Pastry & Baking Volume 2 Issue 4 2008

Volume 2 Issue 4 2008

N O R T H A M E R I C A

PA

STR

Y &

BA

KIN

G N

OR

TH

AM

ER

ICA

VO

LUM

E 2 ISSU

E 4 2008

W W W . PA S T R Y N A . C O MW W W . PA S T R Y N A . C O M

Amoretti World PastryTeam Championship

Winning Big in Macau

Amoretti World PastryTeam Championship

Winning Big in Macau

RC Cola and Moon PiePhoto by Brian Dressler

2 Pastry & Baking North America

Letter From The Editor

Regards,

Joseph Marcionette

Editor-in-ChiefEmail: [email protected]

In ancient China there was a saying: “May you live ininteresting times.” It was as much a curse as anything. Butsometimes the most difficult times are the most interestingand the most rewarding too. They challenge us, they test us,and occasionally they can even bring out the best in us. Sothe saying was as much a blessing as a curse. And the timeswe are living in are nothing if not interesting.

Summer is over, the Olympics have come and gone andstill looming is the ever bleak global economies. So, do

we curl up in a ball and lament that which is beyondour control? I think not.

You’ve chosen a path few can handle. Sacrifices youmake on a daily basis have prepared you for just theseoccasions. Long hours, stressful work environments,pressure, low wages, little job security etc. All in adays work for the foodservice professional.

When everyone else is losing their heads andpanicking, it’s time for you to think back to why you got

into this line of work? What tempted you to enter such ademanding and tiring occupation? Where you someone whosought out continual anxiety and loved the thought ofworking over every weekend and holidays? No. It is aboutpassion. Passion for creation, artistry, team accomplishmentand providing happiness and delight to others.

So, at the end of the day, even though the economic skiesare cloudy, take solace in the fact you are pursuing yourpassion. And, now, more than ever, the world needs pastrychefs, bakers, chocolatiers, ice cream makers, confectioners,sweets enthusiasts and all those who work so hard to putsmiles on the faces of others. Keep doing what you do. Yourskills and passion are very important and greatly appreciated.

The Value of Passion

ngaging customers

with fresh, gourmet

chocolates and pastries

has never been so easy.

Many of the world’s leading

establishments have already

found the beautifully

handcrafted creations of

Norman Love Confections

to be a valuable addition

to their already impressive

offering. Innovatively

packaged for consistent

and convenient delivery,

Norman Love Confections

puts the power of LOVE

into your hands.

TO ORDER: 11380 Lindbergh Boulevard, Fort Myers, Florida

239.561.7215 • www.NormanLoveConfections.com

800.347.9477 • www.scff.com • E-mail: [email protected]

E

REPRESENTED BY

24

46

34


Pastry&bakingN O R T H A M E R I C A

24World PastryTeamChampionshipA week after the closingceremonies in Beijing – Gold,Silver, and Bronze medals wereonce again awarded to the bestand most talented teams in theworld, but this time it was at theAmoretti® 2008 World PastryTeam Championship.

34Ben’s LabBen Roche is the pastry chef atMoto Restaurant in Chicago.Fascinated with science afterdiscovering Alka Seltzer “bombs”as a kid, Ben’s approach to pastryis unconventional.

46Chef in FocusChef Jason Licker returns to Asiato take on his “Mt. Everest”challenge and run the pastrykitchen in the world’s largestcasino located in Macau.

6Off The WireThe latest news, happenings,

events and product updates for

the well informed professional.

14Regional ShowcaseJoin P&B NA on a tour of North

America and beyond as we

visit with and showcase talented

professionals who share their

favorite recipes.

42Grand GateauxAs one of Australia’s most celebrated

pastry chefs, Kirsten Tibballs

presents Grand Gateaux and her

original take on great cakes.

62Wild SweetsThe Dubys dazzle with their leading

edge approach to innovative

creations.

House Specials


Off The Wire

News, events andhappenings fromaround the region

First United StatesChocolate AcademyBarry Callebaut, the world’s leading manufacturer of high-quality cocoa and chocolate, is proud to announce the formalopening of the Company’s first United States ChocolateAcademy. This Academy demonstrates the Company’scommitment to building its business in North America andstrengthening its relationships with the chocolatiers and chefsof the United States.

“By means of demonstrations, theory classes and workshops,we’re passing on Barry Callebaut’s expertise and passion forchocolate,” said Patrick Peeters, technical advisor for theChocolate Academies. Courses are designed to inspire artisansand culinary professionals, including pastry chefs, confectioners,bakers and caterers from around the globe. The Academy willprovide an arena for participants to share their passion for finechocolate with other skilled professionals, to improve theirskills in working with fine chocolate products, such as Callebaut(fine Belgian chocolate), Cacao Barry (exquisite Frenchchocolate) and Carma (high-quality Swiss chocolate), and tolearn more about the latest chocolate-making trends, techniquesand recipes.

Classes will begin in October in the state-of-the-art 8,500square-foot training center in Chicago’s River Northneighborhood. As the 12th Chocolate Academy location in theworld, the space showcases the knowledge that Barry Callebaut

has accumulated andencourages the exchangeof technical expertise.Fro m i n t ro d u c to r ycourses on the origins ofchocolate to specializedclasses in the techniquesof molding, enrobing andsculpting chocolate, theChocolate Academy’s training is specifically designed toencourage participants to apply and broaden their technicalskills under the guidance of trained Barry Callebaut MasterChocolatiers.

Award-winning French pastry chef, Jerome Landrieu, willserve as technical advisor for the Academy. He has worked inseveral leading pastry shops and restaurants in France and hasstudied under three chefs who have earned the prestigious title,Meilleur Ouvrier de France (M.O.F.). Chef Landrieu has justcompleted his fourth year at the Bellouet Conseils School, aParisian school for the art of desserts, and is looking forwardto sharing his experience with Academy participants as well asworking with Barry Callebaut’s gourmet chocolates. “It’s aperfect fit,” he says.

For more information on the new Chicago location of theBarry Callebaut Chocolate Academy, to request a course catalogand to register for classes, please call or email 1-866-443-0460and [email protected].

7

Chef Andy ChlebanaNational Pastry Chef ofthe YearR. Andrew Chlebana II, certified executive pastry chef (CEPC)of Plainfield, Ill., received the American Culinary Federation,Inc., (ACF) National Pastry Chef of the Year Award at ACF’s58th annual National Convention in Las Vegas, July 14-17. The2008 ACF Pastry Chef of the Year Award recognizes a pastrychef who has displayed a passion for the craft, has anaccomplished reputation in the pastry field and has given backthrough the education of others by sharing his or her skills andknowledge.

Chef Chlebana, currently the pastry chef at White EagleGolf Club in Naperville and culinary instructor at Joliet JuniorCollege, swept the regional competition in February to becomea contender for the national title in July. He competed againstthree chefs at the national convention in Las Vegas, taking partin a timed baking competition where he prepared a plateddessert, a cake and a showpiece, with the caveat that each recipehad to incorporate Splenda®. Judges evaluated Chlebana’scooking skills, menu taste and professionalism, and Chlebana’screations rose above the other regional semifinalist’s pieces toearn him the title of National Pastry Chef of the Year.

Las Vegas was the location of the 2008 ACF NationalConvention. Bringing more than 2,000 chefs, cooks, foodserviceprofessionals to the city, the event featured more than 150exhibitors, national competitions and awards.

The American Culinary Federation, Inc., established in1929, is the premier professional organization for culinariansin North America. With more than 21,500 members spanning230 chapters nationwide, ACF is the culinary leader in offeringeducational resources, training, apprenticeship andaccreditation. In addition, ACF operates the most comprehensivecertification program for chefs in the United States. ACF ishome to ACF Culinary Team USA, the official representativefor the United States in major international culinarycompetitions.

For more information, visit www.acfchefs.org.

New Mini Drop ShapeFlexipanDemarle USA recently introduced their new Mini Drop shapeFlexipan mould. This new size is perfectly designed to work wellfor making beautiful bite size baked, frozen, or chocolate delights.The new shape comes in a 56 mould arrangement for use in an18 x 26 tray size.

Flexipan moulds are made using the highest quality siliconematerials integrated onto fiberglass mesh material. These non-stick moulds are incredibly durable, never need greasing, andare NSF and Kosher certified. Flexipan is the ideal choice forinnovative bakery, pastry, chocolate, and frozen desert creations.

Demarle USA is part of the SASA Industrie Group, one ofthe premier manufacturers of baking trays and silicone moulds& mats. The group sells into the artisan, pastry, retail, gourmet,foodservice, and industrial baking industries. Among thecompanies most popular products are Sasa, Demarle, Silpat®,Fiberlux®, Flexipan®, Flexipat®, Silform®, and Roul’Pat®.

Demarle S.A., was founded 1965 and merged with SASA in2000. SASA Industrie Group and its subsidiaries currentlyemploy nearly 500 people in four production facilities all locatedin France, has offices in Germany, Japan, United Kingdom, theUnited States and exports to over 120 countries worldwide.

For more information call 1 888 – FLEX-PAN or visitwww.DemarleUSA.com

Call for CompetitorsEntry forms are now available for the 20th annual U.S. PastryCompetition to be held at the International Foodservice Showof New York on March 1, 2009.

Presented by Paris Gourmet and sponsored by Cacao Noel,Ravifruit and Pastry 1, this installment of the competition willfeature Give My Regards To Broadway! as the chocolate & sugarshowpiece theme with each contestant vying for points in theareas of visual appeal, artistic presentation, technique, originalityand creativity.

With cash prizes and the coveted Pastry Chef of the Year titleon the line, entries must be postmarked no later than December3, 2008. For more information on the event and downloadableentry form, please visit www.parisgourmet.com.


Off The Wire

Mr. Uster was an avid glider pilot, wine collector and gardener.

He was a philanthropist who created the popular Sweet Charity

event to support The Heart of America Foundation, a charity

combining service, learning and literacy to support the needs

of at-risk children. The event brought together pastry chefs and

chefs from the Washington, D.C. Metro Area’s leading hotels

and restaurants for a unique event that emphasized chocolate

as a metaphor for the sweetness and potential in every child.

Mr. Uster is survived by his daughters Jenny Schaepper-

Uster, Scarlett Uster, and Kristen Narlinger-Goldner, his sons

Albert D. Uster, Adam Uster and Erik Goldner, his brothers

Hans Peter Uster and Henry Uster, and his close companion

Josephine S. Cooper.

