Perfect Beaded Gifts to Make - Knitting, Crochet, Jewelry ...€¦ · personal handmade gifts for...

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5 FREE Holiday Jewelry Projects: Perfect Beaded Gifts to Make

Transcript of Perfect Beaded Gifts to Make - Knitting, Crochet, Jewelry ...€¦ · personal handmade gifts for...

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5 FREE Holiday Jewelry Projects:

Perfect Beaded Gifts to Make

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FALLING SNOW EARRINGS

by SANDIE BACHAND p. 4

Combine spike pendants, crystal rivolis, and cylinder and seed beads for sleek, modern earrings made with herringbone and peyote stitches.

Point the Way Earrings GLORIANNE LJUBICH

56-59 Ljubich-Point the Way Earrings.indd 56 8/6/15 10:24 AM

by GLORIANNE LJUBICH p. 6

POINT THE WAY EARRINGS

LACY & LOOPY CHRISTMAS ORNAMENT

by SANDI GRAVES p. 1

by JAMIE HOGSETT p. 10

CHAMPAGNE FLUTES

5 FREE Holiday Jewelry Projects:

Perfect Beaded Gifts to Make

by CINDY HOLSCLAW p. 13

SNOWFLAKES BRACELET

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With the holidays right around the corner, now is the perfect time to start making beaded

jewelry and decorations. In this inspiring holiday jewelry download, you’ll receive five beading

patterns that focus on beaded fringe techniques, peyote stitch, wire working, and more. Are

handmade beaded Christmas ornaments on your gift list? You’ll love stitching Sandi Graves’

beautiful Lacy and Loopy Christmas Ornament pattern. Are you searching for a festive pair of

Christmas earrings to wear to holiday parties? Use wire and crystals to create Jamie Hogsett’s

avant garde Champagne Flutes earring design. Then, combine several beadweaving techniques

with two-hole seed beads to make the Snowflakes Bracelet pattern by designer Cindy Holsclaw.

Whether you want to create dazzling holiday jewelry, advance your beading techniques or make

personal handmade gifts for your loved ones, this free pattern download will inspire and prepare

you for the holidays!

Enter your e-mail to download these free beading patterns, and start creating today. Once you’ve

signed in, you’ll find jewelry-making patterns, helpful advice and instruction from Beading Daily

editors, and you’ll also have the opportunity to interact with other beaders.

Download this great resource today!

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5 FREE Holiday Jewelry Projects: Perfect Beaded Gifts to Makeeditor, beadingdaily TAMARA HONAMAN

production designer JANICE TAPIA / photography JOE COCA, ANN SWANSON / marketing specialist TAYLOR HEUSSNER

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. BeadingDaily, Beadwork, and Stringing do not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in this publication. Nor do BeadingDaily, Beadwork, or Stringing evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in BeadingDaily, Beadwork, and Stringing.

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5 FREE Holiday Jewelry Projects:

Perfect Beaded Gifts to Make

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              t my house , Chr i s tmas ornament               equates to cat toy. Several of my blown-       glass ornaments are broken by my cats each year. I designed this ornament cover so that it can be pulled off a broken ornament ball and placed on an unbroken one.

The cover is designed to fit a 21⁄2" to 25⁄8" glass or-nament ball (the standard large size found in most stores). Be careful when working with these orna-ments, because their finish is often fragile and can eas-ily chip. I recommend purchasing a clear glass orna-ment from your local craft store on which to do the beadwork. Since this is an ornament cover it can be re-moved from the clear glass ball and placed around any

ball of your choice after the beadwork is finished.You will need to start a new thread several times

in this project, and will most likely need to tie several knots. (See “Notes About Knots” sidebar.) As a result, the needle may get stuck as you try to weave through the netting. In such a case, choose an alternate route for your thread through the beads. Because of this oc-casional problem, I don’t recommend using Silamide for this project.

Netting is a loose stitch, so I also recommend wax-ing your thread to increase thread stability and tension-ing ability.

Editor’s note: The instructions vary slightly from the ornament shown here.

&A

LacyLoopy

CHRISTMAS ORNAMENT

SAND I GRAVES

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LACEWORK

Note: All lacework is done with size 14°s. String 60 on a generous length of thread. Leav-ing a 6" tail, tie a knot close to the beads to form a loop and place over the glass ornament top. Weave through 2 more beads to exit away from the knot. This is your foundation circle.

Rnd 1: String 31. PBT the eighth, seventh, and sixth beads. String 5. Skipping 5 beads on top circle, PT the sixth bead. (Figure 1.) *String 25. PT the twenty-sixth bead of the prev loop (6 beads down from the joining point). String 5. PBT the eighth, seventh, and sixth beads. String 5. PT the sixth bead from the last loop on the foundation circle. Rep from * for loops 3–9. String 13. PT the twenty-sixth bead of the last loop made. String 11. PBT the fourteenth bead of the first loop. String 5. PBT the eighth, seventh, and sixth

beads. String 5. PT the starting bead of the foundation circle. Note: This round may not lie flat against the ornament, but it will be pulled into shape when the ornament is joined at the bottom by the ribbon.

