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  • Profiting through Quality: Improving Right First Time

    Learning from systematic and collaborative implementation of Quality Improvement Program in 10 apparel firms

    Sustainable Economic Development

  • Published by :

    Deutsche Gesellschaft fr Technische Zusammenarbeit (GTZ) GmbH

    German Technical Cooperation SME Financing and Development Project B-5/1, Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi - 110 029, India Tel: +91 11 2671 5952 / 5826 Fax: +91 11 2616 6844 E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Website: www.gtz.de

    AuthorDr. Rajesh Bheda, Principal & CEORajesh Bheda Consulting

    Responsible:

    Amit Kumar

    New Delhi, September 2009

  • Content 1. Background and Framework Condition 7

    2. Cost of Poor Quality: an introduction 9

    3. ProfitingthroughQuality:KeyResults 13

    4. Case Studies: 17

    4.1 ImprovedCoordinationbetweenmerchandisingandproductionteam 18

    4.2 Interdepartmental team spirit and cooperation 20

    4.3 ReductioninstainsinGarments 21

    4.4 Improvement in subcontracted sewing quality 23

    4.5 Improvement in sewing quality 24

    4.6 Fabric inspection system 26

    4.7 InternalCustomerfeedbackmechanism 28

    5. QualityImprovementProgramme:PlanningandImplementationapproach 31

    6. TechnicalTermsexplainedandputintocontext 35

  • AbbreviationsAQL Acceptable Quality Level

    COQ Cost of Quality

    DFID Department for International Development

    DHU Defects per Hundred Units

    GOI GovernmentofIndia

    GTZ GermanTechnicalCooperation

    KFW KreditanstaltfrWiederaufbau(ReconstructionCreditInstitute)

    MSMEs Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises

    OGTC OkhlaGarmentandTextilesCluster

    PDCA PlanDoCheckAct

    QIP Quality Improvement Program

    RBC RajeshBhedaConsulting

    SIDBI Small Industries Development Bank of India

    SMEs Small and Medium Enterprises

    SPC Statistical Process Control

    SQC Statistical Quality Control

  • 1. Background and Framework Condition

    TheGovernmentofIndia(GOI),throughtheMinistryofFinance,isworkingwithamulti-donor

    consortium to implement Small andMediumEnterprise Financing andDevelopment Proj-

    ect.WorldBank,KFW,DFID,andGTZaretheparticipatingagencies.Theobjectiveofthe

    Multi-DonorProjectistostrengthengrowthandcompetitivenessofmicro,smallandmedium

    enterprises (MSMEs), by improving their access tomarket-oriented financial and business

    development services.

    GermanTechnicalCooperation(GTZ)isimplementingitsprogramoftechnicalassistancein

    closecooperationwithSIDBIandApparelisoneofthesubsectorssupportedbyGTZ.Based

    on theconsultativeandparticipatorydiscussionwithallstakeholdersanurgentneed to im-

    proveproductivity,qualityandsystemsingarmentmanufacturingfactorieswasidentifiedas

    keybottlenecktoenhanceitscompetitivenessandemploymentpotential.Inthefastchang-

    ingglobalbusinessenvironment,wherethereisconstantpressureonleadtime&pricing,the

    wayforwardforapparelMSMEsistoimproveefficiency,cutthecostbybetterquality,waste

    reductionandothermeans.Howeverthenonconformingquality(defect)levelintheapparel

    industryisquitehigh.

    InordertodevelopadeeperunderstandingamongsttheapparelmanufacturingMSMEsand

    appreciationregardingneedforundertakingtheimprovementmeasuresandthusreducing

    repairandrejectioncostandattainingworldclassquality,GTZfacilitatedimplementationof

    Quality Improvement Program (QIP)inselectapparelmanufacturingSMEsinNCRasapilotmeasure.QIPhasbeenimplementedinassociationwithOkhlaGarmentandTextilesCluster

    (OGTC)byProf.RajeshBheda,CEORajeshBhedaConsulting.

    7Profiting through Quality

  • 2. Cost of Poor Quality: An Introduction

    ThoughtheIndianapparelindustryhasmadeeffortstowardscontrollingtheoutgoingqualityofthemerchan-dise;therightfirsttimequality level invariousmanufacturingprocessesneedssubstantial improvement.TherepairandrejectionlevelsintheIndianapparelmanufacturingfirmsstillremainquitehighcomparedtobestpracticefirmsinAsiaincludingIndia.

    Themajorityoftimeandeffortofthequalitypersonnelofapparelmanufacturersseemtobedevotedtoin-spectingthealreadyproducedmerchandisethanpreventingthedefectsfromarising.Thisphenomenoncanmainlybeattributedtothenon-understandingoftheCostofQualityorinsimplewordsnon-understandingoftheamountofmoneywastedduetopoorquality.

    AccordingtoJosephJuran,aleadingGuruofQuality:

    Cost of poor quality consists of those costs that would disappear if our products and processes were perfect.

    Forthepurposeofbetterunderstandingandcontrol,thecostofqualityisclassifiedinfourcategoriesnamelyPreventionCost,AppraisalCost,InternalFailureCostandExternalFailureCost.

