. In case of Denim Fabric, join all the swatches by over lock to make a

Blanket.

4. Wash the Swatch Blanket as per specified wash program.

5. Fabric Manager segregates the Rolls / Bales as Shade category as “A”,

“B”, “C” etc based on the shade of each Roll / Bale by viewing under Light

Box with specified Lamp.

6. Group the Rolls / Bales as shade category of “A”, “B”, “C” etc. Color code

each shade category. Write the shade category in the Identification Tags

on each roll / bale and color code it. The swatch card issued to Cutting

section should also contain this color codification (along with Shrinkage

%).

7. Cutting section: - Cut the Rolls / Bales shade wise as per the required

“Ratio” (of sizes during final packing).

8. Cutting section: - Mention shade category (“A”, “B”, “C” etc) on the Cut

Panels. Color code the shade category during Bundling.

9. Sewing section: - Identification Tag used in sewing section should have

the shade category mentioned in it for trace ability purpose.

10.Segregate Garments shade wise, bundle it separately, before dispatching

to Laundry to undergo specified wash program. (Mention wash program in

Identification Tag along with other information like O.C./ P.O.# etc.).

11.Washing Plant: - Wash Garment shade wise with different “Recipes”

(developed already) to bring all shades to one common standard shade.

12.Packing section: - Packing should be done in such a way that one Carton

should contain only one shade category of Garments.

13.The shade band cards should be available with Cutting, Sewing, Finishing,

Packing, Q.A. Department, Marketing and Buyers representative.

Note: In case , there is no shade variation , against Shade # , put “ –” ( dash -

indicating that there is only one Shade for the O.C / P.O.)


9.7 IRONING SHRINKAGE TEST FOR RIGID FABRIC:

1. Shrinkage Test to be conducted for 10 % (Random selection) of the Rolls /

Bales (unless otherwise specified).

2. Cut swatches from the Rolls / Bales received as specified to size 28

inches x 28 inches. It is preferable to use Metal Template # 1, for cutting

the swatches.



4. Make 25 inches square Metal Template # 2. Mark horizontally and

vertically on the sides of the square. The length of lines may be 2 inches

more or less at the center of the sides. This means the distance between

horizontal lines, and the distance between verticals should be equal to 25

inches.

5. Bartack on the lines which are at 25” x 25”.

6. Over lock the edges of the swatch panels.

7. Iron the Fabric Swatch as per the specified “Ironing Standard “.

8. Measure the distance between the Horizontal and Vertical Bartacks using

Stainless steel scale and record the reading.

9. Calculate the Ironing shrinkage percentage both horizontally and vertically

(i.e. on warp side and weft side) and record it for each and every swatch.

Compile the Roll / Bale wise shrinkage in the prescribed format. Record

this information in each Identification Tags in each Roll (along with shade

category etc.)

10.Check the Iron shrinkage percentage “Range”. If the “Range” is more than

1.5 % , the Shrinkage Test to be conducted for all the Rolls / Bales

received ( i.e. 100% of rolls )

11.Check again the Ironing Shrinkage percentage. For each 1.5 % step of

absolute shrinkage, Multiple Markers to be prepared. (for example, for

absolute Shrinkage % range of 0.0 % to 1.5 % - Marker / Pattern #I 1 ,

and for shrinkage of 1.5 % to 4.5 % - Marker / Pattern # I 2- like that -

here I represent pattern accounting for Iron Shrinkage ). Segregate and

store the Fabric as per their Ironing Shrinkage - Marker / Pattern range

(steps of 1.5%).


12.Organize with Pattern Department for the preparation of Multiple Markers

based on Shrinkage level. The Marker / Pattern should contain Shrinkage

range for which they are prepared along with other information.

13.Color codifies the range of Shrinkage (steps of 1.5 %) for easy tractability

during the subsequent process. This information should be available in

the respective Patterns and “Specification sheet “.

Note: In case the Iron shrinkage range happen to be within 1.5 %, against

Pattern # , put “ –” ( dash - indicating that there is only one Marker / Pattern for

the P.O.). Rarely ironing shrinkage exceeds 1.5 %.


10. CUTTING DEPARTMENT

The first stage in the manufacture of garment is the cutting of the material into

the necessary pattern shapes. This is the place where the raw material enters the

production chain. This is the place where most critical elements of cost dance to

the music of production. This is the “Cutting Room”. And, the aim is process

optimization control wastage. Increase efficiency wastage in the cutting room

happens in the form of uncontrolled end wastage, unscientific splicing, improper

marker and operator inefficiency. Bottlenecks increase the throughput time, which

is a significant loss on the critical time. Cutting is the primary level of activity in

the production process. Efficiency of entire unit can depends on the cutting

section.

A good as well as a bad garment can be associated with the cutting

section. The problem could be curbed and corrected at the first stage before

reaching the sewing section. Cutting production starts with the receipt of raw

materials /fabric and then the actual conversion of raw materials to various

shapes on the basis of marker drawn. The cut parts are bundled on the basis of

color, size, style etc. cutting section hence is the backbone of the unit and that is

why this section needs to be taken well care of.

Points to be considered:

Check for the presence of master pattern before commencing the bulk

cutting.

All the patterns received by the factory should be thoroughly checked for

notches, seam allowances, and alignment with other panels

All markers made for cutting should be either duplicate at the factory or by

using multiple carbons

Each pattern should have a grain line marking


10.1 Process Flow:


MARKER PLANNINGMARKER PLANNING

MARKER CHECKINGMARKER CHECKING

FABRIC REQUISITION & RECEIVALFABRIC REQUISITION & RECEIVAL

LAYINGLAYING

MARKER MAKINGMARKER MAKING

QUALITY AUDITQUALITY AUDIT

LAY RELAXATIONLAY RELAXATION

MANUAL MARKINGMANUAL MARKING

NAMING OF PANELSNAMING OF PANELS

CUTTINGCUTTING

QUALITY AUDITQUALITY AUDIT

SOBAR NUMBERINGSOBAR NUMBERING

10.2 Functions:

To make the cut order plan for all type of fabrics i.e. shell, lining, interlining

according to the PO

Getting the markers made from the CAD

Checking the patterns with the actual patterns

Draw manual markers

Getting the fabric issued from the stores according to the cut order plan

Laying the fabric

Meeting the requirement of the sewing department by providing them with

the cut panels on the right time

Ticketing and bundling of the cut panels

Returning the remnant roll to the stores

Maintaining the records

Checking the quality of the cut panels


100% PARTS CHECKING100% PARTS CHECKING

FUSING (IF NECESSARY)FUSING (IF NECESSARY)

PARTS REPLACEMENTPARTS REPLACEMENT

BUNDLINGBUNDLING

CUT PART STORAGECUT PART STORAGE

ISSUE TO BATCHESISSUE TO BATCHES

The work for cutting department starts right from the point of order confirmation.

The CAD department prepares the marker length using the pattern and the

sample prepared by the Sampling Department. It also makes estimation for the

consumption of the fabric for that particular order. The results then communicated

to merchandiser.

Once the order gets confirmed for bulk production then first they cut the garment

component for the pilot run. Once it is over then the Cutting, The IED, Sewing,

and Planning Department sits together to decide the no. of pieces to be cut and

supplied in advance, in accordance with the productivity derived for that style

from the pilot run.

The cutting department, 1 or 2 days in advance from the cutting date procures

the fabric then the fabric issued to the spreader is properly laid according to the

specified marker length and width. The number of piles depends upon the type of

Fabric, its thickness, cutting method and the desired height of lay. The no. of

plies also depends on type of fabric and weight.