Rnd 2: Weave thread through to the bottom of any Rnd 1 loop. Exit between the twenty-first and twenty-second beads of the loop. *String 31. Pull snug against the ornament. String 31. PBT the last 3 beads of the first grouping. String 28.

PT the nineteenth, twen-tieth, twenty-first, twen-ty-second, and twen-ty-third beads of the next bottom loop from Rnd 1. (Figure 2.) Rep from * for a total of 10 loops.Rnd 2 “Bridges”: Weave thread to the bottom of one of the Rnd 2 loops. Exit between the eleventh and twelfth beads. *String 10. Join to the neigh boring loop by PT the twenty-first, twenty-second, twen-ty-third, twenty-fourth, and twenty-fifth beads. String 10. Weave through to original loop, entering between the sixth and sev-enth beads. Weave thread around to other side of loop. (Figure 3.) Rep from * making a top and bottom bridge between each bottom loop.Rnd 3: Weave thread

through to exit between the second and third beads of one of the Rnd 2 bottom bridges. String 50. PBT the fifteenth, fourteenth, thir-teenth, twelfth, and eleventh beads. String 10. PT the last 2 beads at the opposite end of the bottom bridge.

Loops 2–19: Exit from the second bead down from the x-join in the next Rnd 2 loop. *String 24. PT the ninth bead of the prev Rnd 3 loop. String 26. PBT the fifteenth, fourteenth, thir-teenth, twelfth, and eleventh beads. String 10. PT the last 2 beads of the Rnd 2 bottom loop.

Figure 2

Figure 1

Figure 3

MATER IA LS

13 grams size 14° Japanese seed beads3 grams size 11° Japanese seed beadsMF = 40 Miyuki Fringe BeadsTD = 30 5mm × 7mm faceted crystal teardrop

beadsGP = 40 3mm gold-plated round beadsSW = 20 4mm Swarovski faceted crystal rondel

beadsFR = 10 4mm faceted round glass beads1 foot length of 1⁄8"-wide ribbon to match beads1 21⁄2"–25⁄8" glass Christmas ball ornamentNymo “B” thread

NOT IONS

Size 12 beading needleBeeswaxGlueScissors

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Weave thread through to exit between the sec-ond and third beads of the next Rnd 2 bridge. Rep from * to create all loops.

Loop 20: String 24. PT the ninth bead of the last loop. String 17. PBT the ninth bead of the first loop. String 8. PBT the fifteenth, fourteenth, thirteenth, twelfth, and eleventh of current loop. String 10. Enter loop 2 beads from the end. Weave thread through several beads to secure and tie a knot. Trim working and tail threads close to work. Secure the lacework to the ornament by passing a thin ribbon through alternating loops at the bottom. Tie in a bow.

EMBE L L I SHMENT ROUNDS

Rnd 1: Weave a new thread through the beads at the top loops of the lacework. Exit from the first bead above the 3-bead join. *String 1 11°, 1 MF, 1 11°, 1 MF, 1 11°. PT the first bead above the 3-bead join of the adjacent loop. Weave thread through the beads, exiting at the first bead above the 3-bead join on the opposite side of this loop. Rep from * all around. Exit from the center bottom bead of the last loop just embellished.

Rnd 2: *String 17 11°s, 1 TD, 1 11°. PBT the TD and the seventeenth 11°. String 16 11°s. Skipping one beaded loop, PT center bottom bead of next beaded loop. Rep from * until you have 5 loops. Weave thread through beads

and exit from the center bottom bead located on a skipped beaded loop. Rep netting for the skipped loops.

Rnd 3: Weave thread through the lacework and exit from the end of one of the top “bridge” connections. *String 2 11°s, 1 MF, 2 11°s. PT into opposite side of loop. PT beads of next bridge. Rep from * to create 10.

Rnd 4: Weave thread through to exit between the fourth and fifth beads at the top of one of the bridges. *String 11 11°s, 1 TD, 1 11°. PBT TD and 1 11°. String 10 11°s. PT the fifth and sixth beads in the top of the next bridge. Repeat from * all around.

Rnd 5: Weave thread through to exit at the join of one of the very bottom loops. *String 1 GP, 1 SW, 1 GP, 1 FR, 1 GP, 1 SW, 1 GP, 1 TD, and 1 11°. Skipping the 11°, PBT all beads just strung. Weave through beads skipping 1 loop join, and working the next loop join. Repeat from * all around to make 10 finials. Weave thread through several beads to secure and tie a knot. Trim working and tail thread close to work.  y

A beadworking artist and teacher, Sandi Graves is the propri-etor of Stormcloud Trading Company in St. Paul, Minnesota. Contact Sandi via e-mail at [email protected].

