Photo Manual A5 English Master 2011 V2 - BTB...

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1 Operation Manual Windscreen Repair System (Elite & Classic kits) Contents 1. Health & Safety Page 2 2. About Windscreen Repairs Page 5 3. Preparation Page 6 4. Warming the Glass Page 9 5. Repair Bridge set up Page 11 6. Bullseye Repair Page 16 7. Star Break Repair Page 23 8. Crack Repair (up to 150mm) Page 29 9. Crack Repair (150 – 300mm) Page 32 10. Troubleshooting Page 35 11. Parts List Page 38

Transcript of Photo Manual A5 English Master 2011 V2 - BTB...

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Operation Manual

Windscreen Repair System(Elite & Classic kits)

Contents

1. Health & Safety Page 2

2. About Windscreen Repairs Page 5

3. Preparation Page 6

4. Warming the Glass Page 9

5. Repair Bridge set up Page 11

6. Bullseye Repair Page 16

7. Star Break Repair Page 23

8. Crack Repair (up to 150mm) Page 29

9. Crack Repair (150 – 300mm) Page 32

10. Troubleshooting Page 35

11. Parts List Page 38

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1. Health and Safety(All Repair Systems)

Windscreen repair resins carry an irritation-warning label.

We would strongly recommend that you useeither protective gloves or use barrier cream toprotect your skin from irritation.

We would recommend that you protect youreyes with approved safety glasses. Fragmentsof lose glass or resin splashes may be harmfulto you if they get into your eyes. Resin splashesmay be washed out with water and then seekmedical assistance immediately.

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The curing lamp emits ultra violet radiation.Although the lamp is of a low output and in thesafer UVA range, we would recommend thatyou avoid exposure to skin and eyes.

Health & Safety information is printed on theResin Insert card supplied with every pack ofUV resin.

The UV resins may be harmful to certain typesof paintwork. Take care not to spill resin ontothe bodywork. Where possible, the use of abonnet cover is recommended.If a spillage occurs, then wipe the area cleanimmediately. Any marks can then be removedby using the pit fill polish with a soft, cleancloth. *Specially designed bonnet covers areavailable from Esprit

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Do NOT repair windscreens in directsunlight. Daylight contains ultra violet light,which will lead to premature curing of theresin. (Even on a cold cloudy day there is aUV content in daylight). If repairs must becarried out outside, then ensure that thework area is not exposed to direct sunlight, inorder to prevent premature curing of theresin.

To conform to British Standards BS AU 242:1998 (Rev) repairs of more than 10 mm indiameter should not be carried out directly inthe area of the driver’s vision (zone A).

Always keep chemicals and electricalequipment away from children.

Only use genuine Esprit repair materialswith your repair kit. We cannot guaranteethe performance of non-genuine materials.

Technical support is based on the use ofgenuine Esprit repair materials andequipment only.

Since you will be working on alreadydamaged glass we cannot accept any liabilityfor replacement glass in the case of failure toeffect a repair.

© ALL CONTENTS OF THIS MANUAL ARE COPYRIGHT

Esprit Windscreen Systems LLP.

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2. About Windscreen Repairs

All the windscreen repair techniques detailedin this manual are for the repair of laminatedglass only. You do not need to determine if thewindscreen is laminated, if it is broken it mustbe laminated, the older toughened windscreendoes not chip; it shatters into thousands ofpieces. Although some of the crack fillingtechniques may be used on float glass or plateglass, the system is NOT designed for this typeof repair and we cannot give any advice orsupport for any such repairs.

What the repair will do is as follows.

It will restore the strength to the damagedglass. BS 251 1994 is the relevant Britishstandard for measuring the performance ofwindscreen repair equipment and copies areavailable from BSI if required. Thisequipment has passed BS AU 251:1994 andthe Australian / New Zealand standardAS/NZS 2366.2:1999.

Durability. Repairs are permanent and thevehicle can be washed or driven immediatelyafter repair.

Heated windscreens can be repaired in exactlythe same manner as unheated windscreens.

Tinted windscreens or tinted top band areascan be repaired in the same manner as plainwindscreens. The colour is in the butyl plasticinterlayer, not the glass. The glass picks up thecolour from the interlayer, and the repairresin will do exactly the same.

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Cosmetic improvement: Repairs willsignificantly restore the optical or cosmeticappearance. The size of the blemish left is afunction of the severity of the initial damage.

