FARMsuppers 153

pan-roasted or grilled marinated pork chop with sorghum and bourbonSorghum is an old-fashioned midwestern and Southern sweet syrup made by reducing the juice of sorghum down until it is a rich, dark molasses. It is a match made in flavor heaven when paired up with bourbon. I like to serve the chops with caramelized root vegetables and sautéed greens, but a bowl of mac and cheese would do fine as well. Try some heritage pork if you can. Berkshire pork would be awesome, but the “Big Black” that is popular in southern Indiana is wonderful as well. Some of these heirloom pigs don’t cook out white like industrial pork, so don’t be afraid of a touch of pink at the bone.

folks served: 8

8 14 oz. center-cut pork chops, with bone

1 c. sorghum1⁄2 c. bourbon1⁄2 c. vinegar1 medium onion, minced

2 T garlic, minced2 T ginger, mincedjuice of 4 limes3 T buttersalt and pepper to taste

Make the marinade by combining the sorghum, bourbon, vinegar, onion, garlic, ginger, and lime. Season with salt and pepper. Pour half of the marinade over the pork and allow to sit at least 2–3 hours. Remove and pat dry. Brush with a little olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Reserve leftover marinade. Sear in a hot pan until caramelized. Place pan in a hot oven for 10–15 minutes. Remove and test cooking. Thermometer should read 145° at thickest point toward the bone. Allow meat to rest on a plate in a warm area and deglaze pan with all the remaining marinade. Reduce and finish until rich and slightly syrupy. Add butter and swirl in. Season to taste with salt and pepper and spoon over the chops.

squirrel—The Beverly Hillbillies’ favorite. Fry them up in little “popcorn” crisps, braise the meat with tomato sauce, and serve over pasta.

Turtle—“Tastes like chicken!” Many folks relate the flavor of wild things to yardbirds, but in this case it is true. Fried snapping turtle is one of my Proustian madeleines. Memories of fishing with Grampa are even sweeter.

snake—Rattlesnake is the “puffer fish” of the reptile kingdom. Try it fried, mixed with baked beans or chili. Cook in a stew or curry and serve with rice.

groundhog—Young ones are tender and mild in flavor, but older ones should be soaked in milk or brined. All groundhogs should have their musky glands removed from the small of the back and inner thighs.

grouse—Young grouse is the most coveted of all game. A delicate meat, the grouse can be larded or barded and basted in fat (think bacon, thyme, and garlic) when roasting to prevent drying. Grouse is served rare. I like to cook it on the bone and save the carcass for the sauce or for a rich game broth.

pheasant—A young bird is best, as it can be roasted or broiled without hanging first. If young, you can use any recipe calling for chicken. If the bird is older, a 3-day hanging period is recommended as well as barding. Braising or cooking with moist heat is best for older birds. The drumsticks are very fibrous, like a smaller version of a turkey, so plan on getting your best eating from the breasts and thighs.

venison—Venison can refer to any antlered animal. If it is a young deer, it may need larding to stay moist when cooking. The meat takes marinades well and can be cooked as you would cook beef. Overcooking often brings out the livery flavors, so I like most tender muscles cooked rare to medium-rare and long cook the tougher portions into stews or use for pâtés and meat pies.