    Figure 2.1: Classification of Cost of Quality

    9Profiting through Quality

  • Afirstof itskindstudy Cost of Quality in the Indian Apparel industry, supported by Ministry of Com-merce,Govt.ofIndia,carriedoutbyDrRajeshBhedabroughtoutsomestartlingrevelations.Thestudythatcovered61apparelmanufacturersfromimportantmanufacturinghubsofthecountry,establishedthat:

    AverageCostofqualityamongtheparticipatingfactorieswas14.05%oftheirsalesturnover.Insomefactoriesthecostofqualitywasashighas30%ofsales.

    Thestudyalsorevealedthatonaveragethecompaniesspentonly0.26%ofsalestowardsthePreven-tioncost.TheAppraisalcostwas3.31%ofsaleswhereastheInternalFailureCostwasthehighestat9.86%ofsales.

    Figure 2.3- Distribution of cost of Quality in Indian Apparel Industry

    Figure 2.2- Average Cost of Quality as a percent of sales in Indian Apparel industry

    10 Profiting through Quality

  • ItwasconcludedthatthecostofqualityintheIndianapparelindustrywastoohightobeneglected.Therewas an urgent need for investment in prevention of defect generation, improvement in effectiveness of in-spection and testing in apparel industry.

    Inthecurrentenvironmentwherethereisahighpressureforreducingthesellingpriceofexportapparel,reductioninCOQcouldplayasignificantroleinretainingthecompetitiveadvantagewhilemaintainingprofit-abilityoftheindustry.

    The findings of this research and subsequent assessment ofCost ofQuality in fourmembers ofOkhlaGarmentandTextileClusterbyDr.RajeshBhedageneratedkeeninterestamongthememberfactoriestoembarkuponthejourneyofQualityImprovementProgram(QIP).ThesupportunderSMEFinancing&De-velopmentProjectimplementedbyGTZprovidedthemuchneededenvironmentforprojectinitiation.MoreinformationabouttheimplementationapproachoftheQIPisexplainedinchapter5.

    Thestudyfurtherconcludedthatreducingthe CostofQualityfrom14%to6%ofsalescanimprovetheprofitabilityof

    Indianapparelmanufacturersbyalmost50%.

    11Profiting through Quality

  • 3. ProfitingThroughQuality: Key Results of QIP Implementation

    Theresultsoftheimplementationofqualityimprovementprogramhavebeenveryencouraging.Thefactoryteamswereveryexcitedabouttheirachievementsandvowedtocarryforwardtheimplementationtomarchonthepathofcontinualimprovement.Someofthekeyresultsoftheprogramareasstatedbelow:

    3.1 Fall in Defect Rate

    The Right first Time quality leveloftheparticipatingfactoriesimprovedsubstantially.ThereductioninthedefectratesattheEndofsewinglinesrangedfrom19.94%to78.6%withanaveragereductionof49.83%(fig3.1).Asalsocanbeseeninfigure3.2an3.3theimplementationofQIPresultedinsteepfallinthedefectratesamongtheparticipating factories.

    Apart from sewing department, the participating factories also experienced steep fall in the defect rates in pattern making, cutting and finishing departments to the tune of 20% to 75%.

    Inonefactorythemeasurementinaccuracyrateinpatternswentdownbyover75% InanotherfactoryCuttingauditfailureratewentdownfromabout20%to3%

    Figure 3.1- Graph showing Decline in Defect rates in End-line inspection post implementation of QIP in Eight Different Factories

    13Profiting through Quality

  • 3.2 Payback Period

    TheCostBenefitAnalysisshowedestimatedmonthlysavingsofaboveRs.75000toRs.225000dependingonscaleofoperationsandimprovementsachieved.Thishasresultedinimpressivepaybackperiodoftwotofivemonths.Insomecasestheprogrampaidbackduringtheimplementationperioditself.

    Figure 3.2- Bar graph Showing Decline in DHU and Percent Defective over a period of 3 months

    Figure 3.3- Trend chart showing decline in DHU and Percent Defective over a period of 1 month

    14 Profiting through Quality

  • 3.3 Customer Feedback

    InternationalcustomersofmanyparticipatingcompanieshaveappreciatedthesystemsintroducedthroughtheQIPandhaveupgradedthefactoryratingformallyorinformally.InonecasealeadingEuropeanretailerhasexemptedthefactoryfromthefinalinspectionbytheirqualityauditors.Somefactorieshavereportedthatnewcustomersappreciatedtheirqualitysystemandthusithelpedthemsecuringhighervaluebusiness.

    3.4 Improved Subcontractors

    Theimprovementsexperiencedarenotlimitedtotheparticipatingfactoriesalone.Inmanycasestheirsubcontractorshavealsobenefitedfromthebestpracticesoftheprogram.Inonecase,theaveragedefectratesofsevensubcontractmanufacturerswentdownby40.76%,Whilethehighestrateofdefectreductionwas71.32%.

    3.5 Reduction in consumables and Environmental Impact

    Oneoftheparticipatingfactorieshasreportedsubstantialreductioninchemicalconsumption(byover74%)asaresultofreductioninthestains.Thefactoryhadmanagedtobringdownthestainsbyabout67%(figure3.5)throughproblemsolvingapproachandimprovedhousekeeping.