Heat Reflective (Athermic) windscreens mayshow the special coatings natural colour in anyareas of delamination, such as at the edge of abullseye impact.

3. PREPARATION: Bullseye & Starbreaks.(All systems)

Clean the work area by wiping with a cleancloth or paper wipe that has been moistenedwith glass cleaner. Do NOT spray glass cleanerdirectly onto the glass as this may contaminatethe break prior to the repair.

Smear a film of gel onto the suckers of theinspection mirror and fit the mirror onto theinside of the windscreen, immediately behindthe damaged area.

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In the centre of all damage is an impact pointwhere the stone hit the glass. This impactpoint is the natural injection point for therepair resin. It is possible that the impactpoint will be blocked with broken glass anddirt, which will restrict the flow of the resininto the break.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO CLEAN OUT THEIMPACT POINT AS FOLLOWS.

First of all, wear protective eyewear to preventany glass fragments from entering the eye.

All Systems:

Place a small 1mm drill burr (in the blue box)into the drill chuck and tighten.

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Hold the drill at 45 degrees to the glass andgrind out any dirt and loose glass from theimpact point

CAUTION >>

If the drill has a variable speed controller,select a slow speed in order to maximise thelife of the drill bur.

Hold the drill at 45 degrees tothe glass, using two hands. Ifyou slip, the drill burr willscratch the glass.

If you are using the 12-voltsystem, ensure that thebattery clips are connected upthe correct way. Red to+(positive) Black to -(negative).

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4. Warming the Glass.Warming the glass plays two important roles inwindscreen repairing:-

1. Improving the filling the damage.

2. Drying moisture out of a break beforestarting the repair.

The Esprit 12 volt heater can be powered byplugging it into the cigarette lighter socket of acar (ignition may need to be switched on),plugging into the socket on a jump start unit orby connecting to the terminals of a 12v batteryusing the Esprit crocodile clip adaptor (Partnumber UV3147D). If the lead is not longenough to reach the damaged area, pre heat theunit by plug in into a power source, hold downthe switch on the base of the unit (found underthe hinged flap) for 60 seconds then unplug theunit and take it to the work area

The red and green LED’s illuminate when theunit is connected to a 12 volt power supply. Theunit is fitted with a thermal cut out to preventoverheating. If the cut out activates, the red lightremains on but the green light is now off. Theunit will now start to cool down, when thetemperature drops by 15oC the thermal cut outwill automatically re-set and the green light willswitch on and the unit will start to heat upagain, thus maintaining a working temperature.

Time taken to warm the glass using the heaterunit from cold is about 60 seconds.Time taken to warm the glass when the unit isalready up to temperature is 15 to 20 seconds.

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1. Improving the filling of the damage.

Warming the inside of the windscreen (behindthe break) by about 15oC will make it easier toremove air from bullseyes and fill tight tips ofstar breaks.

Connect the unit to the power source and ensurethat the red light is on. Open the unit and hold itagainst the INSIDE of the windscreen with themetal disc behind the damaged area of glass.When held against the glass the on/off switchwill automatically be depressed and the unit willstart to warm up.

A local area temperature increase of 15 – 18oC issufficient. As a general rule, if the glass is toohot to touch with the back of your finger then itis too hot.

NOTE: Excess heating will allow excess heat totransfer to the outer layer of glass, causing thislayer to expand, closing up the damage, makingthe repair more difficult.

2. Drying out moisture.

If there is moisture in the damage then it needsto be dried out before starting the repairprocedure.

To dry out a break open the unit and follow theprocedure outlined above EXCEPT that the unitis held against the glass (over the damage) onthe OUTSIDE of the windscreen. Repeat theprocess as necessary, keeping the glass warm,until the damage is dry. This will take someminutes.

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5. Repair Bridge: Setting UpProcedure.

The process of windscreen repair is based onthe hydraulic injection of the repair resin intothe damaged area. The repair bridge is thedevice that holds the injector assembly tightonto the glass, creating a good seal betweenthe injector and the glass. It is important tocarry out this set up procedure correctly sincea poorly set injector will lead to leakage andsubsequently low quality repairing.

Set up: Classic & Compact ClassicSystems

A smear of sucker gel is placed onto the twosuckers.

There are three adjusting screws on the basicrepair bridge; No.1 is at the end of the longadjusting arm, No. 2 & 3 are a pair ofadjusting screws next to the threaded injectorholder.

