Product Knowledge Workshop

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    Participant Expectations

    What do you expect tolearn from this

    w orkshop?

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    Expectation setting

    G eneric fabric kn ow ledg e Value Additions in fabric

    manufacturing Denim

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    Program Objective

    Acquire product knowledge to

    effectively

    Use the knowledge to increasesales

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    G eneric F abricKnow ledge

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    Basic Concepts W hats a fib er?

    S m allest part of a fabric H air-like substance F ibres are either found in

    nature or m anm ade F ibres w hose length is

    m easured in inches are calledstaple fibers

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    Basic Concepts

    A Filament All manmade fibres are

    filaments

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    Types of fibers

    Types o ffibers

    Man-MadeMade in factory

    Natural FibersFoun d in nature

    RegeneratedMix of cellulos e

    +Chemicals

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    Natural fibers O ccur in n ature O ldes t and o riginal bas e for fabrics Use of wool goes back over 4,000

    years. O btained from

    Plants: cotton, linen, jute,flax , ram ie, hemp

    Animals: wool, silk etc. Minerals: asbestos etc

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    Man-m ade fibers Made from c hem ical so lutions These have desired/ specific set of

    properties based on their chemical

    composi t ion Very recent - first commercial

    prod uc tio n o f rayo n in 1910 Examples :

    Nylon Polyester Acrylic etc

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    C haracteristicsof fibers

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    Natural F iber: Cotton

    A bso rben t & Qu ick

    drying Breathable Fair d rap e

    Sum mer Fab ric Washable Dry-cleanable Comfortable and Long

    lasting

    BENEFITSFEATURES

    Source :Cotton Plant

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    Natural F iber: L inen

    Absorbent & Quick

    drying

    G ood lus ter

    Breathable

    Tw ice as s t ron g as co t ton

    C risp feel

    Sum mer Fab ric Used as Evening

    Wear Washable and Dry-

    cleanable Comfortable

    BENEFITSFEATURES

    Source :Flax Plant

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    Natural F iber: Ram ie

    R edu ced p illing

    Silk y luster

    Resilience

    Us ually b lended w ith o ther

    fabrics

    Even ing w ear Redu ced w rink ling Ho lds b od y shape

    BENEFITSFEATURES

    Source :Bast Plant

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    Natural F iber: S ilk

    E xc ellent luster Can be in soft or cr isp

    hand feel Drapes w ell

    Used as E vening Wear

    Across types o f garments

    E xcellent shine

    BENEFITSFEATURES

    Source :Silkworm

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    Types of S ilk

    Natural S ilkw orm s feed on m ulberry

    leaves T riangular ,thin, lustrous

    Tussa r W ild cultivated silk S ilkw orm s feed on oak or

    cherry leaves B row n fiber produced is flat,

    very non-uniform ,thicker less lustrous

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    Types of S ilk

    Dupion T wo silk worm s nes

    together and form one cocoonm ade of double strand.

    F ibers not separated and giva thick and thin appearance

    Spun M ade of short fibers from

    pierced cocoons, from thfirst and last part of thcocoon

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    Natural F iber: Wool

    Excellent insulation

    property

    G oo d resilience E asy to dye

    Winter w ear

    Natu rally w rink le-free

    Available across co lou rs

    BENEFITSFEATURES

    Source :Animal hair

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    Types of W ool

    Cashmere From an As ian goat

    E xtremely f ine and soft

    Mohair From the Ango ra goat

    Smo oth and s l ippery

    High luster

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Canada_rocky_mountain_bighorn_sheep.pnghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Flock_of_sheep.jpg
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    Synthetic F iber: Nylon,Polyester

    L ightweight S trong G ood drapability A brasion resistant

    L ighter on the body

    Used for Outerwear

    Used extensively for

    sw im wear

    BENEFITSFEATURES

    Source :Chemicals

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    Synthetic F iber:Lycra>>

    Man-made fiber Retains shape o f garment Fashionable - body

    hugg ing

    Takes body sh ape

    Durable

    BENEFITSFEATURES

    Source :Spandex

    Spandex from Du pont called: Lycra

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    Regenerated F iber:Rayon

    Medium w eigh t Drapes w ell Highly abso rbent Dyes and pr ints w ell No static or piling

    problems

    Summ er wear

    Soft to the bod y

    BENEFITSFEATURES

    Source :Cellulose + Chemicals

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    Regenerated F iber:Polynosic

