See

Run Spots

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october 2008

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beauty

■ By Jolene edgar

These scienTifically proven sTraTegies give brown sploTches and discoloraTion The booT

speed up the production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin color. For extra protection, layer it over a cream or lotion that contains an antioxidant such as green tea, coffee berry, or vitamin C.

At-Home FixesoTc options may take months to show improvement, but they’re budget friendly and the least irritating.Step 1 Apply a product with 2% hydro-quinone (see picks at right) directly onto spots. The most potent skin lightener, HQ suppresses the enzyme needed for melanin production. Diligent nightly application can result in complete clear-ing of mild to moderate spots within 4 weeks, says Heather Woolery-Lloyd, MD, an assistant professor of dermatol-ogy at the University of Miami School of Medicine. One caveat: Even low doses of HQ can cause irritation; to lower the risk, start by applying every other evening and build up to nightly use. Step 2 Once spots subside, switch to a cream with glucosamine or niacina-mide (a B vitamin) to maintain results.ConSider Sepiwhite. This new

When Lady Macbeth cries, “Out, damn’d spot!” the mark she

berates is marring her conscience—not her complexion. Lucky her. A lifetime of sun exposure means that the spots on your face are probably as plain as day. “This discoloration doesn’t discriminate—it’s a problem that all women over 40 eventually develop,” says Susan Taylor, MD, director of the Skin of Color Center at St. Luke’s-Roos-evelt Hospital in New York City. Even if skin is wrinkle free, the resulting spots can add years to your look, mak-ing others view you as unhealthy and up to 10 years older, according to recent research. Still, spots needn’t drive you mad. Whether you want to treat them yourself or visit a pro, a range of remedies—from bleaching agents to high-tech lasers—will help you see speckled skin isn’t a tragedy after all.

the MoSt iMportant Step to preventing SpotSApply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 (30 is best) every day. This blocks the UV rays that

if you’re seeing dark patches above the lip, on the forehead, or along the temples, you may have melasma. “a boost in estrogen from preg-nancy, hormone therapy, or birth control pills is the most likely culprit,” says dover. Melasma may

clear once hormones stabilize, but treatment is usually needed.

The oTc potions that fade sun spots deliver modest improvement. a more potent rx bleacher such as Tri-luma (with 4% hQ, a retinoid, and a skin-calming cortisone)

often delivers complete clearing after 3 months.

for stubborn cases, a fractionated laser like fraxel can erase discolor-ation after four to six ses-sions at $1,130 per visit. Uv exposure exacerbates melasma, so protect skin daily with sunscreen.

MySteRy SpotS, explAined

october 2008102 ■ prevention.com

beauty

nonirritating bleacher for mild mottling does double duty: It suppresses the production of melanin and its migra-tion into skin cells, explains Jeffrey Dover, MD, a clinical associate profes-sor of dermatology at Yale University. Studies show that Sepiwhite signifi-cantly increases luminosity and lightened spots in 2 months. For even faster clearing, use an exfoliator with retinol or glycolic acid to drive any bleacher deeper into skin.

in-office Solutionsalthough more costly, rx remedies are faster, sometimes immediate solutions. Step 1 Use an rx retinoid nightly to speed cell turnover and even skin tone. Step 2 Pair your retinoid with an Rx 4% HQ cream. The combo can elimi-nate the most severe spots in as little as 4 to 6 weeks. Both ingredients are irritating, so use as advised. To avoid worsening discoloration, apply for no longer than 60 days in a row three times a year, says Taylor. ConSider microdermabrasion or chemical peels. They even out mottling by polishing skin’s surface or dissolving dead cells. Plan on three to five treat-ments at about $200 a pop. ConSider light therapy. Intense pulsed light therapy (IPL) offers the fastest fix, zapping away both brown and red pigment, making it ideal for those who also have broken capillaries or ruddiness. “The light superficially burns the spots and makes them a bit darker for a couple of days,” says Woolery-Lloyd. “They peel off in less than a week, revealing fresh skin.”

4 ligHteneRS tHAt Hit tHe Spot

(Pictured left to right)

For all SignS oF aging The pro-niacin in nia24 Skin Strengthening Complex ($85; nia24.com) smooths fine lines and keeps darkening at bay.

For SenSitive Skin With botanical lighteners and anti-inflammatories, dermelect Cosmeceuticals Beautone enlightening Facial Brightener Serum ($45; dermelect.com) clears and calms skin.

For Small SpotS Sepiwhite-packed olay definity night anti-Spot treat-ment ($25; drugstores) makes it easy to target dark marks.

For oily Skin A lightweight serum with hydroquinone and salicylic acid, ddF Fade gel 4 ($52; Sephora) banishes blotches and blemishes.

prevention.com ■ 103 october 2008

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your Skin—younger! find a free customized plan for a beautiful complexion at prevention.com/perfectskin.

Depending on the severity of your discoloration, you’ll need three to six monthly treatments at about $250 a ses-sion. Expect slight stinging and redness that disappears within a few days.