FURTHER READ INGJansen, Laura. The Bedecked Ornament. Vacaville, California:

Creative Beadwork, 1998.

N O T E S A B O U T K N O T S

A netting project like this requires lots of thread and lots of knots. Here is my favorite way to tie knots—I guarantee they won’t come undone.

Leave a 6" tail on your old thread (OT).(A) Loop the end of the new thread (NT).(B) Place OT through NT loop, close to the beads.(C) Pull loop tight (makes a Lark’s Head knot).(D) Using OT, tie a half-hitch knot around NT. To make it extra secure, do a second half-hitch

with the OT. Dab a little watch-crystal glue or clear nail polish on the knot. Use a razor blade or sharp scissors to clip the thread close to the work at the level of the beads after the glue has dried.

A B C D

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Fa� ing Snow Earrings Sandie Bachand

Float a rivoli within an open bezel of various size seed beads to maximize sparkle in this quick-stitch project that offers instant gratification.

artist’s tips❯ Use tight tension to securely set the central rivoli in the bezel.

❯ Try substituting cabochons or other similar beads for the central element.

❯ String additional components together to fashion bracelets and necklaces.

❯ Be sure your jump rings are closed tightly or use soldered jump rings to ensure the threads cannot slip out of the rings.

TECHNIQUEScircular peyote stitchsquare stitch picotfringe

PROJECT LEVEL

MATERIALS0.5 g gold size 15° seed beads (A)0.5 g gold size 11° seed beads (B)48 iris green 2.5mm cornerless hex beads (C)24 pink/topaz luster 5×2.5mm 2-hole

seed beads (D)24 steel blue 2mm glass pearls (E)2 foil-back aquamarine glacier blue 10mm

crystal rivolis 2 gold 4mm jump rings2 gold-plated 19×15mm ear wiresSmoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLSScissorsSize 12 beading needle2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers

FINISHED SIZE1¾"

46-55 Earrings Feature.indd 51 10/2/14 10:35 AM

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1) BEZEL. Use a variety of techniques to form the earring’s bezel:Round 1: Use 3' of thread to string {1C and

2D} six times. Tie the working and tail threads together to form a tight circle, leaving a 6" tail. Pass through the first C of this round (Fig. 1, green thread).

Bezel Back: String 1B, 7A, and 1B; pass through the C on the opposite side of Round 1, back through the beads just added, through the original C, and through the following 2D (inside holes) and 1C of Round 1 (Fig. 1, blue thread). String 1B and 3A; pass through the fourth A previously added. String 3A and 1B; pass through the C on the opposite side of Round 1. Pass back through the 1B/3A just added, the C at the center, the next 3A/1B of this second strand, and through the C where this second strand originally began (Fig. 1, red thread).

Round 2: String 1C; pass through the last C exited to form a square stitch, then repeat the thread path to reinforce. Pass through the following 2D (inside holes) and 1C. Repeat from the beginning of this round five times. Exit from the first C added in this round (Fig. 2, blue thread). Note: You will now begin working in the opposite direction.

Round 3: Working with light tension, string 2A and pass through the next C of Round 2; repeat five times (Fig. 2, red thread). Note: Make sure these beads are added on top of the D. Place 1 rivoli faceup into the beadwork. Pull the thread to tighten the beads up and around the rivoli. Pass through this round again to reinforce the bezel. Exit from the first A of this round.

Round 4: String 1E and pass through the next 1A of Round 3/1C of Round 2/1A of Round 3; repeat five times. Weave through

Fig. 1: Forming Round 1 and the back of the earring

Fig. 2: Stitching Rounds 2 and 3

Fig. 3: Completing Rounds 4 and 5

beads to exit from the leftmost D in the nearest 2D pair in Round 1, exiting from the left side of the second (outer) hole (Fig. 3, green thread).

Round 5, first pass: String 1C, 1E, and 1C, pass through the next D (outer hole) of Round 1, then string 1B and pass through the following D (outer hole) of Round 1; repeat four times. String 1C, 1E, and 1C; pass through the next D (outer hole) of Round 1. String 2B and 1 jump ring; pass back through the last B added and through the second-to-last B added and the following D (outer hole) of Round 1 (Fig. 3, blue thread).

Round 5, second pass: Shape the round by passing through the next 2C of Round 5, the following D (outer hole) of Round 1, the next B of Round 5, and the next D (outer hole) of Round 1; repeat five times, skipping the Es and pulling the thread tight to close the spaces between the C and cause the E to extend outward on the picots. In the last repeat, do not pass through the final D; instead, weave through the 2B and jump ring to reinforce the connection (Fig. 3, red thread). Repeat the thread path. Secure the thread and trim.

