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Nora B. MangalindanChief, Science Research SpecialistPhilippine Textile Research InstituteDepartment of Science and Technology

Philippine- Agriculture

The Philippines is an agricultural country with a land area of 30 million hectares (300, 000 km2 ), 47% of which is agricultural land

Source: FAO of the United Nations, 20102Agriculture - Economy

Service SectorSource: Data from the National Statistical Coordination Board, 1946-2012 Industrial SectorAgricultural SectorThree sectors of production supports a countrys economic growth. These are services (e.g. BPO), industry (e.g. silicon, food, manufacturing etc.) and agriculture (crop, livestock, fishery etc.). GDP is also calculated in terms of expenditures as measured through household and government consumption, investments and net exports. In short it is the sum of all goods and services produced by a country in a given period.

From 1946 to 1969, agriculture accounted for 20 to 30 percent of GDP, services 42 to 47 percent, and industry 22 to 35 percent. But these days, the sectors' respective contributions to economic growth seem to have turned lopsided. In the particular case of agriculture, its GDP share since 1970 has never gone beyond 20 percent, while services and industry have come to account for 41 to 56 percent and 35 to 40 percentof output, respectively, according to government data. Meanwhile, agriculture's contribution to the economy has continued to dwindle, down to 11.06 percent of GDP last year.

However despite decreased share of agriculture in GDP the contribution is still significant which is about 30% of the total employment profile of the country.

3Agriculture- Employment

Percent Distribution of Employed Persons by Major Industry Group: 2012The National Statistics Office noted that over 1.15 million Filipinos were employed in agriculture as of January 2013, the 2nd largest number of people employed in a sector next to the 2.05 million employed in servicesHowever people who make a living from agriculture are among the poorest in country, according to latest figures from the National Statiscal Coordination Board

4Agriculture- Exports

Agricultural exports earnings in 2011 made up the 9.62 % of the countrys total export earnings of $51.9 billion for the year, reaching up to $5.4 billion.

*Source: Bureau of Agricultural StatisticsThe National Economic Development Authority (NEDA) believes the growth of agriculture exports may be sustained with the opening up of new markets for sugar and bananas. NEDA deputy director general Emmanuel Esguerra said the Philippines could take advantage of the demand in the United States (US), Russia, China, Korea, Indonesia, Malaysia, and India, which are among the major importers of raw (cane) sugar. Esguerra noted that the exportation of bananas to the US market is also a good development for Philippine agriculture exports. An initial shipment of 3,000 metric tons to the US was targeted for April 2013, according to the Bureau of Plant Industry (BPI). The National Statistics Office (NSO) reported that exports of centrifugal and refined sugar and bananas grew by 27,094.6 percent and 95.5 percent year-on-year in February 2013, respectively. This made total agro-based exports rise by 43.7 percent, amounting to $343.9 million in February 2013

The NEDA official stressed that to be able to take advantage of increasing regional and global integration, there is a need to expedite the implementation of necessary programs and policies to improve the competitiveness of Philippine exports5Agriculture Natural FibersLess than 1% of the total agricultural export of the country is Natural Fiber

Abaca (Manila hemp) is the forefront natural fiber of the Philippines in terms of demand (local and international) and production followed by coir fibers from coconut. Other natural fibers accounts for the remaining 1% of the 2012 annual commercial fiber production26 % Coir fibers

Annual Productions (Baling) of Philippine Commercial Fibers1 % Others

*Source: Fiber Industry Development Authority (FIDA), Fiber StatisticsThe promotion of the use of natural bres as CO2 neutral resource is believed to contribute to a greener planet. The transition towards a bio-based economy and sustainable developments as a consequence of the Kyoto protocols on greenhouse gas reduction and CO2 neutral production offers high perspectives for natural bre markets worldwide.

Natural bres can be de ned as bio-based bres or bres from vegetable and animal origin (table 1). This de nition includes all natural cellulosic bres (cotton, jute, sisal, coir, ax, hemp, abaca, ramie, etc.) and protein based bres such as wool and silk. 6

Natural Fibers- Applications

- ropes and nets - brushes, carpets and mats mattresses paper and board yarns, fabrics and textile materials

The long bers are transformed to threads or yarns that are used to join, connect or attach to form bonds, networks or weavesThe ber and textiles industries are among the most labor intensive sectors and therefore stimulate the industrialisation in cheap labor countries. Textiles production is often a major economic output for these countries. However, in many of the less developed countries the ber and textile sectors are still poorly developed, but offer perspective for socio-economic development. This development should be sustainable and therefore not at the expense of the environment or exploiting workers. In the value addition chain of ber crop production and supply to markets various environmental impacts can be distinguished. The impact factor on the environment is related to the production volumes of bre products and the size of the end-use market. 7

Natural Fibers- Textile

eco-friendly fabrics are made by incorporating natural fibers derived from pia leaves, abaca fibers, banana trunks, jute stalks and raw silk cocoonMost notable of these fabrics (e.g. pina-silk) are handwoven materials which entails labor intensive input to achieve desired qualityPhilippine indigenous fiberspia, abaca, bananais recently introduce to worlds high-end fashion trade shows and via renowned international (new york- based) designer including Oliver Tolentino, Dita Sandico-Ong and Anthony Cruz-Legarda to name a few. While other Asian countries have similar offerings with similar applications of the materials, it is the creativity of the designs of Filipinos that set their products apart. Somehow, the fact that the process is tedious has made handwoven products from local fibers sort of exclusive. Wedding gown made from pia fabrics is the single best-selling product of these fiber-based products.8

Zamboanga/BasilanSeputangan

IfugaoIkat

Ilocos/AbraBinakel

KalingaGilamatMountain ProvinceBayaong

South CotabatoTnalak

SamarBanig

IlocosAbel

Ilo-iloHablon

Abel IlokoWarp: cottonWeft: cotton +pineaple fiberHablonWarp: cottonWeft: cotton

TnalakWarp: cottonWeft: cotton + abacaHand weaving -Philippines

A tradition passed from generation after generation

An indigenous Filipino art, showcasing culture from different Philippines ethnic groups

Good source of secondary income for their families

local business leaders and village elders worry that handweavers like her are a vanishing breed, and are thus scrambling to find ways to revitalise the industry.