Albert Uster Imports will continue to be led by President

and CEO Philipp Braun and the AUI team.

A funeral was held in Kuesnacht, Switzerland on August 8,

2008, followed by a celebration of Albert Uster’s life and

accomplishments on Sunday, August 24, 2008 at the Corcoran

Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C.

Albert Uster Loses Life inPlane Crash in The Swiss AlpsExecutive Chef, Philanthropist and Entrepreneur-Founderof Albert Uster Imports Dies at 75.

Albert Uster, Executive Chef, Founder and Chairman of the

Board of Albert Uster Imports, died in a sailplane crash in the

Swiss Alps on Friday, July 25, 2008 at age 75. The cause of the

crash is under investigation.

Swiss-born Albert Uster was a professional chef turned savvy

businessman and spent the last fifty years in an industry that

he treasured. After training at some of the finest restaurants in

Europe, Uster arrived at Ellis Island in the United States in 1954,

worked in New York and Houston, served in the U.S. Army in

Texas and attended the University of Houston, majoring in

industrial psychology and management. He opened three hotels

for the Hotel Corporation of America in Houston, New Orleans

and Hartford. And, while working as the executive sous-chef

at the Shamrock Hilton in Texas, he opened several more hotels

in Kansas City, Aurora and Atlanta.

It was while working at the Washington Hilton as an

Executive Chef that Mr. Uster formed the Restaurant

Corporation of America, partnering with Harold Giesinger,

Guido Gerosa and Sam Schattner. The group built a 30,000

square-foot restaurant at the Watergate Hotel, called The

Watergate Restaurant. To stock the pastry kitchen, Uster returned

to his Swiss roots and began importing quality chocolate and

other items such as fondant and marzipan – gourmet products

he could not find in the United States.

In 1980, Mr. Uster took his import enterprise out of the

Watergate and named it Albert Uster Imports. He built a

warehouse in Gaithersburg, Md., building the company by

forming strategic partnerships with Swiss manufacturers and

importing only the finest ingredients and products. He

introduced to the American palate Swiss couverture, a

professional-grade chocolate prized by gourmet chefs for its

glossy texture. The company eventually expanded into a

multimillion-dollar global enterprise Albert Uster Imports with

locations in Kansas City, San Francisco, Honolulu, Miami and

around the world.

In 1998, Uster passed the reins of the company to a new

Chief Executive Officer, Philipp Braun, remaining as chairman

of the board and proudly overseeing the expansion of the

company into the frozen food and savory food businesses. His

vision remains strongly embedded within the company’s name

and spirit.

Established in 1990, the James Beard FoundationAwards are a program of the James Beard Foundation, a501(c)(3) nonprofit organization whose mission is tocelebrate, nurture, and preserve America’s culinary heritageand diversity in order to elevate our appreciation of theculinary arts. For more information, to join as a member,to learn more about James Beard, or to sign up to receiveBeard Bites, the free electronic newsletter, visitwww.jamesbeard.org.

A cookbook author and teacher with an encyclopedicknowledge about food, James Beard, who died in 1985,was a champion of American cuisine. He helped educateand mentor generations of professional chefs and foodenthusiasts. Today, the Beard Foundation continues in thesame spirit by administering a number of diverse programsthat include educational initiatives, food industry awards,scholarships to culinary schools, and publications, and bymaintaining the historic James Beard House in New YorkCity’s Greenwich Village as a “performance space” forvisiting chefs.

Outstanding Pastry Chef Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robinson.

Outstanding Pastry ChefThe James Beard Foundation Awards shine a spotlight onthe best and brightest talent in the food and beverageindustry.

This year’s Outstanding Pastry Chef award went toElisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robinson of Tartine Bakeryin San Francisco (tartinebakery.com).

Covering all aspects of the industry – from chefs andrestaurateurs to cookbook authors and food journaliststo restaurant designers and architects and more – theJames Beard Foundation Awards are the highest honorsfor food and beverage professionals working in America.The awards are presented at Avery Fisher Hall at LincolnCenter. Nominees and winners are féted at a weekend ofgala events in New York City that has become the socialand gastronomic highlight of the year.

1220 West Nickerson Street, Seattle, WA 98119866-ZOKA-NOW (866-965-2669)

I

Named 2008 Macro Roaster of the Yearby Roast Magazine

Home of Barista Champions

Trust your coffee program to the proven experts:

Serve perfection. Artisan pastries deserve artisan coffee.

New Online Job ServiceThe Retail Bakers of America (RBA) will launch itsinteractive job board – the RBA Job Center – offeringits members and the baking industry at large an easy-to-use and highly targeted resource for onlineemployment connections. The launch will take place atRBA’s annual convention, the American Bakery Expoin Atlantic City.

“We are very excited about RBA’s Job Center becausewe know how critical it is for employees in the bakingindustry to attract first-rate talent with a minimumexpenditure of time and resources,” said AleksandraSyska, RBA’s Director of Membership. “And it’simportant for us to enable smooth career transitionsfor those seeking industry jobs.”

Both members and non-members can use RBA’sJob Center to reach qualified candidates. Employerscan post jobs online, search for qualified candidatesbased on specific job criteria, and create an onlineresume agent to e-mail qualified candidates daily. Theyalso benefit from online reporting that provides jobactivity statistics.

For job seekers, RBA’s Job Center is a free servicethat provides access to employers and job in the bakingindustry. In addition to posting their resumes, jobseekers can browse and view available jobs based ontheir criteria, and save those jobs for later review if theychoose. Job seekers can also create a search agent toprovide e-mail notifications of jobs that match theircriteria.

The Retail Bakers of America (RBA) is a 501(c)6not-for-profit trade association located in McLean, VAwhose membership consists of retail bakeries, industrysuppliers, educators, students, culinary colleges andother industry partners, is committed to the success ofthe retail baking industry. Celebrating its 90thanniversary year, RBA works as the business partnerand resource provider for bakers across the country,and is the nation’s premier source for industryinformation. More information is available atwww.rbanet.com or call (800) 638-0924.

Off The Wire


Off The Wire

After her apprenticeship in Belgium, Ferber went to Paris towork for Chef Lucien Pelletier, a renowned pastry chef whoappreciated Ferber’s ambition, strength, and the fact that shewas from Alsace, a region known for its tenacious workers. Atage 18, she competed and won the Championnat de France, anational pastry competition.

After returning to her home in Alsace, Ferber worked towardher dream, contributing pastries to her parents’ business. Sheoften went to Colmar and Strasbourg to gaze at the beautifulpâtisseries and dreamed of one day owning her own pastry shop,as fine and as stunning as those she visited in the neighboringcities. She had no intention in those days of creating a jambusiness. After all, nearly everyone in the village had their owngarden and did their own canning. She made jams and jellies,but had no intention of selling them, until one day when a visitorto the family épicerie noticed one of her lovely jars of cherrypreserves on the shelf.

“That’s not for sale,” Ferber’s mother, who had declared thatshe was the jam maker in the household, told the visitor. “That’sjust for decoration,” explained her aunt. Nevertheless, they soldthe jar of cherries to their customer. Despite her family’s doubtand “affectionate criticism” as Ferber said, she continued makingjam and found that their clientele enjoyed her innovative creations.It became a game for Ferber, coming up with new recipes. Withpractice, she became an expert in understanding fruit and theconditions which facilitate ideal flavors. She used only fresh,seasonal ingredients and developed close relationships with thelocal farmers. She continued to make pastries as well and foundthat one supported the other: someone came to their store forjam and bought pastries, and vice versa.

Ferber’s jams were first recognized in the national Frenchnewspaper, Le Figaro in 1992. Today she is visited every weekendby journalists, writers, and enthusiasts eager to see and taste herjams and pastries. Her products and books are sold worldwide,as far away as Japan whose sales make up one quarter of herearnings. She still operates out of her parents’ épicerie whichcontinues to earn three percent of the total revenue.

Christine Ferber’s visitors, readers, and students can discernthat her dedication, imagination, talent, passion, hard work, andthe homegrown fruits of Alsace are some of the qualities thatmake her the Queen of Jam. But to understand completely, youhave to taste her jam for yourself!

The French Pastry School’s L’Art de la P‚tisserie programoffers a 24-week course to learn in an intimate, hands-on setting,using state-of-the art equipment and top-of-the-line ingredients.The French Pastry School also hosts more than 500 foodenthusiasts and professionals who come to The French PastrySchool for three-day classes as a part of the Continuing Educationprogram. Information about the school’s programs can be foundat www.frenchpastryschool.com.

Christine Ferber has earned more than international acclaimas a Master Pastry Chef and Master Jam Maker, more thannational awards for excellence in her craft, and more thanorders for jam from the President of France. She’s done morethan publish a variety of books on jams and pastries, translatedinto many languages, and still more than received invitationsto teach all over the world: she has earned the nickname, “TheQueen of Jams and Jellies.”

Professionals in the pastry world came this past Augustfrom all over the country to gain from The Queen’s wisdom.Before sharing the secrets of her confiture recipes such as herAlsatian Apple Jam, Strawberry & Elderberry Blossom Jam,Wild Raspberry & Chocolate Jam, Pear & Fig Jam, or SpicedBell Pepper Chutney, to name a few, Ferber addressed her newstudents in English, in a warm, serene voice, telling them abouther history and the story of her inspiring career. Clearly, herlisteners were in the presence of a master truly devoted to hercraft, someone, as she explained, who has been working towardher goals for more than 30 years.

Ferber told her students she comes from a village of 350people called Niedermorschwihr in Alsace, France, locatedapproximately five miles west of Colmar, about 50 milessoutheast of Strasbourg, and found along the beautiful routedes vins d’Alsace. Located in the Haut-Rhin department, thevillage is nestled in an area that produces several grape varieties.The rich soil and relatively dry climate create an idealenvironment for growing grapes and other fruit. The one-roadvillage is comprised of old stone houses and a gothic churchin the center of the town with a steeple dating back to the 13thcentury. Christine Ferber’s father came to the village in 1959,the year before Ferber was born, to open an épicerie, or smallgrocery store. Soon, he began baking breads for their clients,all of whom came from the village. The town was not connectedby any greater road to other towns, so their only clientele camefrom Niedermorschwihr. Ferber dreamed of learning the artof pastry and adding this dimension to the family business,but pastry apprenticeships at that time were available only tomen. So, at age 16 she went to Belgium where she studied forthree years. “Learn pastry, and you can travel,” her father hadtold her.

