Patos - NW Explorations

PatosA 46’ Grand Banks Classic Yacht

Operating ManualEdition of April 1, 2017 • Copyrighted. See notice next page.

Section Contents

1 Introduction & General Boat Description

2 Important Vessel Numbers

3 Operating Checklists & Maneuvering Suggestions

4 Specific Discussion of Boat Systems

5 “What to Do” for Some Specific Concerns

6 EMERGENCY PROCEDURES

7 Index

2 | PATOS OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations

Warning!This notice is a part of this manual, and is placed here to warn you as an owner, crew member or passenger on this vessel that the author of this manual assumes no responsibility for any errors or omissions herein, and represents only that the writings and illustrations herein represent his “best efforts” to provide a comprehensive overview of the vessel, so that it can be operated by a person who has the necessary experience and/or training to operate such a vessel given the additional information herein.

You should be aware that this operating manual is provided as a convenience to the owner(s), crew members and passengers on this vessel, and is not complete in every detail. Given the complexity of this boat and its systems, there is no way that all conditions, contingencies, and operating details can be covered, both because of space limitations and because of ordinary oversight as contingencies are speculated upon by the author. Likewise, it is possible either through oversight and/or changes in the vessel as a result of additions, modifications, or deletions to or of equipment since publication of this manual, that items discussed will operate differently than described, be absent from the vessel, or be added to the vessel without discussion in this volume.

As a vessel owner, crew member or passenger on this vessel, you are here at your own risk, and the author of this manual has no responsibility for your actions whatsoever. If you do not feel competent to undertake any or all operations detailed herein, do not undertake it/them; get help from a competent person.

I thank you, (and my lawyer thanks you.)

Copyright 2012 Joseph D. Coons

This manual was written for this boat’s owner and it’s charter company by Joseph D. Coons, 1220 Birch Falls Drive, Bellingham, WA 98229, tel (360) 647-0288, email [email protected].

All rights reserved. This manual may not be quoted, copied, or duplicated, in whole or in part, in printed or electronic form, without express written consent from the author.

About the AuthorJoe Coons is a retired AM-FM broadcasting station owner and computer systems corporate executive who throughout his life was involved in communications and mechanical, electrical, and electronic systems. He cruised his own boat on the Hudson River and Lake Champlain when a teen and in his early twenties, and during the 70’s and 80’s accumulated some 2,500 hours as an instrument-rated private pilot. Beginning in 1986 he became seriously involved in boating as a boat owner, subsequently working in a “retirement career” as a broker, also commissioning vessels, operating a charter fleet, checking out boat charterers, and training new power boaters. He has held a 50-ton Coast Guard Master’s license, and operated his own boats and a substantial number of others from 26 to 70 feet in the near- coastal waters of Washington State, British Columbia, and Alaska. His “helm time” exceeds 8,000 hours. In addition, he has trained hundreds of boaters in the skills of vessel operation.

NW Explorations PATOS OPERATING MANUAL | 3

Section 1: Introduction & General Boat Description1A: About This Manual

1A1: Manual Objective and Limitations

This manual is intended to introduce you to “Patos”, its systems, and features, allowing you to operate it with the confidence and self-assurance necessary to enjoy your cruising vacation to its fullest. It is not intended to replace a basic understanding of seamanship, including navigation skills, weather interpretation or boat handling. You are expected to have an understanding of these subjects obtained through other sources, including training, seminars, reading and perhaps most important, experience.

There is no way that a small manual like this one can answer every question or give you a solution to every circumstance, foreseen or unforeseen. If you have a question which limits your understanding or handling of this vessel, ask the owner, a specialist, or contact the Jet-Tern Marine/Grand Banks company offices for details (you might make a list of questions as you read the manual, saving them all up to ask at one time).

1A2: How the Manual is Organized

The manual is divided into six sections numbered “1” to “6” plus an index (Section 7). Within each section are subsections lettered “A” to “Z” as required.

In section 4, which deals with the specific information about the vessel’s equipment and systems, the manual is organized by major categories, such as “Anchor”, “Dinghy, Davit & Outboard”, “Fresh Water System”, etc.

Note that “Electrical System - AC” and “Electrical System-DC” are two separate categories, and within them are such items that are a part of each, such as “Inverter”, “Generator”, etc.; Likewise, all electronic equipment is in the “Electronics” section.

A complete index is at the back of the manual in Section 7.

Important Note:

All the text in this manual, and all the detail photographs, are current as of the publication date; a few of the general photographs in this manual (such as “salon” or “flybridge”) do not include

equipment that has been upgraded since the first printing.

Thank you for your understanding.


1B: General Description of this Vessel

1B1: Exterior

Flybridge, Cockpit, Side & Forward Decks

The Grand Banks 46’ Classic is a traditional yacht design, with fiberglass hull, cabin, and flybridge structures, a teak swim step, teak decks, rails, and gunwhale caps, and stainless steel welded fittings and handrails. The window frames are of painted wood with sliding glass panes, while the windshield frame is of the same material with a center- opening windshield section for ventilation.

Of particular note are the easy walk-around decks, enabling safe, secure passage about the boat by passengers and crew. A roomy cockpit section with a storage lazarette beneath is especially useful for fishing and for handling the dinghy after it is launched from its davit on the sundeck.

On the side decks are the two fuel fills, one port-side and the other starboard. A holding tank pump-out deck fitting is also here. The water tank fills are on the port side, in the side and fore decks.

Forward on the bow deck is the anchor windlass with foot switches allowing chain movement both “up” and “down” electrically. The anchor is retracted into the bow pulpit which hangs out over the bow to give better chain clearance from the hull than otherwise possible; this pulpit is strong and braced, easily supporting not only the anchor during hauling but also an attending crew member if necessary. After passing over the winch, the chain goes below decks via a hawse pipe in the foredeck.

There are shore power connections (with an adjacent fuse holder) at both the bow and stern, selected by the shore power switch in the electric panel; when this cable is to be disconnected, the switch should first be turned to the “off “ position to avoid arcing which could damage the plug contacts. The boat’s 30-amp shore power cable is 50 feet long and stays with the boat when away from its home dock.

On the bow deck is the windlass and salt water anchor washdown faucet.

Winter covers are on the rails.

The side deck photo was taken right after the boat was washed!

Shore power connection, swim shower outlet, and salt water faucet in the cockpit.


Three steps above the aft side decks is the “sun deck“. Here you will find the permanently-mounted barbeque with its own fixed propane tank, and the dinghy.

Up three steps from the sun deck is the flybridge, with seating for crew and passengers, and the upper helm station. In addition to the helm’s instruments and controls, the console has storage for the ship’s canvas covers and a space for flybridge electronics. Within the storage compartments beneath the seats you will find a complement of life jackets (on the starboard side) and the propane tank for the ship’s stove (to port).

Looking down at the sundeck, dinghy, and barbeque (in the blue cover to right) from the flybridge.

The cockpit has two large hatches into the room lazarette storage lockers. In it are stowed spare anchor and rope,

bridle, cleaning materials, outboard spare oil, etc.

The spacious flybridge; the fitted cushions for the settees are not shown.


1B2: Interior

Main Deck

The boat is entered by either side door, port or starboard. These doors are fitted with strong deadbolt locks, and in addition have stainless catches affixed to the cabin sides to hold them open; these “hold-open catches“ should be engaged manually, not just by “slamming the doors open“ to avoid damage to the catches by bending, or the doors by banging. The doors should be closed when underway except at very low speeds in calm waters to avoid getting salt water inside the doorways. The starboard and port door steps have storage beneath for shore power cord adapters, flashlights, fire extinguishers, etc.

Starboard aft in the salon is a comfy L-settee and dining table. The dry bar is in the left foreground, stateroom entry on right.

In the port aft salon corner is the TV and book racks; these chairs double at the helm. Additional chairs

aboard can be used at the dining table.

Helm and wet bar.


Salon

Forward of the starboard door is a professional- quality helm station with electric switch panels adjacent and electronics panel above holding the inverter control, the stereo, autopilot control, alarm and windshield wiper switch panel, and the speed log and depth sounder; on the helm itself are the ship’s radar, a depth sounder and GPS/plotter. In the helm cabinet is storage for manuals, tide tables, navigation tools, and charts. There are two portable, high, chairs that double as helm seats when operating from this station.

Just aft of the starboard door is a dry bar with the ship’s manuals in the bottom drawers. Aft of the bar cabinet is fitted an L-settee to starboard. The settee aft-end drawer has emergency gear (see following sections). A table in front of the settee is used for dining/cocktails.

To port in the salon is more seating when the helm chairs are moved here; there is also a large- screen flat-panel TV (with a built-in DVD player) on a swivel bracket. Forward of the port doorway is the galley. The galley has a propane stove/oven, a large stainless sink; a refrigerator/freezer under the counter; and a microwave. There is extensive storage under and over the counters, and storage holds for galley use in the forward stateroom and head compartment floors. The stove burners have a push- button “igniter” to light them; the oven requires manual pilot-lighting (a “propane match” igniter is in the galley).

From the port entry door forward are the galley upper cabinet with microwave below (the white cabinet); the refrigerator, sink and cabinets and drawers.

This view gives you an idea of the storage.


Forward Stateroom

All the way forward, the bow guest stateroom includes two large V-berths with an insert. Storage includes a hanging locker and drawers/cabinets for crew clothing. A large overhead hatch and side opening windows provide plenty of light.

Forward Head/Shower Compartment

Moving aft from the stateroom to starboard is the forward head compartment with its own shower stall and MasterFlush head and basin with vanity. There is plenty of storage in the vanity cabinet.

Guest Cabin

The port guest cabin down the steps and just forward from the galley has a double berth to port, with a dresser by the berth with a fire extinguisher above, and a hanging locker at the berth’s foot. There are drawers beneath the berth as well. Windows provide light and ventilation in this spacious room.

The forward stateroom has a V-berth with an insert to make it a spacious double.

There are drawers each side, and a freezer is in the center under this berth.

The guest head has all the amenities, including a stall shower, not in picture –behind door to

the right. (The head shownhas been replaced by a new MasterFlush unit.)

The guest stateroom to port is comfortable and well-equipped.


Aft Stateroom

The aft (master) stateroom is down a few steps from the port end of the salon. Forward to port in this stateroom is a head compartment with toilet and holding tank indicator, sink/vanity, and numerous cabinets and drawers; to starboard opposite in the cabin is the stall shower. Between these two compartments on the forward bulkhead are a huge hanging locker for clothing and the salon passageway. This stateroom features a queen-sized island berth, beneath which are drawers including a spacious and efficient chart drawer. To each side of the berth are tables with cabinets beneath, as well as storage lining the vessel’s exterior walls on each side. A vanity is aft to port beneath the emergency exit hatch.

Master Stateroom Head & Shower Compartments

Forward to port in this stateroom is a head compartment with toilet, sink/vanity, and numerous cabinets and drawers.

To starboard opposite the head compartment is the stall shower.

Between these two compartments is the stateroom-salon steps and passageway.

(The toilet shown has been replaced with a MasterFlush unit.)


1B3: Engine Room

Preferred access to the engine room is through the floor hatch by the port doorway in the salon. Engine room lighting is turned on by a breaker in the ship’s DC power panel by the helm (second down in left row); high-intensity AC lighting is also available: turn it on via the switch by the (unused) forward hatch under-stairway door inside the engine room.

Along the forward bulkhead, from port to starboard, are a shelf with the refrigeration compressors, under the shelf is the fresh water filter and (atop the hull) the port stabilizer actuator. The stabilizer system components are left of center, then a fixed fire extinguishing system, fresh water faucet and a hand-held extinguisher. Next is the unused under-stair door, the battery switches

and combiner, and the inverter. Outboard of the starboard engine are battery boxes for house/starboard engine starting battery bank (with a switch for the inverter DC supply) with the furnace above; the electric wiring cabinet, the engine muffler, and the macerator pump and its seacock, then the starboard fuel tank with sight gauge. Just inboard of these is the starboard Caterpillar 3208-N 210hp engine with its transmission and drive shaft. Just in front of it is its seacock and sea strainer.

In the center of the engine room aft is the sea strainer for the genset, the fuel manifold with Racor filters for each engine, and behind it the genset in its sound shield cabinet with a water tank beneath (the other is under the galley). Just port of the genset is its Racor; and the watermaker system’s reverse-osmosis treatment unit. To port of the port engine from forward is the water heater, the starting battery, the generator starting battery (with battery switch nearby), the watermaker control unit, and the engine muffler and port fuel tank with sight gauge. The port engine itself has its sea strainer and seacock just ahead of it; also located here is the seacock and sea strainer for the refrigeration cooling. Under the teak grid floorboard all the way forward in the E/R is the sea strainer for the watermaker.