All three screws must be wound back as far aspossible (Without pulling the protective capsoff the end).

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The repair bridge is placed on the glass withthe threaded hole over the damaged area andthe suckers are pressed down onto the glass.The long leg should be vertical, either straightup (as shown) or down.

The long leg (Screw 1) is held down onto theglass and at the SAME time, screws No. 2 & 3are screwed down until they just make contactwith the glass.

Screw No.1 is now screwed in, raising the longarm and tensioning the bridge. The long armof the bridge should be parallel to the surfaceof the glass to ensure that the injector is heldat 900 to the surface.

An injector barrel is screwed into the threadedhole and adjusted until the tip is 1 mm awayfrom the glass. By holding the repair bridge bythe sucker mounting points, the wholeassembly can now be moved until the impactpoint is immediately below the injector seal.

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The injector barrel can now be screwed downuntil the white rubber seal compresses againstthe glass. The injector must be screwed downuntil the adjusting screws No.2 & 3 are justlifted clear of the surface of the glass. (Justenough clearance to allow a piece of paper toslide between the glass and the protectivescrew cap.)

The final adjustment is to ensure that theinjector tip is at right angles (90 degrees) tothe glass. Adjust as required using screw 1.

Set Up: Elite & Compact Elite Systems.

The injector arm must be positioned so thatthe location marker on the arm is aligned withthe large central location marker on the body(There is one large location marker and twosmall location markers on the body of therepair bridge.

A smear of sucker gel is placed onto the singleblack sucker.

Raise the aluminum lever.

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The bridge is placed onto the glass with thethreaded injector holder over the damagedarea and the body pressed down onto theglass. (NOTE - The injector arm MUST bepointing either straight up, straight down oras close as possible to these positions.)

After pushing down on the body, push downthe aluminium lever, tensioning the repairbridge.

An injector barrel is screwed into the threadedhole until it is 1 mm away from the glass. Byholding the body of the bridge, it can bemoved into position if required, so that theimpact point is immediately under the centreof the injector seal.

Now screw the injector barrel down againstthe glass until the cut out at the top of theinjector thread will be flush with the top of thealuminium collar that the injector screws into,at this point one or both of the two frontsupport feet on the injector holder will havejust moved away from the glass surface. (Donot confuse the small feet on the injector headwith the larger support feet on the repairbridge body).

You are now set up and ready to start fillingthe damage with the resin. Proceed to eitherthe Bullseye section or the Star Break sectionas required.

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The Ultra Violet Shield

Windscreen Repair resin is cured by UltraViolet light (365nm). While resin with thiscuring wavelength can be used indoorswithout any problem, it is possible whenworking outdoors for daylight to lead topremature curing of the resin. To prevent thishappening we recommend covering the repairarea during the filling phase of the repairprocess. (It is not necessary to cover the repairduring the setup phase or during the UVcuring phase).

As part of our commitment to making therepair process easier we have designed a UVshield for use with the Elite repair bridge.

The Ultra Violet shield simply clips over theElite Trihead during the two three minutefilling periods thus preventing natural UVlight from curing the resin before the break iscompletely filled with UV resin.

The shield also prevents premature inspectionof the repair. Remember that the inspectionstage is after the second three-minute pressurecycle. Premature inspection leads tointerference that slows down the repairprocess.

After the second pressure cycle the shield issimply lifted clear and the repair is inspectedin the normal manner.

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6. Bullseye Filling:

This procedure applies to all systems unlessotherwise specified.

Set up the repair bridge and injector asdescribed in section 4.

Using the syringe and needle supplied,measure out 0.2 ml of the windscreen repairresin. Insert the needle tip no more than 5 mminto the nozzle of the bottle (See Photoopposite)

There are two different resins in the kit. Thepit fill resin is the thick resin, in the smallblack bottle and is used for the surfacefinishing. The windscreen repair resin is in thewhite bottle (or the large black bottle if the20ml or 50ml size is used).

Place the needle into the open end of theinjector barrel as far as possible and inject theresin into the injector tip.

(See the cleaning notes at the end of thissection on how to clean the syringe)

Take the plunger (piston) and screw it into theinjector barrel. As the plunger is screweddown, it will begin to compress the resin,building up pressure, forcing the resin into thebreak.

