PREPARATION AND EVALUATION OF HERBAL LIPSTICKS USING...

Abstract

Cosmetics are incredible in demand since historical time till day. Lipstick formulations are most widely used to enhance the beauty of lips and add glamour to touch to the makeup. With this aim and objectives, an attempt was made to formulate herbal lipstick by using coloring pigments of Solnum locopersicum and the lipsticks were evaluated for their organoleptic properties such as hardness,

Hsolubility, P etc. Due to various adverse effects of available synthetic preparation, the present work was conceived to formulate a herbal lipsticks having minimal or no side effects which will extensively used by the women of our communities with great surety.

Key words

Solanum lycopersicum, herbal lipstick, Formulation, cosmetics

ARTICLE INFO:

Corresponding Author:

INTRODUCTION

www.ujpsr.com 23 Vol.2, Issue 2

RESEARCH ARTICLEDepartment of Pharmacognosy

Munmun et.al / UJPSR / 2 (2), 2016, 23-29e ISSN: 2454-3764

Print ISSN: 2454-3756DOI: 10.21276/UJPSR.2016.02.02.24

PREPARATION AND EVALUATION OF HERBAL LIPSTICKS USING NATURAL PIGMENT LYCOPENE (Solanum lycopersicum)

Munmun Dhakal*, Prabal Sharma, Shuvo Ghosh, Biswaraj Paul, Sonam Bhutia, Prosanta Pal

Department of Pharmacognosy, Himalayan Pharmacy Institute, Majhitar, Sikkim, INDIA

Article history:

Received:

15 August 2016

Received in revised form:

23 September 2016

Accepted: 02 October 2016

Available online: 10 November 2016

Prosanta Pal

Department of Pharmacognosy

Himalayan Pharmacy Institute

Majhitar, Sikkim, 737136, INDIA

Email: [email protected]

Phone: +917602893704

Cosmetics are substances used to increase the appearance of the human body. Cosmetics include skincare creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toe nail polish, eye and facial makeup, permanent waves, colored contact lenses, hair colors, hair sprays and gels, deodorants, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath salts, butters and many other types of cosmetic formulations are in great demand in both developing and developed countries [1]. A large number of cosmetic and toiletry formulations have been formulated based up on Indian Herbs recently. Other than traditionally documented applications, some modern trials have also been using the utility of Indian herbs in Personal Care products. The demand of herbal medicines is growing rapidly due to their skin friendliness and less side effects. The best thing of the herbal cosmetics is that it is purely made by the herbs and shrubs and thus is side-effects free.

The natural content in the herbs does not have any side effects on the human body; instead provide the body with nutrients and other useful minerals [2]. The advantages of Herbal Cosmetics over Synthetic are herbal cosmetics are the modern trend in the field of beauty and fashion. These agents are gaining popularity as now a days most women prefer natural products over chemicals for their personal care to increase their beauty as these products supply the body with nutrients and also enhance health and provide satisfaction as these are free from synthetic chemicals and have relatively less side-effects compared to the synthetic cosmetics. The name itself suggests that herbal cosmetics are natural and free from all the harmful synthetic chemicals which otherwise may prove to be toxic to the skin. Instead of traditional synthetic products different plant parts and plant extracts are used in these products, e.g. aloe-vera gel and coconut oil. They




Print ISSN: 2454-3756DOI: 10.21276/UJPSR.2016.02.02.24composed of natural nutrients like Vitamin E that keeps skin healthy, glowing and beautiful. For example, Aloevera is a herbal plant species belonging to liliaceae family and is naturally and easily available [3]. There are increasing number of consumers concerned about ingredients such as synthetic chemicals, mineral oils who demand more natural products with traceable and more natural ingredients, free from harmful chemicals and with an emphasis on the properties of botanicals [4]. Compared to other beauty products, natural cosmetics are safe to use. They are hypo-allergenic and tested and proven by dermatologists to be safe to use anytime, anywhere. Since they are made of natural ingredients, people don't have to worry about getting skin rashes or experience skin itchiness. Example - BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole) and BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) are closely related synthetic antioxidants and are used as preservatives in lipsticks and moisturizers [5]. Natural cosmetics are suitable for all skin types. No matter if you are dark or fair, you will find natural cosmetics like foundation, eye shadow, and lipstick which are appropriate irrespective of your skin tone. Women with oily or sensitive skin can also use them and never have to worry about degrading their skin condition. Coal tar-derived colors are used extensively in cosmetics, Coal tar is recognized as a human carcinogen and the main concern with individual coal tar a color (whether produced from coal tar or synthetically) is they can cause cancer [6]. 'Cosmeceuticals' is fastest growing segment of the beauty industry. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic-pharmaceutical products intended to improve the health and beauty of the skin by providing a specific result, ranging from acne-control and anti-wrinkle effects, to sun protection. The concept discovered by Dr. Albert klingman states that 'The Cosmeceuticals are topical agents that are distributed acrossbroad spectrum of