    Thefactoryalsoreportedreductionintheconsumptionofwater,fuelandelectricityduringQIPimplementa-tionleadingtomajorcostsavingsandmoreimportantly,reducingadverseimpactontheenvironment.Thisconsequentlyhasencouragedotherfactoriestoexplorethisopportunityarea.

    3.6 Interdepartmental Team Spirit

    Allparticipatingfactorieshavereportedimprovedinterdepartmentalteamspirit,communication,coordinationandoverallmotivationleveloftheworkforce.

    Figure 3.4- Graphs Showing Reduction in Stains per hundred garment and reduction in cost of stain removing chemical after the implementation of QIP

    15Profiting through Quality

  • 3.7 Decision Making and Problem Solving

    Thefactoryteamshavedevelopedgreaterconfidenceinfactbaseddecisionmakingandproblemsolvingability.Theyfurtherreportedimprovementintheirknowledgeandskillsandtheirabilitytoapplythesameintheirprocessestobringinimprovements.

    3.8 Training

    Duringtheprogramatotalof324personnelfromthe10participatingfactoriesbenefittedfromthetraining provided by Rajesh Bheda Consulting.Out of these participants 103 were managers,97 were supervisors from various departments and remaining 124 belonged to quality controller/ checkercategory.

    In addition to this the factory team memberstrainedbyRBC,conductedseveraltrainingses-sionsfortheworkerstospreadtheawarenessofRightFirstTimeQualitytograssrootlevel.

    Figure 3.5- A factory team training session

    16 Profiting through Quality

  • 4. Case Studies

    There is one rule for the industrialist and that is: Make the best quality of goods possible at the lowest cost possible, paying the highest wages possible.

    Henry Ford(1863-1947),Americanindustrialist

    Thecollaborative journeyof implementationofQuality ImprovementProgramintheapparelmanufactur-ingMSMEshasbeentrulyrewardingforallthepartners,namelyGTZ,OkhlaGarmentandTextileCluster,participatingapparelmanufacturersandRajeshBhedaConsulting.ThoughthefocusoftheprogramwasonimprovingRightFirstTimeQualitylevelincoremanufacturingprocesseslikecutting,sewingandfinishing;andtheprogramresultedinsubstantialimprovementsintheseprocesses;theprogramalsoresultedinsig-nificantimprovementsinotherprocessesaswell.

    Astheprogramwasimplementedinaflexiblemannertosuittheneedsofeachparticipatingfactory,widevarietyofprocessesandopportunityareasreceivedattentionofRBCconsultantsthusresultinginsizableimprovements.

    OneofthemainobjectivesofthepilotimplementationoftheQIPwastocreateademoeffectaboutthevalueofusingconsultancyservicestoestablishQualitySystems.Thissectionofthepublicationaimsatsharingwiththewiderindustrycommunitysomeofthereal-lifecasestudiesemergingfromtheQIPimplementation.Thethemescoveredare:

    1) Improvedcoordinationbetweenmerchandisingandproductionteam

    2) Interdepartmentalteamspiritandcooperation

    3) ReductioninstainsinGarments

    4) Improvementinsubcontractedsewingquality

    5) Improvementinsewingquality

    6) Fabricinspectionsystem

    7) InternalCustomerfeedbackmechanism.

    17Profiting through Quality

  • 4.1 Improved Coordination between Merchandising and Production Team

    The Challenge

    Thecommunicationandcoordinationbetweenthemerchandisingandthefactoryteamwasun-satisfactory.Duetothisthemutualtrustandcooperationwasalsolimited.

    Thisleadtofrequentdelaysinordershipmentsandclientteamneededtoengageinextracommu-nicationwithbuyingagenciesforlastminutechangesorapprovals.Thefactoryalsoexperiencedhighrejectionrateandhadtodoexcessiveovertimetomeettheshipmentdates.

    The Client

    TheclientisoneofIndiasleadinggarmentexporthouses.ItscustomersincludereputedretailstoresintheUS,UK,Sweden,Holland,CanadaandAustralasia.Thecompanymanufactureshighfashionladiesapparel,rangingfromcasualoutfitstoformaleveningwear.AllthefactoriesofthecompanyareISO9000certified.

    The Solution

    Consultativesessionswereorganisedbetweenthefactoryteamandmerchandisingteam,toexplaintheinternalcustomersupplierrelationandtheneedforimprovedcoordinationandsynergisingthework-ingofbothentitieswithorganisationalobjectiveinfocus

    Facilitatedeachfactoryteamtoidentifyfiveimprovementsintheworkingoftheirdepartmentandfoundoutimprovementexpectationsformtheirinternalcustomerdepartments

    Figure4.1.1- Major Challenge and its effects

    18 Profiting through Quality

  • Based on these the factory teams initiated improvement projects to meet the internal customerexpectations.

    Systematic problem solving efforts by the factory team under the guidance resulted in solving longpending issues, reduce defects and delays.

    The Business Impact:

    Theoverallrejectionrateofthegarmentshasgonedownbyalmost50%i.e.from4%tolessthan2%.Thishassizablepositiveimpactontheprofitabilityoftheorganisationapartfromseveralotherbenefits.

    Other Benefits

    TheQIPhasresultedinimprovedtrust,mutualunderstandingandcooperationbetweenthemerchandisingandfactoryteam.Frommostlyshortshipments,inlargecases,thefactoryhasstartedsendingshipmentswithexcessquantity.Theshipmentdelayshavegonedownsubstantially.Thishasledtoimprovedfactoryimageamongthecustomers.