    Man m ade fiber Drapes w ell E xcellent luster Breathable Can be dyed in br ight

    colours

    Summ er wear

    Soft to the bod y

    BENEFITSFEATURES

    Source :Cellulose + Chemicals

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    Regenerated F iber: T encel

    Man-made fiber Ad ds sof tness Lux ur ious drape Breathable G ood absorbency

    Summ er wear

    Soft to the bod y

    Evening wear

    BENEFITSFEATURES

    Source :Cellulose of Wood Pulp+ Chemicals

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    High Perform anceFabrics

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    High PerformanceF abrics

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    Teflon K eeps fabrics look ing new er lon ger Innovative generation of stain

    protection

    Provide advanced stain protection forapparel, home furnishings, natural

    leather, su ede More without changing the look

    and feel of the products.

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    Taslon New age Nylon Quick-dry T ear- and w eather-resistan t pro p erties Colorfast Machine w ashable Suitable for sportswear, wetsuits,

    bags and camping tents

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    WoolPolyester

    Poly Wool

    45%55%

    Blending

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    Blending

    Mixing of two or more types of

    fibers B lending is d on e by weigh t only To benef i t f rom unique

    propert ies of each const i tuent

    fiber Contr ibutes to the cost of the

    garment

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    C VC / C otton R ich : C hief value co t ton Terryco t/ Po lyco t : Po lyester : cotton Terryw oo l/ Po lyw o o l : Polyester : wo o l Po lyvisco se : Polyester : visc o se

    .% o f first material > seco nd o r as

    mentioned in the product descript ioncard

    BlendingCommon B lends

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    F iber to Fabric- ValueA ddition

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    Fabric Raw cotton

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    Fabric

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    Spinning P rocess

    Fibers are usually grouped and

    twisted into a continuous

    strand called yarn s Made by twisting fibers while

    simultaneously pull ing or

    drawing the f iber ou t

    Did you kno w?

    Th e first yarns pre-date recorded history

    and w ere prob ably made in a cave accidentally

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    Carding & Combing

    Process o f making

    co tton fibers into

    lo ng leng ths o f fibers

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    Value Addition: Cost

    Why is com bed co t ton mo re expensive

    than carded co t ton ?

    Les ser im pu rities Longer fibers (shorter ones are

    eliminated)

    Combing an addi t ional processafter carding, therefore adds tothe cos t

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    Benefits of C ombed Yarn

    Fabric lo o ks bet ter Feels smoother

    Is s t ronger

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    Yarn

    Ply 2 or more single yarns

    tw isted together 2 X 2

    2 ply yarn in both w arp &w eft

    2 X 1 2 ply in w arp & singles in

    w eft

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    Benefits of P lying

    Stronger Durability enhanced

    Su rface lo o k & feel improves Reduced tend ency to pill

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    Value Addition: P lying

    Ply yarns requ ire: B etter fiber M ore labor S pecial machinery hence m or

    expensive

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    Count in W oven Us ed to express relation sh ip between

    un it leng th and w eigh t of yarns The yarn count is inversely

    prop ort ion al to w eigh t E.g.

    A 50s count spun yarn has

    two times more weight(thickness) than a 100s count

    yarn Metho d o f exp ressing

    50/1 or 50 s yarn 60/2 - two ply 60 s yarn

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    Count: C otton T ypes

    Cambric A lightw eight cotton cloth

    used as fabric for lace and

    needlew ork. C ambric, also known as

    batist in a large part of thw orld

    Drill M edium weight tw ill cotton

    fabric

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    Types of F abric

    T ypes O fFabrics

    Woven Knits N onw ovens

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    W oven Fabrics

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    Fabric-W ovens

    Yarn on 2 s ides of

    Fabric W arp (V ertical)

    W eft (Horizontal)

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    Fabric-W ovens

    E PI( E nd s p er Inch )

    Number of warps per inch

    PP I(Picks per In ch )

    Number of wefts per inch

    Imp act the finen ess of the fabric

    Directly proportional relationship

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    Fabric-W eaves

    The mos t commonly used

    weaves P lain w eave M atte w eave F il-a-fil C hambray T will weave

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    Plain W eave

    Firm and du rable Interlacement of yarns is very

    high hence, resists snagging

    and pu lling

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    Matte W eave

    A ls o k n o w n as B A S K E T W E A V E

    Variatio n o f plain w eave Uses doubled yarn to produce a

    basket l ike design on the face of the

    fabric

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    Twill Weave Creates a diagonal effect on the face of

    the fab ric

    Im po rtant features

    C ompact S trong H eavy D urable U sed for work clothes, suiting

    fabrics and dress fabrics

    E xam ple; den im, gab ardine etc.