Chicago WelcomesThe Queen of Jam

Wild Sweets Chocolate has received internationalcritical acclaim including second place for ‘Best ChocolateBook in the World’ at the 2008 Gourmand WorldCookbook Awards in London, England. For moreinformation or to purchase signed copies of the book,please visit www.dcduby.com

Launch CelebrationStar chef Charlie Trotter and his team at Restaurant Charlie(located in the Palazzo Hotel in Las Vegas) welcomed chefsDominique and Cindy Duby to celebrate their most recentcookbook – Wild Sweets Chocolate. The pastry team atRestaurant Charlie is headed by Aaron Lindgren, but ChefTrotter also flew in Della Gosset, pastry chef at CharlieTrotter’s Restaurant in Chicago as well as Michelle Gayer,former pastry chef and co-author of Charlie Trotter’sDesserts book for the event.

More than 120 guests attended the high profile eventas the internationally famous chocolate couple provedtheir culinary artistry and passion. The Duby’s presentedmany of their exquisite savory-sweet recipes from theirbook including the ‘Cherry Bite’ made of an ancho 70%chocolate ganache, dried cherry in aged balsamic vinegarand crispy maple bacon on a wonton ‘chip’. Bar Charlie’schefs also prepared luxurious savory samplings includingJapanese eel with grapefruit and battera kombu and diversea scallops with preserved kumquats and Thai chili.


RegionalShowcase


Regional Showcase

Quinoa Pound Cake

Executive Pastry Chef

Custom House500 S Dearborn St.Chicago, IL 60605Tel: (312) 523-0200www.customhouse.cc

Elissa Narow

Quinoa Pound Cake45g milk3 eggs11/2 tsp vanilla75g cake flour75g quinoa flour150g sugar3/4 tsp baking powder1/4 tsp salt184g butter (soft)

1. Place all dry ingredients in mixer bowland mix with paddle for 1 minute toincorporate.

2. Whisk together milk, eggs and vanilla. Add butter and half the liquid to driesand mix until moistened.

3. Add remaining liquids and mix for 2minutes until smooth. Spread on aquarter sheet tray lined withparchment.

4. Bake at 350°F until golden. When cool,cut into 11/2 inch squares.

Ginger Ice Cream2 cup heavy cream2 cup milk2 oz ginger/peeled and sliced1 cup + 2 tbsp sugar9 egg yolks

1. Combine cream, milk, 1 cup sugar andginger in a sauce pot. Bring up to scaldand steep for 1 hour.

2. After cream has been infused reheat.Whisk remaining 1/2 cup sugar with theyolks.

3. Temper the ginger cream mixture withthe yolks. Return to the pot and cookuntil nappe. Strain through chinoisand chill in an ice bath. Spin in icecream machine.

Cherry Compote2 cup sour cherries – pitted1/2 cup sugar1 tsp lemon juice1 tbsp tapioca starchPinch salt

1. Mix sugar, salt and tapioca together.Stir in cherries and lemon juice.

2. Cook over medium heat untilthickened. Stirring frequently so asnot to burn.

Cherry Chip1 cup cherries1/4 cup sugar

1. Bring to boil. Reserve 1/2c liquid forthe sauce.

2. Puree and spread thinly onto sipat.Dry in dehydrator or low oven untilcrisp. Break into shards.

Cherry Sweet Soy SyrupPlace the reserved cherry liquid in a smallpot. Add 1 tsp sweet soy sauce and bringto low boil. Cool and place in syringefor plating

Candied Ginger1 knob ginger

1. Peel ginger. Slice thinly and blanch3 times.

2. Cook in simple syrup until tender.Strain/dry and toss in sugar. Juliennewhen needed.

Assembly1. Draw a diagonal line on plate with

cherry sweet soy syrup.

2. Place 3 squares of cake on plate in aline.

3. Top 2 squares with cherry compote.Place a quenelle of ginger ice creamon third square. Garnish with cherrychip and candied ginger.

Your Notes

Chicago

19

Quinoa Pound Cake


Regional Showcase

Poached Quince, Spiced Shortbread,Lemon Verbena Ice Cream

Pastry Chef

River Café200 Barclay Parade South WestCalgary, AB T2P 4R5, Canada(403) 261-7670www.river-cafe.com

Andy Bujak

Yield: 10

Poached Quince5 quince1 cup sherry2 cups sugar4 cups water1 vanilla bean2 star anise1 cinnamon stick

1. Scrape the vanilla pod and add thebeans and pod to a pot.

2. Add to the pot the sherry, water, sugar,vanilla bean, star anise and cinnamonstick and bring to a simmer.

3. Peel the quince and cut in quarters.Remove the core and dice into 1/2 inchpieces. Add the quince to the pot andsimmer gently for about 11/2 hours.The quince should be a rusty goldencolor and very tender. Let the quincecool in the liquid to room temperature.

4. Strain the liquid from the quince.Bring the liquid to a simmer andreduce until you have 2 cups of liquid.Cool and pour over poached quince.

Spiced Shortbread1 cup butter, room temperature2 cups flour1/2 cup icing sugar1/4 tsp salt1/8 tsp ginger1/8 tsp cinnamon1/8 tsp nutmeg

1. Preheat an oven to 325°F

2. Cream the butter and the sugar untillight and fluffy.

3. And the flour, salt, and spices.

4. Mix until just about to come together.

5. Bring the dough together with yourhands to prevent overworking thedough.

6. On a lightly floured surface roll outthe dough to a 1/2 inch thickness.

7. Using a 2 inch diameter cookie cutter,cut the dough and place on a bakingsheet. Bake for about 12 minutes oruntil lightly golden in color.

Lemon Verbena Ice Cream2 cups heavy cream2cups milk1/2 cup sugar1/4 cup corn syrup1 cup lemon verbena leaves, packed12 large egg yolks

1. In a pot steep the cream, milk andlemon verbena. Do not let the creamcome to a boil.

2. In a bowl combine yolks, sugar andcorn syrup. Whisk until fullycombined.

3. Temper the cream into the egg yolkmixture.

4. Place the mixture into a clean pot andon low heat cook the mixture, whilecontinuously stirring to avoid overcooking the eggs, until it forms a thicksauce and coats the spoon.

5. Pour the custard through a chinoisinto a clean bowl. Place that bowl overan ice water bath and stir the custardoccasionally until cool.

6. Refrigerate the ice cream baseovernight.

7. Turn the ice cream according themanufacturers instructions.

Assembly1. Place a round of shortbread in the

center of a plate.

2. Place poached quince around theshortbread making sure that some ofthe liquid gets on the plate.

3. Place a scoop of ice cream on top ofthe shortbread and garnish the fruitwith lemon geranium flowers.

Your Notes

Calgary

17

Poached Quince, Spiced Shortbread,Lemon Verbena Ice Cream


Regional Showcase

Four Moons “Moon Pies”

Pastry Chef

Four MoonsOrangeburg, SCTel: (803) 531-1984www.fourmoons.com

Colleen Zeran

Chocolate Cake1 cup butter, softened21/4 cups sugar1 cup cocoa powder, euro dark2 tsp baking powder1/2 tbsp baking soda23/4 cups all purpose flour1 tbsp salt3 eggs, large2 cups hot water

1. Combine softened butter and sugartogether in mixing bowl with paddleattachment.

2. Cream until light yellow and slowlyadd eggs, scraping well. Alternate thedry ingredients with the water untilwell combined.

3. Line sheet or two half sheet pans withparchment, pour mixture evenly andbake at 350°F until tester comes outclean in center.

Graham Crackers8 oz. whole wheat flour4 oz. all purpose flour1/2 tsp salt1/2 tsp baking soda1 tbsp cold water2 oz. unsalted butter, softened31/2 oz. sugar43/4 oz. honey11/2 oz. dark molasses1 egg, large

1. Combine wheat flour, all purpose flourand salt, set aside.

2. Cream together butter and sugar untillight and pale in color. Add the honeyand molasses and the egg, scrape well.

3. In small bowl combine water andbaking soda. Then add to creamedmixture.

4. Add half of the dry ingredients untilcombined then add the remaining.

5. Form dough into a disk and refrigerateovernight. Roll out dough into 1/8”thick and place on parchment linedsheet pans.

6. Bake at 325°F until lightly goldenbrown.

Vanilla Banana Filling2 cups mascarpone cheese1 cup heavy cream1/2 cup sugarVanilla Bean, scraped3 ripe bananasBanana liqueur to taste

In mixing bowl with whip attachmentmix all ingredients together until wellcombined and thickened.

Assembly1. Place one layer of chocolate cake on

work surface. Take one pan of grahamcracker and brush with banana liqueurplace this side towards chocolate cake.

2. Brush the top of the graham crackerwith more banana liqueur. Press thetwo layers firmly together.

3. Spread the vanilla banana fillingevenly over the graham layer.Continue with another layer ofgraham brushed with banana liqueurand top with chocolate cake.

4. Wrap tightly and place it freezer untilalmost frozen, then cut into a moonshape.

5. Melt equal parts bittersweet chocolateand cocoa butter and place in aWagner paint sprayer. Coat moon pieevenly and allow to dry before coatingwith gold dust.

South Carolina

21

Four Moons “Moon Pies”C2008 Brian Dressler / dresslerphoto.com


Regional Showcase

Warm Apple Crisp with Honey Gelato

Pastry Chef

Voice Restaurant and Lounge, Hotel Icon220 Main StreetHouston, Texas 77002Tel: 832.667.4470www.hotelicon.com/voice-restaurant

Charles Allen

Crisp Topping2 cps all purpose flour2 cps whole wheat flour2 cps brown sugar2 cps plain sugar1 tsp salt4 tsp cinnamon1 tbsp nutmeg2 cps butter

Sift dry and spices together. With a pastrycutter, cut butter into dry ingredientsuntil it resembles coarse cornmeal.Spread evenly over apple filling. Bakeuntil golden brown at 375°F.

Apple Filling6 medium granny smith apples peeled,cored, cut into1/3 inch slices1/2 cup sugar2 tbsp all purpose flour

Mix apples with the flour sugar mixtureand let sit for 1 hour. Fill ramekins.Cover with above topping.

Honey Gelato16 oz cream8 oz milk8 oz honey5 oz egg yolks1 cinnamon stick

Basic ice cream base cooked to 180°F.

