Pools Level 1 Manual Web viewMeasure diagonals for sides A-D and sides B-C. If side A-D do not equal...

OVERVIEW

This manual explains the construction, operation, and maintenance of NWT Above Ground Pools. While the recommended procedures in this manual are aimed at the standardization of pool construction, operation, and maintenance, it must be recognized that each pool will have its own individualized characteristics. As the installer and maintainer, you will have to work with these differences to the best of your ability to assist in providing the best aquatic program possible in your community.

Recreation Facility Operators (RFOs) who provide the many administrative and operational duties required at the above ground pools have a tremendous responsibility to the community. RFOs must provide the community with a pool that is safe, well maintained, and operating efficiently.

RFOs, aquatic staff, and community volunteers are encouraged to read and use this manual to obtain information on the construction, operation, and maintenance of above ground pools.

UPDATES

This manual is designed to accommodate future updates and revisions. Please forward any comments or suggestions on this manual to the following address below so we may continue to provide you with the best and most up-to-date material.

Sport and Recreation Division Municipal and Community Affairs Government of the Northwest TerritoriesBox 1320, Yellowknife, NT, X1A 2L9

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OUTCOME

RFOs and other persons who take this program will know how to construct and operate an above ground swimming pool and know how to operate and maintain a pool in the areas of heating, water circulation, filtration, chemical and water balancing.

CONTENT

This course covers the basic principles and procedures for maintaining pools so that they are clean, properly heated, safe, and chemically balanced. A background in math foundations and basic chemistry is needed for this course.

Level One covers swimming pool operations including water circulation and filtration, basic chlorine chemistry and water balance. The site preparation and construction of above ground pools is covered as well as the cleaning and winterizing procedures for pools.

Water balance is supported by sections on chlorine chemistry, ph, sanitation, and testing procedures. Chemical feeders are described as well as pumps and specialized filter systems.

TOPICS The topics covered are:

Calculating Pool Areas and Volumes Above Ground Pool Construction Pool Operation and Maintenance Pool Chemistry Chlorine Chemistry Alkalinity and Acidity ( ph) Circulation and Filtration Water Balance Boilers and Heaters Feeders and Vacuums Water Test Kits, and Chemical Handling.

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COPYRIGHT

This resource is creative and intellectual property of the School of Community Government with all copyrights reserved exclusively to the School of Community Government, Department of Municipal and Community Affairs, Government of the Northwest Territories.

Unauthorized use or any type of reproduction of this property constitutes a violation of Canadian legislation on copyright, is considered theft and punishable by law.

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NOTES

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

UNIT 1) ABOVE GROUND POOL CONSTRUCTION............................................................................1TOPIC 1.1) ABOVE GROUND POOL CHECKLISTS...............................................................................2TOPIC 1.2) SITE PREPARATION AND CONSTRUCTION......................................................................8TOPIC 1.3) FILTER SYSTEM.............................................................................................................26TOPIC 1.4) HEATING SYSTEM........................................................................................................30TOPIC 1.5) AREA AND VOLUME CALCULATIONS............................................................................35

UNIT 2) POOL OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE...........................................................................47TOPIC 2.1) PUMPS AND FILTERS....................................................................................................48TOPIC 2.2) CLEANING AND WINTERIZING......................................................................................54TOPIC 2.3) HEATING......................................................................................................................57TOPIC 2.4) FILTRATION AND CIRCULATION....................................................................................64

UNIT 3) POOL CHEMISTRY............................................................................................................80TOPIC 3.1) WATER BALANCE.........................................................................................................81TOPIC 3.2) CHEMICAL HANDLING..................................................................................................96TOPIC 3.3) CHLORINE...........................................................................................................................98

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UNIT 1) ABOVE GROUND POOL CONSTRUCTION

Unit Overview

Recreation Facility Operators will understand: how to set up outdoor and above ground pools site preparation and construction heating, circulation, and filtration systems of a pool, and how to calculate the capacity (i.e. volume and area) of a pool.

Unit Goals and Objectives

Recreation Facility Operators will:

1) Be able to use checklists to start up pools. 2) Be able to prepare a site and construct an above ground pool. 3) Be able to inspect and maintain a variety of filtration systems. 4) Be able to inspect and maintain a variety of pumps and pumping

systems. 5) Be able to inspect and maintain a variety of water heating systems. 6) Apply formulas for surface area and volume to simple shapes. 7) Apply formulas for surface area and volume to pools with complex

shapes. 8) Apply formulas for surface area to various kinds of filters.

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TOPIC 1.1)ABOVE GROUND POOL CHECKLISTS As with any construction, it is necessary to have a complete checklist of all parts required for the construction of your above ground pool. Completing a checklist will not only save you time but will save your community money as well.

Why? Because everything will be there and you won't have to stop for a day or a week waiting for a missing item. You can also use the checklist year after year to chart maintenance and repairs as well.

Complete your checklists before you construct your pool for the first time, and update it each year.


ABOVE GROUND POOL CONSTRUCTION CHECKLIST

General Information

Name__________________________________________________________________________

Year First Installed_______________________________________________________________

Year Inspected__________________________________________________________________

A) Pool DescriptionLiner TypeColour PatternBead-Type Type Of CornerCondition Poor Good ExcellentB) Pool PumpMake Model Serial NumberRepairs What When How

C) FilterMake Model Serial Number Year Installed Year Sand ReplacedCondition Poor Good ExcellentRepairs What When How

D) Boiler/Heater Make Model Serial Number


Year Burner Was ServicedSafety DevicesYear Boiler’s Branch CertifiedRepairs What When How

E) Pool PanelsMaterialSize & Type Inlets, SkimmersYear Any Were Replaced Panels Left Up Or DismantledCondition Poor Good ExcellentF) Pool BlanketSize Year ReplacedCondition Poor Good ExcellentG) Blanket RollerWall Or Deck MountNumber Of SheetsYear ReplacedCondition Poor Good ExcellentH) StyrofoamType Number Of Sheets Year ReplacedCondition Poor Good ExcellentI. Piping 1 1/2'' Carlon 1 1/2'' 90 Elles 1 1/2'' Mip


J. A-FramesNumber A-Frame Shoes Condition Poor Good ExcellentK. Strapping Number And Length Of ShortNumber And Length Of LongYear Straps ReplacedNumber Of Strapping ShoesNumber Of 5/16'' X 1 Elevator Shoes Number Of 1/4'' X 1 Stove BoltsL. Inlet Fittings Type Number Year Gaskets ReplacedEyeball Type (In Place)Condition Poor Good ExcellentM. Skimmers Type Number Year Gaskets ReplacedScreenCondition Poor Good ExcellentN. Equalizers Type Number Year Gaskets ReplacedCondition Poor Good Excellent


CHEMICAL CHECKLIST

CHEMICALS AMOUNT May 1 October 1

Granular Chlorine

Pool Shock

Stabilizer

pH Up

pH Down

Algaecide

Formula 500

C-Clear

Metasol

Oxy-Out

TnL

Cal Plus

Alka Plus

Test Kit


EXTRA MATERIALS/EQUIPMENT\ CHECKLIST

EXTRA MATERIALS/EQUIPMENT NEW OR USABLE CONDITION ONLY

May 1 October 1

Skimmer Gaskets Inlet Gaskets Inlet eyeballs Equalizer Gaskets Equalizer Screens Masking Tape 2" Teflon Tape 1/2" Pipe Stick 2 oz. Filter Sand Pressure Gauges Thermometer Patch Kit c/w Glue Vacuum Probe Vacuum Head Vacuum Hose (length) Leaf Net Reaching Pole Life Hook Ring Buoy with rope Spinal Board Fire Extinguisher First Aid Kit


TOPIC 1.2)SITE PREPARATION AND CONSTRUCTION

As with any project, proper completion can only be achieved with proper planning from the ground up. Site preparation done carefully and accurately will solve many problems during the operating season.

1.2.1) LOCATION OF ABOVE GROUND POOLS

Above ground pools must only be built on hard, level and well-drained areas. Areas subject to settling or high ground water levels must be avoided. Discuss with your Senior Administration Officer (SAO), Recreation Leader, or Recreation Development Officer if you feel the pool is not located in the proper area.

The best floor/ground on which to build your pool is a structurally sound concrete pad. This makes your construction much faster as well as eliminates the ground under your pool from becoming saturated with water and your pool sinking into the ground. If a concrete pad is not available, you can also build your pool on a well-packed level gravel base.

REMEMBER: Your pool site must be 10' feet larger in both dimensions than the pool you are going to build. For example, a pool 22' x 44' will require a pool site of 32' x 54'. Check the elevations of your pool site with a builder's level.

While the base must be hard, even more important it must be level. Water is always level, so if you build your pool on uneven ground you will have deep and shallow areas in your pool and it will not operate properly. The ground for the pool must be within 1/2'' of level.

For those sites where the pool base is not level there are two possible solutions: 1. Filling in with sand or fine gravel2. Frame the site and fill-in sand or fine gravel


1) FILLING IN Filling in is best when the floor is very close to level (within one inch). In this case sand or fine gravel is "filled into" the low spots of the pool site. The sand or fine gravel is added and levelled by rakes or long boards until all parts of the base are within one-half inch of each other.

2) FRAME AND FILL-IN This method is ideal for pools where the floors are more than one inch out of level and where possible settling could occur. It is also best to use this method in locations where the pool is to remain standing year round.

The wooden frame is to be the same size as the pool and filled in with sand or fine gravel:

the frame is built with six inch wide (2'' x 6") pieces of lumber laid on the ground to form a box frame

the inside dimension of the frame is to be the same size as the finished pool

as the pool will sit on this frame, it is very important this frame be square, true, and level.


1.2.1) FRAME AND FILL LAY OUT

1) Mark the first corner A (use a nail or pin unless you are working on a concrete pad

2) Layout side A-B.

3) Layout side A-C.

4) Square the angle at A. a) Measure AX = 6' -0 . b) Measure AY = 8' -0. c) XY should be 10' -0. If it isn't,

move AB so that XY does equal 10'0.

5) Lay out side B-D.

6) Square corner B (follow the same procedure as in Step 1 d).

7) Lay out side C-D.

8) If C-D is more than 1/2'' different from A-B, check A and B for square and adjust until CD = AB.

9) Measure diagonals for sides A-D and sides B-C.

10) If side A-D do not equal side B-C (more than 1/2'' difference), move C and D in the direction that will make the two diagonals the same.


1.2.2) INSTRUCTIONS FOR BUILDING A FRAME

1) Set out batter boards (refer to the diagram in Step 1).

2) Set out strings so that they intersect at A,B,C and D.

3) Level the strings using a long carpenter's level or a builder's level .

4) Build the frame and level.

5) Add sand or fine gravel and compact.

The top of the string line can be at the elevation of the top of the frame, or it can be a specific distance above. Use 6 x 6 timbers. Start at the lowest corner and work up. Keep each timber level. The inside of the frame should be the same as the pools inside dimension.


1.2.3) STRAPPING

Straps hold the pool together. There are two different lengths, one for the width, and one for the length. Most of the strapping should come with a 1 1/2'' angle iron “strapping shoe” fastened to each end. These shoes are fastened to the strapping with 2 – 5/16" x 1' plated elevator bolts complete with nuts and lock washers.

Procedure 1) Uncoil the pre-cut lengths of 2'' wide steel strapping.

a) Remember the strapping is like a spring and will uncoil quickly if you let it go. Be careful.

2) Check to make sure the nuts and bolts which fasten the shoes to the strapping are tight.

3) Check the strapping for signs of wear or deterioration.a) Replace any straps that have pinholes or rust marks.

4) Run a rag with oil over the straps. a) Do this in the spring and the fall. This will keep the moisture from rusting

your straps.

5) Lay out the long straps with the strapping shoes pointing up.

6) Weave the short straps (over and under) into the long straps. a) Weave them at the end and then with one person holding each end of the

strap carry it down the side of the pool to its location.