The engine shafts lead from the transmission couplings through the hull via virtually maintenance-free shaft logs/packing glands. Also in the engine room is a supply of extra lube oil, spare parts, oil pads, etc.

Starboard forward E/R: Battery switches, inverter, autopilot electronics.

In the center of the E/R looking aft is the fuel manifold in front of the generator cabinet.

Port side of E/R forward: Shelf with refrigeration; under it is charcoal water filter; to right part of stabilizer system.

Engine Room Access Hatch


1B4: Dinghy

The boat is equipped with a four-person Glassply dinghy with an electric-start, four-stroke Honda outboard motor, control quadrant, fuel tank, pump and oars. It is carried on a powered sundeck davit.

1B5: Deck Equipment

The boat has mooring lines; a stern/shore line at least 200’ long; an appropriate all-purpose anchor with 380’ of all-chain rode plus an emergency anchor with chain and rope rode; fenders/bumpers; four deck chairs; an ice chest; a crab pot or ring with line, float, and bait rigging; a hose for fresh water tank filling and boat washing; and a boat hook.

1B6: Safety Equipment

AnchorsThere is a permanently-rigged anchor on the bow pulpit and a spare anchor in the lazarette locker that can use the stern/shore line as a rode.

BellThere is a ship’s bell in the port salon door step.

Carbon Monoxide MonitorThere is a CO monitor in the Master Stateroom.

Fire ExtinguishersThis vessel is equipped with four fire extinguishers, one each in the engine room, port guest stateroom and aft stateroom, plus a fixed automatic system in the engine room;.

First Aid KitIt is in the Master Stateroom Head vanity cabinet.

FlaresFlares are in the drawer at the aft end of the salon settee.

Life Preservers/PFD’sThere are two wearable vests in each stateroom’s hanging locker, and there are standard vests under the starboard seat on the flybridge.

A heaving line and life ring are in a hanger on the aft railing of the flybridge.

PumpsManual in the salon under the aft floor hatch, plus two electric pumps.

VHF Radios

There are VHF radios at each helm station (see Electronics, below.)

The guest stateroom to port is comfortable and well-equipped.

The manual bilge pump.


Section 2: Important Vessel NumbersVessel Name PatosVessel Official Number 964587Hull ID Number GNDF0092F090Capacities:

Sleeps six: Two in each stateroomFuel: 600 Gallons in two 300 gallon tanksFresh water: 280 Gallons in two tanksHolding Tank: 30 Gallons

Dimensions:Length on deck: 47 feet 1 inches Beam: 14 Feet 9 InchesDraft: 4 Feet 5 inchesDisplacement: 39,000 Pounds

Fluids:Motor Fuel: #2 DieselMotor Oil, mains: 15W-40 Chevron Delo MultigradeTransmission Oil: 30-weight Chevron DeloEngine Coolant: 50-50 mix, ethylene glycol & water; corrosion inhibitor added

Operating Parameters (Estimated):

RPM Speed Fuel Consumption Naut. Miles/Gallon

1600 8.0 5.5 GPH 1.45

2000 9.5 8.5 GPH 1.12

2400 10.0 15.0 GPH .67


Section 3: Checklists & Maneuvering Suggestions3A: Operating Checklists - Patos

First Thing Each Day• Check engine oil, coolant.• Check under-engine oil pads. Okay?• Check fuel tank levels (open valves on top/bottom of sight gauges to check them!)• Check holding tank indicator. Need pumping?• Turn off anchor light if illuminated.

Starting Engines• All lines clear of propellers and on deck.• Items running on AC evaluated vis-a-vis the Inverter and Generator.• Stabilizer breaker “On”.• Throttles retarded to idle, shift levers in “neutral”.• Stop solenoid breaker “On”.• Engine power switches “On”, start engines in turn.• If engines do not turn over, see “What to Do If”.

Leaving Dock (Only 3-4 minute engine warm-up required!]• Shore power switch “Off”.• Shore power cord removed, stowed on board.• Step stool aboard, if used.• Lines removed as appropriate.• Fenders hauled aboard and stowed.• Lines and other deck gear secure/stowed.• Doors and hatches closed and secured as appropriate.

Underway• Helms-person on watch at all times.• RPM under 1400 until engines warm to 140°; RPM never to exceed 2400 RPM.• Wake effects always in mind.

Approaching Dock• Fenders out on appropriate side.• Stabilizer’s in “Center” position and left ON.• Bow line OUTSIDE stanchions and bloused around toward midships.• Engines dead slow, wheel centered for engine-only maneuvering.• Mate ready to secure stern first (in most circumstances).

Arriving at Dock in Marina• Lines secure, including spring lines.• Step stool out, if needed.• When engines are shut down, Stabilizer Breaker “Off”.• Water heater breaker off until Inverter current settles (see “Inverters” below).• Shore power cord connected, shore power switch “On” to appropriate power location.• Shore power confirmed on meters, Inverter “On”, Charger “Off”.• Electric use monitored for current capacity of shore facilities.


Arriving at Mooring Buoy• Skipper puts starboard end of swim step, with mate on it, next to buoy.• Mate loops 20’ or so line, such as bow line, through buoy ring.• Mate holds two ends together, walks up side of boat to bow of boat.• With buoy held close to bow, line secured to each bow cleat through hawsepipe.• When engines are shut down, Stabilizer Breaker “Off”.• Generator running with Inverter “On”, Charger “Off” if generator is required for AC power.

Mooring at Anchor• Anchor is lowered from pulpit while boat is backed up slowly away from anchor.• When desired chain length out (4:1 or 5:1 scope), windlass is stopped.• Engines reversed for “count of five” until chain pulls up virtually straight. Note: The boat is not held in reverse

against a taught anchor chain!• When engines are shut down, Stabilizer Breaker “Off”.

Generator Starting/Stopping• Starting: Be sure “generator” breaker is “On”• Hold “Preheat” switch for 15 seconds, then release “Preheat” and hold “Start”.• Check port side exhaust for water flow, be sure Charger is “Off”.• After one minute for warmup, turn power selector from “Off” to “Gen”.• Stopping: Turn power selector from “Gen” to “Off”, wait one minute for cool-down.• Hold “Stop” switch until stopped.

Overnight Checklist in Marina• Shore power “On”.• Inverter “On”, Charger “Off”.

Overnight at Anchor or Buoy• Anchor light “On”.• DC electrical items all “Off” including radios, extra lights, etc.

Upon Arising• Start generator if necessary for battery charging.• Inverter “On” if shore power available or generator running.• Turn on heat if necessary.• Go to top of this Patos checklist.


3B: Maneuvering Suggestions

3B1: Docking & Undocking

Usually it’s easier to dock bow in. Have your mate at the side rail opening, ready to step off and secure the stern line, against which you can pull to swing the bow in toward the dock. By having your mate ready to disembark when close to the dock, he/she will not have to jump to the dock, risking a turned ankle or falling overboard. It is the skipper’s job to put the boat next to the dock so the mate needn’t jump, but merely step off!

Approaching a dock, have fenders out as required and have the bow line already rigged, passed through its hawse pipe, and draped back on the side of the boat between the stanchions so it can be reached from the dock. Never put a line from a cleat over a rail: the boat’s weight will bend or break the rail if it pulls against the line! When the mate’s ashore, the line can be easily reached!

If dock clearance permits, spring the boat forward so that it pulls forward on the stern line. This will bring the stern close to the dock. Let the bow line out enough so that the boat can rest against the stern and midships fenders.

3B2: Maneuvering in a Harbor

With its twin screws, you’ll do best if you center the rudder and steer with the engines only! The props are so large that the boat will respond well except in high winds just with use of the propellers in forward and/or reverse. Take your time, and keep the boat running “dead slow” so that you can plan each approach. You shouldn’t need to use the throttles at all.

Filling the Fuel TanksWith the large fuel tanks, you can fuel the boat pretty fast using a standard hose and nozzle (like those on auto gas pumps). Fuel each tank, taking the hose around the fore-or-aft deck to reach the outside fill pipe (don’t drag the hose over the decks or teak rails: have someone help you handle it). Fill both the tanks completely but do not spill fuel! You can control the flow rate by sound, as the fill pipes make the characteristic “getting to the top of the bottle” pitch change when the fill pipes begin to fill when the tanks themselves are full. (The tank vents will gurgle before the tanks are full, so when the vents begin gurgling, slow down until you hear the fill pipes’ pitch change.)

You can tell fuel levels by the sight gauges in the engine room on each tank.

This is the port Diesel fill (larger) and one of the two Water fills...DON’T CONFUSE THEM!


3B3: Anchoring

Anchoring can be accomplished safely with a minimum of fuss if you are prepared. Or, if you are not ready, it can be stressful and dangerous for you or the boat.

Before attempting to anchor, select an anchorage with a soft bottom such as sand, mud, or gravel, if possible. Look at the charts and cruising guides for tips on good locations. Then, choose the spot in the anchorage where you have room to “swing” on the anchor without disturbing other boats. Remember, responsibility for leaving room goes to each successive boat to arrive, for the first boat has priority in the anchorage!

Here in the Northwest, because of the deep waters, all-chain rodes and small bays, we anchor a little differently than in the Gulf of Mexico or Carribean, for example. First, except in severe weather we use anchor chain scopes of only 4-to-1 or 5-to-1. For example, in water that is 40 feet at low tide in the typical anchorage, we might use 160 feet of chain unless the weather was to be gale force or greater winds.

Second, because of the small bays and steep bottoms, we often rig a shore line from the stern of the boat to shore. The best example of this would be at Todd Inlet at Butchart Gardens: Here is a bay that can accommodate 8 - 10 boats, yet it is only about 150’ wide and 200’ long! Boats attach their bows to the mooring buoys or, in a few cases, anchor; and then their sterns are secured to rings provided in the steep cliffs overlooking the bay. Boats are thus perhaps only 15-20’ apart, side to side.

Third, boats often will “raft” side by side in busy marinas, although this is not very common.

Fourth, courteous boaters will call vessels coming into busy bays and offer to let them raft to the same buoy, if signs on the buoys do not limit usage to only one boat depending upon length.

Anchoring safely requires two persons, one at the helm maneuvering the boat and one on the bow operating the anchor. Putting the bow of the boat over the spot where the anchor is to be placed after checking the depth on the depth sounder, the windlass foot-switches are used to lower the anchor slowly toward (but not onto) the bottom, by watching the chain markings.

The chain is measured by marks on the chain as follows:

10' Red-Yellow-Red Stripe 230' Obsolete Red-Yellow-Red Stripe50' Yellow Stripe 250' Yellow Stripe100’ Red Stripe 300' Red Stripe150' Yellow 350' Yellow Stripe200' Red 370' Red-Yellow-Red Stripe

When the anchor is about to reach bottom, the boat is backed away by putting the engines into reverse for 5 seconds: eddies from the chain indicate motion. Resume lowering the anchor while drifting backwards (watch the eddies and add another burst or reverse if necessary!) until the desired amount of chain is out. Stop paying out chain. Engage reverse for five seconds at a time until the chain starts to pull straight off the bow toward the anchor. A straight chain indicates a “set” anchor!

NEVER pull on the chain for more than five seconds, and never at any engine RPM other than idle! Putting the boat’s weight plus its horsepower on the chain forcefully even at idle will bend the anchor and/or damage the mooring gear!

If while checking the set, the chain rumbles and clunks, and seems to release in bursts, it means you’re anchoring on a rocky bottom and the anchor is not holding. Be patient: it may not set on the first try, and you’ll have to repeat the process sometimes to get a good “set”.


3B4: Shore Lines

When a shore line is required, anchors are set 75 - 100 feet from shore, with the boat backing toward shore during anchor-setting. The stern line is put around a tree, and brought back to the boat. During this process, be sure to keep clear of rocks near the shore, and allow for our Northwest tides, occasionally twelve feet, and sometimes 20 feet when further north! Check the present tide, and high and low tides before beginning anchoring: No sense anchoring in 15 feet of water if you’re at the “top” of a 15 foot tide!

To get to the shore, you will need to have a dinghy down, and then have your mate keep the boat’s stern toward shore with short bursts of reverse gear. Sometimes a helpful boater already anchored will help you by taking your line to shore for you with his dinghy, a neat “good deed” that you might reciprocate. We’ve met some nice boaters this way!