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    Types of T will weave

    Twill

    Herringbone

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    Twill: Chino/ K hakis Chino/Khakis

    L ightweight tw ill fabric O riginally used in British and

    F rench m ilitary uniforms in them id-1800s, today it is also usedto m ake civilian clothingD id you know ?

    C hino pants gained popularity in the U S in the 1950s after militarym en returning from the

    Philippines after the S panish-A merican War brought back their cottonmilitary trousers.

    These pants were originally m ade in C hina. "Chino" is the Spanish term for Chinese , hence the fabric and

    these pants picked up the nam e.The first chinos sold in the U S w ere US Arm y m ilitary issuepants and in order to save fabric during W W I I era constraints,

    they had no pleats and w ere tapered at the bottom of the leg.T he originally military pants w ere khaki in color.

    T oday, chino pants in the U S are com monly referred to as "khakis",althou h b definition "chino is a t e of fabric and "khaki" is

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    Satin W eave

    Warpfloat

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    Special w eaves

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    Special Weave:P ile Weave Deco rative w eave Pile is formed by addit ional warp

    interlaced to form loops on the surface

    face of th e fabric Loops may be lef t uncut , or they may be

    cut to expo se yarn ends and produ ce cu t

    p ile fabric. E xam ple; co rduroy , velvet etc. Im po rtant features

    S oft, absorbent

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    Pile Weave

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    Corduroy Wo rd us ed to d escribe a type of fabric that has

    parallel, leng thw ise cord s o r ridges Derived from the French word for Cord of the

    King. Originally made of cotton, the fibers of the

    fabric are normally tw isted as they are wo ven. When the weaving is finished, the fibers create

    the lon g, parallel co rduro y pattern Today, corduroy can st i l l be made from cotton

    or any number of other fabricated fibers

    including po lyester, rayon an d acrylic. The thickness of the corduroy cords provides

    for a g enerally w arm m aterial Used for pants and jackets to be worn in

    cold clim ates, but its durability alsomakes it good upholstery for chairs andsofas.

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    Corduroy: Wales The width of a corduroy cord is

    co mm on ly called the wale T h e wideness of the wale often

    dictates the capacity in whichco rdu roy w ill be u sed

    For instance, corduroy w ithnarrow wales is usually softerto the touch, slightly lessdurable and often used forshirts, jackets or caps.

    Corduroy w ith wide wales iscommonly found on pants or

    furniture.

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    Moleskin & Corduroy Moleskin

    Woven w itha tw illedweave toform a thickdense cloth

    A cut napon one side.

    Fabric isbrushed toform thenap

    Corduroy I s longer

    wearing,thanmoleskin

    Bothhowever arerugged longlastingmaterialsprovidinggreatcom fort and

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    Velvet / Velour Velvet is one in which the cut threads

    are very evenly distributed, with ashort dense pile, giving it its distinctfeel

    Made from any fiber Woven on a special loom

    Velvet's k nitted c o un terpart is velour

    Velvet was very expensive and wasconsidered to be among the luxurygo od s to gether w ith s i lk

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    Popular Weaves

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    Chambray

    G ives two tone loo k

    Us ed in : A ll types o f garments

    H is to ry : N am ed after

    Chambrai provincein France

    C olour Warp Yarn

    Wh ite Weft Yarn

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    Fil a - F il

    Gives two tonelook

    Alternate C olour & W hite WarpYarn

    Wh ite Weft Yarn

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    Hounds tooth

    Houndstooth

    Weave : Houndstooth

    Pattern lo ok s l ike the teeth o f a dog

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    Oxford

    Weave :Oxford

    Matt feel fabric

    O f two types :

    - C lassic O xford ( Larger heads)

    - Pin Po int O xford PPO (Sm all heads)

    Us ed in :Shirts - ligh t weig hts

    Trous ers - heavy weights

    B en efit :H ard w earin g

    H is to ry :P o pu larised in the US A asproper executive wear byB rooks B rothers

    Classic PPO

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    Chiffon Weave : C h iffo n Fine crinkly fabric made of Polyester

    or Silk or any other fine yarn

    Us ed in : Ladiesw ear

    B en efit :L ig h t feel

    Fu ll drape an d fall

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    Popular Weave Weave : G eo rg ette Light crinkly fabric like chiffon made

    of Polyester or Silk or any other fine

    yarn

    Us ed in :Ladiesw ear

    B en efit :L ig h t feel

    Fu ll drap e and fall

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    Popular Weave Weave : C rep e A group of fabrics made up of yarns

    w hich have been h igh ly twisted b efore

    weaving Particular appearance considerable

    suppleness Enormous number of variet ies of

    crepe, including crepe de Chine,Moroc can crepe, crepe g eorgette.