    Figure 4.1.2- Decline in the overall rejection rate post implementation of QIP

    Figure 4.1.3- The benefits obtained by the factory from QIP

    19Profiting through Quality

  • Outcomes Percentage

    Reductionindefectrateinpatterns 75%

    ReductionincuttingroomAuditFailure 85%

    Reductionindefectrateatendlineinspection 66%

    Reductioninoverallrejectionrate 50%

    4.2. Interdepartmental Team Spirit and Cooperation

    The Challenge

    The different departments of the factory believed that in spite of their best efforts the quality problemswerenoteliminatedbecauseotherdepartmentsdidnotdotheirjobright.Thoughthefactory teamunderstood the importance of serving the ultimate customerwith desired quality,theylackedinternalcustomerorientation.Inmanycasestheyblamedinternalcustomersofbeinghabitualcomplainants.

    Qualityandproduction teamssuspectedeachothers intentions.Thechallengewastobring inthe common goal of external customer satisfaction through company-wide internal customer satisfaction.

    The Client

    TheclientproducesvalueaddedladieswearfortheUSandEuropeanmarket.Thecompanyhasastrongproductdevelopmentteam.Mostofthebusinessoftheclientisdirectlyhandledwithinternationalretailers/importerswithoutinvolvementofbuyingagentsorlocalsourcingoffices.

    The Solutions

    AftertheinitialtrainingonthefundamentalconceptsofRightFirstTimequalityandtheutmostrelevanceoftheconcept,consultantsconductedaseriesofsessionsbetweeninternalcustomersupplierdepartmentstounderstandtheexpectationsoftheinternalcustomers.

    This was followed by initiation of small improvement projects in each department with the aim of satisfyingtheinternalcustomerdepartment.30suchprojectswereinitiated.

    TheprogressoftheseprojectswasregularlymonitoredanddiscussedduringtheQIPCoreTeammeetingon weekly basis.

    The Business Impact:

    20 out of the 30 project initiated were successfully completed during the implementation of theQuality ImprovementPrograminthecompany.Asaresultofsuccessfulimplementationoftheseprojectsandregularprogressreview,allthedepartmentsofthefactorydevelopedgreaterconfidenceandtrustinotherdepart-ments.Thisbroughtintransparency,greaterappreciationofissuesinvolved,andinter-departmentalteamworkandover aperiodof time the factory teamsdevelopedability to solveproblems through collective brainstorming and data based decision making. No doubt the factory was handsomely rewarded with reductioninrejectionratebyalmost50%resultinginsubstantialcostsavings.

    Thekeyoutcomeswere:

    Table 4.2.1- Key outcomes of the QIP implementation

    20 Profiting through Quality

  • 4.3. Reduction in Stains on the garment

    The Challenge

    Alongsidetheproblemsofhighrepairlevelinsewingtheclientalsofacedsubstantiallyhighlevelofstainsinthegarments.Thismeantalotofadditionalworkinthefinishingdepartmenttoremovestains.Thisalsomeantexcessivecostofstainremovingchemicals.Thechallengewastofindoutthesourcesofthestains,establishtorootcausestotakepreventiveactions.

    The Client

    Theclient isanOkhlabasedmanufacturer,exportingtotheEuropeanMarket.Thecompanyismanagedbytheownerwiththehelpofexperiencedstaffinafamilylikemanner.Thecompanydealswithsmallorderquantitiesandhighstylevariation.Stitchingandembroideryistotallyoutsourced.

    The Solutions

    Thefinishingteamwastrainedindatacapturingtools likechecksheetstounderstandthefrequencyofstain relatedproblems.Thedatacollectedby thefinishing teamshowed thatevery100garmentsinspectedhadonanaverage46.13stains.

    Thefactoryteamwasencouragedtouseproblemsolvingtechniquestounderstandtherootcausesofvariousdefectsfoundinthegarments.Suggestionswereinvitedformtheemployeesonhowtoprotectthegarmentsformstainsduringvariousprocesses

    Theemployeesaswellassub-contractorsweresensitisedtotheproblemsofstains,theprecautionarymeasures were implemented and results were monitored on regular basis.

    Figure 4.3.1- Graphs Showing Reduction in Stains per hundred garment and reduction in cost of stain removing chemical after the implementation of QIP

    21Profiting through Quality

  • The Business Impact

    Theprojectresultedinimpressiveimpactfortheclient

    Stains per hundred garmentswent down by 63% from 46.13 to 17.02while the cost of stain removing chemicalgarmentreducedby74%fromRs.1.38toRs.0.5perpiece.

    Mostimportantly,thereductioninstainbecameoneoftheimportantfactorscontributingtomorethandou-blingtheproductivityofthefinishingdepartment.

    Costofpower,waterandfuelwentdownbyRs.2.00perpiece.

    A strong foundation has been laid in these three months for working towards improvement

    -Factory owner, Indigo Apparel

    -----------------------------------------

    Some of our long pending issues have been resolved as a result of Cause and Effect Analysis implementation.