Its not that people are buying less and less handwoven materials, says Mario Gasser, president of the Vigan Chamber of Commerce. Its because less people are weaving. As a labour- intensive enterprise, there seems to be a problem in ensuring that the skill is passed on from one generation to the next.

Indeed, townsfolk here say young people seem uninterested in learning the art of weaving and are more keen to land jobs in offices or factories, preferably in the cities. A chronic lack of capital meanwhile bedevils the women who want to expand their business, and discourages others from considering the craft as a source of added income.

Thus efforts continue to emanate not only from local government, for example abel Iloko , or Ilocano woven cloth, will be used for the uniforms of public school teachers, students and provincial government personnel in line with this years celebration of the centennial of the Philippine declaration of independence. In Abra, the handwoven products have become highlights in trade exhibits and fashion shows staged in part by famed Manila-based fashion designer Patis Tesoro.11Types of Hand LoomsThe frame is consists of warp stick and cloth stick

The warp stick is attached to a stationary pole and the cloth stick is joined to a backstrap around the waist of the weaver

The tension is controlled by the forward and backward movement of the body

Production is slow averaging at 1-2 yards per day

Backstrap Loom

Will put picture of backstrap loom with designs it creates from Samay12Types of Hand LoomsConventional loom designed with warp, cloth, back and breast beam

Uses counterweight shredding mechanism which has been improved that led to the development of jack-type loom

Upright or Floor LoomIlocano-type Loom

Types of Hand LoomsA counterbalance loom which does not have a breast beam

The distance between the front beam and the back beam is longer than what is typical from the ilocano-type loom

The beater and the harness can be pushed backward to accommodate long woven fabrics

Upright or Floor LoomVisayan-type Loom

Types of Hand LoomsAutomatic action of the harness or shaft is controlled by pressing the pedal with the feet

Depending on the design, some unevenness in the height of the shed occurs with the warp line higher than the raise board

It is limited to four harnesses and recommended for fabric wider than 40 inches

Upright or Floor Loom-Counter balance Loom

Types of Hand LoomsThe jack-type loom is a rising shed loom on which any number of harnesses may be raised without affecting the height of the shed

Each harness functions independently; when one set of harness is raised, the other remains stationary and the warp line is at the bottom of the reed touching the raise board.

Upright or Floor Loom-Jack-type loom*Source: www.pacificwoolandfiber.com

Types of Hand LoomsThe harness is operated independently as in the jack-type loom

It does not only lift the harnesses for a particular shed but also forces down those harnesses giving a large and clear shed for the weft to pass through

It has two sets of lamms one above the other, which permit the combined raising and lowering actions of the harnesses

Upright or Floor Loom-Countermarch loom

Types of Hand LoomsCan hold a maximum of 18 harnesses and has two treadles, one for creating a shed and another for the movement of the dobby bars

Shedding action is controlled by dobby mechanism which contains a chain of bars. Each bar has inserted pegs that select shafts to be raised

Geometric patterns are normally executed on this loom

Upright or Floor Loom-Dobby loom

Types of Hand LoomsIs widely used in Korea, India and Japan but is not yet available in the Philippines

A cord connects a metal needle to each heddle, where the warp yarns are threaded through.

A series of cards are punched with holes in a preordained pattern arranged in sequence and laced together to pass through the machine

Upright or Floor Loom-Jacquard loom

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ypE4ZJF7qYTypes of Hand LoomsModified backstrap loom transforming rods to two-harness counterbalance loom with additional four harnesses for the pattern

Production of Abras binakel and pinilian through conventional backstrap loom found their way to upright loom by the weavers in Ilocos Sur

The pinilian on backstrap loom with 8 to 32 rods was simulated on a 2-harness counterbalance loom. Wider fabric (36 inches) in less time is thus produced.

Modified looms developed inRegions- Central Cordillera

PTRI- Intervention

The production of handwoven fabrics through the traditional backstrap and two-harness looms is labor intensive. Thus the production of intricate weaving patterns is not economically feasible. One possible way to address this concern is to increase productivity through the use of multi-harness looms like the ones available in PTRI

PTRI aid in building the gap between the old and the new generations of handloom weaving infusing ethnicity and contemporary fashion through the development of ethic patterns from synthetic and natural fiber blends on multi-harness handloom equipment. 21PTRI- Intervention

PTRI- InterventionDyeing technology coursesDyeing of natural and synthetic yarns/fabricsHands-on workshop on techniques in dyeing natural/indigenous materialsTraining on pretreatment processes, dye classifcation and color matching

Extraction and application of natural dyesHands-on training and lecture on the extraction of dyes from indigenous plant sources and their application to fibers/yarns/fabrics including pretreatment prcesses

Will add training pictures and picture of designs developed.. Will ask from TSD23PTRI- InterventionBasic handloom weavingHands-on worshop on the dressing and operation of a handloom and actual weaving of basic designExecution of different designs in a handloom of more than 2 harnesses

Spinning technologyIncludes an overview of textile production quality control on materials and products ad hands-on in spinning process

Development of weave designServe as refenrece for a more aesthetic and value added premium to the fabrics for weavers, yarn manufacturers, fabric designers and garment technologistsPTRI Interventions

Challenge