The shore line is in the lazarette, and is long enough to usually allow taking it to a tree, around it, and back to the boat so you don’t have to go ashore to untie when leaving. With a crew member keeping the boat in position, take the dinghy to shore pulling the end of the shore line with you. Pass it around a tree, and pull it back to the boat if you can, since then to get away in the morning all you have to do is release the bitter end from the boat, and pull it aboard. Pull the line tight, as long as you’ve got over 100’ total of line out: there is plenty of sag/stretch, and we want to keep the boat in its area! If necessary, put a crab pot float or fender on the line to warn others it’s there!

Here is a sketch of a properly anchored boat with a shore line (In this drawing, S=Scope, which should be at least 4 x DH, the Depth at Low Tide):


Section 4: Specific Boat Systems & OperationsThis section of the operating manual will discuss each of the boat’s systems. The systems and major components discussed are in alphabetical order as follows:

4A: Anchor & Ground Tackle

4B: Barbeque

4D: Bilge Blowers

4E: Dinghy, Davit & Outboard

4F: Electrical Systems, AC

4G: Electrical System, DC

4H: Electronics

4J: Engines & Transmissions

4K: Fresh & Waste Water Systems

4L : Fuel System

4M: Furnace/Air Conditioning

4N: Galley & Appliances

4P: Head Systems

4Q: Running Gear (Props, Shafts, Stabilizers)

4R: Safety Equipment

4S: Sea Strainers & Thru Hulls

4T: Warning Lights, Alarms & Wipers

4A: Anchor & Ground Tackle

4A1: Anchor Bridle

There is an anchor bridle stowed in the lazarette. Use it when anchoring overnight, as it accomplishes three goals:

• It takes the strain of the anchor off the windlass, pulpit, and pulpit pulley and directs it to the bow cleats which are more suited to hold it;

• It reduces substantially the “chain noise” transmitted to the occupants of the forward cabin;

• It allows the anchor rode to have a lower angle relative to the sea bottom, thus increasing the anchor’s holding power.

To use the bridle:• Lower the anchor normally (see page 4.2) then, after it is set,

• Hook the bridle on the chain just in front of the anchor pulpit bow roller;

• Then secure the bridle rope ends through the side-coaming hawse pipes, to the bow cleat on each side so the bridle lines are equal in length and as long as possible;

• Last, operate the windlass to pay out anchor chain so the chain slacks and is supported by the bridle, the chain forming a loop right in front of the boat’s bow.

If you wish, you can pay out additional chain to form a long hanging loop between the boat and bridle, which weights the chain down in front of the boat well below its normal path; thus the chain itself becomes a “kellet” or “sentinel”, lowering the chain angle more than the bridle alone. The weight “drooping” the chain down like this then forms a an even more effective “snubber”, so the boat is gently held against the pressures if wind and tide.

4A2: Anchor Chain Locker & Anchor Jams

Anchor Handling:The anchor is forward on the bow pulpit. It is raised and lowered by the electric windlass. The chain goes from the windlass into the chain lockers through the chain pipe behind the chain wheel (“wildcat”). From here, the chain goes into a compartment just forward of the bow locker.


Be careful when dealing with the chain! If a crew member is operating the windlass be especially careful to keep fingers, hands, arms, etc. away from the chain!

Use the foredeck footswitches, not the helm switch, so you can see where the chain is going and be sure it is clear of the boat properly when raising or lowering the anchor!

Lowering anchor:If the chain jams while lowering anchor, it is because one loop of the chain on top of the pile has fallen inside another loop of chain when the chain pile may have fallen over or shifted. The chain cannot be tangled, so that you will ever need to disconnect it! One easy way to free the chain is, while wearing gloves, grasp the chain on the aft side of the windlass, and, while lifting it above the wildcat manually, rapidly yank it up and down. This will usually free it.

If, on the other hand, this “yanking” technique fails, go below and open the chain locker to allow manually un-overlapping the layers of chain in the pile.

Hauling anchor:Be careful when dealing with the chain! If a crew member is operating the windlass while a person is accessing the chain locker, be especially careful to keep that person’s fingers, hands, arms, etc. away from the chain! Use a windlass handle or broomstick to deal with the chain.

4A3: Anchor Chain Measurement

The chain is measured by marks on the chain. The markings are as follows:

10' Red-Yellow-Red Stripe 230' Obsolete Red-Yellow-Red Stripe50' Yellow Stripe 250' Yellow Stripe100’ Red Stripe 300' Red Stripe150' Yellow 350' Yellow Stripe200' Red 370' Red-Yellow-Red Stripe


4A4: Anchor Windlass

The anchor on Patos is raised and lowered by a Lofrans Tigres Windlass on the bow pulpit. The windlass is controlled by foot switches at the bow. The control circuit breaker for the windlass is on the windlass breaker panel on the starboard side of the saloon helm console. The windlass raises/lowers the anchor.

Be sure to leave the breaker “Off” when the windlass is not in use. This prevents damage in the event that a footswitch fails due to salt water contamination!

If the windlass should fail to operate when its foot switches are operated, trouble-shoot as follows:

• Be sure the windlass breaker and switch are “on”;

• If the breaker/switch was on, try the manual up/down switch at either helm (if this works, use these switches instead of the foot switches until the foot switches are repaired);

• If the manual switches don’t work, you can quickly determine if the windlass itself has failed: Remove the back cover from the windlass and, with a voltmeter, check to see if while a switch is depressed, there is DC voltage on it’s terminals; if not, check the actual wires themselves where they connect to the windlass. The windlass uses so much current that sometime the connection — though it appears tight — may have failed. If there is voltage on the wires, tighten the nuts firmly on the terminals.

• If all this fails, use the brake wheel (green arrow) to keep the wildcat from letting out chain while you loosen the clutch (red arrow) on the starboard side of the windlass, then put the handle in the collar on the left side (yellow arrow) , and “ratchet” the windlass up with the handle, tightening the place after each lift to keep the chain from slipping back.

Insert bar here (or turn this wheel by hand) to release clutch for manual lowering/raising.

This is the brake wheel. Be sure it is released when operating the windlass normally!

Ratcheting collar. Insert bar in slot.

(Collar can be rotated by hand to access slot.)


4B: BarbequePatos carries a propane barbecue which is located on the sundeck railing by the steps from the port side deck to the flybridge.

To operate the barbecue:1. Be sure the propane tank valve is on;

2. Open valve on barbecue at hose connection.

3. Use a butane match to light the grill.

4C: Bilge BlowersThe boat has bilge blowers controlled by a switch in the DC breaker pane at the lower helm. These blowers are not generally needed in the cooler climates of the Northwest; they would be used in hot weather such as in southern latitudes, or to moderately cool the engine room when an operator has to be in it when the engines are, or have been recently running.

4D: Bilge Pumps & High Water AlarmThe boat has two bilge pumps, one in each bilge area, each controlled by a circuit breaker (always left “On”) and a toggle “mode” switch in the “12 Volt DC” panel by the lower helm. See illustration page 4.15, explanatory text on page 4.16..

Each mode switch is labeled “Auto”, “Off”, and “Manual”, and these switches should be left in the “Auto” position.

When in “Auto”, the pump is controlled by its float switch.

When set to “Off” the pump will not run (this position is used in case the float switch will not turn off when all the water has been pumped due to a defective float switch.)

When set to “Manual”, the pump is running without regard to the float switch. This is used by the operator to check the bilges, to drain water below the range of the float switch, and to bypass the switch in case it is defective.

The boat also has a Bilge High Water Alarm actuated by a float switch in the engine room. It’s alarm sounder is on the right side of the lower helm cabinet to the left of th AC meters and cigarette- lighter-style outlet.


4E: Dinghy, Davit & Outboard

4E1: Davit

The dinghy is carried on a davit on the sundeck.

To operate the davit:

At all times, please be careful not to damage anything with the protruding outboard motor’s skeg (the protrusion below the prop)!

1. Connect the remote control to the socket on the davit head. If the davit itself is secured: 1A) Slack off some cable, then remove the restraining straps. 1B) Remove the davit swivel retaining pin, raise the boom to the second hole, and re-insert the pin.

2. Remove the dinghy restraining straps.

3. Raise the dinghy until it’s just free of the chocks (it will shift slightly aft) and remove the bow snubber cable from the dinghy.

4. Raise the dinghy until bow rail is just under flybridge overhang, rotate the dinghy and swing over the starboard side with bow pointing aft.

5. Lower dingy until afloat and bring it back to the aft swim step.

6. Release the three dinghy bridle snap hooks from the dinghy.

7. Secure boom with its bridle to Patos so it will not swing around if Patos rolls.

8. Remove davit remote control and stow in a dry location.

Note: Never leave the davit remote control attached. Always remove and stow in a dry location.

To re-stow the dinghyReverse above procedure, being sure to re-attach bow snubber cable (which will prevent the dinghy from damaging (expensive) windows! Always remove the davit remote control and stow it in a dry location when not in use.

4E2: Dinghy

The dinghy aboard this boat is a Glassply fiberglass boat designed to carry up to four passengers safely, with four sharing the seats.

For safety, and compliance with U.S. rules, there should be a life jacket aboard the dinghy for each passenger aboard whenever the dinghy is at sea.

The dinghy is equipped with running lights and bilge pump. Be sure all equipment is “Off” when stowing the dinghy! Open the drain plug in rainy weather so the pump doesn’t run.

Please be careful when pulling the dinghy ashore on beaches to minimize damage and scratches to the bottom. Dragging can be reduced by lifting the dinghy with two persons, one on each side. Don’t “Ram” the beach; you can bump up to the beach gently and step ashore over the bow, pulling the dinghy a little more ashore as each person off-loads. Don’t forget to raise the outboard.

(Above) The Davit. (Below) Davit control connection point.


4E3: Outboard Motor

The outboard motor for the dinghy is a four-stroke Honda 15 hp, electric-start outboard. It uses plain fuel, oil should not be mixed with the gasoline. To check the oil, remove the cover by operating the latch at the back of the motor. The dipstick is on the starboard side, while the fill is to port. Use the oil stowed in the lazarette.

Be sure to replace and latch the cover after the checks!

The motor has an automatic choke. .

Outboard Operation:

1. Be sure engine is lowered. Outboard tilt is manual, not electric.

2. Pump fuel line bulb until it resists your squeeze.

3. Turn key to center “On” and “Right” to start.

4. Squeeze the shift control “up” toward the handle to advance throttle and shift gears. The black lever that normally rests “flat” on the control quadrant can be lifted for fast idle when in neutral; it should always be all the way down when shifting gears!

5. From neutral, push control handle forward or back squeezing the handle to engage gears and advance throttle in either direction.

4F: Electrical Systems, ACThe AC electrical system is controlled at the AC electrical panel. In addition, there is an AC voltmeter and AC ammeter to the right of the lower helm.

Note: The panel photographs are taken at an angle to reduce glare from the light reflections on their high-gloss finishes.

4F1: AC Generator

The ship’s Onan Generator provides 8,000 watts of AC power to the vessel and is mainly used for battery charging, heating hot water, operation of the washer/dryer, and incidental heat using the small portable electric heaters (although using the Diesel furnace for heating is more common).

The generator itself is in the engine room, and its oil and coolant levels are checked before each charter by the NW Explorations staff. Access to these is by unlatching and removing the starboard side panel on the generator’s sound-shield cabinet. More important is checking the sea strainer (see previous section) to be sure is has not accumulated substantial debris while the generator was run for extended periods, particularly at anchor.

Outboard with cover removed, looking at its port side. Arrows point to oil dipstick and fill cap.


Starting the Generator:

1. Be sure the “Generator” breaker (shown in the illustration to right) is “On”.

2. Hold down the “Heater” switch in the AC control panel by the helm for 15 seconds (this energizes “glow plugs” to warm the engine’s cylinders).

3. Release “Heater”. Press the “Start” switch and hold until you hear the engine start.

4. Check the generator exhaust, or listen for it to confirm that cooling water is being pumped from it.

5. After a brief warmup of a minute or so, switch the shore power switch in the AC power panel to “Gen”. You should see the “AC Present” pilot light go on!

Stopping the Generator:

1. Be sure the “Generator” breaker (shown in the illustration just above) is “On”.

2. Switch the Shore Power switch to “Off”. This removes the load for the generator and allows it to cool down.

3. After at least a minute to allow the generator to cool down, press and hold the “Stop” switch in the AC power panel until the generator comes to a complete stop.

