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HOME ECONOMIC

NEEDLEWORK PROCESSES

G8-9 (HAND OUT)

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©2020 Ms Chisulo

INTRODUCTION Fasteners are means of closing up an opening to retain the original shape and fit the article. They can be functional or decorative, or both decorative fasters should be conspicuous. Examples

Buttons and button holes

Hooks and worked bars

Tie tapes

Press studs

Tapes and ribbons

zips Choice of fastenings depend on

type of garment and use

type of fabric and its weight

style

type of opening Rules to observe when fixing fastenings

should be sewn on double fabric

should be sufficient in numbers so that the opening is closed

should be sewn directly opposite each other so that the opening will flat when fastened

should be evenly spaced

fasteners should be loose fitting if the garment is tight fitting

sufficient space should be allowed between the button and overlap for thick fabrics. Zip fasteners

They are categorized as both opening and fasteners.

They are firm and neat.

Zips can be inserted either on seams or slit Points to consider when buying a zip

test to see if the zip glides easily and smoothly

choose a suitable length for the opening desired

the texture of the zip must match that of the fabric

tape of the zip must match the fabric Methods of fixing zip: There are three methods,

1. concealed method 2. semi-concealed method 3. conspicuous method

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1. Concealed method This is used where there is a seam and is ideal for center backs and center fronts and side openings of dresses skirts, shorts and trousers. METHOD 1. Prepare and stitch the open seam as far as the base of the opening, which should be the

length of the zip teeth from the fitting line. 2. Press the seam open. 3. Open the zip and place the right side of the zip on the wrong side of the seam. 4. Pin and tuck top to bottom on the under lap. 5. Close the zip. 6. Fold over the overlap side of the seam allowance over the zip ensuring that the zip is

completely covered. Pin and tuck from the top to the back of the zip. 7. Remove pins 8. Beginning from the overlap side of the opening machine from the top to the base of the

zip. 9. Leave the needle inserted and turn the corner, and machine across the base of the zip

making sure that the base is reinforced. 10. Turn the corner and machine close to the edge of the underlap to the top of the zip.

2. THE SEMI CONCEALED METHOD It is ideal for the center front, center back and side openings of dresses and blouses. And also center back opening on skirts, jackets and coats. METHOD 1. Prepare and stitch the opening seam as far as the base. 2. Neaten the raw edges of the opening. 3. Press the seam open. 4. Open the zip and place the right side of the zip on to the wrong side of the opening. 5. Pin and tuck the zip on both sides of the opening away from the edge of the seam.

3. THE CONSPICUOUS METHOD.

In this method the zip is not covered. It forms part of the decorations. The zip is mainly fixed on a slit where there is no seam. So ideal for jackets, bags and shoes.

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BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLES

These are normally fixed when the garment is completed and button holes are normally made before the button holes are attached.

There are two types of button holes. 1. Worked button holes. 2. Bound button holes.

The most commonly used are the worked button holes because they are stronger.

They can either be horizontal or vertical depending on the direction and strain in wear. HORIZONTAL BUTTON HOLES

Made in a horizontal direction when there is a strain in that direction.

Usually common on closely fitting bands such as cuffs, dress bodices, and waist bands.

VERTICAL BUTTON HOLES

These are made in a vertical direction normally they will be found on loosely fitting garments, such as shirts and blouses.

POSITION AND SIZE

The length of a button hole should equal the width of the button plus 3mm to allow the button to slip in and out easily.

The space between the edge of an opening and the button holes should be at least half the width of the button so that the button does not project beyond the edge when fastened.

Buttons should be evenly spaced when a number of button holes are to be made horizontal, two lines of tucking to mark the length of the button holes will ensure that they are exactly in line.

WORKED BUTTON HOLES

Made on the overlap section of the garment in line with the buttons on the overlap.

They are so made that when fastened the buttons rest on the center or center back line and centrally on all other openings.

Made by cutting a slit in double material and then working button holes’ stitch.

