P12-17 Backgammon TableML - getwoodworking.com · 12 The Woodworker Winter 2009 PROJECT I...

The Woodworker Winter 200912 www.getwoodworking.com

PROJECT I Backgammon table

This commission was placed by a customer who knew exactly what he wanted in appearance, dimensions, functionality and style; a backgammon table on folding legs with a light coloured, deep frame, attractive mitre joints… and decent-sized chequers!

Gambling queenBY DUNCAN ROSE

This tournament-sized backgammon table is made with folding legs, in the same style as the card tables used on

the QE2, the famous old ocean liner. Tournament backgammon is played using large chequers, typically between 38 and 51mm in diameter. When the playing surface is scaled up to match these, you fi nd you are playing on a large table area. These days the chequers are usually made from plastic, but wooden pieces turned from ebony and satinwood are much more elegant and pleasant to use.

Design featuresThe playing boards are recessed within the frame, and the storage tray that holds the dice and chequers is concealed within the central bar. The tray lid slides to one side to open. This gives both players equal access to the contents. The slide-on lid tray positively locates in the open and closed positions using ball catches. External catches and hinges are avoided to prevent dice catching them in play. When the lid is fi tted it sits nearly fl ush to the tray sides, giving a simple and clean appearance.

Finish all the frame mitre faces using the table router

The tray sides, ends and dividers are jointed with size 00 biscuits

Attach a pair of spacer blocks to fi t against the tray ends

Check that the pieces are of equal length, with tightly fi tting joints

Cut a matching pair of mortises in each mitre face

Bore recessed clearance holes so you can fi x the tray to the frame

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Dry-assemble the frame using band and sash cramps

Cut the two tray recesses to fi nish 12mm below the frame surface

Mark the positions of the tray ends and dividers on the tray sides

Make the tray lid from a resawn plank of 32mm maple

Cut the slots for the recessed brass strips on the router

Attach the two brass strips to the tray lid with brass screws

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cut the mitres, leaving each slightly over length. Then I fi nished the mitre faces using the table router, photo 1. Check that all the frame pieces are of equal length and that the joints are visibly tight, photo 2.

A pair of 9mm thick plywood fl oating tenons provides strength for each of the mitre joints. Mark and cut each mitre with matching pairs of mortises, photo 3. Make the plywood tenons 70mm square. Dry-assemble the frame using band and sash cramps, checking the alignment carefully, photo 4.

Grooves and guidesBefore glue-up, run two stopped grooves for the guides of the tray lid. Make the grooves 90mm long, 4mm wide and 4mm deep. I cut the grooves with a 4mm slotting cutter. Also cut the two tray recesses, 90mm long and 4mm deep, fi nishing 12mm below the frame surface, photo 5. Cut and glue

determines the overall dimensions. The frame height is dictated by the need for a 30mm gap between board and frame surfaces to keep the dice in the play area when rolled.

Square frameStart the backgammon table by making the mitre jointed frame. Dimension the four frame pieces and mitre the ends; I rough-

Leather shaker cups and spare chequers are housed under the table.

Table sizeThe 49mm diameter chequers determine the dimensions of the playing board. The triangular board points accommodate six chequers in line, plus a 90mm deep central area. A generous 90mm wide frame surrounds the playing boards. This

All dimensions are in millimetresPart Qty L W TFrame sides 4 870 90 41Frame tenons 8 70 70 9 plyFrame trims 4 858 20 12Tray base 1 740 68 10Tray end dividers 4 52 52 10Tray lid 1 689 90 12Tray lid guides 2 90 7 4Tray sides 2 740 52 19Tray spacers 2 52 23 23Legs 4 700 29 29Leg stops 4 29 20 12Playing board substrates 2 708 318 9 plyChequer holder body 1 130 68 20Chequer holder clamp 1 80 38 2Shaker cup catch 2 130 30 6Chequers (ebony) 16 49 diameter 19.5Chequers (satinwood) 16 49 diameter 19.5You will also need a quantity of maple, mahogany and rosewood veneers, four Brusso type BC263 ball catches, some 19 x 2mm brass strip and four leg hinges