Your Notes

Houston

23

Warm Apple Crisp with Honey Gelato


Competitions

Amoretti 2008World Pastry Team

Championship

Team USA

25

A week after the closing ceremonies in Beijing – Gold,Silver, and Bronze medals were once again awardedto the best and most talented teams in the world,

Team Scores

but this time it was at the Amoretti® 2008 World Pastry TeamChampionship. Hosted by Carymax, an event production companybased in New York, the event took place at the Gaylord OprylandConvention Center & Resort in Nashville USA on August 31 andSeptember 1, 2008. The Amoretti-sponsored event attracted teamsfrom Belgium, China, Italy, Mexico, Russia, South Korea, as wellas Japan and Switzerland.

Team USA took the Gold medal, captained by Laurent Branlard,renowned Executive Pastry Chef at the Walt Disney World Swanand Dolphin Hotel, with teammates Stéphane Tréand, ExecutivePastry Chef at the St. Regis Resort, Monarch Beach, CA, and DimitriFayard, owner of Vanille Patisserie in Chicago.

The Silver medal was won by Team Japan. Consisting of HidekiKawamura, Team Captain, Chef/Owner of Patisserie A Tes Souhaits,Tokyo; Koji Fujita, Pastry Chef, Hiro Coffee, Osaka; and KoichiIzumi, Pastry Chef, Salon de the Cerisier, Toyko.

Team Switzerland took the Bronze Medal. Members were:Guilano Sargenti, Team Captain, Head of Development, ConfiseurLäderach, AG; Elias Läderach, Production Development ConfiseurLäderach, AG, Ennenda; and Fabian Rimann, Chef-Patissier, HotelBaur au Lac, Zurich.

The teams competed creating masterful entremets, entremetglacé, three different types of chocolate bon bons and petits gateaux,a pastillage tray, and plated desserts, culminating with the piecesde resistance: the Sugar Showpiece and the Chocolate Showpiece.During the grueling 13-hour long competition, pounds of sugarwere sprayed, blown, spun, stretched, twisted, and decorated intounique delectable art forms all inspired by the event theme“Imagination”.

USA 347 76 67.5 70.3 68 80.7 345 1054.5

ARTISTIC PLATEDDESSERT

BONBONS ENTREMET ENTREMETGLACE

PETITSGATEAUX

WORK TOTAL

JAPAN 335 48 50 61 68 62.7 336.5 961.2

SWITZERLAND 290.3 63.2 60 45 60 62.3 311 891.9

ITALY 272.8 51.2 52 76 77.3 58 303.8 891.1

BELGIUM 250 74.4 35.5 73.7 66 76.3 295 870.9

SOUTH KOREA 232 47.2 46 47.3 52 46.7 238.8 710

CHINA 146.2 -4.4 31.7 37 -3.3 38.5 270.2 515.9

MEXICO 112.5 28 15.7 41.5 40 6 217 460.7

RUSSIA 92 33.6 27 35 32 -9.5 195.8 405.9

USA Showpiece

Competitions

Held every even-numbered year, the World Pastry TeamChampionships feature teams of three pastry chefs, eachcompeting over a course of two days for the first place cash prizeof $50,000, with a total of $100,000 handed out among the topthree medaling teams.

Highly acclaimed judges from around the world awardedpoints in three categories based 30% on artistry, 30% onformulation/technique, and 40% on dégustation (quality offlavor, taste). Training for months like tri-athletes, teams strivedfor perfect execution in all three areas with precision timing.

Team USA’s Sugar Showpiece stood a heart-stopping sevenfeet tall with swirling strands of amorphous blown sugar,resembling a highly polished glass sculpture with detailed imagesof frogs, flowers, faces, and floating bubbles. The extraordinaryChocolate Showpiece, also seven feet tall, was replete with colorfulrealistic butterflies, hummingbirds, and enchanting faces.


Seated Right – Jack and Maral Barsoumian from Amoretti

USA Entremet – White Chocolate Exotic Imagination

27

USA Entremet Glace – Imagination Yuzu-Raspberry

Jeong Sang Kyun – Korea

Competitions


Japanese Plated Dessert

Team China Entremet Glace

As a previous winner, Team USA Captain Laurent Branlardfelt the pressure of once again putting his skills to the test, “thistime around was certainly more nerve raking then my firstevent. As a gold medalist, people expect a lot. Additionally, asCaptain, there are managerial and logistical responsibilities thatcompound the day to day anxiety.”

When asked about Team USA’s inspiration for theirextraordinary showpieces, Laurent revealed that science fictionnovelist Jules Verne played a pivotal role, “with the theme of‘Imagination’ we all started to think about what people dreamabout? It quickly came to us that high on the list are flight andliving under the ocean. Since we all had read Vingt Mille LieuesSous Les Mers (20,000 Leagues Under the Seas) as kids, weconceptualized our showpieces with that novel in mind.”

Congratulations to the winning Team in Nashville World Pastry Team Championship 2008

GOLD MEDAL

Swiss Chalet Fine Foods and Felchlin Switzerland congratulate Team Branlard – Laurent Branlard, Dimitri Fayard and Stéphane Tréand – on winning the gold medal at the 2008 World Pastry Team Championship in Nashville.

Miami, Houston, New York, Los AngelesToll free: (800) 347 9477

Max Felchlin AGSchwyz/Switzerlandwww.felchlin.com


Competitions

However, Team USA’s decisive victory didn’t come withoutdrama. Early after the start of Day 1, the Belgium judge calledinto question a portion of Team USA’s pastillage. After a lengthydiscussion among the judging panel and organizers, Team USAwas given the green light to continue. To make matters worse,on Day 2, Team USA encountered a faulty oven. But, as trueprofessionals, the three chefs soldiered on and presented all theircreations in a timely fashion.

As is the case in many international pastry competitions,degustation (taste) proved to be the ultimate differentiator forTeam USA who bested the competition by a wide margin in thatcategory. Quick to give credit where credit is due, Captain Laurentacknowledged his team’s use of top of the line products. “I’mconfident that Amoretti’s superior flavorings and pastryingredients contributed to our team taking Gold.”

Amoretti, proud sponsor of the National and World PastryTeam Championships, are also leaders in manufacturing world-class pastry ingredients, supplying to renowned patisseries,chocolatiers, ice creameries, five-star hotels, restaurants, gourmetcoffee chains, Fortune 500 industrial bakeries, as well aspresidential & royal palaces throughout the world.

Next year the National Pastry Team Championship movesback to Arizona.

JapaneseEntremet

Glace

Laurent Barnlard – USA

USA Petit Gateaux

5231

- w

ww

.fbd

.be

dobla.comDOBLA BV, The Netherlands

Please check our site to find your local distributor: www.dobla.com

Recipe made by

Ramon Morató, Director of Aula Chocovic S.L. Ramon used

the Dobla Filter telescope dark.

INNOVATION IN CHOCOLATE

Dobla is exclusively imported by:

in2food, Inc, 1775 Breckinridge Parkway, Suite 600 Duluth, GA 30096

Visit the Dobla stand 19-23 october in Paris, France Booth number: 5A P156

WORLD PASTRY TEAM CHAMPIONSHIP

Associate member of:


Competitions

White Chocolate Exotic Imagination(Entremet) Courtesy of Team USA

Sable250g butter130g almond flour230g cake flour130g confectioner sugar70g feuilletine

1. Mix soft butter with confectioner sugar.

2. Add the cake flour and almond flour.

3. Slowly mix in the feuilletine.

4. Roll it out to 3mm.

5. Bake at 300ºF for 12 minutes.

Coconut Nougatine200g sugar4g nh pectin125g glucose200g butter200g shredded coconut

1. In saucepan melt butter and glucose.

2. Add the sugar and pectin.

3. Slowly mix in the coconut

4. Pour over sheet pan and bake at 350ºF for 12 minutes.

Coconut Lime Dacquoise95g almond flour95 shredded coconut155g confectioner sugar200g egg whites45g sugar5g lime zest

1. Make a French meringue with the egg whites and sugar to softpeak.

2. Add the lime zest and fold in the almond flour, confectionersugar and coconut.

3. Spread over sheet pan and bake at 350ºF for 9 minutes.

Raspberry Gelee500g raspberry puree100g sugar12g nh pectin40g lemon juice

1. Bring raspberry puree,sugar and pectin to 104ºC.2. Add the lemon juice.

Exotic Coulis600g exotic fruit puree35g sugar2g vanilla bean45g water8g gelatine

1. Bring to a boil the puree, sugar and vanilla bean.2. Add the bloomed gelatine.

Exotic Cremeux500g exotic fruit puree250g heavy cream155g sugar240g yolks6g gelatine30g water

1. Bring to a boil the puree and cream.2. Pour over the mixture yolks and sugar.3. Proceed to a créme anglaise.4. Add the bloomed gelatine.

White Chocolate Mousse170g water50g 0% milk powder170g yolks40g glucose450g milk5g vanilla bean300g yolks30g gelatine150g water1100g white chocolate1240 heavy cream

1. Pour the yolks in a mixing bowl.2. Bring water, 0% milk powder and glucose to a boil.3. Pour over the yolks and let it whip to ribbon stage.4. Make a créme anglaise with the milk, vanilla bean and yolks.5. Add the gelatine and pour over the white chocolate.6. Add the whipped cream to the white chocolate mixture.7. Slowly fold in the whipped yolks.

Caramel-Exotic Glacage720g sugar700g cream540g exotic puree90g cornstarch95g water30g gelatine150g water

1. Make a dry caramel using the sugar.2. Deglaze with the warm cream.3. Add the warm exotic puree.4. Mix the water with cornstarch and add it to the mix.5. Bring to a boil and add the bloomed gelatine.

Imagination Yuzu-Raspberry(Entremet Glace)Courtesy Team USA

Coconut Nougatine200g sugar4g NH Pectin125g glucose200g butter200g shredded coconut

1. In saucepan melt butter and glucose.2. Add the sugar and pectin.3. Slowly mix in the coconut.4. Pour over sheet pan and bake at 350ºF for 12 minutes.

Coconut Lime Dacquoise95g almond flour95g shredded cocut155g confectioner sugar200g egg whites45g sugar5g lime zest

1. Make a French meringue with the egg whites and sugar to soft peak.2. Add the lime zest and fold in the almond flour, confectioner sugar

and coconut.3. Spread over sheet pan and bake at 350ºF for 9 minutes.

