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Owner’s Notes First Kiss Jeanneau 49

Updated 5/14/14

Welcome aboard! We are the proud owners of First Kiss and would like to share with you our passion for cruising the great Pacific Northwest. One of the reasons we purchased First Kiss is she is such an easy boat to sail. The two of us can easily handle her. She responds wonderfully to light winds and is very nimble yet stable in a breeze and is one of the fastest boats in the fleet. The electric winches take the work out of the sailing so you can sit back and enjoy the ride. She is efficient under power as well, cruising at 8 knots using 1.3 gallons per hour. She backs straight with only a slight walk to port and the bow thruster is great for docking and tight spaces. First Kiss is fully equipped with electronic navigation aids so you will know where you are and how to get there in the most comfort. She has a fantastic diesel hydronic heating system with separate controls in each of the 3 cabins and in the salon. Her large deep cycle batteries offer 550 usable amp hours of power to run any device on board such as a microwave, lights, TV, Stereo. The galley area is very generous and fully equipped with a 4 burner range and multi access refrigeration. The cockpit is wide with a large cockpit table that can easily accommodate 6 or more people and is a great gathering place on warm summer days. The walk through transom is great for getting on and off the boat whether at the dock or using the dinghy. As the evening closes in, the spacious well lighted salon offers rich teak environment to converse in, play games, read or enjoy a movie. We do have some basic rules we appreciate no pets and no smoking. As you read through the owners notes you will see First Kiss is outfitted to enhance your cruising experience with many conveniences and has many tips to get the most out of First Kiss and her equipment. I know we will make many wonderful memories cruising First Kiss in the San Juan Islands and our hope is that you can enjoy this beautiful corner of the world as much as we do. We sincerely hope you have a great time. If you have questions or feedback we would love to talk to you. You can reach Jed at 206-533-8733 (cell, personal and work) Happy sailing Sheri and Jed Miller First Kiss Spec’s:

Year: 2005, Commissioned 2006 LOA: 49' 1" LWL: 42' 3" Beam: 14' 8" Draft: 7' 0" Displacement: 27,888 lbs (dry) Mast height above WL: 64’ Fuel: 65 gal. And optional auxiliary 65 gal tank Water: 136 gal. in 2 tanks Holding: 13 gal. Fwd, 13 gal. Aft

Through-hull locations (Fore to aft) 1. Forward head, under sink: raw water intake, head discharge, sink drain. 2. Forward cabin, under center floorboard, centerline: transducers for depth sounder and knotmeter. 3. Galley, port side, under sink: galley sink drain, salt water seacock. 4. Aft head, under sink: raw water intake, head discharge, sink drain. 5. Engine compartment, aft: engine raw water (starboard side, forward sole); drive shaft seal (aft of engine under sole) INDEX: 1. Emergencies 13. Fuel Tanks 2. Anchors & Windlass 14. Furnace 3. Barbecue 15. Galley 4. Batteries 16. Heads and Holding Tanks 5. Berths 17. Refrigeration/Freezer 6. Cockpit and Accessories 18. Sails and Rigging 7. Dinghy 19. Sailing Characteristics 8. Docking 20. Showers 9. Dodger 21. Stove 10. Electrical Panel 22. Water 11. Electronics 23. Tools and Spare Parts 12. Engine 24. What’s Unique about First Kiss 1. Emergencies:

Fire – There are three ABC rated fire extinguishers on board. There are 2 Halon extinguishers located in the cabinet on the backside of the aft end of the dinette and a powder extinguisher in the starboard cockpit lazarrette. All are ABC fire extinguishers which are effective against electrical, grease, wood, and fuel fires. If you have a fire at the stove turn off the gas solenoid switch at the electrical panel. If there is a fire in the engine compartment, do not open the engine access to extinguish the fire, spray Halon into the engine compartment through a small round opening on the starboard side of the companionway steps. Hitting a Rock, Log, or Running A Ground – In case of striking a rock, log, or running aground, immediately check for leaks in the bilge and then check for cracks in the fore and aft sections of the bilge where the keel attaches to the hull. Also check all keel bolts. Once you are sure no water is entering the hull contact San Juan Sailing at 800-677-7245 and proceed to the nearest harbor and have a professional diver check the hull, keel, prop, and rudder before proceeding on your vacation. Leaks – First determine the source of the water (check the prop shaft first and then the through hulls) and be sure the bilge pumps are running. Get the crew on deck and into life jackets. Call for help as needed (use a PAN PAN call if the situation does not appear life threatening and a MAYDAY if it is). There are wood plugs tied in each area where there are through hulls. Bilge Pumps - There are three bilge pumps. The emergency bilge pump is located on the starboard side of the cockpit, just forward of the helm. The handle should be kept in the cockpit locker just forward of the pump. The electric bilge pump does have an automatic float switch which is wired directly to the batteries. The switch on the main panel will run the pump manually. Flares and First Aid Kit - Located in the bottom cabinet of the navigation table in a net bag.

2. Anchors and Windlass: First Kiss is equipped with two anchors, one forward (55# Delta with 250’ of 3/8ths chain) and a 32# Fortress in the aft port locker along with 40’ of 3/8ths chain and 300’ of rode. The scope normally used in the islands is 4 to 1, definitely not 7 to 1 (unless conditions call for it). This is because many of the anchorages are well protected and popular, so you will likely have someone anchored nearby. Most coves are 20’- 40’ deep; so expect to pay out about 80’ to 160’ of chain. After you have paid out the suitable amount of chain, 1 minute of 1100 rpm in reverse sets the anchor and tests its holding power. Also, the tides can change water depth up 15 feet in the islands so be aware of where you are in the cycle when choosing an anchorage and deciding how much chain to put out. I always have at least 10 feet below the keel at low tide. The electric anchor windlass circuit breaker (i.e., the “on” and “off” switch) is located in the cabinet on the backside of the aft end of the dinette. Please note the windlass will not run unless the engine is running. The up-down controller for the windlass is secured inside the forward sail locker (just under hatch, port side). The chain is marked with (2) colored vinyl markers every 30 feet. Additionally, there is a chain counter at the helm. Please do not use the windlass controls at the helm as it is very easy to ding the bow with the anchor; anchoring should be a two person job! Be sure to take the tension off of the windlass by attaching the snubber line to the chain and a cleat (not the windlass), and then running out more chain until the chain on the drum is slack. The snubber line has been replaced and is now black. When stowing the anchor leave the chain a bit slack to take tension off the windlass and so the forestay will not rub on the chain.