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    Popular Patterns

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    Other patterns:Tartan/P laid

    T artan / P laid A specific woven pattern that often

    signifies a particular Scottish clanin the modern era

    Pattern is m ade with alternatingbands of coloured (pre-dyed) threadswoven as both w arp and weft aright angles to each other

    Distinctive pattern of squares andlines known as a sett. .

    Kilts almost always have tartans Tartan is also known as plaid in

    North America, but in Scotland this

    word m eans a tartan cloth slung

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Three_tartans.jpg
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    Gingham checks

    G ing ham: Yarn dyed com bed or

    carded cotton fabric woven in

    checks, s tr ipes and plaids or

    two or mo re colors Made fro m dyed co tton yarn

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    Dobby

    Motif over a fabricbase through extrayarns

    Contains s imple

    geometric forms ormotifs

    Similar in principle toJacquard

    Less complex designs

    than Jacqu ard Less expensive as

    com pared to Jacquard

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    Jacquard Extra yarns for patterning within the

    weave Contains very detailed, intricate

    motifs

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Jacquard.loom.hooks.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Jacquard.loom.cards.jpghttp://images.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=www.es-mall.com/Leather%2520Goods/wpe7.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.es-mall.com/Leather%2520Goods/leather_goods1.htm&h=427&w=300&sz=14&tbnid=QvWEqrvyVmQJ:&tbnh=120&tbnw=85&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dleather%2Bgoods%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8http://images.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=skt.comsats.net.pk/kipszer/glv.jpg&imgrefurl=http://skt.comsats.net.pk/kipszer/lgoods.htm&h=200&w=350&sz=17&tbnid=-1pFF0TeOAEJ:&tbnh=66&tbnw=115&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dleather%2Bgoods%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8
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    Other w ovens

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    Worsted Name of a yarn and cloth usually

    made from w oo l The name derives from the vil lage of

    Wo rstead [1]in No rfolk, E ng land The yarn is well twisted and spun of

    long s taple wool ( though nowadaysalso medium and short f ibres areused).

    Th e wo ol is co mb ed so that the fibreslie parallel

    Th e cloth h as a hard, smo oth texture

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    Khadi

    A special type o f hand w oven cloth in Ind ia The raw materials may be cotton, si lk or wool,

    which are spun into threads on a spinningw heel called a c harka

    The spinning of khadi was Mahatma Gandhismain means of providing self employment tothe rural po pu lace o f Ind ia

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Gandhisitting.jpg
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    Seersucker A thin all-cotton fabric, commonly

    striped Used to make clothing for summer

    wear Wo ven w ith w rink les in i t O rig inally dev elo p ed in Ind ia Became popular in the American

    south

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    Flannel Usually made from either cotton or

    w oo l and syn thetic fabric The term "flannel" is also often used

    to refer d irectly to the c lo thing createdfro m the fabric

    Clothing made from it is usually worn

    in cold weather climates due to the

    w armn ess that the fabric is k no w n for

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    Gabardine Tough, t ight ly woven fabric used to

    make s ui ts , overcoats and trou sers or

    a garmen t mad e from the m aterial

    Fibre used to make the fabric istraditionally worsted (a woolen yarn),

    but may also be cot ton, synthet ic or

    mixed.

    Fabric is s mo oth o n o ne s ide and h asa diagonally ribbed surface on the

    other

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    Denim

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    Denim : F its Straight-leg:

    Cut to fit more snuggly to the leg fromhip to ankle. No flaring

    B oot cu t: Wider at the bottom quarter of the leg to

    allow for the pant to fit over boots A good pick for girls w ith larger hips,as it makes you look more proportionate

    Low r ise: Offers a lower waist. A good pick for those with a shor

    torso, as it offers the illusion of alonger midsection

    Hipsters: Jeans rest on the hips instead of the

    waist. Good pick for those with sm aller waists

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:BlueJeans.jpg
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    Denim : F its Carpenter:

    A style of jean that has many pocketsand flared legs from hip to ankle.