Raspberry Coulis240g raspberry puree100g sugar15g trimoline20g litchi alcohol1g rose compound

1. Bring raspberry puree, sugar and trimoline to a boil.2. Add the litchi alcohol and rose compound.

Pistachio Parfait100g sugar35g water100g yolks80g pistachio puree350g heavy cream

1. Whip the yolks in a mixing bowl.2. Bring the sugar and water to 118ºC and pour over the yolks.3. Whip until I the mix reaches 50ºC.4. Add the pistachio and the whip cream.

Raspberry Sorbet220g water120g sugar45g atomized glucose5g sorbet stabilizer500g raspberry puree10g lemon juice

1. Boil together the water, sugar, atomized glucose and sorbet stabilizer.2. Let it mature for 2 hours.

3. Mix in the raspberry and lemon juice.4. Run thru the ice cream machine for 7 minutes.

Yuzu Ice Cream1150g milk420g cream50g trimoline90g 0% milk powder95g atomized glucose120g yolks375g sugar5g ice cream stabilizer5 grams monostearate400g yuza juice15g yuza zest

1. Bring to a boil the milk, cream, trimoline, 0% milk powder, atomizedglucose and yuzu zest.

2. Mix together the yolks with the sugar, ice cream stabilizer andmonostearate.

3. Proceed to a créme anglaise.4. Let it mature overnight.5. The next day strain out the yuzu zest and add the yuzu juice.6. Run thru the ice cream machine for 7 minutes.

Mango Glacage200g sugar100g water145g mango puree50g apricot puree17g cornstarch20g water6g gelatine30g water

1. Boil together the water, sugar, mango and apricot puree.2. Mix the water with the cornstarch and add it to the boiling syrup.3. Bring it to a boil.4. Add the bloomed gelatine.

Green Chocolate Spray300g white chocolate200g cocoa butter15g green chocolate coloring

1. Melt the white chocolate and cocoa butter.2. Add the green chocolate coloring.

33

Ben’s Lab

Publisher’s Note: Ben Roche is the pastry chef at MotoRestaurant in Chicago. Fascinated with science afterdiscovering Alka Seltzer “bombs” as a kid, Ben’s approach topastry is unconventional, to say the least. In addition to hispastry chef duties, chef Roche also runs Roche OriginalConcepts LLC, an organization focused on food design,product development, and creative consultation.


Welcome to Ben’s Lab, where science, food and fun come together to beanalyzed. Today, I am using a class IV CO2 gas laser to see what happenswhen I blast some food at upwards of 2,800 degreesºF. The results aredramatic and tasty. The intense aroma and flavor enhancement of vanillawhen vaporized is very powerful. By blasting it with such a high temperature,the solid (vanilla bean) turns directly into a gas and there is no burned orcharred notes.

Lab Notes:

• When dripping liquids into liquid nitrogen, avoid clumps of pelletsfreezing together by adjusting the flow of the separatory funnel to a slowsingle drip. A hand-held squeeze bottle can also be used if separatoryfunnel is unavailable.

• In this particular dish, I garnished a vanilla creme brulee with a warmblueberry sorbet and a crunchy “praline” of blueberries and lavender.Feel free to utilize any flavor combination desired.

Equipment Needed:BlowtorchSmall metal mixing bowl of sugarSmall angled spatulaRed wine (Bordeaux) glassCO2 class 4 laserSeparatory funnelMetal strainer1 quart containerInsulated container for liquid nitrogenLab ring standBeam dump (to catch laser beam)Safety gogglesVanilla beanLab forcepsRoot beer sorbet baseHeat stable crËme brulee custardMadiera wineIngredients/materials for garnish

Ingredients Needed:Vanilla beanRoot beer sorbet baseHeat stable créme brulee custardMadiera wineGarnish materials

35

1. 2.

1. Fill insulated dewar with liquidnitrogen and position separatoryfunnel above.

2. Fill separatory funnel with root beersorbet.

3. Drip slowly into dewar of liquidnitrogen.

4. Drops should freeze separately in theliquid nitrogen, not in clumps.

5. Strain out with metal strainer, transferto small metal container in freezer,allow to temper in freezer for at least1 hour before use.

6. Coat top of custard with sugar.

7. Brulee sugar with blowtorch, untilcaramelized.

8. Place caramelized custard on plate.

3.

4. 5. 6.

7. 8.


Ben’s Lab

9. Safely position CO2 laser to point

into beam disposal unit.

10. Position a vanilla bean to stand

upright in the line of the laser beam.

11. Using laser at half power, vaporize

vanilla bean, trapping smoke in glass.

12. Cover brulee custard with smoked

glass (for vanilla vapor infusion).

13. After 3-5 minutes, uncover glass

from brulee, pour madiera in glass

and add a spoonful of rootbeer

sorbet drops.

14. Place dollop of puree, cream, warm

custard, etc. next to brulee.

15. Garnish créme brulee custard with

accompaniment of choice (perhaps

something ‘oh-so-delicious’).

9. 10.

11. 12. 13.

14. 15.

and wrapped half way around the building. I tried to wait patiently,

but of course I was filled with excited anticipation of the feast that

awaited my eyes. I was not disappointed. The exquisitely presented

pastries and sweets were treasures indeed, and I knew I was in for a

treat as I watched the sales staff pack and artfully wrap my selection

with professionalism and care. Yes, I dropped a small fortune, but the

experience alone was worth it and I came out of the store grinning like

a child at Disneyworld.

As humans, we delight in our sensory experiences, and as bakers

and pastry chefs, we embrace these senses whole-heartedly. And while

the final test is certainly the taste, the first test we need to pass is most

definitely a visual one. Our challenge is to create something out of the

ordinary that deserves a second look... a second glance... a second

thought of, “That’s beautiful – I wonder what it tastes like?”

Most first-time customers rely solely on their eyes when purchasing,

so it makes perfect financial sense to invest in your presentation. I have

made it somewhat of a mission of mine to encourage bakers to honor

the beauty of their craft with a little extra decorative detail. It immediately

sets your breads apart from the competition and offers your customers

a unique product with individual flair. (And with flour prices at record

highs, the beauty of the bread makes the increased cost of a buying a

loaf a little easier to swallow!)

So, try working a little decorative dough into your schedule and

experiment with shapes, techniques, and packaging. Give your customers

the gift of a little extra beauty and care and who knows, maybe your

line will grow out the door and down the building, too!

For more information and ideas, please visit www.breadhitz.com.

n my last trip to Europe, I had the wonderful opportunity

to visit the famed pastry shop of Pierre Hermes. As I

approached, I saw that the line of people went out the doorO Publisher’s Note: Ciril Hitz is the Department Chair forthe International Baking and Pastry Institute at Johnson &Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island. He has beenrecognized both nationally and internationally with numerousawards and accomplishments. Ciril recently published twoDVD series: Bread Art and Better Bread. His upcoming book,Baking Artisan Bread, is due for released in October 2008.More information on Ciril and his work can be found on hisweb site: www.breadhitz.com.


Dressing upBread withDecorativeDough

Artisan Baker

39

Decorative Dead Dough Syrup

2.

1.

Ingredients Metric Pounds %Granulated Sugar 980g 2# 2.5 oz 100Water 950g 2# 1.44 oz 97Glucose 350g 12.34 oz 35

1. Boil water.

2. In a separate clear bowl or container, combine sugar andglucose.

3. Scale boiling water to desired weight.

4. Pour the boiling water into the sugar/glucose mixture andstir until all of the crystals have dissolved.

5. Store at room temperature for up to one week.

*This formula will be enough syrup for 31/2 batches of deaddough.

Method of Procedure for all Decorative Dead Doughs:

1. Combine the dry ingredients in a large bowl.

2. Add the syrup and mix together by hand with a plasticbowl scraper.

3. Add more syrup to achieve the desired consistency (similarto marzipan).

4. Finish working the dough on the table until it feels smoothwith no dry spots.

5. Cover with plastic wrap.

6. Can be used for up to three days.

7. Bake in a convection oven at 320ºF until somecaramelization color is achieved.

8. Dough will be soft when removed from oven but willharden upon cooling.

Ingredients Metric Pounds %Whole wheat flour 750g 1# 10.4 oz 75Light Buckwheat Flour 250g 8.81 oz 25Decorative Dough Syrup 640g 1# 6.56 oz 64

White Decorative Dead Dough

Ingredients Metric Pounds %White Rye Flour 750g 1# 10.4 oz 75Light Buckwheat Flour 250g 8.81 oz 25Decorative Dough Syrup 460g 1# 46Molasses 200g 7.05 oz 20

Brown Decorative Dead Dough

Ingredients Metric Pounds %White Rye Flour 650g 1# 1 oz 65Light Buckwheat Flour 250g 8.81 oz 25Dark Chili Powder 100g 31/2 10Decorative Dough Syrup 640g 1# 6.56 oz 64

Red Decorative Dead Dough

1. Prepare the syrup. See formula. Cool before scaling itinto the dough.

2. Mixing the dough by hand is the gentlest way of combingingredients without over-mixing them. It is okay to addmore syrup to attain the correct consistency.


Artisan Baker

5.

3. Once the dough comes together, finish the mixing procedureon the table. Add a little flour if the dough feels too sticky.Wrap the dough completely with plastic wrap to prevent anycrust from forming.

4. When silkscreening, it is best to use plain dough to achieve theideal image contrast. Sheet the dough to the desired thicknessand place the dough on a completely flat surface. Warmedcocoa paste works great for silkscreening since it does not settoo fast during the process.

5. After silkscreening the image, use a regular cookie cutter tocarefully cut out the printed disc, making sure not to smearthe image. Cut a small hole at the top of the disc using a straightpastry tip and apply a decorative edge around the disc. Bake.Once cooled, spray the disc with a food-grade shellac.

3. 4.

7.6. 8.6. To marbleize the dough, take the desired colors

and compress them together while rolling theminto a log. Once the desired thickness has beenachieved, give the log a twist.

7. Take the twisted dough roll and coil in a snail-likemanner, then compress it with your hand. Usinga rolling pin, roll out until the desired thicknessis achieved (1/4” to 3/16” for this project).

8. Dust a precut piece of marbleized dough withsome flour, then press the dough into a springerlemold of your choice. Carefully remove the doughfrom the mold and re-cut the piece to the desiredshape. Bake and cool. Spray with a food-gradeshellac.