Windlass controller hangs on hook in fender locker.

Snubber line for anchor chain (snubber line color is now black)

Anchor wash down pump/hose. The anchor wash down hose is located in the bow fender locker, and is comprised of a coiled plastic hose with a deck quick connect fitting attached. Attach the wash down hose to the deck fitting on the deck just starboard of the fender locker hatch. Turn on the salt water intake valve below the sink in the forward head. Turn on power to the wash down pump at the main electrical panel above the navigation table. To use the pump there is a switch in the fender locker next to the light fixture. This switch energizes the pump. Limit pump use to no more than 15 minutes, more could overheat the pump. When done switch off power at the fender locker and then at the main panel. Detailed operating instructions are listed bellow:

Lowering the anchor: i. Turn on the circuit breaker for the windlass. (see section 10 electrical panels for photo)

ii. Chain counter display will say 0.0 feet. (See section 11 for chain counter photo) iii. Lower the anchor until the needed chain is paid out. iv. Secure the chain with the snubber and run out enough chain to take the load off of the

windlass. DO NOT LEAVE THE LOAD ON THE DRUM. Run the snubber line over the port roller and secure it to the port cleat. The reason is this, if the snubber line stays on the starboard side along with the chain it slides from side to side as the boat swings and bangs the chain into the roller brackets. It is quite noisy for anyone sleeping in the forward-berth.

v. Set the anchor by reversing the engine at 1200 RPM for about a minute. vi. Turn off the circuit breaker and turn on the anchor light when appropriate.

Raising the anchor: i. Start the engine.

ii. Turn on the circuit breaker for the windlass and, if needed, turn off the anchor light. iii. Attach hose to deck fitting (aft of sail locker starboard side) then turn on the wash down

valve located under the forward head sink and turn on the wash down pump switch (red toggle), located on the main panel.

iv. Take in enough chain to retrieve the snubber. v. When retrieving the anchor, never use the windlass to pull the boat; instead, slowly power

toward the anchor while using the windlass (up button on the remote control) to take up the slack. Also, if the anchor is really stuck in the mud (you will hear the windlass slow under the load) stop the windlass and drive the boat slowly forward to free the anchor.

vi. Please use the wash down hose to ‘wash’ the anchor as it is retrieved. This will keep the boat and anchor locker a lot cleaner.

vii. The incoming chain will pile up against the aft end of the chain locker so the operator needs to reach in and swing the chain coming off the windlass forward every few seconds. This is not hard to do but takes a bit of timing. Just lift up the chain and let it fall through or run the windlass back out for a second to clear.

viii. Once the anchor is out of the water make sure the anchor is rotated so that the flukes are pointed towards the boat, please wash it down and retrieve it in one easy motion, stopping half way could cause it to swing and hit the bow. BE VERY CARFUL WHEN THE ANCHOR IS OUT OF THE WATER, FIRST KISS HAS A VERY PLUMB BOW AND IT IS EASY TO HIT THE BOW WITH THE ANCHOR. Leave the chain slightly slack when the anchor is fully in the resting mode.

ix. Switch the windlass breaker “off” to prevent draining the start battery and turn off the anchor wash down pump on the main panel.

Attach snubber to port bow cleat run line through port bow roller. Attach snubber line

to chain and release chain tension

Anchor wash down pump switch

Stern Ties: There are times when adding a stern tie to shore will be handy, especially in Desolation Sound. First Kiss has 600’ of line on a spool for this purpose. It is stored in the Port cockpit locker along with a 3’-6” piece of black plastic pipe. We use the pipe to mount the spool in the transom walk-through so that the line can easily be deployed and recovered. The recovered line is usually very wet so we leave the spool sitting on end in the walk-through for a couple hours to dry before we put it away.

3. Barbecue: First Kiss has a party size Magma BBQ and it is mounted on the port side stern pulpit above the propane storage locker. There is a line plumbed from the main propane tanks inside the propane locker to the BBQ. However, you will need to turn on the LP Gas solenoid breaker on the main panel. When using the BBQ it is not necessary to preheat it. Excessive heat will cause the cover to discolor and waste gas. We have found for most grilling, medium heat works best. When cooking with the lid closed use low heat. Check your food often as the BBQ is very efficient and cooks fast. When you are done with the BBQ turn off the LP Gas breaker switch on the main panel; DO NOT RELY ON THE CONTOLER AT THE BBQ AS THE ONLY SHUTOFF FOR THE PROPANE. To light the BBQ depress knob & rotate counterclockwise to the High position then push the piezo igniter (red button) and confirm ignition then turn knob to adjust flame to medium heat. If using the piezo igniter fails, place a flame through the match light hole at the bottom of the BBQ while depressing the valve in the high position. When done using the grill use the wire brush on the grate and wash the exterior with soapy water and close the cover when not in use. 4. Batteries: First Kiss has 3 banks of batteries on board: a set for starting the engine, a set of large house batteries and another set for the bow thruster. We have her wired for maximum convenience, which hopefully means you will have nothing to do. The house batteries have a total capacity of 1350 amp hours with approximately 550 amp/hrs of usable charge (most boats have 200-300 total) so there should be plenty of power to keep the systems running for several days. The ON/OFF switches are in the cabinet on the back side of the aft end of the dinette and fuses are located under the aft end of the dinette seat, next to each fuse is a spare placed with plastic ties. There is also a joiner switch should this be needed. These three battery systems are separated with an isolator from each other so it should be impossible to drain the start battery by running house systems. The batteries are located under the aft and port sides of the dinette and forward under the berth for the bow thruster.

Battery Monitor – First Kiss has a Link 10, which can be used to monitor the house batteries; it located on the forward end of the nav station. You can monitor the voltage, amps; amp-hrs consumed and charge percentage remaining. You can also see the voltage of the house batteries on the inverter panel.

