Peak District Bouldering Guidebook Sample

The most comprehensive guide available to bouldering in the Peak District.Thousands of boulder problems, from Font 3 to 8b+, on three different rock types.

Written by local boulderers and supported by many more, all with a passion for – and an encyclopedic knowledge of – bouldering in the Peak.

‘Although there are many bouldering venues around the world, I have yet to come across one that stirs up such feelings in both locals and foreigners as the Peak District.

I feel very fortunate to have lived on its doorstep these past 25 years.’Ben Moon

£25.00

9 781906 148270 >

ISBN 9781906148270

PEAK DISTRICTBOULDERING

PEAK DISTRICTBOULDERINGRupert Davies John Coefi eld Jon Barton

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2 Peak district bouldering

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3contents

copyright© 2011 Vertebrate Graphics Ltd, Rupert Davies, John coefield & Jon Barton

Published by Vertebrate Publishing

All rights reserved. no part of this work covered by copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic or mechanised, including photocopying, recording, taping or information storage and retrieval systems – without the written permission of the publisher.

IsBn: 9781906148270

cover photo: Dave norton on Low Rider, stanage Far Left. Photo: Dave Parry.All other photos as credited.

Designed & produced by nathan Ryder www.v-graphics.co.uk

Printed in china.

Foreword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6What’s in and what’s not . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Safety statement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Access . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Behaviour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Respecting the rocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Names and first ascents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Stars/Grades/Map key . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Useful information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Other publications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Peak District area map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Eastern CragsWharncliffe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Bell Hagg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Fox Hagg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Wyming Brook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33Rivelin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Derwent Edges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Smallfield Roof & Hurkling Stones . . . . 52Bamford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54Stanage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Far Left . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Middle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 The Buckstone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 The Plantation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Far Right . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Popular End & Carhead Rocks . . . . . . . . . 104Burbage Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Burbage Bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Burbage North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Burbage South . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Burbage South Boulders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Burbage West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Higgar Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Guplets Wall, Carl Wark

& The Sheepfold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154

Houndkirk Tor & Ox Stones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Millstone Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Millstone Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Mother Cap, Mother’s Pet Rock

& Owler Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Secret Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170White Edge, Yarncliffe Quarry & Padley Gorge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Froggatt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Curbar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Baslow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Gardom’s Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Gardom’s North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Gardom’s Crag Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Gardom’s South & Moorside Rocks . . 232Birchen Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236Stump Hole Cavern, Chatsworth Edge & Dobb Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Cratcliffe Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Cratcliffe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Robin Hood’s Stride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Clifftop Boulder & Harthill Quarry . . 266 Eagle Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Rowtor Rocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Stanton Moor & Stanton

in the Woods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Amber Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 Eastwood Rocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Cocking Tor & Turning Stone Edge . . 294 Bradley Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300Matlock Area – North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Beeley Hilltop: Rabbit Warren

& Harland Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Upper Matlock Quarries:

Bank Quarry & Jackson Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306Matlock Area – South . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Black Rocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Chasecliffe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Shining Cliff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315

Western CragsThe Churnet Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 Ousal Dale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Dimmings Dale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324The Roaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332 Spring Boulders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Lower Tier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 Upper Tier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Roaches Skyline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 The Five Clouds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 Nth Cloud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 Hen Cloud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Gradbach Hill & Bosley Cloud . . . . . . . . . 368Ramshaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370Newstones & Baldstones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378Gib Torr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386Wolf Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390New Mills Torrs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394Hobson Moor Quarry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398Tintwistle Knarr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402Black Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408Wimberry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414

Limestone CragsStoney Middleton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 426Tideswell Dale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438Castleton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439Rubicon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440Raven Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444Blackwell Dale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452Alport Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458 Nuda’s Tartan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460 Rheinstor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461Harborough Rocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462The Tube – Dove Dale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468

Graded List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476

Peak District Bouldering Contents


Peak District a

rea map

eastern crags PA

Ge

1 W

harncliffe ......................................................... 202

Bell Hagg ............................................................. 28

3 Rivelin .................................................................. 34

4 D

erwent Edges ................................................... 40

5 Bam

ford .............................................................. 546

Stanage ............................................................... 587

Burbage Valley .................................................. 1068

Millstone A

rea .................................................. 1609

White Edge, Yarncliffe Q

uarry &

Padley Gorge ................................................. 174

10 Froggatt ............................................................. 17611 C

urbar ................................................................ 19412 Baslow