Nubai Rose

Grand Gateaux

Publisher’s Note: Kirsten Tibballs is one ofAustralia’s most celebrated and internationallyrespected pastry chefs. Specialising in chocolateand patisserie, Kirsten is the AustralianAmbassador for Callebaut and Cacao BarryChocolate and she established the SavourChocolate and Pat i sser ie School inMelbourne in 2002. For more information visitwww.savourschool.com.au

IngredientsBoiron Raspberry PureeWhole raspberriesRaspberry LiquorRose WaterSao Thome Couverture 70%Dutch Cocoa Powder 22-24%Grenade Couverture 60%Star Fix Neutral Glaze

EquipmentDemarle Flexipan® Small and Large Cones(Ref 1083 & Ref 1103)Set of Round CuttersAcetate SheetSilicon PaperSilpat® MatDisposable Piping BagNo. 9 Plain Round Piping NozzleDepositorAngled Palette KnifeSieve8cm Diameter Round Cake BoardsStarch TrayStarch Mould

Vanilla bavaroise with a raspberry cream inserttopped with a raspberry and rose water sugarcrusted liquor finished on an almond dacquoise base.

This is one of my favourite shapes as it always looks elegant garnished in avariety of styles. I always enjoy this flavour combination and the texturalstructure is just as essential to me as the flavour.

2.1.

43

Almond Dacquoise155g Almond Meal200g Pure Icing Sugar50g Flour250g Egg Whites150g Caster Sugar50g Blanch almonds (roughly chopped)30g Pure Icing Sugar (for dusting)

1. Whisk egg whites to a soft peak and slowly add the castersugar.

2. Allow the sugar to dissolve then remove from the mixer andfold in the sifted dry ingredients.

3. Pipe onto prepared Silpat® mat.

4. Bake at 170ºC for 15 minutes or until golden brown.

Vanilla Bavaroise300ml Milk12g Gelatine100g Sugar4 Vanilla Beans6 Yolks600ml Semi Whipped Cream 35% butterfat

1. Make an anglaise by boiling the milk and vanilla, separatelymix the egg yolks and sugar together and pre-soak thegelatine.

2. Pour the boiled milk over the egg yolk mixture and whiskbefore placing the mixture back on the heat and stirringconstantly to bring it to 84ºC.

3. Strain the mixture and cool immediately to 35ºC beforefolding through the semi whipped cream.

Raspberry Cream100g Boiron Raspberry Puree30g Egg Yolks38g Eggs30g Castor Sugar38g Butter1g Gelatine Sheets100g Raspberries

1. Combine all the ingredients, except the butter and gelatine.

2. Bring to 85ºC stirring constantly, remove from the heat andthen add the pre soaked gelatine.

3. Sieve the mixture before adding butter.

Raspberry Liquor250g Sugar100g Water115g Raspberry Liquor 60%10g Rose Water100g Sao Thome 70% couverture (for dipping)

1. Prepare wheat starch in a wooden tray and heat it to 80ºC.2. Press into the starch with prepared shaped moulds and

continue to keep warm until needed.

3. Boil sugar and water to 116ºC.

4. Warm up a stainless steel bowl and pour the sugar mixtureonce it has reached temperature into the bowl then pour thealcohol into the warm saucepan, then the alcohol over thesugar.

5. Pour this mixture back into the saucepan and repeat theprocess back and forth three times.

6. Then pour it into the depositor and fill the starch moulds.

7. Cover the top of the deposited liquor with additional siftedstarch heated to 80ºC.

8. Leave for 1.5 hours then cover the starch tray with a flat trayand flip over and leave for at least another 1.5 hours.

Glaze240g Cream50g Water360g Sugar100g Dutch cocoa powder 22-24%20g Grenade 60% couverture11g Gelatine100g Star fix neutral glaze

1. Boil cream, sugar and water and then add the cocoa powderand star fix.

2. Boil again then remove from the heat and add pre-soakedgelatine then strain over the couverture.

3. Whisk until all the couverture is combined then use theglaze when it reaches 35ºC.

1. Prepare raspberry liquor according to recipe and pour themixture from the bowl to the saucepan three times to ensureit is thoroughly mixed without agitating it too much.

2. Deposit the raspberry liquor mixture into the prepared heatedstarch tray.


Grand Gateaux

3. Remove the sugar crusted liquor from the starch and brushthem to remove any excess starch.

4. Dip the sugar crusted liquor in crystallised Sao Thomecouverture to avoid it dissolving when inserted into the vanillabavaroise.

5. Pipe the dacquoise base into 5cm discs on a Silpat® mat thensprinkle the top with roughly chopped almonds and dust withicing sugar.

5.

7.6.

3. 4.

8.6. When the raspberry cream has cooled to 35-40ºC,

incorporate the butter in pieces and emulsify.

7. Place a piece of raspberry in the base of the small coneFlexipan® then pour the raspberry cream at on topand freeze before unmoulding.

8. Pour the cool prepared vanilla anglaise onto thesemi whipped cream and fold gently without overmixing.

45

10.9. 11.

13. 15.14.

12.

9. Pipe the vanilla bavaroise into the Flexipan® large cone andsmooth the mixture into the sides of the mould with a spoon toavoid air bubbles.

10. Place the frozen raspberry cream into the centre of the vanillabavaroise then pipe another thin layer of vanilla bavaroise on top.

11. Place the chocolate coated sugar crusted liquor into the next layerof vanilla bavaroise and cover with another layer of vanillabavaroise mixture.

12. Place the baked dacquoise onto the base and level it off with apalette knife then freeze the cones.

13. Crystallise white couverture and spread a thin layer on an acetatesheet. Cut rings to fit in layers on the cone to garnish. Cover thewhite couverture with a piece of silicone paper and another trayon top to keep rings flat.

14. Take the frozen cones and place on a rack and ladle with preparedglaze. Remove from rack and place on individual boards.

15. Take prepared white couverture rings and place in sequentialorder on top of the cones and garnish with gold leaf.


Chef in Focus

Returning to Asia to take on a ‘Mount Everest’ opportunity,executive pastry chef Jason Licker pumps up the volume in theworld’s biggest casino and takes Pastry & Baking North America

on a tour of the massive Venetian Macau.

By Campbell Ross WalkerPhotography The Venetian Visual Arts Team and Karlheinz Ritter.

Winning Bigin Macau


the demands of each of the Venetian’s outlets, everything fellinto place. “At the end of the day, it is still a pastry kitchen withthe keys to success being communication, organization andpatience. There are so many outlets and banquets going on atthe same time the only way to succeed is to establish a crystalclear line of communication so the entire team understandseach clients’ needs,” says Jason.

“Clear communication” with his team would have been abarrier for most young expat chefs but Jason is no newcomerto Asia. A veteran of the bustling Shangahi hotel scene, Jasonwas prepared for the challenges in Macau. “I know it soundsclichéd but everyone here speaks the international language of‘the kitchen’. In Shanghai, I learned a lot of Chinese phrases andadjusted my demeanor in order to get the most out of the team.A firm approach balanced with respect and a strong work ethicis highly effective in China. If you think as the “executive’ chefyou can rein over your kingdom, bark out orders and treateveryone poorly as they do in Europe – and to some extent inthe States – you might as well stay home. That’s not going to flyover here,” says Jason.

And “over here” is where the action is these days. It isexhausting and frustrating to look at Macau and try to describeit, because by the time you read this it will have changed. Thereare more cranes and construction projects on these three islandsthan anywhere else in the world.

The steady hum of building and industry carries on threeshifts a day, seven days a week. The flashes of the arc weldingon the unfinished towers, soon to become the new skyline,compete with the strobe lights and vertical acres of neon thatidentify their already completed neighbors.

the biggest casino in the world.Until you lay eyes on The Venetian Macau it’s difficult to

comprehend the enormity of the structure and the absolutelydaunting task of being its executive pastry chef.

As the second largest building in the world, The VenetianMacau can hold 90 Boeing 747 jumbo jets. The property boosts3,000 suites, 1,200,000 sq ft of convention space, 1,600,000 sq ftof retail, 550,000 sq ft of casino space – including 3,400 slotmachines and 800 gaming tables.

A renaissance Venice themed luxury destination, The VenetianMacau has been packed since its soft opening in July 2007. Withaverage daily crowds of 100,000 veracious gamblers and sightseers,this behemoth needs every available hand to service its 35 F&Boutlets. And, with Asia Pacific’s growing appreciation for tradition“European” pastry and desserts, executive pastry chef Jason Lickerfinds himself smack in the center of the world’s busiest pastrykitchen. Reports are he is exceeding management’s expectationshowever he’d be the first to admit there was a steep learning curve.

“The first month was tough. Considering it takes me 15 minutesjust to walk from my office to my morning meeting, my initialacclimation took a back seat to just trying to find my way around. Although I never questioned my decision to take on the job, therewere days I thought we definitely needed more staff,” says a veryfit chef Jason.

But once Jason got his bearings straight, adjusted his staff,sorted out just the right suppliers and started to better understand

f you’re going to travel half way around the world insearch of a culinary challenge, might as well aim high.Or, in the case of pastry pro Jason Licker, take aim atI

Chef in Focus

In fact, where Macau was once known as the Las Vegasof the East, Las Vegas will soon be known as the Macau ofthe West. It is that big! The Portuguese colonized the tinyMacau peninsula over 400 years ago. Today it is a SpecialAdministrative Region of the People’s Republic of China.

“In this day and age its commonplace to throw aroundphrases like historic, groundbreaking, and revolutionary,”said Sheldon G. Adelson, chairman and chief executiveofficer of Las Vegas Sands Corp., the parent company ofThe Venetian Macau. “But it is no overstatement to saythat the opening of The Venetian Macau represents amassive paradigm shift for Macau and the future of tourismdevelopment in Asia.”

Wow, that’s saying something from a guy who knows.With that in mind, consider that during this “historic”coming to market, Macau’s most recognizable propertytaps an American chef to guide their pastry and bakingfuture. Such an appointment speaks volumes to JasonLicker’s abilities and reputation.

At 32 years old, Chef Jason is young compared to otherculinary professionals holding down similar positions.And no, he wasn’t a pastry savant who picked up a whiskbefore he could walk. In actuality, Jason Licker got his startin pastry quite unexpectedly.


Chef in Focus

Born in New York, Jason grew up in a family of big eaters. Thekitchen was the focal point of the household but a culinaryeducation was the furthest thing from his mind. “I was in collegepursuing my BA in Secondary English Education when my motherwas diagnosed with cancer. The doctors put her on a special dietthat drastically reduced her allowed daily intake of sugar, sodiumand fat. That meant no more brownies and cookies which didnot sit well with my mom. One day, I got a basic recipe for muffins,substituted apple puree for butter, and the results weren’t bad.From that day on, dessert was my thing,” remembers Jason.

