NAFA2015, Warzaw

Pata negra A social, cultural, audio-visual and

sensorial ethnography of the Iberian pig

A presentation by Peter I. Crawford

(Camera as Cultural Critique Research Programme, Department of Social Anthropology,

University of Aarhus, Denmark)

based on a project conducted together with Jan Ketil Simonsen

(Department of Social Anthropology, University of Trondheim/NTNU, Norway)

06/02/16

NAFA2015, Warzaw

The point of departure of the project is to follow a pig from it is born, through its growing up, until it is finally slaughtered, salted, matured, sold, and eventually consumed, i. e. lying in our bellies.

06/02/16

The subjective starting point or the protagonist is thus the pig, the idea being to explore the diverse social and cultural contexts of pig farming, preparation/production, and consumption.

06/02/16 NAFA2015, Warzaw

There are a number of significant contexts: •  The local context of pig rearing, maturing,

classification systems and rituals (dealing with pigs)

•  The regional context (Extremadura and Badajoz, and eventually the national level) in which the Iberian pig is used in identity negotiations at national and global levels

•  The governmental level of veterinary and food safety authorities and control

•  And cooperatives, associations etc dealing with marketing and global sales through, for example, the internet.

06/02/16 NAFA2015, Warzaw

There are three forms of pig rearing in the production of Pata Negra: 1. Traditional 2. Semi-commercial 3. Commercial

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The traditional form follows the natural cyclus of two litters per year in which one of the litters is reared to produce pata negra ham and released into the oak fields to be fattened the final months before they are slaughtered. The weight exceeds 200 kgs, the whole process taking up until 14 to 16 months. The pig is slaughtered in the winter, started by a ritual, matanza, in February. 06/02/16 NAFA2015, Warzaw

The semi-commercial, or semi-traditional, methods follow the natural reproductive cyclus, but use modern farrowing crates (incidentally developed by Danish pig farmers, and used to prevent the deaths of piglets).

06/02/16 NAFA2015, Warzaw

The commercial production regulates reproduction with artificial insemination and, combined with particular feeding patterns, may reduce the total time needed for the ideal slaughtering weight of 200 kgs to nine months.

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Where? The Carrascal family’s farm is in the district (comarca) of Tentudia in the transition from Sierra Aracena to the central tablelands of Badajoz, characterised by the oak woods providing the traditional and natural environment for the Iberian pig, a mixture between ’damp’ and ’clay-like’ land called Tierra de barros. This has for centuries constituted so-called agrosilvopastoral production, combining crops, trees and animals/pastures, in Spanish dehesas. The biggest town in the district is Fuente de Cantos, where the Carrascals have their domestic home, and Rafael his abattoir.

06/02/16 NAFA2015, Warzaw

The production cyclus: Two litters, one in March and one in the Autumn (the one used for Pata Negra). In the autumn selected pigs are let out in the oak fields on the hills, feeding then exclusively on acorns (bellota) in a period called la montanera, at a time when they weigh around 130-140 kgs.

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When? The montanera is usually from October until January. It is followed by the matanza slaughtering ritual in February, when the pigs are slaughtered, salted and hung up to cure, the maturation taking up to 3 years.

06/02/16 NAFA2015, Warzaw

06/02/16 NAFA2015, Warzaw

Referring to new trends in visual anthropology, focusing on local visualising practices, and challenging the boundaries between art and science, it could be interesting to seek inspiration in local visual forms of expression and traditions, which then would become a kind of intertextual reference points.

NAFA2015, Warzaw 06/02/16

Francisco de Zurbarán (1598-1664)

Known for his religious but also still life paintings. Born in Fuente de Cantos and the town’s great son. Despite the fact we have been unable to find a painting of pigs we have examples of his visual testimony to traditional forms of production.

NAFA2015, Warzaw 06/02/16

NAFA2015, Warzaw 06/02/16

06/02/16 NAFA2015, Warzaw

06/02/16 NAFA2015, Warzaw