1.2.4) WALL PANELS

The walls of the pool are made of steel or aluminium panels. If they are damaged, the strength of the pool tank is reduced. These panels must also be assembled in the correct order; if they are not, the pool wall will be weak.

Carefully check the panels each spring and fall. Repair what you can – dents, scratches, rust spots, or holes, and bent struts. Replace bent or twisted panels. If you must re-weld a panel, get a qualified welder to do it. Make sure the welder only uses a silicon bronze welding rod. Any other welding material will rust out in the moist pool atmosphere.

There is a proper order for the pool panels. Why? First so you get the correct pool length and width, and second, to make sure the holes in the liner match the holes in the panels. The best way to do this is to number the panels and to have a panel layout plan. If you don't have the one that came with the pool, make one. Refer to the illustration which follows to see where the panels, skimmers, and inlet fittings are to be spaced.

Procedure:

1) Layout the panels.a) Face down, and b) Bottom edge along the inside edge of the wooden frame. c) Follow the panel layout plan. (See next page).

2) Bolt panels. a) Each panel joint needs 7-7/16" bolts with two flat washers and one nut, all

plated space bolts no more than five inches apart (may have up to 30 pre-punched holes).

b) Snug nuts up with a wrench.

3) Fasten A-Frames to the pool a) A-Frames are made of 2-plate angle iron. b) They are attached to the wall panels and give stability to the sides of the

pool.c) They are bolted to each panel joint and to the strut at the mid-point of

each panel.


d) No A-Frames are fastened to the corners.

Pool Panel Layout For: Community of ___________ Pool Date: Located: Size 6.6m x 13.2m


1.2.5) WEIGHTING THE POOL

Once the pool tank is built and square, slide two rows of 2" x 6" wooden planks along the lower chord of the A-Frames. These planks should run continuously around the perimeter of the pool. Make sure all plank joints are staggered.

Place one or two barrels onto the planks between each A-Frame except where the skimmers will be mounted. These barrels are then half-filled. If the pool is to be left up permanently in an unheated building, it is better to fill the barrels with sand instead of water. Water should only be used in the barrels if it is possible to drain them for the winter.


1.2.6) ASSEMBLE PIPING

Piping includes the skimmers and equalizers, inlets as well as the piping from the pump, filters, and heaters.

Mounting Skimmers Nearly all pools in the Northwest Territories Above Ground Pool Program have Jacuzzi WWFL Pool Skimmers. Skimmers, as their name implies, are designed to skim or remove a thin layer of water off the surface area of the pool. This layer normally contains bugs, hair, oil, or other floating debris.

All skimmers are mounted on the back side of the pool tank. The skimmers are held in place by four mounting bolts and water is prevented from leaking between the back of the panel wall and the skimmer face by a cork gasket. A face flange and gasket is put on after the liner is installed. It is very important to try all the face flange screws into the skimmer before tightening the mounting screws.


Mounting Inlets/Equalizers All pools in the Northwest Territories Aquatics Program use the Jacuzzi IFD inlet and IFL equalizer. These fittings are identical with the exception of inlets which use a directional eyeball in the centre. The two fittings are interchangeable and therefore are mounted exactly the same way.

These fittings are mounted in a 3 1/4" diameter hole from the inside of the pool. As with skimmers they must be installed before the liner can be put in. The body of the inlet fitting is put through the hole in the wall panel and fastened on the back side using a retainer ring and lock nut. Take care when mounting the inlet so the screw holes in the face plate are plumb and level before you tighten the lock nut.

You must install the face plates and gasket before installing the liner. The fitting passes right through the wall panel and, as no water comes in contact with the wall panel, no rusting or deterioration of the wall panel will occur.


1.2.7) PIPING IN THE PUMP Always refer to the pump manual. If you do not have the manual, contact the pump manufacturer and get one.

Procedure

When connecting pipes to the pump:

1) Locate the pump in a dry, shaded, and well ventilated area. a) Install the pump at or below deck level if

possible. b) If not, choose the lowest possible elevation -

this simplifies priming and adds to the pressure developed by the pump.

2) Prepare a hard, level surface large enough to accommodate the pump and associated equipment. a) Consider the following factors when choosing a location:

i) drainage of the filter room or pit;ii) ventilation of the motor; iii) access for servicing and winterizing the equipment; and \iv) protection of the equipment from the elements.

3) Make sure your pump can be installed outdoors if your site is outdoors. a) Refer to your pump's manual.

4) Arrange your piping as follows: a) Suction pipe must be at least as large as the pump connection. b) Install a straight piece of pipe to the pump. No elbow at the pump.c) Keep as much of the suction pipe as possible below the water level of the

pool. This will reduce the priming time.

5) Arrange the pipe to rise continuously toward the pump. a) This simplifies priming and adds to the pressure developed by the pump.


6) Support the pipes so that they place no weight on the pump.

7) Install gate valve and unions in the pump suction and pool return


1.2.8) ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS

Use a QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN for the following:

1) Ensure the wiring installation is made in accordance with the Canadian Electrical Code and any other local code.

2) Install a fused disconnect switch on a circuit breaker.

3) Regarding further protection: a) A single-phase motor has a built-in thermal overload protection. b) A three-phase motor requires a starter switch or magnetic starter and

correctly sized overload heaters, in addition to the fused disconnect switch or circuit breaker.

4) Check the rotation before filling the pump with water. a) Check to ensure the pump is not filled with water. b) Remove the bearing cap from the motor to expose the end of the shaft. c) Switch on the power for an instant. d) Check to make sure the shaft rotates in the direction of the arrow on the

pump. If it doesn't, reverse the electrical leader. e) Replace the bearing cap. f) Fill the pump with water.


1.2.9) INSTALL THE LINER

Before you install your liner, you must prepare the tank by smoothing offthe interior walls, sanding rough spots, and painting. Next you layout the Styrofoam base and the last step is to install the liner.

1) Prepare the Tank - the following procedure must be followed whether using a new or used liner. a) Assemble the tank and ensure all fittings have been mounted properly.b) Fill and sand any gouges, scrapes, or rough spots on the inside of the

pool walls.c) Remove old or loose tape along the panel joints.d) Paint any bare metal using rust-proof paint.

2) Lay Styrofoam base. a) Check pool dimensions and plan how you lay will lay out the sheets of

Styrofoam so that you will have to cut as few sheets as possible. b) Lay the sheets on the sand floor over the strapping.

i) Be careful if the sheets are wet; they can break easily. ii) There must be no gaps between the sheets and the wall.

c) Fill in any gaps greater than 1/4" wide. i) Cut pieces to fit from spare foam. ii) DO NOT WALK ON THE FOAM as you can dent the foam. If you have to

stand on the foam, place a board on the foam and walk on the board. d) Fill in any holes with foam. e) Tape the joints. Use one layer of 2 inch wide masking tape. f) Tape wall panel joints. Use two layers of 2 inch masking tape. g) Tape the seam between the extension and wall panels. Use one layer of

two inch masking tape. h) Sweep the floor and remove all debris. Use a soft push broom. i) Check for small cracks and fill in any other dents, cracks, etc.

i) Remember that the pool will be as smooth as the Styrofoam floor. Any holes or cracks will show. Cracks or holes will make cleaning more difficult as dirt will gather in these locations.


3) Install the liner. a) The temperature must be above 210C; if it is colder the liner will be too

cold to work with. If this is not possible, put the liner in a warm space for 24 hours.

b) Place the liner storage crate on the Styrofoam floor. i) The liner weighs between 300 and 450 pounds. You will need three to

four people to lift it as the liner must not be dragged; it must be lifted. c) Remove the Iiner and unfold.

i) The holes for the skimmers and outlets must line up. d) Inspect the bottom and sides of the liner for holes and patch if necessary. e) Find the corners of the liner and install into the extrusion.

i) For new liners, install all corners first, then the sides. ii) If using a used liner, install face flanges for the skimmers and inlets

first, then install the corners. f) Do not stretch the liner.

i) If it is cold and the liner doesn’t fit between the fittings and the corners, heat the liner; the liner will expand and fit.

e) Make sure the liner fits square without wrinkles. f) Attach inlet and skimmer fittings. Remember to install the face flange and

gasket. g) Remove wrinkles. Pour a few inches of water in and work the wrinkles

from the center to the edges and the corners. g) The wall seam must be as the base of the wall before you put water in the

pool. h) It may be necessary to wait until the liner is warmer, or to build the pool

bottom up, or both. h) Fill the pool to the middle of the skimmer openings.

i) The bottom corner seam must be in position and all the wrinkles out. i) Fill the pool to 18''.

i) Fill the water barrels on the A-frames.ii) Check the bolts on the panels, A-frames, and strapping and tighten as

necessary.j) Complete filling the pool.


TOPIC 1.3)FILTER SYSTEMMost pools have a sand filter system which strains out dirt, organic material, and other solid substances.

The oil filter in your car does the same job, filtering out dirt and other harmful substances. When the oil filter is dirty, you replace it with a new one. When the sand in your pool filter gets dirty you don't replace it, you backwash it. When you backwash you force water at a high pressure up through the filter and out into the waste pit. The dirt is carried out with the backwash water and the sand is clean again.

1.3.1) DESCRIPTION OF A FILTER SYSTEM

The filter system is assembled at the site from a filter module and a pump module. This arrangement permits a choice of pump for each size of tank to suit alternative flow rates of 15 and 20 US gallons per minutes per square foot of filter area (equal to water velocities of 0.0100 m/s and 0.0133 m/s).

The six position dial valve on top of the tank works as follows:

1) Filter The filter gives a downward flow through the filter bed. Dirt accumulates in the sand as filtering proceeds, and gradually restricts the flow of water until backwashing is necessary.

The pressure gauges tell the condition of the filter bed. The upper one shows the pressure from the pump; the lower the pressure at the outlet of the filter. The difference between the two is the pressure through the filter. Backwashing is necessary when the difference is 10 psi (70 kPa) or more.

2) Backwash The backwash gives an upward flow through the filter bed that removes the dirt from the sand and carries it to the waste pit.

3) Rinse The rinse gives a downward flow that settles the filter bed after backwashing


and carries any remaining loose dirt to the waste pit. 4) Drain The drain is for pumping water from the pool. It allows the flow from the pump to by-pass the filter and go directly to the waste pit.

5) Whirlpool The whirlpool by-passes the filter to obtain the optimum performance from hydro-air fittings fed by the filter pump.

6) Test The test setting prevents any discharge from the pump, which then generates its maximum pressure. The reading of the upper pressure gauge is a guide to the condition of the pump. Do not leave the valve at TEST for more than ONE MINUTE.


1.3.2) INSTALL FILTER UNIT

Set up your filter unit on a hard, level surface close to the pool. It should be in a dry, shaded, and well-ventilated area. The pump motor is not weatherproof. Make sure there is sufficient room so you can maintain the suction, discharge, and waste connections. You must also ensure that the pit into which the backwash water is placed will drain properly at all times.

Procedure: 1) Place the filter tank and pump in position and join their bases with the

connector provided. Refer to Operating Manual. a) Ensure that the suction, discharge, and waste connections align with the

plumbing.

2) Place the protective cover over the tank opening. This will prevent the sand from getting into the standpipe and flange holes.

3) Pour sand into the tank. Refer to the Operating Manual to determine the amount.

4) Remove the protective cover and clean the surface of the tank flange.

5) Place the ring gasket for the dial valve in its groove on the tank flange, put on dial valve and bolt into place. a) Its underside must register with the standpipe. b) Maximum torque is 10 foot pounds or 135 Nm.

6) Connect or screw the adaptor into the pump discharge.

7) Connect the hose between the dial valve and the pump.

8) Screw pressure gauges into the tappings on the dial valve. a) Hand tighten only. b) Check after to ensure it does not leak. If it does, tighten more. c) The system is now ready for connecting to the pool.


