Poorti Khorwal

Project Report on

Women's Western Wear

Submitted to

Dezyne E’cole College

Towards the Partial Fulfillment for

Award of Diploma in Fashion Technology

As Technical Knowledge Development to

Women’s Wear

Included With Diploma Program Of

Fashion Technology

By

POORTI KHORWAL

Dezyne E’cole College Ajmer

Address, 106/10, civil lines, Ajmer

Tel. no.0145 2624679

www.dezyneecole.com

2014-2015

http://www.dezyneecole.com/

The Project of Ms. POORTI KHORWAL has been Checked &

has been graded as

Dezyne E’cole College

Civil Lines, Ajmer

www.dezyneecole.com

Thank you Principal (Seal &Signature)

http://www.dezyneecole.com/

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I am deeply grateful to all those whose guidance has been of

tremendous value and enabled me to complete this project

successfully.

I am thankful to all my mentors of Dezyne E’ cole who

gave me an opportunity to show my abilities by working on this

project on the esteem organization.

POORTI KHORWAL

1ST Year diploma in Fashion Technology

1. Fashion as a Person’s Image

2. Fashion Industry

3. Learning Experience

4. Foundation Design

5. Corel Draw

6. Fashion illustration

7. Pattern Engineering

8. Measurement techniques

9. Draping

10.Fabric Manipulation

11.Element and Principle of

Design

12.Trible Art

CONTENT

Fashion is a more then wearing good clothes it is about presenting a

person’s image in Society , we generally see people accepting fashion

due to pee pressure, Image in the society and when a person wants a

change to brighten his life. There are many reasons behind what we wear.

• Protection from cold ,rain and snow :- Mountain climbers wear high –

tech outwear to avoid frostbite and over – exposure.

• Physical attention :- Many styles are worn to inspire “chemistry”.

• Emotions :- we dress “up” when we’re happy and “down” when we’re

upset.

• Religious expression :- Orthodox Jewish men wear long part of their

body except their eyes.

• Identification and tradition :- Judges wear robes ,people in the military

wear uniform, brides wear long white dresses.

Fashion as a Person’s Image

Within the sphere of Technology Industries , design technology is

perhaps the fastest growing today. with new technologies emerging

rapidly and industries changing complexion, more and more job

opportunities are up for the taking .It is estimated that India will have a

shortfall of five lakh people in the design sector by 2010-11 but not all

gradates will be employable .Thus bringing the gap between talent and

the skills required by the industry is important. only Today, one in every

four designers is employable and only 10% of the design graduates

manage to get employment in the design industry. Hence the student

should understand the basic requirement of the industry and exhibit that

ability .

Fashion industry

Learning Experience

This is what I learn here at Dezyne E’cole college creating fashion

doesn’t entail a vivid imagination and instinct for creativity. It also

involve many decisions and myriad techniques , focus on a central

idea. Dezyne E’cole Fashion design made me build a strong

foundation in terms of design sence, Conceptualisation

independent research ,creative application and artistic experience

As a part of fashion industry I am training my self through formal

education in Diploma programme in build with this study. During

the course duration of diploma programme I had an exposure

towards practical working in fashion design.

FOUNDATION DESIGN

COLOUR INPACT IN DESIGN

Colour is a most vital tool in the hands of fashion designer. It is the

most perceptible and hence is a central to success and failure of a

designer scheme.it is therefore very important designer that a

designer has a full knowledge and understanding of its tool

Warm and cool colours

Variation in Cool Color Blue

Variation in Cool Color Yellow

Variation in Cool Color Red

Comparing Value of Colors

The Yellow is lighter

value then Red

The Blue color is

Darker value then

Orange

The Green is lighter

value then Brown

The Dark Green is

equal in the value to

the Brown

Compare the Blue and Red Rectangles to the Grey

Rectangles or either side of each color. Which Grey is equal in

value to the color ? It may be helpful to stand at a distance

and blur your eyes. If the edge between the two area

disappears, the values are equal.