    - Fabric Store In charge, Indigo Apparel

    -----------------------------------------

    First time we have realized the importance of data for the work what had been accomplished and its usage in understanding the situation

    of the merchandise

    - Finishing floor in charge, Super Fashions

    22 Profiting through Quality

  • 4.4. Improvement in subcontracted sewing Quality

    TheChallenge

    ThemanagementofthecompanywasthoughconvincedofthepossiblegainsfromQIP methodologyanditsvaluebutwasunsureabouttheprogramsimplementationinhighfashion,smallquantitymanufacturing.Sinceallstitchinginthisfactoryisoutsourced,thechallengewastoimprovethesubcontractorsthattheycouldandneededtoproducebetterqualityapparelwith-outexpectingincreaseinsewingcharges.

    The Client

    Theclient isanOkhlabasedmanufacturer,exportingtotheEuropeanMarket.Thecompanyismanagedbytheownerwiththehelpofexperiencedstaffinafamilylikemanner.Thecompanydealswithsmallorderquantitiesandhighstylevariation.Stitchingandembroidery is totallyoutsourced.The factoryworkswithabout15-20fabrication(stitching)units.

    Solution

    Aninteractivesessionwasorganizedwithsubcontractorstoexplaintothemtheimportanceofrightfirsttimequalityandunderstandthedifficultiesfacedbytheminachievingso.

    Theywereexplainedwithsimpleexampleshowtheywillbeabletosavetimeandmoneybyproducingdefectfreegarmentsinthefirstattempt.

    Thefactoryprovidedadetailedobjectivefeedbackonsewingqualitytosubcontractorsdetailingthetypeandfrequencyofdefectsgeneratedbythetailors.Thiswasusefulinexplainingthetailorsthespecificimprovementsneededintheirwork.

    Business Impact

    Theclientsawbreakthroughresultsintermsofreductionindefectratesinthegarmentsstitchedbythesubcontractors.Anaveragereductionindefectratesforsevenmainfabricatorswasreportedtobe40.76%.Ascanbeseeninthegraphthemaximumreductionwas71.32%whereasminimumreductionwas19.02%.

    Figure 4.4.1- Drop in defect rate of seven fabricators over a period of 3 months

    23Profiting through Quality

  • Figure 4.5.1- Reduction in DHU=78.06% and a reduction in Percentage Defective=79.96%

    4.5. Improvement in Sewing Quality

    The Challenge

    Itwasobservedthatreworklevelatproductionfloorduetostitchingdefectswasquitehigh.Thisledtotimeandenergylossofproductionlineoperatorsandsupervisors.Furtherthefinishingdepartmenthadtodohighamountofsewingrelatedreworktocompletetheshipment

    The Client

    TheNCRbasedclientworkswith leading internationalnamessuchasReebok,MayDepartmentStores,Chicos,UrbanOutfittersandAnthropology.Theclientproducesknittedapparelformen,womenandkids.Theproductrangeinvolvesblouses,tops,skirts,Poloshirt,t-shirtandtrackpants.ThequalitysystemofthefactoryiscertifiedunderISO9001:2000.

    Intervention

    Aninteractivesessionfortheproductionandqualityteamwasconductedtoexplaintothemtheimpor-tanceofrightfirsttimequalityforhurdlefreeproduction.

    RBCsend-lineinspectiondatacapturingformatwasintroducedtounderstandexistingdefectsandtheirfrequency.

    Thestitchingoperatorswerealsoexplainedtheimportanceofrightfirsttimequalityandhowtheywillbeabletoimprovetheirearningbyeliminatingdefects.

    Trainingsessionsondataanalysis,problemsolvinganddailymanagementwereconductedbyconsul-tantstoeliminatethedefectsfromtheroots.

    RBCsQualityManagementInformationSystemwasinstalledtogeneratemanagementreporting.

    24 Profiting through Quality

  • Business Impact

    Thedefectrateofthestitchingfloorcamedownby78.06%overthreemonthsperiod.

    Asaresultof improvedsewingqualitythecompanydecidedtoeliminatequalityauditbeforesendingthemerchandisetofinishingdepartment.Thisresultedinredeploymentoffiveinspectionstaff.Needlesstosaytheprojectresultedinsubstantialcostsavingsforthefactory.

    Weareenjoyingthelife-timeopportunityfromlearningthequalitymanagementsystems in workplace as well as in our personal life.

    An end-line checker, Super Fashions

    -----------------------------------------

    Stitchingqualityhassubstantiallyimprovedthanearlier

    -Finishing Manager, Super Fashion

    -----------------------------------------

    Iamgladtoseegoodresultsofsustainablereductionofalterationinstitchinginsuchhighpressuretime,Iamsurewewillperformbetterinthecomingtime

    - Factory Manager, Super Fashions

    25Profiting through Quality

  • 4.6. Fabric Inspection System

    TheChallenge

    Thechallengewastointroduceafactbased,objectivefabricqualityinspectionsystemsoastocreatethebasisforfabricqualityimprovement.

    Thecostoffabricconstitutesabout50%to60%ofthegarmentcost.ThepopularperceptionintheNorthIndian apparel industry is that theirbiggestproblemisdelay infabricdeliveryandpoororunpredictablequalityof thefabric.It isalsowidelyperceivedthatthefabricprocessorsandsuppliersarenottookeentoengageinqualityimprovementactionsanditisasellersmarket.