Use the Select button (Sel) to select between volts (shown), amps, amp hours consumed, and time remaining.

Inverter/House Battery Charger – We have installed a 3000-watt inverter so that 110 v. power can be used at any time. Be aware that appliances like the toaster, microwave and TV draw a lot of power, so watch your consumption on the Link 10 monitor. A couple of notes; please leave the 110V switch marked ‘Inverter/Charger’ on the main panel turned on so that the battery charger will function when shore power is available This same breaker is needed to supply shore power to the outlets. (See section 10 Electrical Panel)

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Battery Charging – There is a second battery charger which charges the start and bow thruster batteries. It is powered by the breaker on the 110 panel label ‘Battery Charger’, this breaker should be left on at all times. In addition to the battery chargers First Kiss has two alternators on the engine, one of which is quite large (mounted under the engine) and dedicated to the house system.

5. Berths: Our boat sleeps seven; two in the private cabin forward, two in each of the quarter berths and one in the main salon. All three double berths are quite roomy, each about equal to a queen bed. Each of the double berths has 2” memory foam pads added for extra comfort. 6. Cockpit and Accessories.

Seat Cushions 6 folding navy blue seat cushions stored in the aft starboard locker Power Cords - There are two power cords for shore-power. One short (25’), one long (50’}. When at a dock you can use the short cord or if it is not long enough, link the long cord to the short cord to run the length of the boat. The cords are kept in the starboard cockpit locker. Both cords belong with the boat at all times. Dock Step – There is an inflatable dock step made of blue plastic with a sunbrella apron sewn onto the attachment lines. The apron protects the hull from sand coming off shoes. It is stored in the forward fender locker. Please clean shoes of sand before boarding boat. Sand is very destructive to the floor finishes. Transom gate. The latch on the port gate is made of plastic and will break if the starboard gate is not secure when the gates are in the closed position. The transom gate has a throw bolt at the base for each gate that secures the gate in both the open and closed positions. On the starboard side there are two locations one in the open and one when the gate is to be closed, be sure to rotate the through bolt handle flat or it will hang up on the port gate. On the port side there is one when the gate is in the open position. Please secure the gates when either in the open or closed position. Please do not sit or stand on the gates, it will break the hinges. Life/Safety. There are 6 Sterns life jackets (two in each cabin), a throw line stowed in the starboard cockpit locker and flares located under the navigation table seat. On the Starboard

Switch to turn on Inverter.

transom rail is a Life Sling. There are air canister horns and an additional parachute flare with two flashlights under the top companionway step. Fresh water spray - To the right of the hand held VHF control is a retractable fresh water hose and next to it the control for both hot and cold. Use this to clean shoes of sand before going into the cockpit area and below decks. (See Section 24 for picture) Cockpit table - There is storage inside the cockpit table with drink holders on top and under both the forward and aft ends. The aft lower holder also is the place to stow the binoculars. There are two pull out support rods for each folding leaf. Please make sure they are fully slid back before lowering the leaf. If not this could damage the hinges. Please do not sit on the table as it will mar the 10 coats of varnish and possibly break it.

7. Dinghy: The 9’-6” West Marine dinghy rows reasonably and the (new 20/14) 2.3 hp motor pushes it along nicely. We tie the painter off twice--a cleat tie close and the bitter end we tie onto the stern rail and please use the chock in the toe rail. Do not lead dock or tow lines over the teak toe-rail. Also, please tie the dinghy off the starboard side; this keeps it away from the engine exhaust. You may also stow the dinghy on the foredeck this works well when it is windy and there is a choppy sea. It weighs approximately 80 lbs so two people can maneuver it easily, or, it can be lifted sideways and secured to the transom. This is my favorite of the three options as it is very easy to do and it you do not have to worry about towing it or lifting it onboard. I have straps attached to the dinghy handrails, the red straps tie to the stern pulpit and the black strap ties to the transom step hand hold bar. Raising and lowering is very easy, bring the dink along side the transom step, pivot it up and lift it up into position so it rests on the transom step, then secure it with the ties as shown. I rotate the outboard motor so the prop does not rub on the side of the dinghy. When lowering the dinghy untie the black bottom strap first then the red top straps and slowly drop the dinghy into the water. The oars are secured to the oarlocks via a small wire cable this is to avoid loosing the oars. (They are spendy $$.)

Outboard Motor - First Kiss comes equipped with a 2.3 HP Honda outboard (new 2014). This is easy to operate, lightweight (30 lbs) and is very reliable. Please use a safety line, securing the line to the rail, when transferring to and from the dinghy. Never tow the dinghy with the outboard on the dinghy. Always transfer the outboard to the sailboat transom. Never leave the outboard on the dinghy overnight. If you immerse the outboard in salt water, we will be ask you to pay for it. To start motor, open vent screw on top of gas cap, set throttle to start, slide on/off switch to on and make sure the red stop button has the coiled red plastic line attached to it. Pull out the choke and pull the start cord. After it starts push in choke and throttle to idle. To stop the motor pull the red plastic cord and the kill button closes and kills the motor. As owners, we would very much appreciate your special care when beaching the dinghy. Beaches in the San Juan’s are seldom gentle, sandy beaches; most often they are rocky and covered by barnacles equipped with extra sharp rubber cutters. Here’s what works best: launch a person off the dinghy bow as you approach shore; then offload everyone over the bow. Now lift the dinghy above barnacle height and deposit it gently on the beach (it really is quite light and easy to carry). We also secure the painter under a rock or to a log—a rising tide can leave you high, dry and dinghy less!