Simultaneous Contrast

Gradation

Corel Draw

ILLUSTRATION

COLLARS

Bertha deep

neckline Bertha Tie

Bertha Buster

Brown Style

Bertha Knotted

Ends

Bertha Yoke

style

Bertha - Braid

Edge Trim

POKKETS

Bellow Cargo

Cargo front

Kangaroo Flap Shape Stitched

Patch Button Flap

SLEEVES

Layered Sleeve Layered Sleeve Tulip Sleeve

Bushirt Sleeve Puff Sleeve

PATTERN ENGINEERING

Garment Construction

Fashion Designing runs the garment from eveningwear to sportswear,

Women’s wear to Men’s wear and Kids wear to knitwear. Garment

Construction is popularly called Pattern Engineering has a great

importance in fashion design industry. The Companies like van

heuson,dockers levis, adidas etc. are the providers of perfect fit and

this is what we learn at Dezyne E’cole through the art of pattern

making.

A slop pattern [ home sewing ] and block pattern [ industrial

production ] is custom – fitted basic pattern from which pattern for

many different styles can be developed.

The Draping method involves creating a Maslin mock up by pinning

fabric directly on a form then transferring the muslin outline and

makings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin as the pattern it self.

The flat pattern Draping method is the most commonly used method in

Menswear.

Tools & Equipment

The Flat pattern method where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat

surface from measurements ,using the ruler and curve and straight

Edges. As a fashion designer I use various tools and measuring

devices to create a toil pattern on dummy.

Measuring Tape Seam Ripper Scissor

Drafting Scale Tailoring Chalk French curve

Pattern Making Symbols

Various signs & symbol of Pattern

Making Which I Generally use on pattern :-

Various signs & symbol of Pattern Making Which I Generally use on pattern :-


Notches

Notches :- •Seam allowance

•Center Line

•Ease $ Gather Control •Dart Legs •Identification of Front & Back •Identification of Joining Parts •Zipper Placement

•Facing

•Hemline

•Waistline

•Shoulder Tip

•Sleeve Cap

Punch / Circle :- •Dart intake

•Corners

•Buttons / Buttonholes

•Trimmings

•Pocket placement

Jog Seam :- A jog seam is used to indicate a

change in the seam allowance. ¼ inch : •All faced areas

•Narrow spacing

•Extreme curve

•Sleeveless armhole ½ inch : •Side seam

•Waist line

•Center line

•Styline 1 inch : •Shoulder 2 inch : •Straight Hemline

LANDMARKS

Number refers to both front & back

wherever indicated :-

1. Center Front Neck Center

Back Neck

2. Center Front Waist Center

Back Waist

3. Bust Point

4. Center Bus Level

5. Center Front [Princess line] Center

Back [Princess line

6. Mid Armhole front Mid Armhole

Back

7. Shoulder Tip

8. Shoulder at Neck

9. Armhole Ridged or Roll Line

10.Plate Screw

11.Armhole Plate

Measurements

The flat- pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on the

flat surface measurement . Under garment construction we learn about

the measuring techniques on the dress form. That can be seen here:-

Different ways to taking measurements:-

• Circumference measurements

• Horizontal measurements

• Vertical measurements

Circumference Measurements

Circumference Measurements

SIZE = 34”

Round Bust

measurement

Round Waist measurement

Round Abdomen measurement

Vertical Measurements

SIZE = 34’’

Front length

Measurement

Shoulder Slope

Measurement

Full length

Measurement

Vertical Measurements

Horizontal Measurement

Horizontal Measurement

SIZE = 34”

Across shoulder Measurement

Across Chest Measurement

Abdomen Arc Measurement

Women’s basic bodices Block

Back part Front part

Women’s Basic Sleeve Block

Women’s simple blouse (front )

Kameej (Kurta)

Churidaar Paijama

6 panel petticoat

4 panel petticoat

Belted kalidar salwar

Women’s Basic Bodice Block

Women’s Simple Blouse

Kameez (Kurta)

Churidar pajama

4 Panel petticoat

6 Panel petticoat

Belted Kalidar Salwar

Patiyala Salwar

Haulter Neck Top

Choli Blouse

Night Suit Top

Night Suit Pajama

My Creation in Garment construction

Dart Manipulation

Dart Manipulation is a slash spread and pivotal transfer making

technique to transfer dart excess to one location to another for

design variation .It is a beginning of pattern manipulation for

generating design patterns. It require both artistic and technical

skills to manage and control the pattern.