BACKGAMMON TABLE CUTTING LIST

Use the lid and brass strips to work out the ball catch positions

Rebate the frame underside to housethe two playing boards

Cut a taper on each leg using a simple jig on the table saw

The leg hinges and stays were taken from an old card table

Each leg is held in the closed position by a simple friction stop block

Cut and test-fi t the two plywood playing board substrates…

…and then mark the extent of the playing areas on them

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Leg

Plan

Front elevation

View of underside

Frame side

Frame tenon

Frame trim

Tray base Leg stop

Tray lid

Spare checkerholder

Shaker cupcatch

Playing boardsubstrate

Leg hinges

the two lid guides to the frame. Assemble the frame using glue and cramps. Check that the frame is square and leave it to dry.

Making the trayFirst make the two tray sides. The dimensions are a 52mm x 19mm section, with a 34mm x 11mm rebate. Then make the tray ends and dividers. With the tray sides resting on the frame, mark the positions of the tray ends and dividers, photo 6. The tray ends are positioned to fi t between the tray recesses, less 2mm at each end to allow for frame movement.

Cut fi nger recesses in the two dividers. These make it much easier to lift the chequers from the tray. The tray ends and dividers are jointed to the sides using 00 size biscuits. The biscuit slots had to be cut off-centre to avoid cutting through the upper edge. With all the pieces cut, the assembly is glued and cramped, photo 7.

Once dry, trim the upper portion of the sides so the tray fi ts between the recesses. Make and attach a pair of spacer blocks to fi t against the tray ends, photo 8. Next, make the tray base and fi x it in position.

To screw the tray to the frame I bored recessed and oversized clearance holes at the ends of the tray, photo 9. This allows the tray to fl oat independent of any frame movement. Fix the tray to the frame using screws and penny washers.

Making the tray lidI used a plank of 32mm maple for the tray lid, resawn to thickness on the bandsaw, photo 10. Fabricate the lid to be 12mm thick and about 0.5mm shorter than the inner frame distance. Cut a groove in each end of the lid, so it easily slides onto the tray lid guides, using the table router and slot cutter.

The lid locates in the open and closed position using four ball catches fi tted into the tray sides. To prevent the ball wearing the underside of the lid, I recessed two lengths of thin brass strip into the lid. I cut the slots (19mm wide, 2mm deep) using a matching cutter in the table router, photo 11.

Cut each brass strip to length, and bore and countersink four fi xing holes. Also bore a pair of holes in each strip for the ball to locate in. Attach the strip to the lid using brass screws, photo 12.

Use the lid and the brass strips to determine the ideal positions for the ball catches in the tray sides, photo 13. Bore the holes for the ball catches in the tray sides and fully recess the brass body. Leave gluing the ball catches in position, until after the table is given its fi nal fi nish.




easy to cut. The only special tool recommended is a glue roller.

The playing board substrates are made from 9mm plywood, Cut and fi t them to the frame rebates, photo 18. Make the plywood a few millimetres undersize to allow for movement independent of the frame.

Hold the plywood in the frame and mark the extent of the playing areas, photo 19. Remove the plywood and draw the backgammon board layout on the marked playing areas, photo 20.

Cutting the veneersNext cut the veneers corresponding to the marked layout. Make up the opposing playing areas and trim their inner edges straight. Then add the centre piece of veneer and tape them all together to make a single large sheet.

Cut each piece with a sharp knife and

Remove them and draw the layout of the backgammon board on them

Cut and position each veneer piece, holding it in place with tape

Add a balancing veneer to the underside of the playing board

With all the veneers in place, carefully sand the surface smooth

Screw the playing boards to the frame through over-sized holes

Start by turning the ebony and satinwood blanks into rounds

Sand the chequers in a jam chuck and add a small chamfer all round

Laminate the hooks for the dice shakers from 2mm thick wood

The spare chequers fi t in a tailor-made block beneath the table

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frame, insetting it by about 18mm from the frame edge. Fix the hinge and stay to the frame, checking that the leg locks upright and folds parallel to the frame.

