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Sunlight streams in through the atrium’s glass ceiling (maybe too bright for

some), as Tavern’s bevy of brunchgoers sip on seasonal Bellinis and nosh

on Larder Cobb salads and lemon ricotta pancakes. As always, the faces

are varied—pick a Sunday and the crowd likely includes recognizable regulars

like Reese Witherspoon and James L. Brooks alongside Brentwood socialites,

food bloggers clamoring to try chef Suzanne Goin’s latest creation, and well-to-

do soccer moms freshly showered after morning

SoulCycle jaunts. The common denominator? A

sense of foodie-fueled fun—driven by one of the

Westside’s most vibrant brunch scenes.

“There is a relaxed festiveness that happens at

brunch at Tavern—the space really comes alive

during that time,” says sommelier and co-owner

Caroline Styne. “It’s a fabulous place to hang.”

It’s not surprising that Tavern swiftly became

Brentwood’s power-brunch haven upon opening four years ago. Following in

the footsteps of Goin and Styne’s other LA eateries (Lucques and A.O.C.), the

restaurant carried an impressive pedigree, and Eater anointed the spot “the

new black” after Anna Wintour visited early on. Plus, the time was just right to

introduce a stylish new concept in Brentwood, according to Stacey Snider,

DreamWorks SKG Studios principal partner, cochairman, and CEO.

“Brentwood has a lot of great spots, but it surpris-

ingly lacked a central watering hole,” says Snider, a

regular who lives nearby. “As food-conscious an

area as this is, there was this vacuum. Tavern fits the

bill—it hits every need and addresses every mood.”

To that end, the restaurant’s key vision has indeed

been to accommodate virtually any type of occa-

sion—whether it’s a girlie lunch date for Witherspoon

And on the Seventh Day… BRUNCH!FOR LA’S POWER CROWD, “FANCY BRUNCH” IN BRENTWOOD HAS BECOME A HOLY SUNDAY RITUAL. BY JEN JONES DONATELLI

BELOW: Tavern’s natural light–filled atrium is the place

to see and be seen for brunch on the Westside.

ABOVE: No breakfast is complete without a latte, freshly concocted Bloody Mary infused with bay leaves and rosemary, and a basket of Chef’s Choice pastries. LEFT: Head bartender Christiaan Rollich blends farmers market finds to create his signature cocktails.

continued on page 108

“ �ere is a relaxed festiveness that happens at brunch—the space really comes alive during that time.”

—CAROLINE STYNE

106 LA-CONFIDENTIAL-MAGAZINE.COM

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FROM TOP: A pastry chef adds a layer of sinfully rich chocolate buttercream to a chocolate cake; a Meyer lemon crostada; Dustin Hoffman and Anna Wintour helped put Tavern on the map. RIGHT: Soft-scrambled eggs with Fontina and crème fraîche.

continued from page 106

WHAT TO ORDERSignature brunch dishes include soft-scrambled eggs with

Fontina and crème fraîche; bacon-wrapped dates stuffed

with Parmesan; and brisket hash. Co-owner Caroline

Styne’s personal favorite is the smoked fish plate, served

with a rye baguette: “It’s the perfect alternative to a

bagel,” she says. “Suzanne [Goin] uses this really delicious

goat cheese instead of traditional cream cheese, and the

lovely capers take it beyond.” Thirsty? Order a classic gin

fizz cocktail, or try the restaurant’s top-selling “Tavern on

the Green” (a Thai-inspired cane rum cocktail with basil,

lime, jalapeño, and cilantro).

BEST TABLES IN THE HOUSEThink outside the box, as the four corners of Tavern’s

inviting atrium house the restaurant’s most desirable

tables. Many regulars consider the atrium itself the best

place to sit, an ironic turn of events according to chef

Suzanne Goin. “The atrium was the biggest mess when we

got the space—it was actually closed and used for storage

[by Hamburger Hamlet],” she says. “It’s funny that what

was initially the biggest design challenge ended up being

the most sought-after of the spaces.”

and Mindy Kaling or a high-powered

Obama fundraising dinner. Influenced by

NYC’s Balthazar, Goin and Styne designed

Tavern with the vision of seamlessly going

from early morning through late night.

They chose a sprawling space on San

Vicente that had previously housed

Hamburger Hamlet, creating three dis-

tinctly different spaces within. In front sits

The Larder, a bustling quick-service area with a farm-

to-table feel; in the center, ground zero for happy

hour, the low-lit “Blue Room” (which Goin cor-

rectly calls “sexy and moody”); and in back, the

aforementioned atrium, a formal dining room

with real trees and abundant natural light.

This versatility has made Tavern a favorite

with celebs like Adam Sandler, Jennifer

Garner, Jessica Alba, and Dustin Hoffman,

as well as its loyal Westside regulars. “There

is something for everybody—it’s like a three-

part restaurant,” says head bartender

Christiaan Rollich. “The thing that brings it

all together is the philosophy and integrity

with the way everything is made.”

Like Lucques and A.O.C., Tavern’s menu

changes seasonally; most everything is made

from scratch each day. Rollich likens the kitchen

to a “nonstop machine” constantly in motion—

from the bakers who work overnight to the pastry

chefs who show up before sunrise. Even Rollich

often reports to work at 4:30 AM to start making

fresh juices for The Larder and prepping his mar-

ket-fresh ingredients and homemade liqueurs.