    A good pick for those wanting to make astatem ent or show their style

    Cargo: Similar to the Carpenter style w ithout the

    widely-flared legs. A good pick for those wanting to hide

    or add a little shape to skinny legs. Loo se Fi t:

    Room ier in the seat and thigh to keepjeans from having the painted on look

    Good pick for those with a sm aller wais

    but larger bottom half

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:BlueJeans.jpg
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    Denim : F its Relaxed:

    A looser fit all over. Offer a "relaxed" fit for casual

    days or for when more room isneeded for activity.

    Good pick for those who don'like tight-fitting jeans but stillwant a good, flattering fit

    Flared: Wider and longer at the bottom

    quarter of the leg

    A good pick for shorter girls

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:BlueJeans.jpg
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    Denim : Patterns

    Crosshatch: The fabric base of denim. Resembles a grid- like pattern in the denim

    weave. Vintage:

    A blast from the past. A vintage wash m akes the denim look worn and old.

    Polished: Denim in its purest form w ithout any tints or blasts.

    Frayed:

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    Denim : Patterns

    Whiskered: Blasts around the front fly provide the appearance of cat whiskers.

    Distressed: Beat-up appearance may include raw edges and seam s, as w ell as

    released hem s. Ring-spun:

    Highlights the vertical pattern in the denim weave found at the base

    of the fabric.

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    Types of F abric

    T ypes O fFabrics

    Woven Knits N onw ovens

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    Courses

    Knits Fabric made by one or

    mo re threads dispos ed ina complex interlockingpattern

    T hreads are draw nthrough previouslyform ed loops andthem selves form newloops

    Wales

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Rundstrickmaschine_Zungennadeln.jpg
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    Benefits of K nits

    Knits are made by interlocking

    the yarn K n its s tretch in all directio n s

    T ake the shape of the body This contrasts w ith w oven

    cloth , w hich o n ly stretchesacros s the bias

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    Knit F abrics

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    Knits

    Terms G SM

    G ram s per square m eter

    M easures the w eight ofknitted fabric

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    Jersey Also known as s ingle

    knit Fabric has a definite

    face and back Tend ency to curl a t the

    edges Similar stretch

    proper ty on both the

    length and widthdirection

    Used to make t-shirts,men s u nd erw ear etc .

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    Rib-knit Distinct length-wise rib

    effect on both s ides ofthe fabric

    Does not curl a t the

    edges Greater elasticity in their

    w idth then leng th Used in sweater

    waistbands, knit cuffs,knit hats, mens hosieryetc

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    Purl-knit F abrics Loo k the same on both s ides of

    the fabrics. Stretches in the lengthwise

    direction Tends to l ie f la t and does not

    curl at the edg es. Good elastici ty in the length

    w ise d irection . Uses: infants wear, fancy

    sweaters and fancy garments

    parts.

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    Interlock Knits Variatio n o f the rib kn it Smooth, s table and more

    expensive.

    Used for boluses, dresses, anddressy t-shirts

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    Knitted Terry Lo op piles o n the fabric Knitted terry is softer, more

    flexible and usually more

    abso rben t than w o ven terry Uses :

    robes, beachw ear, etc.

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    Knitted V elour

    Made in the same way as the

    kn itted terry Loop pile on the fabric is cut

    and then brus hed Velours have a soft , downy

    su ede like textu re Uses :

    dresses, pantsuits, etc.

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    Miss S titch

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    Tuck S titch

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    Tricot Knit A warp knit fabric in which the fabric

    is formed by interloping adjacentp arallel yarns.