9) Connect the piping together with the following valves: a) Gate valve in suction line. This will make maintenance easier. b) Gate valve in discharge line. This will make maintenance easier. c) Check valve in the suction line. This is essential if the total suction lift

exceeds 5 feet.


TOPIC 1.4)HEATING SYSTEM The heater and the accompanying oil burner must be installed in accordance with local and national regulations. Specifically the CSA., B-139 Code For The Installation of Oil Burning Equipment MUST be followed. You must have an Oil Burner Mechanic to supervise the installation of your unit.

The specific unit you purchase will have an operating manual that contains instructions on how to set up the beater, oil burner, and the controls. Follow those instructions. If you do not you may void the warranty.

The heater is made of steel plate, galvanized inside and out. The flue box is located on top of the heater to permit easy cleaning of the flue box and the flue slots.

The combustion chamber is a pre-formed, high flame temperature "ceramic fibre" chamber. The flue baffles are made of stainless steel.

PH-600 POOL HEATER PARTS LIST Galvanized Heat Exchanger Plastic Disc Complete set of baffles (4) Drain valve Flue-hood Aqua stat and Well, l1B-54-5

Combustion Chamber Oil Burner Gasket Door Assembly Packing Nut Assembly, 55-00-88 Complete Casing


1.4.1) SETTING UP THE HEATER AND OIL BURNER

Procedure 1) Install the pool heater on a concrete or gravel floor or pad.

2) Maintain the following minimum clearances.

PH 600 PH-l2OO Front 24'' 24'' Left-hand side 18'' 18'' Right-hand side 6'' 6'' Rear 6'' 6'' Above 18'' 18'' Flue pipe vertical 9'' 18'' Flue pipe horizontal 9'' 18''

3) Mount the oil burner and control. a) Control is a combination pool temperature control with remote sensing

element and high limit control.

4) Install bypass piping and valve. a) All piping should be plastic or galvanized pipe. b) During normal operation it will be closed so there is a full flow of pool

water through the heater. This fuel flow keeps the boiler (heater) cleaner, does not allow high temperatures to occur, and prolongs the life of the galvanizing.

Only open the valve when the heater must be serviced or removed.

5) Connect the heater to a chimney or install draft inducer fan in the flue. a) The chimney must be of adequate size to provide the necessary draft. b) Flue pipes should be at least the diameter of the flue collar.

6) Install the pressure relief valve. a) The nozzle must point down. Valves are preset at 30 p.s.i.


7) Mount the draft regulator between the heater and the chimney.

8) Ensure that sufficient combustion air is available. a) If the heater is in a small enclosed area provide two openings, top and

bottom of the shed, each 1 square inch per 1000 BTUH input. b) Therefore a 60,000 BTUH heater would require two 60 square inch

openings. A 120,000 BTUH heater would require two 120 square inch openings.

9) Connect unit to the oil tank - install according to CSA B-139 Code. a) Install oil tank. b) Connect in order from oil tank to heater:

i) Copper tubing to tee at tank. Use 1/2" or 3/8” Valve ii) Oil filter iii) Copper tubing to heater


1.4.2) TOPIC SUMMARY

There are many things that can go wrong when assembling an above ground pool. You could forget some parts, or the parts you have don’t fit, or the pool leaks, or the water is dirty. These problems can all be avoided if you follow the directions in this chapter.

To properly assemble an above ground pool you must:1) Start with an accurate and complete checklist of all parts required.

2) You must keep a sufficient quantity of pool chemicals, materials and equipment on hand.

3) The pool site must be assembled properly.

4) Follow plumbing procedures. Refer to the plumbing manual for the procedures and tools. a) When assembling the pool panels, make sure that the pool corners are

square or at 90 degrees. b) Follow the layout diagram so that holes in the liner match the holes in the

panels.

5) Piping must be assembled properly. a) Follow plumbing procedures. b) Refer to the plumbing manual for the procedures and tools.

6) Skimmers, inlets, and equalizers must be mounted so that the joints between them and the liner is water tight.

7) Make sure that the piping between the pump, filter, and boiler does not leak, and that the proper circulation pattern is achieved. a) When working with the boiler, use a Plumber or Oil Burner Mechanic.

8) Only use an Electrician to connect the electrical motor to the power source.

9) When installing the liner, make sure it is wrinkle free, and that there are no leaks.


TOPIC 1.5)AREA AND VOLUME CALCULATIONS RFOs should be familiar with basic mathematics that will assure the proper operation of their facility. These calculations need be performed only once, since pool volume, filter area, swimmer capacity and chemical additions should be recorded on site. However, a new RFO should re-check calculations.

1.5.1) CALCULATING SURFACE AREA

Calculating a swimming pool's area in square metres is the first step in determining data such as pool volume and maximum bather loads. By calculating the surface area, an operator can determine the maximum bather load.

A simple method for calculating pool size is through the use of geometric formulas. Following are some basic formulas used to determine surface area.

A = AreaB = Base L = Length W = Width H = Height

Formula 1 - Area of a Square or RectangleThe formula is A = L x W

Example The length of the square is 3 metres (3m).The width of the square is 3 metres (3m)

A = 3m x 3m A = 9 sq. metres or 9 m2


Formula 2 - Area of a Right Angle Triangle The Formula is A = B x H

2

ExampleThe base is 6 metres (6m).The height is 3 metres (3m).

A = 6m x 3m 2

A = 18m 2

A = 9m²

Formula 3 - Area of a Circle A = r2

A = 3.14 x r2

A = 3.14 x 25m²A = 78.5m²


1.5.2) SURFACE AREA OF A MULTI-SIDED POOL

The following examples use the basic geometric formulae previously presented.

Example 1 Divide the pool into rectangles. Calculate and total Areas A, B, C. Area A= 5m x 3m = 15m2

Area B = 20m x 25m = 500m2

Area C =7m x 10m = 70m2

TOTAL AREA = 585m2

NOTE: Dividing the pool into individual areas is useful later when adding depth to the formula.

Example 2 Divide the pool into a rectangle and triangle. Calculate and total Areas A and B.

Area A = 25 x 3 = 37.5m²

2

Area B = 25 x 12 = 300m²

TOTAL = 337.5m²

Note: In this example, the area of the triangle (A) must be calculated as a right angle assuming the rectangular area is squared.


1.5.3) SURFACE AREA OF CIRCULAR POOLS

Example 3 Given: a 16 meter diameter circular pool. Area = 8 x 8 x 3.14 = 200.96m2

Example 4 Combine two previously learned calculations. Area A= 20x 20 = 400m

10 x 10 = Area B 2 TOTAL = 557m2

Note: The second half of the circle (illustrated in dashes) is inside area B. This half-circle is not included in calculations but merely shown for clarification of the circle area calculations.

These formulas for squares, rectangles, triangles and circles are the basis for all these geometric calculations, whether used individually or in combination, to determine total surface area.


1.5.4) CALCULATING POOL CAPACITY

Calculations: By using depth or height of the pool, an operator can determine the amount of water in the basin, the volume in cubic metres (m3) must be multiplied by 1000 as there are exactly 1000 litres in one cubic metre. For the purposes of this document all calculations are in metric.


Example 2 Variable depth pool. Volume = L x W x D1 + D2 x 1000 2

25m x 13m x 2 x = 650 x1000 = 650,000 litres

* NOTE: Since the slope is constant from 1 to 3 metres, an average of the two numbers is used.

Example 3 Circular pool.

Volume = Depth X Pi r2

Volume = 1 x3.14 x5x5 =78.5 L3


1.5.5) CALCULATING FILTER SURFACE AREA

Filter surface area is used to determine filtering capacity and efficiency. Diatomite filters come in a variety of shapes and sizes whereas sand beds area normally circular. For leaf-type and circular diatomite filters, operators must remember to include both sides of the filter element.

The following examples demonstrate the steps necessary to calculate filter surface area:

Example 1 Given: 36 elements, 2 metres in width by 1.5 metres in length.

Formula: Area = L x W A = 2 x 1.5 = 3m2

Given there are two sides to the element the total area of each filter is 6m2

36 elements x 6m = 216m2

Example 2 - Diatomite Circular Elements.

Given: 20 circular elements, 1.0m in diameter. Header pipe of 20cmFormula: Surface area = A = 3.14 x O.5 x O.5Header pipe = 3.14 x .010 x.010 = 0.0314A = .785m2 x 2 = 1.57 - .0314 = 1.5386 m2 x 20 elements = 30.772 m 2 of surface area

*Note, the diameter of the header pipe must be taken away from the total surface area of each element.


Example 3 - Sand Filters.

Given: Three circular filter tanks, 2m in diameter by 1.5m in depth. (In sand filters of any type only the top of the sand surface area is calculated as filter surface area).

Formula: Surface area = 7t r2 A = 3.14 x 1m x 1m A = 3.14m2 (for one tank) A = 3.14m2 x 3 tanks = 9.42m 2 filter surface area

Example 4 - Cartridge filters. Because it is pleated, the surface area of a cartridge filter is somewhat more complicated to calculate; however, its size can be determined by laying flat a wet membrane (cartridge) and measuring its surface area. Most manufacturers specify the surface area of their product, but if not, this method can be used.


1.5.6) IN CLASS PROBLEMS

1) Calculate the surface area of the following:


2) Calculate the volume of the following pools:


3) Calculate filter surface:

a) Given 22 leaf filters each measuring 1.5m x 1m, how many square metres of surface area are there?

b) Given 4 circular filter tanks, each 1.8m in diameter containing 1 metre of sand, how many square metres of surface area are there?

c) What is the filter area of 16 circular filters, each 80 centimetres in diameter with a 10 centimetre manifold hole in the centre of the filter?


UNIT 2) POOL OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE

Pool operation and maintenance includes pumps, filters, heating, and air quality control. This unit covers the basic principles that will allow an operator to service and maintain above ground pools.

Pool operations require attention to the exchange of water and air that meets standards for safety and purity. The maintenance of pumps and filters requires knowledge of pressure, head, flow rates, and turnover rates.

Three common circulation problems and their solution are discussed in this unit:1) inadequate flow2) dead spots and 3) poor skimming action.

Sand filtration is a traditional and effective way to maintain pool water purity. Rates of flow, types of filter beds, and backwash cycles are described in this unit to give RFOs an overview of sand filtration principles and maintenance procedures.

Strategies that will improve air quality in a pool are also reviewed and include regular maintenance of fans and ducts. Later units apply the material covered in this unit to specific filtration and circulation situations involving sand and diatomaceous earth. GOALS AND OBJECTIVES

1) Be able to inspect and service pumps. 2) Be able to inspect and service filters. 3) Understand how sand filtration removes impurities. 4) Learn how to inspect and clean sand filters and beds. 5) Be able to clean and winterize a pool. 6) Be able to inspect and maintain a pool heating system. 7) Understand the elements of circulation, filtration, and air quality

systems. 8) Calculate pressure and head in pumps. 9) Understand how to evaluate and maintain filters.


10) Calculate turnover rates and flow rates. 11) Understand the characteristics of basic heating, ventilating, and air

conditioning (HVAC) systems. 12) Identify strategies that improve air quality in pools.

TOPIC 2.1)PUMPS AND FILTERS

2.1.1) OPERATE AND MAINTAIN PUMP

The pump is the heart of a pool system. Just as your heart pumps 24 hours per day, so does the pool's heart or pump. And just as when your heart stops, you shut down, so too will the pool when the pump stops.

There are four models of pumps in use in the Northwest Territories. All are made by Jacum, however, some are discontinued.

VLSC Cast Iron Case Pump 1m PK-S Plastic PK-B Plastic 10 Hex WaSIW ~ IS x H/4°L 2

Magnum Plastic Case Pump


2.1.2) PUMP OPERATION SEPARATE FROM FILTER

1) Close the gate valves in the suction and discharge lines.

2) Remove the strainer cover from the hair and lint strainer.

3) Fill the pump completely with water.