Routine Generator Service:

The generator oil is checked by removing the dipstick on the generator's starboard side. It may be difficult to remove the sound shield to check the oil.

It shouldn’t be necessary to add coolant, but if you do need to, use 50-50 antifreeze mix adding it to the coolant tank on the port side of the generator (you can access the heat exchanger itself under the generator sound shield through the access port on the top of the shield.)

Generator Problems:

The generator monitors its own operation, detecting any loss in oil pressure or any overheating. If either occurs, the generator shuts itself off, and will not keep running when you try to restart it. If this occurs, you can confirm that the cause was such a fault by looking on the aft starboard side of the generator where you will see a “fault”button. If a fault has occurred, the button will be out; it is normally flush with the panel if there is no fault.

If the generator will not keep running, call NW Explorations for assistance. Before repeated starting, shut off sea water supply to avoid water-locking the engine! Then, remember to turn it back on when the generator starts!


4F2: AC Inverter System

The Inverter Makes AC from DC...As we said, the Inverter system is used to provide AC to the boat when there is no shore power. It is wonderful, for example, to use the inverter to make a pot of coffee when the engine is running and you are underway, or to watch TV in a quiet anchorage, or use a hair dryer for a few minutes in the morning. But for long-period use of AC by large appliances, the engine or generator must be running or you must have shore power available.

Now the microwave, for example, will draw about 50 amps of DC when using the inverter to run it, so in six minutes you use one-tenth of an hour at 50 amps, or five ampere-hours. That’s okay. But what if you want to cook a roast for 30 minutes? You would use up a lot of energy on that one job alone! That’s too much use for the inverter, and the propane stove or oven should be used.

For a short task, the inverter is great: no starting the generator, no noise, no fuss, the power is there. If the engine are running, use it all you wish, as long as you don’t try to do two huge jobs at once: The inverter produces a maximum of 3,500 watts of energy at a time. So the inverter is only wired to the outlets and the microwave. It will not run the water heater, battery charger or refrigeration.

Note: Only the breakers in the panel illustration on page 26 with an asterisk (*) are powered by the inverter!

...and also is a Battery Charger, Making DC from AC!The Inverter can also do the reverse: If there is AC power available from a shore-side source or the generator, it can recharge the house batteries. The battery charger function receives that power through the “Inverter Battery Charger” breaker on the AC panel. Since this breaker must be “On” for the batteries to charge using AC power, and you will want to charge the batteries at every opportunity, we suggest that you leave it “On” for the duration of your cruise.

As noted above under the “Connecting Shore Power” section, be mindful that the Inverter can draw a lot of current when charging the batteries, especially when first activated upon connection to shore power. Thus, you need to be careful not to overload a shore power circuit by running other high- draw AC appliances at the same time. Monitor the AC Ammeter to make sure the load remains below the available current as determined by the shore power service from the marina, normally 30 amps.

Inverter OperationThe Inverter is controlled by its control panel located on above the lower helm. The panel has an LCD display that shows the present function. LED Display lights tell you the inverter’s status.

Each of the inverter’s functions, charging and inverting, is controlled by the small buttons on the lower left of its panel.

The charging and inverting functions should be “ON” all the time unless you do not want the inverting function to use your batteries, such as during winter layover or moorage where power may be off for more than a day (and batteries could thus be depleted).

You will see the “PWR” light lit (depending if shore power or the generator is running) or the “INV” light, indicating that the inverter is making AC from the ship’s batteries.

If the “PWR” light is lit, you should see the “CHG” light lit, indicating that the inverter is charging the batteries as it should; the display will show what level of charge is underway. In the illustration, the charger is applying “float” voltage to keep the batteries “topped off”; the inverter goes to this float state when the batteries are fully charged.

In summary, both inverter functions should normally be left on! Note: Only the breakers in the panel illustration on page 4.10 with an asterisk (*) are powered by the inverter!

The Inverter. When photo was taken, boat was in winter layover and

“Inverter Mode” was not turned on.


4F3: AC Panel 120 Volt Breakers

This section of the AC panel provides standard 120-volt power throughout the vessel. Below are described each breaker’s circuits and its use.

Key:

“B” = “Breaker”

“S” = “Switch and Breaker”

“WL” = “Warning Light”)

“MS” = “Momentary Switch”

Green = Leave this breaker on Always

Yellow = Use when Item is Needed

Red = Use with Caution in Exceptional Circumstances

* = Runs on Inverter

BREAKER USE

Port & Stbd O utlets (2) * B T o O utlets

W ater H eater S T o W ater H eater T herm ostat

Battery C harger S T o Battery C harger

C ooker B (Unused)

O utlets ER/H elm /F B * B T o O utlets

Icem aker * B T o Icem aker Sw itch

D eck Lights (2) * S T urns on D eck Lights

Seaw ater Pum p B T o pum p’s pressure sw itch

4F4: AC Metering

To the right of the lower helm are two meters which show the voltage available and the current in amperes (amps) being used by the boat. When connected to shore power or with the generator running, you should have between 110 and 130 volts, 105 volts minimum. When connected to 30-amp shore power you should not turn on too many breakers, lest the load exceed 30 amps; with the generator, do not exceed 90 amps.

4F5: AC Reverse Polarity

Although we tend to think of AC Electricity as having only two conductors, it actually has three. One of these is called “neutral”; one is “hot”; and one is “ground”, that is, it is supposed to be the same as the water around the boat and the earth ashore.

The vessel and many of its appliances rely upon these connections having the correct “polarity”, or relationship to one another and the earth; this is essential to be sure that users of AC equipment do not get a shock when touching and AC equipment.

BREAKER USE

Inverter B To Inverter

Generator S To All Generator Control Circuits

Master Switch B Protects All AC Circuits

Start - Heater - Stop MS Genset Controls

Water Heater On WL Indicates Water Heater Power “ON”

AC Supply On WL Indicates there is AC Power

Reverse Polarity WL Indicates Connection Hazard

Push to Check MS Checks Reverse Polarity Bulb


Now in a house ashore, it’s easy: We don’t “plug in” the house, for it stays connected to the utility company all the time! But in a boat when in the harbor, we do plug in using our Shore Power cords (and sometimes using extension cords). If the outlet to which we plug our cord, or if the cord itself is mis-wired, then these connections can become mixed up, and then there is a significant chance of getting a shock or just as bad, a chance that running gear outside the boat will be subject to rapid corrosion, because the boat is immersed in sea water, a good conductor of electricity.

To protect the vessel and its crew from such contingencies, a “Reverse Polarity Warning” light will illuminate when the connection turned on.

If the “Reverse Polarity” light illuminates when connecting to Shore Power, immediately disconnect the cable and contact the harbor master advising him/her of the problem. Do not risk shock or system damage!

4F6: AC Shore Power, Disconnecting & Connecting

The large AC selector switch on the bottom of the AC power panel is used to determine the source of AC power for the boat.

The switch has four positions, “Off”, “Gen”, “Fwd Shore”, and “Aft Shore”. The “Shore” positions represent the bow and stern shore power connectors for the shore cable.

This switch should be left “OFF” whenever you are connecting or disconnecting the boat to shore. This is true so that you do not draw an arc from the plug due to the load of the boat on the connector’s pins: such an arc will burn the contacts and eventually cause them to overheat when in use, creating a fire hazard.

Once connected to shore power, monitor the AC voltmeter and ammeter to be sure you have not overloaded the circuit.

Important Note: If the house/inverter batteries are low when you first hook up to shore power, and the inverter is on (as it should be), the inverter will begin charging its batteries at a very high charging rate, drawing a lot of shore power current. Until this demand reduces (see “The Inverter System” below), you should turn “OFF” other high-current AC appliances such as the water heater.

You can then turn on AC appliances as needed. Watch the ammeter to be sure you don’t exceed the dock’s available supply, typically 30 amps. Here are some estimates of AC power consumption for typical appliances: Water Heater, 15 amps; Inverter, up to 22 amps; Hair Dryer, 12 amps; TV, 1.5 amps; Coffeemaker, 10 amps; Microwave, 12 amps; Toaster, 12 amps.

4G: Electrical Systems, DC

4G1: DC Concepts

Each year it seems more folks are confused by the operation of electrical systems on yachts than by any other subject! Don’t feel discouraged if something isn’t clear: you’ve got company in your confusion. So let’s try to cover some theory here first.

Most of the equipment on any boat is run by 12-volt DC electricity from the boat’s batteries. This is true because DC should always be available: we have batteries aboard even when there is no shore power! If the batteries aren’t run down, everything should work, just like in the family car.

Since the batteries are used so much, we have to replenish, or charge them. The most important way we do this is by alternators on the ship’s engine. In most cases one engine will provide enough electricity in most every case to run everything, and still have some energy left over to add back to the battery, that is, to charge it.

Ah, but what if the engine isn’t running? Then, the batteries are slowly depleted until they have “run down” and there is no more electricity stored in them . . . a big problem, because then we not only can’t run all the neat stuff on the boat, we can’t start an engine to get more electricity.


So a good skipper and crew has “electrical power management” in mind whenever they turn an electrical gadget on or off!

It is with this concern that we can cite a reality: If we need more electricity than the batteries alone must provide, and if the propulsion engine isn’t running, we will need to get our electrical power from an alternative source! That’s the most important reason why we plug the boat in to shore power or use the generator: To keep from running down the batteries. For by using battery chargers getting their power from shore power or the generator, we can keep the batteries charged, or, at least, from getting too low.

In modern, luxury cruising boats, however, there is another important factor: Some of the “goodies” we like to have on board such as hair dryers and microwave ovens require ordinary household electricity. This is 120 or 240 volts AC. It is different from DC. So if we want to use these things when we’re not at a dock, we must have another way to get 110 volts AC, and for this we use the generator or an inverter, an amazing high tech gadget that takes 12 volts DC from the ship’s batteries and makes it into 110 volts AC!

So here’s what we’ve got:

• A lot of stuff running on 12 volts DC with that electricity from the batteries;• To keep the batteries from running down, we have alternators run by the engine, and battery chargers that get

their power from shore power or the generator;• For the stuff that runs on 120 volts AC, we have shore power, the generator, or, for making AC out of the

batteries’ DC, the inverter.

4G2: DC Batteries

The batteries on this boat are not just one, big all-purpose battery. To have redundancy, there are actually several “banks” of batteries assigned different tasks.

A “starting bank” of one battery (located alongside the port engine) is used for starting the engines only. That way, we won’t run it down playing the stereo, for instance, and then be unable to start an engine. This battery is charged by port engine alternator when this engine is running, and by any other charging source through the battery combiner there is charging voltage, or by the stand-alone charger if shore power or the generator is running and it is turned on (this last case is rare).

Also on the port side outboard of the engine is the generator starting battery. It is charged only by the generator or, if there is shore power and it is turned “on”, the battery charger (this is rare).

A third bank of two batteries is called “the house battery”, located outboard of the starboard engine. Connected to this are all the pumps, interior and exterior lights, horns, navigation and radio gear, etc. (“the house”), and the starboard engine starter. This bank is charged by the alternator on the starboard engine; when there is shore power or the generator is running, by the inverter if it is on; when the port engine is running, by the port engine’s alternator through the battery combiner; or, if on, the battery charger.

If necessary, (but only in emergencies) you can switch the battery switch in the forward engine room panel to “parallel”, so that both starting and house banks are connected together! This way, we can be virtually positive that our engines will start. Normally, however, we leave this switch in the non-paralleled position so the systems are independent.

Note: If it takes more than two attempts to start an engine, turn off its sea water valve to avoid water-locking the engine until it starts.

What redundancy!

House batteries outboard of the starboard engine are in the white boxes.


4G3: DC Battery Chargers

The vessel is equipped with a 12-volt battery charger, the original unit installed by Grand Banks when the boat was manufactured. It charges all the batteries, although normally the inverter is the primary battery charger, charging the house batteries.

The charger is switched on by its breaker in the 120-volt circuit breaker panel.

On Patos, the Inverter is the primary battery charger! Do not turn the “Battery Charger” breaker on unless the inverter has failed, or the genset battery is dead! Normally use the Inverter only to charge the batteries!

4G4: DC Battery Switches

The boat is equipped with a small panel of battery switches mounted in the engine room on the forward bulkhead. Battery switches for the engine starting and house batteries are on this panel, along with a switch to parallel them. Easily accessed from the engine room, these switches are also reachable through the door under the companionway steps in the forward stateroom in an emergency.