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It is IMPORTANT to understand when theinjector pressure has built up, insufficientpressure will result in an incomplete fill, butexcess pressure will cause the seal to blow out.(This blow out is the safety valve to preventover pressurising the damaged glass)

To tell when the system is pressurised, wemust observe the performance of the injectorseal by looking at it in the observation mirror.When the seal is at rest (no pressure) then thewhite rubber seal is compressed flat againstthe glass and the dark hole in the middle issmall, 2 to 3 mm in diameter. As the pressurebuilds up, the seal (looking in the mirror) canbe seen to expand and also to lift slightlyaway from the glass surface. As the sealexpands, the central hole will grow to 5 to 6-mm diameter. At 8 to 9-mm diameter you areover pressured and risk a blow out. If thishappens, re-set and start again.

When you have pressurised the system,WAIT 3 minutes. Give the resin time topenetrate into the break. (Protect the workarea from the Ultra Violet light present indaylight if working outdoors.)

The skills required at this stage are patienceand observation i.e. Watch and wait.

As the resin is forced into the damaged area,the air is displaced leading to the visualimprovement.

When the break has been under pressure for3 minutes and the resin seems to havestopped moving, then the piston is unscrewed

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about 10 mm, until the thread becomesvisible. This will introduce suction on thebackstroke, drawing any remaining air out ofthe damage.

Warm the glass immediately behind thedamage. Warm; NOT HOT – you should beable to touch the glass with the back of yourfinger without any discomfort (see page 9).

NOTE: Advanced users. If you are confidentthat the break has filled with resin then thewarming process can be omitted.

Then repeat the 3 minute pressure cyclefollowed by 30 seconds pressure off

Now inspect the damage, looking for areas ofair remaining in the damage. (See thediagram opposite) If this is the case thenrepeat the pressure / wait / vacuum cycleuntil all the air is removed from the break.

Final Inspection: At this point of the repairprocess, you are not yet committed to thefinished process. The point of no return iswhen the ultra violet light is placed over therepair, curing the resin. Due to this, the finalinspection is the most important of the visualinspections.

To make the final inspection, the repairbridge must be moved away from the repairarea to give an uninterrupted view of therepair.

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Moving the Repair Bridge forbetter inspection.(Elite & Compact Elite Systems)

Unscrew the plunger to release the pressure.Carefully move the long arm that holds theinjector to one side, so that the locationmarker on the arm is aligned with one of thesmaller location markers on the body.

There is a small tab mounted on the front ofthe injector holder. Lifting this whilemoving the arm to one side will takepressure off the injector seal, reducing thepossibility of damage to the seal as it movesover the impact point.

Caution: DO NOT lift the tab too far orresin may leak from the injector. If resinleaks and there are still unfilled areas of therepair, you may need to add a smallquantity of resin to the injector prior tocontinuing with the repair.

Wipe away any excess resin and inspect thebreak. After inspection, swing the injectorunit back into position over the damage,realigning the location markers, and reapply the pressure.

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(Classic & Compact ClassicSystems)

Unscrew the plunger, releasing the pressure.Hold the repair bridge by the suckermounting points and slide the bridge away.Wipe the area clean and inspect. Afterinspection, slide the bridge back intoposition, and re apply the pressure.

After inspection.

If there is still air in the break DO NOTapply the ultra violet light. Repeat 3 minutesunder pressure and repeat warming theglass on the inside of the windscreen. (Readthe section on Troubleshooting in thismanual for alternative strategies oneffecting the repair.)

To finish the repair first cut a small squareof the UV curing film. Then move theinjector away from the repair and wipeaway any excess resin with a cloth.

Lift one edge of the plastic and put a smalldrop of pit fill resin over the impact crater,making sure that no air bubbles are trappedin the centre. Let the plastic sheet fall backinto position (do not press it down) and curethe resin with the UV light.

Moisten the suckers on the UV lamp andpress it onto the glass immediately over therepair area. Switch the lamp on and leave itfor a minimum of five minutes.

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After curing, remove the lamp by rocking itsideways to release the suckers. Remove thepiece of plastic film. There should now be ahard piece of cured resin over the impactpoint, this will have to be shaved back flushto the glass surface.

Take a single sided razor blade and insert itinto the holder.(Caution: They are verysharp). Holding it upright (90 degrees tothe glass) move it backwards and forwardsover the pit fill resin, shaving it back. Do notcut the excess resin off with the blade at anangle to the glass as this does not leave asgood a finish.

Finally polish the repaired area using the pitfill polish and a piece of very soft polishingcloth to put the final shine on the pit fillarea.