    The Clients

    ThiscaseintegratesexperiencesfromthreeparticipatingfactoriesofQIP.AllofthemproducerelativelysmallorderqualitiesmainlyfortheEuropeanmarket.Garmentsproducedbytheminvolvemultipleprocessesandfabrictypesvarysignificantly.

    The Solutions

    Thefabricdepartmentteamwassensitisedtotheneedtohavefactualandobjectivedataonthefabricquality

    Oncetheywereconvincedaboutthevalueofintroducinganinternationallyacceptablefabricinspectionprocedure,FourPointSystemoffabricinspectionwasintroducedintheparticipatingfactories

    Figure 4.6.1- Benefits from effective use of fabric Quality performance data based on 4-point system

    26 Profiting through Quality

  • Figure 4.6.2-Satisfaction Level of Cutting department on account of fabric quality for 4 months

    Afterintroductionofthesystem,fabricteamwastrainedinanalysingdeliveryandqualityperformanceofdifferent fabric suppliers/ processors

    Thefactoriesstartedprovidingwrittenfeedbacktofabricvendorswiththeircomparativeperformance.

    Thiscreatedasenseofcompetitionandpressureonthefabricsupplierstotakeactionstoimprovetheperformance.

    The Business Impact:

    Allthethreefactorieshavereportedgradualimprovementinfabricqualitysuppliedbyfabricvendorsandprocessors after the introduction of the system.One factory reported that the arguments with suppliersrelatingtothejustificationofdebitnotesincaseofthedefectivefabrichavecometoanendasaresultofdetailedinspectionreportswhichclearlystatesthetypeandfrequencyofthedefectsfoundinthefabricsperroll.Cuttingroomsofthesecompanieshavereportedreceivingofbetterfabriccomparedtopre-QIPdays.Thishelpedcompaniesreduceifnoteliminatefabricdefectsreachingsewingandfinishingdepartmentsandresultant wastage.

    27Profiting through Quality

  • 4.7. Internal customer feedback mechanism

    The Challenge

    ThoughthefactoryhadaverygoodperformanceatthestageofFinalQualityAuditsbytheircustomers,thefactorywasexperiencinghighinternalreworklevel.Themanagementwasconcernedabouttheresultantcostofqualityanddelays.Highinternalreworkalsoresultedinatendencyamongthestaffofpointingfingerswhenfacedwithproblems.Asaresult,conceptofcollectiveresponsibilityandapproachofworkingtogethertoachievecommongoalswaslow.Thechallengewastoestablishobjectivefeedbackmechanismbetweenthedepartmentsforreducingcommunicationgapandinitiatingtheprocessofcontinualimprovement.

    The Client

    Theclientisaleadingexporterworkingwithsomeofthefortune500retailers.Thefactoryproducesbaby,kidsandwomenswear.AcknowledgingthehighCostofQualityandunseenlossesincurredonaccountofit,theclientdecidedtoimplementQualityImprovementProgram.Thequalitysystemofthefactoryiscertifiedunder ISO 9001:2000.

    Intervention

    AftertheintroductorytrainingontheconceptsrelatedtoRightFirstTimequalityanddatabaseddecisionmaking,thefactoryteamwasintroducedtoRBCsmethodologyofinternalcustomeridentificationandun-derstandingtheirexpectations.

    Oncethedepartmentalteamsagreedtoseekinternalcustomersatisfactionlevel,thefeedbackmechanismwas activated between internal customer and supplier departments.

    Thefeedbackofinternalcustomerswasregularlyanalysedandcorrectiveactionsweretakenbythesupplierdepartments.Regularinterdepartmentalmeetingswereconductedtoreviewtheprogressmadeandissuesthatneededtobeaddressedonpriority.

    Thefactorymanagementalsostartedreviewingthedailyfeedbacksummaryandencouragingtheprogressmadeaswellasprovidingguidancewhereeverneeded.

    Business Impact

    Introductionoffeedbackmechanismshashelpedeachdepartmenttogettimelyfeedbackontheirworkandidentifyareasfor improvementandavoidingrepetitionofmistakes.Incaseofcuttingdepartment,thead-versefeedbackreducedby50%.

    Theimprovementactionsofdepartmentsresultedinhigherinternalcustomersatisfactionfurtherleadingtoimprovedinterdepartmentalcommunicationandunderstandingoftheissues.

    Mutualunderstanding,respectandprofessionalappreciationofotherdepartmentshascreatedbetterwork-ing environment.

    28 Profiting through Quality

  • Commentsoffactoryteamoninitiatingthefeedbackmechanism:

    Thishashelpedmesolvemanyofthequalityand production issues.

    Factory Manager

    -----------------------------------------

    Wehavestartedwaitingeagerlytoknowourperformance

    throughfeedbackmechanism.

    Production Manager

    -----------------------------------------

    Wearesatisfiedthattheblamegamehasliterallydisappearedand wearehappierworkinginco-ordinationwithfabric

    andstitchingdepartment

    - Cutting Room In charge

    -----------------------------------------

    Ithasbecomeeasierforustoknowtheproblemfacedbyproduction duetothesystemoffeedbackregister

    -Cutting QA, Radnik Exports

    -----------------------------------------

    Ifeelproudtoshowyoumyfeedbackregister. Wearebeingappreciatedforthegoodworkwearedoing.