4) Replace the cover.

5) Open gate valve in the suction and return lines.

6) Start the pump and check for leaks and correct.

Never run the pump without water. Do not over tighten the strainer; hand tighten only. Do not operate the pump with closed suction or discharge lines. If the pump fails to produce a full head of water within 4 minutes, switch it off and repeat steps 1 - 6.

If the pump still fails to produce a full head of water, check for leaks at the strainer cover, suction line connections and valve stem glands. Tighten as required.

Check the discharge fittings for air bubbles.Do not tighten strainer during operation.


Pump Failure Chart

SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSES

Motor does not start Disconnect switch or circuit breaker in OFF positionFuses blown or thermal overload openLocked motor shaftDefective starting switch inside single-phase motorMotor windings burned outDisconnected or defective wiring

Motor does not reach full speed

Low voltage Motor windings connected for wrong voltage

Motor overheats (protector trips)

Low voltage Motor windings connected for wrong voltage Inadequate ventilation

Pump delivers no water

Pump not primed Closed valve in suction or discharge line Leakage of air into suction system Impeller plugged

Low pump capacity Valve in suction or discharge line partly closed Suction or discharge line partly plugged Suction or discharge line too small Pump running at reduced speed (see above) Wrong rotation (three phase models only) Plugged basket in skimmer of hair and lint strainerDirty filter Impeller plugged

Noisy pump and motor

Plugged basket in skimmer or hair and lint strainerDefective motor bearings Valve in suction line partly closed Suction line partly plugged


SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSES

Leakage of water at shaft

Shaft seal requires replacement

Air bubbles at inlet fittings

Leakage of air into suction line at connections or valve stemCover of hair and lint strainer not airtight Restriction in suction line Low water level in pool

REMEMBER: If the recommendations in the troubleshooting portion of this manual do not solve your particular problem(s), please contact your local Jacum dealer for service, Territorial Aquatic Supervisor, or Facility Development Manager 867 (920-3109).


2.1.3) OPERATE AND MAINTAIN FILTERS

The filter system is essential if you are to operate a clean pool. If you have installed it properly it should operate with no problems for the season.

Operate Filter and Pump The pool must be filled with water.

1) Close gate valve in the pump suction and this pump start-up procedure is for pumps discharge lines connected to the filter.

2) Set dial valve to winterize.

3) Remove strainer cover from the hair and lint strainer.

4) Fill the pump completely with water. a) Never operate the pump without water in the pump case. Lack or water

can damage the shaft side.

5) Replace the cover.

6) Set dial valve to filter.

7) Start the pump. a) The pump should deliver a strong stream of water as soon as it has

removed the air from the suction system. This should take 2 -3 minutes. If it doesn't deliver the strong stream of water in 3 minutes, repeat steps 1 - 7.

b) If the pump still fails to produce a full head of water, check for leaks at the strainer cover, suction line connections and valve stem glands. Tighten as required.

8) Operate filter with the dial valve set at:a) Drainb) Whirlpoolc) Backwashd) Rinse


Operate for one minute each in the order given. 9) Set valve at filter.

a) Operate for 10 minutes b) Check pool return fitting for air bubbles. A continuous flow of air indicates

a leak in the suction system. c) Correct leak. Correct immediately by tightening the strainer cover, suction

line connections, or valve stem glands.

10) With valve set at filter, stop the pump.

11) Clean out hair and lint strainer. a) Remove cover b) Lift out basket and empty c) Replace cover

12) Adjust downstream gate valves to maintain the correct filter rate. The filter performs best at its rated capacity. This can be checked by: a) Flow meter in the pool discharge line b) Maintain an 8 - 10 pound per square

inch (55 - 70 kPa) pressure upstream of the filter when the filter is clean.

13) Backwash: Backwash at least once per week or whenever the pressure gauges of the filter registers a difference of 10 psi.a) Stop pump and clean the hair and lint

strainer.b) Set the dial valve to backwash and

start the pump. c) Backwash for three minutes. d) Rinse for one minute.e) Set the dial valve to filter. Backwash

is complete. Continue normal operation.

14) Drain the pool a) Set dial valve to drain. This position


allows the water to be pumped directly to waste without passing through the filter.

TOPIC 2.2)CLEANING AND WINTERIZING

2.2.1) VACUUM CLEANING

To remove visible sediment for the pool bottom, a vacuum cleaner is used. Generally, vacuuming two or three times a week will suffice, especially if the pool is covered with a pool blanket. However, more frequent vacuuming will be necessary if the bather load is high, windy weather prevails or the water supply contains sediment.

Inspect the pool for sediment and foreign objects every morning before opening the pool and vacuum if necessary. Sediment, if left in the pool, will rise and create turbid water, encourage algae growth and liner discoloration. Metal objects such as bobby pins left on the bottom may cause rust spots while sharp objects may damage the liner.

Procedure To vacuum, follow these directions and refer to the diagram.

1) Assemble the vacuum kit. (Leave it assembled for the season)

2) Remove a skimmer cover and strainer basket.

3) Place the vacuum head and hose in the pool and fill the hose with water by submerging it and holding it in front of the inlet fitting for about 15 seconds.

4) Remove the trimmer valve in the skimmer.

5) Pass the end of the hose through the skimmer mouth and insert the hose into the opening where the trimmer valve usually sits in the skimmer.


6) Close the lines coming from other skimmers or equalizers so that suction from the vacuum skimmer is increased. To close other skimmers remove the plug from the trimmer valve and insert the plug into the valve plate.

7) Pass the vacuum head slowly along the pool bottom, being sure to cover all areas.


2.2.2) WINTERIZE

Procedure: 1) Backwash filter for 30 minutes. This will clean the sand thoroughly.

2) Drain the tank and pump (follow when the system could freeze). a) Remove drain plug and allow water to drain. Plug is located at the base of

the filter. b) If the water won't drain easily, use a screwdriver to dislodge sand blocking

the drain hole or run the pump for a short time to blow-out the obstruction.

3) Set the dial to winterize. This helps the draining process by allowing air to enter the tank.

4) Unscrew pressure gauge from the dial valve. Use a wrench.

5) Remove pump drain plug(s).

6) Take cover off the hair and lint strainer and check that all the water has drained from the pump.

7) Disconnect the pump and motor from filter tank.

8) Send pump or motor out for repairs if required.

Remember: Send to an authorized service representative. Check with your owner's manual or sales representative as to whom it should be sent to.


TOPIC 2.3)HEATING There are three basic types of heating systems for pool water:

1) steam heating boilers 2) hot water boilers 3) hot water heaters

2.3.1) STEAM HEATING BOILERS

Steam heating of pool water is accomplished with a centrally located low pressure heating boiler and heat exchanger(s). The steam generated in the boiler is transferred through piping to the swimming pool heat exchanger. Pool water, in turn, is circulated through the exchanger and the heat from the steam is transferred to the pool water. As the steam gives up its' heat, condensate is formed and flows through the return line to the boiler for reuse.

2.3.2) HOT WATER BOILERS

In its basic design, the hot water heating system is similar to the steam system. Heating of pool water is accomplished with a high-pressure boiler and heat exchanger. The heated water is transferred to the heat exchanger where it gives up its heat to the pool water circulating through the exchanger. The cool boiler water is then returned to the boiler for reheating.

Boilers are equipped with various other control and safety systems. They must be inspected every two years in accordance with the Boilers and Pressure Vessels Act. As well, daily, weekly, monthly and annual inspections and checks by operators should be implemented.


Sample Boiler Checks Daily:

Observe operating pressures and water levels. Check gas flame, all pumps for leaks, motors for overheating. Maintain the boiler room log.

Weekly: Test low water cut off, check water column. Blow down main drain if considerable make up water is added.

Monthly: Test safety relief valve. Chemical testing and treatment.

NOTE: Unless the operator is familiar with pool water heating equipment, any adjustments should be done by a competent maintenance firm orindividual.

2.3.3) HOT WATER HEATERS

Hot water heaters do not make use of exchangers. Swimming pool water is circulated through tubes above the gas burners of the heater. The amount of water that passes through the tubes is controlled by valves on the effluent line of the filter tank. Thermostats controlled by pool water temperatures operate the burners.

Sample Water Heater Checks Daily:

Observe pressures, temperatures and general conditions. Check gas flame, all pumps for leaks, motors for overheating. Maintain the boiler room log.

Weekly: Observe gas flame. Check operation of circulation pumps.

Monthly: Check operation of safety relief valves. Check low water gas cut-off.

NOTE: Unless the operator is familiar with pool water heating equipment, any


adjustments should be done by a competent maintenance firm or individual.

2.3.4) HOT WATER COMPARED TO STEAM

ADVANTAGES 1) Hot water temperature may be varied much more readily than steam

temperature. This allows for variations in load.

2) A hot water boiler is smaller and more compact than a steam boiler of the same output. In addition, pipe sizes are generally smaller in a hot water system.

3) The piping pitch or slope is not critical in a forced circulation hot water system as in a steam system where proper drainage of condensate is important.

4) Maintenance costs are usually less in a hot water system due to the fact traps are not required and there is less corrosion in the piping.

DISADVANTAGES

1) When a hot water system is used in high multistage buildings, the boiler must be designed to withstand high pressure due to the high head of water in the system.

2) In a large hot water system, considerable power is required to circulate the water.

3) There is a greater danger of damage due to freezing in a hot water system.

4) If a leak does occur more damage will result with a hot water system than with a steam system.


2.3.5) OPERATE AND MAINTAIN HEATER

Proper care when operating your heater and regular maintenance will reduce the downtime and increase the life of your system. This section details how to operate and maintain your heating system.

PERFORM INITIAL START, RUN, AND FLAME ADJUSTMENT

Procedure: 1) Ensure heater is connected to the pool filter and that water is circulating.

2) Adjust low limit control.

3) Set draft regulator to full draft.

4) Provide burner with oil: a) Turn oil on at tank. Open valve by oil tank. b) Purge the fuel unit of air. This is required at the initial start for both one

and two pipe systems. c) Open the bleed valve on the side of the fuel unit. d) Allow oil to flow into a container until a solid stream of oil is

obtained.e) Close bleed valve.

5) Adjust air band to half-open position.

6) Check to ensure that the proper fuses are installed in the switch box. Refer to Operating Manual.

7) Open inspection port.

8) Press reset button on combustion safety control.

9) Close line switch. a) Burner should start after a short delay while the fuel unit delivers the oil

to the nozzle. b) If it doesn't start, repeat steps 1 - 9. If it still doesn't start, call an Oil


Burner Mechanic. 10) Do not start the burner when:

a) excess oil has accumulated b) the unit is full of vapour, or c) when the combustion chamber is hot

11) Adjust flame. This should be done by an Oil Burner Mechanic. a) Close inspection port. Wait until the moisture in the combustion chamber

has evaporated. b) Adjust draft regulator to give a -0.02 to -0.04 breaching draft. Use draft

gauge. c) Check smoke intensity. Use smoke tester. d) Adjust air band to produce a #1 smoke spot. The burner is now burning

efficiently. e) Take carbon dioxide analysis in the stack. This checks the combustion

efficiency. CO2 should be between 10% and 12%.

REMOVE AND REPLACE COMBUSTION CHAMBER 1) Disconnect power at the line switch.

2) Shut off the oil supply at the tank.

3) Remove oil line connection to fuel pump. Electrical wiring need not be disconnected.

4) Unscrew bracket holding BX Tubing on front of casing or vestibule.

5) Remove the three brass knots holding the burner flange and gently remove the burner.

6) Remove the six nuts and bolts holding the front door. Remove the front door taking care not to damage the gasket.

7) Remove the combustion chamber. Gently slide the formed chamber out of the unit.

8) Replace the combustion chamber. Make sure the b~ bole is lined up dead centre and at the same height and depth as the original.


Follow inverse order to reassemble.

CLEAN THE HEATER 1) Perform at start-up each season.