The repair is now complete. Clean anymarks from the glass using ordinary glasscleaner. The vehicle can now be washed ordriven as required without any furtherwaiting.

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Cleaning the Equipment

At this point the Repair Bridge and mirrormust be cleaned, ready for the next repair.The excess gel should be wiped off thesuckers.

IMPORTANT

The injector assembly should be removedand separated into its two components. Eachpart should be wiped dry and the whiterubber seal inspected. If the seal is badlydistorted or damaged, it should be replacedwith a new seal or injector as it will mostprobably leak the next time it is used. If it isin good condition then the two componentsmust be kept separated until the next timethey are required. Failure to clean out theinjector can result in old / dirty resinremaining inside the injector barrel whichwill compromise the next repair.

Clean the syringe by simply moving thepiston up and down, pushing out anyremaining resin. Then break it down intothree separate components, patting away anyexcess resin before storing the separatedcomponents. Following this procedure willallow the syringe to be re-used.

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7. Star Break: Filling (All systems)

This procedure applies to all systems unlessotherwise specified.

Set up the repair bridge and injector asdescribed in section 4.

Using the syringe and needle supplied,measure out 0.2 ml of the windscreen repairresin.

There are two different resins in the kit. Thepit fill resin is the thick resin, in the smallblack bottle and is used for the surfacefinishing. The windscreen repair resin is inthe white bottle (or the large black bottle ifthe 20ml or 50ml size is used).

Place the needle into the open end of theinjector barrel as far as possible and injectthe resin into the injector tip.

Take the plunger (piston) and screw it intothe injector barrel. As the plunger is screweddown, it will begin to compress the resin,building up pressure, forcing the resin intothe break.

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It is IMPORTANT to understand when theinjector pressure has built up, insufficientpressure will result in an incomplete fill, butexcess pressure will cause the seal to blowout. (This blow out is the safety valve toprevent over pressurising the damaged glass)

To tell when the system is pressurised, wemust observe the performance of the injectorseal by looking at it in the observationmirror.

When the seal is at rest (no pressure) then thewhite rubber seal is compressed flat againstthe glass and the dark hole in the middle issmall, 2 to 3 mm in diameter. As the pressurebuilds up, the seal (looking in the mirror) canbe seen to expand and also to lift slightlyaway from the glass surface. As the sealexpands, the central hole will grow to 5 to 6-mm diameter. At 8 to 9-mm diameter you areover pressured and risk a blow out. If thishappens, re-set and start again.

When you have pressurised the system,WAIT 3 minutes. Give the resin time topenetrate into the break.

The skills required at this stage are patienceand observation i.e. Watch and wait.

As the resin is forced into the damaged area,the air is displaced leading to the visualimprovement.When the break has been under pressure for3 minutes and the resin seems to havestopped moving, then the piston is unscrewedabout 10 mm, until the thread becomes

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visible. This will introduce suction on thebackstroke, drawing more air out of thedamage.

Warm the glass immediately behind thedamage. (Warm; NOT HOT – you should beable to touch the glass with the back of yourfinger without any discomfort.).

Then repeat the 3 minute pressure cyclefollowed by 30 seconds pressure off

Now inspect the damage, looking for areas ofair remaining in the damage. (See thediagram opposite). If this is the case thenrepeat the pressure / wait / vacuum cycleuntil all the air is removed from the break.

Final Inspection: At this point of the repairprocess, you are not yet committed to thefinished process. The point of no return iswhen the ultra violet light is placed over therepair, curing the resin. Due to this, the finalinspection is the most important of the visualinspections.

To make the final inspection, the repairbridge must be moved away from the repairarea to give an uninterrupted view of therepair.

The main areas of difference are asfollows: -

A) The star break is relatively tightcompared to the Bullseye and WILL beslower filling. They need more time to let theresin flow into the cracks.

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B) Inspection: We are again looking fortrapped air, in a star break it will usually beat the end of some of the legs of the star.

IMPORTANT: There is also a correct way toview the damage in order to assess the degreeof resin penetration. Uncured or wet resin isnot as clear as glass. When the resin is curedits refractive index changes to match that ofthe glass.

We must judge the break with the resin in itsliquid state. To do this you must look at eachleg of the star break separately, lookingacross each break from the side and at a lowangle. I.e. A break running north south mustbe viewed from east or west and a low angle20 to 30 degrees above the glass, not fromabove (90 degrees to the glass).