Red straps to stern pulpit and Black strap to stern hand bar

8. Docking/Bow Thruster: First Kiss is equipped with a bow thruster to aid in docking. The thruster controls are located at the starboard helm. To turn it on hold down both buttons for 2 seconds or until you hear the beep. When needed, the red button moves the bow to port and the green button moves it to starboard. The thruster will automatically turn itself off after 5 min. of non-use, (it will beep several times). It is best to use the thruster in short bursts of up to 5 seconds to prevent over draining the battery. Important: the boat will pivot when the thruster is used. In other words, when the bow goes to port the stern will go to starboard (the pivot point is about at the engine). So, be sure you have room on both sides of the boat. We find it is helpful for the person handling the lines to take a line from the mid-ship cleat, this allows them to pull the boat to the dock without ‘losing’ the stern. We have a dock hook with a black line in the Port locker; you can use this very effectively to grapple the dock. The other important issue is prop-walk in reverse – First Kiss has some walk to port. Be aware of this when planning your docking. For example, if you can get a bow-in, port tie slip the prop-walk will pull the stern into the dock when you go into reverse. 9. Dodger/ Bimini: (New 2014) As with all dodger windows, please be gentle. If the clear plastic windows are spotted with salt please wash with a very wet sponge or rag, or better, just rinse with a fresh water hose at the dock, this prevents the salt from scratching the plastic. The bimini covers the entire cockpit and because it is higher than the boom the bimini is to be used only at anchor or when motoring. Use the black straps to secure it to the backstays when folded and when deployed the black straps attach to the dodger. The boom will need to be raised using the topping lift so that it clears the front of the bimini. I usually move the boom over to the port side using the traveler. To deploy the bimini you will need to switch the aft support struts. The short strut is used when deployed, the long strut is used when it is in the stored or sailing position. It works best to have two people deploy the bimini one provides lifting support and the other places the quick release pin on the aft pulpit attachment. There are black plastic clips to use on the struts to secure them when they are not being used.

Black straps attach to dodger hand grab bar. Use same staps to fold Bimini frames to backstay

Attach rear support struts To stern pulpit

Two struts are used, one while sailing and one to deploy the bimini

10. Electrical Panels: PLEASE NOTE! To get shore power to the outlets the main shore power breaker, the inverter breaker and the outlet breaker all need to be on. To disconnect shore power, first turn off the breaker switches at both the boat and the dock then disconnect the power cords. Failure to do so could cause arching of the connections when the cord is removed damaging the cord and receptacles. Color code dots have added to assist you in operation = Red - always off, Yellow - switch as needed, Green - always on.

110VAC Panel to right of Nav. Table

Water Heater

Charger for Start Battery

-Leave On-

AC Outlets 1: Port Side Outlets and Microwave

AC to Inverter, Outlets and Charger for House Bat. -Leave On-

AC Outlets 2: STBD Side Outlets and DVD

Unused

Main shore power breaker

Battery Switches – Located back side of aft end of dinette.

Battery Joiner Normally left off

House Battery Switch Normally left on

Start Battery Switch Normally left on

Anchor Windlass Breaker

12 V DC Panel

Nav. Lights Steaming Light Anchor Light Deck Light Stereo/DVD

Cabin Lights 12V DC plug-in

Instrmt. Lights Instruments Radio/Stereo Chart Plotter and Radar Autopilot and wind/depth instruments

Bilge Pump -Manual Override

Water Pressure

Wash Down Pump (red toggle) (hose in anchor locker, intake valve in forward head under sink)

Propane Solenoid Unused

Water usage meter in liters (257) per tank

Shower Sumps

Refrigerator -Leave On-

12V DC plug-in

Freezer -Leave On-

11. Electronics/Instruments:

Cellular Telephones – There are (4) 12-volt cigarette lighter type outlets for recharging cellular telephones ipod or mp3, etc. One on the main panel and one in the V-berth and in each quarter berth. Also, since we have an inverter you can charge using a normal 110-volt charger. Cell phone coverage is good in Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor. It is spotty elsewhere. Chain Counter/Windlass Controller – We have installed a chain counter with its readout located at the starboard helm. This allows the person at the helm to see exactly how much chain is out. This same instrument provides control of the windlass. It is not a good idea to operate the anchor from the aft position because the bow is so plum and it is difficult to see when things go awry. Note the power to this controller comes from the windlass breaker, located with the battery on/off switches. We usually have this switch off until ready to anchor. Wind Instruments – Wind speed and direction are displayed at both helms.

Chain Counter - turn on breaker switch next to battery on/off switches

Depth and Speed

Bow Thruster Controls

Wind Instr.

Picture shows controls at Stb. helm.

Chart Plotter/Radar – We have a large-screen C-120 color chart plotter installed at the helm and one at the nav. station. The one at the helm is integrated with the radar and the one at the nav station is integrated with the autopilot. The “G.P.S.” breaker must be on at the electrical panel to send current to these units. Power them on by pressing the red power button on the units. The manuals for the chart plotter and radar are in the chart table pedestal.

After the unit is turned on to turn on the radar press the red button again in the lower left corner once. This will bring up a menu on the bottom of the screen with two options on the left side: Radar and Scanner, see simulation below:

RADAR SCANNER TX STDBY ON OFF

The scanner needs to be on before the radar will work so if off is highlighted press the button below Scanner once (if On is highlighted skip this step). The scanner takes about 70 seconds to warm up so it will look like nothing is happening – be patient. Once the scanner is on the Radar option will be available – press the button below it to start transmitting. If you want to stop transmitting push the button below Radar once more to go to standby mode. If you are done with the radar for the day push the button below Scanner to turn it off. Please note this process also takes over a minute.

Depth Sounder – There are two depth sounders displays, one at each helm. The picture above shows the one at the starboard helm. Please note this digital depth sounder will not give accurate readings beyond 400’. It is designed for use in shallow waters. In deeper water, the sensitivity on the unit increases as the transducer tries to get some reading back. Consequently, you will receive many false readings caused by currents, changes in water temperature, fish, and underwater seaweed. We suggest using the depth sounder mainly as an aid to navigation in shallow water. The key to avoiding rocks is not the depth sounder—but knowing where you are on the chart at all times. (Rocks are the single biggest navigational and safety hazard in the islands – but they are all marked on the charts.) We do not recommend using the alarm. Experience in the islands tells us that it goes off at the wrong time – usually the middle of the night as sea life passes underneath. Special Note: First Kiss draws seven feet. The sounder is set to read the depth of water from the waterline. Therefore if the sounder is reading 20 feet you are in 20 feet of water and should have 13 feet of water under the keel (check your chart and tide book when anchored or moored to a buoy for the night) to allow for tidal rise and fall. (Try to have at least 10 feet under keel at low tide.)