2) Disconnect power at the line switch.

3) Shut off the oil supply at the tank.

4) Remove oil line connection to fuel pump. Electrical wiring need not be disconnected.

5) Unscrew bracket holding BX tubing on front of casing or vestibule.

6) Remove the three brass nuts holding the burner flange and gently remove the burner.

7) Remove the six nuts and bolts holding the front door. Remove the front door taking care not to damage the gasket.

8) Remove the combustion chamber. Gently slide the formed chamber out of the unit.

9) Remove casing top and flue-hood.

10) Remove baffles. Flue baffles should be cleaned at least once a year.

11) Clean flue passages with a wire brush. Remove all spots and lime.

To reassemble, follow reverse order.

CHECK OIL BURNING UNIT


Perform at least once per year. 1) Adjust flame. This should be done by an Oil Burner Mechanic.

a) Close inspection port. Wait until the moisture in the combustion chamber has evaporated.

b) Adjust draft regulator to give a -0.02 to -0.04 breaching draft. c) Check smoke intensity. Use smoke tester. d) Adjust air band to produce a #1 smoke spot. The burner is now burning

efficiently. e) Take carbon dioxide analysis in the stack. This checks the combustion

efficiency. CO2 should be between 10% and 12%. REPLACE POOL HEATER 1) Disconnect power at the line switch.

2) Disconnect power line to the aquastat.

3) Drain the boiler through the drain cock and then remove the drain cock.

4) Remove the aquastat and the aquastat well.

2.3.6) TOPIC SUMMARY

The pump is the heart of the pool system. To ensure it runs 24 hours a day, you must operate it properly. For example, you must never run the pump without water, or when the suction or discharge lines are shut off. If you do have pump problems, refer to the troubleshooting guide in this chapter.

The filter keeps the water clean. Normally, the pump pumps the water through the filter and back into the pool. The filter removes dirt and other undesirable particles from the pool water. However, after a while the filter gets clogged up. To remove the filtered material, you must backwash. To do this you reverse the flow of water through the filter and discharge the dirty water into a pail. Any dirt or material that isn't drawn through the filter must be vacuumed up. Do this daily.

The procedure to winterize the pool must be followed to ensure that water does not freeze in the equipment and damage it. Plan your major repairs for the winter.


The heater is usually an oil burner and is used to keep the pool water temperature warm enough to swim in. You operate it like any oil burner. If properly maintained you should have no problem during the swimming season.


TOPIC 2.4)FILTRATION AND CIRCULATION Good water quality is dependent on three factors: physical, chemical and biological. Water clarity is the criteria for the physical factor.

Physical factors involve the physical/mechanical removal of debris from pool water through filtration and circulation. Failure to remove debris causes turbidity or cloudy water.

Chemical factors involve proper water balance to prevent water from becoming corrosive or scale forming. Water that is out of proper chemical balance contributes to deterioration of equipment, bather discomfort and unnecessary chemical usage.

Biological factors contribute to good water quality by making the water safe for the user. It results in the sanitization of bacteria and oxidation of organic matter.

2.4.1) FILTRATION

Filtration is the physical process of forcing water through some type of straining medium (i.e. sand). This straining removes dirt particles and solid matter that would normally interfere with the disinfection process.


Many materials have been used as a straining medium: finely ground glass, coal, volcanic ash, plastic beads, paper, sand or diatomaceous earth.

Turnover is defined as the amount of time required for a given amount of water equivalent to the pool volume to be circulated through the filter system. Turnover is expressed in hours. The Turnover Rate represents the number of times the pool volume is moved through the filters in a 24-hour period.

For example, if a pool has a volume of 500,000 litres and 1,500,000 litres of water are filtered in one day, the "turnover rate" is three. This is frequently expressed as an eight hour "turnover". Similarly, a six-hour turnover would give a "turnover rate" of four.

POOL TURNOVER RATE CHARTTurnover Rate Turnover

Number of times pool volume is displaced by filtered water each 24 hours.

Hours required to filter pool volume.

1 242 123 84 65 4.8

2.4.2) CIRCULATION

Circulation is the common factor for filtration and chemical addition. The purpose of circulation is to distribute filtered, heated and chemically treated water within the closed system of a pool. The water must enter the tank in such a manner as to reach every portion of the pool to ensure proper dilution and inhibit the development of "dead spots" or stagnant areas in the basin.

All pools make use of a circulation pump to move the water by either pulling it through a filter system or pushing it through the system. The typical pool circulation pump is a centrifugal pump.


This type of pump uses centrifugal force to accomplish the pumping action by means of an impeller, or wheel with curved blades. Water enters the centre or eye of the impeller and is discharged by centrifugal force created by the high rotating speed of the impeller. This discharge of water by the pump can be called the rate of flow (flow chart). Pump designs and capacities determine how much water a pump can move in a given period of time (lps -litres per second or gpm -gallons per minute).

FLOW RATE An important factor in determining turnover rate is flow rate. This information is useful in sizing the pump for the swimming pool. The flow rate is determined through the use of a standard formula. For example, if we have a pool with a 900,000-litre volume and we desire a six-hour turnover, what flow rate is required?

Flow Rate = Pool Volume x (60minutes) x (60 seconds)Turnover

Flow Rate = 900,000L x 3600 6


Flow rate = 5.4 lps

This example shows the relationship of turnover and flow rate. It follows that if we know the flow rate for a pool, we can determine the turnover with a similar formula.

If we have a pool with a volume of 630,000 litres and we have a flow rate of 10 lps, what is our turnover?

Turnover = Pool Volume x 60 (minutes) x 60 (seconds) Flow Rate

Turnover = 630,000 x 360010

Turnover = 2.2 hrs are required to turnover the pool capacity one time.

2.4.3) SWIMMING POOL COMPONENTS

OUTLETS An outlet is defined as an apparatus that allows water to move from the pool to the filter system. Water returns to the filters through overflow troughs or skimmer outlets. Some of these systems incorporate strainers to trap large floating debris and must be cleaned periodically to permit efficient return.

The main drain is an effective outlet that ensures debris settling to the bottom is removed. Care should be taken to ensure the bottom drain is never blocked.

Skimmer System


INLETS An inlet is defined as an apparatus that allows water to move from filter system into the pool basin. Adjustable inlets should be directed to ensure that the flow of water through them causes movement throughout the whole pool. The inlets should be adjusted so that no vortexes are present on the water surface. Care should also be taken to prevent "dead spots" or areas of no circulation.

Typical inlets

VALVES A valve is a device to control the flow of water. In swimming pools, ball, gate, butterfly and float valves, are commonly used. Each piece of recirculation equipment should have a valve on both the influent and effluent side to permit isolation of the unit for maintenance.


GAUGES Most circulation systems have gauges on their system. Gauges are used to indicate the status of the various components in a filter system and enable the operator to anticipate when maintenance work must be done. Examples of gauges include flow meters, vacuum, pressure and temperature gauges. Vacuum gauges measure in inches of mercury. They are located on the suction side of the pump.

Pressure gauges measure in pounds per square inch or inches of mercury on a Bourden Tube. They are located on the discharge side of the pump.

Flow meters measure flow utilizing pressure differential across an orifice plate and translate this to a direct reading of litres per second. It is important to keep the passageways clear. Flow meters should be located after the filter tank and at least 3 metres away from any bends or elbows in piping.

All gauges should be checked and recalibrated annually.


HAIR AND LINT STRAINERS In pressure type filtration systems, hair and lint strainer baskets are located before the pump to protect the impeller from damage. Objects, such as hair, hair pins, rubber bands, band aids and rubber straps are large enough to cause harm both to the pump and to the motor if they are not screened out.

Strainers are usually metal or plastic baskets and are inserted on the suction side of the pump. They are not necessary in vacuum filter systems because the filters have already screened out the debris before the water reaches the pump.

Strainers should be checked daily. Often objects such as bathing caps and plastic bags can slip through the bottom drain and close off water flow to the pump.


QUESTIONS

1) If a pool has a turnover rate of 4.8, how long does it take to accomplish one turnover?

2) Gates and butterflies are examples of ______________________ .

3) A pool has a volume of 750,000 litres that passes through the filter every eight hours. What is the turnover? What is the turnover rate? What is the flow rate?

4) Southside pool has a volume of 2,000,000 litres and has a flow rate of 60 lIs. What is the turnover?

5) East bank pool has a turnover of five hours for its 1,350,000 litre pool. What is the flow rate?

6) The type of pump normally used in swimming pool operations is known as a ___________ pump.

7) Common gauges include:

8) True or false: a) A bottom drain is an example of an inlet. T__ F__

b) Pool circulation pumps use positive displacement to move water. T__F__

c) Chemistry and circulation are the primary factors in filtration. T__ F__

d) Pressure gauges are normally found on influent and effluent lines of the pump. T__ F__

e) Hair and lint strainers are not required on pressure filtration systems. T__F__

f) Turnover rate and flow rate are used in determining pool volume. T__


F__

g) Circulation systems should be shut down at night when the pool is not in use. T__ F__

h) A flow meter should be installed on or as close to an elbow in the piping system as possible. T__ F__


2.4.4) SAND FILTRATION

Sand as a filter media probably predates written history. Sand filtration methods have been used effectively as far back as the Roman occupation in England. Sand was recognized as a natural filter media and was used as a means of removing impurities from water.

Of the commonly used swimming pool filter systems, the sand system is easiest to understand. Soil is captured in the filter bed and as the sand stores up more and more dirt and becomes increasingly dense, it becomes more resistant to water flow. Ultimately, inadequate flow can no longer be sustained and the filter bed must be cleaned by backwashing the sand.

There are three types of sand filters: a) gravity sand filtersb) conventional or rapid sand filters, and c) high rate sand filters.

The gravity sand filter for swimming pool use is all but unheard of today. This type is more often seen in the filter systems for municipal water treatment plants. By far, the majority of the sand filters installed today are the pressure type, to which this chapter will be generally limited.

Conventional or rapid sand filters, which were the standard equipment for all swimming pools prior to World War II, have been used for several decades and are still being used on many commercial pool installations.

Up to 25 years ago, rapid sand filters were designed and operated at flow rates of approximately 2 litres per second (I/s) per square metre of filter area. Since that time, successfully higher flow rates have been used to produce more efficient filter plants that occupy less space and reduce overall cost.

Within the last 15 years, high rate sand filters have been the mainstays of the sand filtration process. The remainder of this chapter will deal with the high rate sand filter.


2.4.5) HIGH RATE SAND FILTERS

High rate sand filters are typically constructed of steel cylindrical pressure vessels with a special influent baffle in the top of the tank, with a bed of filter sand and a collection manifold.

There is no gravel support system for high rate sand filters; it is usually a single bed of sand. Dirt can be pushed deeper into the sand bed and greater flow rates are used. High rate sand filters function at a rate of 10 to 17 litres per second (I/s) per square metre of filter area.

Since the total flow requirements of a given pool can be satisfied through a bed of sand of considerably smaller surface area than in the case of rapid sand systems, the physical plant of the high rate filter is much smaller. High rate systems take up about 1/3 of the area of rapid sand systems.

High rate sand filters are normally backwashed in a similar manner as rapid sand filters with the flow of water reversed through the sand bed at a rate of 10-17 lis. This causes a scrubbing action that frees dirt from the sand. Gauges are mounted on both the influent and effluent lines to indicate when a backwash is required.

High Rate Sand Filters


QUESTIONS

1) The three types of sand filters are:___________________________________________.

2) The flow rate for conventional sand is __________than of a high rate sand filter.

3) Freeboard is __________________________________________.

4) It is important to check the _____________________when doing a backwash on your sand filter system.

5) For a swimming pool with a flow rate of 5 litres per second, a high-rate sand filter would need a minimum of __________ square metres to meet this flow rate.

6) A swimming pool with a volume of 700,000 litres has a turnover of 6 hours. How many filters (each filter with a 2-metre diameter) would be required to handle the flow at 10 I/s/m2.

