Post-harvest Processing : The Fermentation and Drying of …Drying of Cocoa Optimizing cocoa...

The Manufacturing Confectioner • August 2018 31 ➤ S ix principle factors influence the quality of chocolate. Three of these factors are controlled on the farm while the other three are controlled in the factory. Farm factors are the genetics of the planted cocoa, the terroire (environmental conditions) and the post-harvest practices used in the prepara- tion of the cocoa for market. Factory-based factors include the bean blend, roasting and the final chocolate-making process. Although post-harvest processing, which includes both fermentation and drying, is just one of these six factors, it is important in the development of the flavor we call chocolate. Post-harvest processing influ- ences the development of aromatic com- pounds and the precursors of chocolate flavor. The microbial sequences that occur in the pulp and the biochemical reactions they induce in the bean cotyledon are greatly impacted by harvesting. It is important to review the factors influencing the quality of fermentation as well as the process tech- niques that optimize final quality of fer- mented and dried cocoa. THE ORIGIN OF FERMENTATION The cocoa tree originated in the Upper Ama- zon Basin; however, it was first domesticated north of the Andes. How it crossed the cordillera and became established in Central America is a topic for another discussion. The fresh cocoa seed is encased in an acidic pulp rich in mono- and disaccharides and vitamin C. The early Amerindians cer- tainly collected these fruits and enjoyed eat- ing the sugary pulp. By chance, or possibly by selective breeding, the variety that spread through Central America to Mexico had rounder beans with white or pale violet cotyledons and less pulp (Figure 1). The variety that spread through Amazonia south of the Andes had flatter and more oval beans and deep purple cotyledons. The white- beaned variety had a mild and nutty flavor and was less bitter than the purple bean variety and could be dried in the sun and eaten. The white-beaned variety of cocoa domesticated by the early Mesoamericans was what we call today ancient criollo, to distinguish it from modern criollo, which has some trinitario genetics. It is a rare com- modity and personally, the author finds its Post-harvest Processing: The Fermentation and Drying of Cocoa Optimizing cocoa fermentation and drying plays a key role in influencing the taste and quality of finished chocolate. Ray Major RAMajor, LLC Ray Major retired from The Hershey Company after 39 years. His vari- ous positions included managing its global cocoa sustainability program. Today, he is a consultant focused on tropical agriculture, cocoa production, processing, chocolate making and sustainability.

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Transcript of Post-harvest Processing : The Fermentation and Drying of …Drying of Cocoa Optimizing cocoa...

Page 1: Post-harvest Processing : The Fermentation and Drying of …Drying of Cocoa Optimizing cocoa fermentation and drying plays a key role in influencing the taste and quality of finished

The Manufacturing Confectioner • August 2018 31

➤

Six principle factors influence the quality

of chocolate. Three of these factors are

controlled on the farm while the other three

are controlled in the factory. Farm factors

are the genetics of the planted cocoa, the

terroire (environmental conditions) and the

post-harvest practices used in the prepara-

tion of the cocoa for market. Factory-based

factors include the bean blend, roasting and

the final chocolate-making process.

Although post-harvest processing, which

includes both fermentation and drying, is

just one of these six factors, it is important

in the development of the flavor we call

chocolate. Post-harvest processing influ-

ences the development of aromatic com-

pounds and the precursors of chocolate fla-

vor. The microbial sequences that occur in

the pulp and the biochemical reactions they

induce in the bean cotyledon are greatly

impacted by harvesting. It is important to

review the factors influencing the quality

of fermentation as well as the process tech-

niques that optimize final quality of fer-

mented and dried cocoa.

THE ORIGIN OF FERMENTATION

The cocoa tree originated in the Upper Ama-zon Basin; however, it was first domesticatednorth of the Andes. How it crossed thecordillera and became established in CentralAmerica is a topic for another discussion.The fresh cocoa seed is encased in an

acidic pulp rich in mono- and disaccharidesand vitamin C. The early Amerindians cer-tainly collected these fruits and enjoyed eat-ing the sugary pulp. By chance, or possiblyby selective breeding, the variety that spreadthrough Central America to Mexico hadrounder beans with white or pale violetcotyledons and less pulp (Figure 1). The vari-ety that spread through Amazonia south ofthe Andes had flatter and more oval beansand deep purple cotyledons. The white-beaned variety had a mild and nutty flavorand was less bitter than the purple bean vari-ety and could be dried in the sun and eaten.The white-beaned variety of cocoa

domesticated by the early Mesoamericanswas what we call today ancient criollo, todistinguish it from modern criollo, whichhas some trinitario genetics. It is a rare com-modity and personally, the author finds its

Post-harvest Processing:The Fermentation and Drying of CocoaOptimizing cocoa fermentation and drying plays a key role in influencing the taste and quality of finished chocolate.

Ray MajorRAMajor, LLC

Ray Major retired fromThe Hershey Companyafter 39 years. His vari-ous positions includedmanaging its globalcocoa sustainability program. Today, he is a consultant focused on tropical agriculture,cocoa production, processing, chocolatemaking and sustainability.