    Fabrics are porous and permeable to

    w ater vapo r and air More com fortable

    Less w eight So fter, w rin kle resistan t G oo d drapability Do no t run or fray

    More stronger

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    Fully F ashioned Knit

    A dvantages of fully fashion ed Grains perfectly matched No cutting and sewing product is linked after being

    knitted and engineered No unraveling and curling and

    skewing

    Patterns ach ieved u singfully fashion ed kn it

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    Knitted FabricDesigns

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    Knitted Designs

    D o b b y Jacquard Pique

    W affle K n its Feeder strip es A uto s t ripes E n g in eered s tripes / t ipp ed k nit R eversible two co lo ur Argyle Cable

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    Pique

    A honey combstructure on thesurface of thefabric

    Very popularw ith T -sh irts

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phloem
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    Auto

    Stripes

    Knitted Designs

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    EngineeredStripes

    Knitted Designs

    Argyle

    Cable

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    Types of F abric

    T ypes O fFabrics

    Woven Knits N onw ovens

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    Non Woven F abrics

    Fibers pasted tog ether by H eat / glue / pressure

    Used as l inings, interlining andfilling s in jack ets

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    Fiber to F abric-Value addition

    D yeing & Printing

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    Dyeing

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    Dyeing

    Is im p arting co lo ur to fab rics Tw o ways of im part ing color:

    D yeing Use chemical dyes called

    dyestuffs Treatment of fabric in water

    solutions P igments

    Microscopic- sized insolublecolored particles m ade toadhere to fabric

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    Cost E xam ple

    Example 1 Example 2Yarn Cotton Carded Yarn 10 Cotton Combed Yarn 12

    Silk Yarn 20Blending All cotton 10 Cotton 40 4.8

    Silk 60 1210 16.8

    Dyeing Piece dyeing 10 Yarn dyeing 15

    20 31.8

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    Dyeing-T ypes

    D ifferent po p ular class es o f d yes: VA T

    M ainly dark but brighterhues

    Sulphur D ark and dull hues

    Reactive F ull range of colors

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    Dyeing-M ethods

    A fabric can be dyed in 3

    d ifferent w ays: S tock and Top dyeing Y arn dyeing P iece dyeing

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    Dyeing-M ethods

    Stock and To p d yeing : H ere, the fibers are dyed

    then they are spun intoyarns

    I t is the most expensiveand effective dyeing process

    Exam ple is woolens arestock dyed

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    Dyeing-M ethods

    Yarn dyeing : Here, the yarn

    is dyed and

    then it iswoven intofabric

    Yarn dyeing isvery popular tomake stripes,checks andplaids

    This dyeing isconsidered to

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    Dyeing-M ethods

    Piece dy eing : Here, the am oun

    of fabric requiredin a particularcolour is dyed bydifferent methodsand then convertedinto garments

    Most of the dyedfabrics in themarket are piecdyed

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    Printing

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    Printing

    Dyeing in a localized patterned

    design A design imprinted or s tamped

    o n to th e fabric after it has been

    kn it ted o r w o ven

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    Printing-methods

    Po pu lar pr int ing m etho ds : Sc reen p rin tin g B lo ck p rint ing

    R o ller p rin tin g Heat tran sfer p rin tin g

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    Printing-Methods

    Screen p rinting: This process was

    earlier done by handbut now machinesare used.

    Screens are made insuch way that whereever the colour needsto be applied, they

    space is left and theother areas arecovered

    Then, colours areput on the screen.

    Those areas where

    h d

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    Printing-Methods

    B lock pr int ing : T his is an old method o

    printing by hand H ere, the design is firs

    carved out on blocks of w oodor metal T hen, the dye is applied on

    the face of the block andpressed against the fabriw hich leaves the print on thfabric

    Nowadays, block prints arused for decorative designsand are expensive

    ii h d

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    Printing-Methods

    R o ller Printing : D esign put on copper

    engraved rollers E nable printing of delicat

    designs E.g. :C losely detailed paisley

    prints S eparate engraved roller

    required foe each colour M ore expensive

    P ii M h d

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    Printing-Methods

    H eat-Tran sfer Printing : Design is firs

    printed onpaper(called transferpaper) with printing

    inks Passed through

    heat transfermachine at a hightemperature

    Used to move thedesign from onesurface to other

    Transfer printing isgenerally used to

    print figures,

    P i T

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    Prints-T ypes

    Typ es o f prints D irect prin ts D isc h arg e p rin ts R esist prin ts

    P i T

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    Prints-T ypes

    D irect Prin ts: An application print Design directly printed on a

    white or dyed fabric How to recognise:

    Background is w hite Printed design lighter in shade

    on the back of the fabric

    P it T

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    Prints-T ypes

    D isc harge P rint: Fabrics w hich are dyed to solid

    colour prior to printing When printing is done, the

    design is applied w ithscreen/roller with chemical whichremoves the color of the

    P it T

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    Prints-T ypes

    D isc h arg e Prin t: E .g: a w hite polka dot on a

    blue background can be m adfirst by dyeing the fabriblue, then printingappropriate dots w ith thchemical w hich rem oves thblue color.