Knot Meter – There are two knot meter displays (shared with depth sounder), one at each helm. If the digital knot meter shows a reading of “0.00” while underway, the impeller is most likely clogged. Sometimes it will clear its self; wakes from big powerboats are good for this. You can also try clearing it by traveling in reverse. The impeller is under the forward berth sole. You can remove the impeller to clear it if you are experienced in such things. Also, GPS shows speed over ground (SOG) on the chart plotter. Stereo – We have installed a good quality car stereo/CD player with speakers in the cabin and cockpit. It is located just forward of the nav station behind the low sliding doors. Please be aware of other boats when you are in harbor and adjust the fader so that the cockpit speakers are turned off when not in use. We have installed a unit with a front input for MP3 players and it has a native iPod plug attached. TV/DVD Player – We have an HDTV with built-in DVD player on board for your enjoyment. The

Stereo with Ipod /MP3 plug in. MP3 plug in. Stereo remote control

TV is mounted at the forward end of the main salon and the DVD player is in cabinet with the stereo. You will need the inverter on to use the TV unless you are hooked to shore power. The remote controls are stored in the cabinet with the DVD player. Use the TV remote to turn on the TV. The DVD control does everything else

VHF Radio – The main radio is mounted at the nav station and a RAM mic is available for the cockpit it desired. If you plan on using the RAM mic it has to be plugged in before the radio is turned on. The RAM mic is normally stored in the nav table in the salon when not in use. We recommend that you monitor Channel 16 during your cruise. It is reserved for emergencies and boat-to-boat initial contact. After contact, move to channels 9, 68, 69, or 80. We listen to weather channels 1, 2, 3, 4 or 8 (whichever gives the best reception, usually, channel 4) before we sail in the morning and prior to anchoring for the evening. This is generally a light wind region but weather changes can be sudden. Listen for the reports identified as “Camano Island to Point Roberts” and/or “Inland Waters of Western Washington”. San Juan Sailing monitors channel 80 during office hours (closed Sundays). The San Juan Sailing office phone is 1-800-677-7245. A note about the distress alarm. This radio has DSC emergency capability. The red switch in the lower right corner is the emergency switch. You would use this in the case of a mayday type emergency. However when another boat broadcasts a mayday distress using the DSC this triggers a very loud alarm for 2 minutes. To stop the alarm hit any key on the radio and then listen to channel 16 for instructions broadcasted by the coast guard.

12. Engine:

DVD Player

TV controller

DVD controller

Starting:

a. Check the oil level and sea strainer. The dipstick is easily accessed on the starboard side of the engine. The best access for this procedure is had by tipping the companion way steps forward. The dipstick is about half way back on the starboard side of the engine (see picture above). The sea strainer is mounted to the starboard side of the engine enclosure. Remove any eelgrass or debris be sure the lid is on just hand tight.

b. Make sure the gearshift is in neutral (approx. vertical). c. Turn the key all the way to the right to engage starter. The buzzer should sound. This is

the warning buzzer you would hear if the engine overheats or if there is loss of oil pressure.

d. After it starts, check for water flowing out the exhaust. e. Please allow 5 minutes of warm up before placing a load on the engine. Pushing a cold

engine is very hard on diesels.

Operation – We have found the 100 HP turbocharged Yanmar engine to be very reliable. Cruising should be done at engine RPMs of 2200 to 2800 RPM. Because the engine is turbocharged it is not good to run it below 2200 for long periods of time. The following table gives approximate cruising information:

RPM’s Boat Speed Fuel Consumption Range Engine Temp 2200 8.0 knots Approx. 1.3 gal/hr 245 KM 180º - 190º 2400 8.2 knots Approx. 1.5 gal/hr 230 KM 190º - 200º 2800 8.5 Knots Approx. 1.75 gal/hr 210 KM 200º - 210º

The ranges listed assume a 25% reserve in the 68 gal main fuel tank. Please note there is an additional fuel tank but it is not normally used and as such is usually empty. We find pushing the engine beyond 3000 RPM or 8.75 knots does little good as the boat reaches hull speed at about that point. 3800 RPM is maximum throttle and will give 8.9 + knots it is loud and it burns the most fuel and works the alternator very hard. If needed, run at 3000 RPM for short periods (30 min. max.) Then drop down to the normal cruising range of between the 2200 to 2800 RPM. Best fuel consumption is at 2200 rpm/8 knots and the alternator charges best at that speed. The engine runs quieter and the alternator runs cooler thus it charges the house batteries quicker. Also, there is a blower in the engine compartment, which is vented in the transom walkway between the cockpit and the swim step. This helps keep the large alternator cool.

Check coolant level here.

Check seawater strainer here

Check oil level here

Add oil here

Engine Overheat – If the buzzer sounds while the engine is running, immediately check the oil pressure and temperature gauges. (the temp gauge reads a 15º higher than the actual engine temp at the top range of the gauge, this is normal.) If oil pressure is low, shut down the engine, check the oil level, and contact San Juan Sailing. (We have never had an oil pressure problem and we hope you don't either). Most likely a buzzer means the engine has overheated. Check for water flowing out with the exhaust. If flowing, check the coolant level. If there is no water flow the water strainer is likely plugged. If something like eelgrass gets sucked into the engine cooling water intake, it jams the raw water strainer (located on the starboard side of the engine compartment). The strainer has been installed ABOVE THE WATERLINE, so there is no need to shut off the raw water intake through-hull seacock (at the hull, below the cabin sole and forward of the engine) prior to removing the lid to clear debris. To clear it unscrew the top of the strainer and remove the eelgrass or other materials. Replace the lid and tighten hand tight, being careful to reinsert the O-ring properly, if the strainer draws air, it won't draw water and the engine will overheat. (Also, if you shut the raw water intake seacock, even though unnecessary, make sure it’s in the open position before restarting.) If still overheating, call San Juan Sailing for assistance.