After the fabric is laid QC checks the lay for the defects like Leaning, alignment,

Uneven Tension, Narrow goods, and other fabric defects. Then the marker is

spread on the top of the lay. Stickers including all the details as PO no, cut no,

style no, part name, part number and sizes is affixed on the top of the lay of all

individual parts. Before cutting the last inspection of lay has been done to check

that the marker is coming well in the lay’s width and length so it can properly cut.

Cutting room is one of the core areas in any garment organization. As a unit

cutting room has a greater effect on excessive manufacturing cost than any other

department concerned with the actual production of garments.

10.3 Documents and reports maintained in the cutting section:

1. Cutting chart

2. Mini marker


3. Fabric requisition slip

4. Table plan

5. Minusing register

6. Lay slip

7. Lay order report

8. Spreading quality report

9. Cutting quality report

10.Hourly report of numbering

11.Hourly report of fusing

12.Re-cutting register

13.Hourly report of sorting and bundling

14.Cut parts issue register

15.Parts bank (cut panels)

16.Fabric completion report

10.4 SORTING AND BUNDLING:

The role of Sorting Department in the Factory is to coordinate and facilitate

production in the Sewing Department. After cutting sorting takes place where

numbered stickers are put on all parts of the garment according to the lays i.e. all

cut parts from one Lay are given one number. Sorting Department is labor

intensive since the work involves selection and bundling requires human

discretion.

The process is bundling where all cut parts are made in to bundles. If Fusing is

required in some parts (as collar, Neckband, placket, and cuff) it takes place

before bundling but after Sorting.

10.5 Operating Procedures:

Relaxation of Stretch Fabric:

1. Unwind fabric from Roll and lay on Table / Flat area in concentric folds. It

is preferable to stager the folds (for Denim rolls – it is a must). Allow for 24


hours of relaxation. The Lay should not touch any other item and nothing

should be kept on the lay which may prevent normal relaxation. The idea

is to see that, “stretch” occurred during the time of converting into “Roll”

form, returns to its normal condition. Generally the Rolls are wound in

tight condition to save volume & space.

2. Attach the Relaxation History Tag to each and every roll that is relaxed

indicating the O.C. / P.O. #, Type of Fabric, Length & width of roll, Date

& starting time of relation, Date and ending time of relaxation etc.

3. After allowing for 24 hour relaxation, the roll is ready for Laying &

Spreading. Enter the Actual Date and ending time of relaxation in the Tag.

4. Lay and spread the Fabric as per Lay Slip and specification.

5. Allow a minimum of 3 to 6 hours in the Spread condition as “Lay

Relaxation” before any other operation takes place.

6. Check for spreading quality. Perform the subsequent operations like Mark

/ lay C.A.D. Marker etc., as usual.

10.6 Fusing Section:

1. Cut Fabric Swatch with Square Template of size 12 inches x 12 inches.

2. Get the specified Interlining and cut it to size.

3. Fuse the Fabric and Interlining with specified Temperature, Pressure, and

Time.

4. Allow for relation of the Fusing.

5. Measure the size and find out the Fusing Shrinkage and record it. Inform

to concerned people like Patter section for necessary action. Check for

Shade variation if any due to Fusing. If you observe any shade variation,

take it up with the concerned for necessary corrective action.

6. Wash the Swatch as per “wash program standard” or as specified.

7. Check the Fusing for fusing defects like – Peel off, Bubbles etc. Inform the

deviations / defects if any to the concerned for necessary corrective action.

8. Display the Swatch, Interning, and Fused swatch in the Board.


Note: All the reference cards should be displayed in the concerned Display

Boards and Files should be available in the concerned places.

10.7 Maintenance of Machines:

All machines used in the Cutting section like, Spreading machine, Cutting

machine, Band Knife, Fusing machine etc should carry Maintenance card and

Preventive Maintenance card duly filled in.

General Points to be observed:

The following points to be taken care of in the Cutting section:-

Display SOP‘s in English and Local language.

Display approved Garment: – In case of critical styles with specific line

placements, required layout of parts to be highlighted and displayed for

easy reference and access to all.

Fabric and Management Report: – To be recorded & displayed against

each O.C. / P.O. – (a) all Fabric status details style / color wise, (b)

Shade swatches, color standards duly approved , (c) Parts replacement

% style wise.

Cutting CAD Marker: - All Markers to be generated by CAD. Authenticity of

the same is being confirmed by Cutting Room Auditor. Markers to be color

coded in case of Multiple Pattern usage (due to variation in shrinkage).

Bar Numbering: - All panels to be numbered using Bar Stickers. Color

code So Baring in case of multiple pattern usage.

Storage of Cut parts: - Use Flat racks for storing cut parts. Mobile cut

parts storage also to be use. Use polythene bags to prevent dust and

stains.

Quality control: - Defined Quality control procedure in practice and record

to be available.

Notches on Patterns: - Process Audit to be done by Department Auditor.

Cut Panel Audit :- Cutting section QA to audit all cut parts, top, middle and

bottom with the original pattern and record findings and initiate corrective

action as required.


Cut Panel Inspection: - Cut panel inspection to be conducted in a

separate area in the department. The defect standards to be displayed at

this area, style wise acceptable, not acceptable clearly marked &

displayed separately. Replacement of defective parts to take place from

the same rolls. Record of % replacement of parts to be maintained with

clear record for shade and shrinkage category.

Fabric Laying / Relaxation :- Relaxation / Lay start / Lay end / Cutting

start time to be record in case of stretch fabric

Fabric Laying / Spreading: - Fabric laying / spreading is to be audited and

recorded.

Fusing setting requirement: - Fusible lining compatibility reports confirming

the Temperature / Pressure / Time to be displayed along with sample.

Machine Maintenance record to be displayed.

Fusing Records: - Temperature setting, bonding strength to be audited

and recorded 4 times per day on fixed times. The first tests to start at the

start of the fusing followed at 2 Hours intervals. The days record to be

available on display.

It is preferable to cover all the Fabric Swatches with transparent

polyethylene sheet to prevent dust etc.

All the Inspection and Checking area to be provide with a minimum of

1200 Lux light level. Whenever the lighting level decreases, change the

Tube light bulbs. The Table tops to be of white laminated.


11. SEWING DEPARTMENT

The final garment comes out of a sewing department because of a set of well-

coordinated steps in each of the batches. It is the most dynamic department of

all. The layout, machines, batch size, no. of Batches, method of operation, no. of

workers on the floor etc can get changed according to the new style, order

quantity or production plan.

Once the Order gets confirmed for a particular style the planning department

comes in to action. It planned in well advance that which unit is going for

Production as well as the Quantity. It allocates the quantity & job order to different

units based on their capacity.

Then the IED Department in collaboration with Factory Manager, decides the

batch size, number of Batches and daily target to be achieved by the each batch.

Other details such as no of stitches/inch at different areas, measurement for

different sizes, placement of trims etc are finalized and standardized at the

sampling stage.

11.1 Reports maintained by Sewing Department

Daily production report

Purchase order sheet

Folders send by IED for every P.O.

Manpower report

Hourly production report

Monthly labor report

Batch order completion

Batch planning file

Cutting loading book

Time and motion study


11.2 FUNCTION OF SEWING DEPARTMENT

The shift starts at 9:30 am in the morning. The inline quality controller

checks the un-finished pieces of the garment and check against the

original sample garment.

The line supervisor check the hourly production of each part of the

garment and also check the daily production status which have details

regarding line numbers, order details, particular regarding man power and

the machine available , line’s expected and actual target operation target ,

WIP and the operator daily operation output

The supervisor also ensures that necessary thread, label and tapes are

available with operator.

The target is hanged in each line for a particular style of a garment.

The pieces are inspected carefully and then feed into line.

They check the 1st ply, middle ply and last ply in a cut-piece bundle at the

time of feeding or when cut pieces arrives in sewing room.

