Personal Care Overview Oleon : A NATURAL CHEMISTRY.

Personal Care Overview

Oleon: A NATURAL CHEMISTRY

BiotechnologiesSeeds

PesticidesOther services for agriculture Growers

Collect of oilseeds and protein rich seeds

Crushing

Oils

Food

Renewable energies

Renewable chemicals

Oil cake

Animal health and breeding

Animal nutrition

Breeders Transformation and animal productions

Growers and breeders

Oilseeds division

Food and animal sector division

Other Agricultural industries with Sofiprotéol concern

1. Oleon Company

2. Product Overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers

5. Isostearic Esters

6. Formulations

OleonOleon is a leading company in Europe for

the production of chemicals based on Natural OilsNatural Oils.

Oleon is a subsidiary of the SofiproteolSofiproteol group, Europe’s reference for vegetable oil with activities in food, feed, biofuels and oleochemistry.

Oleon has production sites in

- Belgium (Ertvelde and Oelegem)- Germany (Emmerich)- France (Compiègne)- Norway (Sandefjord)

In 2009 Oleon started Producing natural esters in Malaysia (Port Klang)

1. Oleon Company

2. Product overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


6. Formulations

RawRaw MaterialsMaterialsRapeseed, Sunflower, Palm, Coconut, Soya, PKO, Linseed, Castor…

1. Oleon Company

2. Product Overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


6. Formulations

ApplicationsApplicationsSoap, detergents, Personal Care, Lubricants, Food, …

OleochemicalsOleochemicals are esters, fatty acids, glycerol..

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/99/Ester-skeletal.png

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6c/Glycerine_chemical_structure.png

1. W/O Properties

2. Product Overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


5. Formulations

•Fatty acids (Radiacid)

•Glycerine, Propylene Glycol

•Radia esters based on PEG,(Poly)glycerol, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, sorbitol, …

•Emulsifiers •Emollients•Stabilizers•Opacifying •Bodying agents•…

PEG

Fatty AcidsFatty alcohols

(Poly)glycerol

Poly

ols

Isostearic

Pentaerythritol

Isoa

myl

Sorb

itol

Radia Esters building blocks

1. W/O Properties

1. Product Overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


5. Formulations

•HLB was invented 60 years ago by William C. Griffin

•The letters HLB stand for Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance

•It was intended as a large scale road map to good emulsification performance.

•It was invented for use with NONIONIC surfactants in particular.

Hydrophilic head Lipophilic tail

1. Oleon Company

2. Product overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


6. Formulations

• mixing unlike oils together–use surfactants with HLB’s of 1 to 3

• making water-in-oil emulsions–use surfactants with HLB’s of 4 to 6

• wetting powders into oils–use surfactants with HLB’s of 7 to 9

• making self emulsifying oils–use surfactants with HLB’s of 7 to 10

• making oil-in-water emulsions–use surfactant blends with HLB’s of 8 to 16

• making detergent solutions–use surfactants with HLB’s of 13 to 15

• for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water–use surfactant blends with HLB’s of 13 to 18

2. Oleon Company

2. Product Overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


6. Formulations

R7908: Glyceryl Monolaurate 90%

• Our technology has lead to a monoglyceride %> 90%.

• (Co)Emulsifier with HLB of ± 5.0 and super emollient with enhanced skin feel.

• Antibacterial properties; good performance on yeasts,moulds and gram +. Addition of a good chelant (EDTA) can increase the performance on gram -.

• Viscosity increasing in surfactant systems as hydrophobic thickener where combinations with eg CAPB are made.

• Potential of penetration enhancer of active ingredients.

1. Oleon Company

2. Product Overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


6. Formulations

1

10

100

1000

10000

MIC

(µ

g/m

l)

GMLButyl ParabenSorbic Acid

Antibacterial Properties of GML

1. W/O Properties

1. Product Overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


6. Formulations

PEG free & solid O/W emulsifierSelf emulsifying

Radiamuls 2932Radiamuls 2932

•HLB of 10-12

•INCI: GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE

•Gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance

• Synergy with Radia 7145 (Sorbitan Stearate)

•Formation of gel network in water phase•The natural skin moisture barrier is mimicked•Improved moisturizing performance of O/W emulsion•Enhanced stability of emulsion•Skin pleasant rheological profile

1. Oleon Company

2. Product overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


6. Formulations

Anionic,PEG free & solid O/W emulsifierMulti functional

Radiamuls 2990Radiamuls 2990

• HLB of 16.