If the damage is invisible or disappears whenviewed in the correct manner, then the resin isready for curing. If part of the damage stillshines at you when correctly viewed (usuallythe tips of the break) then the damage is notcompletely filled so DO NOT cure it. Repeatthe filling process as described on pages 11 &12. For damage, which will not fill in thenormal manner, go to the Troubleshootingsection on page 35 for help.

To finish the repair first cut a small square ofthe UV curing film. Then move the injectoraway from the repair and wipe away anyexcess resin with a cloth.

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Place the square of UV film over the repairand then lift one edge of the plastic and put asmall drop of pit fill resin over the impactcrater, making sure that no air bubbles aretrapped in the centre. Let the plastic sheetfall back into position (do not press it down)

Cure the resin with the UV light for a further5 minutes.

When the pit fill resin is cured shave off theexcess resin by taking a single sided razorblade (Caution: They are very sharp) andholding it upright (90 degrees to the glass)move it backwards and forwards over the pitfill resin, shaving it back. Do not cut theexcess resin off with the blade at an angle tothe glass, as it does not leave as good a finish.

Finally polish the repaired area using the pitfill polish and a piece of very soft polishingcloth to put the final shine on the pit fill area.

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The repair is now complete. Clean any marksfrom the glass using ordinary glass cleaner.The vehicle can now be washed or driven asrequired without any further waiting.

Cleaning the Equipment

At this point the Repair Bridge and mirrormust be cleaned, ready for the next repair.The excess gel should be wiped off the suckers.

IMPORTANT

The injector assembly should be removed andseparated into its two components. Each partshould be wiped dry and the white rubber sealinspected. If the seal is badly distorted ordamaged, it should be replaced with a newseal, as it will most probably leak the next timeit is used. If it is in good condition then the twocomponents must be kept separated until thenext time they are required. Failure to cleanout the injector can result in old / dirty resinremaining inside the injector barrel which willcompromise the next repair.

Clean the syringe by simply moving the pistonup and down, pushing out any remainingresin. Then break it down into three separatecomponents, patting away any excess resinbefore storing the separated components.Following this procedure will allow the syringeto be re-used.

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8. Crack Repairs: Up to 150 mm.(All Systems)

Cut a sheet of the plastic curing film 25 mmwide and long enough to cover the crack. If thecrack is longer than the film, then use severaloverlapping strips. Place the film over thecrack and smooth it down, removing any airpockets from beneath it.

Assemble a syringe and needle and extract 0.2mm of the windscreen repair resin from thebottle (white bottle).

The correct filling technique is to work fromthe end of the crack (i.e. that part of the cracknearest the centre of the windscreen)outwards, using capillary action to draw theresin into the crack. A small spot of resin isplaced under the plastic sheet, immediatelyover the end of the crack and allowed to soakinto the crack (See troubleshooting section forhelp if required.)

Note: On vertical cracks it is easier to fill fromthe lowest point on the crack and work upwards.

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Continue to fill the crack, putting anothersmall spot of resin over the end of the filledpart of the crack and allow to penetrate.Repeat the process until the crack iscompletely filled. NOTE. Do not put a singlebead of resin along the crack as this may trapair in the crack. Slowly, apply spots of resin,which you will observe filling the crack aheadof the resin application.

Example: If the crack runs across the glass inan east west direction, it must be viewedalong the north south axis with your head 6inches (15 cm.) above the glass. It will now bevery obvious where the resin has penetratedinto the crack as this portion will disappear,the unfilled portion will still shine.

When viewing the crack from directly above(900 to the glass) you will not be able todifferentiate between the filled and unfilledportions of the crack (See picture 1 opposite)

Note: When windscreen repair resin is liquid,it is not as clear as glass. (When cured itbecomes as clear as glass.) In order to view theresin flowing into the crack, the correctviewing technique must be used.

This is done by viewing the crack at rightangles to its direction of travel and at a shallowangle. (See picture 2 opposite)

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When the crack is full cure the resin.

Place the ultra violet lamp over the crack,switch on, and leave for five minutes.

After curing, remove the plastic curing filmand scrape off the excess resin using therazor blade supplied.

Polish with pit fill polish. Finally, clean withglass cleaner.

A crack that was free from dirtcontamination will now be almost invisibleshowing as a faint hairline. Cracks with dirtcontamination will be more visible afterrepair, as it is impossible to remove the dirtprior to the repair and will show as a dirtyline after repair. For this reason all crackmust be repaired as soon as possible.