materials, lying somewhere between pure cosmetics (lipstick and rouge) and pure drug (antibiotics, corticosteroids) [7]. The drugs and cosmetic Act 1940 defines a drug and a cosmetic as; Drug-“ All medicines for internal or external use of human beings or animals and all substances intended to be used for the diagnosis, treatment, mitigation or prevention of any disease or disorder in humans or animals” [8]. Cosmetic-“Any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or introduced into or applied to any part of the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes any article intended for use as a component of cosmetic” [9]. Lycopene belongs to a group of naturally occurring pigments known as carotenoids. Lycopene is a natural constituent of red fruits and vegetables and of certain algae and fungi. Tomatoes and tomato-based products are the major sources of lycopene in the human diet. In analogy to other carotenoids, lycopene occurs in various geometrical configurations. Lycopene present in fresh tomatoes consists predominantly of all trans lycopene. The synthetic lycopene described in this dossier contains approximately 70% of all-trans-lycopene, up to 23% of 5-cis-lycopene, and minor quantities of other cis-isomers. Synthetic lycopene is produced by the Wittig condensation of synthetic intermediates that are also used in the production of other carotenoids used in food. Lycopene is unstable when exposed to oxygen and light. To assure adequate stability, synthetic lycopene is stored under nitrogen or other inert gas in light proof containers. Commercial lycopene preparations intended for use in food are formulated as suspensions in edible oils or as water dispersible powders and are stabilized with antioxidants. Synthetic lycopene is intended for use in a wide range of foods at levels from 2 to 130 mg/kg [10].

Fig.1: laboratory prepared lipstick from lycopene





METHODOLOGY

ISOLATION PROCEDURE OF LYCOPENE FROM TOMATO

Extracting the Lycopene:

Column chromatographic technique was followed to

isolate lycopene from tomato. Alumina was used as an

adsorbent. To measure the adsorbent, the column was

filled one half to two thirds, and then the powder was

poured into a 10 ml Erlenmeyer flask. The column was

clamped in a vertical position and the valve was closed.

Then the column was filled with hexane to the top of the

glass column. 8 ml of hexane was added to the adsorbent

Preparation of the column

in the flask, the mixture was stirred to eliminate air

bubbles and then it was introduced into the column. he

valve was opened, some solvent was drained into the

flask that had the adsorbent in it . After transferring all the

slurry an empty flask was placed under the column and

the solvent was allowed to drain to about 5 mm above the

top surface of the adsorbent.

About 1.0 - 1.5 gram of tomato paste was weighed into a

25 ml of Erlenmeyer flask. The solid material was

extracted by swirling the Erlenmeyer flask with a 5 ml

portion of a 50% (by volume) mixture of acetone and low

boiling petroleum ether. Large clumps were broken with

a spatula. The solution was filtered in a Pasteur pipette

and the filtrate was collected in a large test tube. A second

5 ml portion of acetone – petroleum ether mixture was

extracted and it was passed through the Pasteur pipette.

The combined extracts was washed with 5 ml of saturated

aqueous NaCl. The aqueous wash was removed with a

Pasteur pipette. It was then washed with 5ml of 10%

aqueous K CO . The aqueous wash was removed again. 2 3

Finally it was washed with another 5 ml of saturated

aqueous NaCl and the aqueous layer was removed. The

lycopene containing organic layer was dried by using

anhydrous Na SO .The solution was removed with a 2 4

Pasteur pipette and it was transferred into a 50 ml

reaction flask. It was then rinsed with 5 ml of

acetone–petroleum ether mixture and the organic layer

was removed again. Finally the solvent was evaporated

using rotary vacuum evaporator [11].

Elution technique

About 1 ml of hexane was added to the top and then:

1. The valve was opened, the solvent was allowed

to drain close to the top of the adsorbent and then

the valve was closed.