The pieces are marked and notched by template for the particular

operation at the time of feeding or inline process.

When major problem arises in the line during production then quality

people put the check point over there for finding the reason for the

problem and solving the problem.

11.3 Process flow


11.4 Sewing


P.O.WISE PLANNINGP.O.WISE PLANNING

M/C LAYOUTM/C LAYOUT

BATCH SETTINGBATCH SETTING

PILOT RUNPILOT RUN

BULK PRODUCTIONBULK PRODUCTION

100% CHECKING100% CHECKING

DISPATCH TO FINISHING SECTION.

DISPATCH TO FINISHING SECTION.

The operator in the lines have been trained on the operations they are

required to perform and have been given specific instruction as to how to carry

out the operation for each style. They have also been taught certain technical

aspects of sewing such as stitch length, bight width, and thread tension etc. so

that they can tell at once if at all there are any problems with their machines.

They have also been taught minor adjustment so that time is not wasted in calling

the service technicians.

Each operator is responsible for his/her own workmanship and thus, has

the responsibility of checking the quality of sewing as the operator is performed.

Moreover a Job card is hanged on the machine for showing mock stitch sample.

PROCESS 1: Feeding to the batches/sewing lines

Receive Cut panels from sorting section and verify against the delivery

note.

Panels are stored style wise / color wise /size wise with identification.

Line plan is received from the Supervisor/Floor in charge.

Cut panels are issued to the batches according to the Line plan.

Trims are collected from Sub stores and issued to the batches according

to the cut panels issued by Sorting.

Entry is made n the register and report t given o the Supervisor/ Floor in

charge.

The Order completion report is prepared after the completion of the order.

Approval is taken from Production Manager / Floor in charge and handed

over OCR to the Execution team and materials to the Stores.

PROCESS 2: Production Monitoring during the sewing process

The attendance is counted and updated on the board

The On-date target on the production sheet and the board based on

information from IED is written.

The hourly production in the production sheet is noted down.


Divide the past pieces size wise from end of the table and issue to helper

for bundling.

Notify the hourly production operation wise to the supervisor, floor in

charge and assistant production manager.

The production details are written on the board kept in the Batch and the

main board.

The information on machine breakdown, no cut panel/material feeding,

pending pieces, batch setting idle time is collected for every work.

The report of on-date batch loading, production and balance production is

sent to the Production manager.

PROCESS 3: Rework Monitoring plans

Defective piece is identified by the operator/checker/QC.

The details of the piece and the type of defect identified, is recorded in the

format.

A red arrow sticker is put on the garment and kept separately from the WIP.

The Supervisor is notified and possibility of alteration is looked into.

o If Alteration possible

The alteration is done depending on the type of the defect

found.

The alteration is verified and approval from QC is taken

The altered piece is issued to the next process.

o If Alteration is not possible

The defective piece is sent for review by the supervisor.

The piece is sent to the Cutting/Finishing with delivery note.

Raise requirement for Re-cut and inform cutting section

The re-cut panels are received from cutting.


The following procedures are followed in the Sewing section. These are to be

displayed on a Display Board kept at the end of the Batch.


11.5.1 Style Analysis & Line Plan:

For each and every O.C. / P.O, Style Analysis has to be made , stating

the sequence of operations, Sewing machines to be used, Folders,

Attachments, Presser Foots etc to be used. All critical operations to be marked.

Line Plan show the actual sequence of operations, number of stations for each

operations or combination of operations. This will also show the Marker

positions, Iron Table positions, Quality checking positions.

11.5.2 Pre-Production Sample:

Pre-Production Samples has to be made with materials as specified in the

O.C. / P.O. These samples have to be checked for Measurements, Visual

Defects, Stitching defects, shape etc. Send the samples to the Buyers

representative and get his comments. Re-stitch the garment, if the comments

are major otherwise; take care of the minor comments during actual production. If

required, modify the “Patterns” to take care of measurement deviations and

shape. Take care of the non-conformances with appropriate department. Since

bulk production is going to be based on the pre-production, sufficient care has to

be taken and important points to be noted down for future use.

11.5.3 Size set / Pilot Run:

Conduct the Pilot Run and Size set in the actual Sewing Batch set for the

particular O.C. / P.O. Pilot run quantity should be for a minimum of 25 garments.

It is preferable to cover all the sizes during the Pilot run. Check the garments for

Measurement, visual defects, materials used, Fusing defects, right type of

Folder / Attachment / Pressure Foot usage etc. If the garment has a “Wash

program”, check the garment after specified wash for the above. Check for

shrinkage, shade variation, bleeding properties, breakage of stitches, damages to

Trims etc. Involve Buyers representative, Head office Q.A. During the Pilot run

and get their approval. Modify the “Patterns / Multi Patterns”, etc based on the

actual shrinkage observed during Fusing, Ironing, Washing. During Pilot run


stage, ensure that all the materials required are available, based on the Pilot Run

experience (especially the actual fabric requirement, requirement of other Trims,

Threads etc). In case if you observe any non-conformance, take it up with the

concerned immediately to avoid confusion at a later stage.

11.5.4 Pre-Production Meeting & Minutes:

Pre-Production Meeting to be conducted at the Factory with members

from Buying Office, Factory Quality section, Head office Quality Department,

Cutting section, Sewing section, Finishing section along with Plant Manger and

Production Manger. In the meeting these points should be taken care of during

bulk production for better productivity and Quality. Modification in Measurement

chart, concession offered by Buyers representative etc to be duly signed by them

for further use. The minutes to be prepared for future reference.

11.5.5 Job Description & Mocks:

Job description and Mocks to be prepared for each and every operation,

including the Marking & In-line Ironing. Mocks to be prepared by the actual

Operator on the machine for that particular operation and the Mock to be

approved by the Line Supervisor, Mechanic and Q.A. Critical operations are to

be marked clearly, Seam allowance & SPI to be mentioned, such that due care

can be taken during the process of manufacturing. The job description should

contain details like, name of Operation, Machine used, Needle used, Color & type

and ticket number of Thread used. Stitches per Inch, etc.

11.5.6 Machine setting Card / Maintenance Card / Preventive Maintenance:

Each machine to have the Machine setting card, detailing the SPI, Presser

foot, Attachments , Folders, Guides, Jigs and their specification, seam

allowance, needle details etc. Record the Settings done on that machine, each

and every time with date and time.


The Maintenance card to contain the name of machine, type of machine,

make of machine, machine number, details of maintenance done with date and

time, details of preventive maintenance done with date and time.

11.5.7 In-Line Ironing Tables:

It is preferable to have Iron Tables with Vacuum suction as In-line Iron Tables.

Wherever required use right type of Bucks’ The Template used to have the

marking of the Patter # with colour code in case of Multiple patterns ( based on

shrinkage ) along with other details like O.C #./P.O. # etc.

11.5.8 Attachments / Folders / Guides / Jigs:

Style Analysis should be done before the PP sample and necessary

Attachments / Folders / Guides / Jigs – with specification required to be found out

and organized well in advance. These details should be recorded.

Sewing Allowance guide to be attached to all the Over Lock machines.

Material Handling Equipment:

Where ever required Material Handling Equipments like, Movable Trolleys,

Hanging Rails, Movable Clip Hanger rails, Cut parts trolley, Sewing line trolley,

Gravity Chutes, Slant Trays, Trays, Telescopic Bars , Bin Trolleys & Bins,

Racks , etc to be provided for easy handling and to avoid stains etc.

Maintenance of these Equipments is equally important. Remove the “Thread

pieces” from the Wheels of the Trolleys. Clean this equipment at least once in a

week to prevent dirt, dust, etc. Oil the moving parts like wheels and take care to

see that the spillage of Oil do not spoil the Garments.