    C annot make discharge printsby heat transfer method

    P it T

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    Prints-T ypes

    R esist Prin ts: I nvolve two step procedure:

    Printing a pattern design ona white fabric with achemical that will preventpenetration of dyes

    Piece dyeing the fabric R esist print include batik,

    tie& dye etc.

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    Fiber to F abric-Value addition

    Wash es & Finish es

    W shes

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    Washes

    Washes refer to finished

    g arm ents treated w ith catalys ts

    to g et th e req u ired effect

    Usual ly done on 100% Cotton

    or C ot ton b lends Normally Semiformal/casual

    garments are wash ed

    Washes -R easons for

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    washing C han ge in fabric for:

    S oftness/handle D rape

    A bsorbency C reasing A ppearance

    Luster Color Abrasion

    C reate sh rink age and p uc kering

    TypesofW ashes

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    Types of W ashes

    So ftener Wash : S implest type of wash D oes not use enzym es and is

    not harsh on the garm ent Stone Wash:

    U sed on trousers to get thfaded look

    G arments are washed withstones in presence of specialenzym es

    TypesofW ashes

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    Types of W ashes

    E nzyme Wash: This wash is

    similar to stonewash in effect

    I ts more popularand cheaper thanstone wash

    The fabric/garmen

    washed withenzym es so thathe enzymes eaaway the fabric,

    dyeetc

    Finishes

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    Finishes

    Finishes refer toprocesses/treatments a fabric is put

    through after i t has been made and

    dyed Main purpose To make the fabric

    mo re su itable fo r its intend ed en d u se Might be given for aesthetic purposes

    o r for func tion al pu rpo ses (referred toas a treatmen t)

    TypesofF inishes

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    Types of F inishes

    Mercerisation: C hem ical finish D one only on cotton

    I mparts luster and strength I t also enhances fabric hand

    feel and drapability

    TypesofF inishes

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    Types of F inishes

    Microsanding L ow er degree of emerising P hysical process and does

    not involve chemicals G ives a sm ooth hand feel to

    the fabric Peaching:

    A stronger process obrushing the fabric usingfine wire brushes

    TypesofF inishes

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    Types of F inishes

    Sand B last: J eans are blasted w ith sand

    at a very high speed w ith a

    sand gun T his results in uneven

    fading of the jeans thagives it a used look

    SpecialT reatments

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    Special T reatments

    W rin k le Free 100% cotton trousers w hich

    are given a special chem ical

    treatm ent. S uch trousers feel softer,

    have enhanced breathability,

    do not shrink or wrinkle P erfect for business m eetings

    and travel

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    Fiber to F abric-Value addition

    Embel l ishments

    Appliqu/Patchwork

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    Appliqu /Patch work

    A pattern or shape applied to the

    surface of another material fordecoration

    Us ually o f a different s had e

    C utw ork

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    C utw ork

    Badges

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    Badges

    MachineE m broidery

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    Machine E m broidery

    Sequins

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    Sequins

    Flock

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    Flock

    Felt flock

    Multi- flock

    Single flock

    Laces

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    Laces

    FeltEm broidery

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    Felt Em broidery

    Metallics

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    Metallics

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    Leather

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    Leather: S ources

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    Lam bskin - soft, classy andfashionable.

    Sheep and lamb are all categorized as

    lambskin

    Items m ade from lambs kin are very so ft andnicely grained

    G ives them a gloss y smo oth f lat surface

    Cowhide - durable and rugged andvery stylish.

    C ow sk ins are thick, hard and durable sk ins. It is tou gh and d ense, wh ich w ill help i t hold

    up to everyday wear

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    Types of L eather

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    yp

    F ull G rain /Top G rain Leather that uses the natural surface

    of the animal's skin after the hair has

    been removed

    O nly full grain/top grain c an b e markedas g enu ine leather

    A ll top grains are no t full grains To p g rain is us ed w hen the real grain is

    sanded away and an imitation grain isstamped o nto the leather

    Types of L eather

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    yp

    Nubuck N atural colour leathers wher

    the surface has been brushedand polished

    Creates a velvet like texturewith lush appearance

    Like velvet, the textured

    surface shows difference inshading w hen you run yourhand over it.