An avid Food Network viewer, Jason starting buying everyculinary magazine he could get his hands. After experimentingin the kitchen at home and in college, Jason sent out cover lettersto the top restaurants in New York City. As luck would have it,Stacie Pierce, pastry chef of Union Square Cafe, needed an extraset of hands. She liked Jason’s honest letter and thirst forknowledge and gave him a shot. “Union Square Cafe was andstill is regarded as one the best restaurants in New York City.It was my first time in a professional kitchen and Chef Stacieprovided me with an invaluable experience and trial by fire thatencouraged me to pursue my new passion,” say Jason. “Thenext step was a formal education and more training and onceI visited the French Culinary Institute I knew it was the placefor me to learn, immerse and develop the right skill set.”

While going to school, Jason worked at Jean-Georges as apastry cook. He then helped Charlie Palmer open Métrazur inGrand Central Station. At 22, Jason was ordering inventory,making menus, and managing staff. “Charlie told me that Iwould learn from my mistakes." Indeed, there were lots but

again, mentorship, a positive working environment and latitudeproved the best atmosphere in piquing creativity and passion.

After Métrazur, Jason seized an opportunity to work underanother great pastry chef in Miami when a FCI classmate alertedJason to an opening at The Shore Club with pastry chef KimO’Flaherty. “Chef Kim, a former Coupe De Monde competitor, is world class and the hotel is so dynamic with Nobu MiamiBeach as well as four other outlets. During my time in Miami,I was exposed to Nobu’s amazing Japanese fusion cuisine. Aftera few months on the job, Chef Kim left to pursue an incrediblecareer opportunity, leaving me in charge. At 24 years old, I wasexecutive pastry chef of The Shore Club. Talk about pressure.It was a crazy time and I learned a tremendous amount aboutpastry, people and life,” says Jason.

Two years in Miami flew by and Jason started to yearn forthe bright lights of Manhattan. On a weekend excursion to seehis parents, Jason interviewed for and was offered the executivepastry chef position at the Peninsula New York. Excited to returnhome, Jason accepted and spent the next three years honing hiscraft and adjusting his kitchen mentality towards volumeproduction. “Working at the Peninsula was great. It was exactlywhat I needed to prepare me for where I am today. Pressurepacked, never quiet, always something new to see and learn.Additionally, being in the City afforded me opportunities suchas participating in the New York Chocolate Show, Starchefs.comRising Chef Events as well as live demonstrations at Macy’sflagship store,” says Jason.

But, as often is the case in the world of culinary professionals,new challenges are always on the horizon and in 2004 Jasonstepped up and answered the call, opening a new chapter inhis life that lead him to the crazy, breakneck frontier of anawakening China.


Chef in Focus

With three years of New York City volume under his belt,Jason took on the culinary and cultural challenges of the WestinBund Center in Shanghai. Then executive chef Karlheinz Ritterhad confidence in Jason and worked closely with the new comerto elevate the properties’ cuisine to new heights.

Jason’s team was responsible for the hotel’s eight outlets, thedaily weddings and the extraordinary outside catering programs.With China in the midst of an economic awakening, conspicuousconsumption was the name of the game. Experiencing finedining at the Westin Bund was high on the list for many Chineseseeking status and international gastronomy, so it wasn’tuncommon for the property to enjoy 100% occupancy formonths at a time. Such a glut provided little time for days-off.Let alone much sleep.

“Sometimes I received the orders for a 1,000 person banquetthe day of the event. Restaurants were constantly booked solidand outside catering orders were like nothing I’d everexperienced. We did amazing work under intense pressure andI am very proud of the products that came out of that kitchen.In Shanghai, I made lifelong friends and can think of no greaterreward than experiencing firsthand China’s emergence ontothe world stage,” Jason remembers fondly.

Even for a high energy chef like Jason, eventually Shanghai’shectic lifestyle wore him out. He had given 2 years of his lifeand that was enough. Returning back to the States, Jason hookedup with his old friends at Nobu and landed a consulting gig inCalifornia. The more relaxing and manageable position was awelcomed change and his responsibilities included overseeingpastry production at San Diego, Las Vegas and Los Angeles.Allowed to work on expanding his creativity and exploring newfacets of pastry, the Nobu experience was indeed cerebral andenlightening, but, after a few months, Jason Licker longed forthe high anxiety of big volume. As fate would have it, he soon


Chef in Focus

received a call from an old friend and colleague, Chef KarlheinzRitter, who presented Jason with his “Mount Everest’ opportunity:run the pastry operations at The Venetian Macau. Jason accepted.Site and property unseen.

“Nope. I didn’t need to make a visit. It was exactly what I’dbeen preparing for. Biggest casino in the world? An incredibleamount of outlets? More banquets than you can shake a stick at?Bring it on,” said Jason.

With a penchant for large scale operations, one can’t help butwonder if continual immersion in such vastness has a detrimentalimpact on Jason’s sense of tradition and fundamentals? Are cornerscut and sacrifices made to “just get the food out? Absolutely not.

“That’s the beauty of the The Venetian Macau. From theowners to the GM, to the F&B Director down to me, we are allon the same page: quality first. It is so wonderful to know thatthe direction I want to take and the ingredients I require arewholeheartedly supported all the way up the chain of command.We don’t compromise. Sure, we can produce 4,000 plated dessertsin an afternoon but all of them will use the best ingredients,receive the same level of care and attention and taste exactly thesame,” says Jason.

“I love pastry because it offers limitless creativity. It’s acombination of flavors, textures, temperature and presentations.Pastry can reflect personality and emotion and encapsulates somuch more than just cooking. It’s a community. A team conceptthat embraces a common goal. Even when played on the largestfield in the world!”

“I know it sounds clichéd but everyonehere speaks the international language of‘the kitchen’. In Shanghai, I learned a lotof Chinese phrases and adjusted mydemeanor in order to get the most outof the team. A firm approach balancedwith respect and a strong work ethic ishighly effective in China.”


Chef in Focus

Ginger Cream with Blackberries

Ginger Cream1000g creamFresh ginger peeled, chopped.100g sugar17.5g softened gelatin sheets

1. Boil the cream, sugar and ginger and infuse till desiredtaste.

2. Warm the cream and add gelatin.3. Pour into a mold and freeze.4. Cut 7cm long and 2cm width and height.

Lace Tuile227g butter, soft255 oz sugar191 oz all purpose flour227g corn syrup5g vanilla extract

1. Mix together butter and sugar2. Add corn syrup and vanilla.3. Add flour and bake at 175ºC till golden brown.

Blackberry Foam400g cream400g blackberry puree200g simple syrupLemon to taste

Combine and place in a sifon gun and use two cartridges.

AssemblyChocolate GarnishesBlackberriesChopped WalnutsBlackberries Sauce

1. Smear the blackberry sauce across the plate.2. Position the ginger cream in the center.3. Place some blackberry foam on the right corner and

garnish with blackberry and chopped walnuts.4. Arrange garnishes.


Chocolate Love

Publisher’s Note: In the world of gourmet chocolatecreation, few can match the career and quality of NormanLove. As the former executive pastry chef for The Ritz-CarltonCompany, Norman Love understands the importance ofquality and presentation and his global brand of artisanchocolates can be found in innumerable retailers, restaurantsand hotels around the world. For more information on ChefNorman and his gourmet chocolates, please visit his website(www.normanloveconfections.com) or his retail salon in FortMyers, Florida.

All About The

Tools:Acrylic glass or plasticAirbrushBicycle, multi-wheel expandable cutterOffset spatulaParchment paperPlastic acetatePutty knifeStencil

Ingredients:Dark chocolateColored cocoa butter – brown, yellow and green

1.

2.1. Place stencil on top of the acetate and spray

completely with brown cocoa butter.

2. Quickly remove the stencil.

4.3.

5.

7. 8.

59

3. Apply second color – yellow/green – directly on top of stenciled polkadots. Cover evenly and completely. Allow the two colors to dry.

4. Apply dark chocolate.

5. Spread a thin layer of the dark chocolate couverture. Allow thechocolate to slightly solidify.

6. Open the bicycle to approximately one inch per wheel.

7. Drag wheels both horizontally and vertically across the chocolate slab.

8. Apply parchment paper on top of slab.

9. Sandwich and keep the chocolate perfectly flat byplacing an acrylic glass/plastic square, or a heavy flatobject, directly on top of the parchment paper for aminimum of two hours. This will allow the chocolateto completely crystallize.

10. Remove plastic acetate.

11. Gently separate individual plaquettes into small polkadotted squares.

Use to enrobe to pastry exterior of the pastry.

9. 10. 11.

6.


Chocolate Love

ALBERT USTER IMPORTS 1.800.231.8154 WWW.AUISWISS.COM

e x q u i s i t e c h o c o l a t e . e x c e l l e n t p r i c e .

WARM STRAWBERRY FOAM6 Tbsp (90 g) granulated sugar2 Tbsp (30 mL) water1 tsp (5 g) ALBEN3 Tbsp (45 mL) strawberry purée1 gelatin leaf, bloomed

Bring the sugar and water to a boil. Continue cooking until it reaches240ºF (120ºC). Meanwhile, whip the strawberry purée with the ALBENon medium speed with an electric mixer. As the sugar mixture is thickening,turn the mixer’s speed up to maximum. Pour the sugar syrup over theALBEN mixture while continuing to mix. Add the bloomed gelatin andwhen fully incorporated, reduce the speed to low for about 3 minutes.

2. 3.

1.

Wild Sweets

Publisher’s Note: Dominique and Cindy Duby are thechefs and owners of DC DUBY Wild Sweets®, a criticallyacclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which hasemerged as one of North America’s finest artisan chocolatiers.The couple also owns DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc.,a Vancouver-based international firm offering culinary trainingand consulting services to hotels and catering companiesworldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing servicessuch as product development, food styling, and photography.For more information,�visit www.dcduby.com


The general definition of foam is a substance that is formed by trapping

many gas bubbles in a liquid or solid. This process can be achieved

mechanically, but it can also be achieved through the incorporation of air

via another type of gasónitrous oxide (N2O) – using a siphon cream dispenser.