2. The lycopene sample was carefully added to the

prepared column in such a manner that the top

surface of the column should not disturbed.

3. The step 1 was repeated.

4. 1 ml of hexane was added again to the top of the

column.

5. The step was repeated.

6. A second 1 ml of fresh hexane was carefully

added to the top of the column.

7. The step 1 was repeated.

8. The column was filled with the solvent and the

sample was eluted from the column. The yellow

carotene was collected. Then it was switched to

10% acetone - hexane to elute the lycopene from

the column. The isolated lycopene was analyzed

spectroscopically as soon as possible.





Fig.2: Colum chromatography of Lycopene

Crystallizing the Lycopene

Fig.3: A fully ripe tomato

PREPARATION OF LIPSTICK FROM LYCOPENE

The lipstick was prepared by taking the following ingredients:

Table1: Composition

Bees wax 4 gram

Paraffin oil 0.4 ml

Castor oil 5 ml

Lycopene 50 mg

The lycopene containing eluate was concentrated to a small volume by evaporating with a stream of aior at room temperature. Then it was cooled on ice to

obtain crystals of lycopene. The crystals was allowed to dry and the melting point was determined.





The following evaluation test was carried out for lipstick [13-15]

Colour of Lipstick

The colour examination plays very important role for its look of attractiveness. The colour of the prepared lipstick was observed in the board day light and found to be yellowish red.

Melting point

Determination of melting point is important as it is an indication of the limit of safe storage. The melting point of formulated lipstick was determined by capillary tube method. The capillary was filled, kept in the capillary apparatus and firstly observed the product was slowly melted. After sometimes the product was completely melted.

Breaking point

Breaking point is done to determine the strength of lipstick. The lipstick is held horizontally in a socket ½ inch away from the edge of support. The weight is gradually increased by a specific value (10 gm.) at specific interval of 30 seconds and weight at which breaks is considered as the breaking point.

Force of application

It is test for comparative measurement of the force to be applied for application. A piece of coarse brown paper can be kept on a shadow graph balance and lipstick can be applied at 45° angle to cover 1 sq. inch area until fully covered. The pressure reading is an indication of force of application

Surface anomalies

This is studied by the surface defects, such as no formation of crystals on surfaces, no contamination by moulds, fungi etc.

Aging stability

The product was stored at 40°C at 1hrs. Various parameters such as bleeding, crystallization on surface and ease of application were observed.

Solubility test:

The formulation herbal lipstick was dissolved in various

solvents like actone, hexane, petroleum ether, water, alcohol etc. & the solubility was observed.

pH parameter:

The pH of formulated herbal lipstick was determined using standard pH paper.

Skin irritation test:

It is carried out by applying product on the skin for 10 min.

Perfume stability:

The formulation herbal lipstick was tested after 30 days, to record the fragrance.

Preparation of lipstick from lycopene

4 grams of the beeswax was weighed accurately and it

was taken in a 50 ml beaker. Then it was melted by

keeping on the water bath. 0.4 ml of the paraffin oil was

added to it. 5 ml of castor oil and 50 mg of lycopene were

measured and added to the mixture. It was stirred

continuously for about 2 minutes to convert into a viscous

paste. A mould was taken and in its inner surface little

amount of castor oil was applied for lubrication. Then the

viscous preparation was added quickly into the mould

and it was then kept in the refrigerator. Finally the lipstick

was removed from the mould and various parameters

were judged [12].

SL. EVALUATION INFERENCE

1. Colour Yellowish red

2. PH 6.5

3. Skin irritation No

4. Melting point o175 C

5. Breaking point 31

6. Force of application Good

7. Perfume stability Good

8. Surface anomalies No

9. Ageing stability Smooth

10. Solubility Soluble

EVALUATION OF THE HERABAL LIPSTICK

Table2: Evaluation parameter





Fig.4: Solubility of lipstick Fig.5: pH Test of lipstick

RESULT AND DISCUSSIONDifferent natural ingredients were used for the formulation of the herbal lipstick that contains the colouring agent lycopene obtained from Solanum lycopersicum. The lipstick was evaluated through various parameters and was found to pass these

CONCLUSIONThe research provides guidelines on the use of herbal ingredients in preparation of lipstick having minimal /no side effects. The natural ingredients like castor oil, beeswax etc. were used in the preparation of herbal lipstick along with lycopene as colouring agent. The

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