SWITCH PURPOSE

Switches just to Starboard of Engine Room - Companionway Door

Port Connects Port Engine to the Starting Battery

Starboard Connects Starboard Engine to the Starting Battery

Parallel Pairs the Starting and House Batteries

Immediately above this panel is a box with two breakers, the house battery master breakers. The “Main” breaker is for the House Battery supplying all the DC accessories. The other breaker, “Spare”, is unused.

An Inverter main battery switch is just forward of the starboard engine at its outboard side.

A Generator starting battery switch is just aft of the port engine on the rear engine room bulkhead.

The DC House Battery main switch is at the bottom of the DC Breaker panel. (See page 4.15.)

4G5: DC Battery Combiner

The vessel has a “battery combiner” that works automatically to keep the house and starting batteries charged all the time. If this electronic device sees any charging voltage on any battery such as from a charger or an engine or genset alternator, then it combines the batteries electrically, this applying this charging voltage to all of them. This is valuable because it is therefore combining all the boat’s charging capacity to any battery that is not fully charged. Since the House Battery is most likely to be discharged — it is used the most — the combiner brings it back to full charge most quickly, a most desirable result only possible with such a combiner.

The combiner is also designed to “sense” if a battery has become seriously defective, such as “shorted”, in which case it does not combine the batteries, lest a bad one ruin the good ones. An amazing system!

Battery switches are above the inverter. Note House master breakers top left.


4G6: DC Breaker Panels

Main DC Breaker PanelThe nerve center of the DC electrical system is this DC circuit breaker panel by the helm. On this panel are the switches that control power to the boat’s various systems.

As for the breaker panel itself, just as in your home, most of these switches are true “circuit breakers”: they feed power to somewhere in the boat where there is another switch which, in turn, turns the item on and off. An example of this would be the circuit breakers for the horn and electric head. If the breaker is turned on, the horn won’t work unless you push the horn button, and the head won’t flush unless you are there in the head compartment to operate it!

But some of the other breakers also serve as the switch for the item. An example of this would be the navigation light breaker or the macerator pump breaker.

The Battery Switch on this panel should always be left in the “House” position. In addition, NEVER switch this to “off” with the engines running except in a dire electrical emergency!

See the next page for a full description of each breaker and other device on the panel.

Key B = Breaker Green = Leave this breaker on ALWAYSS = Switch & Breaker Yellow = Normally “ON” when boat is in useMS = Momentary Switch Red = Use with Caution!

BREAKER USE BREAKER USEBilge Pump (2) B To control switches on right* Stereo B To Stereo

Engine Room Lts S Turns on engine room lights Macerator Pump S To overboard pump

Horn B To horn buttons VHF B To VHF Radios

Wiper B To wipers Radar/Plotter B To Furuno NavNet 3D

Navigation Lts S Turns on nav Lights (Spare)

Anchor Light S Turns on anchor light (Spare)

Spreader Light S Turns on deck spreader lighting Freezer B To Freezer Thermostat

Interior Lts. (3) B To individual light switches RD-30’s S To Depth Displays

Drain Pump B To shower drain pump switches Stop Sol. B To “stop” buttons both engs.

F. W. Pump B To fresh water pump press. sw. Power Port S Turns on port engine power

Galley Vent B To vent switch above range Power Stbd S Turns on stbd engine power

Gas Stove B To propane switch in galley Blower Port S Turns on port engine room fan

Fridge B To Refrigerator Thermostat Blower Stbd S Turns on stbd engine room fan

Head Vent B To vent switches in heads Port & Stbd Start MS Starts the engines

Electric Head B To vacuum pumps both heads Port & Stbd Stop MS Stop the engines

Instrument Lights S Turns on Instrument Lights Bilge Pump Sws* See below

Main DC Breaker Panel, left side of lower helm cabinet. Master switch is large “Perko” knob

in bottom ofillustration. Arrows point to Bilge Pump control

switches and breakers.


In general, when aboard, you’ll have the yellow switches above all “On”. The Engine switches will be “OFF” unless running, when the “Stop Sol” and power switches will be “ON”.

*There are two bilge pump toggle switches and breakers (see arrows in picture, preceding page). The breakers provide power to the pumps, and the switches control the operation of each as follows:

AUTO: The pump is controlled by its own float switch (normal position)

OFF: The bilge pump is off. Used if the float switch has failed, pump could burn out.

ON: The pump is running manually. Used to test, or see how much water is in the bilge.

Windlass Breaker

In addition to DC panel switches, there is an Anchor Wlndlass switch right of the helm. Have it “ON” only when using the windlass.

Small DC Breaker Panel

This panel is located low, to the right of the helm. It has two breakers, for the stabilizers and autopilot. See their instructions below.

4G7: Xantrex DC Power Monitor

On the left side of the helm cabinet is a Xantrex DC Energy Monitor. This nifty unit allows you to check DC house battery voltage, charging/use rates in amps, and approximate cumulative battery energy used.

The display has “step” LED’s that indicate the state of the batteries’ charge, from “empty” (on the left) to “full” (on the right).

There are three buttons on this unit’s panel, “V”, “A/Ah” and “%”.

“V”, “Volts” mode: Unit displays the house battery voltage. The “volts” mode with 12.8 fully charged (nothing running); 14.2 or more bulk charging; 13.2 - 13.8 float charging, less than 10.0 volts, (discharged.)

“A”, “Amps” mode: Unit displays the rate of charge or discharge of the house batteries; a “-” sign appears when the battery is discharging, no sign when charging.

“Ah”, “Amp-Hours” mode: Unit is like a “fuel gauge in reverse”. Batteries fully charged, the unit show approximately “0”. As ampere-hours are used, the unit counts how many, i.e., after you’ve used 50 amp- hours, the unit will display “-50” or so.

The amp-hours readings are approximate, and relative. When you run the boat, the number should decrease again to zero. In fact, the most useful setting for the energy monitor is the amps mode, which answers the question “Am I using up (-) or adding power to the batteries right now?”

“%” or “percentage remaining” mode: Unit shows a calculated percentage of charge remaining.

We suggest you look at the monitor in the “A” mode especially just before bed when at anchor, to warn you if you’ve left something on. You will normally see only a modest “-” current for your anchor light and perhaps the fridge. If nothing is running, switching to “V” should show voltage should be about 12.6 - 12.8 (approximately fully charged.)

Right: Windlass BreakerBelow: Small DC Breaker

Panel


After you wake up, check the voltages before you start using more DC energy: You may want to charge your batteries by “going for a boat ride” or using the generator if you were at anchor and the reading is 12.2 volts or less.

If you take readings frequently for the first day or two of your cruise, you’ll get an idea of normal system operation and power consumption rates, and you can adjust your battery usage and generator charging activity accordingly.

4H: ElectronicsThe boat is equipped with extensive electronic equipment, including VHF radios, Radar, GPS/Plotters with Big Bay displays; conventional and forward-looking Depth Sounders; Speed Log; Closed Circuit Video for engine room and cockpit surveillance and maneuvering; an Autopilot, and a Wind Indicating System. The engines are monitored with electronic monitors with LCD displays (See “Engines”)

Each unit is provided with a dedicated or shared circuit breaker in the DC power panel; this breaker must be on for the unit to be used. Then the unit’s own power button must have been depressed or its knob must be also be in the “ON” mode.

4H1: Electronics: Autopilot

The boat is equipped with a Comnav Autopilot System including a control console at each helm.

For the unit to operate, be sure the breaker is on in the Power Panel.

Basic operation is simple:

RED BUTTON A. Turns the system on.B. When on, if held for 3 seconds, puts pilot into standby (S appears in upper left of display) ... orC. When on, if held long enough for“Release” to appear in screen, then released, it turns the system “Off”.

AUTO Engages the autopilot to hold the heading that existed when pressed. When engaged, “A” (Autopilot) appears in upper left of display.

NAV This function is not to be used by charterers!DODGE Dodge control: Press once to allow manual steering; press again to resume autopilot steering on

the previous course. BUTTONS Used to dodge obstacle. Hold until one until desired degree of turn is reached, then hold both

until past obstacle, then release(KNOB) Turn to set a new heading.

For full details, see the Autopilot Manual.

Maintain a careful lookout when using the autopilot! It is an aid to comfortable cruising, not a replacement for an aware helms-person! Remember, you can disengage it quickly simply by pushing the red key for three seconds!

4H2: Electronics: Carbon Monoxide Monitor

There is a Carbon Monoxide Monitor/Alarm at the forward end of the Master Stateroom on the top edge of the hanging locker. It will alarm in the event of high CO levels.

Comnav control console.


4H3: Electronics: Datamarine Depth Sounder (Backup)

There is a second depth sounder on the flybridge (in addition to the Furuno System, which is also there).

It is operated by the rotary switch on its front.

See warning below regarding depth sounder accuracy!

4H4: Electronics: Furuno RD-30 Depth Sounders/Displays (Prime)

The Furuno RD-30 displays are at both helms. They are primarily used to display the water depth, water temperature and speed through the water (STW) at both helm stations. The depth is BELOW THE KEEL. Because our waters are sometimes very deep, the depth sounder will not display or will stay on a high depth reading when the water’s depth is beyond its capacity.

Remember when backing up, or crossing a “tide line”, that turbulent water from the tides, boat’s screws or another boat can interrupt the sounding information received by the unit. Be careful!

It is turned on by the breaker in the DC power panel. Using the DISP key steps the unit through its displays. For further information, see the manual.

Because our waters are sometimes very deep, the depth sounders will not display or will stay on a high depth reading when the water’s depth is beyond its capacity.

Remember when backing up, or crossing a “tide line”, that turbulent water from the tides or boat’s screws (or those of another boat) can interrupt the sounding information received by the unit. Be careful!

Note that our Northwest waters are rocky and depths change rapidly. You should be especially careful to study your charts, and then check them often whenever running in depths of 50 feet or less, so that you don’t hit a rock! Just as our islands “pop up” to heights of 50, 100, or even thousands of feet in a very small horizontal distance, so do rocky obstacles!

4H5: Electronics: Plotters/Electronic Charting Systems

Furuno Navnet 3D System: Plotter, Radar, Sounder

The boat is equipped with a new Furuno NavNet 3D System. This single large display is a color radar, navigation plotter, depth sounder/fish finder, and GPS combined into a single unit. There is a repeater on the flybridge. This means that nav data is always available at both helms.

Use the instruction manual if you are unfamiliar with the unit! Don’t be fearful, for you will discover operation is quite intuitive once you get used to the few buttons you’ll need, primarily:

The Blue Button turns the unit on and sets the brilliance of the display; you will need to wait about 90 seconds for full startup and the warning message to appear! After the message appears, turn and press the “Rotokey” knob (just to the right of the display screen) to select the display you wish.

Warning: Do not spend so much “head down time” looking down at these units that you stop watching where you are going. Keep a lookout posted!


4H6: Electronics: Radar

Radar coverage is supplied by the Furuno System above.

4H7: Electronics: Stereo/CD

In the saloon forward electronics panel is Stereo AM/FM receiver with a CD player. This is like an automobile unit. The “Front/Rear” speaker control (fader) shifts the sound among the boat’s speakers.

If the “cabinet bottom” under the stereo is pulled down, you will find a bracket to hold your iPod and play it through the system.

4H8: Electronics: TV/DVD/Stereo System

The boat has a DVD player and TV, a flat screen unit on a bracket that allows it to be swung into view. The DVD player is in the side of the TV. It operates conventionally.

4H9: Electronics: VHF Radio, Lower Helm

There is a conventional ICOM VHF radio at the lower helm station, to the left of the radar and plotter displays (with the mike just underneath it). The radios is designed for easy access to Channel 16 which is the hailing and emergency channel in the Northwest. Detailed instructions are in its manual.

4H10: Electronics: VHF Radio, Flybridge

There is a conventional Standard Horizon VHF radio on the flybridge. The radio is designed for easy access to Channel 16 which is the hailing and emergency channel in the Northwest. Detailed instructions are in its manual.

4J: Engine & Transmissions

4J1: General Discussion

The main engines on the boat are two Caterpillar 3208N Diesels, each producing a maximum of 210 horsepower. These extraordinarily-reliable, rugged machines are the top-of-the-line, and can be expected to give you trouble-free, economical cruising. The engines are controlled at the lower helm with circuit breaker switches and start & stop buttons; at the upper helm there are stop and start buttons for emergencies.

On engine start, no long warm-up is required! Simply start the engines just before you leave the dock to begin in-harbor maneuvering.

Do not run the engines over 1400 RPM until the temperature gauge reads at least 140 degrees Fahrenheit.