............................................................... 21013 G

ardom’s Edge .................................................. 222

14 Birchen Edge ..................................................... 23615 Stum

p Hole Cavern, Chatsw

orth Edge &

Dobb Edge ...................................................... 244

16 Cratcliffe A

rea ................................................... 24617 A

mber Valley ..................................................... 288

18 Matlock A

rea – North ...................................... 302

19 Matlock A

rea – South ...................................... 308

Western crags

PAG

e

20 The C

hu

rnet Valley ........................................... 318

21 The Roach

es ...................................................... 33222 Ram

shaw .......................................................... 370

23 New

stones & Baldston

es ................................ 37824 G

ib Torr .............................................................. 38625 W

olf Edge .......................................................... 39026 N

ew M

ills Torrs ................................................. 39427 H

obson Moor Q

uarry ....................................... 398

28 Tintwistle K

narr ................................................ 40229 Black Tor ............................................................ 40830 W

imberry .......................................................... 414

limestone crags

31 Stoney M

iddleton ............................................. 42632 Tidesw

ell Dale .................................................. 438

33 Castleton ........................................................... 43934 Ru

bicon .............................................................. 44035 Raven Tor ........................................................... 44436 Blackw

ell Dale .................................................. 452

37 Alport A

rea ........................................................ 45838 H

arborough Rocks ............................................ 462

39 The Tube – D

ove Dale ...................................... 468

HatHersage

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1

17

9

25

5

3

7

15

31

2

10

6

14

30

4

78

16

10101112

19

18

20

21

23

21212122 232323 24

29

27

26

28

3634

35

33

35

32

3839

37

141212

13



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Birchen edgeBetter known as a low-grade route crag than a bouldering venue, Birchen Edge now has a number of very good boulder problems. In addition, many of the shorter routes have been re-evaluated while wearing bouldering goggles, resulting in a great circuit with problems from very easy to 7c+. the better problems along the edge are in the 6b–7c+ range while the Three Ships boulders provide good easier problems in a lovely setting.

237eAsteRn cRAGs – BIRCHEN EDGE

SHEFFIELD

CHESTERFIELD

HATHERSAGE

BAKEWELL

BASLOW

BAMFORD

GRINDLEFORD

RINGINGLOW

A619

A632A6

A623

A61

A621

A625

A57

A6102M

ORTIM

ER

(STRINES)

RD.

B6001

A619

B6051

M1

STOCKSBRIDGE

GLOSSOP

BUXTON

MATLOCK

Rivelin

Burbage Valley

FroggattCurbar

Gardom’s

Stoney Middleton

Baslow

White Edge

Millstone Area

Bell Hagg

Wharncliffe

Stanage

Birchen

Bamford

Derwent Edge

Chatsworth & Dobb Edge

Burbage Valley

FroggattCurbar

Gardom’s

Birchen

Chatsworth & Dobb Edge

Stoney Middleton

Baslow

White Edge

Millstone Area

Bell Hagg

Wharncliffe

StanageBamford

Derwent Edge

Rivelin

A621

MoorsideRocks

Birchen Edge

Gardom’s North

Gardom’s South

Gardom’sMain Edge

Baslow Edge

Eagle Stone

MoorsideRocks

Stump Hole Cavern

Stump Hole Cavern

Birchen Edge

Gardom’s North

Gardom’s South

Gardom’sMain Edge

Baslow Edge

Eagle Stone

A619

A621

0 miles

0 km

1

1

ROBINHOOD INN

BASLOW

SHEF

FIEL

D

CHESTERFIELD

Chatsworth EdgeChatsworth Edge

Dobb EdgeDobb Edge

access and approach

Park in the public car park next to the Robin Hood Inn, on the B6050, just off the A619, or in the over-flow in the field . Only use the pub car park if using the pub . Walk a short distance up the B6050 and take an obvious path on the left . This leads up to the crag after a 10–15 minute walk . The crag is visible on the right of the path . The Three Ships boulders are situated on top of the crag, behind the monument .


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The Three shipsThree excellent boulders with easy problems up to 6b and perfect, flat grassy landings . Endless variations can be climbed . The main lines are described . Mind the ledge above the Defiance and Royal Soverin boulders .

Victory1 orion 5+

The scoop . Awkward .

2 neptune 4 Sidepulls right of the scoop .

3 euryalus 4The left side of the front face, finishing at the bowl . Sit-start at 4+ .

4 v for victory 3+ Û

Straight up past the chipped ‘Victory’ . A line just right of the ‘Y’ in Victory is 4 .

5 Prow left 4 Û

The left side of the prow, finishing with the crack .

6 Prow Right 4+ Û

The prow, staying right, from a sit-start . Dyno from a sit-start to the top at 5+ . Double dyno at 6a .

7 victor’s ledge 3Make a move to the top and mantel out .

THE CABIN

TECHNICAL GENIUSAREA

HORNBLOWERAREA

COPENHAGENWALL SEASICK ARÊTE

THREE SHIPS

NELSON’SMONUMENT


defiance8 Finisterre 3+

The wall past the chipped ‘Defiance’ .

9 st vincent 4+ Û

Sit-start into the crack .

10 Calvi 4+The scoop .

11 aboukir 4The wall to a sloping dish finish .

12 Tenerife 4+ Ù

Sit-start the prow/bulge on the right . A rare thing: a good, steep easy problem .

royal soverin13 Royal 4+

Sit-start the wall .