11.5.9 Quality control in sewing line:

All the Inspection and Checking area to be provide with a minimum of 1200 Lox

light level. Whenever the lighting level decreases, change the Tube light bulbs.

The Tables to be of White Laminate.


11.5.10 In-Line Process control:

Follow the Random Sampling Technique method of In-line checking of all the

operations and more care to taken for the critical operations. Use Statistical

Process Control tools and prepare “Attribute Control Charts” for – visual defects

and “Variable Control Charts” for Measurements. Monitor the Charts at regular

intervals and take necessary correction action immediately.

11.5.11 End-Line Inspection:

All garments are to be 100 % checked at this point and necessary corrective

action to be taken. To enable proper checking display the “ Approved Garment

”, Buyers comments on the approved Samples , Trim card , Fabric Swatch card,

Fabric defect standards ( clearly marked “ Acceptable ” and “ Not Acceptable ” ).

Display all the relevant files and details as instructed from time to time.

Attach a Follow up card, which details the nature of defect and the remedial

action taken. This will ensure that the Garment has been rectified and free from

defect.

11.5.12 Measurement Control:

Display the Measurement chart / In-process Measurement chart (in case

of wash program), Diagram showing the method of measurement etc. Multiple

Pattern Category # and their shrinkage ranges with color coding. Measure at

least 10 % of the Garments produced for the day. Prepare “Variable Control

chart” for necessary corrective action.

Sewing Supervisors , Production Mangers and Q.A.’s should regularly- at least

4 times in a day - see the In-Line and End Batch check sheets and take

necessary corrective action. These corrective actions are to be recorded at the

back of these check sheets.

Statistical data on DHU (Defects per 100 units). Like Daily line defect %, Weekly

%, Month % etc to be collected and analyzed Graphs, Bar charts, Histogram etc

to be drawn for analysis.


11.6 FACTORY PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING

1. PP Meeting is held 5 days prior to starting production, this includes cutting.

2. It is Factory Manager’s responsibility to schedule all PP Meetings

3. All PP Meetings must be attended by following personnel:

a. Factory Manager

b. Production Manager

c. Quality Assurance Manager

d. Cutting Room Manager

e. Senior Supervisor

f. Industrial Engineer

g. Head Mechanic

h. Roving QC

i. End line QC

j. Finishing Manager

4. In order to hold the meeting, the following items must be available:

a. Style file, incorporating tech spec

b. Approved sample, signed and stamped

c. Trim card (approved for bulk production)

d. Fabric swatch (approved for bulk production) including shade

bands. Swatch must clearly define face side with approval stamp

e. Approved mending of embroidery(with approved thread colors)

f. Approved wash standards, and/or any treatments required, e.g.

Sand blasting/tints/abrasion etc.

g. Cut work for factory

5. Each department is responsible for providing the relevant

information/items.

6. Each department must ensure all relevant information/items are available

and handed to planning department two days before PP Meeting is

scheduled.

7. PP Meeting schedule is issued by Planning Department

8. Every Meeting is documented with:

a. Personnel attended


b. Notes/observation/areas of concern

9. Two factory PP samples are made after the meeting and before production

starts

a. The line supervisor is responsible for making factory PP samples

and Roving QC will assist on any quality/technical issues

b. The line supervisor and roving QC are responsible for measuring

and evaluating PP Sample. All measurements comments are

documented on the Factory PP evaluation sheet.

10.The factory pp sample must be evacuated and approved by technical

department before the production starts. Production will not be allowed to

start until this procedure has been satisfied and sample has been

approved.

11.7 Factory Pilot Run

1. Factory has to proceed with production once Factory PP Sample is

approved.

2. Cutting room must ensure a minimum pilot is cut, 10 pieces per size to be

issued for style introduction.

3. If fusing is required, check fusing conditions and shrinkage at this stage.

Findings are recorded.

4. Sewing floor proceeds with style introduction ensuring that all pieces are

fed through the line.

5. Sewing floor starts the sewing of the pilot pieces following the technical

specifications.

11.8 PILOT EVALUATION PROCEDURES:

1. Pilot evaluation is conducted on all first offline garments

2. Representatives of Quality and Production departments are present during

the evaluation.

3. Garments are checked for correct trims/labeling etc.

4. Garments are checked against tech specification for construction.

5. Garments are checked for quality conformance to customer standards and

tolerances.


6. Garments are checked for measurement against approved size chart

7. After that, tolerances and standards for bulk production are agreed by all

those who are present there.

8. QA Manager and Pressing Supervisor then establish pressing methods

and standards.

9. QA Manager and Pressing Supervisor check the garment for

measurement after pressing.

10.QA Manager and Packing Supervisor ensure packing standard set.

Garment must have correct hanger, swing tickets, price tickets etc.

11.Garments from first offline are held as bulk standard at end line inspection,

final inspection, pressing and packing. All must have Pilot evaluation

reports attached.

11.9 QUALITY CONTROL- System/Procedures

11.9.1 TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM:

Green : Good – workmanship to correct quality standards (0 faults found)

Yellow: Minor – warning, workmanship in danger of falling below required

quality standard (1 minor fault found) and it includes excessive hanging

thread.

Red : Major – workmanship below specified quality standards (1 or

more major faults found)

PROCEDURES:

Alert Green:

Step 1. Roving QC examines 7-10 pieces

Step 2. Zero faults found

Step 3. Attach green disc and proceed to next inspection (operator)


2nd re-inspection:

1. Roving QC examines 7-10 pieces

2. A) Zero faults found-replace green disc and proceed to next operator

B) One or more faults found, minor or major- Red disc remains same,

highlight fault,


12. WASHING DEPARTMENT

12.1 Process Flow:


Receive garments from finishing department

Check garments in accordance to the quantity mentioned in D.C.

Store garments in before wash racks

Buyer approved wash standard received from merchandiser

Carry out 1st bulk wash

Identify the faults and make changes to the

Bulk wash ranges send to buyer with

Comments received from buyer

Bulk washing is carried outBulk washing is carried out

HydroexractorHydroexractor

Tumble dryTumble dry

The washing section head receives the recipe and the desired finish

(wash) in the garment from the merchandiser, who gets this specification

from the buyer.

According to the wash and the recipe the washing section prepares 3-5

samples and sends to the buyer. The buyer approves one of the samples.

The washing section also alter the recipe accordingly and use.

After the buyer approves the sample, a Lot is given that wash (bulk

washing). 2 samples out of the bulk lot are sent to the buyer again for

approval.

If the buyer finds the earlier sample similar to the 2 new samples, it is

passed. Once it is passed, the bulk washing starts for the entire style

production (same recipe as made by the washing section is used).

Along with the garments comes the Delivery Challan. This Challan

contains the details of the buyer name, style number and the number of

garments received for washing.

When the garments are received, it is checked if the garment is soft or

hard. If the fabric is soft, then the garment is just washed with a softener.

If the garment is hard then the garment undergoes a proper Wash Cycle.

The wash cycle starts with the process of Desizing. This is the

process of starch/size removal which makes the garment stiff.

In the process of Desizing, firstly the garments are put in the

industrial washing machine. Along with the garments are added

1000 liter of water and chemicals – Cotflax + Lube + Wetting agent.

Steam is also passed through.


Garments are inspected as per A.Q.L 2.5Garments are inspected as per A.Q.L 2.5

Grinding if required for the styleGrinding if required for the style

Garments send to finishing for packingGarments send to finishing for packing

If the wash is specified as a stone was, then pumice stone is also

added along with the chemicals.

The conditions maintained for this process are:

Time – 30 mins

Temperature – 60° C

Stones are used to remove the fuzziness and the

raised texture on the garment surface. The stone also causes

abrasion, which gives the garment a rugged look and feel.

After 30 mins, the stone is removed and the process

of Enzyme Wash is given to the fabric.