Engine Shutdown – Please do not turn off the key while the engine is running (it can blow the alternator diodes! $$!) First make sure the engine is at idle and the gearshift in neutral. Then push the red fuel cutoff button next to the key. When the engine dies and the alarm sounds turn off the key. If you are sailing when you turn off the engine you may need to put the gearshift into reverse this helps feather the Maxprop. If the prop needs feathering you can hear the shaft turning when you go below. Engine Troubleshooting and Emergency Starting – If the engine is totally unresponsive to the key or start button check to be sure that the start battery switch is on; it is located in the cabinet on the backside of the aft end of the dinette.

Tachometer

Stop Button (Fuel Cutoff)

Engine hours

Switch to engage fuel transfer and gauge for Aux. Fuel tank

Engine Control Panel

13. Fuel Tank: There are two 68-gallon tanks, one under each of the aft berths. The main tank is under the port berth and the auxiliary tank is under the starboard berth. The fuel gauge for the main tank is above the shift handle at the starboard helm. The gauge for the auxiliary tank is in the engine panel located in front of the starboard helm. The tank fills are located at the far aft end of the deck on each side of the boat, again, main tank to port and aux. tank to starboard. When filling the tanks stop as soon as you hear fuel coming up the fill pipe. It will foam out the vent if you go much further. The main fuel filter is located in the engine compartment in the aft, starboard corner. It can be accessed from the starboard aft berth. As the auxiliary tank is rarely used it is empty. If there is fuel in the starboard auxiliary tank it must be transferred to the port tank. To transfer fuel there is a switch on the cockpit control panel below the engine on switch this must be manually held in the on position and transfers fuel at the rate of 1 gallon per minute. 14. Furnace: The furnace is a Hurricane hydronic system. It is diesel fueled and is mounted in the starboard cockpit locker. There are thermostats located on the forward end of the nav. station and in each stateroom. Pressing the moon button on a thermostat sets the temperature at 61 degrees. Pressing the sun button sets the temperature at 71 degrees. These setting can be adjusted from there using the up and down controls below the moon and sun buttons. Please note that the heater also heats water in the hot water tank so that you can have hot water whenever desired by turning on the toggle switch below the heater switch. When running the heater uses about .5 gal/hr of diesel but it typically run turns on and off.

Main Fuel Tank Gauge

Oil Pressure Gauge

Engine Temp.

Auto Pilot

Picture shows controls at starboard helm.

15. Galley: For those of you who are interested in fine dining while on vacation, we have done our best to setup First Kiss with a well-equipped galley. We have place settings for 8 on board and most of the pots, pans and utensils needed for food preparation. There is an assortment of spices and supplies on board. The following list is intended to give you a flavor of what we try to keep on board. Please note that no refrigerated items are included.

A. Spices – salt, sea salt, Johnny's seasoning Salt, pepper, cayenne pepper, red chili pepper, basil, oregano, rosemary, cinnamon , garlic powder, chili powder, soy sauce, B. Supplies – saran wrap, aluminum foil, baggies, a few containers for leftovers, garbage bags and coffee filters. All we ask is when you use the last of something that you replace it, thanks. There is also an assortment of cleaning supplies should you need them, kept under the floorboards in front of the sink.

Dish Drier Rack - We have a white plastic dish rack that we store in the salon settee below the wine storage area. Microwave – We have installed a microwave in the galley for convenience. You will need to be sure the inverter is on before using unless you are hooked to shore power. Also, the Port AC Outlets switch on the 110V Panel (lower left corner) will need to be on.

Press here to set heat at 71 deg. Press here to set

heat at 61 deg.

Main switch for diesel heater. Chrome toggle switch is for hot water.

These control temp up or down manually.

16. Heads and Holding Tanks: Please do not put anything in the toilet that has not been eaten. Experienced sailors deposit toilet paper in a wastebasket, not down the toilet because paper tends to clog the vents. The heads each have their own holding tanks, each holds 13 gallons. There are no Y-valves, the heads pump directly into the holding tanks. The tanks can then be dumped overboard (if you are in Canada, open waters) by opening the drain valves, again under the sinks. Please note these are gravity drain tanks, there is no need for a macerator. They will normally drain in less than a minute (you will hear them finish with a ‘whoosh’ if the engine is not running); or pump out when in harbor. If you want to pump out the tanks the deck fittings are on the port side for the aft head and on the starboard side for the forward head. If you have four or more people on board it is a good idea to empty the tanks often. There is no level indicator so being ‘regular’ with your dumping is important – sorry about the pun. San Juan Sailing staff will discuss holding tanks and pump outs on your arrival. Our one plea is this: don’t over fill the holding tank! Leaking sewage is most unpleasant! Thank you. 17. Refrigerator/Freezer: The on/off switches are on the electrical panel and are left on all the time. The thermostats are in the slide cupboard just above the counter behind the refrigerator and freezer compartments. We usually keep the refrigerator thermostat set a little above 4. Any higher and things start to freeze. The freezer (the smaller of the two compartments) is set to about 3 to 4 depending on how much food is stored in the compartment. The refrigerator can be accessed from the top as well as the front stainless steel door. There is a drain for each compartment. We have inserted a rubber stopper plug to help maintain proper temperature. If you need to clean or drain the compartments please replace the rubber stopper this helps conserve energy.

Intake for anchor wash down pump.

Picture of Aft Head Under Sink

Valves to dump holding tanks.

Picture of Forward Head Under

Refrigerator Thermostat control

Freezer Thermostat control

18. Sails and Rigging: Mainsail – The mainsail is a fully battened standard sail with two single-line reef points. Here are the procedures for raising and lower the sail:

Raising: 1. Remove sail cover. 2. Attach halyard (normally stored at end of boom) 3. Loosen main sheet some but re-close clutch. 4. If desired extend lazy jacks. 5. Head the boat into the wind. 6. Remove sail ties. 7. Raise sail with halyard at the mast and someone at the cockpit to take up slack and

for final luff tensioning use the electric winch on cabin top. As the sail is hoisted check the slack reef lines do not get hung up on the gooseneck fittings. Please do not over tension the halyard it can damage the sail and the blocks. Stop when you see the black ring emerge from the sheet stopper.

