Learner name:

Learner number:

Y/600/8537

VRQ

UV20512

Perm and neutralise hair

VTCT is the specialist awarding body for the Hairdressing, Beauty Therapy, Complementary Therapy and Sport and Active Leisure sectors, with over 45 years of experience.

VTCT is an awarding body regulated by national organisations including Ofqual, SQA, DCELLS and CCEA.

VTCT is a registered charity investing in education and skills but also giving to good causes in the area of facial disfigurement.

By signing this statement of unit achievement you are confirming that all learning outcomes, assessment criteria and range statements have been achieved under specified conditions and that the evidence gathered is authentic.

This statement of unit achievement table must be completed prior to claiming certification.

Unit code Date achieved Learner signature Assessor initials

IV signature (if sampled)

Assessor name Assessor signature Assessors initials

Assessor number (optional)

Assessor tracking table

Statement of unit achievement

All assessors using this Record of Assessment book must complete this table. This is required for verification purposes.

UV20512Perm and neutralise hair

It is the aim of this unit to develop your skills to create a variety of looks using basic perming techniques. You will learn how to assess your clients’ hair by identifying influencing factors through consultation techniques. This will enable you to identify the correct products, techniques, tools and equipment to use to suit your clients’ needs. You must also demonstrate that you can work on both long and short hair.

Part of this service is to provide your clients with good aftercare advice.

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GLH

Credit value

Level

Observation(s)

External paper(s)

60

7

2

3

1

On completion of this unit you will:

Learning outcomes Evidence requirements

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Perm and neutralise hair

1. Be able to prepare to perm and neautralise hair

2. Be able to perm and neutralise hair

1. Environment Evidence for this unit must be gathered in a real or realistic working environment.

2. Simulation At least 75% of ‘Observation’ outcomes must be on real clients.

3. Observation outcomes Competent performance of ‘Observation’ outcomes must be demonstrated to your assessor on at least three occasions.

4. Range All ranges must be practically demonstrated or other forms of evidence produced to show they have been covered.

5. Knowledge outcomes There must be evidence that you possess all the knowledge and understanding listed in the ‘Knowledge’ section of this unit. This evidence may include projects, assignments, case studies, reflective accounts, oral/written questioning and/or other forms of evidence.

6. Tutor/Assessor guidance You will be guided by your tutor/assessor on how to achieve learning outcomes and ranges in this unit. All outcomes and ranges must be achieved.

7. External paper Knowledge and understanding in this unit will be assessed by an external paper. The criteria that make up this paper are highlighted in white throughout this unit. There is one external paper that must be achieved.

3

Achieving observation outcomes

Achieving range

Maximum service times

Achieving observations and range

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Your assessor will observe your performance of practical tasks. The minimum number of observations required is indicated in the evidence requirements section of this unit.

Criteria may not always naturally occur during a practical observation. In such instances you will be asked questions to demonstrate your competence in this area. Your assessor will document the criteria that have been achieved through oral questioning.

Your assessor will sign off an outcome when all criteria have been competently achieved in a single client service.

The range section indicates what must be covered. Ranges should be practically demonstrated as part of an observation. Where this is not possible other forms of evidence may be produced. All ranges must be covered.

Your assessor will document the portfolio reference once a range has been competently achieved.

The following maximum service times apply to this unit:

All perm wind techniques (winding only)

45 minutes

4

Outcome 1

Observations

You can:

Observation 1 2 3Date achieved

Criteria questioned orally

Portfolio reference

Assessor initials

Learner signature

*May be assessed through oral questioning.

Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair

a. Prepare yourself, the client and work area for perming and neutralising

b. Use suitable consultation techniques to identify service objectives

c. Assess the potential of the hair to achieve the desired look by identifying the influencing factors

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Outcome 2

You can:

Be able to perm and neutralise hair

*May be assessed through oral questioning.

a. Communicate and behave in a professional manner

b. Select and use products, tools and techniques, taking into account factors influencing the service

c. Section and wind the hair, taking meshes to suit the perm rod size to achieve the desired look

d. Wind the hair with even tension, making sure all wound perm rods sit on their own base

e. Monitor the development of the perming and neutralising processes, following manufacturers’ instructions

f. Leave the hair free of perm lotion when the desired degree of curl is achieved, using water temperature and flow to suit client’s needs

g. Follow safe and hygienic working practices

h. Provide suitable aftercare advice

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Observation 1 2 3Date achieved

Criteria questioned orally

Portfolio reference

Assessor initials

Learner signature

Photo courtesy of Wahl UK Ltd.