The water is let out until the water capacity in the

machine is 800 l. That is, 200 l is let out. The chemicals added in

this process are acid of 6.5 pH and an enzyme. Two types of

enzymes are generally used.

Acid enzyme – generally used for garments that are

yarn dyed.

Neutral enzyme – generally used for denims and for

garments made of white fabric.

The conditions maintained for this process are:

Time – 40 mins

Temperature – 55° C

The washing section maintains a pH format. This format gives the

exact pH to be maintained for the acids used. This is maintained in

the pH Standard Report. This report is sent by the buyer.

After this process, the garments are drained of the entire water.

They are then washed once in fresh water and then loaded once

again in the washing machine for the Over Dyeing process.

The garments are loaded with 700 lt of fresh water. To this the color

(tint) is added. Along with this salt is also added and the garments

washed for 10 mins.

Then after 10 mins, soda is added and the garments washed for

about 10 mins. The use of soda causes the garments to smell,

hence to remove this smell Acetic acid is added and the garments

washed for 4 mins.


After this process the garments are drained of the entire water.

They are washed in fresh water and then dried in the Hydro

extractor.

After this the garments are again rinsed in 700 l of water in cold

conditions and Silicone Softeners are added. This causing the

softening of the garments.

After the garments are washed or given the softening (according to

the garments being hard or soft) are dried using the Tumble Drier.

The garments are then stored in the after wash racks near the

entrance door. The whole process takes almost 3 hrs to complete.

The garments are then loaded in the truck and a Confirmation Copy

is made. This copy contains the details and the number of garments that

are being sent.

4 copies are made, 2 copies are sent along with the garments

(truck) to the units from where they had come. 2 are kept in the washing

section itself.

1 copy from the 2 copies sent is sent back by the unit to the

washing section confirming that the correct and mentioned no of garments

have reached.

This copy sent back is then tallied with the 2 copies the washing section

have.

The washing section also maintains a Stock Ledger.

The left side of the ledger has the details of the garments

received. It stores the Date, PO No, Qty, and the Tot Qty. the

total quantity is the number of pieces that come in the whole

day.

The right side of the ledger has the details of the garments

sent after washing. It stores the Date, PO No, Qty, and the

Tot Qty. The total quantity is the number of pieces that are

washed in the whole day.


13. FINISHING DEPARTMENT

13.1 Process flow:


BATCH RECEIVINGBATCH RECEIVING

KAJA & BARTACKKAJA & BARTACK

SEND FOR WASHINGSEND FOR WASHING

AFTER WASH CHECKINGAFTER WASH CHECKING

COUNTER CHECKINGCOUNTER CHECKING

BUTTON MARK & SEWBUTTON MARK & SEW

TRIMMINGTRIMMING

IRONINGIRONING

MIDDLE CHECKINGMIDDLE CHECKING

FINAL CHECKINGFINAL CHECKING

PRESENTATION CHECKINGPRESENTATION CHECKING


TAGGINGTAGGING

POLY BAG CHECKINGPOLY BAG CHECKING

CARTON PACKINGCARTON PACKING

MEASUREMENT CHECKINGMEASUREMENT CHECKING

Finishing process is to check the garment for any defect and to make them

appealing through pressing. Garments are check according to quality system

approved by a particular buyer.

AQL of 2.5 is followed for maximum buyers.

Finishing is done to ensure that no defected garments are packed.

13.2 Process of Finishing Department

13.2.1 Kaja and button Section:

Kaja Marking and Making: This Section receives the sewn garments.

Initially templates and pins are used to mark the kaja position. Now kaja

are made the marked position by the specialised machine.

Button Marking and Attaching: Similarly with the help of button attaching

machine buttons are attached at the marked positions.

Button Shank wrapping: Now the button shank is wrapped by the button

shank wrapping machine to provide strength and tight hold to the buttons

on the fabric surface.

Button and Kaja checking: There is a separate inspection table for the

kaja section where proper button and kaja placement and alignment are

checked. If any discrepancies found they are again sent back for

correction.


Sticker Removing: Now finally stickers are removed from the garments

and they are further sent to the washing or the finishing department.

13.2.2 Thread cutting

Extra thread coming out of seam ends. Uncut threads affect the presentation

of finished and packed garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the

loose and uncut threads as soon as possible. As soon as button was attached

the garments pieces were brought to five tables meant for the purpose of thread

cutting. There were around 12 operators doing this job using the clippers. An

hourly production record was maintained for the thread cutting workers.

13.2.3 Spotting

Stains which are not removed from the garments after washing also are

removed by spotting in this process. As soon as the quality checkers comes

across a defect, he brings the defective piece to the operators meant for the

purpose of trouble shooting i.e. alteration and satin removal section. This section

comprises of the following personnel

alteration tailors (eight in no.) for the correction of stitching defects

spot washing gun operators ( eight in no.) for removal of various

type of stains.

An hourly and daily record of the number of pieces altered is

maintained. This helps in keeping a track on the quality of garments being sent

to finishing by the production floor. 20-30% is normally the alteration and stain

removal rate.

13.2.4 Initial pressing

Initial pressing is done to remove the creases and to make the garment

visually alike as per the required sample of the buyer. The pieces were put into

iron boxes after thread-cutting activity gets over. From these boxes ironers who

used to iron the seams only retrieved the pieces. The ironing machines being


used for this purpose were Steam Ironing Tables with Vacuum Boards. These

irons were of the make Ramsons Viet. There were two lines of six irons each on

both the floor. These ironers used to steam iron the following seams

sweep

side seam

sleeve hem

or any other area they need to press for better checking

The whole idea of this seam ironing was to facilitate the quality checkers.

The ironing makes the seams visible. So, detection of any seam defects like

broken stitch, open seam, loose stitches etc became quite easy. An hourly

production record of seam ironers was maintained.

Various purposes of pressing:

To smooth away the unwanted creases and crush marks

To crease the garment wherever required like in collars before top stitch

To mould the garment to the contour of the body

To prepare the garments for further sewing (underpressing)

To refinish the fabric after the manufacturing of the garment

Not nearly as much attention has been paid to the technology of pressing as

to the technology of sewing and cutting. Some interesting points are:

The percentage of total manufacturing work content in pressing is around

50%.

The possibility of automation has been explored for some steam presses, but

most pressing operation requires the continual intervention of human hand.

13.2.5 Visual checking

Checking of all the garment is done according to required AQL. Each quality

checker is provided with two baskets (one for pass pieces and the other for

defective pieces), stickers for marking defects, thread clippers etc. each checker

is instructed to check the garments thoroughly, mark the defects with arrow


stickers and also to cut the uncut threads if found. Every checker puts the pass

piece in the plastic basket below the inspection table. It is the responsibility of

the quality checker to take the defective pieces for correction and after correction

put it in the pass pieces basket. The defects found at this stage could be

broadly of the following types

stitching defects

stains

weaving defects

button/buttonholing defects

Checker puts his allotted number on each of the garment piece passed by

him. All these checkers are given regular on-the-job training. Finishing incharge

or supervisors teach checkers the correct method of garment checking.

There are two types of production records that are maintained for these

quality checkers. They are

a) hourly production record

b) daily production record

13.2.6 Measurements Checking

After checking the garment visually, measurement of the garments is

checked according to the spec sheet with the acceptable tolerance.

13.2.7 Final pressing

Final pressing is done on the garment which has no defect. Based on the

ironing instructions, the supervisor gives the instructions to the ironing operators

about the correct way of ironing the garments of a particular style. It was very

essential because a lot of times it is used to happen that the garments were

supposed to be packed with cuff turned but they were packed with flat cuffs.