8. Cleat and remove halyard from winch. 9. Loosen topping lift (if this is not done the sheet will pull on the topping lift and not

the sail). 10. Wrap main sheet on winch and open its clutch.

Lowering: 1. If not out, deploy lazy jacks. 2. Head boat to windward. 3. Ease sheet and tighten topping lift. 4. Lower sail while flaking. 5. Tie down. 6. Take lazy jack lines forward (this has to be done in order to put sail cover on). 7. Detach halyard and store at end of boom. 8. Put on sail cover.

Electric Winches – The electric winches should be used only for sheeting in the sails, raising the main or running a person up the mast on the bosun’s chair. When hoisting the main, as the main sail nears full hoist check to see that the slack reef lines are clear of mast cleats/fittings near the boom gooseneck. Winch handles are located under the top step of the companionway Electric winches can easily break sails, lines or fittings, all of which will break before the winch does. Please do not use the self tailer. Tail the sheet by hand when using power and keep your eye on the sail as it is being winched. All of the electric winches have two buttons to control them, one for fast and one for slow. If a winch stops working there are circuit breaker switches for each winch are located under main salon seats. Lift up the aft most seat cushion and then the plywood cover and on the port side bulkhead there are three black breaker switches.

Headsail - Our genoa is a 130% and is roller furling and takes a good sail shape at the full out position. Its size helps in lighter air but during periods of heavier winds you may furl the headsail as desired. Please keep moderate hand held tension on the roller furling line when deploying the headsail to prevent a line kink or rat's nest on the drum and similar tension on the sheets when furling to prevent ‘candy striping’ of the furled sail. The fairlead position for upwind is marked on the adjuster line at the cam cleat with a black ring. Ease the fairlead forward for reaching.

19. Sailing Characteristics: First Kiss is a very solid vessel with well balance handling characteristics and is an absolute joy to sail and when the wind approaches 12-15 knots true, it will sail faster to weather than you can motor. We have trailing tell-tales on the main sail leech to assist mainsail trim. This boat sails best when the main sail leech tell tales fly straight aft. If they don’t trail straight aft when sailing upwind, most likely you need to ease the mainsail traveler. As the wind builds to above 15 knots true wind speed the mainsail luff tension will loosen as the sail stretches. You can tighten the luff using the Cunningham (main down haul) I usually tighten the main outhaul first then as the luff gets loose use the Cunningham to tighten the luff. Tightening the outhaul and luff flattens out the main sail shape and de-powers the main. As wind speed approaches 20 knots true you can either let the main out on the traveler or put in the first reef. At 20 knots true you will be over powered and notice a heavy helm and need to put in the first reef. It is recommend to reef the main sail before reducing the headsail area for best helm balance. As the wind builds to 25 knots true you can reduce the headsail. The reef is a jiffy reef system that takes in both the mainsail tack and clew, so as you lower the main take in on the reef one line located on the starboard cabin top using the manual winch. The second reef line is located on the port side cabin top. The genoa fairlead is set for general wind conditions and can be adjusted for light air or reaching. Be very careful when tightening the Genoa sheet using the primary electric winch. It is very easy to over tighten and put the leech of the genoa into the shroud, this will damage the sail leech where it chafes against the shroud and lower spreader I try to keep the leech of the Genoa at least 6” away from the lower spreader. When you go on a reach you may want to move the fairlead forward but remember to move it back to the standard set for general sailing or your leech will be to tight. The general fairlead setting is where the fairlead is adjacent to aft main salon window division. One note of caution when sailing off the wind. The mast is rigged with swept back spreaders/shrouds and as such it is difficult to sail dead down wind with out having the boom hit the shrouds and the sail rub the rig. This boat is really designed to broad reach and will sail much better on a broad reach (120º). You will also avoid a dangerous accidental jib sailing on a broad reach. We have incurred damage to the boom via an accidental jibe and after repairing the boom (big dent) have placed a leather chafe guard on the boom in the event the boom should ever hit the shroud again. Please be careful sailing off the wind. Thank you! 20. Showers: Experienced cruisers know the sailor's shower: get wet, turn it off, soap up, rinse off. CAUTION: the engine can heat the water to scalding temperatures! Each shower has a sump pump with a switch located in the shower area. These pumps also have breakers on the main panel and are labeled as such (we normally leave these breakers turned off). There are strainers located between the sumps and the pumps (under the sinks), which need to get cleaned out every 4-5 showers (they quickly fill with hair and lint). There is also a shower fixture back at the swim platform. This is useful for washing off shoes after returning from the beach. This fixture is located by the starboard helm.

Genoa fairlead general sailing position is even with the salon window aft division

21. Stove The stove has four burners, an oven and broiler. Propane is heavier than air and requires caution. For your safety please follow these procedures. 1. Open the hand valve on the propane tank all the way open. 2. Make sure all the stove controls are in the off position. 3. Turn on the propane solenoid switch at the electrical panel. 4. Turn the desired burner control knob to the large flame symbol on the panel (this is full on) depress

the control knob and hold while then pressing electronic ignition button, the burner will light, keep the control knob depressed for 10 seconds then release. If burner does not light repeat procedure. Turn knob to the off position when done.