Ear wire: Attach 1 ear wire to the jump ring, opening and closing the ear-wire loop as you would a jump ring.

2) Repeat Step 1 for a second earring. ●

SANDIE BACHAND borrows color and design cues from nature. She greets each day as a new adventure in creative beading discoveries. Sandie lives in North Georgia with her husband, Don, and two cats, who are currently enamored with beading thread.

RESOURCES Check your favorite bead retailer or contact: Seed beads, hex beads, � ndings, and FireLine braided beading thread: Bead Gallery, (707) 447-1777, www.beadgalleryca.com. SuperDuo 2-hole seed beads: Bello Modo: (360) 357-3443, www.bellomodo.com. Pearls: Shipwreck Beads, (800) 950-4232, www.shipwreckbeads.com. Swarovski crystal rivoli: BeadwareIL, www.beadwareil.etsy.com.

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Combine spike pendants, crystal rivolis, and cylinder and seed beads for sleek, modern earrings made with herringbone and peyote stitches.

Point the Way Earrings GLORIANNE LJUBICH

56-59 Ljubich-Point the Way Earrings.indd 56 8/6/15 10:24 AM

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TECHNIQUEScircular and tubular peyote stitchescircular herringbone stitch

PROJECT LEVEL ££¡

MATERIALS1 g transparent amber AB luster size 15° seed

beads (A)1 g transparent taupe size 15° seed beads (B)2 g metallic teaberry luster size 11° cylinder

beads (C)2 g transparent taupe AB size 11° cylinder

beads (D)4 greige 4mm crystal bicones (E)2 foil-back crystal rose patina 12mm rivolis2 crystal rose patina 15×28mm spike pendants 1 pair of sterling silver 15×21mm French ear

wiresCrystal 6 lb FireLine braided beading threadThread conditioner

TOOLSScissors Size 12 beading needle2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers

FINISHED SIZE3"

1) BEZEL. Use circular herringbone and cir-cular and tubular peyote stitches to create a square base and a bezel for the rivoli:Bezel Rounds 1 and 2: Use 3½' of thread to

string {1C, 1A, 1C, and 3D} four times, leav-ing a 6" tail. Use the working and tail threads to tie a knot and pass through the first C strung (Fig. 1, purple thread). Note: Step up for this and subsequent rounds by passing through the first bead added in the current round.

Bezel Round 3: String 1C, 1A, and 1C; skip 1A of the previous rounds and pass through the following C. String 1D; skip 1D of the previous rounds and pass through the following D. String 1D; skip 1D of the previous rounds and pass through the fol-lowing C. Repeat from the beginning of this round three times (Fig. 1, green thread).

Bezel Round 4: String 1C, 1A, and 1C; skip 1A of Bezel Round 3 and pass through the following C. String 1D and pass through the next D of Bezel Round 3; repeat. String 1D; pass through the next C of Bezel Round 3. Repeat from the beginning of this round three times (Fig. 1, blue thread).

Bezel Round 5: String 1C, 1A, and 1C; skip 1A of Bezel Round 4 and pass through the next C. String 1D and pass through the next D of Bezel Round 4; repeat twice. String 1D; pass through the next C of Bezel Round 4. Repeat from the beginning of this round three times. Weave through beads to exit from the second C added in Bezel Round 3 (Fig. 1, red thread).

Bezel Round 6: Note: This round begins to form the sides of the bezel off of Bezel Round 3 of the square base. String 1D and pass through the next D of Bezel Round 3; repeat. String 1D; pass through the next C of Bezel Round 3. String 1C; skip 1A of Bezel Round 3 and pass through the next C of Bezel Round 3. Repeat from the begin-ning of this round three times (Fig. 2, blue thread).

Bezel Round 7: String 1D and pass through the next D of Bezel Round 6; repeat. String 1D; pass through the next C of Bezel Round 6. String 1D; pass through the next D of Bezel Round 6. Repeat from the beginning of this round three times (Fig. 2, red thread). Place 1 rivoli faceup into the cup formed by Bezel Rounds 6 and 7 so the back of the rivoli touches Bezel Rounds 1 and 2.

Bezel Round 8: String 1D and pass through the next D of Bezel Round 7; repeat. String 1A; pass through the next D of Bezel Round 7. String 1D; pass through the next D of Bezel Round 7. Repeat from the beginning of this round three times (Fig. 3, turquoise thread).

Bezel Round 9: String 1B and pass through the next D of Bezel Round 8; repeat eleven times (Fig. 3, purple thread).