Range

*You must practically demonstrate that you have:

Used all perming and neutralising products Portfolio reference

Barrier cream

Pre-perm treatments

Perm lotions

Neutralisers

Post-perm treatments

Considered all contra-indications Portfolio reference

History of previous allergic reaction to perming products

Other known allergies

Skin disorders

Incompatible products

Medical advice or instructions

Performed all hair tests Portfolio reference

Elasticity

Porosity

Incompatibility

Skin

Development

Considered all influencing factors Portfolio reference

Temperature

Direction and degree of movement required

Hair condition

Hair texture

Hair length

Hair density

*It is strongly recommended that all range items are practically demonstrated. Where this is not possible, other forms of evidence may be produced to demonstrate competence.

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*You must practically demonstrate that you have:

Used all sectioning techniques Portfolio reference

DirectionalMaximum service time (winding only) 45 minutes

9 section Maximum service time (winding only) 45 minutes

BrickMaximum service time (winding only) 45 minutes

Provided all types of advice Portfolio reference

Suitable aftercare products and their use

Use of heated styling equipment

Time interval between services

The effect of perming on other services

*It is strongly recommended that all range items are practically demonstrated. Where this is not possible, other forms of evidence may be produced to demonstrate competence.

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Photo courtesy of Wahl UK Ltd.

Achieving knowledge outcomes

Developing knowledge

You will be guided by your tutor and assessor on the evidence that needs to be produced. Your knowledge and understanding will be assessed using the assessment methods listed below:

• Observed work• Witness statements• Audio-visual media • Evidence of prior learning or attainment• Written questions• Oral questions• Assignments• Case studies

Where possible your assessor will integrate knowledge outcomes into practical observations through oral questioning.

Achieving the external paper

The external paper will test your knowledge of the criteria highlighted in white. A pass mark of 70% must be achieved. Criteria not achieved will be identified to your tutor/assessor. You will then be orally questioned or asked to produce other forms of evidence as all unit criteria must be achieved.

Your assessor will complete the following table when the 70% pass mark has been achieved.

Paper Date achieved Assessor initials

1 of 1

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Knowledge

Outcome 1

Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair

You can: Portfolio reference /Assessor initials*

d. State the factors that need to be considered when perming and neutralising hair

e. Describe the salon’s requirements for client preparation, preparing yourself and the work area

f. Describe the different consultation techniques used to identify the service objectives

g. Explain the importance of carrying out the necessary tests prior to and during the service and recording the results

h. Explain the importance of following manufacturers’ instructions

i. Describe the range of perm and neutralising products, tools and equipment

*Assessor initials to be inserted if orally questioned. Requirements highlighted in white are assessed in the external paper.

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Outcome 2

Be able to perm and neutralise hair

You can: Portfolio reference /Assessor initials*

i. Describe the effects of perm lotions and neutralisers on the hair structure

j. Outline the factors that determine the use of different types of perming and neutralising products, tools and equipment

k. Explain how temperature affects the perming process

l. State the importance of accurate timing and thorough rinsing of products

m. Explain when and why it is important to use pre-perm and post-perm treatments

n. Explain the factors that influence the choice of sectioning techniques and different sized perm rods

o. Explain the method of checking curl development

p. Outline the types and causes of problems that can occur during the perming and neutralising processes and how to resolve them

q. Outline safe and hygienic working practices

r. Describe the aftercare advice that should be provided

s. State how to communicate and behave within a salon environment

*Assessor initials to be inserted if orally questioned. Requirements highlighted in white are assessed in the external paper.

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Outcome 1: Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair

Unit content

This section provides guidance on the recommended knowledge and skills required to enable you to achieve each of the learning outcomes in this unit. Your tutor/assessor will ensure you have the opportunity to cover all of the unit content.

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Preparation of self: Clothes (salon requirements for uniform, clean/ironed clothes, non-restrictive, closed-in low heeled shoes), hair (clean, healthy, manageable, off face), personal hygiene (clean body, teeth, workable length clean nails, deodorant, no overpowering perfume/aftershave), personal protective equipment (gloves, apron, prevent dermatitis), minimal jewellery, positive attitude, ready to greet.