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9. Long Crack Repairs (150 to 350 mm)(Elite System)

Long cracks are still end drilled for extrastability. This is done, using the morepowerful drill and supplied in the Elite &Classic systems (Not the compact range). Thefilling process is the same as for the shortcrack.

The first thing to do is to mark the correctposition for the drill hole. This should be 3mm to 5 mm beyond the end of the crack,directly in the line of travel of the crack andon the same side of the glass as the crack(Usually, but not always, the outside layer ofthe windscreen.). Having identified thecorrect position, mark it and make acountersink hole for the drilling process atthis point.

To make the countersink, put a small drillbur (AD010 blue box) into the drill chuckand tighten the drill chuck. Set the drill speedto setting 1 (Slow). Hold the drill firmly at anangle of about 45 degrees to the glass andbring the drill head down slowly until it juststarts to cut the surface creating acountersink hole.

CAUTION: Do not let the drill slip in use, as itwill result in scratches to the glass.Having produced a location point, we can nowdrill down into the glass (still using the smallbur) by holding the drill at 90 degrees to theglass and applying a light pressure, drilling in3 to 5 second bursts, lifting the drill outregularly to clear out the hole.

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Repeat this process until the hole is close to butnot touching the PVB interlayer.

It is important not to penetrate the PVBinterlayer.

Note: For guidance on how deep you can drillyou should note that the depth of the crack youare repairing is from the glass surface down tothe PVB interlayer. This is a visual referencepoint that can be used as a guide in order tojudge the correct depth of the drill hole.

Change drill burs to the large bur (AD016yellow box) and enlarge the hole to the samedepth.

This will leave a thin layer of glass at thebottom of the drill hole. We will now make asmall Bullseye at this point, taking the drillhole down to the polyvinyl interlayer withoutpenetrating it.

To do this, insert the thin end of the slim crackstop punch into the drill hole and hold it inposition. Strike the end of the punch firmlybut gently with the handle of the steel probe.

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You should see a small Bullseye appear at thebottom of the drill hole.

If after three attempts, there is no Bullseye,DO NOT use more force. Drill the hole out alittle more and repeat the process.

The Bullseye must now be filled by carryingout a Bullseye repair as previously described,injecting resin into the Bullseye, topping offwith pit fill resin and covering with plasticfilm. Do not cure the resin at this stage; waituntil the entire crack has been filled.

The crack can now be filled as described in theshort crack repair section on page 19. (Fill theentire crack in one session and cure by movingthe UV light along every five minutes, movingthe lamp along as necessary.)

After curing, remove the plastic sheet andshave off the excess resin. Polish with pit fillpolish and clean with glass cleaner.

Note: Cracks longer than 350 mm can berepaired at the operator’s discretion.

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10. Troubleshooting.

Bullseyes:

Problem: There is air still trapped in the Bullseye.Answer: There are a number of alternative steps that can be taken ifthe standard air removal technique does not work. Try these in theorder that they are given.

A) With the pressure on, apply gentle heat to the inside of thewindscreen behind the damage and allow the resin to soak into thedamage. DO NOT get the glass hot! When felt with the BACK of yourfinger, the area heated should be just warmer than the surroundingglass. The Esprit 12v heater unit is the ideal tool for this job. Heatguns can have a high heat output and must be used with great care.( naked flames such as cigarette lighters are not recommended.)As this process reduces the amount of trapped air, it can be repeatedas necessary when the glass cools down.

Note: The warmer the glass is, the more pronounced the ringsurrounding the original damage would be. Avoid excess heating.

B) It is possible that the impact point is still obstructed,restricting the flow of resin into the break and the removal of the air.Move the injector to one side and drill down into the impact point alittle further. DO NOT PENETRATE INTO THE PVBINTERLAYER.

C) The air disappears when pressure is applied, but reappearswhen the pressure is removed. To overcome this problem, the resinshould be cured under pressure. Keep the injector plunger screweddown and hold the lamp as close as possible to the repair (normally at45 degree angle) and cure for three minutes from the left side andthree minutes from the right side of the repair. Then apply the pit fillresin, cure, and finish the repair in the normal manner.