    S hould not be confused w ith

    suedeorreversedleather

    Types of L eather

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    yp

    Suede I nner side of the hide or

    skin next to the meat of thanimal

    B uffed to a sm ooth finish S uede m ay also be spli

    from a thick hide

    Types of L eather

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    yp

    Im itatio n /sy n thetic leather M aterials so made and

    finished as to resemblleather,like

    Coated fabric Rubber and rubber

    com positions

    Plastic materials T rade nam es often seen are

    Plastic calf," "plasticleather," "Compo- leather,"

    "leatherlike" or"leatherette"

    Leather-F inishes

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    E m b o s s e d To permanently imprint a unique

    effect Printed

    To make designs or patternsonto the surface

    Foiled

    By adding a colored metallic foil Laminated

    To other materials

    Characteristics of leather

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    Breath ability Pores in the leather permits

    fresh air into the shoe Moisture A bso rbency

    Absorbs m oisture from the footand vents it out of the shoe

    Customizat ion Assumes the shape of the feet

    Durability Resists tearing and puncturing

    C haracteristics of I m itationL eather

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    L eather

    B enefits are lo w er material co st G oo d f in ishes E asy maintenance Th e tw o d isadv antages are:

    I nability to breathe M em ory retention

    Leather: C are T ips

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    Why ? H igh w ear areas may be

    penetrated by: Body oils Dirt Perspiration

    C ause treatment coats to

    separate from the leathersurface

    Leather: C are T ips

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    T ip s to increase th e lo n gev ity K eep the leather pores fre

    from dust particles Wipe the leather

    weekly /monthly dependingon use

    Use a cloth dam pened w ithdistilled /purified w ater toavoid leaving lime scaleresidue, and dry w ith a sofcloth

    D ont place leather near a

    Leather: C are T ips

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    T ip s to increase th e lo n gev ity A void spraying hairspray or

    perfumes w hile w earingleather garment

    T o m aintain the perfect fit Do not loan your leather

    pieces to others

    Avoid carrying heavy objectsin your pockets

    K ey chains, Wallets etc.,

    Leather Care T ips

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    Storing Yo ur Leather D on't store your leathers in

    plastic Water can condense inside

    the plastic and m ildew yourleather

    Once leather gets m ildewed, iusually cannot be saved

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    Product C ode

    Product C oding

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    The article code can be divided in 4 or 5 fields that give basicinform ation abo ut the style. Fo r exam ple in style #3 680 E 1439,wo uld give the following information :

    Field (i) : 3 ~ Pro ductio n D ivis io n Field (ii) : 680 ~ Yarn o r fab ric co d e

    Field (iii) : E 1439 represen t the s tyle co de - In a few cases, there may be certain suffixes added to the style

    code. These could be - # means reorder or f lash BKJ (used individually or in combination) referring to the sizes

    being d one in the part icular O12 style.

    Fabric code

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    Th e B enetton system g ives each yarn/ fabric a uniquecode, incorporated in the style code. Some of thecommonly used yarns/ fabrics in each division arement ioned b elow

    DIV 1 (trico t)1 092/ 292/ 392/ 492 -100% Cotton2 222 -Cotton Acrylic

    (55-45%)

    DIV 1 (wo ol)1 009/ 209 -A crylic Wool (50-50% )]2 021/ 221/ 321 -Lam bs wool

    Nylon (80-20% )

    Note that the same yarn may start with a 0, 2, 3 or 4.This depends on the number of pl ies of the yarn usedin the garment. For 1 ply cotton, it would be 092, for 2ply it would be 292, for 3 ply it would be 392, and so

    Fabric code

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    D IV 3- K nits094-100% Cotton, single jersey, 180

    gsm

    096-100% Cotton, single jersey, 150

    gsm751-100% Cotton, single jersey, 240

    gsm

    089-100% Cotton, P ique, 210 gsm

    (2ply yarn)680-95% C otton 5% Spandex, S ingle

    J ersey, 180 gsm

    669-93% C otton 7% Spandex, S ingle

    J ersey, 240 gsm

    Fabric code

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    D IV 2, 4, 5 (W ov ens )029-2 ply chinos

    027-100% C otton T will

    211-S tretch tw ill 97% Cotton, 3%

    spandex037-100% C otton S heeting

    036-11 w ale corduroy, 100% C otton

    Z10 -S tretch cord

    212-S tretch Poplin

    060-100% C otton poplin

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    Thank you