The hanging trolleys from where the garments were retrieved for ironing

and placed after ironing were ergonomically designed, keeping in mind the

ironing operator’s movement. An hourly production record of each ironer was

maintained for the purpose of keeping a track on the total production.


13.2.8 Attaching Price tags and other label

The pass pieces are brought to the tagging section on the hanging wheeled

trolleys. It was the responsibility of the packing supervisors to provide the

tagging operators with the appropriate price and brand ticket or tags. The

supervisor also instructs the tagging operator as to where and how the tag has

to be placed. After passing through all the checking and pressing process price

tag is attached to the garment through tag gun. The most important thing to be

kept in mind while placing the tag was to match the size mentioned on the main

label and the size on tag or ticket.

13.2.9 Packaging of the garment

After the attaching the price tag to the garment; garments are packed in

the poly bags or hanged in hanger as per the buyer requirements. The packing

instructions given by the buyers can be like type of polybag, any printing on

polybag required or not, garments to be hanger packed or not, method of folding

and packing the garments etc.

Packed garments are packed in the cartons as per the packaging plan.

Each cartons has specified number of garments and the quantity can neither be

increased nor be decreased after its planned.

It is very important to check the packed garments for presentation. Checkers

check the packed garments for the following things

Poly bag is as per specification

Tags and price ticket should must be visible as per specification

Packing is secured or not

Poly bags should not be soiled and torn

Hangers are there or not if specified

Garment has been folded as per specification etc.

Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The

following things were kept in mind during carton packing

Number of garments to be packed in one carton

Ratio asked for example M:L:XL=1:2:2


Decide on the plies and dimensions(as specified by the buyer) of

the cardboard to be used

Get the cartons tested for bursting strength

Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified

Closing the cartons with cellophane tape

Sealing the cartons with plastic cord

Writing on carton information like store or buyer name, buyer's

address, ratio, net weight or gross weight of the carton etc.

Details about the style no., PO number, size etc are mentioned above the

carton box .Bar code slip is also sticked on the cartons. Each carton has its own

identification over the bar code slip.

Ratio packing:

Garments are packed size-ratio wise. In this kind of packing all the sizes are

packed together in a given ratio.

Example:

Size Large

Ratio S M L XL

10 20 20 10

Location packing:

In this kind of packaging, shipment is packed in parts as per the buyers

requirement. This is also commonly used as shipment has to be send to

different location. So an order quantity of 1,00,000 pieces can be shipped as

20,000 to New York, 65,000 to U.K. and 15,000 to U.S.A.

Solid size packaging:

In this packaging type, each carton contains one size as per buyer’s

requirement.

Color wise Packing:


In this type of packing, different sizes of same color are packed

together in the given ratio.

Example: If 60 garments are to be packed in a carton:

Color Blue

Ratio S M L XL

10 20 20 10


The following procedures are to be followed in the Finishing section. These are to

be displayed on a Display Board kept at the Finishing section.

13.3.1 Garment Receipt:

The garments received for Finishing has to be recorded in appropriate Ledger,

mentioning the O.C. / P.O. #, Color & Shade, Size, Washed or Unwashed etc.

Compare with O.C. / P.O. copy and verify the Quantity and the product mix. In

case of variation in quantity, size mix takes necessary action.

13.3.2 Job Description & Standards:

Process Flow chart are displayed. Any special instructions required are to be

displayed. The Display board should have approved, Garment, Trim Cards, Fold /

Packing method, Fabric defect standards, wash standards, shade band, Defect

% as observed in Finishing section. Ironing standards are available at the

section. Standard requirements explained to all Ironers, like method of Ironing,

Temperature, Steam usage, etc

13.3.3 Quality checks on Garments:

All the Inspection and Checking area to be provide with a minimum of 1200 Lux

light level. Whenever the lighting level decreases, change the Tube light bulbs.

The Table Tops to be of White Laminated.

Visual check: All the Garments to be checked for the Visual Defects

related to stitching, Fabric, Trims etc. Garments which are rejected are to


be rectified. Attach a Follow up card, which details the nature of defect

and the remedial action taken. This will ensure that the Garment has been

rectified and free from defect. Record to be maintained for the % of

garments sent for Alternation / Rectification. Similarly maintain separate

record for the % of garments that underwent Spot washing.

Garments after Ironing are to be checked for right type of Folding,

Packing, attaching right type of Tags, Presentation, etc. Master Cartons to

be checked for the right information as specified.

Place Checkers/Inspectors identification mark in the garment at specified

place.

Measurement Check: All the garments to undergo measurement checks

at critical points at separate are. Daily a minimum of 32 pieces to 10 % of

garments to be checked for all the measurements as per Measurement

chart given by the Buyer by roaming Q.A. Necessary corrective action to

be taken for the non-conformances. Garments sent for alternation /

rectifications are to be tracked by a Follow –up card and record to be

maintained for the Alteration %. Diagram mentioning “how to measure” are

displayed in the Audit areas.

Mini- Q.A. Center: The Mini- Q.A. Center: The Min-Q.A. Center should

be provide with a minimum of 1200 Lux lighting level. Display copy

Shade band, Fabric defect standards ( clearly marked “ Acceptable ” and

“ Not Acceptable ” ). Measurement chart, How to measure chart, Sewing

defect standards for Puckering etc.

13.3.4 Garment Packing:

Packing standards duly signed by the Merchandiser / Buyers representative to be

present in the area. Presentation inspections to be conducted before the

garments are put into poly bags. Price Tags, Bar code tags, and other such tags

to be stored in separate Pigeon hole self / box with dividers to avoid mix-up.

Garments to be sorted size wise before the tags / Price tickets are fixed on to

them. The first garment packed to be approve by Factory Manger / Q.A.


Quality Audits:

13.3.5 Internal Finished Goods Audit: By Factory Auditor.

In small lots (say for example 200 garments) finished packed garments to be

offered for final audits with the size written as a packing slip. Auditor must verify

the size wise quantity and select at random samples for audit .The Audit to be

done for visual as well as for measurement. The audit report is issued to the

Factory management with comments and obtain their signature. In case of audit

failure, this should be discussed with concerned for rectification and for

preventive measure. The lot wise records of all the audit done to be available for

that particular O.C. / P.O. with corrective actions taken if any.

13.3.6 Final Audit: By Corporate Q.A. Team.

Before the Lot is offered for Inspection by Buyers representative, the lot should

be offered for Audit to the Corporate Q.A. team and get approved. They should

check for size wise count accuracy, carton audit, visual checks of garment &

packing. They should use slightly tighter sampling plan for audit. For example, if

Buyer is going to use AQL 4, the Corporate Audit team should use AQL 2.5 as

their sampling plan. The Q.A should aware of the Buyers Tech.pak,

Measurement charts, Packing methods, comments on samples, PP comments,

Internal audit reports, before start their actual Audit. In case, the lot gets

rejected, Audit to be conducted after due re-screening / rectification.

13.3.7 Review Rejections:

Review of rejection to place with P.M./ F.M. / Q.A. for taking necessary corrective

action from time to time.

14. QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT

Quality Policy:

Quality is:


The standard of excellence needed, throughout the business, to develop

and deliver the products and commitments to the customer.

Measuring performance to benchmark Sara Lee Courtaulds against

leading market standards.

Sara Lee Courtaulds Quality Objective:

To provide superior products and services to our customers that exceeds

their minimum requirements.

To ensure that the quality foundation of business processes satisfies and

is adaptable to meet customers’ changing demands.

Strategy:

Achieve independent quality certification for each of the business areas.

Regularly review key performance indicators and business processes, to

assure continuously adapting and improving systems to upscale service

delivery.

Develop a business culture by investing in people, education, and process

and by rewarding high performance and achievement.

Invest in and develop partners and material supply base capabilities to

support Sara Lee Courtaulds quality commitments to its customers.