•INCI: Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

• Skin conditioning and moisturizing

• white fluffy powder

• light emulsions rich in water

•Can also act as a foam booster in cleansing formulations

1. Oleon Company

2. Product overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


6. Formulations

Stability, no antioxydant neededSaturated Products

Lower melting point comparedto straight-chain analoguesNo crystallization

Non greasy afterfeel, lipid film more substantive,Soft on the skin and glossy aprearance,

Excellent emolliencyBranched products

Cold emulsion process & easy to handleImportant for heat sensitive products

included in high demanding formulationsLiquid products

Main products derived from oleic acid can be replaced by the corresponding isostearic derivatives without loss of performance.

2. Oleon Company

2. Product Overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


6. Formulations

Product Range (INCI) Radia

•Isostearic Acid 908 / 909

•Neopentylglycol Diisostearate 7687

•Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate 7179

•Triisostearin 7373

•Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate 7380

•Isopropyl Isostearate 7739

•Sorbitan isostearate 7758

1. Oleon Company

2. Product Overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


6. Formulations

Radia 7373Radia 7373

Good substantive, rich and non tacky feel emollient

•INCI: Triisostearin

•Functions as dispersant & adhesion promotor of pigments. As solubilizer for active ingredients.

•Can help modifying melting points!

•Special interest combined with light emollient for long lasting spreadability (no migration).

•Comparable to some natural oils but easier to emulsify.

Properties and Benefits

•Lipsticks (long lasting)

•Colour cosmetics

Applications

1. W/O Properties

2. Product Overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


6. Formulations

Good substantive and rich emollient


•INCI: Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

•Functions as emollient, dispersant & water repellent.

•Provides high gloss film, resists rub off, reduces drag on application.

•Substantive and cushion feel.

•Good alternative to castor oil.

Properties and Benefits Applications

•Sun care

•Liquid foundations

•lipsticks

•high solid make up

1. Oleon Company

2. Product Overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


6. Formulations


Good lubricating and rich film forming emollient

•INCI: Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate

•Functions as dispersant for solid ingredients, as potential SPF booster.

•Delivers shine and plasticizer properties in hair care.

•Non tacky sensorial properties.

•Improves skin elasticity.

•Mineral oil replacement

Properties and Benefits

•general skin & hair care

•depilatory creams,

•colour cosmetics,

•sun and baby care,

•shaving formulations

Applications

1. W/O Properties

2. Product Overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


6. Formulations

Silky and good spreading emollient


•INCI: Neopentyl Glycol Diisostearate

•Skin Conditioning

•Silky and rich skin feel


•Sun care

•Protective creams

•Shaving creams

1. W/O Properties

2. Product Overview

3. HLB

4. Emulsifiers


6. Formulations

Light feel emollient with fast absorbtion and excellent spreadability


•INCI: Isopropyl Isostearate

•Functions as overall reducer of tackiness, effective solvent and disperser.

•High gloss & low occlusive.

•Fast absorption, imperceptible afterfeel on the skin(Better than IPM), low amount of residue.