    - Cutting manager, Saivana Exports

    -----------------------------------------

    Themoraleandmotivationofmydepartmenthasincreased asgoodperformanceandimprovementisapplaudedbytheseniors

    Floor Incharge, Radnik Exports

    29Profiting through Quality

  • 5. Q I P : Planning and ImplementationApproach

    5.1 Planning:

    Figure 5.1- Planning Approach of QIP

    31Profiting through Quality

  • Figure 5.2- Quality Improvement Programme implementation Methodology

    5.2 Implementation Methodology

    GAP Analysis : Critical Step

    GAPanalysiswascarriedouttoassessthecurrentsystemsandprocedures,understandthedefectlevelsandassessingthepreparednessoftheteamforQIP.BasedontheoutcomesofGAPanalysistheQIPimple-mentationplanisadaptedandfine-tunedtomeetthespecificneedoftheindividualfactory.

    SomeofthekeyfindingsoftheGapanalysiswereasfollows:

    - Extensiveinspectionswerenoteffectiveinstoppingthedefectivegarmentsfrommovingforwardtothenextprocesses.

    - Therewasahighsuccessrateatbuyerqualityauditstagebutthiswasachievedafterhighre-worklevelinsewingandfinishingdepartments.

    - Inmostcasesthedefectrelateddatawereunderreportedandnotanalysed.

    - In some cases inspection did not give the clear picture as rework level related data were not available.

    - Systematicproblemsolvingwasrarelypracticed.

    32 Profiting through Quality

  • Formation of Cross-functional team for QIP

    Acrossfunctionalteamwasformedineachoftheparticipatingfactoryfortheplanning,implementationandreviewoftheQIP.

    Training provided to key Team members

    TrainingintheareasoffundamentalconceptsofQualityformedthemainbaseoftheQualityImprovementProgram.Thefactoryteamsareencouragedtoquestionthecurrentprocessesandseekbetteralternatives.Thespecifictrainingthemescoveredwere:CustomerFocus,RightFirstTimeQuality,PDCA,AQL,RawMa-terialInspectionSystems,SQC,CauseandEffectAnalysis,DataAnalysisandReportingSystemandotherneed based areas.

    Figure 5.3: Components of the training provided to Key members

    33Profiting through Quality

  • 6. TechnicalTermsexplained andputintocontext

    1. Appraisal Cost: Costincurredtodeterminethedegreeofconformancetoqualityrequirements(mea-suring,evaluatingorauditing).Example: Inspection, testing,processor serviceaudits, calibrationofmeasuring and test equipment.

    2. DHU (Defects per Hundred Units): Theratioofnumberofdefectsperlotorsample,expressedasapercentage.

    DHU=NumberofDefectsx100dividedbyNumberofUnits.

    3. External Failure Cost: Costassociatedwithdefectsfoundafterthecustomerreceivestheproductorservice.Example:processingcustomercomplaint,customerreturn,warrantyclaim,productrecall.

    4. GAP analysis: Gapanalysisisabusinessresourceassessmenttoolenablingacompanytocompareitsactualperformancewithitspotentialperformance.Atitscorearetwoquestions:Wherearewe?andWheredowewanttobe?

    5. Internal Failure Cost: Costassociatedwithdefectsfoundbeforethecustomerreceivestheproductorservice.Example:Scrap,rework,re-inspection,re-testing,materialreview,materialdowngrades

    6. Pareto analysis: Paretoanalysisisastatisticaltechniqueindecisionmakingthatisusedforselectionofalimitednumberoftasksthatproducesignificantoveralleffect.Thepurposeistohighlightthemostimportantamonga(typicallylarge)setoffactors.Inqualitycontrol,theParetochartoftenrepresentsthemostcommonsourcesofdefects,thehighestoccurringtypeofdefect,orthemostfrequentreasonsforcustomer complaints, etc.

    7. Percent Defective:Theratioofdefectivepiecesperlotorsample,expressedasapercentage.

    8. Prevention Cost:Costincurredtoprevent(keepfailureandappraisalcosttoaminimum)poorquality.Example:Newproductreview,qualityplanning,suppliersurveys,processreviews,qualityimprovementteams, education and training.

    9. SPC (Statistical Process Control): Itisamethodofmonitoringaprocessthroughtheuseofcontrolcharts.Muchofitspowerliesintheabilitytomonitorbothprocesscentreanditsvariationaboutthatcentre.Bycollectingdatafromsamplesatvariouspointswithintheprocess,variationsintheprocessthatmayaffectthequalityoftheendproductorservicecanbedetectedandcorrected,thusreducingwasteaswellasthelikelihoodthatproblemswillbepassedontothecustomer.Withitsemphasisonearlydetectionandpreventionofproblems,SPChasadistinctadvantageoverqualitymethods,suchasinspection,thatapplyresourcestodetectingandcorrectingproblemsintheendproductorservice.

    35Profiting through Quality

  • OGTCaclustercentricapproachisthefirstofitskindwithmissionexcellenceasitsmotto.Thoughthemembersarenothavingphysicalproximitybutareclearintheirmindsthatsuccesscanonlybeachieved through collective thinking and cooperation. Likeminded entrepreneurs got together andcreatedOGTCtoprimarilystrengtheneachmemberbycomplementingeachother,byidentifyingbestpractices,implementingintensivecollectivetrainingandadoptingoutoftheboxapproachandprovideinputsasathinktanktothegarmentindustry.