5. When finished cooking immediately turn the electric solenoid switch to off. Oven burner. To light the oven burner turn the control knob until it coincides with the “9” symbol, press electronic ignition button, the burner will light and keep the control knob depressed for 10 seconds then release. “9” is full on, “1” is low flame. Grill burner. The burner is in the off position when the control knob coincides with the full disc symbol. To light the grill burner open the oven door, pull the heat shield out and turn the knob to the left. Press the electronic ignition button to light the burner and keep the control knob depressed for 10 seconds then release. Close the door up to the heat shield. Note! At times the solenoid, located between the propane gas tanks, may stick which causes a weak flow of gas, a sharp tap on the side of the solenoid will free it. Description of the panel controls. From left to right. Electronic ignition button, Medium burner, small burner, oven and grill, large burner and on the far right the medium burner. For reference there is a stove manual with the other manuals in a blue file bag above the navigation table. Please note that both propane valves are located in the propane locker in the aft of the cockpit, which is vented and isolated from the rest of the boat. That way, any leaks will be vented away from the boat. San Juan Sailing’s staff fills the propane tank every 3 weeks. One tank normally lasts 6 weeks or more and First Kiss has two tanks (one connected and a spare); so you should be in good shape. 22. Water:

Water pressure –The water pressure switch is located on the electrical panel. Please switch this off when motoring or sailing. If left on you could burn out the pump if one of the tanks runs dry (and you would not hear the sound of the pump running over the sound of motoring or sailing). First Kiss has two 68 gallon water tanks located under the forward berth and accessible via a distribution manifold located behind the salon cushions on the starboard side. Water use can be monitored by either a mechanical water gauge located next to the manifold or an electric gauge at the navigation station. NOTE: Both gauges show how much water has been used NOT how much is remaining. The gauges read in liters 68 gallons equals 257 liters. The digital readout on the main panel, which indicates water usage, should be reset to zero when you change from one tank to another or refill all the tanks at the dock. Water Heater – The water is heated automatically when the engine runs under load (it takes about 45 minutes), running it at idle in the morning doesn’t work, sorry. CAUTION: the engine can heat the water to scalding temperatures! The hot water is stored in the insulated 10-gallon tank located under the dinette seat just in front of the galley. It can also be heated electrically when shore power is available. The switch is located on the 110 panel. And it can heat while running the Hurricane furnace; see the section on the heater for instructions.

Ignition button

Oven and Grill control

Medium and Small burner controls

Large and Medium burner controls

Water tanks – We have two water tanks, 68 gals are held in each tank and both are located under the forward-berth. Selection valves are behind the back cushion in the middle of the dinette, starboard side. Only have one valve open at a time because when two valves are left open at the same time water flows from tank to tank and the system can suck air.

The deck fittings for each tank are located at the forward end of the deck just aft of the forward sail locker.

Fresh Water Wash Down - There is a fresh water wash down hose that is retractable behind a plastic flip up cover just above the starboard helm seat. Next to it is the control behind another plastic flip up cover. This is used to clean shoes and gear from shore excursions. Sand is very destructive to deck and the inside floor surfaces so please clean your shoes before coming into the cockpit area. - Anchor Salt Water Wash Down – We have a salt water wash down installed with a deck fitting and the coiled hose is in the forward anchor locker. The coiled hose is long enough to reach the stern so that you can use seawater to wash down the swim step after returning from shore. The switch (red toggle) for the pump is on the main panel and is marked as such. Please turn off the pump when not in use. The through hull valve feeding water to the pump is located under the sink in the forward head. Turn it on before you turn on the pump or you will burn out the pump! Bilge Pump - The bilge pump is normally activated by a float switch in the bilge sump and will turn on the bilge pump automatically should water be in the sump. If the float switch does not engage due to debris clogging the float mechanism then you can use the bilge pump manual override switch on the main panel. This switch is normally in the off position and will run continuously if switched on. 23. Tools and Spare Parts. There are toolboxes (general tools, grey with yellow handle and a long black box with sockets and socket wrenches, and a box of misc. screws/washers located under the navigation seat. There are more spare parts, (filters engine belts, replacement head pumps, and bilge and water pressure pumps and spare starter motor located in 8 dark blue plastic containers under the forward cabin

Behind Dinette – starboard side.

Port Tank Valve (closed as shown)

Fresh water hose

Fresh water pump in-line filter screen

Water Gauge

Bilge pump in-line filter screen

Starboard Tank Valve (open as shown)

Fresh water control

berth cushions. The bosun’s chair is located in the bottom cabinet of the navigation table with the flair kit and first aid kit. 24. What’s Unique about First Kiss: In many ways she is similar to other charter boats. Therefore, you are likely to find most of her systems will be familiar and easy to operate. There are a few things about her that are not ‘typical’. These are the things that may require special attention or where it may be best to deviate from customary operating procedures. And, some are listed here because we believe they will help you plan your charter.

Electrical System – First Kiss’s electrical system is a little different as compared to ‘normal’ sailboats. First, the start battery and bow thruster batteries are isolated from all other systems. This was done to prevent them from accidentally being used as a house battery. Also, instead of the usual 1, 2 or both battery switches, First Kiss has an electric isolator switch that separates the systems so the manual On/Off switches (located behind the aft end of the dinette) are left in the ‘On’ position (unless we are working on something). So, there is really nothing to do; just get on board and enjoy. Maxprop – There are two main advantages to First Kiss’s feathering prop; the first is speed. In light winds she will sail up to a knot faster with the prop feathered. The second advantage shows up when you are backing up under power. Fixed propellers are not very efficient in reverse so they require high engine RPM’s to get any real power. Because the Maxprop’s blades rotate 180 degrees when in reverse they are just as efficient in reverse as they are in forward. When you put First Kiss in reverse you will notice that she responds faster than a boat with a fixed prop. When sailing to feather the prop put the throttle control in reverse; this locks the shaft and feathers the blades. Bow Thruster – Allow for better handling in tight spaces. Electric Winches - The two primary and port side cabin top winch are two speed electric taking the heavy work out of sailing. Hydronic Heater – This system not only heats all the cabins, each with their own thermostat, but it also heats water so that showers are possible while anchored. House Battery – The house batteries capacity is much larger at 1350 AH than most cruising boats and has a dedicated 280-amp alternator to charge it when the engine is running. This system will provide power for several days with out recharging. It is necessary to start charging when the Link monitor displays the capacity at around 65%. If at anchor and you need to charge, run engine at 1200 rpm, it will take about 2 hours to bring batteries to 75%, at running speed of 2400 rpm it will take about 2 hours to bring batteries to 85%,

Equipment Manuals - For more information regarding the various equipment on the boat we have place manufacturer manuals in a blue canvas bag located in the upper cabinet at the navigation station. You will find information on the Raymarine instruments, and most if not all of the devices on the boat. Please keep these manuals in the bag as these are the only ones we have.

* * * We hope this information helps. Have a great time. Sheri and Jed Miller