•Unique ingredient for many cosmetic preparations

•Face and eyes make up

Spreadability

0

1

2

3

4

5Isopropyl Palmitate

Isostearic Acid

Triisostearin

Isopropyl IsostearateNeopentylglycol Diisostearate

PentaerythritylTetraisostearate

TrimethylolpropaneTriisostearate

Smoothness

012345

Isopropyl Palmitate

Isostearic Acid

Triisostearin


Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate

Absorption speed

0

1

2

3

4


Isostearic Acid

Triisostearin

Isopropyl IsostearateNepentylglycol Diisostearate



Tackiness

0

1

2

3

4


Isostearic Acid

Triisostearin




Radia 7887

Cold Water-in-oil emulsifier

INCI:Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate

HLB 4,2 & Single Emulsifier

Liquid & EO Free & Palm Free

Amber Coloured

1. W/O Properties

2. W/O Applications

3. Famous Examples

4. R7887

5. Formulations

1. W/O Properties

•Skin protection

•Long lasting moisturisation

•Resemblance to the natural skin protective barrier

•Improved spreading and penetration of active ingredients

•Reduced preservative concentration

1. W/O Properties

2. W/O Applications

3. Famous Examples

4. R7887

5. Formulations

2. W/O Applications

•Sun Screen milks, lotions and creams

•Night creams

•Creams & lotions for dry and sensitive skin

•Skin protective baby creams

•Massage milks

1. W/O Properties

2. W/O Applications

3. Famous examples

4. R7887

5. Formulations

4. R7887..

•...is liquid and allows cold production = reduced cost!

•...is based on natural raw materials & is PEG free.

•...has no need for co-emulsifier single emulsifier

•…is fit for high and low internal face

•...provides emulsions with a glossy appearance

•…functions at low levels (≥1%)

1. W/O Properties

2. W/O Applications

3. Famous examples

4. R7887

a. Cold Processb. Emollientsc. Single Emulsifier

5. Formulations

T (°C)

+/- 80

20

1 2 3

Homogenize4 5

Hot Process

•Solid emulsifier requires temperature (=cost) input.

= Cost

1. W/O Properties

2. W/O Applications

3. Famous examples

4. R7887


5. Formulations

T(C°)

20

1 2 3

Homogenize

4 5

•R7887 doesn’t require heating = possible cost reduction!

1. W/O Properties

2. W/O Applications

3. Famous examples

4. R7887

a. Cold Processb. EmollientsC. Single Emulsifier

5. Formulations

•Potential cost reduction thanks to cold proces.

Hot Proces vs Cold Proces

Weighing and mixing Weighing mixing

Heating Homogenisation

Homogenisation Addition of other raw materials

Cooling & agitation Filling

Time loss during cooling /

Addition of other raw materials

/

Cooling to room tempurature

/

Filling /

Minutes

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

160

1. W/O Properties

2. W/O Applications

3. Famous examples

4. R7887


5. Formulations

b. Emollients influence formulation.

• % water => Viscosity Formulation

• Viscosity emollients => Viscosity Formulation

• Homogenisation => Stability (& Viscosity) Formulation

1. W/O Properties

2. W/O Applications

3. Famous examples

4. R7887


5. Formulations

c. Single Emulsifier.: Test protocol

Test formulation W/O

Oilphase

Oil 10 or 18 or 30Emulsifier 1 or 3.5

Waterphase

Glycerol 4MgSO4.7H2O 0,7Preservative q.s.Water to 100%

Low external phase = 10%High external phase = 30%Low surfactant = 1%High surfactant = 3.5%

Centrifuge stability

(3x15min @ 4000rpm)

Temperature stability

1week @ 50°C2months@ 40°C3 months@ RT

Viscosity stability ( mPas)

Brookfield 10rpm, 1 minute, LVT spindleAfter 1 dayAfter 3 months

appearance Visual aspect

1. W/O Properties

2. W/O Applications

3. Famous examples

4. R7887


5. Formulations

c. Single Emulsifier.: Conclusions

•1% emulsifier is stable for MCT and paraffin oils (18%).

• 3,5% emulsfier is stable for MCT, sunflower oil and paraffin oils. Separate esters are being tested.

•Highest viscosity and synergy is obtained by using sunflower oil.

•Internal phases till 82% were achieved.