Bezel Round 10: String 1A and pass through the next B of Bezel Round 9; repeat eleven times (Fig. 3, black thread). Weave through beads to exit from 1A of Bezel Round 5 (Fig. 3, green thread).

Ear-wire loop: String 5A; pass through the last A exited. Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Pass through the next C of Bezel Round 5 (Fig. 3, blue thread).

Bezel Round 11: String 1B and pass through the next D of Bezel Round 5; repeat three times. String 1B; pass through the next 1C/1A/1C of Bezel Round 5. Repeat from the beginning of this round three times (Fig. 3, red thread). Secure and trim the threads.

Fig. 2: Adding Bezel Rounds 6 and 7

Fig. 1: Stitching Bezel Rounds 1–5

Fig. 3: Completing Bezel Rounds 8–11 and adding the ear wire loop

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2) TRIANGLE. Use circular herringbone and peyote stitches to create a folded triangle bail:Triangle Round 1: Use 3½' of new thread to

string 4C, leaving a 6" tail. Pass through all the beads again, then tie a knot with the working and tail threads and pass through the first C strung (Fig. 4, purple thread).

Triangle Round 2: String 2C and pass through the next C of Triangle Round 1; repeat three times (Fig. 4, brown thread). Note: Step up for this and subsequent rounds by passing through the first bead added in the current round.

Triangle Round 3: String 2C; pass through the next C of Triangle Round 2. String 1D; pass through the next C of Triangle Round 2. Repeat from the beginning of this round three times (Fig. 4, green thread).

Triangle Round 4: String 2C; pass through the next C of Triangle Round 3. String 1D; pass through the next D of Triangle Round 3. String 1D; pass through the next C of Triangle Round 3. Repeat from the begin-ning of this round three times (Fig. 4, blue thread).

Triangle Round 5: String 2C; pass through the next C of Triangle Round 4. String 1B and pass through the next D of Triangle Round 4; repeat. String 1D; pass through the next C of Triangle Round 4. Repeat from the begin-ning of this round three times (Fig. 4, red thread).

Triangle Round 6: String 2C; pass through the next C of Triangle Round 5. String 1D and pass through the next D of Triangle Round 5; repeat twice. String 1D; pass through the next C of Triangle Round 5. Repeat from the beginning of this round three times (Fig. 5, green thread).

Triangle Round 7: String 2C; pass through the next C of Triangle Round 6. String 1D and pass through the next D of Triangle Round 6; repeat three times. String 1D; pass through the next C of Triangle Round 6. Repeat from the beginning of this round three times (Fig. 5, blue thread).

Triangle Round 8: String 2C; pass through the next C of Triangle Round 7. String 1B and pass through the next D of Triangle Round 7; repeat four times. String 1B; pass through the next C of Triangle Round 7. Repeat from the beginning of this round three times (Fig. 5, red thread). Fold the top and bot-tom points of the beadwork toward each other to form a triangular shape, with the thread exiting the left edge of the fold.

Fig. 4: Stitching Triangle Rounds 1–5

Fig. 5: Completing Triangle Rounds 6–8

Fig. 6: Joining the bezel and the triangle

Fig. 7: Adding the spike

artist’s tipAfter assembling the earring, rock the triangle bail back and forth so the point of the bezel’s base nestles into the center of the bail.

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3) JOIN. *String 1A, 1E, and 1A; pass up through the 1A/1C of Bezel Round 5 and the nearest A of Bezel Round 11 on the left cor-ner of the bezel. Pass back through the near-est C of Bezel Round 4, working back toward the left corner. Skip the last A exited in Bezel

Round 11 and pass back through the last 1C/1A exited in Bezel Round 5 and the last 1A/1E added. String 1A; pass back through the C on the other side of the fold that sits next to the last C exited in Triangle Round 8** (Fig. 6, green thread). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Weave through beads to exit from the C on the opposite end of the triangle that corresponds to the current C (Fig. 6, blue thread). Repeat from * to ** on the right corner of the bezel (Fig. 6, red thread).

4) SPIKE. Weave through beads of the trian-gle to exit from 1C of Triangle Round 8 at the bottom front point of the triangle (Fig. 7, green thread). String 1A; pass up through the next 4C, with the thread exiting back toward the other half of the triangle. String 1 spike pendant; pass down through the mir-ror 4C of the back half of the triangle (Fig. 7, blue thread). String 1A; pass up through the next 4C, back through the spike pendant, and down through the mirror 4C on the front

half of the triangle (Fig. 7, red thread). Repeat the thread paths that connect the spike pendant to reinforce. Secure and trim the threads.

5) EAR WIRE. Attach 1 ear wire to the ear-wire loop by opening and closing the ear-wire loop as you would a jump ring.