Do not run the engines for long periods with the transmission in neutral, with no load.

Engine gauges are in two clusters of five (one cluster for each engine, port and starboard) at each helm. Each cluster has engine oil pressure; engine temperature; tachometer; battery amperage; and engine hours.

TV/DVD in the aft port salon corner.

The VHF Radio on the flybridge.


4J2: Checking the Engines

The engines require a regular, daily check, since once underway, you will probably not check them while in use, tucked away as they are in the engine room. Please perform this check each morning (when the engine room is cool!):

Check the OilThe oil level should be between the two marks on the dipstick. The dipsticks are located on inboard side of each engine, toward the forward end of the engine itself, and the stick “pulls out“ upward. Use a paper towel from the roll on the forward bulkhead, wipe the stick, reinsert, guiding the stick with the towel to keep from bending it, and take reading.

The distance between the two marks is about 1.5 quarts. Add only enough oil to bring it up above the “add“ mark, say a quart, using the oil provided on the boat. (If you need more oil, buy it! We will reimburse you.) The oil fill on each engine is a T-handled stopper cap in the top of one valve cover on each engine. Loosen the T handle by turning it one or two turns and remove. After reinserting, be sure to tighten the cap, but do not over-tighten.

DO NOT OVERFILL the crankcase (above the “full“ mark), as these engines will quickly waste excessive lubricant. If oil is required often, check under the engine carefully to be sure there is no oil leak, and if there is, have it corrected promptly.

Check the Coolant LevelThe plastic coolant overflow tanks are located above the forward end of each engine, with caps on the top, and they are quite close to the underside of the salon sole (floor). If there is any coolant in the coolant tank when the engines are cool, there is enough.

If coolant is needed, determine if there is any sign of a coolant leak under the engine, and if there is, do not run the engine.

If there is no leak, add coolant to the tank from the jug of pre-mixed antifreeze/corrosion inhibitor/water supplied on the boat. Choose the coolant can with the pump unit on top, remove the overflow tank’s cap by turning; insert the tube, and pump until the coolant overflow tank is no more than one-quarter full.

Visually Inspect the Engine RoomWhenever you’re in the engine room, ask yourself, “Does everything look right?”. Look at the pads under the engines and transmissions: while some drips are normal, there shouldn’t ever be substantial accumulations of any fluids!

Check the Sea Strainers Weekly......or immediately if an engine runs “hot”. The engine strainers are in the forward end of the engine room bilge. The refrigeration sea strainer is just forward of them.

To check a strainer, shine a flashlight through it. While some “fuzziness” from trapped thin growth is normal, you should see the light clearly on the other side; if obscured, you should clean the strainer. See below.

(Above) Port engine. (Below) Starboard engine.

Red: Dipstick. Green: Oil Fill Cap. Blue: Emergency stop button.


4J3: Engine Controls

Patos is fitted with Morse push-pull cable controls with shift and throttle connections from each helm directly to the engines.

4J4: Engine Emergency Shutdown

In the event the stop switch fails to operate on either engine, you can shut it down manually by pressing the rubber-encased button on the top of the engine (see illustration). This cuts of the engine’s fuel supply. See the illustrations on page 35.

4J4: Engine Hydraulic System

The port main engine’s forward belt crankshaft pulley is fitted with coupling to a hydraulic pump that operates the vessel’s stabilizers. See the “Running Gear” section for more details.

4J5: Engine Operating Parameters

The following parameters are estimated based upon experience with the Caterpillar 3208-NA engines:

RPM Speed Fuel Consumption Naut. Miles/Gallon

1600 8.0 5.5 GPH 1.45

2000 9.5 8.5 GPH 1.12

2400 10.0 15.0 GPH .67

4J6: Engine Transmissions

Check the Transmission Oil Levels every two Weeks...

...more often if a transmission shifts erratically, with the dipstick on the starboard side of each transmission. It is unlikely that any oil will need to be added. Be sure to check under the transmission for leaks! Low transmission oil is a serious matter.

With the engine idling and in neutral, remove the transmission dipstick. Wipe it with a towel, reinsert it, and take a reading. If the level is below the add mark, stop the engine, add a half-pint or so of 30-weight (not multigrade) oil through the plug in the top of the transmission case, and then start the engine and measure again. Do not overfill, for to do so could cause the seals to “blow out”.

Hydraulic pump on port engine.

Looking down at the starboard transmission. The arrows point to the dipstick and the filler cap.


4K: Fresh, Salt & Waste Water Systems

4K1: Fresh Water Fill Location

The water tanks are filled by side deck fill pipes on the port side midships and port side forward with a cap on each marked “WATER”.

You need to fill the tanks individually. You can use the sight gauge on the engine room tank to tell if your water is getting low.

4K2: Fresh Water Filter

There are charcoal filters on the output of the watermaker and directly between the tanks and the fresh water pumps. On a long trip, NW Explorations will have supplied you with spare filters; otherwise, you should leave them alone!

4K2: Fresh Water Heater

After the water pump, water is distributed directly to the cold water faucet lines. In addition, it goes to the boat’s water heater. The heater uses two energy sources, (1) heat from the port engine, so that whenever the boat is running, or has recently run, there is hot water; and (2) 110 volts AC from shore power or generator, if available and the water heaters’ 110-volt AC breaker is “on”. The heater is insulated well enough to keep hot water overnight without power, provided you haven’t wasted a lot. Note that it can take considerable time to heat water from a “cold” start!

4K3: Fresh Water Pumps

The water line from the tanks leads to the boat’s fresh water pumps in the engine room, port side forward. There are two pumps (one is a spare), selected with two valves on each pump and a DC switch mounted nearby. Provided the circuit breaker is “On”, a pump will run whenever its built-in pressure switch detects low water pressure. There is also an “accumulator tank” located here; it provides a “pressure head” for the pump, so the pump doesn’t need to run so often. Instead, a pump cycle will provide for several minutes of routine water use before pressure diminishes and the pump starts again.

In the event a pump should fail, turn the two valves on each pump so the spare pump is selected, and switch the selector switch to the spare pump. Be sure to notify Northwest Explorations that you have done this so they can repair the defect!

You should leave the Fresh Water Pump switch on all the time so that the flushing action of the watermaker is not impeded!

(Top left) The aft filter (blue) is for the watermaker output. (Top right) In the left of the picture is the filter

for fresh water from the ship’s tanks.

The two water pumps are in the bottom of the picture, and the red selector switch is top left. Note the yellow

valves handles; the foreground pump is in use.


4K4: Fresh Watermaker

The boat carries a Spectra Watermaker. This great system (which requires AC & DC power to operate) has the following features:

• It automatically flushes itself on a regular basis to keep the filtration membranes clean and in service;

• It has automatic controls that run it for specific periods so that you need not worry about overfilling tanks and wasting water;

• It assures you that there will always be plenty of water, however it will take several hours to top off the tank under normal use.

• Note that you can use city water without filling the tanks. Simply connect the hose to the pressure water inlet fitting outside the cockpit swim door and leave the hose “on” as long as you are at the dock; this will then go directly to the boat’s faucets as needed, but not into the tanks.

Operation is entirely automatic. If you are authorized to use the watermaker, Simply push the AUTO/RUN button to add water to the tanks, following these provisos:

• Do not run the watermaker while in the harbor: You will shorten the time that the filters can be in service;

• Leave the watermaker on at all times so it can monitor its own operations;

• Always leave the fresh water pump breaker on so that the purge system can operate properly;

• Each depression of the AUTO/RUN button will run the watermaker for one hour, making 20 gallons of water.

If water output falls, check the sea water intake filters in the engine room. There are two: the first one to process the incoming water is of 20 micron porosity, while the secondary filter is 5 microns.

To change, unscrew the blue collar and exchange with a new cartridge.

4K5: Fresh Water Tanks

There are two water tanks located midships, in the engine room under the genset and forward under the berth. They hold 280 gallons.

4K6: Sea Water Pump

Patos is equipped with a Sea Water Pump for washdown of the anchor chain with a faucet on the bow, and for fish cleaning, etc., with a faucet at the cockpit. It is operated by 110 volts AC in the AC Breaker Panel. For safety, his switch should be off except when the pump is in use.

4K7: Waste Water

Waste water from the sinks and showers (but not from the toilets) is dumped overboard in accordance with U.S. and Canadian law. From sink basins, the water simply flows by gravity overboard. Since the floor of the showers is below the water line, built in shower sump pumps operate to lift this water back above the waterline and dump it overboard.

It is therefore very important that the “drain pump” breaker in the DC panel be left “On”.

(Above) Watermaker Control Panel. (Below) Left side: Watermaker Engine Room

Cabinet for SeaWater and Electronics, Right side: Water Heater

The blue filters for the sea water. Beyond them is the stabilizer master hydraulic unit.


4L: Fuel System

4L1: Fuel System Concept

The Diesel fuel aboard Patos is carried in two tanks of 300 gallons each. This gives the boat great cruising range, but it also means there can be a significant imbalance between the tanks if fuel is only used from one tank for an extended period.

You should understand that Diesel engines pump an excessive amount of fuel from the tank, use the excess to cool the injection pump equipment on the engine, then return the unused excess to the tank! Typically, an engine might pump 40 gallons/hour, but use only three or four: The 36 or 37 gallons “makes the circuit” through the pump and back to the tank.

4L2: Filling the Fuel Tanks

With the large fuel tanks, you can fuel the boat pretty fast using a standard hose and nozzle (like those on auto gas pumps). Listen carefully; as soon as you hear the fuel getting near the top, slow dow and fill slowly until the fuel just starts to come up the fill pipes.

Fill both the tanks completely but do not spill fuel.

4L3: Fuel Fill Pipe Locations

Take the hose around the cockpit to reach the fill caps on the side decks under the salon windows approximately midships. These are labeled “Diesel” – Use Care!

4L4: Fuel Filters

Diesel engines require absolutely clean fuel to operate continuously. As a result, there are two kinds of fuel filters on the boat. The primary filters are mounted on the inside of each fuel tank aftet of the engines in the engine room.

The secondary filter is on the engine itself. It is very fine and is the final protection to be sure the engine’s fuel is absolutely clean.

If the engine stops, it is likely a filter is clogged. Follow through carefully, and remember you will have to prime the engine to re-start it. See the engine manual for this procedure. (More next page)

Arrows point to the primary filters for the engines and the generator


4L5: Fuel Management and Manifold

The Fuel Manifold is located directly forward and below the generator cabinet. Each engine has a fuel supply and, since extra fuel is pumped to the engine that is used to cool the engines injection pump, there is a fuel return line as well. Normally, you should simply leave all these valves “On”. In the event you must run for an extended period on one engine, only then would you actually change these valves.

In such an occasion, but only then, here is a “truth table” to help you set the valves:

Port Tank Supply

Port Tank Return

Supply Crossfeed

Return Crossfeed

Stbd Tank Supply

Stbd Tank Return

Normal Operation To Port Engine

To Port Engine Closed Closed To Stbd

EngineTo Stbd Engine

Use Port Tank Only To Port Engine

To Port Engfine Open Open Closed Closed

Use Stbd Tank Only Closed Closed Open Open To Stbd Engine

To Stbd Engine

4L6: Fuel Measurement

Because of the great capacity of the tanks, you have considerable fuel! Most short charters (one or two weeks) will not require refilling the tanks before returning the boat, but it is valuable to know how to do it; to run out of fuel is nearly unforgivable for a boat operator!

There are “sight gauges” on each tank; on the port tank, it automatically has “shutters” that make the level stand out; on the starboard the oil can be seen in it. To use them, open any valves at the gauge tube’s upper and lower end, take the reading, then close the valves.

4M: Furnace

4M1: Furnace

Furnace ConceptThe boat is equipped with an Espar Diesel Forced Air Heating System. This is a very compact furnace that burns the same Diesel fuel as the engines. The fuel comes from one of the engine tanks, but it uses a negligible amount of fuel, about a pint each hour it actually runs. The furnace heats air which is circulated throughout the boat. Individual outlets with its own air control directs the air into each area of the boat.

The furnace is controlled by a thermostat and switch, located just left of the lower helm by the forward companionway. The furnace’s built-in computer will warm up the furnace, supply heat to the boat until the thermostat senses it is warm enough, then shut off the fans while the furnace goes through a “cool-down” cycle. You need not do anything but set the thermostat with the switch “on”!

Yellow handles are on the manifold valves.

Arrow points to tank indicator for port tank.