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They are three types of worked button holes 1. Button holes with one round and one square end. 2. Button holes with two square ends. 3. Button holes with two-rounded ends.

BUTTON HOLES WITH ONE ROUND AND ONE SQUARE END

These are used where there is strain. at the button on one end of the buttonhole e.g on cuffs and waists of skirts. trousers and shorts.

The round end is nearest the edge of the opening to take the strain off the button.

Used on narrow facings of SHIRTS and whenever there is likely to be little strain on either end.

This is mainly in blouses and skirts that are loose fitting.

The button hole is worked on the vertical of the fabric. BUTTON HOLES WITH TWO SQUARE ENDS

These are cut in a vertical direction where there is no strain on the button hole.

The button will remain in the center of the button hole when fastened and is commonly sewn on loosely fitting garments such as shirts and shirt blouses.

BUTTONHOLES WITH TWO ROUNDED ENDS

These are used when there IS strain on both ends of the buttonholes.

They are used for working slots for ribbons or elastic.

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METHODS 1. Mark position and length of the buttonhole and work two rows of stitches.

2. Snip carefully through the two layers and cut a slit the exact length of the mark along a straight

thread. 3. Work buttonhole stitches from left to right starting at the lower inside corner of slit.

4. Taking the needle down the slit and up into the fabric work. buttonhole stitches to the end of the

slit. Work an odd number of stitches at the slit. Work an odd. number of new stitches at the rounded end, usually 5 0nd 7.

5. Work buttonhole stitches on the upper side.

6. Pass the needle down through the knot of the first stitch worked, and bring it out in level with

the lost stitch. This holds the end of slit together. 7. Work three stitches across the width of the stitching. Work buttonhole stitch across these so that

first and last stitches are in line with previous stitching to give a square finish.

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BOUND BUTTONHOLES

These are not as strong as the worked buttonholes.

They are mainly used on coats and suits with large buttons and those that are intended to be dry-cleaned rather than washed.

These buttonholes can either be bound with self or with a contrasting color of fabric. They serve as a decoration

METHOD 1. Mark the position and length of the buttonhole on the right side of the fabric. 2. Cut a straight strip off the fabric. long enough to cover all the buttonholes. The strip must be cut

on the grain of the fabric or on the bias. The strip is laid with its side facing the right side of the garment and is tucked in position. It is held with two rows of tacking to correspond to the width of the button.

3. Turn the work to the wrong side stitch all round each buttonhole.

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4. Cut the center of the buttonhole to within 1mm and clip into the corners. 5. Cut the strip half-way between the buttonholes. 6. Turn the strip through onto the wrong side of the fabric.

7. Wrap over the binding with the edges off the buttonholes towards the center and pull the ends

into 0 small inverted pleat.

8. Hold the pleat in position with two stitches at either end and tack all-round the buttonhole.

Press. Working from the right side. hold the binding in place by small running stitches along the seam. The stitches should not show.

9. Hold the edges of the buttonhole together with diagonal tacking. Trim back the side edges of the

strip to 1cm beyond the buttonholes. Turn the facing back onto the buttonhole. Pin it firmly at intervals down the whole length and tack round each buttonhole from the front.

10. The finished buttonhole as it should be from the R5.

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BUTTONS

Buttons like other fasteners are mainly used for closing the opening and also for decoration.

Should be chosen according to the effect desired. For decoration. choose fancy shapes and contrasting colors

The decorative effects come out mostly on children clothes. which have fancy shapes like birds. teddy bears. etc.

Buttons come in many sizes. colors and materials:

Some of the materials are metal. bone. wood. rubber. plastic. leather and linen.

The size of 0 button depends mainly on the size of the hole and the type of the garment.

Buttons are either flat or come with a shank.

The purpose of a shank is to make 0 space between the material and the button to allow for the thickness of the overlap when the button is fastened.

Flat buttons are always sewn on so that a shank is formed with thread.

Buttons are placed centrally on the CF. or CB. lines and on all other openings

Sufficient buttons should be spaced equally to ensure that the opening is flat

METHOD

Mark the position of the button. This is done by closing the opening with pins and putting pins through each buttonhole using a strong thread to attach buttons so that they will take up the constant strain where they go through.