Problem: There is a faint ring mark around the finished repair.Answer: This can be seen in some repairs where the initial impact haspushed the polyvinyl interlayer down, tearing it away from the

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surrounding glass. The interlayer material has a slightly differentrefractive index to the glass. The refractive index of the resin ismatched to the glass, so that when the resin is injected into thedamaged area, it will fill this tear area and show up as a faintboundary ring.

Problem: A Bullseye with a crack running out from it.Answer: Fill the Bullseye in the normal manner. A short crack maywell fill at the same time as the bullseye. See page 19 for the note onhow to view a crack in order to judge if it has filled. If both thebullseye and crack have filled, finish the repair in the norm; manner.If the crack has not filled, then fill the remaining crack as normalcrack repair and now cure the complete repair area.

Star Breaks:

Star breaks are tight compared to Bullseyes and will be slower filling.If the resin does not penetrate into the ends of the legs of the damagethen the three steps outlined above for removing the air from aBullseye will work in the same manner. Always allow more time forthe resin to penetrate into the damage. Never press the damage fromthe inside of the windscreen as this can lead to the cracks spreading.

If the star break fills perfectly but when you remove the repair bridgethe tension in the glass closes the tips of the star, pushing out resin(creating a sparkle at the ends of the cracks) then replace the repairbridge, refill the break and cure under pressure. This process iscovered on page 35 under Bullseye air removal techniques.

All Breaks:

Problem: There is an air bubble in the pit fill resin after curing.Answer: Drill out the pit fill resin and repeat the pit fill process. If thisproblem persists, try warming the pit fill resin before use.

Problem: There is a milky appearance in the repair.Answer: Old damage, which has been exposed to moisture for aperiod of time, may result in the polyvinyl interlayer turning opaque.This is a permanent change and cannot be corrected. It should be

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possible to see this discolouration in the repair before you start byviewing the damage from the inside of the vehicle looking through thedamage to a darker background outside the vehicle.

Problem: You have finished the repair and there is still air in it.Answer: Although remedial action may be possible, it is better to getthe repair correct the first time. Always give a critical inspection(pressure off) before curing. It is possible to drill directly into theoffending air pocket and fill it in the normal manner. If the air pocketto be removed is larger than the mark left by the extra drill hole, thenit is worth doing. If there are many small but separate pockets of air,then remedial action is not recommended.

Problem: The impact crater is larger than the injector seal.Answer: Repair is not recommended. Damage with an impact craterof greater than 5mm is not considered repairable under BS AU 242a1998 (Automotive windscreen repair – code of practice)

Problem: The Resin will not penetrate the crack.Answer. On curved screens there may be tension pushing the sides ofthe crack together causing a resistance to resin penetration. If this isthe case then set up the repair bridge with the injector over the crackand pressure feed resin into the difficult portion of the crack.

Note: Delamination. Sometimes, moisture will have penetrated thedamage and separated the interlayer from the glass around the originaldamage. When resin is injected into the damage, it will also flow into thedelaminated area. After curing this will show up as an uneventransparent line at the boundary of the delamination. This is oftenreferred to as looking like the outline of a flower or daisy pattern.

This is unavoidable and is the main reason why damage should alwaysbe repaired as soon as possible after occurrence.© ALL CONTENTS OF THIS MANUAL ARE COPYRIGHT Esprit Windscreen Systems LLP

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11. Parts List

All spare parts for your Esprit system, however small, areavailable.

Resin ProductsUV5AF 5ml resin only. (Approx 20-25 average

repairs)UV20AF 20ml resin only. (Approx 80-100 average

repairs)UVS01AF Pit fill resin (5ml) for filling surface chips.

* The Esprit resin has passed BS AU 251:1994 Class A - allcategories & Australia / New Zealand standard AS/NZ2366.2:1999 CatA

Repair Sundries

BDSEAL Seal for injector set. (Black Injectors).BS0013 Gel. Water based gel for jig suckers.SA001 Pit fill polish.

SS0017 Razor blades, box of 10.EM0018 Packet of plastic curing film. (UV clear)

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Drilling Equipment

AD0010 Tungsten drill bur 0.010 tip (blue box)AD0016 Tungsten drill bur 0.016 tip ( yellow box)

Repair tools and equipment.

ESELBR Elite repair bridgeADR001 Probe. Straight probe for chip cleaning

(Hard Steel)ADPUNCH Tungsten tipped crack stop punch 0.009 tipESLEDW LED inspection torch.

U.V. Lamps & spares

ESLMPTB Tube for Esprit UV lamp (Suits all voltages)