    ItisexpectedthatOGTCinitiativesinbuildingcompetitivenesswillcreateademoeffectfortheindustryandwillleadtooverallimprovementandnicheintheglobalarena.QualitymanagementthroughQIPisoneofthemanyinitiativesundertakenbyOGTC.

    Thisprogrammehaslaidthefoundationforadvancedprogrammesinqualitymanagementsothatfirsttimerightandrighteverytimebecomesahabitandeventuallythecultureofthecompany.

    Mr.R.C.KesarDirectorOGTCEmail [email protected]

    RajeshBhedaConsulting(RBC)isaknowledgeorganizationfocusedonenhancingcompetitivenessofthefashionindustryorganisations.itfirmlybelievesthatperformanceoftheapparelmanufacturingorganisationscanbesignificantlyenhancedthroughoverallproductivityandqualityimprovement. RBChasbeenworkingcloselywithmanyleadingnationalandinternationalplayersintheapparelsec-torwiththepurposeofbringinginproductivityandqualityimprovementsforachievingbetterproduceandimprovedworkingconditionswhileretainingthecostcompetitiveness.

    FoundedbyProf.RajeshBheda,anexpertonclothingmanufacturingmanagement,RBCiscommittedtomaketheindustryawareofitsimprovementpotentials,drawstrategiesforimprovementandguidetheminachievingthepotential

    Dr.RajeshBhedaCEO,[email protected]

  • SIDBIistheprincipalfinancialinstitutionforthepromotion,financinganddevelopmentofindustryinthesmallscalesectorandtoco-ordinatethefunctionsoftheinstitutionsengagedinthepromotionandfinancingordevelopingindustryinthesmallscalesectorandformattersconnectedtherewithorincidentalthereto.

    SIDBIistheimplementingagencyfortheSMEFinancing&DevelopmentProject.SIDBIhassetupaprojectmanagementdivisioninNewDelhichargedwithsmoothimplementationoftheproject.

    Incorporatedin1978,AEPCistheofficialbodyofapparelexportersinIndiathatprovidesinvaluableassistancetoIndianexportersaswellasimporters/internationalbuyerswhochooseIndiaastheirpre-ferred sourcing destination for garments.

    ForIndianexporters,AEPCisquiteliterallyaone-stopshopforinformation;advise,technicalguidance,workforceandmarketintelligence.Membershaveaccesstoupdatedtradestatistics,potentialmarkets,informationoninternationalfairsandassistanceinparticipatingatthesefairs.Italsoplaysalargerolein identifying new markets and leading trade delegations to various countries.

    InrecentyearsAEPChasworkedtirelesslyinintegratingtheentireindustry-startingatthegrassrootleveloftrainingtheworkforceandsupplyingasteadystreamofmanpowertotheindustry;identifyingthebestcountriestosourcemachineryandotherinfrastructureandbrokeringseveralpathbreakingdealsforitsmembersandfinallyhelpingexporterstoshowcasetheirbestathomefairsaswellasbehighlyvisibleatinternationalfairstheworldover

    IndiahasbeenapartnercountryofGermanDevelopmentCooperationfornearly50years.Foralmostallofthistime,GTZ-DeutscheGesellschaftfuerTechnischeZusammenarbeit(GTZ)GmbH-hasbeenactiveinIndiaonbehalfoftheGermanFederalMinistryforEconomicCooperationandDevelopment(BMZ).

    Establishedin1975,GTZisorganisedasaprivatecompanyownedbytheGermanFederalGovern-ment.TheBMZisitsmajorclient.ThecompanyalsooperatesonbehalfofotherGermanMinistries,partner-countrygovernmentsandinternationalclientssuchastheEuropeanCommission,theUnitedNationsandtheWorldBank,aswellasonbehalfofprivateenterprises.Itprovidesviable,forward-looking solutions for political, economic, ecological and social development in a globalised world.

    ToaddressIndiasdevelopmentprioritiesofsustainableandinclusivegrowth,GTZsjointeffortswiththepartnersinIndiacurrentlyfocusonthreeprioritysectors:Energy,SustainableEconomicDevelop-ment and Environmental policy, conservation and sustainable use of natural resources.

  • APPARel exPoRT PRomoTIon CounCIl(Sponsored by Govt. of India. Ministry of Texitles)Apparel House, Sec 44,Industrial Area, Gurgaon - 122003, Haryana.Tel: 91-124-2708000-3E-mail: [email protected]

    SmAll InduSTRIeS develoPmenT bAnk oF IndIAProject Management DivisionVideocon Tower, Ground FloorE-1, Rani Jhansi Road, Jhandewalan ExtensionNew Delhi-110055Tel: 011 - 23682474-77E-mail: [email protected]

    Deutsche Gesellschaft fr Technische Zusammenarbeit (GTZ) GmbH

    German Technical Cooperation SME Financing and Development Programme B-5/1, Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi - 110 029, India Tel: +91 11 2671 5952 / 5826 Fax: +91 11 2616 6844 E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Website: www.gtz.de

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