Adding trim and stopsA trim is fi tted to the underside of the frame. This is essential when the table is carried with the legs closed, as otherwise they can be rotated about the hinge and damaged. It also hides the leg stop blocks and protects the legs when the table is stored. Screw and glue the trim in position. Each leg is held in the closed position by means of a friction stop block. Make and screw the blocks into place, photo 17.

Making the playing boardsAlthough the veneering may look daunting, it is actually quite straightforward. The majority of the pieces are very similar and

An important stepRebate the frame underside to house the playing boards at this stage. Cut the rebate 11mm deep and 11mm wide, and stop it where the tray meets the frame. I used a handheld router and bearing-guided rebate cutter, taking progressively deeper cuts, photo 14. Leave the rounded corners.

Shaping the legsNext make the four legs. Cut a 4mm taper along the length of the inner two faces. I used the table saw and a simple jig that holds the leg at the required angle, photo 15. Plane each one, then sand or rout a small round along each leg edge.

The folding leg hinges and stays were taken from an old card table, photo 16. Screw a hinge and stay to each leg. Make sure the hinge sits fl ush with the leg in the open position. Position each leg on the



steel straight edge, As the knife cuts leave a slight V impression, cut from the underside to give tighter joint lines. Untidy edges or poorly fi tting pieces are easily corrected using a shooting board. Position each piece as it is cut and hold it in place using tape, photo 21.

Make a balancing veneer sheet for the underside of the plywood, photo 22. I used cherry as I had insuffi cient maple. The pattern is unimportant, but do match the grain orientation.

Applying the veneersPrepare the veneer press or cramps before you start gluing. This can be a press using mechanical screw, vacuum or hydraulic cramping. I made a vacuum bag press – see page 47 for details. Otherwise I would have used cauls and plenty of cramps.

Mix the glue and spread it evenly on one side of the plywood. I used powdered resin glue, spread with a rubber roller. Without delay, position the glue side on a veneer sheet and repeat on the other side of the plywood. Next, press the work using a vacuum press or cramps and cauls.

When the glue has cured, release the cramps, remove the jointing tape and scrape away any squeezed-out glue. Carefully sand the veneer smooth, photo 23. I used the random orbital sander with its speed reduced, and a fi ne grit paper.

Fit the veneered playing boards to the frame, photo 24. Oversized clearance holes allow for ease of alignment in the frames and also for any frame movement.

Turning the chequersThe game of backgammon uses 30 chequers. I made 32, fi xing a spare of each colour to the table underside. Start by turning the ebony and satinwood blanks

into rounds, photo 25. A diameter of 49mm, allows six chequers to fi t comfortably on the 300mm wide playing boards. Thoroughly sand the rounds while the blanks are mounted on the lathe.

Next cut each chequer from the rounds. Finished 19.5mm high, 15 chequers fi t each storage tray compartment.

Sand the chequer faces to a smooth fi nish. I sanded using the lathe fi tted with a simple softwood jam chuck, photo 26. This holds each chequer fi rmly and without marking. Thanks to Geoff Moss of the Mid Suffolk Coastal Woodturning Club for his guidance here. Soften the chequer edges by sanding a small chamfer round them.


by sanding a small chamfer round them.

FURTHER INFORMATIONBrusso ball catches■ Classic Hand Toolsl■ 01473 784 983■ www.classichandtools.comOsmo Polyx hardwax oil■ Cosmo UK■ 01296 481220■ www.osmouk.com

Final detailsThe pair of leather dice shakers are retained using simple spring clips. I made the fi xed and hooked ends by laminating together three and two pieces of 2mm thick wood respectively, photo 27.

Attach the spare chequers to the table underside, photo 28. I made a housing block by boring a pair of 50mm diameter holes in a piece of maple, with a small retaining piece screwed across the top.

Finishing touchesI fi nished the table components individually, with two coats of satin Osmo Polyx rapid oil. This was the fi rst time I’ve used hardwax oil, and I’m very impressed. It’s easily applied with a brush and gives a durable fi nish. The wood keeps its natural tone with little darkening.

Once dry I also gave the components a light wax, especially the sliding lid grooves. Finally I fi tted the brass strips, glued in the ball catches and assembled the table. Job done!


P12-17 Backgammon TableML - getwoodworking.com · 12 The Woodworker Winter 2009 PROJECT I...

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