PRINCIPLE 1

One Dart Series

Two Dart Series

A Dart may be transfer to any

location around the pattern

outlines from the designated

pivotal point without affecting

the size or fit of the garment.

PRINCIPLE 2 Added fullness

To increase garment to an amount

greater then that provided by the

dart excess of working pattern.

The length and the width within

the pattern’s outline must be

increased.

PRINCIPLE 3 Contouring

To fit the contour of the upper torso closer then the basic garment

the pattern must be reduced within its frame to fit the dimension of

the body above, below and between the bust mounds and shoulder

blades.

SINGLE DART SERIES

French Dart

Front view

Side View

Back view

SINGLE DART SERIES

Mid Shoulder Dart

SINGLE DART SERIES

Mid Armhole Dart

SINGLE DART SERIES

Mid Shoulder and Waist Dart

SINGLE DART SERIES

Mid Armhole and Waist Dart

SINGLE DART SERIES

Side and Waist Dart

Tuck Dart

Pleat Dart

RADIATING DART

Neck Radiating Dart

Parallel Dart

PRINCESS PANEL

Mid Shoulder Princess Panel (Waist)

PRINCESS PANEL

Mid Shoulder Princess Panel (Torso)

Front view

PRINCESS PANEL

Mid Armhole Princess Panel (Torso)

DART CLUSTERS

Shoulder Dart Cluster

Front View Back view

Side View Top View

DART CLUSTERS

Waist Dart Cluster

GATHERS

Gathers At Neck

GATHERS

Gathers At Princess Line

Haulter Neck Line

FABRIC MANIPULATION

For any Fashion Designer fabric first

needs to be prepared with textures and

then used for style and design

development. Style requires plain

textures and sometimes textured fabric to

be create better style. Presenting few

best ideas of textures which I learnt at

my study of Fashion Design at Dezyne

E‟cole College

Fabric Manipulation

ELEMENTS

AND

PRINCIPLES

OF

DESIGN

NEW LOOK IN MEN’S WEAR

CONTENTS

• Introduction

• Color Blocking

• Floral

• Tie & Die

• Tribal

• Checks

• Strips

• During summer season a craze is set it’s eyes on techniques prints and patters in fashion men’s wear.

• The two major trend of TIE & DIE and COLOR BLOCKING of women’s wear has now also launched in men's wear fashion technology.

• Now world accepted this major trends of checks, strips, floral and tribal with a global unsexes wear.

INTRODUCTION

Color Blocking

• Under color blocking bright and contrasting colors like blue , yellow, green and red and other soft and neutral tone like light blue , and baize has now made glamour’s world for men’s wear fashion technology.

• With a right attitude and accersiers every tom dick and herry can easily carry out this outfit.

FLORAL

• After successfully accepted a trend of floral in women’s wear.

• Now it is also launched in men’s wear fashion technology

• This trend is almost comes in outfits of trouser, shirts and also on jackets.

TIE & DIE

• After being strongly popular the TIE & DIE

trends in women’s wear. This is also comes in

western fashion technology.

• And now this trends comes with blazer and

floral cut shirt.

TRIBAL

• Tribal collection mean’s “AADI-WASI-TOUCH

• This collection has shows its cultural activities

Old fashion black & white checks now comes again with a more colored and with a small size to big one on shirts, blazer and scarf.

CHECKS

STRIPS

Now horizontal,vertical,dart,thin and colorful

strips along with black & white has come a

revolution in fashion technology.

Tribal art

•Line: straight lines

•Shapes: triangles and

diamonds

•Colors: Black color is

used and white

background to balance

bright.

•Line: straight lines and

curved lines

•Shapes: geometric shapes

are used to symbolize human

figures.

•Colors: warm colors

Tribal people used to wear colorful accessories to show themselves attractive . The use of lots of bright colors and color combinations As the mostly use straight lines and geometric shapes in Their compositions.

Tribal people has many different kind of motifs They use those motifs in their fabric prints, accessories, tattoos ,etc.

Poorti Khorwal

Design

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