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continued from page 108

liqueurs. “There are no shortcuts to what we do,”

says Rollich. “Everything has to be perfect.”

Though the restaurant stays steadily busy from

opening until closing, brunch is one of the busiest

service times. “Brunch is sort of becoming a big

deal here,” says executive pastry chef Christina

Olufson, adding that the brunch menu receives the

most Yelp reviews. The buzz around brunch is

partly due to Olufson herself—her “Chef’s Choice”

basket is one of the most popular picks, featuring

treats like monkey bread, almond croissants, and

bacon-topped pecan sticky buns. She also uses a

Pacojet to experiment with different ice cream fla-

vors, using fresh produce from the Santa Monica

Farmers Market; her latest flavors are lemon ver-

bena ice cream and labne (strained yogurt)

sherbet.

The hard work seems to be paying off for Goin’s

young protegé. Named one of Zagat’s “2012 Los

Angeles 30 Under 30,” Olufson is now getting her

due. And she’s not alone—it’s been a big year in gen-

eral for the Tavern family. Along with relocating

A.O.C. in February, Goin and Styne have

expanded The Larder brand to include three addi-

tional locations (one at LAX, one in LA, and one in

Beverly Hills), and they’re getting ready to open a

wholesale bakery on Robertson to accommodate

the high demand from the new Larder offshoots,

plus Goin is releasing her first cookbook in seven

years this October, focused on dishes from A.O.C.

and featuring wine notes by Caroline Styne. “We

actually didn’t mean for it all to happen in one year,

but it just sort of fell into place like that,” says Goin.

“We feel like [The Larder] is a concept that works in

every neighborhood.” But fear not, brunch aficiona-

dos—home base will always be Brentwood, where

stylish Sunday repasts reign. 11648 San Vicente

Blvd., LA, 310-806-6464; tavernla.com LAC

Luscious cherry pie à la mode with almond ice

cream and cornmeal cookie crumbles.

Deemed the world’s most complex cocktail, the Bloody Mary is

essentially guaranteed to pep up any palate—thanks to its

potent blend of vodka, vegetables, and liquid heat. Though

certain staples like tomato juice and Worcestershire sauce are a given,

the recipe is ripe for experimentation. Down at Manhattan Beach’s

MB Post, the cocktail is garnished with a hard-boiled quail egg, caper

berry, and a slice of picante salami, while the new DIY Bloody Mary

Bar at Public Kitchen and Bar includes options like artichoke hearts,

jumbo shrimp, and Spanish chorizo. “It’s like a salad in a cocktail

glass,” explains Scot Jones, executive chef at Crossroads. “People love

to add that extra kick.” But with so many takes on this classic brunch

cocktail, how can you be sure your own recipe is on point? Get some

tips from three of LA’s top Mary makers.

Fashionably Infused Mr. C Beverly HillsSummertime is Bloody Mary time at this chic hotel. “At our Sunday

pool parties, it’s one of our best-selling drinks,” says restaurant man-

ager Daiano Morassi. When mixing Marys, Morassi’s secret is to use

rich, high-quality San Marzano tomatoes from Naples rather than

tomato juice. Infusion is also key—first thing in the morning, Morassi

dresses the tomatoes in celery salt, fresh-ground pepper, Tabasco, and

Worcestershire sauce so they’ll be full flavored by serving time. His

other trick? Don’t use ice inside the Bloody Mary—instead, shake it on

ice and strain. “Adding ice to a thick juice makes it watery,” Morassi

explains. 1224 Beverwil Dr., LA, 310-277-2800; mrchhotels.com

Va-Va-Voom Vegan CrossroadsMaking a vegan Bloody Mary doesn’t have to mean sacrificing big fla-

vor. To make the Mary mix at Crossroads, Jones utilizes freshly shaved

horseradish, fresh-squeezed tomato and lemon juices, soy sauce, dry

mustard, onion and garlic powder, and a gluten-free, vegan

Worcestershire sauce. Other unique touches include quinoa-based

vodka and pickled celery root as garnish. Yet Jones’s top-secret weapon

is celery seed: “Lots of premade mixes and Bloody Marys I’ve tried are

missing this ingredient; you should add it if you’re making your own,”

he advises. 8284 Melrose Ave., LA, 323-782-9245; crossroadskitchen.com

Posh Spicey FigAt Fig, brunch revelers have two options for sipping: the traditional

Bloody Mary and the Bloody Maria (made with reposado tequila and

served with a bacon-salted rim). Bartender Angela Tabora’s philoso-

phy is essentially “the more spice, the better,” adding horseradish and

both Tabasco and Tapatio hot sauces to that end. She’s also a big

believer in mixing things up. “Feel free to explore—be creative,” urges

Tabora. Some of her favorite variations include substituting sake and

wasabi for vodka and Tabasco, or making a homemade gazpacho mix

with peppers, tomatoes, and onions. Fairmont Hotel & Bungalows,

Santa Monica, 310-319-3111; figsantamonica.com

Bloody GoodALL HAIL THE MARY—THREE LA MIXOLOGISTS GIVE THEIR INSIDE SECRETS TO MAKING THE CLASSIC COCKTAIL. BY JEN JONES DONATELLI

The perfect Bloody Mary is a brunch must-drink!

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