6) Repeat Steps 1–5 for a second earring. ●

GLORIANNE LJUBICH started creating jewelry in 2000. She found her passion in beadweaving, engaging her inner geek by engineering and constructing new designs. She teaches her designs in Seattle, Washington, and her designs have appeared in several publications, including Beadwork magazine. To contact her or see more of her designs, visit www.zazzijewelrydesign.etsy.com.

RESOURCES Check your favorite bead retailer or contact: All materials: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559.

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LET US INSPIRE the Artist in YouFrom cover to cover, Jewelry Artist brings you unique jewelry and gem projects in an easy-to-follow format.

SUBSCRIBE TODAY!jewelryartistmagazine.com

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| Tools & Supplies• 22-gauge gold silver-plated craft wire

• 24-gauge gold silver-plated craft wire

• 4x2mm clear faceted CZ rondelles, 32

• 5x7mm clear faceted CZ briolettes, 2

• 7x4mm clear faceted CZ rondelles, 2

• Gold-fi lled ear wires, 1 pair

• Round-nose pliers with at least 1�½ " jaws

• Flush cutters

• Nylon-jaw pliers

• Chain-nose pliers

• Flat-nose pliers

FINISHED SIZE: 23⁄4"

RESOURCES: All materials: Soft Flex Company, softfl excompany.com.

champagne fl utesBY Jamie Hogsett

The CZ beads in these easy-to-make wrapped wire earrings cluster at the top of the dangle, just as champagne bubbles fl oat to the top of a glass.

skill level jewelry PROJECTS

Easy, ELEGANT and avant garde wire &

CRYSTAL earrings.

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1. Unwind a few feet of 24-gauge wire from the spool. Without cutting any wire from the spool string sixteen 4x2mm rondelles. Push the beads up the wire toward the spool, as you won't use them until later. Leaving a 1�½ " tail, wrap the wire around one jaw of the pliers, beginning at the widest end and wrapping toward the point.

2. Once you reach the point, begin overlapping the wire and wrapping back toward the tail wire. Wrap all the way back toward the tail wire, keeping the wire wraps tight together closer to the point of the pliers and gradually leaving more space between wraps as the wraps get closer to the tail wire.

3. Start wrapping the wire back toward the point. String 1 rondelle up into the wrap. *Wrap the wire 2�¼ times and string 1 rondelle up into the wrap. Repeat from * six times.

4. Wrap the wire back toward the tail wire. String 1 rondelle up into the wrap. *Wrap the wire 2�¼ times and string 1 rondelle up into the wrap. Repeat from * six times.

5. Wrap the wire all the way back down to the point again, and back toward the beads again, leaving space between the wraps. Wrap a few times back down toward the point. Cut the wire from the spool and tuck the wire end into the wraps. Remove the wrapped piece from the pliers. Set aside.

1a 1b

2a

3

2b

4

5a 5b

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4a

7a

6b6a

8a

7b

8b

6. Use 5" of 22-gauge wire to form a wrapped loop that attaches to 1 briolette. Use the 22-gauge wire to string the wrapped piece set aside in Step 5 (point fi rst).

7. String one 7x4mm rondelle. Snug the wrapped piece and rondelle and form a wrapped loop.

8. Wrap the tail end of wire around the wrapped piece and the rondelle. Tuck the wire end into the wire wraps. Attach 1 ear wire to the wrapped loop. Repeat Steps 1–8 to make a second earring.

028 SW1112_ChampagneFlutes.indd 30 10/11/11 10:39 AM10112011103956

JAMIE HOGSETT is a bead lover, jewelry designer, freelance editor, and the Education Coordinator for Soft Flex Company. She is a Swarovski Elements Ambassador and was a Designer of the Year for Beadwork magazine in 2009. Jamie is the author of Stringing Style and the co-author of the Create Jewelry series: Pearls, Crystals, Stones and Glass, all from Interweave Press. Her work has been published numerous times in a

multitude of books and magazines by Interweave.

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Artist’s Tip For a matching collar necklace, link several more snowflakes together.TECHNIQUES

circular peyote stitchright-angle weave

PROJECT LEVEL

Create a wintery bracelet of delicate snowflakes woven with two-hole seed beads. Use a different colorway for each season, or weave individual snowflakes for a pair of matching earrings.

snowflakes braceletC I N D Y H O L S C L A W

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2) LINKS. Use right-angle weave to link the snowflakes:Unit 1: String 1B, 1E, 1B, 1D, 1B, 1E, and

1B; pass through the last D exited, weave through all the beads again, and exit from the D added in this round (Fig. 4, blue thread).

1) SNOWFLAKE 1. Use circular peyote stitch to form a snowflake:Round 1: Use 6' of thread to string {1F, 1C,

1E, and 1C} six times, leaving a 6" tail; pass through all of the beads again to form a tight circle. Exit through the first F strung. Note: Pass through only one set of holes of the F in Rounds 1–3; leave the second set of holes empty until Round 4.