Preparation of client: Remove client’s outer clothing, protect against damage, client relaxed and comfortable (posture, aids service), remove excessive jewellery (avoid damage to jewellery or skin), gown, towel, plastic cape, barrier cream, ensure client comfort, record card.

Preparation of work area: Chair, trolley, work station, equipment cleaned, appropriate sterilisation (barbicide, autoclave, UV, sterilising spray), complete destruction of all living organisms on tools and equipment, disinfection (remove contamination from hard surfaces, large work areas, floors and work surfaces), heat or chemical methods, use of trolley, safe professional presentation tools and equipment, visual check on large and small equipment, electrical equipment checked, portable appliance test, select height of chair/basin.

Consultation techniques: Use a variety of methods to ensure suitability of service, product and technique.

Questioning – open, closed, probing.

Language – appropriate level for client, use of technical/non-technical language.

Client expectations/needs – listen, clarify, advise, plan.

History of hair – hair tests, touch, feel, look of hair.

Advice – what will work, what will not?

Use visual aids – shade charts, style book, portfolio, collection of pictures.

Service objectives – amount of curl required, shape of curl, length of hair, longevity of service.

Assessing the potential of the hair: Clarify the condition of hair, previous chemical services, benefit to client, identify influencing factors, test hair, compatible with client’s lifestyle, review findings, what will work and what will not, draw conclusions, create a plan.

Factors that influence services: Previous chemical services, percentage of grey, client requirements, tools and equipment, presence of added hair, maintenance of style suitability.

Hair condition – dry, greasy, normal, virgin, chemically treated, elasticity (strength of hair), porosity (damage to cuticle layer, the ability to absorb moisture).

Hair cut/style – uniform layer, one length, short graduation, long graduation.

Temperature – body heat, salon temperature, added heat.

Texture – fine, medium, coarse.

Outcome 1: Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair (continued)

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Length – short, medium, long.

Density – fine, medium, thick.

Growth patterns – cowlick, widow’s peak, nape whorl, double crown, male pattern baldness.

Skin tone – fair, medium, olive, dark.

Face shape – oval, round, square, oblong, heart, pear.

Head size – large, medium, small.

Existing curl – tight, soft, wave.

Lifestyle – job, family, financial, time.

Test results – good, bad, caution, positive, negative.

Hair and scalp contra-indications: Can prevent/alter service, product, technique.

Types of condition – skin disorders (disease, infestation, infection, defect, bacteria, virus, fungi, parasites).

Skin sensitivities – reaction.

Allergies – latex, nut, plasters, perfume, oil.

History of allergic reaction – positive reaction to skin test, colour service.

Incompatible products – metallic salts, previous chemical treatments.

Medication – prescription medication.

Medical condition – high blood pressure, pregnancy, radiotherapy, cancer.

Hair condition – chemical, heat damage, environmental.

Hair disorder – contagious/non-contagious.

Skin disorder – contagious/non-contagious, cross-infection (stylist to client,

client to stylist).

Contagious:

Bacterial – impetigo (blisters, weep, yellow crust), folliculitis (yellow pustules), sycosis (yellow, spot, follicle), furunculosis (pus filled spot), sebaceous cyst (lump on top or under skin).

Viral – warts (raised, rough skin, brown), herpes (blisters).

Fungal – tinea capitis/ringworm (patches, pink/grey, scaly, broken hair).

Animal parasites – pediculosis capitis (head lice, parasite, 6 legs, suck blood), scabies (parasites, mites).

Non-contagious:

Psoriasis – over production of skin cells, dry, silvery, scales.

Cicatrical alopecia – scar.

Alopecia totalis – complete hair loss.

Male pattern baldness – hair recedes at hairline or loss at crown.

Traction alopecia – excessive pulling, brushing curling and straightening.

Alopecia areata – stress, bald patches (seborrhea – excessive oil).

Dandruff – itchy, white, skin cells.

Dry scalp – white, powdery.

Eczema/dermatitis – allergic reaction to detergent, red, irritation, swollen, weeping.

Acne – raised bumps and spots.

Defects of the hair:

Fragilitas crinium – split, dry ends.

Monilethrix – beaded hair.

Outcome 1: Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair (continued)

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Trichorrhexis nodosa – rough, swollen, broken shaft.