Visible holes on the button must be in line with the buttonhole

Fasten the thread with a few back stitches. Work five or six upright Stitches through the buttonholes

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leaving 0.3 cm of thread each time between fabric and button to form shank.0n thick fabrics

longer shank to accommodate thickness of buttonhole is necessary.

When a button has a shank on the underside. allow for a further thread shank as necessary.

Before taking the needle through to the wrong side for the lost time firmly wind thread several times round the shank.

On thick fabrics. when a long shank is necessary. this should be loop/stitched.

Take the thread through to the wrong side and loop-stitch a bar to neaten the stitches formed by sewing on the button.

Fasten off securely. Worked loops Buttons and loops must be used for faced Openings

Take the thread through to the wrong side and loop-stitch a bar to neaten the stitches formed by

sewing on the button fasten off securely.

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WORKED LOOPS

Buttons and loops must be used for faced Openings. METHOD

The opening is finished and the buttons sewn in position 1. Close the opening and mark the position of the loops with a pin. 2. Pin and tack the edge of the article onto 0 stuff paper for support while working the loop 3. Put a pin in the paper half the width of the button away from the edge of the article and

between the pins which mark the width of the loop. 4. Slip the needle through the double material and bring it out at one pin. Return the needle to the

material at the second pin leaving a loop which would pass under the head of the pin on the paper.

5. Pass the needle along the fold and bring it out of the first pin. 6. Continue making loops in this way until enough strands have been formed to give the required

thickness.

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7. Loop-stitch the strands together closely, working from the left to right, With the right side of the

work uppermost. 8. The loop should be very firm when finished.

PRESS STUDS

These are used as fasteners. wherever there is no strain, on all types of clothing.

They need careful handling during laundering to prevent them from bending or breaking.

They form a quick method of fastening:

A stud consists of two parts the knob and the cap.

The knob is the half with the raised surface and it is sewn on the wrong side of the overlap;

while the cap is the half with the hollow in the center and is sewn on the right side of the underlap,

Press studs are sewn with buttonhole stitches. HOW TO ATTACH

1. Mark the position for the studs on the wrong side of the overlap, spacing them evenly. . 2. Hold the knobbed half in place 3 mm from the edge of the overlap or in the Centre of the hem or

facing. 3. Sew on with over-sewing or buttonhole stitches into each hole. 4. Fix all the studs on the overlap

FIXING THE SOCKET

1. Lap the opening., 2. Press each stud down onto the underlap so that an impression is left 3. Place underlap and stitch into each hole with over-sewing or buttonhole stitches.

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HOOKS AND EYES METHOD

This is a strong method of fastening and can be used on any type of opening as follows: 1. The hook is fixed on the wrong side of the overlap. 2 mm from the edge 2. The eye is sewn in the same way on the underside of the opening, opposite the hook, but

projecting slightly beyond the edge so that the hook can slip over easily. 3. Stitch either side of the eye securely. just inside the edge of the material 4. The form of eye is used when the edges just meet.

ARRANGING FULLNESS

Disposal of fullness is the arrangement of the excess material in the various areas so that the completed garment has the desired shape and style.

Fullness is disposed of in order to: a) Provide the desired style b) Give the garment the desired shape. c) Give a good fit.

The methods used in disposing fullness are:

i. Dart ii. Pleats (knife. box and inverted) iii. Tucks iv. Gathers v. Easing

vi. Smocking vii. Shirring

viii. Elastic Choice of the method depends on:

a) Ttype of garment. b) Type of material c) The position.

Darts

Used to shape garments so that they fit the curves of the body

Also used to reduce fullness where it is not needed

Worked on the Wrong side (W.S.) of the work and are therefore inconspicuous.

There is no extra material needed for darts. Darts set best if they are not more than 1 inch (25 centimeters) at the best.