•Phase •Ingredient •INCI •% w/w

•A •Radia 7887 •Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate •3.6

•Radia 7373 •Triisostearin •0.5

•Radia 7363 •Triolein (= Sunflower oil) •18

•B •Glycerin 4810 •Glycerin •4

•water •Aqua •To 100

•Mg.SO4.7H2O •0.8

•C •preservative •0.7

Low Cost W/O protective cream HP11-22-2

Viscosity : 121000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 7, rpm 10, 1 min.)Assessment: Rich protective cream, high viscosity, film forming , good spreading

5. Formulations


•A •Radia 7887 •Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate •4

•Radia 7208 •Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate •2

•Radia 7732 •Isopropyl Palmitate •11

•Sweet almond oil •2

•Avocado oil •2



•Mg.SO4.7H2O •0.5


W/O soft body cream/Lotion HP03-54-3

•Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)

•Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading

5. Formulations


•A •Radia 7887 •Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate •3,6

•Paraffin Oil •15

•Radia 7373 •Triisostearin •0,5

•Radia 7500 •Cetyl Palmitate •2



•Mg.SO4.7H2O •0.5


•ZnO •10

Low Cost Protective baby cream HP11-12-1

•Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)

•Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading

5. Formulations

Isoamyl Esters

Oleon: A NATURAL CHEMISTRY

Isoamyl Esters

Biofermentation Isoamyl Alcohol

Vegetable Fatty Acids

+

=

Isoamyl esters are the natural alternative to high performance dispersing products.

Isoamyl Ester

Fully natural : originates from fusel oils coming from the bio -fermentation of sugar beets

Isoamyl alcohol = isobutyl carbinol =isopentyl alcohol

Vegetable fatty acids : C8/C10, C12, C14, C16, C18 ,C16-C18, cocoate, oleate

Oleon isoamyl esters contain only natural building blocks.

Isoamyl Esters

Radia 7750: Isoamyl Laurate

Sunscreen products & UV filtersVery good solvating power

Colour cosmetics and skin care.Ability to disperse pigments

Baby care and cleansing formulationsExcellent skin compatibility

Improved spreadability. Low viscosity & Quick absorbing

Silicone like sensorial profileExcellent sensorial profile

R7750 Sensorial Properties

During rubbing

010203040

50absorbence

residue

sticky

moisture

After rubbing

R7750IPM Dimethicone

0

20

40

60shiny

absorbence

thickness

silky

Greasysticky

oily

moisture

spreading

Visual evaluation of wetting properties

10 gr TiO2 +

C12-C15 A. B. Castor Oil IA Laurate IA Myristate IA Palmitate IA Oleate

12 ml 5

13 ml 4 5 5

14 ml 2 5 5 4

15 ml 5 5 1 4 4 3

16 ml 4 4 4 4 2

17 ml 3 4 4 4 1

18 ml 3 4 3 3

19 ml 3 4 2 2

20 ml 3 3 2 2

21 ml 3 3 1 1

22 ml 3 2

23 ml 3 2

24 ml 2 1

25 ml 2

26 ml 1

1smooth dispersion

2

Glossy dispersionslighly Granular

3Granular cream

4Granular paste

5Adhesive paste

Isoamyl esters disperse the same dosage of pigment TiO2 with a small amount of ester.

Analytical evaluation of wetting properties

Isoamyl esters provide a steady viscosity with increasing TiO2 concentration. This stability translates into easier handling for end formulations.

Viscosity in function of %TiO2 in dispersion

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

3 4 5 6 7 8 9

gr TiO2

C12-C15 AlkylbenzoateIA laurateIA Palmitate

Visually identified as smooth and viscous dispersion

Imparts a dry lubricating feel in the presence of large amounts of mineral oil or vegetable oils; i.e., “de-oils” mineral oil and “de-greases” vegetable oils.

Is a short chain ester which acts as a superior solubilizer of lipophilic cosmetic raw materials as eg sunscreen agents.

Provides high spreading and quick penetration.

Acts as an anti-tack agent.

Acts as a wetting agent and auxiliary suspending agent for waterinsoluble powdered products.

R7750 Application Info

First choice emollient in natural and conventional cosmetic frame formales

Usage level: 4-80%. Often used as primary oil.

Higher usage levels 30-80% in all kind of body oils & bath oils.

5-20% in both O/W and W/O emulsion creams.

Wet wipes O/W: 0.5-2 %

Natural hair care products: 1-5%

Formulation Data

Personal Care Overview Oleon : A NATURAL CHEMISTRY.

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