Round 2: String 1C, 1D, and 1C; then pass through the next F of Round 1, pushing the C and E beads of Round 1 down behind the C/D/C beads just added; repeat five times for a total of 6 sets of C/D/C. Step up through the first C and D added in this round (Fig. 1).

Round 3: String 3A and pass through the next D of Round 2; repeat five times for a total of 18A. Pass through the first 3A added in this round and pull tight, then pass through the next D and C of Round 2 (Fig. 2, blue thread).

Round 4: *String 3B; pass through the sec-ond hole of the nearest F. String 3B; pass through the next C/D/C of Round 2. Repeat from * five times to add 3B on each side of each F. Step up through the first 3B added in this round (Fig. 2, red thread).

Round 5: Flip the beadwork over so that the front of the snowflake is facing you. String 1B, 1D, and 1B and pass through the next 3B of Round 4, the nearest E of Round 1, and the next 3B of Round 4; repeat five times for a total of 6 sets of B/D/B. Step up through the first B and D added in this round (Fig. 3).

Fig. 1: Forming Round 2 of Snowflake 1 Fig. 2: Stitching Rounds 3 and 4 of Snowflake 1

Fig. 3: Adding Round 5 of Snowflake 1

Fig. 4: Adding the first link

Unit 2: String 1B, 1F, and 1B; pass through the last D exited and the first B/F just strung, then string 3B and pass through the second hole of the F (Fig. 4, red thread). Note: The F just placed is the starting bead of the next snowflake, the B/D/B just placed is part of the next snowflake’s Round 5, and the 3B just placed are part of the next snowflake’s Round 4.

3) SNOWFLAKES 2–7 AND LINKS. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 six times to stitch a total of 7 snowflakes connected at oppo-site points by 6 links, ensuring that all of the snowflakes are faceup. Note that for these subsequent snowflakes, you will only need to add one 3B set on the existing F between snowflakes in Round 4 and

MATERIALS1 g metallic bronze size 15° seed beads (A)2 g matte metallic blue patina size 15° seed

beads (B)2 g matte metallic blue patina size 11° seed

beads (C)1 g metallic bronze size 11° seed beads (D)2 g antique gold–lined transparent light

green AB 3mm or 2.8mm drops (E)4 g terra pearl emerald 5×2mm 2-hole seed

beads (F)Green size B nylon beading thread

TOOLSScissorsSize 11 or 12 beading needle

FINISHED SIZE: 7¼"

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CINDY HOLSCLAW is a bead artist and scientist specializing in geometric beaded structures. Her foundation as an academic shapes her approach to beadwork designs and her skills as a teacher. To see more of her work and to purchase her beading patterns and kits, please visit www.beadorigami.com.

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads and 2.8mm drops: Caravan Beads, (800) 230-8941, www.caravanbeads.net. Seed beads, 3mm magatama drops, and Nymo nylon beading thread: Out On A Whim, (800) 232-3111, www.whimbeads.com. Twins (2-hole seed beads): Shipwreck Beads, (800) 950-4232, www.shipwreckbeads.com.

String 1B; pass back through the last D added, making sure the hole sits parallel to those of the F beads. String 1B; pass through the other hole of the F exited at the beginning of this step, the first hole of this F, and through the next B/D (Fig. 7, red thread).

Clasp chain: String {1B and 1D} three times, then string 1B and pass through the last D exited and the next B/D/B/D (Fig. 8, green thread); repeat twice (Fig. 8, blue thread) or as many times as needed for length. String 1B, 1E, and 1B; pass through the end D of Snowflake 7. String 1B, 1E, and 1B; pass through the last D exited on the chain and the next B/E/B (Fig. 8, red thread). Repeat the entire thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. ✦

a total of five B/D/B sets in Round 5; pass through the 3B set and B/D/B set added in the link region when you arrive at them in these rounds. Set the working thread aside. Secure the tail thread by passing it through Round 3 of the first snowflake several times to secure; trim the tail thread. Set the bracelet aside.

4) CLASP BAR. Stitch a toggle bar for the clasp:Base: Use 4' of thread to string {1F and 1C}

three times. String 1F, 1B, 1E, and 1B, leaving a 6" tail. Pass through the second hole of the last F strung. String 1C and pass through the second hole of the next F; repeat twice. String 1B, 1E, and 1B; pass through the first hole of the first F strung in this section (Fig. 5). Repeat the thread path once to reinforce, again exiting from the first hole of the first F.

Embellish: String 1D and pass through the hole of the next F that sits diagonally from the F just exited; repeat twice to add a total of 3D to the toggle (Fig. 6, blue thread). Weave through the next B/E/B/F. Pass through the last D added and the hole of the next F that sits diag-onally from the hole exited in the previ-ous F; repeat twice. Pass through the next B/E/B/F/C/F (Fig. 6, red thread).