Foams are typically quite fragile and prone to deflation unless stabilized

by the addition of a substantial amount of sugar. As mentioned in Part One,

foaming through the use of typically freeze dried egg white powder

reconstituted with a liquid provides many possibilities. Note that the less

liquid used for re-hydration, the more stable the foam will be even without

any sugar added. Another method is to use a thickened, hot aromatic liquid

(i.e. xanthan) and pour it over the foamed, fresh egg whites along with

gelatin (as the emulsifier and stabilizer). This results in foams that can be

served hot or cold. The amount of gelatin, along with the density and

temperature of the liquid, yields foams that are thick like a mousse, fluid

like a cream, or liquid like a soup.

FOAMING – Part 2

4.

63

1. 2.

1.

ORANGE EMULSION1 Tbsp (15 mL) grapeseed oilzest of 1 orange1 oz (25 g) white chocolate, finely chopped1 Tbsp (15 g) butter5 Tbsp (75 mL) orange juice1/4 cup (50 g) granulated sugar1 gelatin leaf, bloomed

ALMOND GLASS3 Tbsp (45 g) corn syrup1/4 cup (25 g) almonds, coarsely chopped

Preheat the oven to 350ºF (180ºC). Line abaking tray with a silicon mat. Dip a brushin the syrup and paint any shape outline.Dust with some almonds and bake for about5 minutes in the preheated oven. Let it coolcompletely and store in an airtight container.

3. 4.

5. 6. 7.

2.

Warm the grapeseed oil in a saucepan overmedium heat. Remove from heat, add theorange zest and cover with plastic wrap. Letit infuse for 15 minutes.

Place the chocolate and butter in a container.Bring the orange juice and sugar to a boil.Add the bloomed gelatin, stir until dissolved,pour over the chocolate and butter. Strainthe infused oil into the chocolate mixtureand mix until well combined using a blender.


Wild Sweets

Creative Cakes

Publisher’s Note: Elisa Strauss is the owner of ConfettiCakes and specializes in handsculpted delicious works ofart. Elisa and her creations have appeared on numerousnational television shows and in the pages of countlessinternational publications. A frequent competitor on theFood Network, Elisa’s first book, The Confetti CakesCookbook, was released in Spring 2007 and is in its fourthprinting, and her second book entitled Confetti Cakes for Kidsis due out in November. For more information, please visitwww.confetticakes.com.


Sculpting the Chocolate Cake

1. Set the cake on a turntable. Use a serrated knife to trim the edges off yourblock of cake to the approximate width you want your ball to be at itswidest point.

2. Using a smaller serrated knife, carve away small pieces of cake at a timeto create a ball shape. Remember, go slowly. It’s like a haircut – once youcut it off it’s too late to glue it back on!

3. When the ball shape is complete, trim away the excess cake board to fitthe new shape – and you’re ready to crumb coat.

MonsterCake

Photography by Ben FinkCourtesy of Confetti Cakes for Kids

PreparationTechniques

67

1. Using a small strainer, dust a flat, clean surface with cornstarchto prevent the fondant from sticking.

2. Unwrap the fondant and knead it until it becomes soft, thenshape it into a round ball and flatten slightly.

3. Use a rolling pin to roll out the fondant. As you get started,turn the fondant a few times to make sure it’s even on all sidesand that it is not sticking to your surface. Roll it out so thesurface area is larger than the cake you need to cover and is

about 1/4 inch thick. As you are rolling it out, keep in mind thatyou need to cover the sides of the cake as well as the top surface.

4. While the fondant is still rolled out on the flat surface, run thefondant smoothers over it to even it out.

5. Pick up the fondant by rolling it gently onto a rolling pin,wiping off any excess cornstarch with a dry pastry brush as

you go. Once all the fondant is around the rolling pin, carefullyunroll it over the cake.

6. Starting on top of the cake, smooth the surface of the fondantwith your hands. Continue along the sides of the cake, gentlypressing the fondant to the cake. Do not press the fondant ontoitself – it will wrinkle. After the cake is completely covered, gentlypull the fondant away from the cake, then smooth it back down, like smoothing the pleats of a skirt. Run the fondant smoothersall over the cake to create a completely smooth surface.

7. When the cake is entirely covered, cut away any excess fondantwith a paring knife. First cut away the bulk of the excess, leavinga 1-inch border. Then use the side of your hand to create acrease where the fondant meets the side of the cake and thetable. Make a final cut around the bottom of the cake, leavinga straight edge.

Working with Fondant:

Little, Brown and CompanyHachette Book Group

www.confetticakes.com

Elisa Strauss,

the most sought-after cake designer in New York City, presents a whimsical collection of cakes, cookies, and cupcakes to delight children—whatever the occasion. Gorgeous photos and step-by-step instructions make creating 24 extraordinary projects easy and fun!

BE

N F

INK

Wildly imaginative kids’ cakes, cookies, and cupcakes—

from the founder of Confetti Cakes.


LemonMascarponeCheesecake

Plated Desserts

Publisher’s Note: David Ramirez is the executive pastrychef at the Rosen Shingle Creek in Orlando and Captain ofTeam USA headed to the 2009 Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie.For more information on David, visit www.daveramirez.net

I first created this dessert for the 2005 National Pastry Championship asour fruit petit gateaux. Today, building upon the fresh lemon with raspberryconcept, this dessert is one of our house specials here at Rosen ShingleCreek’s Italian restaurant Calla Bella. Our guests appreciate the innovativeuse of the ultimate Italian pastry cheese and are happy to see mascarponeused outside of the traditional tiramisu.

Fine Sugar Dough Crust Bottom

Butter 220 gr.

Powder sugar 80 gr.

Salt 2 gr.

Cake flour 200 gr.

Mix with paddle attachment butter,powdered sugar and salt, add cakeflour and mix until incorporated.Pipe mixture with round tip samesize or a bit smaller than LemonMadeline sponge.

Lemon Madeline

All purpose flour 80 gr.

Baking powder 2 gr.

Sugar 90 gr.

Salt Pinch

Lemon zest 2

Eggs 2

Butter soft 100 gr.

Whip eggs and sugar to ribbon stageand add soft butter in stages. Siftflour and baking powder and foldinto batter with salt and lemon zest.

Lemon Cream

Lemon juice fresh 70 gr.

Sugar 70 gr.

Yolks 70 gr.

Whole eggs 70 gr.

Butter 70 gr.

Cook fresh lemon juice, sugar, yolksand whole eggs until mixture thickensand comes to first boil remove fromheat. With hand emulsion blenderadd butter and begin to blend mixtureuntil smooth cool mixture down.Recommendation: Use a PVC wirewhip (non metallic) to cook lemoncream mixture.Lemon mascarpone

Granulated sugar 64 gr.

Egg yolk 82 gr.

Mascarpone 203 gr.

Gelatin 6 gr.

Water for gelatin 32 gr.

Heavy cream 203 gr.

Zest 4 lemon

Bloom gelatin with cold water, cooksugar, yolks, mascarpone and lemonzest bring to first boil remove fromheat and add softened gelatin anddissolve.

Raspberry filling

Raspberry puree 128 gr.

Pectin 2 gr.

Granulated sugar 18 gr.

Glucose syrup 15 gr.

Trimoline 7.5 gr.

Gelatin 1 gr.

Water for gelatin 10 gr.

Bloom gelatin. Mix sugar with pectinand separately bring to boil raspberrypuree glucose and trimoline. Add thesugar and pectin and bring to boilagain. Remove from heat and addbloomed gelatin and blend with handemulsion blender.

Neutral glaze

Water 200 gr.

Glucose 100 gr.

Sugar 200 gr.

Pectin 5gr.

Combine sugar andpectin in a bowl. Bringto boil water and glucoseand add sugar pectinmixture and bring toboil.

Exotic glaze

Neutral glaze from

previous recipe

500 gr.

Passion fruit puree 50 gr.

Mango puree 50 gr.

Glucose 100 gr.

Bring to boil all fouringredients and blendwith hand emulsionblender.

71

1. 3.2.

4.1. Piping the fine sugar on parchment paper

round piping tip and also stencil of circlepattern underneath. Bake at 340ºF to 12minutes.

2. Lemon Madeline baked in round moldwith cavity at 340 for 12 to 16 minutes.

3. Filling lemon Madeline with lemoncream in cavity, lemon Madeline stackedon top of fine baked sugar dough.

4. Mini half sphere mold of lemonmascarpone centers.

5. Cooking raspberry filling.

6. Partially fill medium mold with raspberryfilling and mini mascarpone half spheres.NOTE: Do not fill half spheres mold allthe way with raspberry filling but justenough to coat the mini mascarpone halfspheres so when the dessert is eaten athin layer of raspberry will complementthe lemon and not over power.

7. Push mini mascarpone into raspberryfilling creating thin layer of raspberryfilling.

8. Cooking mascarpone filling.

5. 6.6.

7. 8.8.


Plated Desserts

9. 10.

12. 13.

9. Strain through fine chinoise to remove lemon zest. Cool down.

10. Fold in whipped heavy cream to achieve lemon mascarponefilling.

11. Fill pastry bag with mascarpone filling.

12. Remove frozen mini mascarpone centers coated with a thinlayer of raspberry filling. Note: work fast as raspberry fillingwill set rapidly.

11.

14.

15. 16. 17.15. 16. 17.13. Push mini mascarpone center into larger flexi half sphere mold

filled with lemon mascarpone filling.

14. Use hand emulsion blender for exotic glaze. Critical step.

15. Glaze lemon mascarpone cream.

16. Place lemon mascarpone on top of filled lemon Madeline.

17. Plate dessert with raspberry sauce and chocolate tile décor. Yourchoice of garnish.

The only magazine in North America specifically published for dessert professionals.Each issue will provide:

Industry news, current events, competition results.

Recipes, demonstrations and the latest techniques.

Step by step instruction from our world-renownedpanel of Guest Contributors.

Truly regional coverage of hard working professionalswho share their experiences, stories and advice.

Complimentary online site for recipe archives andeducational videos.

Subscribe online atwww.PastryNA.com

introducing...Pastry&baking

N O R T H A M E R I C A

nature’s perfect food…made perfectly safe

Davidson’s Safest Choice

Pasteurized Shell Eggs

means exceptional flavor

and unsurpassed safety

from Salmonella.

®

For exquisite results,

nothing beats a shell egg.

800.410.7619

Pastry & Baking Volume 2 Issue 4 2008

Documents

Transcript of Pastry & Baking Volume 2 Issue 4 2008