14 Bilge 4Sit-start the arête . Starting up Royal and traversing right to finish up Bilge is 5 .

15 Buccaneer 4Sit-start the arête right again .

16 orlop 5Sit-start the overhang at the left side of the big roof and pull up to more big holds .


VICTORY DEFIANCE ROYAL SOVERIN

CRAG 30M

12

3

4 5

6

7

8

910

11

12 13

14 15

16


The edgeThe problems on the edge itself start at the left-hand end, behind a pinnacle . See topo on p238 .

the cabinSituated on the rear of the pinnacle next to the scramble to the top of the edge . Two or more pads are useful .

1 Disabled seaman 6a+The left arête .

2 Cabin Boy 7a Û

Dyno from crimps to top . 6c with the sidepull .

3 log 5The right arête .

4 Dan’s arête 6c+Situated on a block down and left (when looking at the edge) from the Cabin Boy pinnacle . Climb the left face and arête from a sit-start .

technical genius areaOn the edge in front of, and to the right of, The Cabin .

5 kiss me arsee 7a Û

Sit-start the left arête of the block . Very good .

6 kiss me softly 6a+Sit-start the right arête .

7 Roger the Cabin Boy 6cThe left arête from a sit-start, using anything in reach on the block .

8 Technical genius 7a Û

Start matched on the rounded flake and pull to slopers . 7a+ from a sit-start . Mark Katz


5 6

78

1

2

3

4


Hornblower area9 gritstone megamix 7a Ù

Cross the roof on the left and climb the wall above . Highball . See photo on p236 . John Allen

10 gritstone mashup mix 7a+As for Gritstone Megamix to the lip, then traverse the lip left to finish up the arête . Highball . Ben Bransby

11 hms Daring 7b+ Ù

The excellent highball arête, climbed on the left . Bob Smith

12 splendide audax 7c Û

The arête on the right-hand side . Deadpoint to a pocket . Ben Bransby

13 Thing on a spring 6c+ Û

The wall immediately left of the gulley . Sit-start on undercuts, up to slopey crimps and pop for the break .

14 oarsman arête 6b+

The left arête and crack . 6c from sitting .

15 oarsman 6b+ Û

Layback the crack on its right . Sit-start is 7a+ (no footblock left of the crack) . Mark Stokes

16 ‘oar ‘ouse/hornblower left-hand 7aThe wall between Hornblower and Oarsman . Start with right hand in the crack of Hornblower . Escape left at the break or finish above .

17 hornblower 6c Ù

The wall left of the prow, starting left hand in the low crack/seam . Finish up the easy but high slabs above .

18 obstructive Pensioner 7a+ Û

The roof and hanging prow, starting on the break under the roof . A right-hand variation climbs up slopers on the right arête of the prow at the same grade . Nik Jennings

19 Jumpers for Trousers 7c+ Û

The wall right of the prow, starting under the roof . The problem does not use the holds on the arête to the left, nor the big flake to the right . Ben Bransby


10

911 12

13

14 15 1617 18 19


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copenhagen Wall20 Copenhagen Corner 4 Û

The flakey sidewall .

21 scandiarête 6aThe left arête of Copenhagen Wall, starting on the right-hand side .

22 Dane’s Delight 5Span between two breaks and up . Dane’s Disgust (5) climbs the wall to the right, past the flake, while Carlsberg Export (6b+) climbs the wall right again, without any of the good flakes or pockets .

23 mP3 7b Û

Start under the roof, span to polished slopers then left to a larger polished hold . Rock/span to the break and finish up the wall above .

24 mermaid 7cStart as for MP3 to the big polished hold, but continue to traverse left via a poor pinch and slopers to finish up the wall 2m right of the arête . Mark Evans

25 Chasing the Dragon 7cSomething of an enigma . The problem is found on the slabby, undercut boulder right of, and below, Copenhagen wall (while facing Baslow) . Sit-start on the left side of the long pod under the lip, traverse right, dyno for a flake and finish up the right arête . Mark Evans


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26 lowside 6c+ Û

A low start to the arête, reaching out to crimps on the lip and then around left to the flake .

27 The Buccaneer 7aLean across to the sloping pocket at 10ft (and the crack if you can reach) from the block on the right . Pull boldly up to better holds in the hanging crack . Not a great landing, sadly .

The Brigand 7c+A direct start to The Buccaneer, from really poor holds below . Mark Katz

28 sodomy 6c Û

Around to the right is an undercut, slabby buttress . Traverse the lip from right to left on pockets, finishing up before the crack/arête .

29 men United 6a15m below and to the right of The Brigand is a lone obelisk . Climb the left arête on the right-hand side .

seasick arete30 seasick arête 4+ Ù

The polished arête bears the scars of its classic status . Ernie Marshall

31 seasick slab 4 Û

The wall to the right .


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Peak District Bouldering Guidebook Sample

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