7) Four high rate sand filters, each with a diameter of 1.75 metres contain how many square metres of filter area?

8) A swimming pool with 1,000,000 litres has a turnover of four hours. How many high rate filters operating at 10 I/s would be required to handle the flow? (Each filter has a 2.4m.)


2.4.6) TYPES OF DIATOMACEOUS EARTH FILTRATION

There are two basic types of diatomaceous earth filters: 1) pressure type, and 2) vacuum type Pressure type systems usually use a steel, closed tank.

The water is pushed through the tank by the circulation pump. Vacuum type systems are open tanks and can be made of steel, concrete or fibreglass. The water is pulled through the filters by the circulation pump.

Typical Open Diatomaceous Filter Tank

Diatomaceous earth is a filter media that is composed of the fossil remains of tiny aquatic life known as diatoms. Each skeleton is a porous framework in which the openings are sufficient in size to permit the flow of water, but obstruct the passage of virtually the smallest particle in the water. The diatomaceous earth filter cake is so efficient that a layer .32 centimetres (1/8 inch) thick will provide a filter bed equivalent to 60 centimetres.

The filter elements are generally made of plastic. They can be cylindrical, circular or rectangular (leaf).


2.4.7) OPERATION OF DIATOMACEOUS EARTH FILTERS

To begin the operation of the system, the filter tank must be isolated from the pool. Once the filter elements area clean and free of all diatomaceous earth and dirt, the filter tank is filled with water and the elements are pre-coated with diatomaceous earth. The system should be pre-coated at a recirculation rate of .378 litres per second per square meter of filter area (one gallon per minute per square foot of filter area).

Pre-coating the elements with diatomaceous earth involves mixing the diatomaceous earth with water and introducing the mixture (slurry) in the re-circulation system which will result in the slurry being deposited on the septum’s. Some systems make use of a "pre-coat pot".

Most often diatomaceous earth is added manually. The pre-coat slurry is prepared at a rate of two ounces of diatomaceous earth per square foot of filter element. This will result in a cake thickness of 1.6 mm (1/16 in). Once the pre-coat has covered the entire filter surface area, the system is put into normal operation. Normal operations should use a filtering flow rate of 1.0 litres per second per square metre of filter area. In order for diatomaceous earth to do its best filtering, the diatomaceous earth cake must remain porous. This is accomplished by adding a regulated amount of


diatomaceous earth to the filters during circulation and filtration. This is known as "slurry feed" or "body feed". There are numerous theories on how much diatomaceous earth should be added for a body feed. The rate of slurry feed is dependent upon the amount of dirt being brought into the pool. A rule of thumb is, add as much slurry feed as the pre-coat amount over the length of the filter run.

For example: If an operator added 15 kilograms (33 pounds) of diatomaceous earth as a pre-coat and, through experience knows that the filter run will last three weeks (21 days), the operator should add 15 kg (33 Ibs.) of slurry feed over the 21 days of 700 grams (11/2 pounds) per day. However, an operator must be prepared to add extra when additional dirt loads require it.

2.4.8) CLEANING DIATOMITE FILTERS

Filters build up resistance to water flow as dirt accumulates on the diatomaceous earth. This resistance is measured with pressure gauges or vacuum gauges depending on the system.

In a pressure system, since the filters are in a closed tank, there are a number of devices for reversing the flow of water through the septum to remove the diatomaceous earth to waste. Some systems may also use compressed air to clear the septum of accumulated dirt and diatomaceous earth.

Vacuum septum’s are in an open tank and are easily examined and cleaned. Once the tank is isolated, the filter elements simply need to be hosed down to move the diatomaceous earth to waste. Occasionally, the filter must be cleaned with a commercial filter cleaner. Regardless of how well a system is cleaned during a backwash, there will be an accumulation of dirt and oil on the septum and therefore some loss of filtering efficiency.


QUESTIONS

Fill in the blanks:

1) Diatomite filters are pre-coated to a depth of _______________________

2) The two types of diatomite filter systems are___________________and __________________.

3) Slurry feed is also known as _______________________________.

4) ________________________ are sometimes used to pre-coat filters before a filter run.

5) Calculate the amount of surface area of an open diatomaceous earth filter tank that has 20 filter septum’s that are 1.5 metres long and 1.0 metres wide.

6) How many leaf-type filter elements (.15m x 1.0m) are required for a pool with a flow\rate of 255 lps?

7) A pressure diatomaceous earth system has circular elements (1.0m diameter). The pool contains 300,000 litres. How many elements are required to accommodate a 6-hour turnover?


UNIT 3) POOL CHEMISTRY The chemistry of water balance is discussed and linked to corrective measures. Ph, chlorination, and other factors are connected to operational procedures for maintaining clean and safe pool water. Test procedures and correction procedures are detailed.

Water balance is the result of maintaining a group of chemical properties within tolerances that can be measured and corrected by the pool operator. This unit presents a series of methods for monitoring total alkalinity, pH, corrosiveness, and total dissolved solids. The use of chemical reagents to remedy imbalances is discussed with instructions about calculation, handling, storage and safety.

GOALS AND OBJECTIVES 1) Be able to measure ph and provide chemical correction when needed. 2) Be able to measure indicators of water quality and water balance. 3) Be able to carry out corrective measures to restore water balance. 4) Know how to handle and store chemicals. 5) Be able to handle chlorine and know how to use chlorine. 6) Be able to maintain proper flow of chemicals. 7) Calculate total dissolved solids. 8) Understand and apply the Langelier Saturation Index to determine water

balance requirements.


TOPIC 3.1)WATER BALANCE

3.1.1) THE pH OF WATER

The pH of water is a measure of its acidity or alkalinity. It is probably the most important factor in proper pool water quality because it affects all other factors.

On the pH scale from 1 -14, 7.0 is neutral, less than 7 is acidic, and above 7 is more alkaline (basic). The ideal pH for comfort of swimmers is 7.5.this is because the fluid around the human eyeball is approximately 7.5. When the pH approaches or goes below 7.4, the pool water rapidly loses chlorine. This can result in eye irritation as well as corrosion of pipes and equipment. However the lower pH will also increase the effectiveness of the chlorine. Running a pool at 7.2 is becoming more and more common in today’s public swimming facilities and the recommended level in some Health Acts is as low as 6.8.

If the pH approaches or goes above 7.6, the chlorine compounds used as disinfectants become less effective at killing bacteria. Even though a test kit will show chlorine still present, the chlorine has changed into a form only one-tenth as effective against algae and bacteria. At higher pH, scale will form on the equipment, in sand filters, and on the pool walls. Bathers' skin will itch and the water can become cloudy.

Pool water with a pH below 7.4 causes: eye irritation corrosion of metal in pipes, pumps, pool ladders, etc. destruction of total alkalinity, and rapid chlorine loss.

Pool water with a pH above 7.5 causes: eye irritation cloudy water scale formation short filter runs, and decreased effectiveness of chlorine.


3.1.2) TESTING FOR pH

Testing for pH normally involves the use of a colorimeter and a pH test reagent. The test reagent most often used in swimming pool application is "phenol red". The test procedure is to add a pre-measured amount of indicator solution to a vial of pool water, mix and compare the resulting colour with prepared standards. Follow the test kit manufacturer's instructions carefully.

Phenol red reagent is limited in its measurement of pH. It will read within ranges of 6.8 to 8.4 ph. Phenol red has a life expectancy of one year. Always check your chemicals for expiry dates.

ADJUSTING PH. THE ACID/DEMAND TEST Adjusting the pH of pool water is easily accomplished. pH is commonly raised by the addition of a base product such as soda ash (sodium carbonate) or caustic soda (sodium hydroxide). On the other hand, pH can be lowered by adding an acid product. Care should be taken when adding any chemical to your pool. Always add chemicals to water, not water to chemicals.

HANDS ON EXPERIENCE: 1) Test the pH of a sample of pool water. Record the relevant steps taken. 2) Test the pH of tap water. Compare with the pool water and indicate what

steps have to be taken to make both the same pH.

TOTAL ALKALINITY Total alkalinity is the quantitative measurement of alkaline material in the water. Generally, the higher the total alkalinity the greater the water's resistance to pH change. Total alkalinity is measured in parts per million (ppm). The recommended range for total alkalinity in swimming water is between 80-120 parts per million. The recommended ideal level is 100 parts per million. Total alkalinity is the governor of pH.

Pool water with an alkalinity range too low (under 80 parts per million) causes: staining of plaster, etching of plaster and pitting of concrete corrosion of metal in pipes, pumps, pool ladders and other equipment eye irritation, and pH bounce.


Pool water with an alkalinity range too high (over 200 parts per million) causes: cloudy water scale formation shortened filter runs, reduced circulation pH drift to 8.4 or higher, and almost constant acid demand.

CALCIUM HARDNESS Hardness refers to the measure of dissolved calcium plus a small assortment of other minerals and salts in the water. Water that formed suds readily was called "soft water"'; water that consumes suds is known as "hard water.” Calcium hardness is also measured in parts per million. The recommended range for calcium hardness in swimming pool water is 175-275 parts per million. The ideal is recommended at 200 parts per million. Soft water should never be allowed in swimming pool application.

Pool water with a calcium hardness range which is too low (under 150 parts per million) causes:

pitting of concrete, etching of plaster and staining of plaster.

Pool water with calcium hardness range which is too high (above 400 parts per million) causes:

scale formation rough, discoloured plastics calcium deposits in heaters and piping shortened filter runs, reduced circulation cloudy pool, and corrosion of metal in pipes, pumps, pool ladders and other equipment

TESTING FOR CALCIUM HARDNESS This procedure involves the use of a titration test kit. It involves the addition of pre-measured amounts of reagent to cause a colour change in the sample solution. Follow the test kit manufacturer's instructions carefully.

Reagents for calcium hardness testing have a life expectancy of one year. Always check your chemicals for expiry dates.


ADJUSTING CALCIUM HARDNESS To raise calcium hardness, calcium chloride is used (see Appendix III.) Since the cause of high calcium hardness will likely be your source water, lowering calcium hardness is a bigger challenge. In these situations, a sequestering agent may be necessary.

Sequestering agents make it very difficult for calcium to come out of solution and cause any problems. Although the calcium is still in the water, it is chemically tied up. These products are commercially available from a reputable pool supply company.

If your source water has high calcium hardness it will be necessary to use a sequestering agent on an ongoing basis. In order to avoid problems associated with scaling, the operator must follow the directions on the label very specifically. This will likely mean the addition of the sequestering agent weekly (maintenance dose).

Do not add more sequestering agent than is prescribed by the manufacturer. Overdosing may cause the pool to turn cloudy.

HANDS ON EXPERIENCE

1) Test the calcium hardness of a sample of pool water. Record the relevant steps taken.

2) Test the calcium hardness of tap water. Compare the results with the pool water and indicate what steps have to be taken to make both the same calcium hardness.

3.1.3) TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS

Total dissolved solids (TDS) is a measure of all the materials soluble in the water. There are many factors that add to the total dissolved solid concentration. Alkalinity and hardness contribute to total dissolved solids. In addition, sweat, urine, soluble hair sprays and body lotions all add to the total. Dust, leaves and grass clippings as well as materials contained in rain that has passed through polluted air contribute once they are dissolved in the water.


Total dissolved solids are measured in parts per million. The recommended maximum for total dissolved solids is 1500 parts per million.

High total dissolved solids reduce the activity of chemicals in the water by impairing the effectiveness of sanitizers, algaecides and other treatment chemicals, contribute to turbidity (cloudiness) of pool water and give the water a salty taste and dull appearance. Under most circumstances, it is very unusual to have pool water with a total dissolved solids reading of over 1500 parts per million.

TESTING FOR DISSOLVED SOLIDS This procedure involves the use of a titration test kit. It involves the addition of pre-measured amounts of reagent to cause turbidity in the sample solution. Follow the test kit manufacturer's instructions carefully.