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Several small darts set better than one large one. Darts are worked on various parts of the garments e.g. the back. neck. Shoulder. waist. bodice and shirt bust and the under arm.

The stitching of a dart tapers to nothing. It tapers from the wider port of the figure. A dart is made by making a fold and stitching it until it topers.

Methods of making a dart

1. Fold material right side (R.S.) facing and the pattern line of the dart are together. 2. Pin and hick from the wider part to the tapering. 3. Remove pins and machine from the wide end toward tapering-off-to nothing. 4. Tie off the ends of the threads; or weave the threads through two or three stitches; or stitch

backwards two or three stitches. Remove tacking and press the dart towards Centre back (C.B.) or Centre front (C.P.) to ensure smooth, straight stitching by following the marking lines property. If the material is too thick to lie flat, cut along the fold to within 2.5cm of the point and open the turnings, then follow the instruction for pressing darts.

TWO POINTED DARTS

Two pointed darts are useful on garments with no waist seam.

These darts should be made to lie flat by snipping them at the Centre.

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QUALITY OF A WEII-TAPERED DART

1. It should taper gradually to 0 point. 2. It should be firmly secured at the end. 2. Darts should be of the correct length and width. 3. Darts should be of the correct length and width 4. The stitching line should be straight. 5. Darts should be pressed in the right direction. For example, all neck. waist and shoulder darts

should be pressed towards the Centre front or Centre back. 6. The underarm darts of the bodice are pressed downwards the waistline.

TUCKS Their purpose and usage:

1. Made on double thickness of material. 2. Used mainly for decoration. 3. They vary in width depending on the effect desired. 4. Very narrow tucks are called pin tucks.

5. Tucks may serve as a style feature, e.g. the tucks which are taken throughout the length or the

breadth of a dress bodice. 6. Tucks may be functional or decorative. 7. Tucks are used on children's garments. where they serve functional and decorative purposes.

When the child grows bigger they are released to give room and take extra length in children's clothes.

8. The tucks are also used on blouses. nightdresses. pregnant mother's wear etc. 9. Tucks should be well arranged and accurately stitched in order to give the desired effect.

Method of making tucks

1. Using a maker. fold and measure. pin and tack the tuck. It is important to make and use it for accuracy.

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2. Remove the pins and machine or use running stitches along the fitting line. 3. The stitching of a tuck is done parallel to the edge of the fold 4. Remove the tacks and press. 5. Pin tucks can be arranged in groups. 6. They should face the same direction.

PLEATS Method of making pleats

1. Pleats ore mode by folding the material in three layers. 2. To make one pleat. the fabric required should be three times the finished width of the pleat. For

example, for o 3cm-wide pleat, the fabric required will be 9 cm wide. 3. Pleats can be made close to one another or at intervals depending on the style or the effect

desired. 4. Pleats can be permanently pressed or left to hang free. 5. They can also be stitched way down the length to keep in position, but it is not necessary unless

they introduce a style feature. 6. Pleats are worked on the right side of the fabric. 7. Pleats are both decorative and functional. 8. A pleat is held in position by the bond or seam in which the pleats are fixed and after tacking is

removed. it swings from the seam. 9. Pleats are best done on medium-weight fabrics 10. Pleats are used on tailored skirts dress skirts, shorts and trousers thus giving ample fullness in

wear. They are also used on bodices of dresses blouses and shirts. They do not provide extra fullness but make an attractive style feature, e.g. center back. pleat on blouses/shirt.

TYPES OF PLEATS

Knife pleats These pleats lie in one direction and are pressed flat along the grains of the fabric.

Can be made in groups if preferred.

The width of the pleat may be as narrow as 1 cm or up to 5 cm in width.

METHOD OF WORKING A KNIFE PLEAT

Mark the position of pleats by the marking along the full length of the pleat. Fold the pleat (e.g. 3,4 lies on 7, 8) and pin in position.

Continue this way to get the required number of pleats. Press or stitch them part of the length as illustrated.

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BOX PLEAT

A box pleat is made up of two ' Knife pleats turned away from each other so that the folded ends meet at the back.