Sebaceous cyst – sebum filled lump.

Damaged cuticle – dull hair.

Salon health and safety legislation and regulations: Health and safety at work, control of substances hazardous to health, reporting of injuries diseases and dangerous occurrences, personal protective equipment, electricity at work, manual handling, supply of goods and services, trade description, data protection, employers liability (compulsory insurance), occupiers liability, local by-laws (set by council), salon rules, code of conduct, observance by all staff.

Hair tests: Use manufacturer’s instructions, salon guidelines, before during and after service.

What each test checks for:

Elasticity test – tensile strength, internal strength of hair.

Porosity test – ability to absorb product, moisture loss from hair.

Skin test – allergic reaction to chemicals.

Pre-perm test curl – suitability for service, size and shape of curl.

Incompatibility test – check for presence of metallic salts, suitability of further chemical services.

Development test curl – monitor the development of the perm.

Test cutting – check suitability of colour choice.

Testing and recording results: Record card up-to-date and accurate, essential information, for future reference,

professional image, legal implications.

Following manufacturers’ instructions: On bottle, packaging, leaflet, colour chart, ensures successful service, storage (temperature, location, light), handling (correct mixing), use (application, removal), disposal (dilution products, recycle empties), prevents legal action.

Range of perm lotions: Acid, alkaline, exothermic, varieties available (virgin, resistant, normal, coloured, fragile).

Range of neutralising agents: Based on hydrogen peroxide, sodium bromate.

Range of products used during the perming process: Barrier cream, pre-perm treatment, cleansing/clarifying shampoo, anti-oxidant conditioner, perm lotion, neutraliser agent.

Range of tools and equipment used for perming and neutralising:

Perm curlers (various sizes) – spiral perm curlers, bendy rods, plastic perm rollers, plastic pin curl clips.

Equipment – pintail comb, wide tooth comb, sectioning clips, end papers, cotton wool, drip tray, plastic bowl/neutralising sponge, towels, tissue paper, personal protective equipment (disposable gloves, apron and cape), tension rods, climazone.

Photo courtesy of Wahl UK Ltd.

Outcome 2: Be able to perm and neutralise hair

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Professional communication in a salon environment: Try to avoid technical language, always respond, consider client’s confidentiality.

Verbal – speaking (tone of voice, the language you use, how quickly, clearly), questioning (open, closed, probing).

Non-verbal – body language, positive attitude (your posture, facial expressions, hand gestures, the distance you stand), listening (be patient, try to understand).

Written – visual aids, magazines, client records.

Behave professionally in a salon environment: Follow health and safety practice and procedure, salon code of conduct, respect others, value client(s), co-operate with others (be sympathetic, fair, not aggressive), use appropriate language, avoid gossip, maintain confidentiality, polite/cheerful and friendly manner, friendly facial expressions, open body language, positive attitude, eye contact, sensible behaviour, team work, pride in work, punctuality, employer and client loyalty.

How to choose a suitable product: Choice of lotion, strength of lotion, condition of hair, hair texture, degree of curl or movement required, record of previous treatment, manufacturer’s instructions.

Sectioning techniques:

Nine section – methodical winding, hair sectioned into ‘9’ sections (most used method).

Directional – supports the style, rollers to be placed in the same direction as finished result.

Brick – rollers placed in a brick formation, avoids partings, good for keeping hair back

off of the face.

Taking a meche of hair during perm winding: Sections to be same width and length as curler or rod.

Winding techniques: Croquinole (points to roots), spiral winding (roots to points), wind at 90 degrees, even tension, curler wound parallel to section, long hair – wiggle when winding, curler to sit on own base.

Size of perm curler: Variation of rod size, diameter of curler, various sizes – colour coded, green the smallest (very small, tight curl, short hair), black the largest (large bouncy curl/root lift).

Monitor the process: Accurate timing, use timer, perform regular development test curl, check for “S” or “C” formation, manufacturer’s guidelines, prevent legal action, successful result.

Development time: Manufacturer’s guidelines, variation on each product, point when desired curl is achieved.

Following manufacturers’ instructions: On bottle, packaging, leaflet, colour chart, ensures successful service, storage (temperature, location, light), handling (correct mixing), use (application, removal), disposal (dilution products, recycle empties), prevents legal action.