Long Term Vision:

To define the standard on which other private label suppliers are measured.

14.1 Organization of a Q.A. Team:

The Q.A. Team has well trained Quality Auditors and Quality Assurance

Manager. The role and responsibility of each one is clearly defined. They are

empowered with giving stop advice to the production department, in case, the

Q.A. team observe too many non-conformances occurring or repeatability is lost.


Production department then conducts a meeting along with Q.A. for necessary

corrective actions. Once the Q.A. is satisfied about the actions taken, regular

production commences. All the Q.A.s are briefed with the Quality System in

Fabric Warehouse, Cutting, Sewing, Finishing, and Packing. Job rotation is

followed for Q.As to ensure more effectiveness.

14.2 Quality Management Procedure:

14.2.1 AQL Inspection:

It is the responsibility of the Factory/ Site Manager to ensure that all

stock being dispatched from his/her site has been through a ‘Pre-

Shipment AQL Inspection’ process.

A Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection can take place either , prior to the

storage in the factories finished goods warehouse or prior to

shipment to the distribution warehouses.

A Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection cannot take place unless the audit

team are in the possession of the following-

o An approved/ signed product quality standard which at

minimum must be ‘Contract Seal’.

o The relevant product specification.

The batch size for each audit is very much determined by the stage

where pre-shipment AQL Inspection takes place; however, every

effort must be made to ensure that the batch size is no less than 50

selling units.

The Sara Lee Courtaulds Pre-Shipment Sampling Plan will

determine the sample size for each batch. It is essential that the

sample is randomly selected from the batch.

The visual inspection of the garment in the sample must be against

the garment specifications and the signed standard and faults found

must be based on the ‘General Auditing Criteria’.

All garments rejected must first be classified as either carrying a

‘major’ or a ‘minor’ fault/s and then recorded on a fully completed

‘Production Unit Daily Pre-Shipment Audit Sheet’


o Major fault is a fault that would make the product either un-

sellable or the customer would return it if noticed.

o Minor fault is a fault that may make the product either or the

customer would be dissatisfied if noticed.

When an audit has completed the failure levels must be checked

against the AQL for that ‘sampling plan’ to determine the status of

the audit.

If the audit is accepted, the passed garments in the sample must be

returned to the remaining stock and the stock can then be released

either into the finished goods storage area or for shipment. Any

rejected garment must be clearly identified and quarantined ready

for repair or seconding.

14.2.2 A Rejected Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection:

If the audit is rejected, then the whole batch must be quarantined

and 100% inspected. It is recommended that the pre-shipment audit

team does not carry out 100% inspection.

Following the 100% inspection all faults found must again be

classified as either a ‘major’ or a ‘minor’ and then recorded in the

100% audit section of the audit sheet.

When the above step has been completed, the rejected garments

must be clearly identified and quarantined ready for repair or

seconding.

If the 100% inspection is not carried out by the pre-shipment audit

team, then the passed garments from 100% inspection must be

verified by the same team and the details of this re-audit must be

recorded on the audit sheet as an additional audit.

14.2.3 The Production Unit Daily Pre-Shipment Audit Sheet

At the introduction of the whole ‘Pre-Shipment AQL inspection’

procedure each individual factory or business must decide on its

own series of fault codes. The audit sheet allows for 25 different


fault codes. These must be recorded on master sheet and be used

on all future audits.

The fault codes must be based on specific areas of manufacturing

to identify trends and areas of continuous improvement.

There must be one sheet per auditor per day regardless of how

many different styles a day and individual auditor audits and the

audit date and the auditors name must be completed on top of each

sheet.

Data must be recorded in each individual column as follows:

JIT/Line No. The number of the team where the stock was

produced.

Style This is the stroke number of the style audited. And

must include any relevant suffixes.

Colour This is the colour/colours of the garments included in

the audit. This is an optional column and does not

have to be used.

Batch Size The total number of individual selling units in the

specific audit.

Sample The total number of selling units inspected determined

by the sampling plan.



SAMPLE AUDIT

Major Faults The number of garments, which have a fault/faults

categorised as major from the inspection criteria.

Minor Faults The number of garments, which have a fault/faults,

categorised as minor from the inspection criteria.

A/R This is to indentify if the audit was accepted ‘A’ or

rejected ‘R’.

100% AUDIT

Major Faults The total number of garments carrying major faults

found in both the audit and the 100% inspection of the

remaining stock.

Minor Faults The total number of garments carrying minor faults

found in both the audit and 100% inspection of the

remaining stock.

Fault Codes The total number of faults, by category found in both

the audit and 100% inspection.

15. RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

TESTING LAB

15.1 PROCESS CHART

In-house lab receives samples from suppliers for testing purpose. Each sample is

given a lab number before testing is carried out. The test carried out here are for

internal verification only, not for getting precise test results. The test methods


Request from main storeRequest from main store

Receiving sample fabric from main store

Receiving sample fabric from main store

Lab number is assignedLab number is assigned

ConditioningConditioning

Test methods followedTest methods followed

Shrinkage and test reports are prepared

Shrinkage and test reports are prepared

Reports are sent to merchandiserReports are sent to merchandiser

adopted are as per in-house procedures to enable the company to monitor the

quality of fabrics before sending them to the approved laboratories like Intratek or

SGS for final quality evaluation. Testing is done only for 10% of each lot. All the

specimens to be tested are conditioned under standard conditions of temperature

at 21 ± 1°C and relative humidity of 65 ± 2% for four hours.

Test methods carried out in-house are:

Count

Construction

GSM

Shrinkage

Colorfastness

15.2. In-house Test Methods:

15.2.1 Count:

For evaluating the count of the fabric 30 threads each of 30 cm are taken out

from the fabric for both warp and weft and are weighed using electronic

weighing balance.

15.2.2 Construction:

Construction of warp and weft are determined by the use of pick glass or by

dissection method. Normally, the numbers of threads present in warp and weft

direction in one inch of the fabric are counted using the pick glass. When it is

difficult to count the threads using pick glass, more than one inch of fabric is

cut from two different places of warp and weft and by removing threads from

both sides it is made exactly one inch. The number of threads present in one

inch is counted by removing all the threads one by one. The reading is

confirmed by taking another reading.

15.2.3 GSM:


The Fabric to be tested for GSM is folded in to and placed between the GSM

cutter and the cutting pad. When the safety catch is released, a slight

pressure on the hand wheel brings internal blades into contact with the fabric.

Specimens are cut by rotating the hand wheel under pressure. The GSM

cutter blade cuts fabric in a circular shape of diameter 11.2 centimeter. Out of

the two specimens place the specimen formed by the top ply on the weighing

machine and close the window so that no air is disturbs the fabric and thus

causing incorrect readings. After few seconds reading is taken. This gives the

GSM of the fabric. GSM cutter is used for knit fabrics. In case of woven fabric

a sample of 10 X 10 centimeter is cut and weighed on the electronic weighing

machine, the weight thus obtained is multiplied by 100 to obtain the GSM of

the fabric.

15.2.4 Shrinkage:

The sample size used for shrinkage should be of 75 centimeter length

minimum and full width of the fabric roll. Three markings of 50 centimeter are

marked on the fabric width with indelible ink in both directions. If sample is

small then 10 inches marking is done. In the case of knitted fabrics in tubular

form, two markings each on length wise are marked on each surface of the

fabric. They are washed in the washing machine for 12 minutes, rinsed for 6

minutes and spinning for 6 minutes. Few drops of wetting agent are added to

water before washing. The samples are dried using tumble drier (temperature

not exceeding 60°C) or as per requirement. This cycle is repeated two more

times. The sample is cooled at room temperature and the final measurements

are taken. Under the shrinkage scale percentage shrinkage or extension is

directly read. Average value is reported. Formula for calculating shrinkage is:

Shrinkage %= change in dimensions/original dimensions

15.2.5 Color Fastness

(i) To Washing:

Color fastness is the property of a dye or print that enables it to retain its

depth and shade throughout the wear life of a product. Dyes are

considered fats when they resist the deteriorating influences to which they

will be subjected. The test is carried out using the launderometer. Two


specimens of 10 cm X 4 cm are cut from the sample and a multi-fiber

fabric (containing acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic, wool.) is

attached to it by stapling. The launderometer is maintained at 49°C ± 3°C.