The folds of the pleats wrong side.

Method of making box pleats:

1. On either side of “d” mark three width. 2. Make a folding along ‘’ a’’ and along “g” to form two knife pleats that meet on “d” at the W5. 3. Pin and tack on box pleat along its length or across the top.

4. Press to make it lie flat.

Inverted pleats

1. Inverted pleats are made by facing the folds of two knife pleats towards each other or to meet on the right side.

2. Fold at ubu and ufu towards ud” to get two knife pleats which are then pressed towards the

Centre of pleat U e".

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3. Pin and tack in position. A part of the pleat can be stitched lengthwise to hold it position.

EASING

Easing means to arrange a slight amount of fullness so that it does not gather or shows where the fullness is set in.

Easing is done in curved areas, e.g. sleeves, curved seams and hems.

The area to be eased is marked on patterns.

Easing is done by working fine running stitches or by machine tacking on material.

The lower thread (bobbing thread) is pulled to draw up fullness.

The pulled fabric is stroked along the running/machine stitches gently till all the fold disappears, then permanent stitches are worked.

Press the easing to smoothen and flatten the fabric. No gather, no matter how small, should appear.

SMOCKING

Smocking is a decorative method of controlling fullness.

The width required is four times the finished width of the smocking, although the amount required may vary with depth of the fold and the type of fabric.

Smocking gives a good effect when worked on a light fabric

When the tacking threads are drawn up, they should be tightly packed.

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Methods of smocking

The rows of thread are worked parallel to each other. The tacking is done evenly and equal in width.

When tacked, they are pulled (drown lightly). The threads are tied to one end and held with a pin to smock a firm embroidery.

Twisted embroidery thread or strands of cotton _ thread in contrasting, complimenting or matching thread. is used.

Embroidery threads are available in cotton, silk and synthetic, and can. chosen to suit the fabric.

When all the rows have been stitched, draw up the threat in pairs.

When all the drawing up is complete, tie off the loose threads

NOTE Gathering threads must not be removed until smocking has been completed.

ELASTIC

1. Elastic is commonly used in children's garments, underwear, night dresses and sports clothes etc. 2. Use of elastic is one of the quick effective methods of controlling fullness. 3. Commonly used in waists of skirts, underwear, shorts, children’s clothes, trousers, pajamas,

nights and jogging suits. 4. Elastic can be used to create style. Use a good quality. 5. The elastic should be in an even size casing in order to make it lie flat. 6. It should be well-joined to prevent disjoining. 7. Elastic comes in different sizes and strength; therefore, use the appropriate one. 8. When used, the garments are loosely fitted without an opening.

GATHERING One of the most important and easy methods of arranging fullness is gathering. Uses of gathering

1. It is suitable for soft and fine fabrics. 2. It may be used for skirts, sleeves, frills and fullness set into yolks, midriff, etc.

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3. It allows up to twice the width of material for gathering as required for finished width. 4. Too much may produce bulkiness even where the material is fine. Too much material will not be

effective. 5. When gathers are worked they must be set into titled portion of garments. 6. Two rows of gathering should be worked, one on the stitching line and the other one close to the

edge of the turning. This “sets” the gathers and makes neatening of the row edge easier and more reliable.

7. Long lengths of gathers are best worked in several short sections to facilitate pulling up without any danger of breaking threads.

8. When a gauged or rucked effect is required, several rows of gathers are worked below the stitching line and all pulled up together to the required scan.

How to work

1. Work on the RS. of the garment. 2. Make two rows of running stitches 3mm below and above the fitting line.

3. Pull two threads gently, distributing gathers as you pull until you get the required size. 4. Twist the threads and hold with pins. 5. Distribute the gathers evenly along the whole length.

Loosen the needle stitch length tension slightly to make it easier to pull the bobbin thread. Long-distance gathering

Together, divide the length into equal parts with pins then tack with thread.

This prevents the thread from breaking when you pull up the gathering.

If they break, you only have a small portion to repeat

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