Furnace thermostat. The switch, upperright, turns it on

(in “1” position) and off(“0”). The position of the dial

shown is about 70 degrees F.


To control the balance of heat between the boat’s areas, open, close, or re-direct the deflectors on the outlets.

As you can see, this furnace system is very flexible and a great addition to the boat! As long as the batteries can support the modest DC power requirement of the fans and furnace blower, you will have plenty of quiet heat. In fact, this use of the house batteries’ energy for air circulation is a good reason to limit use of the furnace to times when passengers are awake, unless the boat has shore power available.

Furnace Exhaust Warning

Note the location of the exhaust aft on the starboard side of the boat!

Care should be taken not to black this outlet with fenders or while rafting due to the very high temperature of the exhaust gases from the furnace.

Furnace Problems

If battery voltage gets too low the furnace will shut down to avoid running the batteries dead. After the batteries are fully charged, you must reset the furnace control by turning the main furnace “on-off” switch on the thermostat “Off”, wait ten seconds, and then “On” again. The furnace then should operate.

Furnace Thermostat

See above.

4N: Galley & AppliancesPatos is fitted with a number of appliances for your convenience. Most of these (like the microwave) are easy to operate, “just like a home appliance”; nevertheless, we will spend some time discussing these, as marine units have some features that are slightly different than home models.

4N1: Barbecue

The boat is equipped with a propane-fired barbecue on the sundeck by the steps to the flybridge. To operate it, turn on the propane at the tank; then using the valve on the barbecue, regulate the gas to the burner lighting it with the “propane match” supplied.

When done using the barbecue, be sure to turn the gas off at the tank.

4N2: Microwave

There is a conventional microwave on the counter beneath the cabinet at the left end of the galley cabinets.

4N3: Propane Tank (for Stove)

Propane gas is heavier-than-air. Therefore it must be treated with care around a boat so that we can be absolutely sure there is no gas escaping into the atmosphere to collect in the boat’s lowest spot, the enclosed bilges, to become an explosive safety hazard. For this reason, the propane tank itself is housed above the galley in the left seat on the flying bridge. Obviously, up there, if there is a leak, the gas will simply be vented overboard, for there is no way from there for it to be redirected into the boat, for all openings into the salon are sealed (otherwise they’d leak in a rainstorm!).

There is, of course, a manual gas valve on the propane tank. This valve is used only when exchanging/filling tanks; it should be fully opened. There is also a second valve, a “solenoid valve”, in the flybridge seat propane line immediately after the manual valve. This electric valve is controlled by a switch in the galley itself, and in this way the cook can actually shut off the propane supply to the stove at its source when it not being used, simply by throwing the switch.

Starboard side furnace exhaust.


4N4: Refrigeration

Refrigeration on Patos consists of an under-counter cold-plate refrigerator in the galley and a stand-up chest freezer on the flybridge. The refrigerator runs off of compressors that are sea water cooled in the engine room, port side forward on the shelf. Their controls are within the actual cooling compartments, like a household unit.

Hint: Your refrigeration will work better if you keep the cabinets full; many boaters fill used plastic containers with galley water and use these as “cold sinks” in their refrigerators; that way, when the door has been opened and closed, the cold has been saved!

Also, be careful not to put perishables (such as lettuce) against the refrigerator cold plate as they will freeze. Instead, put items in solid containers on the back of the fridge shelves or in the cooler provided on the flybridge.

4N5: Stove

The boat is equipped with a PRINCESS propane stove with three top burners and a thermostatically-controlled oven and broiler.

Each stove burner including the oven is fitted with a “thermocouple”, a heat-sensing device that also controls the gas flow. When the gas supply is “turned on” to a burner, the gas will not flow unless (a) the burner is already on, or (b) the cook is holding the valve in the “light” position. So you can see the safety of this arrangement: If the burner goes out for any reason, the thermocouple will shut off the fuel automatically, assuring you of a safe galley.

To Light a Burner:

Lighting a burner is easy and only takes five to ten seconds:

1. Be sure the propane valve circuit breaker in the DC panel is on.

2. Turn on the remote propane valve on the fly bridge by throwing the over-the-stove “Propane” switch (when you do this, the pilot light on the switch panel will light, and you will see the red area on the switch).

3. Turn the knob for your selected burner to “light”, holding it in, and press the red igniter button on the left of the stove several times until the burner lights. Sometimes you may need to turn the knob a little further toward “high”, or, if the tank has been changed, keep trying for a few seconds before fuel reaches the stove after purging air from the pipe.

4. After the burner lights, continue to hold the knob in for a few seconds while the thermocouple heats up before adjusting the flame to the desired intensity.


To Light the Oven:

Since the oven burner is out of sight when the door is closed and it is on, and since while in use, the flame, controlled by the oven thermostat, goes on and off to control the temperature accurately, the oven has a pilot light that lights it when in use. Therefore the cook must “light the pilot” when the stove’s oven is to be used. Also, by not leaving the pilot light on all the time since the oven isn’t used at every meal, the boat’s propane is conserved.

Just as with the burners, lighting the oven is easy, and will take about 20 seconds:

1. Follow steps (1) and (2) above turning on the circuit breaker and propane switch.

2. Locate the pilot light assembly in the opening under the oven divider, at the right front of the burner assembly.

3. Turn the oven control to “light”, and, while holding the red “oven light” button on the right side of the range, use a match or butane fire-lighter to light the pilot light, holding the red button in for another fifteen seconds after the pilot is lit for the thermocouple to heat up and allow the pilot to stay on. If the pilot will not stay lit, hold the button in longer!

4. Adjust the thermostat to the desired temperature. Note: The oven burner will not immediately light! For safety reasons, the control has a slight time delay, and the oven’s main burner will light after about 20 or 30 seconds following control-setting. In this way, the burner does not “puff” on and off as you adjust the control.

5. Until you are completely done with the oven for this cooking session, you may leave the control in the “light” position between cooking your dishes, so that to use it some more all you need to do is re-set it to a temperature --- the pilot is still lit.

6. When done with the oven for this meal, turn it completely “off”. The pilot light will go out.

4P: Head Systems

4P1: Overview

The head system on this boat is reliable, straightforward, and easy-to-use. First, a note about discharge of sewage:

It is forbidden to discharge untreated sewage in inland US. waters, an area that includes all US. waters in which this boat operates. The boat holding tank must only be emptied at proper pump-out stations if it is in US. waters. (This rule does not apply in Canadian waters. However, in Canada, courteous practice dictates that the holding tank be dumped only when outside confined marinas or bays, as we are sure the reader agrees!)

The boat is equipped with two Masterflush marine heads. These heads each have a pump-in motor macerates waste and puts it either into a holding tank or directly overboard, as determined by the setting on a Y-valve in the head plumbing lines. The holding tank is emptied either of two ways: by operating an overboard macerator pump controlled at the DC power panel, or by pumping using a shore side pump out station through the boat’s pump out fitting at the inside base of the Portuguese bridge, starboard side.

One of the two toilets; this is in the forward head compartment.


4P2: Head Operation

The premium heads are easy to use, odor free, and very reliable. They each work with a separate macerator pump built in to the head itself.

The head uses about a half pint of fresh water from the ship’s supply with each flush.

The head is operated by control on the nearby vanity cabinet.

1. Be sure the “Electric Head” switch in the DC panel is “On”. The switch should be left on unless you have trouble with the head, in which case you will turn the switch “Off”.

2. Before using the head if the waste will be solid, press the Head Control Button with the “Up” arrow to add water to the bowl.

3. 3After use, press the Head Control button with the “Down” arrow to flush the head.

Only things which were eaten or drunk, or the toilet paper supplied with the boat, should be put in the heads! Facial tissues, tampons, and other foreign matter will clog the system. If these heads are used properly, they are very, very reliable. Failures are virtually always due to mis-use!

Do not try to flush “mitts” with multiple sheets of toilet paper!

4P3: Head Problems

The two head systems are completely separate: If you have trouble, turn off the faulty head and use just the other head; call for assistance. Of course, if the holding tank is full, the heads cannot work! Pump the holding tank (see below) when required

4P4: Holding Tank

There is a 30-gallon holding tank on the boat located in the engine room to starboard of the engines. Unless the Y-valves are set so the heads pump overboard, the sewage from each head goes to the holding tank. If dumped overboard from this tank, the effluent passes through a through-hull valve (normally open) just aft of the holding tank in the engine room on the starboard side of the boat.

4P5: Head Holding Tank Level Gauge

The boat is equipped with a tank level indicator in the aft head compartment, so it is easy to tell if a tank is full. Check this indicator regularly and don’t flush if full! Note that after a few uses, the “empty” light will extinguish, and no light will be lit until the tank reaches the “mid” position.

4P6: Head Waste Overboard Pump

If not in U.S. waters or a “no-discharge zone”, you can dump the tank overboard without a pump out station by turning “ON” the macerator pump at the DC panel. Leave it on until either the “empty” indicator LED shows on the tank level unit in the rear head compartment, or until you see bubbles coming fron under the boat.

It takes about ten minutes to empty a full holding tank.

If it is emptied while underway, have someone monitor the operation, checking the tank level indicator to be sure that the pump is not forgotten and left running, lest you ruin the pump!

One of the toilet operating controls.


4P7: Head Holding Tank Pumpout

If dumped overboard from this tank, the effluent passes through a through-hull valve which is normally in the correct position. To dump the tank, use a shore side pump out station connecting to the “Waste” deck fitting on the side deck.

4P8: Head Y-Valves

The heads are equipped with Y-valves in the engine room. The aft head Y-valve is aft on the port side near the fuel tank; the forward head Y-valve is on the forward bulkhead to starboard.

In US. Waters, the Coast Guard Rules require that valves be “secured” in the holding tank position assuring that all effluent will be kept aboard in the tank. If you turn the valves to over-board while in Canadian waters, re-secure them with wire ties.

4Q: Running Gear

4Q1: Shaft Seals

The vessel is equipped with dripless shaft seals that are lubricated by water from the engines; the seal should be occasionally checked by the owner to be sure that there is not inappropriate water leakage. Adjustment should be rarely required.

4Q2: Stabilizers

The boat is fitted with a hydraulic stabilizer system consisting of active fins on the underside of the vessel just aft of the engine room bulkhead. These fins are controlled by a control head (just above the inverter control) in the pilothouse, with adjustments for sensitivity and trim. The stabilizer hydraulic pump is driven by the port engine, and the stabilizers do not affect the boat when it is not underway, and only reach their full effectiveness at speeds over 5.0 knots or so.

When using the engines, the “Stabilizers” breaker on the small panel to the right of the lower helm (near the salon floor) should be “On”.

With the breaker on, press the buttons to control the stabilizers as follows:

Center This button should have been pressed when not underway, or when backing. This is important!

Active Press to engage stabilizers when underway.

GPS/Speed Signal Bypass Turns off the system’s automatic speed compensation. Normally left out/unbypassed.

Sensitivity Controls: Roll Rate & Roll Angle Adjusts the sensitivity of the system to changing conditions.

Alarms: Temperature & Level

These alarms light/sound for high fluid temperature or low hydraulic fluid level. If an alarm sounds, it can be silenced by pressing the “Alarm” button on the screen.Immediately investigate the cause; call NW Explorations for assistance.

For other information about operation, consult the Naiad Operating Manual.

Stabilizers Control Panel


4R: Safety Equipment

4R1: Safety - Equipment Listing

This vessel is equipped with complete safety equipment, detailed on page 1.10.

4R2: Safety - Fire Suppression System

The boat has a fire suppression system built in to the engine room. It is thermostatically operated, and if it operates because of a fire, it sounds an alarm and lights the warning light shown in the photo to right. IMMEDIATELY SHUT DOWN THE ENGINES!

A control on the helm (to starboard of the wheel near the windlass breaker) can then be operated to silence the alarm.

4R3: Safety - Safety Panel

This panel in the pilothouse will alert you for several anomalies in the boat’s systems, or if you have left some lights on that could run down your batteries. LED’s indicate the cause if an engine alarm is sounding, if the DC engine room lights are on; and whether a bilge pump is running. The windshield wiper controls are also here.

4S: Sea Strainers & Through-Hulls

4S1: Sea Strainer Cleaning and Seacocks

The sea strainers on this boat are secure and reliable. They protect the engine, generator and refrigeration cooling systems from water-borne debris which might block internal equipment passages. If a sea strainer needs cleaning (see above regarding inspection) here is the procedure:

1. Look at the base of the strainer near the hull. On one side is a valve lever with a relatively long handle; on the other side is a “T”-shaped knob. Loosen the T-knob two turns. The valve itself may begin to “weep” sea water, do not be alarmed.