ADJUSTING TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS Total dissolved solids can be lowered through dilution of the pool with fresh make-up water. Fresh water typically contains a total dissolved solid level of less than 500 parts per million; well below that of the pool.

3.1.4) WATER TEMPERATURE Heated water is necessary for bather comfort and in some cases to extend a swimming season. Ordinarily the water temperature should be kept between 26.6 °C (80oF) and 28.8 °C (84 OF).

If water temperature is kept above 30°C (86 o F), algae growth is more common and an increased chlorine demand can be expected.

3.1.5) LANGLIER SATURATION INDEX

Water balance is an ideal interaction of pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, total dissolved solids and temperature. None of these factors will, on their own, tell an operator whether or not their water is in a desired state. Water balance is measured by the Langlier Saturation Index.


This index was developed in 1936 by Dr. Wilfred F. Langlier at the University of California, Berkeley for the boiler industry. The formula uses known parameters of water balance to help determine whether water is corrosive, scale forming or balanced. The formula assumes that the total dissolved solids is below 2,000 parts per million and, therefore, has a common factor of 12.1.

Langlier Saturation Index = pH + TF + CF + AF -12.1 (S.I.)

Where:1) pH is the actual testing reading.2) TF is the temperature factor.3) CF is the calcium hardness factor.4) AF is the total alkalinity factor. 5) If the S.I. = 0, the water is chemically in balance. 6) If the S.I.= a minus value, corrosive tendencies are indicated. 7) If the S.I.= a plus value, scale forming tendencies are indicated.

Note: Although ideally the water should be at 0, the acceptable range for LSI is -.3 to +.3See Appendix I for a list of conversion factors.

Example 1 Southburn Pool has a pH of 7.9, total alkalinity of 300 ppm, calcium hardness of 800 ppm and water temperature of 28.8 °C. What is the saturation index?

S.I. = pH + TF + CF + AF -12.1

Temperature of 28.8 °C gives a temperature factor of .7, alkalinity of 300 parts per million gives an alkalinity factor of 2.5, and hardness of 800 parts per million gives a hardness factor of 2.5.

S.I. = 7.9 + .7 + 2.5 + 2.5 -12.1 S.I. = 1.5

The index of 1.5 indicates Southburn Pool has water with scale forming tendencies.


Example 2 Northtown Pool has a pH of 7.1, calcium hardness of 100 ppm, total alkalinity of 50 ppm and water temperature of 28.8 °C. What is the saturation index?

S.I. = pH + TF + CF + AF -12.1 S.I. = 7.1 + .7 + 1.6 + 1.7 -12.1 S.I. = -1.0

The index of -1.0 indicates Northtown Pool has water with corrosive tendencies. Example 3 Frontier Pool has a pH of 7.5, water temperature of 28.8°C, calcium hardness of 200 ppm and total alkalinity of 100 ppm. What is the saturation index?

S.I. = pH + TF + CF + AF -12.1(write in the appropriate coefficients)

S.I. =

S.I. =

By using this procedure, an operator can easily determine how to adjust the chemicals to reach correct water balance.To correct the conditions at Southburn Pool, what parameters, if any, would you adjust? To correct the conditions at Northtown Pool, what parameters, if any, would you adjust?

QUESTIONSFill in the blanks. 1) __________________________________ are used to raise pH.

2) A pH value of under 7.0 is ________________________.Water with a pH of 7.0 is _________________________ and a pH value higher than 7.0 is ______________________________.

3) _____________________________ is used to test pH values.

4) Three effects of a pH below 7.0 are: _____________________________


_____________________________________________________________.

5) The recommended range for total alkalinity in swimming pool water is ______________ to ________________ .

6) Total alkalinity is expressed in __________________.

7) Four effects of a high total alkalinity are: _________________________________________________________________________________________________.

8) ___________________________ is used to lower total alkalinity. 9) The ideal range for calcium hardness is __________ to _________ ppm.

10) Calcium chloride is used to ______________________ calcium hardness.

11) Two effects of low calcium hardness (under 150 ppm) are:

12) Two effects of high total dissolved solids (over 2,000 ppm) are: _______________________ and _______________________ .

13) Total dissolved solids can be reduced by _______________________________________ _________________________________________________________________________.

14) _______________________ and _______________________ .

15) The Langlier Saturation Index tells us if swim pool water is _________ , and _____________.

16) A negative number derived with the saturation index indicates the water is _______________________________________.

17) Smithton Pool has a volume of 850,000 litres. It has a pH of 7.5, total alkalinity of 100 and calcium hardness of 120. How much calcium chloride would you add to bring the hardness level to ideal (200 ppm)?

18) Eastly Pool has a volume of 660,000 litres. It has a pH of 7.5, total alkalinity of 170 and calcium hardness of 200. How much muriatic acid would


you add to bring the total alkalinity to ideal (100 ppm)? 4) Determine the Langlier Saturation Index for the following situations:

pH Calcium Hardness Total Alkalinity Temp. °C a) 7.2 100 250 29 b) 7.6 200 5 24 c) 7.6 5 100 24 d) 9.2 400 200 29 e) 7.8 300 150 12 f) 9.2 200 0 53 g) 7.5 200 100 3 h) 7.5 200 25 24

3.1.6) POOL WATER TESTING

There are various methods for testing pool water: 1) colorimeters (DPD tablets, liquid) 2) titration (based on colour changes) 3) test strips 4) spectra-analysis (electronic colorimeter analysis -percentage

transmittance) 5) electronic.

Colorimetric kits are most commonly used in pools. They have a reasonable degree of accuracy. Titration is also used and is fairly accurate. To prevent error in your pool tests follow these procedures:

1) Follow directions carefully and accurately. Measure reagents precisely.

2) Keep tubes, eye droppers, reagent bottles, etc. clean. a) When doing tests use a clean coffee stir stick to mix. Use it only once and

discard immediately.

3) Do not interchange reagents, solution tubes, droppers, etc.

4) Keep fresh reagents. Shelf life is determined by the manufacturer.

5) Use only reagents supplied by the manufacturer of your test kit.


6) Keep reagents in a dark, cool environment.

7) Keep reagents away from prolonged direct sunlight and high or low temperatures.

3.1.7) BACTERIOLOGICAL TESTING 1) Never rinse out the sodium thiosulphate in the bottle. 2) Do your test just before mailing. 3) Never touch the top of the sample bottle or inside of cap. 4) Sample in a sweeping motion at about elbow depth. 5) Sample in a consistent location.

Ensure that the sample is received by the Provincial Laboratory of Public Health within 24 hours after the time of collection. INTERPRETATION OF BACTERIOLOGICAL ANALYSIS REPORT

BACTERIOLOGICAL INDICATORS The coliform group of micro-organisms has been the most commonly used bacteriological indicator of water quality. The coliform group includes faecal and non-faecal coliform, the addition of which gives total coliform. (e.g.: Faecal Coliform + Non-Faecal = Total Coliform 6 + 4 = 10) Faecal Coliform: Faecal coliform bacteria characteristically occur in large numbers in the intestines and faeces of warm blooded animals (i.e., includes man). Faecal coliform are an indication of contamination by sewage, either human or animal. Esherichia coli is the most common faecal coliform.

Total Coliform: Total coliform indicates contamination from sources other than sewage. This contamination usually takes the form of surface water infiltration via the well cribbing. Surface water may contain organisms found in soils and on vegetation which upon entering a well can cause contamination. Klebsiella, Enterobacter and Citrobacter genera are the most common in this group. These coliform organisms are more resistant to chlorination than faecal coliform and bacteriological pathogens.

Standard Plate Count: There are many micro-organisms commonly present in treated water whose numbers far exceed those of the coliform group. The Standard Plate Count (S.P.C.) is a quantitative estimate of bacteria of all types


present in a given sample. This includes bacteria which are harmful as well as those which are harmless. The S.P.C. is used as a tool for comparing the adequacy of chlorination in many samples over a period of time.

Water Quality: The quality of pool water is considered to be: Satisfactory when coliform organisms are detected when the S.P.C. is less than 200 counts per 1 ml. of pool sample water when no Pseudomonas aeruginosa organisms are detected.

Unsatisfactory when faecal coliform organisms are present. Such water should not be

used for drinking purposes or for swimming without treatment. when the S.P.C. exceeds 200 counts per 1 mi. of pool sample water. when pseudomonas aeruginosa organisms are detected.

Confluent Growth: When confluent growth is reported it means the nature of bacterial growth is such that it is impossible to determine either types or numbers of bacteria present. Another water sample should be submitted as soon as possible.

The operator should indicate on the "Remarks" section of the form: "NOTE previous sample CONFLUENT GROWTH". By doing this, the Public Health Laboratory will use another method to complete the various tests.

3.1.8) ADDITION OF SPECIALTY CHEMICALS

These chemicals include the following: Meta Sol - To prevent mineral scale Formula 500 - To prevent or kill algae Oxy-Out- To oxidize organics in pool water

With the pH and alkalinity of the pool balanced, we can now add our specialty chemicals.

1) MetasolThis is a sequestering agent designed to keep metals and minerals from oxidizing in the pool and causing stains. Dosage 1 litre per 100 litres of pool water (1 quart per 26 US gallons). Always wait a minimum of four hours


before adding other chemicals.

2) Formula 500Formula 500 is a concentrated algaecide, designed to kill algae and prevent algae from growing. Dosage 200 millilitres per 100 litres or 1 cup per 26 US gallons. Always wait four hours before adding other chemicals.

3) Oxy-OutAdd Oxy-Out to oxidize or burn out foreign organic contaminants. These contaminants will reduce the effectiveness of chlorine as a disinfectant.

Dosage 1.50 kilogram per 100 litres of pool water 3.3 pounds per 26 US gallons of pool water All specialty chemicals are broadcast or poured over the surface of the pool. Do not put them in the skimmer. If in doubt, follow labels on packages.


3.1.9) ADDITION OF SANITIZER

With the pH of the pool balanced and all specialty chemicals added we can now add the sanitizer: "granular chlorine". Granular chlorine will actively oxidize and kill bacteria in the pool water.

To maintain this ability to kill bacteria, it is necessary to maintain a minimum of Free Available Chlorine (F.A.C.) reading at 1.5 ppm. The granular chlorine is broadcast over the surface of the water. This chlorine will need to be added daily to maintain the F.A.C. at 1.5 ppm. You will have to adjust dosages to correspond to the readings you get on your Test Kit.

Suggested Dosage 130 grams per 100 000 litres. If these volumes are followed you should almost never have any problems with the initial balance of your pool. Always remember to allow the correct time frames between adding chemicals. Always maintain pool circulation once chemicals are added. This balancing process will take at least one week.

3.1.10) TESTING WITH A TEST KIT

In order to balance your pool water, you must first test the pool water and its chemistry. In this section you will learn how to test for pH, free and total chlorine, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and stabilizer content.

When testing with your test kit: 1) Carefully wash and rinse test tubes after each use. 2) Avoid prolonged exposure of all test components to direct sunlight. 3) Avoid extreme high temperatures and protect all components from

freezing. 4) Keep reagents and equipment out of the reach of young children.

For test readings that indicate a pH reading below 7.2, the following table should be consulted.


FREE AVAILABLE CHLORINE (F.A.C.)1) Rinse a test tube (0101) with water to be tested, then refill the tube to the

10 ml line. 2) Add one DPD #lR tablet, cap the tube, and shake to dissolve. 3) Immediately insert test tube in comparator (6612) and match colour in

test tube against the chlorine standards to obtain value.

This value represents the Free Available Chlorine content of the test sample. Recommended minimum Free Available Chlorine level in pool water is 1.0 ppm in unstabilized pools, and 2.0 ppm in stabilized pools. For bather safety after super-chlorination, the maximum level of free chlorine is 3.0 ppm.

Do not discard this test sample if total residual chlorine is to be determined.