Connector: Turn the bar over. String 1B, 1D, and 1B; pass through the hole of the next F that sits diagonally from the hole exited in the previous F and the other hole of this same F (Fig. 7, blue thread).

Fig. 5: Forming the toggle-bar base

Fig. 6: Embellishing the toggle bar

Fig. 7: Adding the clasp-bar connector

Fig. 8: Forming the clasp chain

OptionThese snowflakes make great earrings. Stitch one snowflake and add a six-bead loop of B to one point in Round 5 to link the snowflake to an ear wire. Repeat for the matching earring.

Back of purple variation

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FRINGEExit from the foundation row of beads or fabric. String a length of beads plus 1 bead. Skipping the last bead, pass back through all the beads just strung to form a fringe leg. Pass back into the foundation row or fabric.

SQUARE STITCHString a row of beads. For the second row, string 2 beads; pass through the second-to-last bead of the first row and through the second bead just strung. Continue by stringing 1 bead, passing through the third-to-last bead of the first row, and through the bead just strung. Repeat this looping technique to the end of the row.

PICOTA picot is a decorative net, most often made with 3 beads, used to embellish a beadwork surface.

RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVEFor one-needle right-angle weave, string 4 beads and pass through the first 3 beads again to form the first unit. For the rest of the row, string 3 beads and pass through the last bead exited in the previous unit and the first 2 beads just strung; the thread path will resemble a series of figure eights, alternating direction with each unit. To begin the next row, pass through beads to exit from the top bead of the last unit. String 3 beads and pass through the last bead exited and the first bead just strung. *String 2 beads; pass back through the next top bead of the previous row, the last bead exited in the previous unit, and the 2 beads just strung. Pass through the next top bead of the previous row. String 2 beads; pass through the last bead of the previous unit, the top bead just exited, and the first bead just strung. Repeat from * to complete the row, then begin a new row as before.

To begin two-needle right-angle weave, add a needle to each end of the thread. Use one needle to string 3 beads and slide them to the center of the thread. *Use one needle to string 1 bead, then pass the other needle back through it. String 1 bead on each nee-dle, then repeat from * to form a chain of right-angle-weave units. To turn at the end of the row, use the left needle to string 3 beads, then cross the right needle back through the last bead strung. Use the left needle to string 3 beads, then cross the right needle back through the last bead strung. To continue the row, use the right needle to string 2 beads; pass the left nee-dle through the next bead on the previous row and back through the last bead strung.

PEYOTE STITCHFor circular peyote stitch, string 3 beads and knot the tail and working threads to form the first round; pass through the first bead strung. For the second round, string 2 beads and pass through the next bead of the previous round; repeat twice. To step up to the third round, pass through the first bead of the current round. For the third round, string 1 bead and pass through the next bead of the previous round; repeat around, then step up at the end of the round. Continue in this manner, alternating the two previous rounds. It may be neces-sary to adjust the bead count, depending on the relative size of the beads, to keep the circle flat.

For even-count tubular peyote stitch, string an even number of beads and knot the tail and working threads to form the first 2 rounds; pass through the first 2 beads strung. To work Round 3, string 1 bead, skip 1 bead, and pass through the next bead; repeat around until you have added half the number of beads in the first round. Step up through the first bead added in this round. For the following rounds, string 1 bead and pass through the next bead of the previous round; repeat, stepping up at the end of each round.

Work odd-count tubular peyote stitch the same as even-count tubular peyote stitch; however, it isn’t necessary to step up at the end of each round.

HERRINGBONE STITCHForm a foundation row of one- or two- needle even-count ladder stitch and exit up through the final bead. String 2 beads, pass down through next bead in the ladder, and pass up through the following bead; repeat to the end of the row. Step up for the next row by wrapping the thread around previ-ous threads to exit up through the last bead strung. To form the next row, string 2 beads and pass down through the second-to-last bead of the previous row and up through the following bead. Repeat, stringing 2 beads per stitch, passing down then up through 2 beads of the previous row and stepping up as before. The 2-bead stitch will cause the beads to angle in each col-umn, like a herringbone fabric.

Begin tubular herringbone stitch with a foundation ring of one- or two-needle even-count ladder stitch. String 2 beads. Pass down through the next bead and up through the following bead in the ladder. Repeat around the ring. At the end of the round, pass through the first beads of the previous and current rounds to step up to the new round.

Project RatingOur three-level project rating system is found on the opening page of some of the projects.

BEGINNER LEVELQuick and easy

INTERMEDIATE LEVEL Moderate time commitment

ADVANCED LEVELLonger time commitment

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