2. Turn the longer valve lever so it is perpendicular to the sea strainer (parallel to the hull).

3. Tighten the T-handle; the weeping will stop.

4. Using the same spanner you use for the fuel and water tank deck caps, unscrew the top of the sea strainer. Then remove the strainer by pulling it out the top of the assembly. Rinse the strainer thoroughly and, if necessary, remove any debris from the glass housing.

5. Reinsert the strainer, tighten the top cover with the spanner, AND TURN THE VALVE BACK ON C failure to do so will overheat the engine. BE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE T-KNOB ON THE VALVE SO IT IS SECURE.

This entire operation will take 5-10 minutes at most, and will assure you of cool engines.

Safety panel to left, wiper controls on right.

A sea strainer; this one is forward of the starboard engine.


4T: Warning Lights & Alarms, Wipers & WashersSee the Safety Panel, Page 46.

See the Bilge Alarm Control, Page 21.

4T1: Windshield Wiper/Washer Controls

The windshield wipers are controlled by the three knobs on the safety panel above the helm to starboard. Turning the knob turns on the wiper, the further you turn it clockwise the faster it runs.

Pressing a knob will activate the washers for all three windshields.


Section 5: “What to Do If” for Some Specific Concerns5A: ANCHOR CHAIN WON’T COME OUT OF CHAIN LOCKERThe anchor chain is continuous, secured at both ends, and cannot tangle. But sometimes a pile of chain will fall over, and one loop of chain will fall through another loop. Usually you can clear this by grasping the chain where it exits the hawse pipe from the chain locker with your hands, and pulling it up or down to “jiggle” the loop out of the chain; you may have to retrieve some chain to do this, in order to have enough slack to jiggle it! It is rare when this will not clear the jam. The other solution: Go below and clear the tangle in the chain locker. Caution: Turn off the windlass breaker to protect your hands when manhandling chain!

5B: ANCHOR FOULED, CAN’T RAISE ITThis can happen if you “pull the boat to the anchor” with the windlass. You should move the boat under power until it is over the anchor, or, even better, slightly ahead of it before hauling. Usually this will clear it. Otherwise, take a line and form a fixed, loose loop around the chain. Weight the loop, and lower it down the line until it reaches the bottom, sliding down the chain. Then, using the dinghy, take the line forward past the anchor so that you can pull the anchor out, opposite the direction its flukes are pointing. This should help you to pull the anchor free.

5C: ANCHOR WINDLASS WON’T TURNIf the motor isn’t running, is the circuit breaker by the lower helm on? If the motor is running, is the clutch tight? Use the anchor windlass handle. Windlasses are equipped with a shear pin to protect them: if you sheared the pin, you will have to haul the anchor by hand using the emergency handle.

5D: BATTERIES (HOUSE) KEEP RUNNING DOWNHave you run the engines or generator enough? Is something left on (like the engine room or mast lights, too many electronics, etc.) that is too great a load for the time you were not charging? Are you using the inverter for big jobs? Use the stove or shore power. Have you had the inverter on whenever plugged in to shore power or running the generator? You must, for the house batteries to charge!

5E: ENGINE OVERHEATSIs the drive belt for the water pump intact? Spare belts are in the engine room spares kit. Is the sea strainer clogged? See that section in this manual. Is the impeller shot? If sea strainer is clear and belt is good, this is likely. Change (spare in spares kit) or call a mechanic. Do not run engine if it overheats!

5F: ENGINE WON’T STARTIf starter does not turn, is transmission in neutral? Try jiggling shift lever while pushing start button. Check battery, battery switches. Try starting after switching the “Batt Parallel” switch on in the engine room. Or start generator, charge all the batteries. If starter turns, assume fuel problem: did you bump a fuel valve on the manifold at back of engine room? Make sure all open, if one was closed, re-prime engine or call a mechanic if you can’t do this (see Caterpillar engine manual).

5J: HEAD WON’T FLUSHIs breaker on? Turn it on. Have you over-filled the holding tank? Pump it to allow more effluent to enter it. See the “Heads” section of this manual. If all else fails, just use only the other head.


5K: HIT A FISH NETEngines in Neutral: don’t try to back off, you may foul the net more. Try pulling the boat back with the dinghy & outboard. Get assistance from the fisherman. You are responsible for damage you cause to a net!

5L: HIT A LOG OR ROCKSee EMERGENCY PROCEDURES, next chapter.

5M: PROPELLER FOULED OR DAMAGEDBest thing: have the prop checked by a diver or dive it yourself if able. Check for vibration. Try turning shaft by hand in engine room, both should be turn-able with engine in neutral. Is shaft noisy, or does it load engine? Do not use that side or call Vessel Assist. See emergency procedures, next chapter.

5N: WATER (FRESH) WON’T FLOWIs there water in the tank? Is F.W. Pump breaker on? If capable, check pressure switch on pump, run manually if necessary.


Section 6: Emergency Procedures6A: PROTECT YOUR LIVES FIRST...

• Put on life jackets• Contact the Coast Guard with an emergency “MAYDAY” call.• If adrift, prepare to anchor to keep the boat from drifting into danger. If the boat is really sinking, consider

“beaching it” if necessary.• Launch the dinghy and prepare to board if necessary. Take a handheld VHF radio, if available. Be sure to wear life

jackets!

6B: ...THEN, WORRY ABOUT THE BOAT!In a true emergency, you certainly are authorized to call for immediate commercial assistance as minimally required to assure the safety of you and the boat.

It is not an emergency, however, if neither you nor the boat are at risk.

6C: IF YOU THINK IT MAY NOT BE AN EMERGENCY:If you have any concern about your long-term safety, contact the Coast Guard, either normally or using an urgent “PAN” call. Tell them that you are calling to advise them about your situation, so they can keep in touch.

Be sure that the status and safety of the boat and crew is someone’s responsibility while you sort out the boat’s problem. For example, delegate your mate to keep a watch for hazards, or to operate the boat on course slowly while you deal with the difficulty.

Here is a checklist for solving the problem:

(A) Isolate it;

(B) Get the manuals; (C) Get parts;

(D) If necessary, call vendors for help.

Over the years, most problems with boats are caused by misuse! Holding tanks overflow because they aren’t checked; heads clog because foreign matter (especially facial tissues and tampons) are put in them; engines fail because they run out of fuel, then must be “purged” to re-start. Use the boat carefully, and you’ll avoid these problems.

Almost all problems that are not operator-caused, i.e., that are boat deficiencies, are caused by pumps that fail, hoses and belts that break, and seawater strainers that get clogged. Generally, these problems are annoyances, and usually they are inconvenient, but they still can happen. Try to stay calm, collected, and be a professional by dealing with the problem in a businesslike, calm way. It will make everyone’s day a better one!


6D: HITTING A LOG, ROCK, OR DEBRIS ----- PLEASE DON’T!Hitting a log is a real risk in our Northern waters because logging, and “log rafts,” are such a big part of our commerce.

If you hit a log:

• Did you put a hole in the boat? Idle the engine, then think: usually, you can tell just by where the noise of the hit came from. Check the bilges (don’t forget the lazarette area, where the rudder posts are) after putting the engine into idle and/or neutral, if necessary.

If you did “hole” the boat, go immediately to the “If an Emergency” on the preceding pages.

• If no hole, and still idling, is the boat vibrating?

If “yes,” put the engine into neutral, try acceleratang it. If there is vibration or any unusual noise (grinding or squealing) shut down one main engine and use the other engine. Proceed to the closest safe harbor.

• If there is no vibration, you probably did no running gear damage. Congratulations! Have the boat checked by a diver as soon as possible.


INDEX

AAC 3, 10, 13-14, 18, 21, 23-28, 37-38AC Power Panel 24, 27Air Conditioning 18Alternator 28-29Ammeter 23, 25, 27Anchor 3-4, 11, 13-14, 16, 18-20, 23, 31-32, 38, 48, 50Anchoring 16-18Anchor Windlass 4, 20, 48Autopilot 7, 31-32

BBarbeque 5, 18, 21Battery 10, 14, 23, 25, 27-32, 34, 41, 48Battery Charger 25, 28-29Battery Combiner 28-29Bell 11Berth 8-9, 38, 42Bilge Pump 22, 31, 46

CCanvas 5CD 34Chain Locker 18-19, 48Chart 9Checklist 14, 50Circuit Breakers 30Cleaning 38, 46Coast Guard 2, 45, 50Coolant 13, 23-24, 35

DDavit 3-4, 11, 18, 22DC 10, 14, 18, 20-21, 25, 27-33, 37-38, 41-44, 46DC Power Panel 10, 33, 43Deck Chairs 11Depth Sounder 7, 16, 33Diesel Furnace 23Dinghy 3-5, 11, 17-18, 22-23, 48-50Dryer 23, 25, 27DVD 7, 34Dvd Player 7, 34

EElectronics 3, 5, 7, 11, 18, 32-34, 48Emergencies 28, 34Emergency 7, 9, 11, 29-30, 34, 36, 48-51Energy Monitor 31Engine 10-11, 13, 15-16, 21, 23-25, 27-29, 31-32, 34-40, 42, 44-46, 48-49, 51Exhaust 14, 24, 41

FFenders 11, 13, 15, 41Filters 10, 37-39Fire Extinguishers 6, 11Flares 11Flashlight 35Flybridge 3-5, 11, 21-22, 33-34, 41FM 34Freezer 7-8, 42Fresh Water 3, 10-11, 37-38, 44Fuel 4, 10-11, 13, 15, 18, 23, 31, 36, 39-40, 42, 45-46, 48, 50Fuel Fill 39Fuel Filters 39Fuel Tank 10-11, 13, 39, 45Furnace 10, 18, 23, 40-41

GGalley 7-8, 10, 18, 41-42Generator 3, 10, 13-14, 23-26, 28-29, 32, 37, 40, 46, 48Genset 10, 29, 38GPS 7, 32-33

HHandheld VHF 50Head 7-9, 11, 18, 22, 30, 33, 37, 43-45, 48Heater 10, 13, 24-25, 27, 37Hitting a Log 51Holding Tank 4, 9, 13, 43-45, 48Hose 11, 15, 21, 38-39Hydraulic 36, 45

IInverter 3, 7, 10, 13-14, 25, 27-29, 45, 48


KKey 23, 32-33

LLaw 38Life Ring 11Lines 11, 13, 17-18, 37, 43Log 7, 32, 49, 51

MManeuvering 13, 15-16, 32, 34Manuals 7, 50Mayday 50Meters 13, 21, 26Microwave 7, 25, 27-28, 41

NNavnet 33

OOil 10, 13, 23-24, 34-36, 40Oil Leak 35Oil Pressure 24, 34Outboard 3, 10-11, 18, 22-23, 28-29, 49Owner 2-3, 45

PPlotter 7, 33-34Polarity 26-27Power Monitor 31Prime 33, 39Propane 5, 7, 21, 25, 41-43Propeller 49Pump 10-11, 21-23, 30-31, 35-40, 43-46, 48-49

RRadar 7, 32-34Radio 28, 34, 50Refrigerator 7, 42Reset 41Restart 24Reverse Polarity 26-27Rudder 15, 51

SSeacocks 46Sea Strainer 10, 23, 35, 46, 48Sea Water 24, 27-28, 38, 42, 46Shaft 10, 45, 49Shore Line 11, 16-17Shore Power 4, 6, 13-14, 24-28, 37, 41, 48Shower 8-9, 38Spares 48Stabilizers 18, 31, 36, 45Starting 10, 13-14, 24-25, 28-29, 48Stereo 7, 28, 34Stern Line 15, 17Sundeck 4, 11, 21-22, 41

TTable 7, 40Temperature 33-34, 41, 43Throttles 13, 15Tools 7Transmission Oil 36TV 7, 25, 27, 34

VVHF 11, 32, 34, 50Voltage 20, 25-26, 28-29, 31, 41Voltmeter 20, 23, 27

WWake 13, 32Washdown 38Washer 23, 47Water Fill 37Water Heater 10, 13, 25, 27, 37Watermaker 10, 37-38Windlass 4, 14, 16, 18-20, 31, 46, 48Winds 15-16Windshield Wiper 7, 46-47

INDEX

NW Explorations 2623 South Harbor Loop Bellingham, Washington 98225

www.nwexplorations.com | (800) 826-1430 | (360) 676-1248

Patos - NW Explorations

Documents

Transcript of Patos - NW Explorations