TOTAL RESIDUAL CHLORINE (T.R.C.) 1) Add one DPD #3 tablet to the Free Available Chlorine test sample

prepared in Procedure 1 above. 2) Cap tube and shake to dissolve tablet. 3) Insert tube in comparator to obtain colour match.

The resulting value represents the Total Residual Chlorine of the test sample. The difference between the Free Available Chlorine and the Total Residual Chlorine readings represents the amount of combined chlorine present in the test sample. Thoroughly clean and rinse test tubes after each test.

Ideally, Total Residual Chlorine should equal the Free Available Chlorine reading. Combined chlorine is recommended not to exceed 0.2 ppm.

PH - PHENOL RED 1) Fill a test tube to the 10 ml line with the pool water to be tested. 2) Add one Phenol Red Indicator Tablet and gently shake to dissolve. 3) Immediately insert tube in comparator to obtain colour match.

Recommended optimum pH range for pool water is pH 7.4 -7.6


ALKALINITY 1) Rinse the graduated tube (0969) with the water to be tested, then fill the

tube to the 400 ppm line. 2) Add one ALK TEST tablet (3920) and gently swirl the tube to dissolve the

tablet. 3) If a red colour develops, continue to add sample water in small amounts

from the water-sampling bottle. 4) Measure the height of the liquid against the scale printed on the tube and

read the test result directly on the scale. 5) Rinse the test tube thoroughly after each test.

If green colour develops, continue to sample water in small amounts from the water sampling bottle. Shake the tube after each addition.

The test result is expressed as total alkalinity in parts per million calcium carbonate. The recommended optimum range for total alkalinity is 80 -120 parts per million (ppm).

HARDNESS 1) Rinse and fill the water sampling bottle with the water to be tested. 2) Rinse the graduated test tube (0969) with the water to be tested. 3) Add one Hardness Tablet (6917) to the graduated test tube. 4) Add water sample to the 400 ppm mark. 5) Gently swirl the tube to disintegrate the tablet. 6) If a blue colour is present, continue to add small amounts of water sample

(shaking the tube between each addition), until the blue colour changes to red or purple.

7) Carefully rinse the graduated tube after each test.

If a red colour is present, the total hardness is above 400 ppm. The level of solution in the test tube is measured against the marked graduations on the test tube. If the reading falls between two marked graduations, the reading is taken ad the midpoint of the two values. The reading is expressed as total hardness in parts per million calcium carbonate. Recommended optimum range for total hardness is 100 .250 parts per million


(ppm).


CYANURIC ACID/STABILIZER 1) Remove the square tube cap assembly and fill the round tube to the top

line with the sample to be tested. 2) Add one cyanuric acid tablet. Cap the round tube with the solid cap and

shake to dissolve. 3) Replace the solid cap with the square tube cap assembly. 4) Viewing from above, adjust the square tube in the turbid solution until the

black dot on its base just disappears. 5) Read the height of the liquid in the square tube against the scale on the

square tube's side, which is calibrated directly in parts per million cyanuric acid.

This test employs a double tube assembly comprising a calibrated square tube which slides up or down within a larger round tube. Disregard solid particles that settle to the bottom after the tablet dissolves. The formation of turbidity indicates the presence of cyanuric acid.

The square tube will slide up or down through the cap attachment and will fill with liquid.

Hold the round tube near the top with thumb and forefinger to avoid blocking light. A reading between two values may be estimated. An ideal reading is between 35 -50 ppm.


TOPIC 3.2)CHEMICAL HANDLING

3.2.1) SOME SIMPLE PRECAUTIONS Handling chemicals is easy if you are careful and take the necessary precautions. Follow these steps:

1) Read directions on labels carefully. 2) Use exact quantities specified. 3) Do not mix chemicals.

DANGEROUS GOODS Regulations Goods shipped by air to the Northwest Territories must be shipped according to the guidelines of the International Air Traffic Association Dangerous Goods Regulations.

1) Chemicals must be properly identified. 2) There is a maximum amount of each chemical that can be shipped per

container or per carton. 3) Packaging requirements must be specified.


POOL CHEMICALS MAXIMUM QUANTITIESFOR SHIPPING BY AIR FOR PASSENGER CARRYING AIRCRAFT

CAPO Product Name

Shipping Name Type U.N Pin

Class

PKG Group

Maximum Quantity per Container by Air

Maximum Quantity per Carton by Air

Labels

Stab. Gran. Chlorine

Dichloroisocyanuric Acid

Dry 2465

5.1 II 5OOg 5kg Oxydizer

Stab. Chlorine Puck

Trichloroisocyanuric Acid

Dry 2468

5.1 II 5kg 5kg Oxydizer

Pool Shock

Calcium Hypochlorite Dry 174

8 5.1 II 5kg 5kg Oxydizer

pH Down

Sodium Hydrogen Sulphate Solid 182

1 8 III 2.5 kg 12kg Corrosive

Oxy-Out Oxidizing Substance N.O.S. Potassium Peroxymonosulphate

Dry 1479

5.1 III 5OOg 5kg Oxydizer

C-Clear Corrosive liquid N.O.S. Aluminum Chloride

Liquid

1700

8 II 500 ml 1L Corrosive

Yuter Free

Corrosive Solid N.O.S. Sodium Hydrogen Sulphate

Solid 1759

8 III 2.5 kg 12kg Corrosive

Muriatic Acid

Hydrochloric Acid Solution

Liquid

1789 8 II 500 ml 1L Corrosiv

e OTO Solution

Hydrochloric Acid Solution

Liquid

1789 8 II 5OOml 1L Corrosiv

e Chor-Aid

Dichloroisocyanuric Acid Dry 246

5 5.1 II 5OOg 5kg Oxydizer

Liquid Sodium Liqui 179 8 III 12Oml 1L Corrosiv


Chlorine Hypochlorite Solution d 1 e

Energize

Oxydizing Substance N.O.S. Potassium Peroxymonosulphate

Dry 1479

5.1 II 5OOg 5kg Oxydizer

TOPIC 3.3)CHLORINE Chlorine belongs to the halogen group of chemicals (bromine and iodine included) that are used to sanitize water. Chlorine is a gas at room temperature and pressure. Chlorine gas is green in colour, has a characteristic odour, which is irritating and is extremely poisonous. Pure chlorine becomes liquid at high pressures.

Chlorine products are available in various forms: gas, solid and liquid. Regardless of the form, the primary purpose of chlorine is to combine with water to form hypochlorous acid to produce a very efficient oxidizer and disinfectant.

3.3.1) CHLORINE-WATER REACTIONS

When water and chlorine combine they form: 1) Hypochlorous Acid - kills bacteria in its molecular form (HOCI) as well as

oxidizes organic material. HOCI is loosely bonded and is unstable in the presence of sunlight and high temperatures. It readily combines with ammonia to form chloramines which greatly reduce its germicidal value. The strength of HOCI is dependent on pH of the pool water.

2) Hydrochloric Acid – (HCl) is the by-product of chlorine and water. It is a very strong, stable acid and causes a drop of pH. This acid has very little oxidizing or disinfecting qualities.

3.3.2) CHLORINE DEMAND AND RESIDUAL CHLORINE

Chlorine demand is defined as the amount of chlorine that must be added to the pool at any given moment to react with all the substances in the water. In order for chlorine to be of any use against foreign material in the pool, it must be


"available". There are two types of chlorine residuals:

1) Free available chlorine (FAC) is the chlorine residual not attached to any other compound. It is ready to react with bacteria and organic products. Free available chlorine should be no lower than 1.5 ppm.

2) Combined available chlorine (CAC) is also known as chloramines. Chloramines are formed when free available chlorine combines with ammonia and nitrogen compounds. Combined chlorine causes the characteristic “chlorine odour" and eye irritation.

Total available chlorine (TAC) is the sum of the free available chlorine and combined available chlorine. Free available chlorine and combined available chlorine have different kill rates. Free available chlorine can kill at one part per million in less than 15 seconds. Combined chlorine at one part per million required 40 minutes to disinfect.

3.3.3) TESTING FOR CHLORINE

There are three types of chlorine test readings: 1) free2) combined and 3) total.

Free chlorine is effective in destroying bacteria and organic materials. The combined chlorine represents the amount of combined chlorine in the water and operators should attempt to keep this level to a minimum. Free, plus combined, equal total chlorine residual.

The most common method of testing for chlorine is DPD (Dimethyl-P-Phenylene Diamine) and is available through various distributors such as TAYLOR, HACH AND LAMONT.

Test kits with precise liquid standards, closely graduated, are also available. Some kits use clear water vials next to the test vial to make the optical light paths similar when judging colour standards to the chemical readout.

3.3.4) ADDING/ADJUSTING CHLORINE


Chlorine can be added to the pool in gaseous or liquid form through gas chlorinators or solution feeders. Chlorine gas comes in pressurized steel cylinders to which a gas chlorinator is attached either directly to the tank stem or to a wall unit via a yoke and system of hoses. Normally, a tank of chlorine is chained upright on a scale so that an operator can tell how much chlorine is used by weight. The gas chlorine is regulated through a rota meter that usually is graded in pounds per 24 hours.

Since gas chlorine combines with water to form hypochlorous and hydrochloric acid, an operator must be prepared to maintain the pH through the addition of an alkaline solution. Hydrochloric acid will cause the pH to drop unless counteracted with soda ash or caustic soda.

Sodium hypochlorite is a liquid and is usually fed through a hypochlorinator (a solution tank and chemical feed pump). Calcium hypochlorite or lithium may be dissolved and fed as a liquid.

Unlike chlorine gas, most other forms of chlorine results in an increase in the pH. This situation has to be counteracted by the addition of muriatic acid.


TYPES OF CHLORINE

Products Advantages Disadvantages Gas Chlorine, Cylinders (100% effective)

• Effective • Reasonable cost • Compatible with other sanitizers • No objectionable tastes, colours or odours, in pool water • Can be stabilized

• Corrosive • Hard to handle • Special metering equipment • Trained operator required • Lowers pH significantly • Chlorine residual in pool water lost to sunlight (unless stabilized)

Sodium Hypochlorite Liquid Bleach (12-15% effective)

• Effective • Reasonable cost • Compatible with other chemicals in pool water • No objectionable tastes, odours, or colours in pool water • Can be stabilized • No insolubles

• Relatively unstable • Raises pH • Hard to handle • Chlorine residual in pool water lost to sunlight (unless stabilizes) • High TDS count • Loses strength rapidly

Calcium Hypochlorite Granular and Tablet (65% effective)

• Effective • Reasonable cost • Compatible with other chemicals in pool water • No objectionable tastes, colours or odours in pool water • Can be stabilized • Easy to handle • Minor effect on pH

• Small amount of insolubles • Strong oxidizing agent • Chlorine residual in pool water lost to sunlight (unless stabilized)

Lithium HypochloriteGranular and Tablet(35% effective)

EffectiveCompatible with other chemicals in pool waterCan be stabilizedReadily insoluble

ExpensiveContains only 35% chlorineChlorine residual in pool water lost to sunlight (unless stabilized)


QUESTIONS

1) When chlorine is added to water ____________________ and ___________________ are formed.

2) _________________________ is an effective bactericide.

3) _________________________ lowers pH in pool water.

4) Three forms of chlorine are _____________________, ______________________ and ______________________.

5) When hypochlorous acid reacts with nitrogen a ____________________ is formed.

6) Chlorine gas comes in ___________________________.

7) Chlorine, bromine and iodine are classed as ______________________.

8) Calcium hypochlorite comes in ________________________ form.

9) Chlorine solution is added to the pool with a _____________________.

10) Chlorine demand refers to ______________________________ .

11) Total available chlorine is the combination of _____________________ and ____________________________.

12) Gas chlorine causes the pH to ________________________.


Pools Level 1 Manual Web viewMeasure diagonals for sides A-D and sides B-C. If side A-D do not equal...

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