Why it is important to rinse neutralising products from hair: Sulphur bonds will not reform fully, incorrect result achieved, creeping oxidation, deterioration of hair condition.

Removal method – use manufacturer’s instructions for individual products, thorough rinsing, average time 10 minutes, long hair requires longer rinsing, check for

Outcome 2: Be able to perm and neutralise hair (continued)

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successful removal, no remaining smell, hair in rod loses its oily feel.

Water temperature and flow: Check temperature on wrist, warm water, flow not too strong (create splashing), confirm client comfort through rinsing, water too hot (burn hair and scalp), water too cold (uncomfortable for client), cool/warm water recommended for neutralising.

How to follow safe and hygienic working practices:

Maintaining a safe salon – clean, tidy, safe standards of working, remove spillages, report slippery surfaces, remove/report obstacles, clear access to trolleys and equipment, clean/sterilise/disinfect tools, equipment, work surfaces, no smoking, eating, drinking or drugs in salon, professional personal hygiene.

Personal protective equipment – wear protective equipment, avoid latex, powdered gloves, apron.

Electricity at work – visual check of equipment, no trailing wires, portable appliance testing.

Manual handling – moving stock safely, lifting, working heights, unpacking.

Towels – wash regularly, clean for every client, place dirty towels in covered bin.

Reporting of injuries diseases and dangerous occurrences – accident book, reporting diseases, log accidents.

Control of substances hazardous to health – store, handle, use, disposal, replace lids, ventilation for vapour and dust, avoid overexposure to chemicals, use manufacturers’ instructions for use.

Disposal of waste – sharps box, closed

top bin, dilute chemicals with running water, environmental protection, salon policies for hazardous waste, single use items, recycle empties.

Product storage – check end date/packaging, store away from heat/damp/direct sunlight, empties avoid theft.

Provide suitable aftercare advice: Important part of service, avoid technical language, maintain eye contact, suggest/advise/recommend, provide information.

Maintenance – frequency of visit, regular services, minimise chemical treatments, correct use of electrical equipment, product use and demonstration.

Effects of perm lotion on the hair structure:

Softening stage – opens, swells, lifts the cuticle scales, alkaline product.

Moulding stage – deposits hydrogen into cortex, hydrogen attaches to the disulphide bonds, disulphide bonds break into individual sulphur bonds, from cystine to cysteine, amino acids, takes shape of the perm curler, amount of disulphide bonds broken varies per lotion type, approximately 20%.

Fixing stage – oxidation process, removal of hydrogen by the addition of oxygen, oxygen joins with hydrogen to make water (H2O), water floods out of cortex, disulphide bonds reformed, acid pH.

The effects of temperature on the perming process:

Heat – speeds up processing time, helps to open/swell cuticle scales, manufacturer requirement, some are self heating, some need additional heat.

Photo courtesy of Wahl UK Ltd.

Outcome 2: Be able to perm and neutralise hair (continued)

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Cold – slows down processing time.

Type of heat:

Body heat – client feeling cold, warm, hot, perspire through scalp.

Salon temperature – summer, winter, central heating, air conditioning.

Additional heat – climazone, hood dryer, use of towels.

The importance of accurate timing: Manufacturer’s instructions, prevents over/under processing, prevents deterioration of hair condition, successful result.

Pre-perm treatments: Porosity leveller, used prior to perming, evens out porosity, even penetration of perm lotion into cortex, hair more pliable, available in individual sprays/bottles.

Post-perm conditioners: Acid pH, anti-oxidant conditioner, restores natural pH, prevents creeping oxidation, closes/smooth cuticle, applied after final neutralising rinse.

The types and causes of problems:

Perm slow to develop – re-apply lotion, apply added heat.

Skin sensitivity – remove lotion immediately, rinse cool water, advise client to visit doctor.

Perm curlers fall out – replace rod, add tension rod, net.

Fish hooks – cut ends of hair.

Frizziness – restructurant conditioner, cut.

Uneven curl – re-perm if condition allows.

Curl too loose – re-perm if condition allows.

Curl too tight – relax if condition allows.

Breakage – restructurant conditioner, cut.

Straight areas – re-perm if condition allows.

Loss of hair colour – apply semi/quasi after neutraliser.

Rubber band markings – monitor, use tension rods in future, restructuring treatments.

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Notes Use this area for notes and diagrams