Neutral soap solution of 0.15 gpl concentration is prepared and 200 ml of

this solution is poured in a steel jar along with 50 steel balls (each of 0.6

cm in diameter). The specimen is then put into this jar and these jars are

rotated for 45 minutes to create agitation action. At a time 8 such jars

could be placed in the launderometer. The specimens are then removed

from the jars, rinsed under running water and allowed to dry under a

temperature not exceeding 70°C.

(ii) To Rubbing (Dry/ Wet):

(a) Dry Crocking Test:

The test specimen is placed and fixed on the base of the crockmeter

resting flat on the abrasive material. A white test cloth square (crocking

piece) is mounted over the end of the finger. The covered finger is lowered

on to the test specimen, and rubbed 10 times to and fro for the full length

(approximately 1 rub/second). Remove the white crocking piece and

evaluate for staining using grey scale.

(b) Wet Crocking Test:

Clamp the test specimen as in the case of dry test, the white crocking

pieces are thoroughly wet out in distilled water and excess water is

squeezed out (so that wet pickup is approximately 60-65% for AATCC and

90-95% for ISO). The finger is lowered onto the test specimen and rubbed

10 times to and fro. The wet crock piece is removed and dried at a temp

not exceeding 60°C. The staining is evaluated using grey scale.

The angle of inclination of the base plate of the crockmeter should be

maintained at 45° if AATCC standard is followed and 90° if ISO is followed.

15.2.6 Color Matching Cabinet:

The samples obtained after color fastness test are checked for any color

variation in the color matching cabinet.

The color matching cabinet has six types of light present in it – Daylight,

Cool White, Horizon, Ultra Violet, TL 84, A.


The type of light to be used while matching is specific to the buyer and in

case if not mentioned then daylight is used.

Any change in the original color (shade) and /or staining or color transfer

on the standard fabric is evaluated by visually comparing the test

specimen to the AATCC gray scale for color change and staining for

American buyers and

ISO gray scale for color change and staining for European buyers. The

difference in color change and the amount of color transfer are given a

numerical value ranging from 5 to 1.

Class 5 Excellent

Class 4 Very good

Class 3 Good

Class 2 Fair

Class 1 Poor


PART-2


PLANT LAYOUT

LAYOUT OF GROUND FLOOR:

AREA=2600 SQ FT


INSPECTION / RECUTTING TABLEINSPECTION / RECUTTING TABLE

SPREADING/CUTTING TABLESPREADING/CUTTING TABLE

SPREADING/CUTTING TABLESPREADING/CUTTING TABLE

SPREADING/CUTTING TABLESPREADING/CUTTING TABLEOFFICE OF FACTORY

MANAGER (12.9 x 12.4)

CHECKING

CHECKING

BAND KNIFE M/C

BAND KNIFE M/C

INSPECTION TABLE

INSPECTION TABLE

CUTTING DEPT.

OFFICE

TAB

LETA

BLE

FUSING MACHINEFUSING

MACHINE

BUNDLING

BUNDLING

ENTR

ANCE

ENTR

ANCE

GEN

ERAT

OR

& T

OIL

ETS

(25.

6 x

16.6

)

GEN

ERAT

OR

& T

OIL

ETS

(25.

6 x

16.6

)

CRECHECRECHEAMBULANCE ROOM

AMBULANCE ROOM

STORESTORE

(11.8 x 19.10) I.E DEPT.

(11.8 x 19.10)

H.R DEPT.

REC

OR

D

STO

RE

REC

OR

D

STO

RE

FABR

IC S

TORE

(16.

2 x

18.5

)FA

BRIC

STO

RE (1

6.2

x 18

.5)

EMERGENCY EXIT

LAYOUT OF FIRST FLOOR

Area=5539 sq ft

170 work stations

132 machines


ENTRANCE

PM TABLE CHECKING TABLE

CHECKING TABLE

CHECKING TABLE

CHECKING TABLE

PM TABLE

TO

ILETS

TO

ILETS

TRIMS STORETRIMS STORE

GUEST TOILET (6.5)GUEST TOILET (6.5)

30 WORK STATIONS(16.10)




30 WORK STATION

S(16.10)

30 WORK STATION

S(16.10)

26 WORK STATION

S(16.5)

26 WORK STATION

S(16.5)


23 WORK STATIONS(16.5) 30

WORK STATIONS(20.7)


MANAGEMENT INFORMATION SYSTEM

Management Information System (MIS) is a subset of the overall internal controls

of a business covering the application of people, documents, technologies, and

procedures by management accountants to solving business problems such as

costing a product, service or a business-wide strategy. Management Information

Systems are distinct from regular information systems in that they are used to

analyze other information systems applied in operational activities in the

organization. Academically, the term is commonly used to refer to the group of

information management methods tied to the automation or support of human

decision making, e.g. Decision Support Systems, Expert systems, and Executive

information systems.

At the start, in businesses and other organizations, internal reporting was made

manually and only periodically, as a by-product of the accounting system and

with some additional statistics, and gave limited and delayed information on

management performances.

In their infancy, business computers were used for the practical business of

computing the payroll and keeping track of accounts payable and accounts

receivable. As applications were developed that provided managers with

information about sales, inventories, and other data that would help in managing

the enterprise, the term "MIS" arose to describe these kinds of applications.

Today, the term is used broadly in a number of contexts and includes (but is not

limited to): decision support systems, resource and people management

applications, project management, and database retrieval application.

MIS' is a planned system of collecting, processing, storing and disseminating

data in the form of information needed to carry out the functions of management.

According to Phillip Kotler "A marketing information system consists of people,

equipment, and procedures to gather, sort, analyze, evaluate, and distribute

needed, timely, and accurate information to marketing decision makers."

The terms MIS and information system are often confused. Information systems

include systems that are not intended for decision making. MIS is sometimes


referred to, in a restrictive sense, as information technology management. That

area of study should not be confused with computer science. IT service

management is a practitioner-focused discipline. MIS has also some differences

with Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) as ERP incorporates elements that are

not necessarily focused on decision support.

In Gokaldas Images, MIS is followed in the following way. All the different levels

have their separate tasks decided.

The Management Information System maintains different files at different

levels.

1. Fabric and Trims:

¢ Fabric/ Trim Master File

¢ Material Requirement

¢ Material/Style Cross Reference

2. Vendors and purchasing:

¢ Vendor Master File

¢ Purchase Order

¢ Purchase Order Receipts

¢ Purchase Order Report

3. Order Processing:

¢ New Orders

¢ Bulk and Distribution Orders

¢ Order confirmation

¢ Order summary reports

¢ Order detail reports

¢ Delivery Schedule

4. Shipping and Invoicing:

¢ Order Allocation

¢ Invoice

¢ Shipping log report


5. Accounts Receivable:

¢ Customer Payments

The reports generated are:

1. Purchase

¢ Purchase Order Summary

¢ Purchase Receipts

2. Materials:

¢ Material Requirement

¢ Material Requirement time phased

¢ Material Master List

¢ Inventory material list

¢ Material Commitments

3. Style:

¢ Work in progress

¢ Stock on Hand

¢ Quantity on Order

¢ Shipped


project on labour turnover rate

Documents

Transcript of project on labour turnover rate